Original Prusa i3 MK3 Review - Best 3D Printer of its class?
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- Опубліковано 1 тра 2018
- The Maker's Muse review of the Original Prusa MK3!
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You're the first person I've seen to have both an affiliate and non-affiliate link. That's pretty awesome.
y tho. You pay the same price, just that one more person benefits from your purchase.
@@vader3t3 some people see an affiliate link as partly being an ad cuz the creator benefits when people buy using that link. Which can be seen as a conflict of intrest in a review. By having a non affiliate link which he gets zero benefits from it, it makes it less biased in some peoples eyes.
Agree - makes me want to reward the affiliate link because he's so transparent. GJ Angus.
he's rich
@@jakesnack6778 ...
You should make a video on what printers are the best in their respective domains (ex. best cheap printer, best high end printer, best overall/value printer etc.)
I appreciate the honesty of your review. Keep up the good work. Really, honesty does pay.
As someone considering purchasing this printer, I definitely appreciate this review. I've heard little but raves elsewhere. Hearing some negatives from a source I trust has helped me find in favor of the machine, believe it or not.
Thank you.
bmobert I totally get what you mean here. It also sets your expectations appropriately. If you print the 3D Benchy off the supplied SD card, you will notice that the bow of the boat (which prints facing towards the fan) prints rather better than the bow, which also overhangs, to a lesser extent, away from the fan. I think further improvements may be possible with the part cooling fan duct - or even having different ducts which you swap-on for different prints. I do wonder whether it’s possible to have a one-design-fits-all approach. But you also have to know which is best to use and that only comes with experimentation and experience.
Read my review in the comments.
bmobert but you see it comes with free gummy bears tho
You're a smart guy! This is the 4th review I've viewed on this printer and yours is better at informing me. Well done.
Thanks for the honest review. I'm tired of reviews that fail to point out any negative points to a product as if it were perfect. My mk2 printer has given me so much grief and some of the problems should have been pointed out by reviewers as they were fundimental design flaws.
Just finished building mine ...piece of cake no issues anywhere ...mesh bed level wow..first print was like I actually had been a 3D printer for years !, truth is it was my first ever print. Long after you have forgotten how much it cost you will remember the Value of the Prusa back up ...simply amazing. You could spend all the hours fixing a machine or all those hours learning fusion instead so you can design and print your own stuff , the choice is yours. Happy printing and a great channel you have. Thank you.
I probably watched this review 5 times. I have been agonizing over what printer fits my needs best and was very close to getting a refurbished Lulzbot Mini, but after seeing that it took 3 mm filament, is even louder than the Prusa i3 mk2, and doesn't take an SD card, I had to go with the Prusa. The new build plate looks like it will be a major help for me as I'll be printing small items and tokens for tabletop gaming. Made sure to use the affiliate link.
Your channel is by far my favorite as you are very critical and honest with your reviews. Really enjoy the very technical nature of it instead of wishy-washy comments and very dubious testing circumstances on other channels. Tom and Joel are pretty awesome, too. The fact that the community has really adopted your models as the test methods to use is a pretty clear indicator of your knowledge and status in the community. Well done!
Sorry to report, I cancelled my mk3 order. They keep pushing the shipping table even further back, and reading the forums, people wait anywhere from 1 month to 6 months to get an order so the shipping table seems meaningless. On top of that, the big extrusion issue seems to be getting worse and worse and Prusa has no idea why it's happening. It's pretty clear that this printer needed at least another year of development and production planning before release. Pretty sad about it, but I'm ordering a Makergear M3ID, which is 3300 bucks, but it'll do whatever the hell I want, will be extremely reliable with killer support, and I don't have to wait months for it.
Spot on review and thanks for the ideas on what to do to my mk3.
The most valuable mk3 video I’ve seen today. Great job ✌🏽👍😜
Hi, I received my MK3 the 9th of April. Ordered it 16th of January. Today i have update my Y-ax to MGN12H linear slider, double block left and single block right. The sliders are 310 mm long it works perfect. I love the results it gives me.
Build mine in 6 hours, still need to do calibration and first print.
Real easy guide to follow, my background is quality management and instructions like these are what you can give people that have no technical background. Big thumps up
And if prusa wouldn't do the engineering and testing all the clones wouldn't have this stuff. I don't see new things on them till some "premium manufacturers" else does it first
Gummy bear rationing. Probably the best kit building advice ever! ;)
I reached the end of the build and had loads left BUT i did go like stink on the build and got it done in an afternoon
I didn't think I liked gummy bears much until I had to ration them. Now I think they're the most delicious candy ever created.
Well, I saw this review AFTER buying my MK3 and I concur with what I've heard. Note that this is my very first 3D printer, I had ZERO experience with them before, and I ordered the kit and assembled it myself. I'm a software guy and I'm certainly not the *handy* type. What I do have is an ability to pay attention to detail, patience to follow every step, and I know how to RTFM. I'm happy to report that despite the excruciatingly complex extruder assembly, I nailed it on the first try, from assembly to self-check to calibration to successful first print. I did run the first layer calibration like 8 times until I was sure it looked good, that was not so obvious. So even if you're a complete newbie, you *can* build this if you take your time and read everything carefully.
I am also seeing some web-like stringing on small figurines (I'm mostly printing D&D minis right now) but I have not experimented yet with the retraction settings, I'm just using the defaults for now. The auto-leveling of the bed is so easy. I did not realize how good I had it until I saw on UA-cam videos how many printers require manual leveling. OMG, I never want to do that. Also, having seen people fight with scrapers to remove models from beds, the removable metal sheet is AMAZING. I actually had an issue with a small figurine that did not stick enough and started slipping twice on the bed, causing a failed print, but I easily fixed it by including a brim. problem solved. Wi-Fi would be great, I'll definitely have to upgrade mine with that RP0 kit.
I just discovered your channel today and I love the videos, keep up the great work!
I have DaVinci 2.0 and it runs a calibration (10min) and then I have 3 nobs to level it and run it again. It has glass bed so I have to scrape it off and that usually messes bed leveling. So now own after print I have to calibrate and check if bed is alright. So I can’t wait to have this one
I am happy to use the affiliate link today because I support your unbiased reviews and great overall content!
Thanks again Angus. Very detailed review. :-)
The Prusa machines are incredible work horses and with work horses it does what it is good at. Though when you need a 3d printer to just work without messing around with it so much it is amazing. My college uses 3 of them and were able to go from 3 staff for 6 printers who were regularly fixing problems with the 3d printers in the free student work space to 1 staff for 6 printers because of how reliable they are. For the college that is a very big plus side for running a free program.
It is like buying a truck instead of an expensive sports car or a cheap bottom of the market car that you have to constantly work on.
Thanks for a thoughtful review Angus!
My simple MK2 cooling fan does a better job than my MK3 does! The cooling fan duct is the issue with poor overhangs. The duct looks good but there's far too much cooling from the front. I used my 3D pen to add a small barrier to the front section and my prints improved by at least 50%. Still a lot of room for improvement though.
Awesome to see my Egg making another video. Made me giggle. Have to say Ive had three fully assembled printers now and the Prusa is the only one that actually worked out of the box and prints constantly well. I love, it, well worth the money IMHO. You don’t have to print mod after mod after mod to make it work. I am also confident leaving to print over night whilst we sleep.....oh and we cant here it in the next room which is a massive bonus. I do however agree with some of the points you have made. WiFi for example would have mad a big difference to many. Another great video, thank you Angus 🖖🏼
The mk3 kit I ordered should be coming in tomorrow. Hopefully I can start getting it together once it shows up.
I'm happy with mine, mainly due to the bed and auto level feature, which is much better than my Cocoon Create V2. Great review Angus!
Great honest review!
I was sold almost completely by the level of excitement in your voice 😜
Great review including your honest opinions and comparisons. I agree that the $5 WIFI Raspberry PI should be included or offered as a factory add-on. It intimidates folks who are not electronically inclined but would like the feature. While every printer has its warts, the Prusa line continues to set the standard for overall quality, usability and consistency including groundbreaking innovations out of the box. It definitely is the "go to" everyday general purpose printer. You do not see a lot of used ones for sale except when folks are looking to upgrade to their next generation Prusa model. What's missing in these reviews which I'd like to see is a response from the printer manufacturer to the issues raised during the review showing fixes, improvements or advice.
I think that WiFi may cause even more production issues. (RPi Zero W is $10 btw)
Aaron Beckman When did the up the price? I used to grab a Zero W almost every time I went to MicroCenter for $5.
The zero w is $10, the regular zero without wireless is $5.
I honestly think it would be a waste of money for Prusa as I don't think the majority of people are willing to setup the Pi Zero W. You know its pretty simple, I know its pretty simple. But I guarantee you hand it to the average Joe consumer and they look at it as WTF. What would have been nice is a designed electronics cage with a swivel door from the factory so I didn't need to print a new one just to install the pi zero.
I sit corrected - it is $10 at Microcenter - was just there yesterday. You point about the average Joe is a good one - the KISS principal should apply. But maybe a "professional package" option that includes WIFI and a touchscreen (I'm not very good with the rotary encoder especially going from printer to printer where the menus vary).
Andrew Ruffolo I wasn't saying the Pi Zero W isn't $10 now, but it doesn't negate the fact that I have purchased 4 Pi Zero W's at MicroCenter for $5 in the past. I was just curious when the price change happened.
Great review. Has the past 2 years helped iron out the kinks and provide noticeable improvement on this model?
I’ve been running a mk3 for a few weeks. I think the whispy stringing is due to the fact Slic3r PE enables Z-hop by default on the stock profiles. You can obviously switch it off, but then you risk more print collisions. For me the lack of wi-fi is a non-issue, as I’ve rigged up Octo-pi with an external Raspberry Pi. I’ve read some comments online suggesting the internal Raspberry Pi is not the best option - some people have been having issues with the smaller form factor Zero.
My kit shipped without the textured PEI bed, although the PEI spring-steel bed is working quite nicely. Still no word on when the textured bed will become available. I would like to upgrade to this when it becomes available - I’ve had a few tall/thin parts warp off the bed, although re-printing with the supplied glue-stick did the trick.
I *love* being able to remove parts so easily.
Only down-sides I’ve experienced is that sometimes certain filament has been jamming on unloading and I also agree that the extruder was pretty difficult to assemble. Also, sometimes filament leaks out of the nozzle during the bed levelling process, which can result in a messy nozzle right at the start of the print. I probably need to tweak the gcode or use a lower temperature for the first layer.
Overall, it’s a completely different world to my previous Anet A8, which has now been retired before it burns the house down (I did most of the safety upgrades too). I really enjoyed the build, a lot more than the A8 build, partly because I was more confident assembling 3D printers, but also the instructions were far, far better and contained no mistakes.
Thanks for the excellent and considered review Angus. Personally I would highly recommend this printer, too.
P.S. My kit shipped with an improved double-sided injection moulded spool holder. Ultimately I want to get the spool off the top of the printer when I sort out an enclosure.
textured bed has been available one e'shop already but they sell out in minutes.
How do you like Octo-Pi. It's on my bucket list of things to set up for my Mk3. I have a Pi3 ready to go. I just need to plug it into the USB port.
I typically preheat my bed and let the filament ooze. When it stops I clean the nozzle and start my print. It's an added step, but my nozzle is still very clean after 100's of hours of printing. When I don't preheat I simply wait until the nozzle reaches temp and then use a toothbrush to clean the ooze as the head comes down. Either method works very well for me.
Tell me about your Octo-Pi setup and experience!
Just a FYI to people reading a 3 year old review, I assembled the MK3s+ (upgrades adfded over the past couple years) and the extruder was not hard to assemble at all.
@@chadcoady9025 it's true - I've upgraded my printer to the mk3s and the extruder assembly was much easier and more straightforward.
I’m watching this even though I already ordered one
I got my MK3 kit last week and been printing ever since I finished building it. You're lucky getting a powder coated PEI sheet. I got a smooth PEI sheet. Can't wait till I can order an additional print sheet. I have't had any issues yet with mine and already looking at getting another one.
Jason Chambers 100% of what you said, also discussing getting a second MK3.
Only thing I wish is that we would just be getting sent the powder coated bed rather then having to order yet another part
Why do you guys care so much about the powder coated sheet? Loving my mk3 as well.
Terb a co-worker of mine happens to have one, and I have been able to use both (his and mine, with the smooth) and it just works better and gives it a much nicer finish (the side in contact with the sheet) honestly both are fine but the powder coated is better
get 5 anet a8's.
Love your channel man!
orderd mine as a kit (with the powder coated spring sheet) ^^ for what I have seen this is going to be a very long wait untill its here :D
Also nice review, started watching and like the style of vids you make!
Hi Angus. For the Z-axis ripple problem (7:00), retry the printing but after the first couple of layers shut down the heated bed.
Thank you for being honest and not being scared of saying the truth or sugar coating it.
also i wish people didn't use fancy silky or special filament on reviews. those are VERY good at hiding flaws. white green or lighter normal filaments show flaws very well in my experience.
like marble sometimes black and silk filaments hide defects a lot. while white is pretty much a nightmare :P
I Love the precision of my Mk3. I just received my fully assembled on 04/13/18. They are assembling so fast that the X carriage belt tensioner bolt was completely loose and the PINDA probe was set too high. Strangely it worked great for 4 days and then crashed. I tightened the bolt, then did a firmware re flash and lowered the PINDA probe to the correct spacing and it's been running great since!!!!! Again its precision is awesome. My other printer is a Monoprice Select Mini V2. Good starting printer with decent quality. Just not as accurate.
Hey Angus - came across this just before I ordered my Mk3 - thanks for the link, make sure they credit you for the sale - Steve
thanks! enjoy your machine :D
Thanks for sharing your gripes with this! I've seen so much glowing praise for the MK3 while the Prusa forum was full of "WORLD ON FIRE. EVERYTHING WRONG. HELP." threads on a lot of the teething troubles the printer had.
A removable build plate, power loss resume, and a filament sensor are game-changing, but reviews like this might help some people avoid early adopter syndrome.
I couldn't print with TPU no matter how slow I set the print speed. It kept spilling out the side of the extruder. Never thought my extruder might be too tight. Thanks for mentioning that, I'll definitely try that and see if it helps.
Great video Angus! Have you printed and installed the updated X-Motor Holder and X-Carriage Backplate yet? I've printed them out for my MK3 but haven't installed them. Wondering if there is any improvement in print quality if at all.
Angus ,The texture you mention at 7:00 it is a micro stepping ,i am kind of sure ,Thank you for the great UA-cam channel ,i am a big fan .
Thanks for the review! I've watched already a few of them, and ordered my MK3 kit 2 weeks ago :-)
Wifi: It's rather easy to add a Raspberry Pi Zero W onto the back of the EINSY board (but I would recommend using an adapted electronic case from Thingiverse: the one with the back door for the Pi Zero W), but if you're going to use video for monitoring or timelapsing, the Zero W quickly comes to ist limits. I will take a Raspberry Pi 3 with OctoPrint, using the same cable connection to the EINSY board and the Pi cam. This should give me the best of both worlds: an integrated Raspberry Pi, but with enough power to do what I want…
In 3 days I will visit the Vienna Maker Fair, and maybe have a chance to meet Josef Prusa himself there :-)
I've really liked the machine I got. I have had two major failures since in four months though. The first failure the wires to the print bed heater were damaged when the insulation was stripped. The wire broke at the solder junction in spite of the strain relief. The second issue I have not fully debugged. The print cooling fan failed and it's looking like the electronics are to blame. My power supply is now singing to me after it gets warmed up. It feels like delivery promises caused them to rush it too much.
Well you do a review of the prusa mini and compare it to the prusa mk i3
I print a lot of flexible filament on my MK3. Here is what I've done. I dry out the filament before use (it gets rid of the stringing you see on the flexible filaments, seriously try it, its night and day). I raise the z-height adjust by 100 microns. For Ninjaflex, I slow down the printer to 60-70% manually on the machine, not in the slicer. For Cheetah, I print at full speed. That stuff really is amazing and has now been my go-to flexible filament. I print a lot of drone parts for a local guy and this has made me experiment a lot with the flexible. I don't know if Ninjatek filament is available by you, if it is, try the Cheetah!
The random skiping stepper steps "layer shifts" seem to have gone away with the many firmware updates since Feb 2018 when I got mine, but the hot end design still likes to jam when printing in PLA on complex designs that have a lot of retractions. The old MK2 never gave me a filament jam.
I just realized that you create review and Education videos Make Anything makes projects and 3D printing nerd makes tutorials and cool prints.
I do projects and tutorials too ;)
I am looking to buy this kit now. I can't decide between the orange and black or all black...hmmm. This would be my first 3d printer and it just seems so awesome.
There is one thing that you forgot to mention about the MK3 is that alot of people are getting plagued with extrusion issues due to either firmware or something with the drivers. I hope they iron those out in the future and make it so I can get the MK3 upgrade kit so I can have a MK3 like I wanted without all of the extrusion issues alot of people are having.
Great review!! It makes me feel better about some of the issues that I've been having while trying to print, (like the stripes on the torture egg). I definitely love it but, (and I hate to say this but) I tend to get better looking prints from my $200 Monoprice Select Mini V2 right now... :-(. Don't get me wrong, the prints are acceptable and again I definitely love my Prusa MK3 but hopefully Josef and his team will get all the bugs worked out soon!! Love your videos man, keep up the great work!!! :)
I also get better prints from my Monoprice Select Mini V2 still.
Angus! if you sent this out on the 16th April, I would've used your affiliate link. doh! already ordered, sorry mate. thanks for the honest review though, I hope they just iron out these little bugs. I saw on their shipping page that so far they've shipped 70,000 of these.. so there's a lot of people waiting for the necessary refinements.
Don't sweat it!
Very happy with mine. Bought the kit and built it over an weekend including gummy bear pause. The only problem I have with it is that the filament cover not fitting right. It prints ok so it is not a big issue. Have to tear down the extruder someday to look at it. :)
Can you make a video on how to do all the electronics on the releaux triangle bearing? I am completely lost there.
Nice video!
You should make another video where you compare the print quality on different printers and show them side by side. I have the Wanhao Duplicator I3+ and would like to see how its print quality compares to other printers like the Prusa mk3 :)
I have the Wanhao i3 (not the plus) and ordered a MK3 though, I'm really close to canceling and just buying the Buildtak removable plate system. really debating because I'd love to have automatic bed leveling as well. Mighty worried about the artifacting he got on straight walls. According to the time table my block is going to start shipping April 30th (yes I know the 30th is over with and its May 3rd) so I'm really close to a ship date.
AcidicSights yeah if I would want a Prusa I would buy the mk2 instead 😉
I wish we had more print area! I just got an anycubic i3 mega anyway ;3 the 21cmx21cmx20.5cm area makes me a bit sad but oh well!
Great video! Please review the Creality 10S-Pro and compare it to the Prusa i3 MK3
After using the flex bed surface on the MK3, I'm ruined for my other printers with non-removable beds!!
Really like your honest videos and opinion. Would you recommend it still today? Lets say for a experienced Ender 3 Pro user (with tons of mods)?
Thanks for the great presentations. I would like to print Nylon and PC, sometimes ABS mechanical parts. I would need to use dissolvable support material to get complex parts. I have been using Taz5 single extrusion for my prints so far. Which dual extrusion printer would you suggest. I would stay under $2000. Thanks,
Angus,
I'm looking to purchase a printer for minis, taking the appropriate steps (IE slightly smaller nozzle, layer heights ect), would this machine be a good fit?
Thanks for the review, always looking forward to the next video!
Best,
Jake
Interesting, I'm not getting any of the artefacting you mentioned on my MK3, the sides are silky smooth. However I'd say mine is quite noisy on the Y axis movements.
Hi Angus, do you recommend the Cetus MK2? How does the print quality compare to the Prusa MK3? Thanks.
Your videos are so wonderful...and so informative...please tell me...is there a way to create a moon with craters in Meshmixer that can be 3D printed?
@Maker's Muse Im thinking of buying my first 3d printer and your video's influenced me a lot. Would you recoment the creality 10s or this printer? Thanks in advance Fekke
Would it be conducive to do a video say, 6 months after release of machines to print the same item to see how through firmware the models have improved
Omg it's here!!!!!
Question Angus! -- What is the difference between the smooth spring steel PEI sheet that we're all getting, vs the powder coated version you've got?? Is powder coated (a) easier to remove prints from? (b) harder for prints to stick to? (c) leave a rough finish on the under side of the bottom layer?
Both work well but I prefer the texture, shame it's proving difficult to manufacture for Prusa!
I have the smooth sticker PEI sheet and it works very well. The main difference is in the surface texture. The textured sheet will grab parts better no doubt, but it leaves a texture, which I actually find very pleasing. All the Mk3 parts are printed on the textured sheets and they are lovely and feel awesome. You can see the texture on Angus' models he showcases in this video. The smooth sheet on the other hand being smooth will not grab parts as effectively and will leave a glass smooth finish on parts printed directly onto the sheet (no rafts).
Tips: Be sure to clean the PEI sheets very well using 90+ Iso Alcohol. Otherwise parts may not stick well. After every 100 hours of prints clean the PEI sheet with Acetone. This is all spelled out in the docs, forums and start-up videos produced by PRUSA.
Thus far I'm very happy with the smooth sheet. When I take PRUSA up on the compensation offer I'm going to get a textured PEI, but also another smooth one. The sheets are consumables.
WillieRants thanks Willie
Hi Angus, You undoubtably have been asked this question many times before. What 3D printer should I buy? I have never used a 3D printer before, I dont have have CAD software or Slicer.
Finance will prevent me from upgrading multiple times so I would like to get it right first time within reason irrespective of cost. I tend to do most of my work on reasonably high end Mac's. I guess what I am asking is what should my total workflow be? CAD software, Slicer Software and Printer, I probably dont need to go above a print volume of much more than 180x180x180mm. Output quality, ease of use (as I am a beginner) and reliability are the priorities with speed and multiple materials being much further down the list.
I have watched a number of your videos but the number of new terms is bewildering.
The "wobbly artifact" in the Easter Egg is a Slic3r issue. I printed the egg using Slic3r and also Simplify3D. The wobble only came up with the Slic3r model. I have not attempted to understand the difference between the slicer to explain why this is.
Also, for the plastic I use, the Z-hop in Slic3r is WAY too high - especially for PET-G. Increasing retraction distance (again especially with PET-G) and reducing Z-hop to 0.06mm (or lower) produces a much nicer print.
Man I need to write this shit down. Hold on, let me grab a pen... :P
Sir Jon, fuck it, why aren't you making videos? Help us out man!
Excuse the language it was for effect not crudeness or lewdness.
This is the first video i coment from you, but i think today is the day (like you with the MK3)
I see this video and remember the video from the JGAurora a5, and i said.... ok, i´m happy with my choice.
Prusa is Prusa (like Honda is Honda), but for the price... today maybe don´t works.... The A5 have issues, the 3D printer lowcost have problems, but we pay half price (or less)... I choice the JGAurora a5, by the way
I say this because i like your atention warning to Prusa and all the other producers: We need a step up with 3D printers.
great video, like always
PD: sorry about my english...
Would you recommend this printer as an upgrade from a flash forge finder? if so, would you recommend the assembled or kit version. This would be my second 3D printer. Great review BTW!
Id like to know also since i am in the same situation
honestly i like the noise... i think the whirring an humming would be neat amirite?
Waiting for Anycubic Photon test! Phuleeeeeeze!!!!! :)
I've got an early(ish) Mk3 Kit. I've been running mine since early Feb 2018. I was using a raspberry pi with wifi but now I've got it on ethernet. it is so much faster to respond and more reliable. I had some stringing on PETG. that was cured by using a faster retract and disable the z hop. PLA and ABS have been fine.
One thing that DOES annoy me is that even after 6 months, we still cannot buy a replacement steel print sheet (not even a blank or a smooth one).
I thought that the whole idea of swappable sheets was to have more than one! So how about it Josef??
what cad software is used for these printers to draw 3d models?
On my printer (Anycubic I3 MEGA) I have stringing with Simplify3D, but not with Cura. So, software matters too.
Where can I get the "prusa mint" PLA you mentioned in the video? The one you made the maker coin with. Thanks!
I agree except for the touchscreen.
Regarding what might be causing the texture (sans the normal ghosting, blah blah blah): The 50mm blowers have a strange resonance that I've found can produce that EXACT texture (ever so slight, but perfectly aligned ripple).
I must have stripped and rebuilt my Wanhao three times (checked rod accuracy/curvature, check bearing wear, check lubrication, check dimensional accuracy of the frame, etc, etc, etc) before I switched extruder fans (purely by coincidence, as the blower was on a desk just out of reach, but a couple of 40mm standard fans where next to me, me = lazy...) and finally got it to disappear. The blower wasn't by any means off balance (certainly not audibly), so my guess is it's just an intrinsic part of blower design.
Shane Gadsby I actually was thinking about this today. I was wondering if gyroscopic precession is more of an issue with the blowers.
Blowers are typically mounted further from the center of mass, and their attachment points are not as sturdy as the ones for the 40 mm fans.
I was actually thinking about trying to move the fans off my hot end and use tubing with a high pressure air source to see if that improved matters. It would also allow me to use more powerful fans.
That's a great idea, I hadn't even though of that! I was just resigning myself to having to buy a 40mm Noctua (sick of the cheapy ones getting loud after a month or two), but a bit of tubing would be a lot quicker and cheaper!
It seems unlikely to me that gyroscopic precession could cause any large movement in this case. In order for it to have any great effect it'd need to have considerable moment of inertia. The mass of the moving part of the blower that's say 60% out from the hub is just a few grams, even if it spins at fairly high rates, the forces would be miniscule. You'd need to spin it at ridiculous RPMs to get any noticable effects (RPMs that'd disintegrate the fan on the spot).
Florian Bösch I completely agree, except switching from a blower, to a fan, and back removed, then put back, the ringing...
Florian Bösch it doesn't need to weigh much, just enough to cause a vibration. This could easily occur with how flexible the mounts are for the blowers. The gyroscopic effects of the fan combined with the flexible mount could easily cause or exacerbate ringing or artifacting in the print.
Even a 40mm fan has enough mass to mess up a print. I accidentally broke one of the blades of the hotend cooling fan while a print was going, and the vibration of the fan absolutely destroyed my print from that point forward.
I received my MK3 last weekend! I love it. But I struggle with the UI of Slic3r. Do you have a good Simplify3D profile for it? Especially for PETG.
If you don't need all the settings give PrusaControl a try, very simple interface but lacks settings yet still produced great prints 90% of the time on my dilapidated MK2.
IgnoreMyChan go to the original Prusa Facebook page and check those profiles. I use them and are fantastic
I think I posted a Simplify3D profile for PETG on the Prusa Forum a while back. Works perfectly for eSun PETG.
Chandler Voit, I don't have facebook. Apparently that is mandatory to view those posts.
Jonathan Kayne do you have a link or thread ID? Thanks in advance!
Hi Angus
did it come to you that the issue with lattice torture test maybe due to your printing parameters?
I own a Lulzbot Taz 4. It doesn't have any of the modern features (like auto bed leveling) and I've been thinking about buying a new printer. I was looking at the MK3 but am going to hold off (made this decision before your video). WRT your list, here are my thoughts:
* WiFi. This isn't important to me, I run w/a PC tethered to my Taz 4, and I run Simplify3D or Cura. If I wished to run untethered, I'd buy a Raspberry Pi and run Octoprint, so WiFi (for me) isn't very important.
* V rollers for Y-axis. Probably, I wonder how much it would add to the cost.
* Linear rails for X-Axis. Yes! If this were an optional upgrade, I'd order it with this option.
* Color touch screen. This isn't important to me, mostly because I spend most of my time in S3D or Cura. Not only are graphic touch screens more expensive, but the cost to design and develop the interface is order of magnitudes more $$$ to develop. My vote would be to leave the LCD as-is.
* Easier printing with flexible filaments. YES! I wish there was an option to order one w/a print head specifically for flexibles, like a flexion.
Other thoughts:
* I wish the print head was easily swapable (kinda like the Taz4/5/6), and there were different print heads - one for PLA and ABS, one for flexables, one for abrasive materials, etc...)
* I really like the option to either buy one fully assembled, or buy one in kit form and save some money. I hope they continue to do this for future models.
I just bought a MK3, but funny thing is I was between the MK3 and Cetus. If the Cetus guys get the features of the MK3 on there printers I'd totally give them a try.
wilson mura it doesn’t have a heated bed, right? If the Cetus people added a heated bed, I would totally buy that machine (I’m good right now though...)
It's a little more than that say if you where compering it to a MK2 yeah sure just a heated bed But with the MK3 it's more: filament detection, flex plate, bondtech, the new probe. Plus were I live customs is a pain so Cetus using there own hot ends it a big turn off, the more open and easier the parts are to get the better for me.
Just checked they don't ship to where I live so yeaaaah no Cetus for me.
wilson mura :(
Oh you and me both, but they don't so I went with the Mk3.
Hey! I want to get into 3D printing and I’ve never done anything like it, I’m completely new to this but this printer really caught my attention. Any suggestions? Is this good for beginners? Or Should I start with another printer first
If you used Slic3r prusa edition, the mk3 profile uses less agressive retraction settings compared to the Prusa Control slicer which achieves much better results in regards to webbing/stringing. If you tune the Slic3r mk3 profile to similar settings, the results improve noticably. I opened a github ticket commenting this a couple weeks ago, as of yet no reaction.
Github issue: github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r-settings/issues/32
Hey Angus! I have a Wanhao i3 V2 and the stepper motor next to the extruder always keeps on overheating! Any suggestions? Lowering the voltage didn't work. Also, I am early! :D
Hi Angus, F.Y.I my Prusa I3 MK3 prints Ninjaflex filimant fine as stock, the only mod I did was to V the PTFE tube to meet the Bondteck Gears. Cant wait to see what Prusa have for a MK4, Colour touch screen and WIFI???? :-)
Try the I3 Mega from Anycubic found it to be quite good.
Also, could the artifact-ing on your Easter Egg be due to a larg mass set in motion and swaying back and forth on your frame?
Ghosting...also.
How does a mass on the frame..a MOVING mass.....effect ghosting?
Your standards are pretty high for those lattusssss (spelling mistake) cubes. I think it did a decent job on it.
Could the patterns in the sides being caused by vibrations from having the spool on the frame?
I’d like to see a Prusa delta printer with a focus on high speed printing.
There seems to have been a lot less testing and quality control with the mk3. Slapped on some "upgrades" and tada, new model! My mk2s is looking like a more solid and less finicky machine.
Well good review...my take away is that the only real "wow" is the build plate/spring steel PEI coating. You have some sort of ghosting going on and it's failing your challenging prints. I would really like to see him offer a Bowden setup and lighten that enormous/heavy print head. Still...those printers have quiet a reputation and I would still like to try one out!
I use mine 24/7 and while I agree that the first killer feature is the removable build plate, I also love how quiet it runs, even on normal mode. I also love the filament sensor which makes it so much easier to change filaments.The other features are just about reliability which is also nice when printing a lot.
Ghosting can be reduced a lot by moving to an external spool holder and removing the damper feet.
Hi there! I'm looking at picking up a Prusa Mk3S soon. Do you think that it might be able to print using nylon filament (website says it can), and can you do some testing with nylon for higher strength prints? Thanks.
4:35 “Gummy Bear rationing”
Mine came with gummy dinosaurs, and I am happy with my variant, but is there anything I should watch out for? How different will the build process be? ;P
With the new bate firmware the ghosting is much improved / non existing
When are you doing a review on prusa mini :(
Hello I have subscribed to your channel. I have an engineering background and in the market for a 3D printer to do some projects that you have shown. Can you recommend a couple of model printers? And where I can reading about this technology? Thanks in advance
What is the speckled matte filament used on the thumbnail? I've been trying to find this all over for my printer!
If you haven't found it after 2 years it's one of prusaments filaments
Angus, do you still recommend Cetus 3D?
When i get the money im so buying one myself, i love my Anet A8 but i want something quiet that i can run over night in my room!
dvanw6 also with a smaller fire hazard 😀
Ive actually fixed my Anet a8 up enough that it aint a huge fire hazard any more
dvanw6 have you thought of replacing those linear ball bearing to plastic bearings? I did it and its almost silent.
for quietness, you can try Drylin Igus bearings or clones, add suspension springs to the base of the printer, substitute stock fan with Noctua, or just simply install Octoprint and relocate your A8 to a quiet place in your house that you can't hear the noise.
Re thermal protection you can Install Marlin firmware for functions such as thermal runaway etc, as well as soldering some cables, shielding some critical junctions or upgrade PSU. Hope it helps ;)
3D experts. What printer is best for "production" with this build volume?
Sorry to ask, but of all of the dual extruder prinetrs... Which would you recomend?