You say the vase is too weak, but remember there's going to be a dirt filling. You only need to worry about tensile strengths of the material for containing that dirt, which will far exceed what's needed to work.
Thanks man! Yeah it was lots of fun experimentation. Keen to see how other people take it and create their own things. There's already talk of hydroponic /aquaponics filters and such in the comments ;)
Jack Lee-Scott but nobody pronounces island correctly Where the fuck did the silent "s" come from? "S"s are not silent, it's not written "iland". The official pronunciation is wrong
Hey there! Before you embarrass yourself by commenting on my pronunciation of 'vase' keep in mind I am Australian, not American. We follow UK rules for the most part. Still too complicated? Watch this great video to learn more. ua-cam.com/video/aRb8iOtDTZ0/v-deo.html 'mind blown'. Have a great day mate.
Why would you want to "sound" American? Canadians are looked at in a much better light than Americans by about 99% of the world. Nothing against Americans, they are generally great people, just saying...
Agreed Joel, the only idiot people is you: Infires Nation's ARMY. And people like you're distrubing for me and make me hope one day all idiot human like you will be gone from this Earth.
Big thumb's up for being visually considerate of your viewers, and showing them exactly what you're talking about. Show and Tell, the oldest and best way. Bravo.
Seems like Vase Mode is perfect for making a positive for mold making. If you used it for helmets, you could then make a rubber mold of it and make fiberglass shells. I might have to try that as soon as I get my larger printer running.
Thanks Angus! I'm in the process of making a cosmetic leg cover for my Wife's prosthetic leg and this will save be BOAT LOADS of time in test prints while we try and nail down the final shape! Love the experiments! Id like to suggest one, I noticed that when I print some models the cooler that I have on my printer blows air in such a way to whistle (similar to blowing over the top of a bottle). I always wondered if a model could be designed to play a tune while it printed. It most likely would look like a bunch of tubes in the end, but it would make for a fun experiment. Love the Videos! Thanks again!
Neat! That 2mm nozzle is crazy! I've been using vase mode to make transparent optical parts like light diffusers (fancy lampshades for my lightsabers) to prevent the 'zippers' you normally get that become really obvious when back-lit. I'm even learning to use the layer lines as "microlenses" to pull some _very_ interesting tricks. Practically holographic.
Apparently the FT-5 is good at those large-nozzle vase prints. It has pretty beefy motors, but I haven't done much with the hotend yet. Maybe I'll try that iceberg-looking model with translucent green!
Yup I know a site where you can buy vase mode optimized RC airplane plans ;) Supposed to run in vase mode with PLA. They say that are still very strong. Been wanting to check it out but I don't have the money to spend on a new set of RC electronics.
well I haven't had much time to delve into it yet but they seem to also be using a 3D support structure. Very similar to how balsa models are made, a balsa wood structure with a film over it.
Yes, you have to have internal support for a wing. The interesting part is how the Gcode pathing allows the printer to to do a vase-path while still printing internal supports. I have a Prusa i3 MK2 and they now come with a Spitfire in about 25 Gcode files that you can print. I printed one part (of 4) for the left wing to see how it would come out. It's very nice actually and I learned a lot just watching the pathing the machine took.
Dude Angus Come on man give us the blue iceybergy thing we are waiting for it i am waiting for more than 2 month for it since the first time KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK MAN. you are awesome
SUPERB video, thanks!! I use Cura as my slicer, just because it is the first one I found for my Anet A8. I LOVE "vase" mode. It is in quotes because Cura calls it "Spiralise Outer Contour". What I love doing with it is simple rectangles, with no top - as drawer or parts organizers. By printing fairly wide - 0.4 or 0.5, it is sufficiently strong.
All good stuff, thank you. but when your stuff gets so light don't overlook weighting it down. Just a chunk of metal or sand or something in the bottom to keep it heavy is somewhat common in manufacturing if you're going to make a pen and pencil cup you kind of need to weigh it down
This is awesome. I made a pencil holder and I wanted to do it in vase mode but because of the angles I thought it would fail. But now I need to try it because I bet it would do something similar to that cone! Thanks for the ideas
Thanks for the video!! I am trying to make quick prototypes for a vase so this is exactly what I needed :) Also, I think the fact that you combine the explanation with your experiments is really engaging, it looks like you really enjoy doing this and that good energy gets transferred! I got also shocked with the thick nozzle, I´m totally looking into that. Thanks, this made my day!
No you can't print 2mm with 1.75mm filament the person in the video is using a Ultimaker and that runs 3mm filament. There is a 1.2mm nozzle for the E3d volcano that you can use with 1.75mm filament
Oh ok, thx 4 the answer. My printer is a cheap aliexpress kit so I cant really get good details. The acrilic not-so-rigid frame and the feeding mechanism make it useless in the tiny details when printing. Lets not talk about the endstop switches, secured with 1 bolt so they can rotate a little bit each time the printer homes itself. However printing faster with a wider nozzle sounds so nice. If I cant get the details at least I can print big stuff. I was going to replace the extruder assembly anyway so I may get a volcano. Extra question: I am going to change the extruder and the direct drive mechanism, making it 3mm is worth it? Just focusing in printing faster with a huge nozzle
The trick with large diameter nozzles is you have to melt and cool a LOT more plastic than usual - so your heating and cooling must be really powerful. Usually, you have to run very slow so it can keep up which somewhat defeats the purpose. I would use your current machine to start printing parts and upgrades for itself or even an entirely new printer :) It'll improve itself over time.
Go the 'Gong! My mother's home town (to say nothing of everyone's favourite Aunty). Thanks for a great channel with some excellent resources for 3D printer learny goodness.
Not really as the conditions to actually make it degrade are specific. The environment needs to be very hot and needs certain organic compost. So it will be fine for using it as your typical vase or pot.
This was super cool, very insightful to see experiment videos like this. Helps me understand what my printer should be capable of. Awesome content, keep it up!
Thank you so much for posting this! I have zits (perfect name) ever since I started experimenting with vase mode. Glad I found this, I thought I tried everything - but not obviously everything.
I'd like to give it a go with this pot, I printed 12 pointed tree topper star using vase mode for each point using my volcano nozzle with a .6mm nozzle, but intentionally overextruding to reach .9mm wall thickness, and was able to get super clean finishes. Each point printed quickly and was very strong and very smooth. I think that's roughly the sweet spot because .9mm walls are pretty strong -- I might be able to force it to get to 1.2mm walls using the same nozzle as I'm using the bondech qr, so it can really pump out the plastic.
Lampshades are functional! Though I would suggest using them with LED lighting as they run cool - PLA probably won't cop the heat of a 60W incandescent bulb let alone a 100W or 150W!
Bravo Angus, technical stuff, with a nice creative twist. Also great that you're looking into large diameter nozzles, i've used a .8 with a lot of advantages over the typical .4
The surface area to volume with bigger nozzles means the plastic will cool much slower so bridging with 2mm nozzles is likely not going to work unless you have some serious way of cooling it (like printing in a fridge or something).
These are really the interresting kind of 3d printing hacks. Btw, what about designing infill in your CAD program, and printing that in vasemode? This custom infill could make your object soft in one direction and stiff in another direction...
the voxelized pyramid would make a interesting strainer. or a planting pot insert that allowed water to get to the soil. or a filtering screen. Great video. Always new ideas here.
I don't understand this, british literally created America both as a nation and as a culture. If anything they should be bitching about how you suddenely started prenouncing it differently, they literally created the word.
Whenever I make overhangs in vase mode. I tend to set up some temporary slow downs in the g-code while the print head is going over empty space and over those previous lines once more. Then its usually safe to print at full speed.
You are the distance from Sydney I am but the other way, wow Glad to see someone from Australia on here, and I love watching these vids. Keep it up ^_^
You're forgetting something... tomato tomahto, potato potahto, people say shit differently no matter where you are. You say good day, I say g'day. You say crisps, I say chips. You say vayz I say vahz. And so does Makers Muse.
You make no fucking sense right now. First you say that a certain way is THE correct way to pronounce something and then you say that everyone pronounces it differently based on where they live. And how dare you assume that I say crisps...you don't know where I live!
1) The soil in the vases will make it stronger. The soil will press out and make it more stable. 2) The problems with the 70 overhang is probably that the distance between the traces are longer. Just look at the trace from the trace line. And use Pythagoras to calculate distance (the hypotenuse). In straight 90 degrees wall gives approximately the height in distance, more or less ignoring the width as it moves near 0 in x and all in y. But as the wall is getting closer to 45 degrees, the distance will increase as the distance in side (x) increases. (using math axes). So, as the wall gets flatter, the layer hight should decreace, to get constant distance between each layers strings, if you know what I mean. So that is why the walls are getting trancelutent too. Good work and ideas though.
I have two and a half questions. 1. Would it be possible to print multiple layers, laterally, to increase the strength of the vase print? 2. If the atmosphere around your biodegradable print were cooler would the integrity of the bridge be greater and if so, would it be practical to facilitate that environment?
...if you are printing 0.2 layers on 0.4 nozzle and 45 degs is recommended maximum overhang, and then you switch to 0.1 layer on the same nozzle, it is quite obvious you can achieve higher overhangs. Because you can overlay TWO layers now over the same vertical distance as only one, before. So, you can "step out" twice over the same vertical distance and still have exactly as much support from the layer below as previously. I actually only realized that after watching this part of the video when you compare the domes.
Nice video! If you print at 0.8 width with a 0.4 nozzle then it's pumping out twice the plastic, so your bridges will sag like that (@9:18) more easily (just like you said about curved bridges). I bet it wouldn't be so bad with a 0.4 line width or less - of course then it would be weaker and have worse performance on the overhangs then. I wonder if there's a slicer that could deal with this in vase mode?
I wish there was some vase mode tweaks that would allow for a limited internal tree support so you could print closed flat topped shapes, and print multiple points with a removable support. If you combine vase mode with filling the vase with some kind of resin or cement, you could make large fast prints that are very sturdy as well.
With a lot of slicer work you could have it vary the extrusion width as a function of the overhang angle for uniformly strong and translucent parts. That would be interesting. (and hard.)
Try doing the large nozzle print in vase mode with a Lulzbot TAZ with the Moarstruder, I just put together the Moarstruder which you have to 3D print the parts of the toolhead and put in the extruder. It uses a 1mm nozzle. I will experiment with vase mode as well, seems interesting.
Really interesting. It would be cool if in the GCode you could dynamically alter the extrusion width based on the overhang angle. i.e. start at 0.4mm at 90 degree layers, gradually increasing as the overhang angle increases. I wonder if it would help keep the layers consistent and perhaps also allow even greater overhangs (although 70 degrees is pretty steep)
It can be sold as an odd shaped strainer or plastic basket for plants. I think that would be a clever way to recoup a bad print aside from recycling the plastic.
A strange thing I found about vase mode is the speed greatly changes how opaque something is. I started a print pretty slow to make a nice finish. I had to go out so I sped it up to finish it quickly. The quality of the fast part was way smoother and transparent than the bottom. I thought the opposite would be true till I tried it by chance mid print. Might be something to investigate further.
I once forgot to change modes after printing a vase, when I decided to print an articulated slug. The slug came out nearly perfect if fragile, with quirky spiraled holes on its back.
You say the vase is too weak, but remember there's going to be a dirt filling. You only need to worry about tensile strengths of the material for containing that dirt, which will far exceed what's needed to work.
+Nicholas Thon that's very true, the ones I filled with soil are still working great
Nice point.
could also just dip it in plaster of paris or something
Where can I find that iceberg model? I really want to try out vase mode on my printer with that interesting shape!
Im also looking for this! :-)
I actually just made one myself, lol. I'll upload it to thingiverse
quick, but there's no description yet.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2037878
LazerLord10 Nice, but its not really as perfect as the one in the video :-P
That would be your settings
LazerLord10 Nice model! Printed it and looks super neat! Thanks
Very thorough and interesting investigation. Great stuff! I love the look of that 'voxelized' pyramid
Thanks man! Yeah it was lots of fun experimentation. Keen to see how other people take it and create their own things. There's already talk of hydroponic /aquaponics filters and such in the comments ;)
Awesome, I'll definitely keep it in mind as another trick under the belt
Do you think you could provide a link to the stl file of the 'voxelized' pyramid?
I love your channel Devin!
Me too!
It's actually quite overwhelming that so many people can't comprehend that people say things differently in different places
Jack Lee-Scott but nobody pronounces island correctly
Where the fuck did the silent "s" come from? "S"s are not silent, it's not written "iland". The official pronunciation is wrong
generation grammar nazi ;D
@@timotheatae How about we start pushing for it through memes?
No one cares
@@The_Wosh No wtf?
Hey there! Before you embarrass yourself by commenting on my pronunciation of 'vase' keep in mind I am Australian, not American. We follow UK rules for the most part. Still too complicated? Watch this great video to learn more. ua-cam.com/video/aRb8iOtDTZ0/v-deo.html 'mind blown'. Have a great day mate.
lol don't judge, be creative, bro. but I think you don't need to confirm it, Maker's Muse xD because this is not a big deal.
Maker's Muse same here I try to keep with my American pronunciations but some times I sound Canadian. but I am sure proud of my European ancestors.
Why would you want to "sound" American? Canadians are looked at in a much better light than Americans by about 99% of the world. Nothing against Americans, they are generally great people, just saying...
Agreed Joel, the only idiot people is you: Infires Nation's ARMY. And people like you're distrubing for me and make me hope one day all idiot human like you will be gone from this Earth.
Im not exactly sure what that means, but I am Canadian, thanks EH!!! lol
Big thumb's up for being visually considerate of your viewers, and showing them exactly what you're talking about. Show and Tell, the oldest and best way. Bravo.
Seems like Vase Mode is perfect for making a positive for mold making. If you used it for helmets, you could then make a rubber mold of it and make fiberglass shells. I might have to try that as soon as I get my larger printer running.
Thanks Angus! I'm in the process of making a cosmetic leg cover for my Wife's prosthetic leg and this will save be BOAT LOADS of time in test prints while we try and nail down the final shape!
Love the experiments! Id like to suggest one, I noticed that when I print some models the cooler that I have on my printer blows air in such a way to whistle (similar to blowing over the top of a bottle). I always wondered if a model could be designed to play a tune while it printed. It most likely would look like a bunch of tubes in the end, but it would make for a fun experiment.
Love the Videos! Thanks again!
Put an LED in the blue crystal thing for a wonderful night-light or lamp.
That's what I thought.
@@aidenallred3219 but were do i find that blue cristal one ? thx in advance
Robby Mylle
Something like that would not be difficult to make yourself in a 3D package like Blender 3D.
you are a fabulous presenter. I love your enthusiasm and willingness to share & educate. I wish more youtubers had your approach & style.
Neat! That 2mm nozzle is crazy! I've been using vase mode to make transparent optical parts like light diffusers (fancy lampshades for my lightsabers) to prevent the 'zippers' you normally get that become really obvious when back-lit. I'm even learning to use the layer lines as "microlenses" to pull some _very_ interesting tricks. Practically holographic.
That sounds awesome! I'd love to check out your results
IT'S NOT JUST A VASE, MOM!
nolaz010 😂
nolaz010 haha!
said stiffler? ;D
Apparently the FT-5 is good at those large-nozzle vase prints. It has pretty beefy motors, but I haven't done much with the hotend yet. Maybe I'll try that iceberg-looking model with translucent green!
Love this exploit, the insatiable curiosity and the methodological investigation of practical applications
This might be an interesting way to make lightweight things like 3d printed airplanes
Yup I know a site where you can buy vase mode optimized RC airplane plans ;)
Supposed to run in vase mode with PLA. They say that are still very strong.
Been wanting to check it out but I don't have the money to spend on a new set of RC electronics.
Link please?
Hmnnn... you could print the parts in vase mode, and then fill them with a light polyurethane foam to give them strenght.
well I haven't had much time to delve into it yet but they seem to also be using a 3D support structure. Very similar to how balsa models are made, a balsa wood structure with a film over it.
Yes, you have to have internal support for a wing. The interesting part is how the Gcode pathing allows the printer to to do a vase-path while still printing internal supports. I have a Prusa i3 MK2 and they now come with a Spitfire in about 25 Gcode files that you can print. I printed one part (of 4) for the left wing to see how it would come out. It's very nice actually and I learned a lot just watching the pathing the machine took.
This has probably been said by now, but the vase mode print with the voids would work great for an in line water filter.
drinking game: take a drink every time he says vase.
Good way to end up in hospital ;)
*vaz
Do you want me to die?
Take a drink, of water.
He never said that he only said vas not vace
7'04 mins into video that's one of the smartest 3D printing things Ive seen. What a great video this one is, well done Angus.
Dude Angus Come on man give us the blue iceybergy thing we are waiting for it i am waiting for more than 2 month for it since the first time
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK MAN. you are awesome
ua-cam.com/video/8IwJDfT-H6o/v-deo.html
You are a GENIUS!!! Innovative with possibly too much time on your hands(to our benefit of course) Keep thinking outside the box.
That blue thing is beautiful! What filament Angus?
JMW Concepts He did a tutorial on how to make those. I printed one in natural PETG and it looks awesome
SUPERB video, thanks!!
I use Cura as my slicer, just because it is the first one I found for my Anet A8. I LOVE "vase" mode. It is in quotes because Cura calls it "Spiralise Outer Contour". What I love doing with it is simple rectangles, with no top - as drawer or parts organizers. By printing fairly wide - 0.4 or 0.5, it is sufficiently strong.
All good stuff, thank you.
but when your stuff gets so light don't overlook weighting it down. Just a chunk of metal or sand or something in the bottom to keep it heavy is somewhat common in manufacturing if you're going to make a pen and pencil cup you kind of need to weigh it down
You have no idea how much you just helped me, thanks for doing so many experiments
6:17
This is awesome. I made a pencil holder and I wanted to do it in vase mode but because of the angles I thought it would fail. But now I need to try it because I bet it would do something similar to that cone! Thanks for the ideas
You look like Evie
Thanks for the video!! I am trying to make quick prototypes for a vase so this is exactly what I needed :) Also, I think the fact that you combine the explanation with your experiments is really engaging, it looks like you really enjoy doing this and that good energy gets transferred! I got also shocked with the thick nozzle, I´m totally looking into that. Thanks, this made my day!
Thank you for using the correct pronunciation of vase
Watching UA-cam closed captions trying to caption this guy’s “vases” is the most wondrous phenomenon I’ve ever witnessed.
Oh my god, my mom's never gonna believe me. I finally found him...
Silly. Its pronounded as "voo." The 'a' makes a long 'u' sound and 's's and 'e's are always silent in English.
Best comment about pronunciation yet lol
LOL 😂😂
I have a lovely voo at home
Island
So your saying Genesis is gni
Thanks, one of the best videos Ive seen on 3d printing for a while. Something different, cheers Angus!
Thanks Phil! At the end of the day it's all about learning - I enjoy trying new things to see what happens.
I really just want this guy's shirt 😂
AAAADdventuraamaa!
Yes, how are there not more comments on the shirt?!
Very nice video! I've experimented a bit with vase mode in the past, but nothing this thorough. The voxelized cone was an amazing idea! Wow!
Can you print (using 1.75mm)with a 2mm nozzle? Holy sh*t
Also, that squared_cone_thingy is amacing
No you can't print 2mm with 1.75mm filament the person in the video is using a Ultimaker and that runs 3mm filament. There is a 1.2mm nozzle for the E3d volcano that you can use with 1.75mm filament
Oh ok, thx 4 the answer.
My printer is a cheap aliexpress kit so I cant really get good details. The acrilic not-so-rigid frame and the feeding mechanism make it useless in the tiny details when printing. Lets not talk about the endstop switches, secured with 1 bolt so they can rotate a little bit each time the printer homes itself.
However printing faster with a wider nozzle sounds so nice. If I cant get the details at least I can print big stuff. I was going to replace the extruder assembly anyway so I may get a volcano.
Extra question: I am going to change the extruder and the direct drive mechanism, making it 3mm is worth it? Just focusing in printing faster with a huge nozzle
The trick with large diameter nozzles is you have to melt and cool a LOT more plastic than usual - so your heating and cooling must be really powerful. Usually, you have to run very slow so it can keep up which somewhat defeats the purpose. I would use your current machine to start printing parts and upgrades for itself or even an entirely new printer :) It'll improve itself over time.
Go the 'Gong! My mother's home town (to say nothing of everyone's favourite Aunty). Thanks for a great channel with some excellent resources for 3D printer learny goodness.
Won't the fact that PLA is biodegradable (and in this case, thin) be a problem for vases?
aiklarung False: These are not vases. Because the guy said so.
Not really as the conditions to actually make it degrade are specific. The environment needs to be very hot and needs certain organic compost.
So it will be fine for using it as your typical vase or pot.
This was super cool, very insightful to see experiment videos like this. Helps me understand what my printer should be capable of. Awesome content, keep it up!
Thank you for pronouncing vase properly.
Thank you so much for posting this! I have zits (perfect name) ever since I started experimenting with vase mode. Glad I found this, I thought I tried everything - but not obviously everything.
"ooooo who's burning the cookies?" ;)
I'd like to give it a go with this pot, I printed 12 pointed tree topper star using vase mode for each point using my volcano nozzle with a .6mm nozzle, but intentionally overextruding to reach .9mm wall thickness, and was able to get super clean finishes. Each point printed quickly and was very strong and very smooth. I think that's roughly the sweet spot because .9mm walls are pretty strong -- I might be able to force it to get to 1.2mm walls using the same nozzle as I'm using the bondech qr, so it can really pump out the plastic.
A thought, a Chinese lantern
Brilliant work. Your "what if" path is nicely inspired.
Lampshades are functional!
Though I would suggest using them with LED lighting as they run cool - PLA probably won't cop the heat of a 60W incandescent bulb let alone a 100W or 150W!
Haha definitely needs to be LED!
What do you call vase mode with a 60W incandescent bulb? Answer: Dali mode
Mind = Blown. A 2mm nozzle is a great idea! you can get a wall thickness of 1mm with one pass! Brilliant
Why is everyone commenting about his pronunciation of vase? I mean, he’s Australian, not American.
Because only 15% of Amuricuns have passports and have ever had their ignorant arses of of the US.
@@truantray VAUSy
@@jeric_synergy8581 U
@@jeric_synergy8581 S
@@jeric_synergy8581 A
Bravo Angus, technical stuff, with a nice creative twist. Also great that you're looking into large diameter nozzles, i've used a .8 with a lot of advantages over the typical .4
youtube unsubbed me from your channel!
That sucks! Thanks for letting me know
Finally an intro "let's get started" that doesn't rub me up the wrong way.
Okay so where can I get the other two things that you showed off?
Just added the Pot to the description! Won't be releasing the blue iceberg thing, not yet anyway :)
Maker's Muse I tried to get it, Gumroad says file is not for sale
Sorry my bad, the 4G is being really flaky and it didn't publish. Try now :)
okay, everything is good, thanks :-)
Wait, why are there no top layers on your prints, did it just fail there?
"Okey I hack vase mode and see if we can get something special, other than vases" 7:55 *being back at making vases again*
where Can download the model?
I really dig the giant nozzle on the like pots as you showed at the end it reminds me of a coil clay pot but obviously cooler
Veys
or
Vaas
?
Dude it’s pronounced Vase
@@soup-flavored-soup6613 lol
The surface area to volume with bigger nozzles means the plastic will cool much slower so bridging with 2mm nozzles is likely not going to work unless you have some serious way of cooling it (like printing in a fridge or something).
*voz mode*
“overhangs” 😮 I had never even considered how that would factor into things.
Why does he pronounce it vaas? Not vase?
because you're not cultured
Because he's pronouncing it correctly.
Because Americans fuck everything up including pronunciation of words.
These are really the interresting kind of 3d printing hacks.
Btw, what about designing infill in your CAD program, and printing that in vasemode? This custom infill could make your object soft in one direction and stiff in another direction...
i dont like your shirt... I love it
the voxelized pyramid would make a interesting strainer. or a planting pot insert that allowed water to get to the soil. or a filtering screen. Great video. Always new ideas here.
Great video. However, it's pronounced vase, not vase.
I kid of course.
Trent Wainwright V-ace
Ah so vase? Not vase or vase?
+Abdu Salam Yep! You got it!
Trent Wainwright "it's pronounced vase not vase" dude that makes no fucking sense XD
another excellent video Angus!
um please explain what voz mode
XileKami K It's vase. As in, like a flower vase. Used for printing vases. The british pronounce it weird.
Tetrachromia ik what he meant when he said voz man
if you get what hes meaning there should be no problem. There are a lot different dialects and languages is this world
Alex R. Yeah no duh but it's funny to see him say it that way
XileKamiK Gaming "see him say it that way"
I like that crystal shape. Stick an LED in it and you have some cool decorations.
"vozz" count: 43
veze*
I don't understand this, british literally created America both as a nation and as a culture. If anything they should be bitching about how you suddenely started prenouncing it differently, they literally created the word.
Joshua Sorrenti yeah but they say "aluminum" wrong. :(
+Sorrenti “DasCorncakes” J actuality the way Americans speak is closer to the original way English was spoken.
Lol
Whenever I make overhangs in vase mode. I tend to set up some temporary slow downs in the g-code while the print head is going over empty space and over those previous lines once more. Then its usually safe to print at full speed.
vos mode
¿Vos modés?
Lol sounds like some kind of race mode
You are the distance from Sydney I am but the other way, wow
Glad to see someone from Australia on here, and I love watching these vids. Keep it up ^_^
vaaaz
FUCK YOU
Really love this video man. Awesome experimentation.
Thanks man! It was loads of fun.
“v A se “. “vAse”!!! vase
Are you...
Fucking really!?
Vase mode seems great to make bedside lamps!
omg the way he says vase makes me wanna jump off a bridge the E makes the freaking A say its name!!!!!!!
Jyac Truong-Ho aww its cute seeing people mad call me papi next time plzz
Funny that how people around the world pronounce and spell words differently - some even speak different languages!
Maker's Muse oh wow seriously I thought everyone spoke English thanks for informing me daddy
Happy to educate.
These passive insults are amazing
loving your channel sir. subscribed
the way he pronounces "vase" disturbs me more than it should
mrozak2 - ... Thats how its SUPPOSED to be said...
+SilverDirt Draws nope it's not supposed to be this way
You're forgetting something... tomato tomahto, potato potahto, people say shit differently no matter where you are. You say good day, I say g'day. You say crisps, I say chips. You say vayz I say vahz. And so does Makers Muse.
You make no fucking sense right now. First you say that a certain way is THE correct way to pronounce something and then you say that everyone pronounces it differently based on where they live. And how dare you assume that I say crisps...you don't know where I live!
He's Australian who's language pronunciation mostly comes from the UK where it's V-arse dictionary.cambridge.org/pronunciation/english/vase
1) The soil in the vases will make it stronger. The soil will press out and make it more stable.
2) The problems with the 70 overhang is probably that the distance between the traces are longer. Just look at the trace from the trace line. And use Pythagoras to calculate distance (the hypotenuse). In straight 90 degrees wall gives approximately the height in distance, more or less ignoring the width as it moves near 0 in x and all in y. But as the wall is getting closer to 45 degrees, the distance will increase as the distance in side (x) increases. (using math axes). So, as the wall gets flatter, the layer hight should decreace, to get constant distance between each layers strings, if you know what I mean.
So that is why the walls are getting trancelutent too.
Good work and ideas though.
I hadn't heard about this mode until I saw this. So cool!
Great idea Angus. We can always rely on you to come up with new ideas to push the envelope :-)
If you don't try new things you'll never learn new things!
I have two and a half questions.
1. Would it be possible to print multiple layers, laterally, to increase the strength of the vase print?
2. If the atmosphere around your biodegradable print were cooler would the integrity of the bridge be greater and if so, would it be practical to facilitate that environment?
great for the environment printing plastic stuff. congratulations
...if you are printing 0.2 layers on 0.4 nozzle and 45 degs is recommended maximum overhang, and then you switch to 0.1 layer on the same nozzle, it is quite obvious you can achieve higher overhangs. Because you can overlay TWO layers now over the same vertical distance as only one, before. So, you can "step out" twice over the same vertical distance and still have exactly as much support from the layer below as previously.
I actually only realized that after watching this part of the video when you compare the domes.
Nice video!
If you print at 0.8 width with a 0.4 nozzle then it's pumping out twice the plastic, so your bridges will sag like that (@9:18) more easily (just like you said about curved bridges). I bet it wouldn't be so bad with a 0.4 line width or less - of course then it would be weaker and have worse performance on the overhangs then.
I wonder if there's a slicer that could deal with this in vase mode?
I wish there was some vase mode tweaks that would allow for a limited internal tree support so you could print closed flat topped shapes, and print multiple points with a removable support. If you combine vase mode with filling the vase with some kind of resin or cement, you could make large fast prints that are very sturdy as well.
Nice job sir! I was playing with the vase settings as well here. I am using it now to make wing sections for a 3D printed plane, works quite well!
Very interesting Angus! Great to see some practical applications being produced from that testing! :)
Definitely, experiments always yield at least some kind of valuable information.
Interesting experiment! Nice video Angus!
That's cool. Love the experimentation and seeing the different results.
This is why I subscribed. Science
With a lot of slicer work you could have it vary the extrusion width as a function of the overhang angle for uniformly strong and translucent parts. That would be interesting. (and hard.)
Try doing the large nozzle print in vase mode with a Lulzbot TAZ with the Moarstruder, I just put together the Moarstruder which you have to 3D print the parts of the toolhead and put in the extruder. It uses a 1mm nozzle. I will experiment with vase mode as well, seems interesting.
When you said 2mm nozzle I thought "An 0.2mm nozzle isn't such a big deal. Ohhhhh" *Eyes widen to the size of dinner plates*
Really interesting. It would be cool if in the GCode you could dynamically alter the extrusion width based on the overhang angle. i.e. start at 0.4mm at 90 degree layers, gradually increasing as the overhang angle increases. I wonder if it would help keep the layers consistent and perhaps also allow even greater overhangs (although 70 degrees is pretty steep)
very cool, keep up with experimentation videos! That's when we all learn the most!
Great video man! Thanks for the shout-out, I'm glad to have contributed to your tinkering!
Welcome! It was cool to see what you could do with it.
It can be sold as an odd shaped strainer or plastic basket for plants. I think that would be a clever way to recoup a bad print aside from recycling the plastic.
A strange thing I found about vase mode is the speed greatly changes how opaque something is. I started a print pretty slow to make a nice finish. I had to go out so I sped it up to finish it quickly. The quality of the fast part was way smoother and transparent than the bottom. I thought the opposite would be true till I tried it by chance mid print. Might be something to investigate further.
Now available as velocity painting as I'm sure you're aware.
That's great, I'm thinking in what was the behavior for the holes at the base.
I once forgot to change modes after printing a vase, when I decided to print an articulated slug. The slug came out nearly perfect if fragile, with quirky spiraled holes on its back.
For a base on a vase you could use 2 possess in S3d. Make the base solid and thick for weight then go to vase mode for the walls