Unfortunately, you may have to wait for a failure or the noise is so obvious it can be noticed easily for the dealers to take action. More subtle noises and issues they just don't seem to care much about.
I’m not getting the noise but noticed the rear differential was getting extremely hot. Rear differential oil is Burt and only takes about 5 miles to burn new oil. It’s at the dealer now and they are into the transmission last I knew, if Yamaha is going to do something I hope they do it soon before I drop a few grand on it. I’m hoping Yamaha can produce a machine that can last more than 1000 miles. Side note, my brother in law has the same machine and had to have his main bearing replaced at 800 miles
I just bought one I have heard a noise from the time I got home it sounded like it was coming from the front passenger side axel or something. But anyways I have 8 hours and 100 miles. So I’m going to stay tuned to your channel and see what happens. I have a 54 month warranty so if it breaks hope it’s with in that lol
Note to self break it in before you actually use it for any kind of riding and change out all the factory BS with aftermarket parts sure it costs more money but it'll be an investment down the road I never buy new toys off the showroom floor and just take them out for what they're supposedly intended for without fixing them up with aftermarket parts / breaking them in just my opinion
This machine was broken in. The trans came apart running 20 MPH after only 2 hours on the machine. The axles broke during normal trail riding. I have been offroading and riding motorcycles for 23 years. Most of which was done on a Yamaha. I've never had a machine break this much, nor have I had problems getting parts if it did. These machines cost too much to need to replace items like axles unless you are riding under extreme conditions which I'm not. Our two previous Yamaha UTVs were bullet proof and are still going after years of abuse. My father and I are both heavy equipment mechanics by trade. We understand break in and proper maintenance. Yamaha did not research these units enough before pushing them to market. I believe they released them during COVID with sub par quality control and parts supply. As far as aftermarket, I have had my machine over a year and there are no aftermarket axles.
@@jmac03black did u get another rmax I have a 2020wolverine special think about getting a rmax le2022 or 2023 2 seater always had Yamaha snowmobiles motor cycle
I know what failed on the Yamaha REAR half shafts MAKING ALL THAT POPING AND BANGING, EVERYTHING! POOR DESIGN POSSIBLY POOR MATERIALS POOR TOLERANCES & POOR MACHINING/GRINDING Yamaha’s configuration: The outboard joint is ONLY a rzeppa joint, No axial travel at all. (not a bad thing) The inboard IS A MODIFIED RZEPPA, allowing axial travel. I have not seen another implementation of this type of joint, though I would bet $$$ that if it could be made to work reliably, GM would have done it. Guess which one is making the noise! Footnotes: If you are familiar with the GM rzeppa design, you know that the inner and outer ball races are arranged in a cross axes pattern, canted. This configuration helps keep the balls in a plane called the homokinetic plane. GM also uses a cage to work together with the canted ball races to ensure the bearings stay well aligned within the homokinetic plane. By doing this, the joint becomes a ROBUST TRUE CONSTANT VELOCITY which has a long life in use. GM did everything else right too. Half shafts need a swivel joint on each end and a means to accommodate length change. GM chose to use a rzeppa on the outboard swivel joint and use something different, which they call a TRIPOT for the inboard swivel joint. The trypot is not a true constant velocity joint AND it cannot handle the torques and amount of deflection that the rzeppa can, but it is good enough to handle the demands of the job as drive shaft deflection angles on the inboard end are not large and it also collapses to perform the length changing requirements AND THEY DO IT for an exceptionally long life. BACK TO THE YAMAHA DESIGN: The outboard rzeppa will do GREAT in this application for many thousands of miles in all conditions expected in the ATV’s provided the design is correct, i.e. High precision, preloaded correctly and well lubricated. Yamaha’s implementation remains unproven for me, only time will tell. For the inboard swivel joint that Yamaha came up with, and presumably the same as the other ATV manufactures, it’s a compromised rzeppa. The ball races are PARALLEL TO THE AXIS OF THE SHAFT. This modification allows the inner race to travel up and down the outer race accommodating the shaft length change function. The consequences of this adaptation: The baring cage alone must keep the balls from falling out and traveling within the homokinetic plane. Theoretically, this should/would be fine, but in at least this case I can say Yamaha’s bearing tolerances don’t even come close to that of GM’s. There is actually zero preload on the bearings! The outer races don’t appear to be as polished as the inners, only contacting on the edges of the race channels. Also, both inner and outer races have dimples made by the ball bearing contact, like they don’t have the required hardness. Probably needed soft materials to handle the dynamic loads created by the lash in the bearings alone. Footnote; The rzeppa joints that GM manufactures are among the tightest tolerance assemblies, ANYWHERE. Even exceeding the normal high precision bearing tolerances. Back to Yamaha, I personally don’t believe Yamaha’s design had a chance at long life. Relying on the bearing cage alone to keep the balls in the correct location and loose fitting bearings without proper preload coupled with soft materials guarantees early failure. THEY WERE NOT DRY as some people suggested online! Quite the contrary! I can apply enough torque with my hands while telescoping the joint to feel the coggy bearings. YOU CAN SEE THE DENTS IN THE RACES WHERE THEY HAVE BEEN RIDING. This application needs true rzeppa joints on each end and a telescoping spline pair between them to accommodate the length change. APPEARANTLY, NO MANUFACTURE IS WILLING TO SPEND THE MONEY. CONCLUSION: I CAN EXPECT TO CHANGE HALF SHAFTS AT LEAST EVERY 2000 MILES. (THE COMPONENTS ARE NOT INDIVIDUALLY AVAILABLE, SO….)
It’s your rear axle. Just did a video on mine not to long ago. They ended changing both rear axles on mine. It’s very quite now
Thanks for the update. Keep us up to date.
Unfortunately, you may have to wait for a failure or the noise is so obvious it can be noticed easily for the dealers to take action. More subtle noises and issues they just don't seem to care much about.
I’m not getting the noise but noticed the rear differential was getting extremely hot. Rear differential oil is Burt and only takes about 5 miles to burn new oil. It’s at the dealer now and they are into the transmission last I knew, if Yamaha is going to do something I hope they do it soon before I drop a few grand on it. I’m hoping Yamaha can produce a machine that can last more than 1000 miles. Side note, my brother in law has the same machine and had to have his main bearing replaced at 800 miles
@@daleplanty7897 what year models are your two machines?
@@jmac03black they are both 2021 RMAX 1000 limited
@@jmac03black 4 seater
Transmission getting ready to lock up, Yamaha working on a redesign
Thanks for the update.
Pay attention to OTG, he had the same problem with his rmax 4
Just curious, what ride in Arkansas are going on?
One way clutch bearing bad?
I just bought one I have heard a noise from the time I got home it sounded like it was coming from the front passenger side axel or something. But anyways I have 8 hours and 100 miles. So I’m going to stay tuned to your channel and see what happens. I have a 54 month warranty so if it breaks hope it’s with in that lol
Check out my other videos. Ive since moved on from the Rmax.
I'm pretty deaf but anytime I have a nuisance issue with anything. Runner till she blows, then I'll know what's wrong with it.
Axle problem!
Mud dried in the tires... watch "My Cousin Vinny"
Where did you buy that windshield?
It is actually available from several places. It's made by Extreme Metal Products.
Mine has that same banging noise
Note to self break it in before you actually use it for any kind of riding and change out all the factory BS with aftermarket parts sure it costs more money but it'll be an investment down the road I never buy new toys off the showroom floor and just take them out for what they're supposedly intended for without fixing them up with aftermarket parts / breaking them in just my opinion
This machine was broken in. The trans came apart running 20 MPH after only 2 hours on the machine. The axles broke during normal trail riding. I have been offroading and riding motorcycles for 23 years. Most of which was done on a Yamaha. I've never had a machine break this much, nor have I had problems getting parts if it did. These machines cost too much to need to replace items like axles unless you are riding under extreme conditions which I'm not. Our two previous Yamaha UTVs were bullet proof and are still going after years of abuse. My father and I are both heavy equipment mechanics by trade. We understand break in and proper maintenance. Yamaha did not research these units enough before pushing them to market. I believe they released them during COVID with sub par quality control and parts supply. As far as aftermarket, I have had my machine over a year and there are no aftermarket axles.
@@jmac03black superatv has rhino 2.0 axles for these machines now. Expensive but available
@@jmac03blackthanks for sharing. Re-thinking getting one now.
So what is the problem
It was the axle. I traded the unit in.
@@jmac03black did u get another rmax I have a 2020wolverine special think about getting a rmax le2022 or 2023 2 seater always had Yamaha snowmobiles motor cycle
Just wanted to know if you found out what the noise was ??
The balls in the rear axle had flat spots in them.
Another guy had problems because of 8 pounds of tire pressure.On you tube also.
What was the problem exactly?
@@jmac03black Ot gas, has site on utube Rmax 1000 axle failure,Why he thinks it failured.Might help.Got me worry about mine.Two axles not one.
I know what failed on the Yamaha REAR half shafts MAKING ALL THAT POPING AND BANGING, EVERYTHING!
POOR DESIGN
POSSIBLY POOR MATERIALS
POOR TOLERANCES
& POOR MACHINING/GRINDING
Yamaha’s configuration:
The outboard joint is ONLY a rzeppa joint, No axial travel at all. (not a bad thing)
The inboard IS A MODIFIED RZEPPA, allowing axial travel. I have not seen another implementation of this type of joint, though I would bet $$$ that if it could be made to work reliably, GM would have done it. Guess which one is making the noise!
Footnotes:
If you are familiar with the GM rzeppa design, you know that the inner and outer ball races are arranged in a cross axes pattern, canted. This configuration helps keep the balls in a plane called the homokinetic plane. GM also uses a cage to work together with the canted ball races to ensure the bearings stay well aligned within the homokinetic plane. By doing this, the joint becomes a ROBUST TRUE CONSTANT VELOCITY which has a long life in use. GM did everything else right too.
Half shafts need a swivel joint on each end and a means to accommodate length change.
GM chose to use a rzeppa on the outboard swivel joint and use something different, which they call a TRIPOT for the inboard swivel joint. The trypot is not a true constant velocity joint AND it cannot handle the torques and amount of deflection that the rzeppa can, but it is good enough to handle the demands of the job as drive shaft deflection angles on the inboard end are not large and it also collapses to perform the length changing requirements AND THEY DO IT for an exceptionally long life.
BACK TO THE YAMAHA DESIGN:
The outboard rzeppa will do GREAT in this application for many thousands of miles in all conditions expected in the ATV’s provided the design is correct, i.e. High precision, preloaded correctly and well lubricated. Yamaha’s implementation remains unproven for me, only time will tell.
For the inboard swivel joint that Yamaha came up with, and presumably the same as the other ATV manufactures, it’s a compromised rzeppa. The ball races are PARALLEL TO THE AXIS OF THE SHAFT. This modification allows the inner race to travel up and down the outer race accommodating the shaft length change function.
The consequences of this adaptation:
The baring cage alone must keep the balls from falling out and traveling within the homokinetic plane.
Theoretically, this should/would be fine, but in at least this case I can say Yamaha’s bearing tolerances don’t even come close to that of GM’s. There is actually zero preload on the bearings! The outer races don’t appear to be as polished as the inners, only contacting on the edges of the race channels. Also, both inner and outer races have dimples made by the ball bearing contact, like they don’t have the required hardness. Probably needed soft materials to handle the dynamic loads created by the lash in the bearings alone.
Footnote;
The rzeppa joints that GM manufactures are among the tightest tolerance assemblies, ANYWHERE. Even exceeding the normal high precision bearing tolerances.
Back to Yamaha,
I personally don’t believe Yamaha’s design had a chance at long life. Relying on the bearing cage alone to keep the balls in the correct location and loose fitting bearings without proper preload coupled with soft materials guarantees early failure.
THEY WERE NOT DRY as some people suggested online! Quite the contrary!
I can apply enough torque with my hands while telescoping the joint to feel the coggy bearings. YOU CAN SEE THE DENTS IN THE RACES WHERE THEY HAVE BEEN RIDING.
This application needs true rzeppa joints on each end and a telescoping spline pair between them to accommodate the length change. APPEARANTLY, NO MANUFACTURE IS WILLING TO SPEND THE MONEY.
CONCLUSION: I CAN EXPECT TO CHANGE HALF SHAFTS AT LEAST EVERY 2000 MILES. (THE COMPONENTS ARE NOT INDIVIDUALLY AVAILABLE, SO….)
Put some axle’s in and ride
This video is over a year old. There were no axles available at the time. I have since moved on to a Can Am. It has not broken in 1500 miles.
4 seater can am is hole different options - long these sort 4 seat pretty awesome