Відео

So how well did windshields do ? Been looking at safety glass windshields , and wondering how well they handle scratches , I hear after a while the polycarbonate windshields can get annoying with the scratches .

I've also got a 24 T7. Had mine 7 months now. I'm short 5'8 and overweight (250 lbs in full gear), and old (50 something, i try to forget that part). It does take alot to learn how to handle this bike at slow speeds and on uneven terrain. I run mostly gravel forest roads and ATV trails. Sometimes a short commute to work (10 miles). It was somewhat of a handful at first, but I love the bike. It will be in my garage for life. Subscribed.

2021

Hi mate what brand is your rear rack?

I have a fresh T7 in my garage right now. Subscribed.

100% agree with the clutch/gearbox. The dealer where I bought it from said it was normal but I took it to another dealer and there was an issue with the clutch. It was awful to ride when cold, starting the from cold in gear and the bike would jump forward pretty bad. Took the shine off this bike for me. Still not sure if I want to keep it or move it on.

What tires are those?

i really like this bike,and i had some yamahas dual sport(xt600,tt600),but as an 80% on road guy,i ll go for the 2025 transalp.plus the 20 more hp on the transalp counts...

Great accurate review of the T7 …… I’m enjoying mine so far. The bike has some subpar stock parts but that’s to be expected for the $10k price point they were aiming for. For me the motor feels really unimpressive even though it does everything it’s supposed to do and like you mentioned hits 100 easily and holds 75-80 with no issues, it just does it all in a very mellow fashion …… Im starting go tj throw some aftermarket love at mine to get it more comfy and exciting for daily commute and future motocamping etc

47000 km on my 2022 T7. No problems at all, valves at 40k service didnt need adjustment, still in spec. I run a HP Corse high mount exhaust, no modfication to the frame necessary. Acerbis plastic skid plate. Prototype Team(instagram) Explorer combined higher windshield and headlight protection screen. I also relocated my rear turnsignals to the rear light assembly (drilled a hole each side of it) Just for considerations.

That throttle snatch is common on cable EFI. I think it’s one of the few advantages carbs still have over fuel injection. I’ve considered consolidating my two bikes and getting this or a vstrom 800. I think it’s powered that way to keep it under stressed and keep it Yamaha reliable. Long haul Paul has 180k miles on his. Nice review man!

Good review by a real damn person not getting paid to say stupid shit. Thank you man!

These are extremely capable off road. I know its not a dirt bike but still a great bike all around. Once you're done off road, its no problem jumping back on the interstate to head home. People knock the road use of this bike, but in my opinion it's great all around.

I'm an off roader and I bought one. It's a fun bike, but I sold it. I like the bigger ridiculous fast bikes more. I can still get them into stupid places where people look at you like you're an alien riding that thing. But honestly I have so much more fun on these big bastards on the street than off-road. Out in the sticks you just brake shit and keep dreaming about that 2 stroke sitting home in the garage, and how much more fun it'd be. That's why I sold the Yammi for something more exciting, don't really care if it's "great off road" or just OK. I'll still take it there if I need to!

Just got mine yesterday. Loving it. The thing about adventure bikes is they are decent at everything and great at nothing. I think that's fair.

I have the same tail tidy. Riding in mud and rain splashes the passenger seat, back pack or back of your jacket. I'm gonna change it for one that sticks out further back.

On the market for one. Great video, thank you. Very honest and informative. Seems to me the pros outweigh the cons.

Great video I bought one last month.

wish it had tubeless.. we live offroad in the Mojave desert and punctures are a way of life... need to be able to plug and go and not take a whole wheel off the rim and mess with a tube...

What height are those handlebars? 12in 15in?

I once saw a guy on a 125 beat a 500 2 stroke in a drag race. There was also a guy on UA-cam who compared a T7 against a 90-100hp bmw or ktm, cant remember which but he was faster on the T7 on a timed 100m dirt track. So all these people that talk hp, dirt is a great equalizer. The CP2 is such an awesome motor with usable power. On a ride I did awhile back there was tricky little hill climb, 3 big ktms needed several attempts to get up. It was easy on the T7. When they were all at the top there was a big discussion on which traction control settings they were using and why they failed. I was sitting on the T7 and just smiled. Good review.

Get a chain guide, get the OEM ones, just put one on mine.

I agree with you. CT would be nice,but tubeless should be "must". Really can't see myself to change tube on way to work. 😊

I've got the nicecnc foot pegs and they are pretty tough...get you a rally raid rear spring 95nm and some stoltec drop in fork springs 75nm...you'll notice the difference...! around $300 all together shipping and all... it really helps it to be a 70/30 bike...after that a tusk bash plate, barkbusters and camel adv 1 finger clutch....it's a nice improvement ... rear bake is fine just get some new pads also from camel...pretty good review

"If you're gonna be Pol Tarres this isn't the bike for you"... Like, Pol Tarres does hard enduro on a T7 what are you talking about. 🤣🤣🤣

I think it's a beautiful bike, I just can't afford it.

check out a stock windscreen adjuster, cheaper and more practical

Thank you for the review. I am looking at the Honda 300 Rally but saw a Grey T7 look great. New rider her I am 6ft 3in 230lbs I am not full off-road but want do trails not rocks... I will go check on the T7...

I always thought the same about the tire pattern reminded me of the itp holeshots on sport quads

Corrections: 1. When i referenced BMW reliability, i was refering to KTM. 2. For the tidy tail, i have the ALT Rider rack mounted above the tail, not below it. This is why its slightly higher than the seat level.

How do you like the suspension? Is it much better??

Sitting purty

awesome bike i just picked a 04 wr450 up myself a few days ago when will you upload more on the wr?

Axle problem!

I have one it starts up fine idles great give it gas spit sputters dies what's your opinion

I’m not getting the noise but noticed the rear differential was getting extremely hot. Rear differential oil is Burt and only takes about 5 miles to burn new oil. It’s at the dealer now and they are into the transmission last I knew, if Yamaha is going to do something I hope they do it soon before I drop a few grand on it. I’m hoping Yamaha can produce a machine that can last more than 1000 miles. Side note, my brother in law has the same machine and had to have his main bearing replaced at 800 miles

What is the part number??

Do you have a link for this voltage regulator?

One way clutch bearing bad?

Having same problem on can am x3, what voltage regulator did you buy

bike looks sick, what handle bars are those

"Bike" means 2 wheels dimwit. That is a quad... Do you call a car a truck aswell?

I love the one i have its so fun to ride

I know what failed on the Yamaha REAR half shafts MAKING ALL THAT POPING AND BANGING, EVERYTHING! POOR DESIGN POSSIBLY POOR MATERIALS POOR TOLERANCES & POOR MACHINING/GRINDING Yamaha’s configuration: The outboard joint is ONLY a rzeppa joint, No axial travel at all. (not a bad thing) The inboard IS A MODIFIED RZEPPA, allowing axial travel. I have not seen another implementation of this type of joint, though I would bet $$$ that if it could be made to work reliably, GM would have done it. Guess which one is making the noise! Footnotes: If you are familiar with the GM rzeppa design, you know that the inner and outer ball races are arranged in a cross axes pattern, canted. This configuration helps keep the balls in a plane called the homokinetic plane. GM also uses a cage to work together with the canted ball races to ensure the bearings stay well aligned within the homokinetic plane. By doing this, the joint becomes a ROBUST TRUE CONSTANT VELOCITY which has a long life in use. GM did everything else right too. Half shafts need a swivel joint on each end and a means to accommodate length change. GM chose to use a rzeppa on the outboard swivel joint and use something different, which they call a TRIPOT for the inboard swivel joint. The trypot is not a true constant velocity joint AND it cannot handle the torques and amount of deflection that the rzeppa can, but it is good enough to handle the demands of the job as drive shaft deflection angles on the inboard end are not large and it also collapses to perform the length changing requirements AND THEY DO IT for an exceptionally long life. BACK TO THE YAMAHA DESIGN: The outboard rzeppa will do GREAT in this application for many thousands of miles in all conditions expected in the ATV’s provided the design is correct, i.e. High precision, preloaded correctly and well lubricated. Yamaha’s implementation remains unproven for me, only time will tell. For the inboard swivel joint that Yamaha came up with, and presumably the same as the other ATV manufactures, it’s a compromised rzeppa. The ball races are PARALLEL TO THE AXIS OF THE SHAFT. This modification allows the inner race to travel up and down the outer race accommodating the shaft length change function. The consequences of this adaptation: The baring cage alone must keep the balls from falling out and traveling within the homokinetic plane. Theoretically, this should/would be fine, but in at least this case I can say Yamaha’s bearing tolerances don’t even come close to that of GM’s. There is actually zero preload on the bearings! The outer races don’t appear to be as polished as the inners, only contacting on the edges of the race channels. Also, both inner and outer races have dimples made by the ball bearing contact, like they don’t have the required hardness. Probably needed soft materials to handle the dynamic loads created by the lash in the bearings alone. Footnote; The rzeppa joints that GM manufactures are among the tightest tolerance assemblies, ANYWHERE. Even exceeding the normal high precision bearing tolerances. Back to Yamaha, I personally don’t believe Yamaha’s design had a chance at long life. Relying on the bearing cage alone to keep the balls in the correct location and loose fitting bearings without proper preload coupled with soft materials guarantees early failure. THEY WERE NOT DRY as some people suggested online! Quite the contrary! I can apply enough torque with my hands while telescoping the joint to feel the coggy bearings. YOU CAN SEE THE DENTS IN THE RACES WHERE THEY HAVE BEEN RIDING. This application needs true rzeppa joints on each end and a telescoping spline pair between them to accommodate the length change. APPEARANTLY, NO MANUFACTURE IS WILLING TO SPEND THE MONEY. CONCLUSION: I CAN EXPECT TO CHANGE HALF SHAFTS AT LEAST EVERY 2000 MILES. (THE COMPONENTS ARE NOT INDIVIDUALLY AVAILABLE, SO….)

Got a link to your new Handlebars?

Dirty Diana Sounds good

Did you keep the stock rims and get bigger tires?

How do you like the light bar? great output?

Whats the difference between the ct100 and the ct100u

Nice! Do you still have it? How it holds up? Would you recommend it? I found a couple of these in sale with a pretty good price and I'm tempted to buy one now..