Gavin is as ever brilliant. He explains things well and has enthusiasm by the bucket load. I've had the pleasure of seeing him several times when he has lectured to Worcestershire Camera Club in the UK and there is never a dull or boring moment with him around.
Hi Gavin. When I got the motion blur at 1/4 of a second I thought you were going to demonstrate rear curtain/second curtain sync. I think some times you can have blur come to your advantage. Thank you for the demos and for using Flashpoint products in them. I purchased my R2 transmitter and receiver after watching one of your demos. Cheers!
Excellent illumination in itself, of flash and sync speed in a focal plane shutter case. It clarifies why my language calls a focal plane shutter "curtain shutter". The other one, leaf shutter, we call "central shutter" as it is centrally located in the lens. And the leaf shutter has no sync issue. Concepts for a FOLLOW-UP? Second curtain. High-speed sync versus hyper sync. Leaf shutters cutting off flash with fast exposures. ... And there is a general issue with focal plane and electronic shutters that we call "time parallax" in classical photography jargon. Already visible in pre-WW2 photos of race cars with oval wheels. And today reveals itself as rolling shutter (where nothing rolls like it did in old movie cameras). It illustrates how fully automatic cameras with lots of AI still may depend a lot on human intelligence, instead of artificial.
It couldn’t have come at a better time. I’m sitting here trying to find out why some settings are changing my exposure and some are not affecting it (read: shutter speed!) Then I take a break from it all and your video comes up on my UA-cam feed. Now I’m looking for the high-speed sync video. Many thanks.
Great explanation, even for me, who understands all the technical stuff in photo, I've learned few more things from this video. And the model, I really like Sophie, she is great!
hi Gavin, you are always the best and my inspiration. I like all of your videos. This one make me understand exactly how i have to use the flash right. I hope one day to become a fotographer ...a good one. All the best!
Flash duration is measured in thousandths of a second, which is much faster than the flash sync speed. Having the shutter open for 2 sec will not gather more light from the flash than a shutterspeed of 1/2 sec.
Brilliant as always Gavin.....can't wait for the next one...........really interested in the effect that HSS has whilst still maintaining ambient light from the Led's.I would also like to know how ND filters would work in the Studio in the same scenario.....hope you can help.
Thanks Sean, HSS in the studio is coming next. Spoiler alert... HSS in the studio is for removing ambient when shooting with really wide apertures OR keeping some ambient in the shot when shooting and freezing fast moving subjects with flash. So in this case both HSS flash and ND filters would have dimmed the led's down to almost zero.
Gavin, I'm a new photographer (almost 2 years) but I am a bit confused by one of your statements (bear with me here). I enjoy your videos and please continue the great educational work! That said, I try to pick battles wisely and I am going to try and get this right so you can improve my current understanding. Your comment was: "... because ISO and aperture will affect not only the ambient light but the flash that is recorded as well". I get it, but here's where my comprehension fails. Technically, I thought that ISO (not ASA) at all but native settings, boosts the signal/gain already recorded by the sensor. It does not not make the sensor more sensitive to light thereby changing the amount of ambient or flash recorded. It simply boosts the signal after the fact (processed signal). I do understand where you are coming from, but your comment made me sit up for a moment. So does ISO really affect the amount of ambient light or flash to be RECORDED, or simply boost the already recorded light signal from either source (ambient/flash) after the fact via the processor)? I know this sounds picky, but I am listening. Just shows you I'm still awake!
Working on a project at the moment Gavin and religiously checking back on your tutorials which are amazing i have to say...but was wondering if you could give any advice about lighting, not only a figure, but are am trying to incorporate large parts of the interior, at say F8 and upwards, but keeping the iso no more than 200 to 400 on account of the fact the images may be printed quite large....cheers again and always tune in to your work
Great video as usual. Question though. If I missed my flash sync by a little bit, and one side of an image has a dark band, is there an easy way to fix it? Like, the image isn't blank there, just darker. I didn't notice it during the shoot, and pretty much all the photos have it.
Gavin - my camera for portraits is my leica d lux 7 and in the manual it says my flash sync speed is 1/4000th sec - can it really be that fast on a 4/3rds camera? To remove the ambient light would i really have to set my shutter speed to 1/4000th?
The shutter speed won't affect the flash exposure, but won't a slow enough shutter speed cause the led or ambient lights to increase the exposure on the model's face?
will the short duration of the flash (on a low power setting) help your focus by freezing any movement even if the shutter speed is slow ? i would think so - might have been interesting to demonstrate that also ?
Always a great video Gavin!!! How about using a more mainstream camera though like a Nikon or Sony ? Not that it makes a difference really conceptually but it might be more interesting. Just a thought ! I so much like your videos. Direct and to the point. Bravo !
Hi Michael, thanks for the kind words. I'd love to hear and understand why the camera brand I use would make a difference to how interesting the videos would be for you. I'm not looking for an argument, just insight on our audience.
Of course !! I admit that the camera brand has nothing to do with the concepts you were discussing. Having said that , I think that perhaps on a subliminal level I think seeing a common brand that you use might draw a larger interest and numbers. Let’s say the video starts and the audience member sees a Nikon or a Sony being used. Oh. That’s my camera. Might draw a larger crowd. Again. Has no bearing on the concepts being discussed but it puts a ribbon on a nice video I suppose it’s a silly point really. Perhaps with a try though ??
i really like your work sir. i had learn many things from your tutorials but i have a question i have a manual flash then what should i do for getting this type of photo and i have nikon 5300 camera then i cant get low numbers of aperture then what should i do?
You might want to pick up some "Neutral Density" gels to put on your light to lower the output. You can make an ND filter by combining a CTO (color temperature Orange) gel with a CTB gel (color temperature Blue) if you already have them. I am assuming you are not able to lower the power of your light/flash settings any farther. Does that help?
I saw a video where the person said use your high speed sync but then when showed the photo his shutter was 1/2000. Now I am confused as I though your sync speed is 1/250 and not to go higher?
super tuto ! i have a d750 with 24-70 2.8. how would you modify your setup for F/2.8 ? more than 2 stops more. we can't reduce flash more than 1/256 power, you need 1/60th for ambiant led. should we double the distance flash-Sophie and perhaps add a grid to avoid spilling on black background ?
Let's say you were with me on that day (different set-ups will need different settings) with a f/2.8 lens. We would want to leave the shutter speed at 1/60th for reasons I demonstrated in the video, so the simplest solution would be to change the ISO from 400iso to 2000iso which is roughly 2 and a bit stops more sensitive to light. And as ISO affects both the amount of ambient AND flash recorded, there would be no need to alter the flash in any way.
thanks. don't you like doubling the distance of flash ? light too much spread on black background ? d750 can accept iso2000 but i think we could have noise in the eyes, always less good than iso 400.
hello, i looked again the video and noticed you increased iso by 1 stop (200-400) and exposure by 4 stops and a bit (5.6-1.2) but had too much light on sophie and reduce flash by 2 stops (1/64-1/256). so perhaps F2.8 and 1/64 flash power with 400 iso would make the job instead of iso 2000 with 1/256 flash power ?
Gavin, great video! I have a question, I saw the Godox trigger but what flash are you using? (sorry if you said it in the video) I'm new to all this and thought the Godox modeling lights did not shut off when the flash fired. It looked like yours did. Thanks and keep them coming!
Hi Pete. Each Jar had two strings of 20 LED's. So 40 LED's per jar but as they were super cheap strings, of the 20 strings I bought only 19 worked out of the box and by the end of the video only 17 were working!
Sounds like ambient light is being captured as well as flash (use a low ISO and/or smaller aperture) or you have a flash with a long duration. I used to have Elinchrom strobes that had a flash duration of less the 1/250th sec at some powers which proved useless when photographing kids in the studio!
That's a VERY old Lastolite background I picked up from a retiring photographer a looooong time ago. I gues it's about 2.5m x 2.5m square... or 8 feet by 8 feet ;)
The modelling light on the flash helps, there's also the focus assist beam (although I don't use that. Worst case scenario, there's always the flash light on your phone!
@@GavinHoey oh yes i know i am more about on-location shooting. Look forward to it i have shared this video on my facebook group as i have quite a few newbies on there so your videos are very helpful to them saves me making them :P . check out my channel if you ever have time :) , followed you for a long time you have been to many of my localish locations which is awesome to see someone elses views on places i know well. have a good evening. :)
Never cease to amaze with something so simple, I've taken a lot from this and shall be applying this technique when I get the strobes out again. P.s was your background the one from the photography show (Pixapro) stand... I'm going to buy a bigger version this next show.
I enjoy all your tutorials, but in this one, as so many tutorials demonstrate, the 1/250 sec on your camera is "your" flash sync. In fact, ANY shutter speed slower than 1/250 sec is also a "flash sync." I think it would be more prudent on the part of an instructor to refer to, in your case, 1/250 sec as the camera's MAXIMUM flash sync, or "fastest" flash sync. Otherwise, just calling 1/250 sec your camera's "flash sync" implies that that is the appropriate speed to use with flash. As you show in this video, other speeds can be used to increase ambient light when so desired.
Gavin! The master at explaining things I confuse beginners with!!
Exactly what I thought!
Gavin is as ever brilliant. He explains things well and has enthusiasm by the bucket load. I've had the pleasure of seeing him several times when he has lectured to Worcestershire Camera Club in the UK and there is never a dull or boring moment with him around.
Its very difficult to explain huge topic in a short video
Man... You are the best!
This is a topic that is usually not explained well - congrats on making a video that does it pretty much perfectly.
I was really confused about how ligth is affected by Iso/aperture /shutter, and this let me done.. Thanks for your support and time to teach us..
Great lesson Gavin! Plug in a flash to a camera and most people have NO CLUE on what to do!! You explain things so everyone can learn!!
the best UA-cam tutor for explaining the tips and light setup for making the pic so cool
Gavin, your videos are really easy to follow, and they are well explained where someone can follow at home to practice along. thank-you!
Thanks Clark 😊
awesome video, the concept for this shoot was amazing
very good. Gavin is great teacher. Adorama tv is fantastic.
Nice to see the dedication you put to make the explanation simple and clear.
The MOST Important chapter .... so easily and well explained. Thanks a ton!
Hi Gavin. When I got the motion blur at 1/4 of a second I thought you were going to demonstrate rear curtain/second curtain sync.
I think some times you can have blur come to your advantage.
Thank you for the demos and for using Flashpoint products in them.
I purchased my R2 transmitter and receiver after watching one of your demos.
Cheers!
Excellent illumination in itself, of flash and sync speed in a focal plane shutter case. It clarifies why my language calls a focal plane shutter "curtain shutter". The other one, leaf shutter, we call "central shutter" as it is centrally located in the lens. And the leaf shutter has no sync issue. Concepts for a FOLLOW-UP? Second curtain. High-speed sync versus hyper sync. Leaf shutters cutting off flash with fast exposures. ... And there is a general issue with focal plane and electronic shutters that we call "time parallax" in classical photography jargon. Already visible in pre-WW2 photos of race cars with oval wheels. And today reveals itself as rolling shutter (where nothing rolls like it did in old movie cameras).
It illustrates how fully automatic cameras with lots of AI still may depend a lot on human intelligence, instead of artificial.
As always, simplifying what can be a confusing subject. Thanks Gav.
Great explainer on the relationship between the camera settings and flash!
EXCELLENT VIDEO GAVIN! I JUST BOUGHT A NEW SPEED LIGHT & THIS HELPED OUT TREMENDOUSLY!!
Always entertaining, Gavin! Excellent tutorial.
Thanks, Gavin. Very easy to understand of course, and very nice results. (Sophie's skin looks amazing.) Well done!
Thanks Mike. Sophie is amazing, she's also a brilliant MUA.
@@GavinHoey Excellent!
Thank you Gavin for a very informative video. And for bringing back, Sophie.
You are the man Gavin, thank you for your very helpful videos.
I 2nd that. Always enjoy you content.
Thanks for the kind words guys :)
Nice lesson and pictures Gavin, thx
gavin you are always my inspiration.. thank you for your wonderful tutorials
It couldn’t have come at a better time. I’m sitting here trying to find out why some settings are changing my exposure and some are not affecting it (read: shutter speed!) Then I take a break from it all and your video comes up on my UA-cam feed. Now I’m looking for the high-speed sync video. Many thanks.
Glad it helped. Watch this space for HSS tips ;)
Another gem from GH. Thank you!
Great explanation Gavin, always educational and entertaining 😊
Cheers Gavin upbeat and informative as ever. Just how many sets of fairy lights do you own?
Great explanation, even for me, who understands all the technical stuff in photo, I've learned few more things from this video. And the model, I really like Sophie, she is great!
More of Sophie please. Great example and helped me a lot in my HSS projects. Thanks Gav'
Awesome! Great explanation!
You are the BEST, really you make things so simple.
You ad clarity to the photos and my knoeledge!
Thanks!
I always wait for the video to end because in every video I see your creativity on Subscribe button. great video again.
Thanks. I put waaaaaay to much effort into those subscribe buttons!
Thanks mate. Fun, informative, and straight forward.
hi Gavin, you are always the best and my inspiration. I like all of your videos. This one make me understand exactly how i have to use the flash right. I hope one day to become a fotographer ...a good one. All the best!
I’d love for you to dive deeper into what you said about shutter speed not impacting the perceived flash brightness. I’d never heard that before.
Thanks Conor. Shutter speed not effecting flash power sounds mad but I strongly suggest you test it for yourself, it's a great way to learn :)
Flash duration is measured in thousandths of a second, which is much faster than the flash sync speed. Having the shutter open for 2 sec will not gather more light from the flash than a shutterspeed of 1/2 sec.
Brilliant as always Gavin.....can't wait for the next one...........really interested in the effect that HSS has whilst still maintaining ambient light from the Led's.I would also like to know how ND filters would work in the Studio in the same scenario.....hope you can help.
Thanks Sean, HSS in the studio is coming next. Spoiler alert... HSS in the studio is for removing ambient when shooting with really wide apertures OR keeping some ambient in the shot when shooting and freezing fast moving subjects with flash. So in this case both HSS flash and ND filters would have dimmed the led's down to almost zero.
Thanks Gavin, it was very informative.
Always interesting. Your explainations are clear and results well showned. Thanks Pierre Chénier Montréal, Québec,
Thanks Gavin, your's videos are every helpful
Great explanation, very useful video
Love your videos, very informative.
Gavin, I'm a new photographer (almost 2 years) but I am a bit confused by one of your statements (bear with me here). I enjoy your videos and please continue the great educational work! That said, I try to pick battles wisely and I am going to try and get this right so you can improve my current understanding. Your comment was: "... because ISO and aperture will affect not only the ambient light but the flash that is recorded as well". I get it, but here's where my comprehension fails. Technically, I thought that ISO (not ASA) at all but native settings, boosts the signal/gain already recorded by the sensor. It does not not make the sensor more sensitive to light thereby changing the amount of ambient or flash recorded. It simply boosts the signal after the fact (processed signal). I do understand where you are coming from, but your comment made me sit up for a moment. So does ISO really affect the amount of ambient light or flash to be RECORDED, or simply boost the already recorded light signal from either source (ambient/flash) after the fact via the processor)? I know this sounds picky, but I am listening. Just shows you I'm still awake!
And right there is the difference between us. You keep focusing on the technical, I'll focus on the aesthetics 😉
Working on a project at the moment Gavin and religiously checking back on your tutorials which are amazing i have to say...but was wondering if you could give any advice about lighting, not only a figure, but are am trying to incorporate large parts of the interior, at say F8 and upwards, but keeping the iso no more than 200 to 400 on account of the fact the images may be printed quite large....cheers again and always tune in to your work
Great video as usual. Question though. If I missed my flash sync by a little bit, and one side of an image has a dark band, is there an easy way to fix it? Like, the image isn't blank there, just darker. I didn't notice it during the shoot, and pretty much all the photos have it.
Excellent as always..
Great video as always.
Great content Sir
Great content as usual!
You are a magician....thanks for sharing
Love this guy’s tutorials!
Gavin - my camera for portraits is my leica d lux 7 and in the manual it says my flash sync speed is 1/4000th sec - can it really be that fast on a 4/3rds camera? To remove the ambient light would i really have to set my shutter speed to 1/4000th?
i have trouble practicing model photography because i don't have a subject to shoot. do you recommend anything i could shoot at.
The shutter speed won't affect the flash exposure, but won't a slow enough shutter speed cause the led or ambient lights to increase the exposure on the model's face?
Thanks! Great video!! Merry christmas!!
will the short duration of the flash (on a low power setting) help your focus by freezing any movement even if the shutter speed is slow ? i would think so
- might have been interesting to demonstrate that also ?
Great stuff👍👍 What about High Speed synch in a small studio?
Check out 7:20 and check back for my next video 😉
Always a great video Gavin!!! How about using a more mainstream camera though like a Nikon or Sony ? Not that it makes a difference really conceptually but it might be more interesting. Just a thought ! I so much like your videos. Direct and to the point. Bravo !
Hi Michael, thanks for the kind words. I'd love to hear and understand why the camera brand I use would make a difference to how interesting the videos would be for you. I'm not looking for an argument, just insight on our audience.
Of course !! I admit that the camera brand has nothing to do with the concepts you were discussing. Having said that , I think that perhaps on a subliminal level I think seeing a common brand that you use might draw a larger interest and numbers. Let’s say the video starts and the audience member sees a Nikon or a Sony being used. Oh. That’s my camera. Might draw a larger crowd. Again. Has no bearing on the concepts being discussed but it puts a ribbon on a nice video I suppose it’s a silly point really. Perhaps with a try though ??
Ps. Gavin just so we are clear I think your videos are the best !! As soon as they come out I’m right there looking at them. Keep up the good work.
Excellent as always! :)
i really like your work sir. i had learn many things from your tutorials but i have a question i have a manual flash then what should i do for getting this type of photo and i have nikon 5300 camera then i cant get low numbers of aperture then what should i do?
You might want to pick up some "Neutral Density" gels to put on your light to lower the output.
You can make an ND filter by combining a CTO (color temperature Orange) gel with a CTB gel (color temperature Blue) if you already have them.
I am assuming you are not able to lower the power of your light/flash settings any farther.
Does that help?
*good job sir*
I saw a video where the person said use your high speed sync but then when showed the photo his shutter was 1/2000. Now I am confused as I though your sync speed is 1/250 and not to go higher?
super tuto ! i have a d750 with 24-70 2.8. how would you modify your setup for F/2.8 ? more than 2 stops more. we can't reduce flash more than 1/256 power, you need 1/60th for ambiant led.
should we double the distance flash-Sophie and perhaps add a grid to avoid spilling on black background ?
Let's say you were with me on that day (different set-ups will need different settings) with a f/2.8 lens. We would want to leave the shutter speed at 1/60th for reasons I demonstrated in the video, so the simplest solution would be to change the ISO from 400iso to 2000iso which is roughly 2 and a bit stops more sensitive to light. And as ISO affects both the amount of ambient AND flash recorded, there would be no need to alter the flash in any way.
thanks. don't you like doubling the distance of flash ? light too much spread on black background ? d750 can accept iso2000 but i think we could have noise in the eyes, always less good than iso 400.
hello, i looked again the video and noticed you increased iso by 1 stop (200-400) and exposure by 4 stops and a bit (5.6-1.2) but had too much light on sophie and reduce flash by 2 stops (1/64-1/256). so perhaps F2.8 and 1/64 flash power with 400 iso would make the job instead of iso 2000 with 1/256 flash power ?
how did you set up the hanging of the led lights. Definitely a great idea
I used hooks in the ceiling holding a couple of old curtain poles and background support rods. The jars were tied on with paracord.
Superb !!!!
Hello dear. How can i get a background like the one you used? Thanks
Gavin, great video! I have a question, I saw the Godox trigger but what flash are you using? (sorry if you said it in the video) I'm new to all this and thought the Godox modeling lights did not shut off when the flash fired. It looked like yours did. Thanks and keep them coming!
I'm using the Flashpoint XPLOR400 here (link to more info is in the video description) and yes, the modelling light does shut off during the flash.
Always the best
Thanks a lot. You’re using TTL for the flash. Right? If it’s manual flash, do you change the manual flash power first before changing other settings?
Manual flash all the way. I did what you see in the video... Figure out the ambient exposure, add flash to match
@@GavinHoey Thank you very much.
so instead of lowering flash you could also move shutter up to 125-250?
No. Adjusting the shutter speed will NOT effect the flash power. Shutter speed is all about how much ambient is recorded 3:53 shows this in action.
You rock like always
wow great video
Superb!
Muito bom. Thanks
Nice images!
can we do the same with a westcott rapidbox 66cm and sb900 ?
Yes 👍
How many strands per jar did you use? Or how many feet of LEDs per jar?
Hi Pete. Each Jar had two strings of 20 LED's. So 40 LED's per jar but as they were super cheap strings, of the 20 strings I bought only 19 worked out of the box and by the end of the video only 17 were working!
Thanks Gavin!
Great video nice
when i use flash my photos are sometimes not sharp even at 1/200 is this a flash thing also do you use frequency separation on your photos
Sounds like ambient light is being captured as well as flash (use a low ISO and/or smaller aperture) or you have a flash with a long duration. I used to have Elinchrom strobes that had a flash duration of less the 1/250th sec at some powers which proved useless when photographing kids in the studio!
@@GavinHoey thank you for your reply :)
Good Video!!!!!
Hello. What size is that portable backdrop
That's a VERY old Lastolite background I picked up from a retiring photographer a looooong time ago. I gues it's about 2.5m x 2.5m square... or 8 feet by 8 feet ;)
Which trigger anf Flash do u used here??
Both flash and trigger are Flashpoint. There's a link to the flash in the video description ;)
But how do you focus in total darkness.?
The modelling light on the flash helps, there's also the focus assist beam (although I don't use that. Worst case scenario, there's always the flash light on your phone!
Pretty model
How big is your studio in meters
Roughly 8x4 meters. More info about my studio here scottkelby.com/guest-blog-wednesday-featuring-gavin-hoey
love shooting hss upto 1/8000s with flash.
HSS at 1/8000th wouldn't have helped much in this case Stuart but check back next week when I've got you covered 😉
@@GavinHoey oh yes i know i am more about on-location shooting. Look forward to it i have shared this video on my facebook group as i have quite a few newbies on there so your videos are very helpful to them saves me making them :P . check out my channel if you ever have time :) , followed you for a long time you have been to many of my localish locations which is awesome to see someone elses views on places i know well. have a good evening. :)
Never cease to amaze with something so simple, I've taken a lot from this and shall be applying this technique when I get the strobes out again.
P.s was your background the one from the photography show (Pixapro) stand... I'm going to buy a bigger version this next show.
Thanks Matt. The background is similar to the one you saw but is actually an old Lastolite collapsible which I got second hand a long time ago.
Nice video.\
Obviously with my Fuji X100T has a leaf shutter and I can synchronised at over S4000 😀
My nikon d70 can sync at any speed when using sync cable :)
@@yamint I think you will find that is 1/500 sec
@@chazM6116 Nope. If you use a basic pc sync cable you can sync at stupid speeds with the D70, way above 1/500 sec.
What Is the Exact Size of Your Home Studio??
Exact is... It varies depending on how much "gear" is hidden out of shot 😉Rough size is about 13' x 26'
I enjoy all your tutorials, but in this one, as so many tutorials demonstrate, the 1/250 sec on your camera is "your" flash sync. In fact, ANY shutter speed slower than 1/250 sec is also a "flash sync." I think it would be more prudent on the part of an instructor to refer to, in your case, 1/250 sec as the camera's MAXIMUM flash sync, or "fastest" flash sync. Otherwise, just calling 1/250 sec your camera's "flash sync" implies that that is the appropriate speed to use with flash. As you show in this video, other speeds can be used to increase ambient light when so desired.
Wov
NOOOOO, DON'T MAKE SOPHIE DISAPPEAR!
The more Sophie the better :)
Great instructional video!! Thank you. Also a great bit of music plays at the 6:12 mark - what is it? Care to share?
Great tutorial!! Explained a lot to me