I’ve watched 4 video and none of them told me what happens when you need a new one...but within one min of watching this my question had been answered!
Very smart. Any other mechanic would have stared at the vvt solenoid and guessed it was bad and then replaced it, shut the hood, and charged you, all for a guess in the wind. Nice job guys. Thanks for the video
Saw the golden spanner award under the clock and was impressed. Having a similar Twin VCT (cam phasers) and Twin OCV solenoids drama at present , bent one brand new inlet and the other 11 left their name and address on the valve cutouts on the pistons. Your close-up of the Multimeter was brilliant with the Ohms and the needle on 200 clear as day , this is the educational part that sells these Videos. Thanks for the Video and hope you had good luck with that bare wire hunt.
Excellent video, and a great diagnosis from a quality automotive technician. Don’t throw parts at codes people! Follow the flow chart, learn how to use a multimeter before you replace any sensor in a vehicle.
BIG TAKE AWAY HERE IS GET YOUR OIL CHANGED ON TIME. I RAN INTO ISSUES WITH A VVT AFTER USING LUCUS OIL STABILIZER ON A USED 4 CYL KIA. ADDITIVES AND SNAKE OILS USUALLY CAUSE MORE PROBLEMS THEN THEY FIX. AND IN THIS CASE THE LUCAS IS THICK AND MIXED WITH SOME SLUDGE BLOCKED UP THOSE SCREENS IN LIKE AN HOUR OF RUN TIME.
Would be nice to explain symptoms of exhaust solenoid, too. I had faulty one on the intake side and its error I found with a scanner and there was no dashboard light on.
Crank angle sensor does the same and don't always trigger a code. Start the car and tap it with a screw driver if the car farts around its your problem. Even if your on a rough road it could cause the car to stall
Anyone remember 2002 Buick Century wiring fun? They must have had left over harnesses from those and put them in newer car models. What a cost savings!
He said the resistance should be Zero...but he ment, it should be infinity!!! LOL meanwhile..yes, I have to watch their videos because I know they know way more about this sht than I do 👍 Thanks for the video and the explanation of the sensor.
Question: does a p0015 code on a Nissan Versa 2016 mean that the car is pretty much screwed up? A mechanic told me to not spend any money to fix it as it was “an issue with the transmission” and that it would cost thousands to fix it. However, looking at comments online, it seems like it should be a relatively simple fix?
you made this so easy to understand. I was reading live data and i saw vvt 2 FAIL. any pointers or tips for what to check? i have an 07 mercedes s550 misfiring in 7 of the 8 cylinders. all new injectors, spark plugs, ignition coils, new MAF sensor, new air filters. i tested the crankshaft and camshaft and theyre both perfect. any ideas?
What about oil leaking occurring.... my vvt is being replaced as this was seen as a symptom? My car seemed to run fine. Oil changed every 10k. No check light error
So I’m having trouble with vvt solenoid 2002 Lexus rx300 , bank 2 missfire 2,4, 6, and scanner shows bank1 vvt working , bank 2 vvt dead as door nail on graphs, probed wiring from pigtail running getting 14 volts on ground wire and 12 volts on the positive wire with vehicle running with test light that has voltage readout should I use multimeter instead of going off the battery with that tester ? how should I go about diagnostic from here I’m a intermediate level mechanic, this is my personal vehicle ,
Is there a code for the vvt solenoid? You mention cylinder misfires. There are a few things that can cause that code. If you remove the vvt solenoid and bech test it as we mention in the video you will have an easy starting point. If you have no codes for it though... you are likely dealing with a different issue. Hope this helps.
@@UrbanAutomotive01 no codes just p0300 02 04 and 6, new solenoid, clean screan, scanner shows bank 1 wave active no bank 2 vvt??? new plugs , good spark, getting fuel, its like the CEL flashing cus cam isnt changing the intake valves advancing or retarding cus no vvt, therefor too little air, too much fuel, not being burnt perfectly, dumping into o2 and cat.i dont know how go about this besides check power on vvt bank 2 plug?? what else should i check the symptoms are pretty clear whole bank is missing no vvt active, if ecu doesnt have good signal should i suspect wiring ecu or cam/crank sensor?? i dont know yet what else to look at besides vvt cus its not working at all???
Can you guys please tell me the recommended resistance fir the solenoid? My 2013 fusion is throwing a 0012 code and jt points to the solenoid but would be nice to know what to look for before i tear the valve cover off. Thank you!
Could you please help me understand why every time I type in "oil control valve replacement" It takes me to a video like yours. Which is the variable valve technology timing solenoid ?
Sure, I can help clarify that for you. The "oil control valve" and the "variable valve timing (VVT) solenoid" are often terms used interchangeably because they refer to components that serve a similar function in modern engines with variable valve timing systems. Oil Control Valve (OCV) The Oil Control Valve is a crucial part of the variable valve timing system. Its primary role is to control the flow of oil to the VVT system. This valve adjusts the position of the camshafts, which in turn optimizes the timing of the intake and exhaust valves for various engine operating conditions. The OCV ensures that the right amount of oil reaches the VVT system at the right time. Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid The Variable Valve Timing Solenoid, also known as the VVT solenoid or camshaft position actuator solenoid, is responsible for directing the oil flow to different parts of the VVT system based on the engine's requirements. When the engine control unit (ECU) sends a signal, the VVT solenoid adjusts the camshaft position, which alters the timing of the valve opening and closing events to improve performance, fuel efficiency, and emissions. Why do You See Videos for VVT Solenoid Replacement? When you search for "oil control valve replacement," you often get videos for "variable valve timing solenoid replacement" because they are essentially discussing the same component. The terminology can vary between different manufacturers and mechanics, but the function remains the same: controlling the timing of the engine's valves by managing the flow of oil. Function: Both the Oil Control Valve and the VVT Solenoid are designed to manage oil flow to the camshaft for variable valve timing. Location: They are usually located near the camshaft or timing chain area of the engine. Symptoms of Failure: Common symptoms include rough idling, poor fuel economy, decreased engine performance, and the illumination of the check engine light. The confusion often arises due to the different terms used to describe the same or similar parts. Both the Oil Control Valve and the VVT Solenoid play vital roles in ensuring the engine runs efficiently by optimizing valve timing. When searching for replacement guides, you'll find that videos and articles for "VVT solenoid replacement" will provide the information you need for "oil control valve replacement" as well. Hope this helps clarify. Like our Videos? Check out Mikes Book: CAD Link: www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CFCLSHDY Use these if you are outside Canada. USA Link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0CFCLSHDY UK Link: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CFCLSHDY AUS Link: www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0CFCLSHDY
@UrbanAutomotive01 Wow! Thank you for such a detailed explanation. Is it safe to drive your car for a week or two when the check engine light came on and this is the problem ?
@@theseattlegreen1871 While it might be safe to drive for a very short period with a check engine light due to a VVT solenoid or OCV issue, it's not advisable to extend this beyond what is absolutely necessary. The longer you drive with the problem, the higher the risk of causing more significant damage to your engine. Scheduling a prompt repair is the best course of action to ensure your vehicle's longevity and performance. Good luck.
hello friend, why do you think in my Hemi 5.7 2010, when mds is turned on and in eco mode, a crackling sound comes from the engine, as soon as you give gas everything is fine and quiet at idle, it’s also quiet, I don’t know where to climb, I changed the mds solenoids, the vvt solenoid did not change . any thoughts on what to do?
Hello! It sounds like you're experiencing a somewhat complex issue. The Multi-Displacement System (MDS) in your Hemi 5.7 2010 is designed to deactivate cylinders when they're not needed to save fuel. However, if you're hearing a crackling sound when MDS is turned on and in eco mode, there could be a few potential causes. 1. **MDS Solenoids**: You mentioned that you've already replaced the MDS solenoids, but it's worth noting that faulty solenoids can cause this issue. If the new solenoids are not functioning correctly, they could be the source of the problem. 2. **Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid**: The VVT solenoid controls the flow of oil to the VVT system and adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves. If it's not functioning correctly, it could cause abnormal noises. You mentioned that you haven't changed this yet, so it might be worth considering. 3. **Lifter Issues**: The lifters in your engine could be causing the noise. When the MDS is engaged, the lifters for the deactivated cylinders are supposed to collapse and stop moving. If they're not collapsing properly, they could be causing the crackling sound. 4. **Oil Pressure or Quality**: The MDS system relies on proper oil pressure to function. If the oil pressure is too low, or if the oil is old or of poor quality, the MDS system might not work correctly, leading to abnormal noises. 5. **Exhaust System**: Sometimes, the sound could be coming from the exhaust system. A leak or crack in the exhaust system can cause a crackling sound, especially when the engine load changes (like when the MDS system activates or deactivates). Given these possibilities, here are a few steps you could take: - **Check the oil**: Make sure the oil level is correct, and consider changing the oil if it's old or of poor quality. - **Check the VVT solenoid**: Since you haven't replaced this yet, it might be worth checking. - **Check the lifters**: If possible, have a mechanic check the lifters to see if they're functioning correctly. - **Check the exhaust system**: Look for any signs of leaks or damage. Remember, it's always a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic if you're unsure. They can help diagnose and fix the problem.
I just got my 03 passat 6cyl. vvt chsnged & the car still wont start, sure it sounds like it wants to start even changed the camsensor, again cause thats the code it came up w after the vvt change still no start. Cant find any wires pinched or frayed etc. so im stumped. I did put injector cleaner in it twice in 1 month before the issue of rough running before next day it just wouldnt start. ..& the gas tank is low but not on empty. So i was thinking fuel filter was bad. But no one has looked at that for verification they just used a code reader & changed what codes it said but luck
I replaced the Variable Timing Solenoid on my 2006 Honda Accord, but the engine shuts off when I plug it in. It runs fine when it's unplugged, and the old solenoid was causing the same issue. Please help
I went past the recommend miles between oil changes and a sludge build up on my 2017 Nissan Pathfinder. I’ve since changed the oil several times but the check engine signals a camshaft issue and I have a knocking sound. Would that be a symptom of a bad camshaft actuator?
Great question. In the case of this vehicle the new harness was not an option do to availability. A used harness would risk having the same or possibly more issues. We sourced the problem within an hour and the vehicle continues to be symptom free 3 years after completing this repair video 😉 Thanks for watching 👀
Can this effect the way it shifts and does it cause the car to jerk because every time I get it scanned it just shows the camshaft timing (VCT) system code P0012 I don’t get any transmission codes on it very confusing
Please help me I've been searching for a VVT actuator assembly for my 2005 Chevy Colorado and I can't find it anywhere. IT has been discontinued by GM and I can't seem to get it anywhere else. I've been without my truck for months now and I am about ready to pull my hair out. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I drove my car with p0011 p0014 on the computer I drove it for 20 miles and the car stalls and its crank no start now , now I have 3 more codes besides p0011 p0014 they are p0340 p0030 p0299 . 2003 volvo xc90 2.9l , are p0011 p0014 cause crank no start ? Note I changed the crankshaft sensor and 2 camshaft sensors . Please help .😢
The codes you've mentioned are related to different systems in your vehicle, and they could potentially cause a crank-no-start condition. Here's a brief explanation of each: - **P0011**: "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1). This code indicates that the ECM has detected the camshaft timing on bank 1 is more advanced than it was instructed to be. This could be due to a faulty camshaft adjuster, camshaft sensor, or timing chain/belt. - **P0014**: "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1). Similar to P0011, but this code relates to the exhaust camshaft. - **P0340**: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor). This code indicates a problem with the camshaft position sensor circuit, which could be due to a faulty sensor, wiring, or ECM. - **P0030**: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1). This code indicates a problem with the oxygen sensor heater circuit, which could be due to a faulty oxygen sensor, wiring, or ECM. - **P0299**: Turbocharger/Supercharger "A" Underboost Condition. This code indicates that the ECM has detected that the turbocharger or supercharger is not providing the required boost level. This could be due to a variety of issues, including a faulty turbocharger, wastegate, boost sensor, or related hoses/pipes. Given these codes, it's possible that the P0011 and P0014 codes could cause a crank-no-start condition, especially if the camshaft timing is significantly off. However, the P0340 code could also cause this issue, as the ECM relies on the camshaft position sensor to determine when to fire the spark plugs. Since you've already replaced the crankshaft sensor and two camshaft sensors, here are a few other things you might want to check: - **Timing chain/belt**: If the timing chain or belt has jumped a tooth, it could cause the P0011 and P0014 codes and potentially lead to a crank-no-start condition. - **Wiring and connectors**: Check the wiring and connectors associated with the camshaft position sensors and the oxygen sensor. Look for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. - **Turbocharger system**: Given the P0299 code, you might want to check the turbocharger system. Look for any signs of leaks, damage, or blockages. - **Oxygen sensor**: The P0030 code suggests there might be a problem with the oxygen sensor (specifically, the heater circuit). You might want to check this sensor and its wiring. As always, it's a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic if you're unsure. They can help diagnose and fix the problem.
I have a question. I have a 2015 dodge dart aero multiair 1.4. Last week it threw code P106A then engine light turned off. Now, 8 days later, check engine light came on, loss of power ( acceleration) 6k rpm I was going about 32mph only. Took it in, and auto shop said it's not showing any codes??. They reset check engine light, and still no power and no check engine light. Please any help would be appreciated!!
I had a manifold gasket changed recently. It was brittle and some fell in to the system. 1997 hevy Express, 1500, the oil was changed, recently, but do you think the solenoid should be checked ? Any recommendations?
Sorry for the late response... If pieces of the old, brittle manifold gasket fell into the system during replacement, there's a chance they could have caused some issues. These pieces could potentially block oil passages or get stuck in various components, affecting their operation. The solenoid you're referring to might be the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoid, which controls the flow of oil to the VVT system and adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves. If a piece of the gasket got stuck in the VVT solenoid, it could potentially affect its operation. Here are a few steps you might want to consider: 1. **Check for error codes**: If the VVT solenoid or any other component is not functioning correctly, your vehicle's computer might have stored an error code. You can use an OBD-II scanner to check for any codes. 2. **Check the VVT solenoid**: If you're experiencing issues that could be related to the VVT system (such as rough idling, reduced fuel efficiency, or difficulty starting the engine), it might be worth checking the VVT solenoid. 3. **Flush the oil system**: If pieces of the gasket fell into the system, an oil system flush might help remove them. This process involves running a special cleaning solution through the oil system to remove any debris. However, this should be done carefully to avoid causing further issues. 4. **Inspect other components**: Depending on where the gasket pieces fell, they could potentially affect other components. If you're experiencing any specific symptoms, it might be worth inspecting the related components. As always, it's a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic if you're unsure. They can help diagnose and fix the problem.
I’ve watched 4 video and none of them told me what happens when you need a new one...but within one min of watching this my question had been answered!
Very smart. Any other mechanic would have stared at the vvt solenoid and guessed it was bad and then replaced it, shut the hood, and charged you, all for a guess in the wind. Nice job guys. Thanks for the video
Saw the golden spanner award under the clock and was impressed. Having a similar Twin VCT (cam phasers) and Twin OCV solenoids drama at present , bent one brand new inlet and the other 11 left their name and address on the valve cutouts on the pistons.
Your close-up of the Multimeter was brilliant with the Ohms and the needle on 200 clear as day , this is the educational part that sells these Videos.
Thanks for the Video and hope you had good luck with that bare wire hunt.
Excellent video, and a great diagnosis from a quality automotive technician. Don’t throw parts at codes people! Follow the flow chart, learn how to use a multimeter before you replace any sensor in a vehicle.
Love you guys going back and forth. Wish I had help like you guys do!!!!!
Thank you v much for your asking questions it keeps things structured
The camera man is a genius 😂😂 zesty!, but a genius 😂😂😂🤦🏽♂️
BIG TAKE AWAY HERE IS GET YOUR OIL CHANGED ON TIME. I RAN INTO ISSUES WITH A VVT AFTER USING LUCUS OIL STABILIZER ON A USED 4 CYL KIA. ADDITIVES AND SNAKE OILS USUALLY CAUSE MORE PROBLEMS THEN THEY FIX. AND IN THIS CASE THE LUCAS IS THICK AND MIXED WITH SOME SLUDGE BLOCKED UP THOSE SCREENS IN LIKE AN HOUR OF RUN TIME.
Ya, but the issue with this vehicle was a few wires.
Would be nice to explain symptoms of exhaust solenoid, too. I had faulty one on the intake side and its error I found with a scanner and there was no dashboard light on.
The hype man of mechanics 😂😂
EXACTLY !!!!!! 😉
Love it
Crank angle sensor does the same and don't always trigger a code. Start the car and tap it with a screw driver if the car farts around its your problem. Even if your on a rough road it could cause the car to stall
Tap where with a screw driver?
Anyone remember 2002 Buick Century wiring fun? They must have had left over harnesses from those and put them in newer car models. What a cost savings!
He said the resistance should be Zero...but he ment, it should be infinity!!!
LOL meanwhile..yes, I have to watch their videos because I know they know way more about this sht than I do 👍
Thanks for the video and the explanation of the sensor.
Pick up the God Dame Phone ringing inn back ground... 😆 🤣 😂 😹
Thanks for watching. It's true... lol
Question: does a p0015 code on a Nissan Versa 2016 mean that the car is pretty much screwed up? A mechanic told me to not spend any money to fix it as it was “an issue with the transmission” and that it would cost thousands to fix it.
However, looking at comments online, it seems like it should be a relatively simple fix?
thanks for Sharing!!!!
Guy recording needed to be quiet while his buddy tries to talk lol
When did he talk about the symptoms
you made this so easy to understand. I was reading live data and i saw vvt 2 FAIL. any pointers or tips for what to check? i have an 07 mercedes s550 misfiring in 7 of the 8 cylinders. all new injectors, spark plugs, ignition coils, new MAF sensor, new air filters. i tested the crankshaft and camshaft and theyre both perfect. any ideas?
The title said "symptoms of bad of Valve Timing Control Unit", these have not been mentioned.
Points are mentioned in the video along with showing the component and the cause of failure.
Thank you for watching.
The vvt sensor on the 2007 LT 3400 Equinox has its place in the engine
Great job
I should’ve known it was a Chevy too 😞
What about oil leaking occurring.... my vvt is being replaced as this was seen as a symptom? My car seemed to run fine. Oil changed every 10k. No check light error
So I’m having trouble with vvt solenoid 2002 Lexus rx300 , bank 2 missfire 2,4, 6, and scanner shows bank1 vvt working , bank 2 vvt dead as door nail on graphs, probed wiring from pigtail running getting 14 volts on ground wire and 12 volts on the positive wire with vehicle running with test light that has voltage readout should I use multimeter instead of going off the battery with that tester ? how should I go about diagnostic from here I’m a intermediate level mechanic, this is my personal vehicle ,
Is there a code for the vvt solenoid? You mention cylinder misfires. There are a few things that can cause that code. If you remove the vvt solenoid and bech test it as we mention in the video you will have an easy starting point. If you have no codes for it though... you are likely dealing with a different issue. Hope this helps.
@@UrbanAutomotive01 no codes just p0300 02 04 and 6, new solenoid, clean screan, scanner shows bank 1 wave active no bank 2 vvt??? new plugs , good spark, getting fuel, its like the CEL flashing cus cam isnt changing the intake valves advancing or retarding cus no vvt, therefor too little air, too much fuel, not being burnt perfectly, dumping into o2 and cat.i dont know how go about this besides check power on vvt bank 2 plug?? what else should i check the symptoms are pretty clear whole bank is missing no vvt active, if ecu doesnt have good signal should i suspect wiring ecu or cam/crank sensor?? i dont know yet what else to look at besides vvt cus its not working at all???
@bestblackoutvideos u figure it out? Having the same problem
Can you guys please tell me the recommended resistance fir the solenoid? My 2013 fusion is throwing a 0012 code and jt points to the solenoid but would be nice to know what to look for before i tear the valve cover off. Thank you!
Could you please help me understand why every time I type in "oil control valve replacement" It takes me to a video like yours. Which is the variable valve technology timing solenoid ?
Sure, I can help clarify that for you.
The "oil control valve" and the "variable valve timing (VVT) solenoid" are often terms used interchangeably because they refer to components that serve a similar function in modern engines with variable valve timing systems.
Oil Control Valve (OCV)
The Oil Control Valve is a crucial part of the variable valve timing system. Its primary role is to control the flow of oil to the VVT system. This valve adjusts the position of the camshafts, which in turn optimizes the timing of the intake and exhaust valves for various engine operating conditions. The OCV ensures that the right amount of oil reaches the VVT system at the right time.
Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid
The Variable Valve Timing Solenoid, also known as the VVT solenoid or camshaft position actuator solenoid, is responsible for directing the oil flow to different parts of the VVT system based on the engine's requirements. When the engine control unit (ECU) sends a signal, the VVT solenoid adjusts the camshaft position, which alters the timing of the valve opening and closing events to improve performance, fuel efficiency, and emissions.
Why do You See Videos for VVT Solenoid Replacement?
When you search for "oil control valve replacement," you often get videos for "variable valve timing solenoid replacement" because they are essentially discussing the same component. The terminology can vary between different manufacturers and mechanics, but the function remains the same: controlling the timing of the engine's valves by managing the flow of oil.
Function: Both the Oil Control Valve and the VVT Solenoid are designed to manage oil flow to the camshaft for variable valve timing.
Location: They are usually located near the camshaft or timing chain area of the engine.
Symptoms of Failure: Common symptoms include rough idling, poor fuel economy, decreased engine performance, and the illumination of the check engine light.
The confusion often arises due to the different terms used to describe the same or similar parts. Both the Oil Control Valve and the VVT Solenoid play vital roles in ensuring the engine runs efficiently by optimizing valve timing. When searching for replacement guides, you'll find that videos and articles for "VVT solenoid replacement" will provide the information you need for "oil control valve replacement" as well.
Hope this helps clarify.
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@UrbanAutomotive01
Wow! Thank you for such a detailed explanation.
Is it safe to drive your car for a week or two when the check engine light came on and this is the problem ?
@@theseattlegreen1871 While it might be safe to drive for a very short period with a check engine light due to a VVT solenoid or OCV issue, it's not advisable to extend this beyond what is absolutely necessary.
The longer you drive with the problem, the higher the risk of causing more significant damage to your engine. Scheduling a prompt repair is the best course of action to ensure your vehicle's longevity and performance. Good luck.
@UrbanAutomotive01
Thank you unknown hero!👍
@@theseattlegreen1871 get to know us better... we are not your "Average" shop 😉
www.urbanautomotive.ca
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My M37 in sport mode the down shifts seemed a little delayed as if my exhaust isn’t smoothly letting out that pressure
I don’t get what the issue is my VT Solenoid makes a rattle noise once in a while in other drive modes it’s good
My 301,000 mile ‘07 Yaris never has any of these issues
We have no doubt that statement is true😉 Thanks for watching 👀
I ran my 2007 Yaris to 326k miles and traded it in and received $1500.
hello friend, why do you think in my Hemi 5.7 2010, when mds is turned on and in eco mode, a crackling sound comes from the engine, as soon as you give gas everything is fine and quiet at idle, it’s also quiet, I don’t know where to climb, I changed the mds solenoids, the vvt solenoid did not change . any thoughts on what to do?
Hello! It sounds like you're experiencing a somewhat complex issue. The Multi-Displacement System (MDS) in your Hemi 5.7 2010 is designed to deactivate cylinders when they're not needed to save fuel. However, if you're hearing a crackling sound when MDS is turned on and in eco mode, there could be a few potential causes.
1. **MDS Solenoids**: You mentioned that you've already replaced the MDS solenoids, but it's worth noting that faulty solenoids can cause this issue. If the new solenoids are not functioning correctly, they could be the source of the problem.
2. **Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid**: The VVT solenoid controls the flow of oil to the VVT system and adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves. If it's not functioning correctly, it could cause abnormal noises. You mentioned that you haven't changed this yet, so it might be worth considering.
3. **Lifter Issues**: The lifters in your engine could be causing the noise. When the MDS is engaged, the lifters for the deactivated cylinders are supposed to collapse and stop moving. If they're not collapsing properly, they could be causing the crackling sound.
4. **Oil Pressure or Quality**: The MDS system relies on proper oil pressure to function. If the oil pressure is too low, or if the oil is old or of poor quality, the MDS system might not work correctly, leading to abnormal noises.
5. **Exhaust System**: Sometimes, the sound could be coming from the exhaust system. A leak or crack in the exhaust system can cause a crackling sound, especially when the engine load changes (like when the MDS system activates or deactivates).
Given these possibilities, here are a few steps you could take:
- **Check the oil**: Make sure the oil level is correct, and consider changing the oil if it's old or of poor quality.
- **Check the VVT solenoid**: Since you haven't replaced this yet, it might be worth checking.
- **Check the lifters**: If possible, have a mechanic check the lifters to see if they're functioning correctly.
- **Check the exhaust system**: Look for any signs of leaks or damage.
Remember, it's always a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic if you're unsure. They can help diagnose and fix the problem.
I just got my 03 passat 6cyl. vvt chsnged & the car still wont start, sure it sounds like it wants to start even changed the camsensor, again cause thats the code it came up w after the vvt change still no start. Cant find any wires pinched or frayed etc. so im stumped.
I did put injector cleaner in it twice in 1 month before the issue of rough running before next day it just wouldnt start. ..& the gas tank is low but not on empty. So i was thinking fuel filter was bad. But no one has looked at that for verification they just used a code reader & changed what codes it said but luck
You guys good with can bus data?
all they need to do is eliminate all the BS "fuel saving" devices. my 1977 Pontiac ran better than any new POS
I replaced the Variable Timing Solenoid on my 2006 Honda Accord, but the engine shuts off when I plug it in. It runs fine when it's unplugged, and the old solenoid was causing the same issue. Please help
probably the cams needs replacing
I went past the recommend miles between oil changes and a sludge build up on my 2017 Nissan Pathfinder. I’ve since changed the oil several times but the check engine signals a camshaft issue and I have a knocking sound. Would that be a symptom of a bad camshaft actuator?
Wouldn't you want to replace the whole bundle of wires? Yeah more expensive to buy the harness but wouldn't that be much less shop time?
Great question. In the case of this vehicle the new harness was not an option do to availability. A used harness would risk having the same or possibly more issues. We sourced the problem within an hour and the vehicle continues to be symptom free 3 years after completing this repair video 😉
Thanks for watching 👀
Can this effect the way it shifts and does it cause the car to jerk because every time I get it scanned it just shows the camshaft timing (VCT) system code P0012 I don’t get any transmission codes on it very confusing
Please help me
I've been searching for a VVT actuator assembly for my 2005 Chevy Colorado and I can't find it anywhere. IT has been discontinued by GM and I can't seem to get it anywhere else. I've been without my truck for months now and I am about ready to pull my hair out. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Car Quest Auto parts is our primary supplier. their part #is: VVC1003 and is $135.42 (Canadian) Thanks for watching.
Hahaaa good guys, great job 👍👍👍👍👍
I drove my car with p0011 p0014 on the computer I drove it for 20 miles and the car stalls and its crank no start now , now I have 3 more codes besides p0011 p0014 they are p0340 p0030 p0299 . 2003 volvo xc90 2.9l , are p0011 p0014 cause crank no start ?
Note I changed the crankshaft sensor and 2 camshaft sensors .
Please help .😢
The codes you've mentioned are related to different systems in your vehicle, and they could potentially cause a crank-no-start condition. Here's a brief explanation of each:
- **P0011**: "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1). This code indicates that the ECM has detected the camshaft timing on bank 1 is more advanced than it was instructed to be. This could be due to a faulty camshaft adjuster, camshaft sensor, or timing chain/belt.
- **P0014**: "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1). Similar to P0011, but this code relates to the exhaust camshaft.
- **P0340**: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor). This code indicates a problem with the camshaft position sensor circuit, which could be due to a faulty sensor, wiring, or ECM.
- **P0030**: HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1). This code indicates a problem with the oxygen sensor heater circuit, which could be due to a faulty oxygen sensor, wiring, or ECM.
- **P0299**: Turbocharger/Supercharger "A" Underboost Condition. This code indicates that the ECM has detected that the turbocharger or supercharger is not providing the required boost level. This could be due to a variety of issues, including a faulty turbocharger, wastegate, boost sensor, or related hoses/pipes.
Given these codes, it's possible that the P0011 and P0014 codes could cause a crank-no-start condition, especially if the camshaft timing is significantly off. However, the P0340 code could also cause this issue, as the ECM relies on the camshaft position sensor to determine when to fire the spark plugs.
Since you've already replaced the crankshaft sensor and two camshaft sensors, here are a few other things you might want to check:
- **Timing chain/belt**: If the timing chain or belt has jumped a tooth, it could cause the P0011 and P0014 codes and potentially lead to a crank-no-start condition.
- **Wiring and connectors**: Check the wiring and connectors associated with the camshaft position sensors and the oxygen sensor. Look for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections.
- **Turbocharger system**: Given the P0299 code, you might want to check the turbocharger system. Look for any signs of leaks, damage, or blockages.
- **Oxygen sensor**: The P0030 code suggests there might be a problem with the oxygen sensor (specifically, the heater circuit). You might want to check this sensor and its wiring.
As always, it's a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic if you're unsure. They can help diagnose and fix the problem.
Cars today are over engineered.
Please dont talk over each other. Hopefully you fixed this with later videos.
Cry about it. I found this helpful lol.
Damn I was looming for where y'all located lol. Not in my state dammit. I need some smart mechanics like this
I bet if I took my car to these guy they would do the same as all these auto doctors do
What is that supposed to mean? Just take yours to Uncle Scotty and he'll tell you unless you bought an older Toyota your car is trash.
Mike , you are fired!
Paul... I wish... 🙄 lol
Sorry bud... I own the place. 🙃
Thanks for watching 👀 🙂 🙏
Doctor Mike. Doctor Ian. Do you concur Doctor Ian. I concur Doctor Mike. OK scalpel Doctor Ian.
Replace harness save labor cost...
EK-WA-knocks
I have a question. I have a 2015 dodge dart aero multiair 1.4. Last week it threw code P106A then engine light turned off. Now, 8 days later, check engine light came on, loss of power ( acceleration) 6k rpm I was going about 32mph only. Took it in, and auto shop said it's not showing any codes??. They reset check engine light, and still no power and no check engine light. Please any help would be appreciated!!
Sorry for the late reply Mark. Were you able to get the issue resolved with your Dart?
Omg Chevy equinox it is especially I hate mine
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I guys r so funny 🤣
Who's the mechanic smh
Actually... BOTH are licensed RSE (or) ASE if your American... Technicians. 😉
Thanks for watching 👀 🙂
@@UrbanAutomotive01 it was sarcasm I just thought the guy with bald head over talks the other is why I said it
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Chevy ecqonox
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Run a 100% synthetic
.not a FULL synthetic.. Which is really only 25% percent synthetic, and the rest is mineral oil.
Lame
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What happens if you let one finger mail get too long. You build up sludge in it or snort drugs off of it I guess
do you still do Elvis impersonations .
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There is really nothing to learn from this guys.
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American quality in cars is BS!
Japanese can work forever with even more complications and a lot more features!
I had a manifold gasket changed recently. It was brittle and some fell in to the system. 1997 hevy Express, 1500, the oil was changed, recently, but do you think the solenoid should be checked ? Any recommendations?
Sorry for the late response... If pieces of the old, brittle manifold gasket fell into the system during replacement, there's a chance they could have caused some issues. These pieces could potentially block oil passages or get stuck in various components, affecting their operation.
The solenoid you're referring to might be the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoid, which controls the flow of oil to the VVT system and adjusts the timing of the intake and exhaust valves. If a piece of the gasket got stuck in the VVT solenoid, it could potentially affect its operation.
Here are a few steps you might want to consider:
1. **Check for error codes**: If the VVT solenoid or any other component is not functioning correctly, your vehicle's computer might have stored an error code. You can use an OBD-II scanner to check for any codes.
2. **Check the VVT solenoid**: If you're experiencing issues that could be related to the VVT system (such as rough idling, reduced fuel efficiency, or difficulty starting the engine), it might be worth checking the VVT solenoid.
3. **Flush the oil system**: If pieces of the gasket fell into the system, an oil system flush might help remove them. This process involves running a special cleaning solution through the oil system to remove any debris. However, this should be done carefully to avoid causing further issues.
4. **Inspect other components**: Depending on where the gasket pieces fell, they could potentially affect other components. If you're experiencing any specific symptoms, it might be worth inspecting the related components.
As always, it's a good idea to consult with a professional mechanic if you're unsure. They can help diagnose and fix the problem.
timing chain
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