Richard at the Finish Carpentry TV channel suggested your channel in a recent video. He wasn't lying. You do beautiful work. You, Next Level Carpentry, Gary Thomson Joinery and Finish Carpentry TV have taught me the woodworking community so much. Keep up the good work.
You took the words out of my mouth....ive been following Richard too and decided to jump over here bc Richard mentioned this channel and OMG!!! IM HOOKED HAHAHA and im just an average craftsman, not professional at all but oh my god you have an amazing shop plus you make beautiful work. So God bless you and keep you making straight lines and clean cuts.
I have that same table saw the saw stop 5hp industrial the only complaint I have with mine is i wish the arbor was a little longer. When i put a full dado stack on im getting like half to 3/4 of the nut on. Other than that youre correct probably the best table saw on the market. The trunion assembly is a tank. They literally thought of everything its worth every penny
@ 4:46 with your Dial a Dado, 0.004 inches is four thousands of an inch, or "four thou". Which is about equal to the thickness of a Post-it Note, approximately 0.003 - 0.004 inches. Something I was taught by an old Machinist that I find helpful for making minor adjustments. Your channel is great!! Thank you for all the work you put into it. I have already learned a lot, keep up the good work.
I had to take a closer look at where you are located when I saw Gorman Bros lumber being used (they are a few miles down the road from me). Great work and info. Thank you.
Great videos, I dont do any lock miters but you may be able to run everything on shaper and get a little clearance in the joint by running one a second time after having bumped the height adjustment
on the double-lick miter joint you were talking about over gluing, and having difficulty with assembly. i can see that, but if it’s a hot day and your using titebond3 and only using what’s needed, the assembly should go well. i understand that it’s more time, but you could always go an extra step, and reduce the tongue length (on either joint) using the table saw or the router table to give a little room for the glue on either joint. removing a 3/64” or 1/32” is an extremely light cutting process, and you can really fly thru the pieces, so time doesn’t have to be an issue. just my two cents. eight way, both joints are strong. i love your shop.
Late to the party, however, I'll add my $.02. Get another base for your power feeder and mount it to your tablesaw. So you can move the feeder between the shaper and the saw. It will make those long rips much easier.
I bought the freud dado set SD608 and my sawstop won't turn on, i tried bypassing the safety but nothing works, called freud and sawstop and they told me that I can't use that dado set with my sawstop... can you tell me how you bypassed the safety lockout ?
Have you noticed a blade to brake clearance issue using the Dial-A-Width dado stack with your SawStop? It appears the tips of the blade come extremely close to the saws brake. SawStop recommended I not use this stack. Curious if you have noticed the same issue or concern. Great site!!!
Yes, I adjusted mine so that it had a bit more clearance. I have it set now so that it works with my typical saw blade as well as the dado stack. Its an easy adjustment with the hex wrench they provide with the saw. If you are still nervous about it triggering accidentally just run it in bypass mode. I have done that before just to ensure I don't track a cartridge and $300 dado stack.
Great info. Thanks for posting. Question: Do you ever have the heavy duty packing tape removing wood material when you pull it off after the glue dries? Wondered if you've ever used the 'wide' 3M painters tape? Would that hold the joint well while the glue dries? Thanks!
Thanks for sharing the technique in such ordered detail. Two questions: what is the moister content of your rough stock? Do you pin nail your beams to the support blocks? Your photo gallery is most impressive!
Newbie here, Im about to attempt my first faux beam, so I have some questions, so I dont mess this up. It will be a 12 by 9, by 19 feet long, one inch thick.I have some concerns about cupping, warping, etc since the wood Im using (douglas fir) is relatively new (one year stickered in bsmt waiting), so i had thought about thinning the wood in half using a band saw, then laminating the backside with plywood to bring the thickness back and to aid in stability, along with blocking every couple feet. I might be wrong about this, but I personally think that the lock miter takes so much material away it weakens it, so Im apprehensive about it, i dont have that equipment anyway, so I was planning on just doing a 45, with biscuits. Would appreciate your thoughts on best method.
I was just asked to run beams on a ceiling 17’+. 4 beams 1x4 or 1x5. What material did you use on this video? Poplar?? What if you have to put a joint in??
You’re awesome, man. Very skilled and I like the way you deliver your content.
Richard at the Finish Carpentry TV channel suggested your channel in a recent video. He wasn't lying. You do beautiful work.
You, Next Level Carpentry, Gary Thomson Joinery and Finish Carpentry TV have taught me the woodworking community so much. Keep up the good work.
You took the words out of my mouth....ive been following Richard too and decided to jump over here bc Richard mentioned this channel and OMG!!! IM HOOKED HAHAHA and im just an average craftsman, not professional at all but oh my god you have an amazing shop plus you make beautiful work. So God bless you and keep you making straight lines and clean cuts.
Spencer always has the answer.
U are a wizard sir. Bravo.
Just found your channel. Man, your skillset is out of this world. Thanks for all that you share. God bless my friend.
You explain things very well, and methodically. Keep up the good work!
3:08 that is another amazing idea from this killer channel. So much learning here. Thank you man,
Man you are a wealth of knowledge. I'm really happy you are on youtube.
Beautiful work.
I have that same table saw the saw stop 5hp industrial the only complaint I have with mine is i wish the arbor was a little longer. When i put a full dado stack on im getting like half to 3/4 of the nut on. Other than that youre correct probably the best table saw on the market. The trunion assembly is a tank. They literally thought of everything its worth every penny
My all time favorite channel, no other like it on youtube! Thanks for the awesome content.
Those fireplaces look absolutely amazing.
Hdpe is pretty cool. Our commercial snow shovels and pushers use that material to cut way back on friction on the ground. Works great
You are a great wealth of knowledge on the subjects you cover, thanks for taking the time to make and share these videos.
371 clear tape works awesome on miters..! You are great.!!
Your work is amazing!
@ 4:46 with your Dial a Dado, 0.004 inches is four thousands of an inch, or "four thou". Which is about equal to the thickness of a Post-it Note, approximately 0.003 - 0.004 inches. Something I was taught by an old Machinist that I find helpful for making minor adjustments.
Your channel is great!! Thank you for all the work you put into it. I have already learned a lot, keep up the good work.
Your skill set is amazing to watch. Very impressive.I just ordered the glue bottle .
Thank you!
Awesome work as always.
nice work!
I had to take a closer look at where you are located when I saw Gorman Bros lumber being used (they are a few miles down the road from me). Great work and info. Thank you.
Great videos, I dont do any lock miters but you may be able to run everything on shaper and get a little clearance in the joint by running one a second time after having bumped the height adjustment
on the double-lick miter joint you were talking about over gluing, and having difficulty with assembly. i can see that, but if it’s a hot day and your using titebond3 and only using what’s needed, the assembly should go well.
i understand that it’s more time, but you could always go an extra step, and reduce the tongue length (on either joint) using the table saw or the router table to give a little room for the glue on either joint. removing a 3/64” or 1/32” is an extremely light cutting process, and you can really fly thru the pieces, so time doesn’t have to be an issue.
just my two cents.
eight way, both joints are strong.
i love your shop.
If I see the result and the projects you already did .... I want that too
Late to the party, however, I'll add my $.02. Get another base for your power feeder and mount it to your tablesaw. So you can move the feeder between the shaper and the saw. It will make those long rips much easier.
I bought the freud dado set SD608 and my sawstop won't turn on, i tried bypassing the safety but nothing works, called freud and sawstop and they told me that I can't use that dado set with my sawstop... can you tell me how you bypassed the safety lockout ?
doing this Monday with " pecky cypress" in South Savanna Georgia. btw I can't believe the arch beams got painted, you had those in tight.
Have you noticed a blade to brake clearance issue using the Dial-A-Width dado stack with your SawStop? It appears the tips of the blade come extremely close to the saws brake. SawStop recommended I not use this stack. Curious if you have noticed the same issue or concern. Great site!!!
Yes, I adjusted mine so that it had a bit more clearance. I have it set now so that it works with my typical saw blade as well as the dado stack. Its an easy adjustment with the hex wrench they provide with the saw. If you are still nervous about it triggering accidentally just run it in bypass mode. I have done that before just to ensure I don't track a cartridge and $300 dado stack.
I like the way you talk. Reminds me of Tom Petty.
Great info. Thanks for posting. Question: Do you ever have the heavy duty packing tape removing wood material when you pull it off after the glue dries? Wondered if you've ever used the 'wide' 3M painters tape? Would that hold the joint well while the glue dries? Thanks!
Usually it just raises the grain. No issues after a light sanding. Painters tape would probably work too. I've used a couple different kinds.
Can you do a video on how to set up this tooling? I just bought one in favor of the one piece.
Thanks for sharing the technique in such ordered detail. Two questions: what is the moister content of your rough stock? Do you pin nail your beams to the support blocks? Your photo gallery is most impressive!
Have you considered the Titebond Extend line of glues?
I haven't really. TB3 is more readily available and easy to grab. I may have to look into the extend. 👍
Do you scribe your beams to fit perfect? You know how sometime walls are off and if you build at home how do you measure for the beam to make fit?
Yes. I scribe everything onsite.
@@InsiderCarpentry do you make the beams over sized in length, I could see scribing the top to ceiling but how would you do side that meet walls?
@@InsiderCarpentry can you make a video on scribbing onsite
Bravo my friend...your very talanted for a 17 year old kid.
Hahaha
Trim carpenters always look young. Its all the formaldehyde we breathe in.
Newbie here, Im about to attempt my first faux beam, so I have some questions, so I dont mess this up.
It will be a 12 by 9, by 19 feet long, one inch thick.I have some concerns about cupping, warping, etc since the wood Im using (douglas fir) is relatively new (one year stickered in bsmt waiting), so i had thought about thinning the wood in half using a band saw, then laminating the backside with plywood to bring the thickness back and to aid in stability, along with blocking every couple feet.
I might be wrong about this, but I personally think that the lock miter takes so much material away it weakens it, so Im apprehensive about it, i dont have that equipment anyway, so I was planning on just doing a 45, with biscuits.
Would appreciate your thoughts on best method.
Good Stuff again. I will be buying these cutters. Careful or youl be could be creating a generation of new "craftsmen"..... lol
I was just asked to run beams on a ceiling 17’+. 4 beams 1x4 or 1x5. What material did you use on this video? Poplar?? What if you have to put a joint in??
You make some beautiful pieces. You work alone or with a helper?
Jerry Brady almost always solo.
Did you use lock miter set on arches too?
Nope.
Awesome video! Do you just buy your lumber for jobs S4S? Or do you get rough and do all the surfacing in the shop.
Always S4S.
Cool stuff dude. I’ve heard a lot of Freeborn shaper cutters, but where do you purchase them?
Link in notes.
Try strapping tape. It is reinforced and won't rip on you.
Not to get personal, but where did you learn your mad skills? Did you apprentice with someone?
Self taught. Lots of internet research and rubbing shoulders virtually with some great carpenters.
Really? That makes your work even more impressive!
Do you use a router table? If so which one? What router?
Shaper. Check out the first video. On the lock miter bit that I posted right before this video.
High Density Polyethylene, HDPE
it's 4 thousands pr click... you're welcome