Mitre Lock Quick Tip
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2019
- #mitrelock
Hey Guys! You might have seen my video from a couple weeks ago where I tried out the mitre lock router bit for the first time. I had some amazing results with it.
I received some comments suggesting I remove some of the bevel on the table saw first and also received some concern that the joint is too tight and not enough room for glue. In this video I address both of these comments.
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He talks the way the voice in my head sounds. "I should drive my truck over that or something. That would be cool to see." I like this guy.
Totaly cleaned up workshop - freezer and refresher in the corner - gun over the door - I really like it! 💪💪💪
Just put a thin piece of material against your fence before the first pass. Remove it for your final pass. I saw this on someone else's channel a while back.
Great tip!
I used that same bit to make a 16 foot long oak wrap over a beam. I found that it can be routed easily in three successive passes. You need continuous support before and after so the piece does not rock and pull up out of the router. I hung the two side pieces, ran glue down both joints and inserted the bottom piece and once it started it smoothly went into position and I put clamps on it every 12 inches. Came out great
Sharpening any profile router bit is simple pass the flat area over a fine diamond stone a few times after each use. You never attempt to sharpen the profile shape. I've got razor sharp router bits that are used daily in my workshop for over 40 years by doing this method I've used
Now I find out there is a Router Bit for Miter Joints. I've been working on perfecting a good Miter Joint, (in plywood with Edge Banning) all week for a very small project. I think I finally got it and I see your Video, I'll try it also.
I enjoy improving my Skills, it doesn't make any difference in what area, it could be Woodworking/Sailing/Camping, anything.
An easier solution to the problem of "too much material to hog out at one time" would be to make 2 or 3 passes on the router table, with each getting progressively deeper. You can use your setup block to setup your final pass. You can do this with all of your larger router bits as well. Doing this will give you the perfect joint you're looking for without over stressing the router bit or even the router AND without having to go through all kinds of trial and error setup on the table saw. I would also very strongly recommend using a push block or push stick on both the table saw and the router table. My personal choice is a MicroJig GRRRIPPER. I am kinda attached to my fingers and thumbs, but seriously, if it weren't for my SawStop table saw, I probably wouldn't have my left hand. After that nightmare, I bought 2 GRRRIPPERs.
PaganWizard yes, seems like the standard advice of taking small cuts would hold true for this bit profile...I don't see any unusual cutting profile issue where a shallow pass would ruin the work piece for e.g like it would for a t-slot or dovetail bit or keyhole bit. That seems like the way I would have done it anyway, as my router and 1/4" bits don't have that kind of power.
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This is a awesome idea. I would have used up several bits before I would have thought of it.
Good straightforward video.
That is a very good idea!
Nice video and a great tip. I think the more material you try remove at a time the more pressure you put on yourself, your machinery and cutting tools.
Nicely done Wes! I really like those bits & that joint is really indestructable when glued up. I would agree with one of the other posters that using multiple passes is the best way to sneak up on the final fit, especially if you have the correct size template..............
Sapele Steve good idea. Thank you
I'm going to be redoing my kitchen and want all my lower cabinets to have nothing but drawers and pullouts, getting too old to get down on my hands and knees.
I have a nice dovetail jig and love the results but setup takes what seems like forever. I'm the kind of woodworker that is satisfied at the final product more than the process so I'm always looking for a faster way to get comparable results. I've never used a locking miter but watching your video makes we want to try.
great thinking. thank you.
Thank u for the video. Very helpful to me
Nice followup, thanks!
Thanks for watching
Hey, you are a genius, thanks for the explanation.
Haha, I wouldn’t go that far
Good questions, good answers. Thanks Wes.
Jim Dockrell thanks jim.
That's a good idea if using thick stock, to run a slight bevelled cut.
good review
Hey Wes. I’m betting by now that you no longer use the set up block for this bit. Hope so because it’s so much easier to use my setup method with a marker gauge. Thanks for posting. Let’s keep the good woodworking ideas flowing.
Just watched your video. I like your technique. I am going to try that next time
An alternative solution:
Set up the cutter depth and fence with an offcut of same thickness then fix a scrap piece of 6mm ply or MDF to the fence to offset the cut.
Run everything thru with the 6mm spacer before removing it and running everything thru a second time.
That way you don't need a tablesaw,
Hi Wes, good video but what did the outside edge of the joint look like? You didn't show us that and seemed to keep your thumbs over that edge, which is the part of the joint we really want to see in box making. Some good ideas though.
Good video Wes. I use the lock mitre a lot and have never needed to sharpen them . Just keep them clean and they should last a long time. Just an FYI I noticed the vertical board dip a little when you ran it through. I don’t remember where my insert ring came from to work with my lock miter bit but it does help. Also there is a set of anodized and magnetized set-up guides that go right on the bit and use a center line to set up the bit and they work great and make setup easy or at least easier!
I know you have like a pole barn style framed shop..... Do you have any video of how you framed up your walls in between so you could build your interior walls? If not can you do a video of a mock up showing how to frame and finish the interior wall. Several people I know saw your shop video (I shared your video) and are interested in how you did the wall and finished it. Thanks Wes.
Ron
thanks Ron. For sure. I will try to get a video out shortly explaining how I build my shop. I do have pictures as well that will help with my explanation. I really wish I filmed building my shop
not a bad video. You helped my curiosity on this bit. Need to work on the cave echo though
Good idea to cut some stuff off first I don’t have one of those bits yet but I want one
What about doing the join on end grain like it's meant to be
Hi
I noticed the dark wood machining on edge it moved going over the large hold on the router table
Great solution for that problem. I hope you bit will live a litle longer now LOL
Christofix - DIY Projects i hope so too
It's really dangerous to run your hands right over the cutter area first rule of machining on day one of any machining course don't put you hands anywhere near a moving cutter.....
To use that bit do you got to change the measurements on your wood as of making it longer or shorter
There are plenty of articles and UA-cam videos on how easy it is to sharpen your router bits
Beautiful looking joint 😊👌
Mahendra Tiwari thank you
Is it possible to use this router bit on something like a picture frame where you only need the end of the four pieces beveled? Or does the entire length of the stock need to be routed?
Nice video! What type of wood glue do you use? (Brand) I am looking for a quick cure time
thx
How can u use that bit for shadowboxes
1:36 whats a name of base for your hand router. That blue things. I wish to make stationary router table and use my dewalt router 1/2 for it
That really makes a beautiful joint that looks incredibly strong. Is the main purpose for these drawer boxes?
Hello Wes, I am Jan from Holland. I struggle a long time to installatie this bit. The manufacturer give not the install information. So, I saw your video and I have Some question. If you have f.i. a thichness wood 10mm . Can you use also this bit AND ... how to install? Fence distance and hight? Is herefore a rule ? Can you help me? 2. Have this bit a range for thickness f.i. From 10 to 18mm?
Best regards
Greetings from us in Holland🌷🌷
And I did use homemade feather boards
have you had any problems going across plywood ,,it seems like it bogs down on me,,and has blow out
How thick are wardrobe doors?
You use double sided tape to stick a piece of 3” wide x 3/8 (10mm) birch ply to the timber back face. That allows a cut at 1/2 depth. Then remove the ply and make the full depth cut.
Great tip!
Why you dont show how you adjust the table saw
If the theory is to cut a miter to reduce the amount material the router bit has to hog out, wouldn't cutting a shallower miter, so you get a better looking joint, only benefit half of the router bit? In theory, you'd be left with a bit that, over time, is sharper on one end than the other.
Wes, your first bevel pass was 45 degrees and that left gaps. you "adjusted" the angle for the final cut that was successful but didn't tell us what that successful bevel angle was. What is it?? Or did you just adjust the fence and cut less material still at 45 degrees?
Hi Wes, a mate said this joint is not strong due to wood fibre directions. Did you test the strength with your truck? Thanks. Jack
Yes I did. I have a video showing it. I had surprising results
Awesome. Hey wes how big is ur shop?
D’s Hard Wood Creations thanks, 24x36 12’ ceiling
Why not use a “shim “ on the face of your fence that you remove after a pass.
Hi, can you please provide some info on the bit you used? Assuming you have used it quite a bit since, are you happy with it?
Its the Mitre Lock bit from blue tornado
There’s already strength tests on UA-cam
What RPM do you run the bit? I've had many problems with burning.
That bit should run at approximately 18,000 RPM
that increase time .
If you look at the dark board when he is holding it up and explaining the connection, it looks like a Doberman dog
MAKE YOUR OWN FEATHER BOARDS!!!!
Is there enough room for the glue? HaHa Man, that's a good one !
What was the quick tip?
Your plywood block is 23/32 inch. 1/32 smaller than your 3/4 inch hardwood
I’d wipe the excess glue off before it dries. Less work.
The bit cuts the miter, you run square pieces though the router table, you don't need to cut the board at a 45 to start.
I think you missed the point of this video
Use household salt to stop the glued joint sliding whilst joining. Saw that on another vid.
Will this bit work with 5/4 PVC lumber?
Different size bits have a different range of thicknesses it can be used on, not just one size fits all
Is it square that's what I wanna know?
Yep
I wasn’t too clear on how you corrected the ill-fitting joint. It would have been better if you had described it while showing step by step how you corrected the joint problem rather than just basically mention that it didn’t fit well so I did this and that to fix it.
That "complaint" is BS.If you are using good quality bits - which you should be for a large bit - you will get hundreds of cuts before having to sharpen it. I use Lee Valley bits - some of them for ten years - and have not had that problem. Even so,if you get 100 cuts for $50.00 it Does not owe you anything
John Thompson that is very true!
Not to mention, just make the cut in multiple passes.
Do it on the end grain
Watch you don't get demonitizd. All that talk about tight mating pieces
Steve Zielonko lol, should I be afraid?
I didn’t have the luck you did. I think I got a cheap bit.
Mine is just a cheap one aswell
Make 2-3 passes and your bit will last a long time.
Could you do a 6 sided box with this?
I don’t see what you couldn’t
Like the vid ! Drive your truck over it 😆 ok napolean dynamite lol.
Yeah, ya kinda lost me when you kept calling it a rotor bit.
I think UA-cam should demonize anyone not wearing and using proper safety gear. There were no safety glasses, push pads when applying downward force, the only safety bit that was used was a feather board on one piece being cut. Honestly, this bit was manufactured to hog out all the material. The concern would be the glue in the plywood layers dulling the bit, but they are made of carbide and shouldn't be an issue. This video is for those that don't know much about woodworking and will mislead people into making errors.
UA-cam should play mommy? Really? His tools he can use them how he wants to. If a newbie gets as far as running their ass scratchers through a router bit because they don't know how to work safely, that's on them. Not UA-cam and not this guy but them.