Thanks so much man. I've re and re'ed a couple of engines in my life and the ring have always been pregame. Now I have a bored block and my rings have 0.00 end gap at the moment. Didn't even know that tool existed, thought I ordered the wrong ones haha
Dude, your videos are brilliantly easy to understand. I remember watching my father build the 350 V8 in car years ago but I didn't recall much, but now that I watch your videos, I properly understand what I'm looking at. I'm soon to be building a 454 (7.4L V8) so I'm informing myself any way possible.
This is a good tutorial for the DIY home, novice, builders. Very clear and well explained. 1 thing though when your squaring your rings for checking gap in the bore, Id suggest saving your old piston heads and rings before throwing them in the bin, so to save damaging the new heads and rings while measuring clearances. Other than that its a very good watch, keep up the good work.
Real cool I am just about to overhaul a 2.2L celica block and this was very helpful I have been watching so many vid and no one every spoke on the inportance of ring gaping thanks.
THANK YOU! I recently gained almost twice as much compression due to my camshaft upgrade and adding more with a turbo, just needed to confirm this is what I needed to do to prevent scraping up the cylinder walls.
Great video will defently help me a lot on my mazdaspeed 3 rebuild. 1st time ever doing anything of this magnitude just watching videos and learning. Thanks
Good video! I got to file a BUNCH of rings for my 406. Mahle sent 4.155 ➕. 005 and I'm gapping for nitrous and i got that same handheld crank one and motorized it with a drill
Nice video informative for a novice engine builder but here's a big tip from someone who builds high end high performance enduarance engines. Only file 1 side! The gap ends are perfectly cut concentric when they are manufactured. ALSO, turn the ring grinder wheel towards the ring center,,,then take a small file and remove the burr,,,then measure at the cylinder you are working on
Great tip!! using the piston with ring 2 fitted, to allow you to push down and square the top ring for gaping, Im just doing a motor-bike 72cc bore kit and this simple tip will come in handy. Glad i found your video. Thx Pb UK
Sounds epic. You can do alot with stock internals if you do it right! Main reason I switched to forged is because I was rebuilding this motor anyway, I figured its a good time to do it. I'm doing the same kind of thing as you. putting it together, breaking in, confirming reliability, and then turbo! I'm looking at 550cc injectors, S15 t28 (disco potato), efi specialists tune, with z32 maf. Shooting for low 300s, after I'm bored with that, I'll go higher :)
You have like the best how to build bottom end and I was wondering if you could please put up a how to build the top end that way you have a whole engine!! Thank you for your help
kool and very informative vid bro. also nice straight-forward common sense technique on the filing of only one side of the ring.your vid helped me further understand what I'm up against.keep doing you bro! I subbed. Shalom
Thanks man! Burning oil could be rings or valve seals, or possible headgasket but you'd also have other symptoms if it was the headgasket. Check your compression on all 4. If your compression is good, its likely that your burning oil is coming from the valve seals.
For a V8, I recommend inviting some friends over, gets some burgers going, and turn on some good music, its going to be a while. There are really fancy filers available with dial indicators and powered wheels, but those are very expensive and not really worth it unless you'll be doing this a lot. You can get them done at a machine shop, but if you have time, then you can save some money doing it yourself. Good luck! Share your project on the facebook group, I'd love to see it!
Great video dude! The gap look a bit small to me but I used to working on bikes and they run a lot hotter. By the way, you should check you gap on the bottom, middle and top of your cylinder walls. You never know if it was bored and honed correctly.
Nicely explained! One question if I may; Why is it that you turn the file in the direction that you did? It seems counter intuitive. In my mind it makes sense to flip the ring over and rotate the file the other way, so that the ring is pushed into the tool and seats itself against the tool, thus being totally stable, instead of the tip wanting to lift off the tool and possibly vibrating.
Way cool video! I've built a few old turbo Dodge 2.2L/2.5L motors and I'd say you nailed the proper procedure. This is definitely something that you want to be completely anal about getting right 1st try. It's a pain to stand over your engine block with feeler gauges for such a long period of time, but worth it in the end.
Hello, very good video. I am rebuilding my nissan rd28. I never did nothing like that before. By mistake I filled too much the second rings on 2 of my pistos (this is a 6cyl engine) the manual says the gap should be between 0.20 to 0.35mm but I left them with 0.40mm. I cannot buy just 2 rings so I'd like to read your option whether I should buy a whole new set of rings just to get those 2 or I can go ahead and leave them like that and close the engine. thanks
say I see you explained the process of gap and filling but can you add to a video on how to install all rings cause I would like to know how you set them on the piston and how in what position they go in the chainber thank you I liked your video.
The general concensus is you do it at the bottom of the bore about two inches up, the bore can be larger at the top than the bottom. Your ring gap may be good at the top but will be too tight measured at the bottom. When hot the rings will pinch up, possibly break and pick up on the bore
very good video. very tedious looking for somebody with more cylinders such as a V8. do you have any recommendations for an alternative way to file the rings? Im doing a very budget rebuild on a Ford 302 block. every dollar counts but I would like to get them as best as I can
I have a 03 Dakota 4.7l I just got the block bored an i got new postings rings.do I have to shave my rings before I put them on the pistons. An why.i can't just put them ob if it is new??.ty
so the objeective is to get the ring to just sit evenly within the blocks wall and it should work properly also where are you getting the numbers for the feeler gauges for top and bottom rings
If it was a budget build I would have kept the stock internals. Cylinders were out of round so I had it matched and machined .020 over to the Wiseco pistons. The compression ratio is 9:1 as opposed to the 9.5:1 factory ratio, which is perfect for me as I won't be running high boost. deck surface was not machined because there was no warping present so the $200 to get the deck machined would have been a waste. I'm not using an mls headgasket either so I don't need a mirror finish on the surfaces.
So whats the deal with the KA block? No offense but is it a cheap budget build? I just noticed that the deck surface looked untouched as far as machining goes, did you just freshen up the cyl. with a flex hone brush? And as far as the Wiseco pistons you bought, whats the compression ratio those babies are gonna give ya? Great job though!
I think I got carbon build up on my pistons in my 2001 Honda Odyssey. Can I do something to fix this at home or do I have to take it in to the shop? Is it an expensive job?
Awesome videos! Glad I randomly found them. Where did you buy those pre-bent feeler gauges?@4:00 I snap mine when I bend them, or I bend them in an arc shape :(
Prakash, are you familiar with the differences in quality on rings between some of the major manufacturers of pistons such as Wiseco, CP, Arias and so on? I'm getting ready to build my VQ35DE (currently single turbo but on stock internals).
BlueonGoldZ I'll go into detail about this later, but I honestly cannot recommend Wiseco. Since you asked about rings, I'll share my experience with that. Wiseco has a chart that ships with their rings that helps you determine what end-gap you should use for your build. I followed this to choose my end-gaps. However, when I initially measured the gaps (out of the box) some of them were already bigger than what I needed. I had to go back and forth with JEGS about 3 times (paying shipping each time) before I received rings that I could file to the proper gap. Even though I have no experience with CP or Arias, I know people that do, and based on my experience with Wiseco I highly recommend CP or Arias.
Project Garage Oh wow. Do other manufacturers who make pistons ship their pistons with all the necessary rings included? Second question: As far as design and build quality of the pistons themsevles, are Wiseco good in your opinion? What about the other brands? Any I should stay away from for a boosted platform (staying to stock compression)
BlueonGoldZ The pistons from wiseco shipped with the correct rings included, however they were all already overgapped so I had to re-order rings a few times. The pistons themselves held up aside from one problem. The retaining clip that holds the wrist pin in the piston failed on one of my pistons. The wrist pin then slid out and created a huge gouge in the cylinder wall, pretty much trashing that block. I really would stay away from Wiseco, based on my experience.
Project Garage Wow. Thank you for the info. How long ago was it that you had these issues with the retaining pins and the ring gaps? Asking to see if this was many years ago, perhaps their QC has gotten better.
Why you want .018 ? .014 is full ok, or do you build up a race / blown engine ? On normal street naturally aspirated enginges the formula says 0.004 * bore, which means to be .014 about.
If a valve seat sleeve fell down inside the cylinder, and bounced around like popcorn until it got crunched up into little bitty parts, and chewed up the top of the cylinder, and weakened the cylinder rod to the point of breaking, would you consider that bad engineering? Because that's what happened on my Ford Escort, and it seems to be a common design problem with the Ford Escort. The valve seat isn't fastened by anything, just jammed up in there tight. I took the head off my car, cleaned everything up, got rid of all the crunchy bits, replaced the head, valves, gaskets, and everything, and put her back together, and she ran perfect for 2 minutes until the cylinder rod broke on the piston that had its head chewed up the most. So is like Ford a reputable car company with a good history of building engines? Because I'm thinking not. And that I got screwed and sold a lemon with a purposefully designed in design defect.
Well, thats generally how valve seats are installed. They're press fit. I would assume your problem has to do with the valve seats not being made from the proper material. Different materials behave differently under heat. This may have been an oversight in the design stages where they assumed that the seat would last for "the life of the car". But I haven't really looked into it. Ford is a good company, especially recently. Actually, US automakers in general have really stepped up their game. However, 10-20 years ago, US cars weren't as reliable as they are today.
There is no way to tell the condition of the rod on a piston that is chewed up. You hope for the best that its just surface damage. Why? Because its an insane amount of work to get a front wheel drive car engine out of a small compact car, flip it over, take off the transmission, just to get to where you can even see the rods and take them out. A front wheel drive is absolutely piss poor design for user servicablility. Compare say the front wheel drive engine of my dead ford escort, packed in there like sardines in a can , where you can't cant even get your hand in there to change a drive belt (you have to take off a wheel to do so).... compare that to say a ford model A, where the engine is out in the open on all sides and if you want to do anything to it, its all right there in front of you. I tell everybody I can to avoid front wheel drive cars because they are absolute crap. We have a field full of them my sister bought that ran for a few years then died. Nobody can fix them because it would cost an insane mount of time and money. And yet I myself am driving motorbikes and rear wheel drive cars still srom 1981/1983/1985. Thats 30 plus year old cars. How? Because if anything goes wrong on them, and it does, ts possible to get a tool in there and fix it, and worse case scenario, possible to take the engine out. Ford knows different metals expand at different rates when heated or cooled. They've been in the engine building buisiness for a 100 years. There is no excuse for their valve seat design flaw. Im not the only one.. google "ford escort valve seat drop". I'll never buy an American car again, and after experiencing how far easier it is to maintain a motorcycle, I'll probably never buy a car again period. They truely are inefficient aweful vehicles. They have their places and uses but for the vast majority of people a motorbike would be a much better choice, cheaper, more fuel efficient, less impact on the planets resources, easier to work on, less pollutuing, etc. With a car your basically paying through your nose at the pump to haul all that steel and glass and carpet around...
CHOPPERGIRL AIRWAR Bikes are awesome....then it rains! LOL! How you go about comparing cars and bikes, did you ever managed to haul kids, furniture, lumber, equipments, and cargo boxes using your tiny bike??? LMAO!!! Since that bailout money came into play in the American auto industry, American cars became very different and more reliable...totally different from your old Ford Escort. I can't understand your gripe with FWD cars...some guys can fix these cars even with their eyes closed. You're just not talented enough I guess.
I love bikes and all, but the practicality isn't the best. Having a bike and a car would be awesome, having just a car isn't bad, having just a bike would suck at times. I dont have to worry about distracted drivers killing me in my car. I can play with it in all kinds of weather. I dont have to suit up to drive it. A/C in the summer, heat in the winter. 25mpg, super fun to drive, there really isn't much to complain about. But really like Blitz said, you can't compare the two, they're totally different machines for totally different purposes so theres no point in really talking about it lol. As far as FWD engines being hard to work on.... I can't really agree. I'm very biased, I love RWD cars and I'd never really buy a FWD car ever. I really dont enjoy driving FWD cars. But I find them a lot easier to work on. Pulling the engine is a breeze because all of the mounts are super accessible for the most part and the transmission isn't under the car... Aside from the serpentine belt and water pump, mostly everything you'd work on is staring at you. It gets kind of stuffed with FWD V6 engines, but FWD inline 4s are a breeze. As far as american cars, they're great. Things really have turned around for american companies. The old 90's views on american cars being unreliable are pretty irrelevant. We've always made good trucks, we've know how to make a damn good V8. And now we're churning out some pretty reliable and fun cars. Its your choice whether you want to buy them or not, but we do make some good cars now. You seem very firm in your opinions so I'll let you know I'm not trying to argue, but things have changed since your escort came out. Anyway, whether its bikes or cars or whatever, as long as your enjoying what you're doing, keep at it!
I have seen a couple of videos and your the first to show how to intal a ring piston the right way👍
You have a great stage voice and a very good understanding of the English language. I learn a lot listening to and watching your videos. Thanks!
Thanks so much man. I've re and re'ed a couple of engines in my life and the ring have always been pregame. Now I have a bored block and my rings have 0.00 end gap at the moment. Didn't even know that tool existed, thought I ordered the wrong ones haha
Dude, your videos are brilliantly easy to understand. I remember watching my father build the 350 V8 in car years ago but I didn't recall much, but now that I watch your videos, I properly understand what I'm looking at. I'm soon to be building a 454 (7.4L V8) so I'm informing myself any way possible.
This is a good tutorial for the DIY home, novice, builders. Very clear and well explained. 1 thing though when your squaring your rings for checking gap in the bore, Id suggest saving your old piston heads and rings before throwing them in the bin, so to save damaging the new heads and rings while measuring clearances. Other than that its a very good watch, keep up the good work.
You're right! Be careful and pay close attention to how much you're taking off. Glad the video helped!
Real cool I am just about to overhaul a 2.2L celica block and this was very helpful I have been watching so many vid and no one every spoke on the inportance of ring gaping thanks.
Good work, Prakash. Good to see a motorhead liking what he is doing. Jim
THANK YOU!
I recently gained almost twice as much compression due to my camshaft upgrade and adding more with a turbo, just needed to confirm this is what I needed to do to prevent scraping up the cylinder walls.
your vids were way way better and understandable than the others. thank you.
Good video getting ready to build a 400 Ford Torino and you did a good job on showing how to gap rings.👍
Great video will defently help me a lot on my mazdaspeed 3 rebuild. 1st time ever doing anything of this magnitude just watching videos and learning. Thanks
Good video! I got to file a BUNCH of rings for my 406. Mahle sent 4.155 ➕. 005 and I'm gapping for nitrous and i got that same handheld crank one and motorized it with a drill
This helped me so much! A tip for anyone doing this. It doesn't take much to take a few thou off so be very careful!
Nice video informative for a novice engine builder but here's a big tip from someone who builds high end high performance enduarance engines. Only file 1 side! The gap ends are perfectly cut concentric when they are manufactured. ALSO, turn the ring grinder wheel towards the ring center,,,then take a small file and remove the burr,,,then measure at the cylinder you are working on
Rewatch the video and you see this mentioned allrrady genius
Great tip!! using the piston with ring 2 fitted, to allow you to push down and square the top ring for gaping, Im just doing a motor-bike 72cc bore kit and this simple tip will come in handy. Glad i found your video. Thx Pb UK
Sounds epic. You can do alot with stock internals if you do it right! Main reason I switched to forged is because I was rebuilding this motor anyway, I figured its a good time to do it. I'm doing the same kind of thing as you. putting it together, breaking in, confirming reliability, and then turbo! I'm looking at 550cc injectors, S15 t28 (disco potato), efi specialists tune, with z32 maf. Shooting for low 300s, after I'm bored with that, I'll go higher :)
You have like the best how to build bottom end and I was wondering if you could please put up a how to build the top end that way you have a whole engine!! Thank you for your help
Luis Lam This has been requested so many times! The next time I do that job, I'll film it for sure! Thanks for the support
kool and very informative vid bro. also nice straight-forward common sense technique on the filing of only one side of the ring.your vid helped me further understand what I'm up against.keep doing you bro! I subbed.
Shalom
Thanks for the support!
Thanks man! Burning oil could be rings or valve seals, or possible headgasket but you'd also have other symptoms if it was the headgasket. Check your compression on all 4. If your compression is good, its likely that your burning oil is coming from the valve seals.
Hey that was great. Can you do some on single 4 stroke 125 ohc please ? I'm having compression problems even with a new barrel, new piston and rings.
For a V8, I recommend inviting some friends over, gets some burgers going, and turn on some good music, its going to be a while. There are really fancy filers available with dial indicators and powered wheels, but those are very expensive and not really worth it unless you'll be doing this a lot. You can get them done at a machine shop, but if you have time, then you can save some money doing it yourself. Good luck! Share your project on the facebook group, I'd love to see it!
Excellent job!!! You made it all crystal clear!!!
Yup, you're right, best way to store it is vertically to prevent any artificial warping. BUT, it looks cooler this way when you're shooting a video :)
Great video dude! The gap look a bit small to me but I used to working on bikes and they run a lot hotter. By the way, you should check you gap on the bottom, middle and top of your cylinder walls. You never know if it was bored and honed correctly.
Well, the goal is to run the 550s on a lower duty cycle. You build sounds sick, when do you plan on getting it all together?
Nicely explained! One question if I may; Why is it that you turn the file in the direction that you did? It seems counter intuitive. In my mind it makes sense to flip the ring over and rotate the file the other way, so that the ring is pushed into the tool and seats itself against the tool, thus being totally stable, instead of the tip wanting to lift off the tool and possibly vibrating.
Well done & helpful. Thanks for doing it!
Way cool video! I've built a few old turbo Dodge 2.2L/2.5L motors and I'd say you nailed the proper procedure. This is definitely something that you want to be completely anal about getting right 1st try. It's a pain to stand over your engine block with feeler gauges for such a long period of time, but worth it in the end.
+Jeremy Mitchell Thanks man! Yea, spending the time now really pays off in the finished product
Hello, very good video. I am rebuilding my nissan rd28. I never did nothing like that before. By mistake I filled too much the second rings on 2 of my pistos (this is a 6cyl engine) the manual says the gap should be between 0.20 to 0.35mm but I left them with 0.40mm. I cannot buy just 2 rings so I'd like to read your option whether I should buy a whole new set of rings just to get those 2 or I can go ahead and leave them like that and close the engine. thanks
Hey Krash, my KA is burning oil. lol May have to do an oem rebuild, so great jobs on these vids!
say I see you explained the process of gap and filling but can you add to a video on how to install all rings cause I would like to know how you set them on the piston and how in what position they go in the chainber thank you I liked your video.
The general concensus is you do it at the bottom of the bore about two inches up, the bore can be larger at the top than the bottom. Your ring gap may be good at the top but will be too tight measured at the bottom. When hot the rings will pinch up, possibly break and pick up on the bore
Depending on bore size and power level... the gaps may need to be larger or smaller, correct?
240sx owners are a huge family!
Very good Video. Tell, me, do you know how much larger your rings are, at rest sitting on the bench, that your cylinders?
Uncle Rice No I have not measured that
hello sir what if i make my block rebored? how to know the spec for the gap
very good video. very tedious looking for somebody with more cylinders such as a V8. do you have any recommendations for an alternative way to file the rings? Im doing a very budget rebuild on a Ford 302 block. every dollar counts but I would like to get them as best as I can
I have a 03 Dakota 4.7l I just got the block bored an i got new postings rings.do I have to shave my rings before I put them on the pistons. An why.i can't just put them ob if it is new??.ty
Check out the link in the description for the facebook group. Sweet channel dude!
so the objeective is to get the ring to just sit evenly within the blocks wall and it should work properly
also where are you getting the numbers for the feeler gauges for top and bottom rings
Nice explanation. How did the engine run ?
Awesome dude, keep pounding it out.
If it was a budget build I would have kept the stock internals. Cylinders were out of round so I had it matched and machined .020 over to the Wiseco pistons. The compression ratio is 9:1 as opposed to the 9.5:1 factory ratio, which is perfect for me as I won't be running high boost. deck surface was not machined because there was no warping present so the $200 to get the deck machined would have been a waste. I'm not using an mls headgasket either so I don't need a mirror finish on the surfaces.
Any tips to avoid scratching, how to file the ends for removing sharp edge? It's my first rebuild so I am a bit scared. Thanks.
Love your work dude. God bless.
Just to double check, you only file one side of the ring until spec is correct?
Absolutely AWESOME video! Very thorough and detailed; thanks for posting! I'll be checking out the rest of your channel. :-D
U have a thumbs up from me.keep it up
So whats the deal with the KA block? No offense but is it a cheap budget build? I just noticed that the deck surface looked untouched as far as machining goes, did you just freshen up the cyl. with a flex hone brush? And as far as the Wiseco pistons you bought, whats the compression ratio those babies are gonna give ya? Great job though!
Good information ! Subscribed !
I think I got carbon build up on my pistons in my 2001 Honda Odyssey. Can I do something to fix this at home or do I have to take it in to the shop? Is it an expensive job?
Look into seafoaming
We're on the same page sir, great minds think alike!
Question....
What grit did you use to file the rings?
Thanks
how 'bout the oil rings? i would be greatful if you make one about it.
when u got your block bored over did you get it resleeved as well (i am planning an boring my block .020 as well)
This engine doesn't have cylinder sleeves, so nope!
hello which is the piston ring orientasion for a honda civic vtec piston P2P, online that have different answers and diagrams,thank you
Yeah a new Vid Awesome !!!!!!
Does every ring manufacturer have their own gap recommendations?
Abubakari Sadique Ibrahim yes they do
@@Redantz864 thanks
Thanks!
Good job bro
Awesome videos! Glad I randomly found them.
Where did you buy those pre-bent feeler gauges?@4:00
I snap mine when I bend them, or I bend them in an arc shape :(
thanks man! I think they're craftsman gauges.
What about the 3 line inner ring mesher
when you get aftermarket pistons do they require different gap sizes then stock pistons?
yes, the ring gaps are specified by the manufacturer of the piston
Answer this for me do the top an bottom rings should have the same .018 fit
can valve seals cause low compression?
Hey I'm replacing stock rings on my vr6 do you recommend me doing this or should they be the correct spec
They should definitely be set to the manufacturers specs
Great video.
Indeed. And you might possibly burn oil as well
Really great vid!
Fantastic video.
Prakash, are you familiar with the differences in quality on rings between some of the major manufacturers of pistons such as Wiseco, CP, Arias and so on? I'm getting ready to build my VQ35DE (currently single turbo but on stock internals).
BlueonGoldZ I'll go into detail about this later, but I honestly cannot recommend Wiseco. Since you asked about rings, I'll share my experience with that. Wiseco has a chart that ships with their rings that helps you determine what end-gap you should use for your build. I followed this to choose my end-gaps. However, when I initially measured the gaps (out of the box) some of them were already bigger than what I needed. I had to go back and forth with JEGS about 3 times (paying shipping each time) before I received rings that I could file to the proper gap. Even though I have no experience with CP or Arias, I know people that do, and based on my experience with Wiseco I highly recommend CP or Arias.
Project Garage Oh wow. Do other manufacturers who make pistons ship their pistons with all the necessary rings included? Second question: As far as design and build quality of the pistons themsevles, are Wiseco good in your opinion? What about the other brands? Any I should stay away from for a boosted platform (staying to stock compression)
BlueonGoldZ The pistons from wiseco shipped with the correct rings included, however they were all already overgapped so I had to re-order rings a few times. The pistons themselves held up aside from one problem. The retaining clip that holds the wrist pin in the piston failed on one of my pistons. The wrist pin then slid out and created a huge gouge in the cylinder wall, pretty much trashing that block. I really would stay away from Wiseco, based on my experience.
Project Garage
Wow. Thank you for the info. How long ago was it that you had these issues with the retaining pins and the ring gaps? Asking to see if this was many years ago, perhaps their QC has gotten better.
Good fittings
Sweet video brother.
Why you want .018 ? .014 is full ok, or do you build up a race / blown engine ?
On normal street naturally aspirated enginges the formula says 0.004 * bore, which means to be .014 about.
Post some pics on the facebook group dude!
nice why don't you do a rebuild video
hey man do you know the color code of the 240
louis crespo which color?
i do it with a file but i've been doing this since i was a small kid..that tool would be much easier and worth the money tho
Cool video but one thing i don't get is must of this video's don't tell how to gap oil ring.
tried going to: facebook.com/groups/projectgarageforum/
cannot find the group.
i'd like to join.
please post the correct url.
That is the correct url
great
معلم ممكن سؤال
good effort
make your video short by reducing in unnecessary things like unboxing and degreasing etc.
If a valve seat sleeve fell down inside the cylinder, and bounced around like popcorn until it got crunched up into little bitty parts, and chewed up the top of the cylinder, and weakened the cylinder rod to the point of breaking, would you consider that bad engineering? Because that's what happened on my Ford Escort, and it seems to be a common design problem with the Ford Escort. The valve seat isn't fastened by anything, just jammed up in there tight.
I took the head off my car, cleaned everything up, got rid of all the crunchy bits, replaced the head, valves, gaskets, and everything, and put her back together, and she ran perfect for 2 minutes until the cylinder rod broke on the piston that had its head chewed up the most.
So is like Ford a reputable car company with a good history of building engines? Because I'm thinking not. And that I got screwed and sold a lemon with a purposefully designed in design defect.
Well, thats generally how valve seats are installed. They're press fit. I would assume your problem has to do with the valve seats not being made from the proper material. Different materials behave differently under heat. This may have been an oversight in the design stages where they assumed that the seat would last for "the life of the car". But I haven't really looked into it. Ford is a good company, especially recently. Actually, US automakers in general have really stepped up their game. However, 10-20 years ago, US cars weren't as reliable as they are today.
There is no way to tell the condition of the rod on a piston that is chewed up. You hope for the best that its just surface damage. Why? Because its an insane amount of work to get a front wheel drive car engine out of a small compact car, flip it over, take off the transmission, just to get to where you can even see the rods and take them out. A front wheel drive is absolutely piss poor design for user servicablility. Compare say the front wheel drive engine of my dead ford escort, packed in there like sardines in a can , where you can't cant even get your hand in there to change a drive belt (you have to take off a wheel to do so).... compare that to say a ford model A, where the engine is out in the open on all sides and if you want to do anything to it, its all right there in front of you.
I tell everybody I can to avoid front wheel drive cars because they are absolute crap. We have a field full of them my sister bought that ran for a few years then died. Nobody can fix them because it would cost an insane mount of time and money. And yet I myself am driving motorbikes and rear wheel drive cars still srom 1981/1983/1985. Thats 30 plus year old cars. How? Because if anything goes wrong on them, and it does, ts possible to get a tool in there and fix it, and worse case scenario, possible to take the engine out.
Ford knows different metals expand at different rates when heated or cooled. They've been in the engine building buisiness for a 100 years. There is no excuse for their valve seat design flaw. Im not the only one.. google "ford escort valve seat drop".
I'll never buy an American car again, and after experiencing how far easier it is to maintain a motorcycle, I'll probably never buy a car again period. They truely are inefficient aweful vehicles. They have their places and uses but for the vast majority of people a motorbike would be a much better choice, cheaper, more fuel efficient, less impact on the planets resources, easier to work on, less pollutuing, etc. With a car your basically paying through your nose at the pump to haul all that steel and glass and carpet around...
CHOPPERGIRL AIRWAR
Bikes are awesome....then it rains! LOL! How you go about comparing cars and bikes, did you ever managed to haul kids, furniture, lumber, equipments, and cargo boxes using your tiny bike??? LMAO!!!
Since that bailout money came into play in the American auto industry, American cars became very different and more reliable...totally different from your old Ford Escort. I can't understand your gripe with FWD cars...some guys can fix these cars even with their eyes closed. You're just not talented enough I guess.
I love bikes and all, but the practicality isn't the best. Having a bike and a car would be awesome, having just a car isn't bad, having just a bike would suck at times. I dont have to worry about distracted drivers killing me in my car. I can play with it in all kinds of weather. I dont have to suit up to drive it. A/C in the summer, heat in the winter. 25mpg, super fun to drive, there really isn't much to complain about. But really like Blitz said, you can't compare the two, they're totally different machines for totally different purposes so theres no point in really talking about it lol.
As far as FWD engines being hard to work on.... I can't really agree. I'm very biased, I love RWD cars and I'd never really buy a FWD car ever. I really dont enjoy driving FWD cars. But I find them a lot easier to work on. Pulling the engine is a breeze because all of the mounts are super accessible for the most part and the transmission isn't under the car... Aside from the serpentine belt and water pump, mostly everything you'd work on is staring at you. It gets kind of stuffed with FWD V6 engines, but FWD inline 4s are a breeze.
As far as american cars, they're great. Things really have turned around for american companies. The old 90's views on american cars being unreliable are pretty irrelevant. We've always made good trucks, we've know how to make a damn good V8. And now we're churning out some pretty reliable and fun cars. Its your choice whether you want to buy them or not, but we do make some good cars now. You seem very firm in your opinions so I'll let you know I'm not trying to argue, but things have changed since your escort came out.
Anyway, whether its bikes or cars or whatever, as long as your enjoying what you're doing, keep at it!
need more light good sir
Dont leave the crank laying like that! :)
هلو
"Why Sec O" ? lol
Not Wa-se-co... it's Wise-co.....
The word "gaping" reminds me of.....nevermind
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Don k west
good thing u have a white wall behind :D
Great video with great info!
Where can I get that filer