Thanks IronHorse! I watch a few saw builders here on UA-cam to learn the tricks of the trade. The knowledge you share is above and beyond what others have. When you post you got my full attention. It has given me the green light to do some work on my saws. For that, I must thank you! keep em coming, much appreciated.
I would recommend watching the series by Scott Kruntz, aka Tree Monkey, a port legend The man has probably forgotten more than what all of us combined will learn.
Great educational video i am in Northern Ireland and there is nobody porting saws so you have to give it a go yourself so this information is invaluable. By the way stihl and Husqvarna chainsaws are all on back order. Bought a 572 two months ago after waiting months, 462 stilh was nowhere to be got. But wanted 572 .
Hey buddy..nice info on the important things..gotta keep them in tolerance to make them last..finally a good rain here last night..been dry since end of May..log prices down some because of it..
Thanks Harvey; good info the way you explained this glad you and I talked about this and also good to make sure your ring ends are square and not a tight spot on either outside or inside edges....tight ring gap on any engine will be devastating of the ends ever touch in the least bit
This is great info.. seriously we appreciate it. You’re absolutely correct there is many ways to build a saw and every builder is different. I’m just glad there’s people willing to share info.
Thank you for another great educational video. I must be unlucky on new aftermarket cylinder/piston/ring kits. lol. With the kits that I have used as of late, the ring gaps has been averaging from 9 thou to 15 thou. So far they all have run pretty good and still hold compression.
Excellent practical simple tools and Harvey you're spot on! Cleaning and fitting is up most importance. That's fitter and turners do regards to all your followers Endre
Gotta big bore 372 with a 272 pop up piston of my own on my bench right now, still trying to figure out exactly what numbers I want to run on that setup for a 28" bar in mixed wood types.
Blokes in the engine world use an old piston with the top ring fitted, other wise they have special tools you can use to set the ring in the correct spot
Clamp a file in a vise or to a table and drag the ring end on flat side of the file take a little off each ring end and make it so that when ring is in the bore you have a equal gap on outside closest to bore and to the inside closest to center of the bore usually if not filed you will have a tight spot closest to the cylinder wall
Awsome video! speaking of rings can you talk more about the different type of ring materials like cast and where and why you'd use one over another Thank love the videos!
World, WAKE up and pay attention to the educational message the Professor IRONHORSE has to tell you today in his Advanced Chain Saw Study's...!!! You have been a Blessing to everyone in all community's worldwide IRONHORSE!!!
Depending on what is being used, cylinder design, ring type, and piston material dictates my ring end-gap. I typically use the .0035" x bore for ring gap... Another area I check which can be suspect at times is the piston ring grooves... some shallow, some aren't concentric to the piston O.D. i also check the ring to grove height clearance... I've used blade mics to check ring groove depths... IMO... That's kinda important to know if you're running a tight ring-end-gap and especially when building a saw where piston expansion is greater due to the composition.
this is a timely video for me. need to order a piston for a mid 80's 028AV Super. the cylinder and the old piston are both marked "C" on top. using a snap gauge and micrometer the cylinder bore measures 45.00 to 46.00 mm. all I can find is A, B and AB pistons. prefer to get a NOS OEM piston if possible. any advice will be appreciated.
Put your 3and4 together Harvey that’s 7! 😂😂😂😂😜👍😎😎😎. Awesome video… I hope every guy building a saw see’s this one!!! It’s imperative that this gets done!!!!
Than na for the great entertainment. Off topic question. I have a new stihl MS261. Bought a 28" bar for milling. With a chain with 3/8 pitch .063 gauge. . My 261 is .325 drive gear. Is there 2 sizes of 7 spline drive gears ? I bought a 2pack & they are to big to fit on
Hey IronHorse I have few older saws I run that noticed carbon build up on the exhaust port and top of cylinder what steps should I take to pro long the life of my saws? I’m just starting to work on saws over the past couple years Love watching your videos, I’m from Ontario, Canada
Mr Harvey can you please tell me whats the proper way to change a stihl 044 metal tag and them small rivets how do you pein them rivets without damaging the cover lol got any suggestions
Is Nickasil a good brand? I see Nickasil cylinders on eBay for cheap. Could you recommend good brands for Stihl chainsaws? Any others that are good value, durable, dimensionally correct etc.?
Hello harvy got a question for u I just got done building a 272xp I gave it a very miled port job put it together it ran great plenty of pep it was running great 5th tank of gas it locked up so I took it apart and found one of the wrist pin clips fell out and destroyed the piston and jug I know for a fact they both were all the way in I checked twice my question is what do u suggest using for those clips I sertenly don't want it to lock up again Thank u so mutch for ur time
Harvey, am I in the wrong to do my porting then clean up the intake,transfers,exhaust, cylinder and cleaning then do my fitment? Thanks for your great videos. Glad to see you out in the shop and I'm surprised you have time for these videos right now with your great garden probably producing daily.
A dial bore gauge is the only tool to use for measuring piston/bore clearance. Feeler gauges will give you a VERY incorrect reading. Feeler gauges are for ring gap.
You can also use a spring telescoping bore gage. Not “as” accurate as a dial bore gage but considerably less expensive and more accurate than a feeler gage. I think I paid 20 for a set of Pittsburgh from harbor freight.
Hey,I enjoy your videos they are very informative. I just received an stihl 044 in new condition. I was wondering how do you tell the difference in a 12 mm vs a 10 mm wrist pin? Which is better?
Thanks IRONHORSE.. Just received new ring for an old Husky 350 and their to big!! they fit in the cylinder but overlap by a hair, Is there a way to grind a bit off? thanks.
Hey people of the internet can I get help just did a farmertec 52mm big on a farmertec 372 ,cylinder cut down to 0.23 squish with a 2 ring piston and for the life of me I can not pull it over to start it , I think the chinese decompression valve is not up to the so I'm thinking a valve off a 392xp will do but what do you guys think
I still want to race one ur 660’s tho. U can Have Colin run it for ya. I would never expect to race one of our Sr. Vets. WAy to much of an advantage for me if I wAs. I have better stance back arm leverage. Ya know. Just wouldn’t be right. Set it up bud and I knock it right down. Hey here ya go-- COME ON BIG BOY!!!!
If you can’t put the dang thing over you sound definitely check it out…you can file a little gap in your ring’s and get your compression down around 150 or so and have a great running saw that you can start…. The super high compression saw’s are great fun in the summer time having a couple sud’s and cutting firewood with your buddies… but when is 20 degrees outside and your saw’s been sitting on a shelf in the barn for the winter… pulling over your 180-190 psi race-saw so you can cut the tree out of your driveway ain’t gonna be no fun at-tall!!! That little clamshell ms250 or husky 350 with 140psi compression will pop right off on the second ripper and go get the work done!!! Timing the weight off the pistons and removing the rotational mass has helped me make more power than any other mod’s I’ve done or it’s definitely worth it weight in gold…or it’s weight loss in gold for that matter!!!! LMFFAO
Mr Harvey I love ya and your a great man and i have alot of respect for ya .. But Highway parts and me lol do not get along lol. im sorry i got to be honest and ill tell ya im building a Stihl 044 full build and i bought a new highway duel port muffler and all the holes on the muffler didnt even line up properly with the crankcase was terrible i had to go buy a used oem muffler and it fit fine.
Thanks IronHorse! I watch a few saw builders here on UA-cam to learn the tricks of the trade. The knowledge you share is above and beyond what others have. When you post you got my full attention. It has given me the green light to do some work on my saws. For that, I must thank you! keep em coming, much appreciated.
I would recommend watching the series by Scott Kruntz, aka Tree Monkey, a port legend
The man has probably forgotten more than what all of us combined will learn.
Harvey! You’re a bloody gem.
Been a lover and supporter of your channel for a few years.
Thank you for your time and contributions ❤️
No 1 channel for chainsaw information from a No 1 gentleman, thank from NZ.
I love learning from guys just like you!!!
Great educational video i am in Northern Ireland and there is nobody porting saws so you have to give it a go yourself so this information is invaluable. By the way stihl and Husqvarna chainsaws are all on back order. Bought a 572 two months ago after waiting months, 462 stilh was nowhere to be got. But wanted 572 .
"Sometimes we have to learn what not to do". Amen and thank you for the lesson!
ur my go to for chainsaw education im able to fix my own saws an increase power of my work saws , thanks Harv hope ur doing better
Hey buddy..nice info on the important things..gotta keep them in tolerance to make them last..finally a good rain here last night..been dry since end of May..log prices down some because of it..
Thanks Harvey; good info the way you explained this glad you and I talked about this and also good to make sure your ring ends are square and not a tight spot on either outside or inside edges....tight ring gap on any engine will be devastating of the ends ever touch in the least bit
This is great info.. seriously we appreciate it. You’re absolutely correct there is many ways to build a saw and every builder is different. I’m just glad there’s people willing to share info.
Thank you for another great educational video. I must be unlucky on new aftermarket cylinder/piston/ring kits. lol. With the kits that I have used as of late, the ring gaps has been averaging from 9 thou to 15 thou. So far they all have run pretty good and still hold compression.
Fantastic information - keep it coming. This knowhow is priceless.
Excellent practical simple tools and Harvey you're spot on! Cleaning and fitting is up most importance. That's fitter and turners do regards to all your followers Endre
Ironhorse ,a great teacher !!👍🏻🇦🇺
Thanks for sharing some of the tricks. 😎👍
Where do you get your ball hones?
Gotta big bore 372 with a 272 pop up piston of my own on my bench right now, still trying to figure out exactly what numbers I want to run on that setup for a 28" bar in mixed wood types.
Blokes in the engine world use an old piston with the top ring fitted, other wise they have special tools you can use to set the ring in the correct spot
Always good information 💁♀️
Harvey, you're definitely the chainsaw whisperer!
Great video and information. Your the best.
Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge as always sir. Be safe and be careful
Nice video, thanks Ironhorse. If you put the .003 and the .004 feelers together they should be close to .007!
You are the best!!!
Thank you Harv!!!
Thank you sir! So if your rings are too tight, how do you widen the gap? File ends of rings? Thanks
another useful vid w/ practical info. how do you modify (file) the piston ring to change your gap ? what tools do you use ? txs
Clamp a file in a vise or to a table and drag the ring end on flat side of the file take a little off each ring end and make it so that when ring is in the bore you have a equal gap on outside closest to bore and to the inside closest to center of the bore usually if not filed you will have a tight spot closest to the cylinder wall
Awsome video! speaking of rings can you talk more about the different type of ring materials like cast and where and why you'd use one over another Thank love the videos!
Thanks Harvey. Always learn a lot from your videos 😊
Great info, thanks Harvey.
Now I need to get a few more tools lol
World, WAKE up and pay attention to the educational message the Professor IRONHORSE has to tell you today in his Advanced Chain Saw Study's...!!!
You have been a Blessing to everyone in all community's worldwide IRONHORSE!!!
Depending on what is being used, cylinder design, ring type, and piston material dictates my ring end-gap.
I typically use the .0035" x bore for ring gap...
Another area I check which can be suspect at times is the piston ring grooves... some shallow, some aren't concentric to the piston O.D. i also check the ring to grove height clearance...
I've used blade mics to check ring groove depths...
IMO... That's kinda important to know if you're running a tight ring-end-gap and especially when building a saw where piston expansion is greater due to the composition.
Thanks for the video! Would the correct ring gap for a Stihl 40mm cylinder be around .0006?
this is a timely video for me. need to order a piston for a mid 80's 028AV Super. the cylinder and the old piston are both marked "C" on top. using a snap gauge and micrometer the cylinder bore measures 45.00 to 46.00 mm. all I can find is A, B and AB pistons. prefer to get a NOS OEM piston if possible. any advice will be appreciated.
Put your 3and4 together Harvey that’s 7! 😂😂😂😂😜👍😎😎😎. Awesome video… I hope every guy building a saw see’s this one!!! It’s imperative that this gets done!!!!
As always, great video.
Awesome stuff! Do you know if a 2012 660 would be chrome or nikasil?
Than na for the great entertainment.
Off topic question.
I have a new stihl MS261.
Bought a 28" bar for milling. With a chain with 3/8 pitch .063 gauge. . My 261 is .325 drive gear. Is there 2 sizes of 7 spline drive gears ? I bought a 2pack & they are to big to fit on
Hey IronHorse I have few older saws I run that noticed carbon build up on the exhaust port and top of cylinder what steps should I take to pro long the life of my saws? I’m just starting to work on saws over the past couple years
Love watching your videos,
I’m from Ontario, Canada
Brilliant video thank you
Mr Harvey can you please tell me whats the proper way to change a stihl 044 metal tag and them small rivets how do you pein them rivets without damaging the cover lol got any suggestions
Is Nickasil a good brand? I see Nickasil cylinders on eBay for cheap. Could you recommend good brands for Stihl chainsaws? Any others that are good value, durable, dimensionally correct etc.?
Thank you, much appreciated info
Hello harvy got a question for u I just got done building a 272xp I gave it a very miled port job put it together it ran great plenty of pep it was running great 5th tank of gas it locked up so I took it apart and found one of the wrist pin clips fell out and destroyed the piston and jug I know for a fact they both were all the way in I checked twice my question is what do u suggest using for those clips I sertenly don't want it to lock up again Thank u so mutch for ur time
Best video ever
Non pas trop vieux juste de l'expérience 😄😄😄😄😄
Harvey, am I in the wrong to do my porting then clean up the intake,transfers,exhaust, cylinder and cleaning then do my fitment? Thanks for your great videos. Glad to see you out in the shop and I'm surprised you have time for these videos right now with your great garden probably producing daily.
A dial bore gauge is the only tool to use for measuring piston/bore clearance. Feeler gauges will give you a VERY incorrect reading. Feeler gauges are for ring gap.
As I stated in the video!
You can also use a spring telescoping bore gage. Not “as” accurate as a dial bore gage but considerably less expensive and more accurate than a feeler gage. I think I paid 20 for a set of Pittsburgh from harbor freight.
Use 2 - .003 + .004 = .007
right
That's what I was wondering too
Hey,I enjoy your videos they are very informative. I just received an stihl 044 in new condition. I was wondering how do you tell the difference in a 12 mm vs a 10 mm wrist pin? Which is better?
10mm is stronger and has a different sound. Just my 2c from owning both versions
Thanks IRONHORSE..
Just received new ring for an old Husky 350 and their to big!! they fit in the cylinder but overlap by a hair, Is there a way to grind a bit off? thanks.
Yes! You can file fit your rings!
Good info definitely
sorry, the cyl bore measures 45.99 to 46.00 mm. not what I wrote below. thanks!
I’ve noticed that you use mostly pistons with one ring. Do they make them with 2 rings?
Also, have you considered using zero gap rings?
Hey people of the internet can I get help just did a farmertec 52mm big on a farmertec 372 ,cylinder cut down to 0.23 squish with a 2 ring piston and for the life of me I can not pull it over to start it , I think the chinese decompression valve is not up to the so I'm thinking a valve off a 392xp will do but what do you guys think
so what would the gap be for 37cc chainsaw
Roughly .004 - .005 thousandth
I can’t wait to see the odie wans built 660 running in the wood😏
I still want to race one ur 660’s tho. U can Have Colin run it for ya. I would never expect to race one of our Sr. Vets. WAy to much of an advantage for me if I wAs. I have better stance back arm leverage. Ya know. Just wouldn’t be right. Set it up bud and I knock it right down. Hey here ya go-- COME ON BIG BOY!!!!
I’d like to see ya run Jonny Nitro aka - 🐔 💩 😂😂😂 …
If you can’t put the dang thing over you sound definitely check it out…you can file a little gap in your ring’s and get your compression down around 150 or so and have a great running saw that you can start…. The super high compression saw’s are great fun in the summer time having a couple sud’s and cutting firewood with your buddies… but when is 20 degrees outside and your saw’s been sitting on a shelf in the barn for the winter… pulling over your 180-190 psi race-saw so you can cut the tree out of your driveway ain’t gonna be no fun at-tall!!! That little clamshell ms250 or husky 350 with 140psi compression will pop right off on the second ripper and go get the work done!!! Timing the weight off the pistons and removing the rotational mass has helped me make more power than any other mod’s I’ve done or it’s definitely worth it weight in gold…or it’s weight loss in gold for that matter!!!! LMFFAO
Mr Harvey I love ya and your a great man and i have alot of respect for ya .. But Highway parts and me lol do not get along lol. im sorry i got to be honest and ill tell ya im building a Stihl 044 full build and i bought a new highway duel port muffler and all the holes on the muffler didnt even line up properly with the crankcase was terrible i had to go buy a used oem muffler and it fit fine.
all good have you cut down on gum ????
Iron horse can we talk about you making a muffler for me please?