Good video. I used one of those pumps at first and tried a lot of things to reduce noise. I then switched to an audi A4 electric brake pump. Cheaply available on ebay and are virtually silent. I too had a problem with the pump turning on and off a lot. It turned out to be vacuum leaking back through the pump. I had to use a non return valve but this was not a problem with the audi pump.
Audi from the 90s have vacuum controlled door locks. The pump is located under the rear seat and capsuled in standard car seat foam. It works pretty well. Perhaps you should try that too? Otherwise it sounds like you have a tiny gas engine under the hood hehe :P
@BlackandChrome No, I should have done that now that you mention it. Strangely, the debris that got stuck in the valve wasn't a chip from drilling the tank, it was something else.
The better quality pump as a ring made from a type of graphite if i'm not mistaken. I had a very similar one on a hand held 18v pump. It was filled with white grease.
@superdau The only requirement for an inspection I can find is when insuring the car for the first time after changing the fuel type (converting the car to electric). After that, I believe the user is responsible for keeping it road worthy.
My house central vacuum intake muffler uses a concept of a soft foam tube inside a long cylinder so the air flow is not impeded by fiber or tissue bunching. I think my DVR hard drive could use some of your rubber tube feet isolators.
Excellent video on a brake vacuum pump installation. Just out of curiosity, wouldn't the vacuum pump better be connected straight to the vacuum reservoir, via a check valve, then the other connection at the reservoir onto the brake booster? The check valves will keep a sealed system until such a time as vacuum is depleted by applying the brakes. The vacuum switch could then be teed anywhere in the line between the check valves so that it detects vacuum loss to start the pump again.
@joeyf504327 Yep, it's deceptively small, the actual motor is about 2cm smaller in diameter than the casing, there's a bunch of air space around it on the inside. I am driving it, it's just a little annoying having the pump come on every brake press.
I realize this video is old, but the whole series so far is quite interesting. Have you changed the vacuum switch to remedy this as you'd mentioned in the video? If not, perhaps something simple like a normally closed relay opened by power from the brake switch could interrupt the vacuum switch power input or output only while the brakes are applied :)
@DanFrederiksen The AGC was off (same gain) for all the audio tests. I've heard of those other pumps too, from the VW Rabbit in particular, but I couldn't find any cheaper than this one.
@joeyf504327 The pump actually had thinner wire originally, I removed the poor wiring job it came with and replaced it with some 14AWG wire. The red wire is 18AWG, which is fine for the 3.5A the pump draws.
uh sorry nother question what gauge wire is that running from the battery to the switch? it looks like 12 or 10 gauge coming off the pump and then the red looks like 16 or dare i say 18 gauge to the switch from the battery
really good video. on the last audio test, was the audio gain the same? or just not autogain. and I've heard there are vacuum pumps in some diesel cars that should be suited for automotive use directly. and may be cheaper too.
Hey, excellent HD video. I have a question about the duration of operation to get to your (switch) setting of 21in Hg. With it set up operationally, including tank and brake booster connected, how long does your pump take to reach the target vacuum level?
@tesla500 the extra space probably keeps the motor pretty cool i would guess what is the equivalent mpg your getting i think you mentioned it but not sure
@tesla500 oh ok i thought is drew a lot more only 42 watts for that big of a motor thats not bad is it working fine when you drive around or are you gong to wait for the higher vacuum switch?
Are you allowed to drive on public roads after making such changes? Here in Austria/Germany you have to go to the DMV for almost every change on a car and get the changes safety checked and registered (which actually makes me feel safer, as I know many people who definitely don't know what they are doing ;) ).
Hi! First of all i want to tell i'm impressed about the job you've done converting your car to an electric vehicle, but i was thinking that at least here in europe diesel cars, since they don't have a throttle body and therefore they don't make any vacuum in the inlet manifold they rely on a small vacuum rotative vane pump to operate the power braking; they are usually mounted on the cylinder head of the engine and take the motion from a camshaft. Maybe that was perfect foy your applicatios.Bye!
Did you blow the thread chips out of the tank before installing it? That will definitely cause problems with those valves, a filter will without a doubt solve it though.
You said you were running manual brakes since your car is so light. Whats the weight of it? My car is 3500 lbs give or take and undecided if I want to go with manual or power brakes.
This car is very light, about 2000 pounds including batteries. This is about the upper limit of what I'd consider reasonably comfortable to use without power brakes.
Could you do a general update of the car :) ? I am really interested in how it's doing, and do you think, considering the cost of the batteries, controller, motor etc, that it is cost effective to convert a swift to electric instead running the original engine :) ?
@superdau The only requirement for an inspection I can find is when insuring the car for the first time after changing the fuel type (converting the car to electric). After that, I believe the user is responsible for keeping it road worthy.
Thanks a lot for making this video you can't believe how much you helped me.
Good video. I used one of those pumps at first and tried a lot of things to reduce noise. I then switched to an audi A4 electric brake pump. Cheaply available on ebay and are virtually silent. I too had a problem with the pump turning on and off a lot. It turned out to be vacuum leaking back through the pump. I had to use a non return valve but this was not a problem with the audi pump.
Good video. Thank you for showing the difference in audio between different damping materials. Interesting. :)
I have enjoyed watching all your videos. Top work look forward to some new vids soon.
Audi from the 90s have vacuum controlled door locks. The pump is located under the rear seat and capsuled in standard car seat foam. It works pretty well. Perhaps you should try that too? Otherwise it sounds like you have a tiny gas engine under the hood hehe :P
@BlackandChrome No, I should have done that now that you mention it. Strangely, the debris that got stuck in the valve wasn't a chip from drilling the tank, it was something else.
The better quality pump as a ring made from a type of graphite if i'm not mistaken. I had a very similar one on a hand held 18v pump. It was filled with white grease.
@superdau The only requirement for an inspection I can find is when insuring the car for the first time after changing the fuel type (converting the car to electric). After that, I believe the user is responsible for keeping it road worthy.
Best video on the tube. Thanks for this. Helped more than you know!
you a a prinsess auto!!!!, by far the best store ever!!!!
My house central vacuum intake muffler uses a concept of a soft foam tube inside a long cylinder so the air flow is not impeded by fiber or tissue bunching. I think my DVR hard drive could use some of your rubber tube feet isolators.
The piston ring is usually teflon. If they're built right they can have "okay" durability. I'd expect the diaphragm one to last longer.
I might suggest that the caps be drilled before they are glued in place. Won't have to worry about chips.
Excellent video on a brake vacuum pump installation. Just out of curiosity, wouldn't the vacuum pump better be connected straight to the vacuum reservoir, via a check valve, then the other connection at the reservoir onto the brake booster? The check valves will keep a sealed system until such a time as vacuum is depleted by applying the brakes. The vacuum switch could then be teed anywhere in the line between the check valves so that it detects vacuum loss to start the pump again.
@joeyf504327 Yep, it's deceptively small, the actual motor is about 2cm smaller in diameter than the casing, there's a bunch of air space around it on the inside. I am driving it, it's just a little annoying having the pump come on every brake press.
I realize this video is old, but the whole series so far is quite interesting. Have you changed the vacuum switch to remedy this as you'd mentioned in the video? If not, perhaps something simple like a normally closed relay opened by power from the brake switch could interrupt the vacuum switch power input or output only while the brakes are applied :)
@DanFrederiksen The AGC was off (same gain) for all the audio tests.
I've heard of those other pumps too, from the VW Rabbit in particular, but I couldn't find any cheaper than this one.
@joeyf504327 The pump actually had thinner wire originally, I removed the poor wiring job it came with and replaced it with some 14AWG wire. The red wire is 18AWG, which is fine for the 3.5A the pump draws.
A Filter dryer from an A?C System may also quieten down the discharge too!
uh sorry nother question what gauge wire is that running from the battery to the switch? it looks like 12 or 10 gauge coming off the pump and then the red looks like 16 or dare i say 18 gauge to the switch from the battery
really good video. on the last audio test, was the audio gain the same? or just not autogain.
and I've heard there are vacuum pumps in some diesel cars that should be suited for automotive use directly. and may be cheaper too.
Hey, excellent HD video. I have a question about the duration of operation to get to your (switch) setting of 21in Hg. With it set up operationally, including tank and brake booster connected, how long does your pump take to reach the target vacuum level?
@tesla500 the extra space probably keeps the motor pretty cool i would guess what is the equivalent mpg your getting i think you mentioned it but not sure
@tesla500 oh ok i thought is drew a lot more only 42 watts for that big of a motor thats not bad is it working fine when you drive around or are you gong to wait for the higher vacuum switch?
Are you allowed to drive on public roads after making such changes? Here in Austria/Germany you have to go to the DMV for almost every change on a car and get the changes safety checked and registered (which actually makes me feel safer, as I know many people who definitely don't know what they are doing ;) ).
Hi! First of all i want to tell i'm impressed about the job you've done converting your car to an electric vehicle, but i was thinking that at least here in europe diesel cars, since they don't have a throttle body and therefore they don't make any vacuum in the inlet manifold they rely on a small vacuum rotative vane pump to operate the power braking; they are usually mounted on the cylinder head of the engine and take the motion from a camshaft. Maybe that was perfect foy your applicatios.Bye!
Did you blow the thread chips out of the tank before installing it? That will definitely cause problems with those valves, a filter will without a doubt solve it though.
I would suggest using a small vacuum tank with it and a pressure switch
Where did u put the piece with the 2 screws and the rubber part at for the noise
Hi, did You ever think aboud simply change You main hydrolic cylinder with a different sise ? This is match economicer !
You said you were running manual brakes since your car is so light. Whats the weight of it? My car is 3500 lbs give or take and undecided if I want to go with manual or power brakes.
This car is very light, about 2000 pounds including batteries. This is about the upper limit of what I'd consider reasonably comfortable to use without power brakes.
What is the make and model # of that pump?
Could you do a general update of the car :) ? I am really interested in how it's doing, and do you think, considering the cost of the batteries, controller, motor etc, that it is cost effective to convert a swift to electric instead running the original engine :) ?
I'd done it in Veritto. Its successfully commercially working on road...
some newer Volvo's use electric vacuum pumps, maybe one of those would be better?
yay Princess Auto!
@superdau The only requirement for an inspection I can find is when insuring the car for the first time after changing the fuel type (converting the car to electric). After that, I believe the user is responsible for keeping it road worthy.