Yes Sir, ver cool set-up! I’d purchased the same led brakes vacuum pump In chrome. The slight vacuum drop-off will cease when the pump gets broken-in. Mine did similar, after a week or so the vacuum stopped the slight drop-off in value. Great set-up for safety Sir, cool ride too!
Just want to do a short follow-up on my previous post. The Leed vac pump arrived and is installed in my engine bay. A little fabrication was needed and it is tucked partially under the right front side of the car by the charcoal canister. With 6' of vac hose the line was routed with my AC lines and then cuts across the back of my Pontiac engine to the booster. Electric lines were tucked between the right inner fender and the fender and cuts across to the back by the engine's HEI. The power source is the 12v source to the HEI. All electrical wires were shrouded in split corrugated plastic loom tubing. The negative ground is on the intake manifold. New system works. So far, I am very happy as the supply of vacuum is clearly helping the braking action. By the way, it is whisper quiet compared to the pump style I previously had on the car years earlier.
I watched this video a few weeks ago while searching for options on vacuum pumps instead of just replacing the piston pump I installed, that recently locked up. The piston pump never gave me decent braking. I thought the only option was going to be a hydo-boost system. I took Troy's advice and ordered the bandit pump, installed it on 70 Chevelle with very stout 454. I did reuse my existing vacuum canister that I have tucked away in the fender well. Well, I test drove it today. Best brakes that car has had in 10 years, since I had the race shop rebuild the engine! Very quiet pump compared to the old piston pump. FYI - I emailed Leed brakes prior to ordering, the Bandit pump can be mounted vertical or horizontal. Thanks for the video, Troy
@@TCDawg91 - If you email Leed brakes, they will answer your question. I emailed them about mounting the pump, they were quick to respond. I previously had a reservoir on mine so I kept in in place, didn't try the brakes with pump alone. But I can say, this pump was the answer to my Chevelle's brake issues with high HP engine.
2 very good looking cars I'm going to order my vacuum pump now this is the second video I've seen on the leeds pump so now I can drive my car in peace thanks for the video BTW that is the cleanest 1st gen charger I've ever seen
Just a quick follow-up to my previous posts. The cycling of the Leeds Black Bandit ( I have the naked version) was cycling almost without a break. When the unit gets to the predetermined vac it shuts the pump off. I traced the 3/8" vac line back from the booster to the pump after disconnecting it from the booster's check valve. It turns out that the vacuum line was leaking. The OEM hose used on my 79 Trans Am from the engine to the check valve looked like 3/8" vac line but it is actually smaller at 11/32. The line was leaking, plain and simple. So, the vac line will be replaced with the smaller diameter vac line soon. The simplest way to check for cycling is to put the pump in the on position at the key switch and then using your thumb cover the open end of the vac line. When it gets to the predetermined vac pressure the unit will stop running. This was how I diagnosed the near constant running of the pump. Hope this helps others. Thank you Troy for your input back to me, below.
What's up buddy glad I saw your video I have a 2011 Camaro SS Inferno Orange I love the car it has 120,000 miles on it buying a new car would have been through much money for insurance and to pay off $50,000 so I gave it to my mechanic I bought all the parts Brian Tooley stage 2 cam crank Pistons oil pump water pump push rods had the heads ported and Polished new valves crank Pistons cost me about $15,000 need a vacuum pump all those other pumps sounds like your engine is knocking ridiculous would never even attempt to buy one of them so I saw your video did some research and I just ordered the Bandit from Amazon enclosed in a chrome canister looks really sharp should have the car back by the middle of next week the car is a beast thank you for the video really appreciate it it was $399 not that bad I guess
I like this. I have a mechanical vacuum pump on my 1981 Mercedes 240d. They are becoming very rare and the parts for fixing them are starting to become rare. This will solve my issues.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This is a very good clarifying video. I have the same problem with my 73 Chrysler imperial generating only 10 inches of vacuum. I’ll go for this. Thank you.
I installed the pump correctly but it do not turn off or pump enough pressure, the master cylinder is new do the size of the master cylinder have anything to do with this ?
I could really use something like this. I have a gm truck with a Magnuson 1900. From my understanding the blower works off of vacuum would you know if this pump would effect performance of blower?
Your supercharger is pushing air into the engine. Without the supercharger the engine is sucking in air, which is vacuum. Therefore you esentially have no vacuum with a supercharger in boost. So yes this would be an alternative source of vacuum to run your brakes and I would highly recomend it.
I just had my Pontiac 400 engine rebuilt a couple years back for my 1978 Trans Am. The engine builder installed a very lopey cam. Ever since the rebuild, I have had almost no brakes and the throttle response is poor. The engine is built to produce a little over 400 hp, nothing too crazy, but good power. Do you think this pump would cure my issues?
Yes more than likely if the booster is receiving low vacuum. Best way to know is to test the engine vacuum with a vacuum gauge. Test the brake booster as well. As far as the poor throttle response, that could be a lot of things. I would work on the vacuum system first. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks in all the connections and hoses. Carb cleaner sprayed on the hoses and connections will show a leak by the engine sound. Spray listen for the engine to increase in idle speed. If so you have a leak. If not, no leak. Good luck
Hey Troy what's up I recently left you a comment about the Camaro that I rebuilt and I need a vacuum pump well I ordered it I got it it came today really nice looks nice heavy duty the only thing I'm not too thrilled about it being a plastic canister when I ordered it it didn't say anywhere anything about being plastic it just said Chrome or black so you here Chrome right away so you think it's metal well anyway it's the most quietest one out there on the market see how it is when I install it thank you for the video
Thanks buddy, I have been struggling with the same vacuum issue on my 65 Mercury Comet with a 460 big block and healthy cam. Your video was very helpful and I am replacing my noisy rotary pump with a Leeds. Thanks for the video.
You don't need the extra tank. But it does provide reserve vacuum. And yes you will have brake brakes during engine off condition, engine has nothing to do with brake vacuum with this system.
Thanks for the input. I never thought about including that in the video. As you can imagine going from 10 inches of vacuum to over 20 made such a great improvement on the brakes.
I've had my Lee's vac pump on my TA for a year. The concern I have is the cycling of the unit. It emits a high pitched sound when running and the pump seems to run without shutting off for any length of time. Troy, I know you have a separate can to help store vac and I am wondering if your unit is cycling constantly. No leaks have been detected. Need your thoughts on this. Thanks.
Thanks for the question. My question to you is what are you running vacuum to power? I will assume a power brake booster. I would test that booster to see if will retain vacuum. Same goes for any other vacuum accessories you may be connected to. I would also test the pump by capping the suction port let it run and see how it reacts. Good Luck
Ok the pump will provide a consistant source of vacuum. This will be perfect for a brake booster. However this is not something to connect to a tranmission modulator. The modulator needs vacuum from the engine to allow the transmission to shift properly.
Excellent and very helpful video. I too have low manifold vacuum (11" of Mercury at idle) and my Trans Am's power brakes are not doing very well. Just ordered a Leed Brakes unit to bolster the vac to my brake booster. Quick vacuum and quiet operation sold me. Thanks for the tip.
Great video! I installed my pump the other day and I’m having a bit of an issue. It’s makes 25Hg of vacuum very quickly, however it will not shut off. Once it hits 25-26Hg the gauge will bounce back to 20 or 15Hg and then right back up to 25Hg. I’ve checked the voltage, the ground and the power source and all are good. There are no leaks in the lines, just cannot figure out why it won’t shut off.
Hi Troy, beautiful car. I have this pump on my 69 El Camino because the LS I put in it only produces 10in of vacuum at idle with the cam that is in it. The pump is very quiet and works very well for the most part, but sometimes when I hit the brakes, I have no brake assist which is a very scary situation when you have to stop in an emergency. When I put a vacuum gauge on it, it pumps to 22in and turns off but will not turn back on until it reaches 10 or 12in which is not enough for my power brakes. I suspect it is the switch that is bad, from what I have found online this is a fairly common problem with this pump. Do you think the switch is my problem and are you aware of others having this problem with the switch? Thanks in advance
Another great video thank you, very informative to guys that have bought that same pump which I’m assuming is the same one I have in my Chevelle made by SSB. You are absolutely right that pump is very noisy and rattles everything around it, I just don’t leave the key on without the engine running that way I don’t have to hear it. About every 4-5 years I replace the rubber lines because of cracks from engine heat.
A few things... First your Charger is beautiful! The attention to detail on all the wiring and bracketry, plus how clean it is, astonishing. Well done! Second, thanks for the video. I'm having about the same issue with my Cutlass. Vacuum is roughly 10 - 11 inches, brakes are hard as a rock and the brakes are scary on the highway. After bumping up the idle to make 14 in, it's not producing enough PSI at the calipers. I was looking into the rotary style pumps for a while, it might be time to bite the bullet. This video is about 9 months old, do you have an updates / opinions on the product now that you've used it?
Hello Scott, Thanks for watching and commenting. This pump is the best remedy. Brakes are spot on all the time. No regrets, I wouldn't hesitate to use this product on another build. Best of luck, Troy
Can you discuss the Electro-Wizard battery disconnect switch? me and mechanic were having a hard time finding an ignition power line to hook into. is this what alleviates this issue? keeps it from drawing power all the time, even when off??
@@troykane thanks, So that is a separate thing, not part of the brake vacuum system? (just mounted there for space issue)? thanks again, and what a beautiful car,
Let me ask you a quick question. Regarding the vacuum switch, do you happen to have the part number? I’ve order the vacuum pump and I’d like to have the switch. How about the noise inside the car? Thank you
Had a question i was running a old style piston vacuum pump thats set up in trunk..works fine but noisey..i bought the bandit to switch out ..my problem.is when i hook up new bandit pump it runs weak like not enuff power or something ..i hooked directly to. Battery and works great..so i know its not defective ..any reason why the hot and ground that runs my piston pump fine but dosent power the bandit ..it gives power enuff to hear it running but very weak ..any suggestions i might be missing ..? Thanks
Did you t in vacuum from the engine as well with a check valve on the engine side and pump side?. I have had several failures with the vacuum pumps and still have a little vacuum back up from the engine even though it runs out quickly. Looking into the leeds pump now.
Hi Troy, one other comment touched on this, is an additional vacuum reservoir/canister needed in conjunction with this pump? I imagine that adding one would reduce any short cycling of the pump.
A vacuum canister is not needed. But using one cannot hurt the situation. Most people who have this problem probably already have a vacuum canister, so why not use it.
Great video Troy, just found your channel and subscribed. I'm building an Olds 455 with a big cam and was happy to see your positive experience with the Leed pump. I think I see one in my future.
Thank you Troy, I enjoy your videos about the 67 Charger. It has given me some really good insight on a few things that I am changing on my 66 Charger.
Hi ..very smooth ride ..question I have ..my piston style vacuum pump is located in trunk inside a metal box .but very noisy to say the least ..my reservoir canister with a vacuum gauge is located in engine compartment..so my question with this pump can I use existing area in trunk and remove my piston pump and with this new rotary pump put in same area and use the existing vacuum line that runs to front of car to the vacuum caniste reservoir that has the gauge on it ?
great video, 2 questions if i may, did you run any check valves and did you eleminate the vacuum hose off the motor to the brake booster and stick with just the pump?
Good questions. I run just the pump. So I capped the engine vacuum port. You have to keep the check valve at the booster. That's it you're good to go. Good luck
Hi Tony, Great video. Couple of questions... does the Leeds pump eliminate the need for an external relay? Are you connecting the power lead to a switched 12v circuit in your car? Why is the vacuum tank required? If the unit can produce up to 26 psi and you have a master brake tank to store the vacuum that tank seems redundant. I have the same situation with my '71 hemi cuda. Only 10 psi from the engine. Final question... will having the vacuum at the proper level also reduce the amount of pedal travel. I have excessive pedal travel and am hoping that this is also resolved with the new pump. Thank you!!!!
Relay is inside the unit. Connect to keyed 12 volt source. You technically don't need a vacuum tank. Pedal travel is not related to vacuum. Make sure the system is bled. If you have rear disc brakes make sure the E brake is function to provide proper adjustment. Make sure the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder is the correct length. Good luck. thanks for the comment.
Great video thank you very much for making it that's a great install one year later how do you like it? Is it reliable enough for a daily driver?. I would think it is since many factory cars now carry an electric pump even without a reservoir.
@@LemonmilkMusic if you run the canister with the combination of the brake booster it holds extra vacuum for brakes. I've tried it without the canister and with the canister.
Do you need to hook this system up to the intake manifold/carburetor at all? I am trying to set up something for my 1958 International Travelette. It has a straight 6, and I dont think it has any factory vacuum sources that I can use. I was hoping a vacuum pump is my answer, but I hope I dont need to connect it to the intake/carburetor anyway. I want to route right to the booster.
This system replaces the need for an engine vacuum source. It creates the vacuum with out the engine. Hope this was helpful. Good luck with your project!
@@troykane Actually this is very helpful! I have bee trying to find a solution for months. I'm just a 19 year old kid who has a project truck for a hobby. No one could give me a solid answer for some reason. Thank you!
Do you think a separate vacuum storage tank is needed? I have a space problem. Also can vacuum boost from the engine be eliminated? Thanks for your great article
I installed the exact pump on my 62 Chevy II. Is it normal for the brake pedal to drop all the way to the floor when only the ignition is on and the vacuum has reached 25 psi? When the car is completely off, the pedal gets firm.
I am not sure exactly what you have going on. But, in a car with power brakes, the pedal will be hard when the engine is off (no vacuum). When the engine is started ( vacuum applied) the pedal will drop and be softer. However this would not be a "pedal to the floor" situation. I would check your brake system, for proper adjustment, pad/shoe wear etc. Also consider rebleeding the brakes. One other test is to pump up the brakes and hold pressure on the pedal. If the pedal goes down gradually you have a faulty master cylinder. Hope this was helpful. Good luck on your project, Troy
Nice Video. I am getting ready to swap a rotary engine into my Samurai and was cleaning up the engine and planning on running silicone vacuum lines. I may go to turbo, but keep a lot of the factory functions that use vacuum, as well as the brakes. My question, could you run the ENTIRE engine vacuum system with the Leed Vacuum Pump?
Like I’ve said before, that HOK black is killer. That pump is sweet. Do you think there would be an advantage of placing a “T” at the booster so that you could also run engine vacuum also? Maybe the new pump is won’t run as much.
Thats how I did mine. Line from manifold with its own check valve and also the electric pump with its check valve. Dont forget the engine will pull well over 24inches of vacuum on deceleration with throttle shut even with a big cam so it does help the electric pump. Worth doing.
troy really nice car. i have a `68 impala with hideaway head lites. it has a vacuum pump. i think for the brake booster. the head lites work very poorly. do you have any information on the operation of the head lite system? i have seen these on u tube that work beautifully. it has a 427 , 4 speed. thanks very much.
This is more cost effective. Most of the time, folks already have a vacuum based system. So the pump just increases efficiency. Hydroboost would require more parts & more $$
Beautiful car but couldn’t you have found a better place to install that instead of the fender well? That’d be last place I’d would have stalled it but hey it’s your baby.
A buddy of mine has his car in a " performance shop" & they're telling him they are going to put a vacuum pump on his car because the vacuum line to his th400 isn't getting enough of a signal. The car can make 15"s & the cam isn't that aggressive. so it seems like they haven't diagnosed the problem and are just throwing parts at it.
Hello, 15" of vacuum does seem like plenty to operate a turbo 400. I'm curious where the vacuum is coming from. You need direct manifold vacuum, not ported vacuum from a carb fitting. Also check the vacuum right at the modulator, down at the transmission. this will eliminated the possible cause as vacuum loss. Good luck on your project, Troy
@@hieronymus..bosch8532 That doesn't seem right to me. The reason the transmission modulator is connected to engine vacuum is so the transmission gets engine vacuum.
It is number 2 pump and first one did the rubber in side of the pump and would not stop running . This one looks like it’s done the same thing . As it don’t shut down when vacuum built up . Just keeps running .
Buy your Leed Vacuum Pump Here amzn.to/2Q98Lf7
Yes Sir, ver cool set-up! I’d purchased the same led brakes vacuum pump In chrome. The slight vacuum drop-off will cease when the pump gets broken-in. Mine did similar, after a week or so the vacuum stopped the slight drop-off in value. Great set-up for safety Sir, cool ride too!
Just want to do a short follow-up on my previous post. The Leed vac pump arrived and is installed in my engine bay. A little fabrication was needed and it is tucked partially under the right front side of the car by the charcoal canister. With 6' of vac hose the line was routed with my AC lines and then cuts across the back of my Pontiac engine to the booster. Electric lines were tucked between the right inner fender and the fender and cuts across to the back by the engine's HEI. The power source is the 12v source to the HEI. All electrical wires were shrouded in split corrugated plastic loom tubing. The negative ground is on the intake manifold. New system works. So far, I am very happy as the supply of vacuum is clearly helping the braking action. By the way, it is whisper quiet compared to the pump style I previously had on the car years earlier.
Glad everything worked out for you
I watched this video a few weeks ago while searching for options on vacuum pumps instead of just replacing the piston pump I installed, that recently locked up. The piston pump never gave me decent braking. I thought the only option was going to be a hydo-boost system.
I took Troy's advice and ordered the bandit pump, installed it on 70 Chevelle with very stout 454. I did reuse my existing vacuum canister that I have tucked away in the fender well. Well, I test drove it today. Best brakes that car has had in 10 years, since I had the race shop rebuild the engine! Very quiet pump compared to the old piston pump.
FYI - I emailed Leed brakes prior to ordering, the Bandit pump can be mounted vertical or horizontal.
Thanks for the video, Troy
Thanks Chris! Glad I could be of help
do you need a reservoir or can the pump be plumbed directly to the brake booster?
@@TCDawg91 - If you email Leed brakes, they will answer your question. I emailed them about mounting the pump, they were quick to respond. I previously had a reservoir on mine so I kept in in place, didn't try the brakes with pump alone. But I can say, this pump was the answer to my Chevelle's brake issues with high HP engine.
2 very good looking cars I'm going to order my vacuum pump now this is the second video I've seen on the leeds pump so now I can drive my car in peace thanks for the video BTW that is the cleanest 1st gen charger I've ever seen
Just a quick follow-up to my previous posts. The cycling of the Leeds Black Bandit ( I have the naked version) was cycling almost without a break. When the unit gets to the predetermined vac it shuts the pump off. I traced the 3/8" vac line back from the booster to the pump after disconnecting it from the booster's check valve. It turns out that the vacuum line was leaking. The OEM hose used on my 79 Trans Am from the engine to the check valve looked like 3/8" vac line but it is actually smaller at 11/32. The line was leaking, plain and simple. So, the vac line will be replaced with the smaller diameter vac line soon. The simplest way to check for cycling is to put the pump in the on position at the key switch and then using your thumb cover the open end of the vac line. When it gets to the predetermined vac pressure the unit will stop running. This was how I diagnosed the near constant running of the pump. Hope this helps others. Thank you Troy for your input back to me, below.
Glad you found it. Glad I could be of help.
I have the same vacuum pump you used first on my sbc 383 with 242 cam. I’ll get the Leeds now. Thanks D.
Good Luck.
What's up buddy glad I saw your video I have a 2011 Camaro SS Inferno Orange I love the car it has 120,000 miles on it buying a new car would have been through much money for insurance and to pay off $50,000 so I gave it to my mechanic I bought all the parts Brian Tooley stage 2 cam crank Pistons oil pump water pump push rods had the heads ported and Polished new valves crank Pistons cost me about $15,000 need a vacuum pump all those other pumps sounds like your engine is knocking ridiculous would never even attempt to buy one of them so I saw your video did some research and I just ordered the Bandit from Amazon enclosed in a chrome canister looks really sharp should have the car back by the middle of next week the car is a beast thank you for the video really appreciate it it was $399 not that bad I guess
Cool! glad I could help. Thanks for the comment
Recently installed a muthathumpr cam in my 66 gto now my breaks are hard when pressed, I think this is what I need 👍🏿
I agree.
I was going to buy a piston vacuum until I watched your video. Now I'm convinced that I'm better off purchasing this unit. Thanks.
I highly encourage you to purchase this type of unit. good luck, Troy
I like this. I have a mechanical vacuum pump on my 1981 Mercedes 240d. They are becoming very rare and the parts for fixing them are starting to become rare. This will solve my issues.
Good Luck
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This is a very good clarifying video. I have the same problem with my 73 Chrysler imperial generating only 10 inches of vacuum. I’ll go for this. Thank you.
Good Luck. Glad I could help.
Great just what I needed to know, I just installed a power brake conversion in my 1960 dodge dart phoenix....thanks for the information
Awesome! Glad I could help. Thanks for the comment
I installed the pump correctly but it do not turn off or pump enough pressure, the master cylinder is new do the size of the master cylinder have anything to do with this ?
You have a vacuum leak. Plug the hose coming off the pump and see if it will stop automatically.
Cool... seldom see Vermont tags. I grew up in the Green Mountain State.
great video, I will definitely need one of these when I get a big cam for mi Firebird.
This was very helpful! I like how you show the Lead pump size & let us hear how it sounds. Beautiful car btw
Thank You! Glad I could help
I could really use something like this. I have a gm truck with a Magnuson 1900. From my understanding the blower works off of vacuum would you know if this pump would effect performance of blower?
Your supercharger is pushing air into the engine. Without the supercharger the engine is sucking in air, which is vacuum. Therefore you esentially have no vacuum with a supercharger in boost. So yes this would be an alternative source of vacuum to run your brakes and I would highly recomend it.
Thank you , I have the loud pump Now on 383 stroker - and it stopped working. Now 2.5 years passed are you still Happy with NEW pump system ??
Still works great. Thanks for the comment.
I just had my Pontiac 400 engine rebuilt a couple years back for my 1978 Trans Am. The engine builder installed a very lopey cam. Ever since the rebuild, I have had almost no brakes and the throttle response is poor. The engine is built to produce a little over 400 hp, nothing too crazy, but good power. Do you think this pump would cure my issues?
Yes more than likely if the booster is receiving low vacuum. Best way to know is to test the engine vacuum with a vacuum gauge. Test the brake booster as well. As far as the poor throttle response, that could be a lot of things. I would work on the vacuum system first. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks in all the connections and hoses. Carb cleaner sprayed on the hoses and connections will show a leak by the engine sound. Spray listen for the engine to increase in idle speed. If so you have a leak. If not, no leak. Good luck
Hey Troy what's up I recently left you a comment about the Camaro that I rebuilt and I need a vacuum pump well I ordered it I got it it came today really nice looks nice heavy duty the only thing I'm not too thrilled about it being a plastic canister when I ordered it it didn't say anywhere anything about being plastic it just said Chrome or black so you here Chrome right away so you think it's metal well anyway it's the most quietest one out there on the market see how it is when I install it thank you for the video
Thanks buddy, I have been struggling with the same vacuum issue on my 65 Mercury Comet with a 460 big block and healthy cam. Your video was very helpful and I am replacing my noisy rotary pump with a Leeds. Thanks for the video.
Glad I could be of help
Do you need the extra tank and will you still have power brakes if the motor stalls because it's electric?
You don't need the extra tank. But it does provide reserve vacuum. And yes you will have brake brakes during engine off condition, engine has nothing to do with brake vacuum with this system.
Thank you Troy. I'm looking at this issue with a new engine in my Camaro. Only thing is, I wish you would have shown us the drive test.
Thanks for the input. I never thought about including that in the video. As you can imagine going from 10 inches of vacuum to over 20 made such a great improvement on the brakes.
Just what I was looking for. Did a mild cam in my Chevy C-10 project and only getting around 9 Lbs of Vacuum, so I've been looking for a solution.
Glad things worked out for you.
I've had my Lee's vac pump on my TA for a year. The concern I have is the cycling of the unit. It emits a high pitched sound when running and the pump seems to run without shutting off for any length of time. Troy, I know you have a separate can to help store vac and I am wondering if your unit is cycling constantly. No leaks have been detected. Need your thoughts on this. Thanks.
Thanks for the question. My question to you is what are you running vacuum to power? I will assume a power brake booster. I would test that booster to see if will retain vacuum. Same goes for any other vacuum accessories you may be connected to. I would also test the pump by capping the suction port let it run and see how it reacts. Good Luck
Sir I’m having. A similar problem with the transmission and vacuum do you think this will fix my problem ?
Ok the pump will provide a consistant source of vacuum. This will be perfect for a brake booster. However this is not something to connect to a tranmission modulator. The modulator needs vacuum from the engine to allow the transmission to shift properly.
Excellent and very helpful video. I too have low manifold vacuum (11" of Mercury at idle) and my Trans Am's power brakes are not doing very well. Just ordered a Leed Brakes unit to bolster the vac to my brake booster. Quick vacuum and quiet operation sold me. Thanks for the tip.
Glad I could be of help. Good luck on your project
Great video!
I installed my pump the other day and I’m having a bit of an issue. It’s makes 25Hg of vacuum very quickly, however it will not shut off. Once it hits 25-26Hg the gauge will bounce back to 20 or 15Hg and then right back up to 25Hg. I’ve checked the voltage, the ground and the power source and all are good. There are no leaks in the lines, just cannot figure out why it won’t shut off.
I would contact Leed. You may have a regulator issue. Good Luck
I'd be checking for a leak somewhere. It sounds like once you get high vac it leaks in, vac drops and leak stops then over and over again.
Hi Troy, beautiful car. I have this pump on my 69 El Camino because the LS I put in it only produces 10in of vacuum at idle with the cam that is in it. The pump is very quiet and works very well for the most part, but sometimes when I hit the brakes, I have no brake assist which is a very scary situation when you have to stop in an emergency. When I put a vacuum gauge on it, it pumps to 22in and turns off but will not turn back on until it reaches 10 or 12in which is not enough for my power brakes. I suspect it is the switch that is bad, from what I have found online this is a fairly common problem with this pump. Do you think the switch is my problem and are you aware of others having this problem with the switch? Thanks in advance
I think your diagnosis is spot on. I would contact the folks at Leed and see if they will help you with a replacement part. Good Luck
Do you need a canister to go with this pump or can you just run the pump directly to the power booster
No you can go direct.
Another great video thank you, very informative to guys that have bought that same pump which I’m assuming is the same one I have in my Chevelle made by SSB. You are absolutely right that pump is very noisy and rattles everything around it, I just don’t leave the key on without the engine running that way I don’t have to hear it. About every 4-5 years I replace the rubber lines because of cracks from engine heat.
Thank You
A few things... First your Charger is beautiful! The attention to detail on all the wiring and bracketry, plus how clean it is, astonishing. Well done! Second, thanks for the video. I'm having about the same issue with my Cutlass. Vacuum is roughly 10 - 11 inches, brakes are hard as a rock and the brakes are scary on the highway. After bumping up the idle to make 14 in, it's not producing enough PSI at the calipers. I was looking into the rotary style pumps for a while, it might be time to bite the bullet. This video is about 9 months old, do you have an updates / opinions on the product now that you've used it?
Hello Scott, Thanks for watching and commenting. This pump is the best remedy. Brakes are spot on all the time. No regrets, I wouldn't hesitate to use this product on another build. Best of luck, Troy
Can you discuss the Electro-Wizard battery disconnect switch? me and mechanic were having a hard time finding an ignition power line to hook into. is this what alleviates this issue? keeps it from drawing power all the time, even when off??
As far as a battery disconnect, that would be main power between the battery and the vehicle. That will cut all power to the vehicle.
@@troykane thanks, So that is a separate thing, not part of the brake vacuum system? (just mounted there for space issue)? thanks again, and what a beautiful car,
Yes totally unrelated.
Let me ask you a quick question. Regarding the vacuum switch, do you happen to have the part number? I’ve order the vacuum pump and I’d like to have the switch. How about the noise inside the car? Thank you
I do not have a part number for the switch. The pump makes minimal noise do to it being a rotary pump.
@@troykane thank you. I’ll make my research on the switch.
Beautiful car great assembly
Thank You!
Yes, it will
Had a question i was running a old style piston vacuum pump thats set up in trunk..works fine but noisey..i bought the bandit to switch out ..my problem.is when i hook up new bandit pump it runs weak like not enuff power or something ..i hooked directly to. Battery and works great..so i know its not defective ..any reason why the hot and ground that runs my piston pump fine but dosent power the bandit ..it gives power enuff to hear it running but very weak ..any suggestions i might be missing ..? Thanks
Thanks for the content
Did you t in vacuum from the engine as well with a check valve on the engine side and pump side?. I have had several failures with the vacuum pumps and still have a little vacuum back up from the engine even though it runs out quickly. Looking into the leeds pump now.
NO engine vacuum. The pump does it all. As long as the pump has power you have brakes, even if the engine stalls.
Exactly what I needed thanks brother💯
Thanks for the comment & good luck with your project!
Hi Troy, one other comment touched on this, is an additional vacuum reservoir/canister needed in conjunction with this pump? I imagine that adding one would reduce any short cycling of the pump.
A vacuum canister is not needed. But using one cannot hurt the situation. Most people who have this problem probably already have a vacuum canister, so why not use it.
Great video Troy, just found your channel and subscribed. I'm building an Olds 455 with a big cam and was happy to see your positive experience with the Leed pump. I think I see one in my future.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with the project.
Hey do you really need the extra storage canister in order for it to work??
So what's the 2nd port for on the pump ? Do you not hook anything up to it ?
An exhaust. Nothing goes to it
Thank you Troy, I enjoy your videos about the 67 Charger. It has given me some really good insight on a few things that I am changing on my 66 Charger.
Glad to help
Will this work with an ls swap fuel injected setup?
Yes it will
@troykane ok great... somehow when I press my brakes while in park, the car shuts off instantly
@@terrylinellc5550 does it stumble and stall? It could be vacuum related. If it shuts off like when you shut the key off it could be electrical.
Really nice car sir and excellent video
Thank You!
@@troykane I got a 77 d100 adventurer and a 78 midnite expres
@@jean-guylebreton5332 Awesome!
Hi ..very smooth ride ..question I have ..my piston style vacuum pump is located in trunk inside a metal box .but very noisy to say the least ..my reservoir canister with a vacuum gauge is located in engine compartment..so my question with this pump can I use existing area in trunk and remove my piston pump and with this new rotary pump put in same area and use the existing vacuum line that runs to front of car to the vacuum caniste reservoir that has the gauge on it ?
You sure can. You actually don't even need the reservoir. But it doesn't hurt to have it. Good luck on your project Troy
great video, 2 questions if i may, did you run any check valves and did you eleminate the vacuum hose off the motor to the brake booster and stick with just the pump?
Good questions. I run just the pump. So I capped the engine vacuum port. You have to keep the check valve at the booster. That's it you're good to go. Good luck
@@troykane thanks so much Troy, i appreciate it
Anytime! Good Luck
Hi Tony, Great video. Couple of questions... does the Leeds pump eliminate the need for an external relay? Are you connecting the power lead to a switched 12v circuit in your car? Why is the vacuum tank required? If the unit can produce up to 26 psi and you have a master brake tank to store the vacuum that tank seems redundant. I have the same situation with my '71 hemi cuda. Only 10 psi from the engine. Final question... will having the vacuum at the proper level also reduce the amount of pedal travel. I have excessive pedal travel and am hoping that this is also resolved with the new pump. Thank you!!!!
Relay is inside the unit. Connect to keyed 12 volt source. You technically don't need a vacuum tank. Pedal travel is not related to vacuum. Make sure the system is bled. If you have rear disc brakes make sure the E brake is function to provide proper adjustment. Make sure the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder is the correct length. Good luck. thanks for the comment.
What vacuum canister was used here? I think I will get one of them as well.
I use one from Comp Cams Buy it here amzn.to/3CusGZp
Great video thank you very much for making it that's a great install one year later how do you like it? Is it reliable enough for a daily driver?. I would think it is since many factory cars now carry an electric pump even without a reservoir.
Perfect, It does everything I need it to do, everytime. thanks for the comment. Good luck on your project Troy
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you Troy!
Glad I could help
I am looking into buying this setup. Do you this the extra tank is needed or can I just run to brake booster tank?
Do not need the extra storage canister
@@LemonmilkMusic if you run the canister with the combination of the brake booster it holds extra vacuum for brakes. I've tried it without the canister and with the canister.
I have both i have the Leeds AND a canister also Always have 21psi vacuum
@@LemonmilkMusic how do you brakes feel?
@@musclebone7875 like modern brakes
Do you havs to run a canister or can you run the pump directly to the brake booster. The only vacuum my car uses is for the brakes
No canister required. you can go direct to the booster. Good luck
Do you need to hook this system up to the intake manifold/carburetor at all? I am trying to set up something for my 1958 International Travelette. It has a straight 6, and I dont think it has any factory vacuum sources that I can use. I was hoping a vacuum pump is my answer, but I hope I dont need to connect it to the intake/carburetor anyway. I want to route right to the booster.
This system replaces the need for an engine vacuum source. It creates the vacuum with out the engine. Hope this was helpful. Good luck with your project!
@@troykane Actually this is very helpful! I have bee trying to find a solution for months. I'm just a 19 year old kid who has a project truck for a hobby. No one could give me a solid answer for some reason. Thank you!
Do you think a separate vacuum storage tank is needed? I have a space problem. Also can vacuum boost from the engine be eliminated? Thanks for your great article
Yes if you have the pump.
So besides the new fully contained pump, I’ll also need an auxiliary tank, correct?
No you don't need a tank. It is helpful but not neccessary. Thanks for the comment
I installed the exact pump on my 62 Chevy II. Is it normal for the brake pedal to drop all the way to the floor when only the ignition is on and the vacuum has reached 25 psi? When the car is completely off, the pedal gets firm.
I am not sure exactly what you have going on. But, in a car with power brakes, the pedal will be hard when the engine is off (no vacuum). When the engine is started ( vacuum applied) the pedal will drop and be softer. However this would not be a "pedal to the floor" situation. I would check your brake system, for proper adjustment, pad/shoe wear etc. Also consider rebleeding the brakes. One other test is to pump up the brakes and hold pressure on the pedal. If the pedal goes down gradually you have a faulty master cylinder. Hope this was helpful. Good luck on your project, Troy
Thank you ...I need this
Good Luck!
Awesome video! Thank u!
Glad you liked it! Thank you for the comment
Great video just what I was looking for. Noe can I install this unit on 1990 mustang ?
Sure you can
Nice Video. I am getting ready to swap a rotary engine into my Samurai and was cleaning up the engine and planning on running silicone vacuum lines. I may go to turbo, but keep a lot of the factory functions that use vacuum, as well as the brakes.
My question, could you run the ENTIRE engine vacuum system with the Leed Vacuum Pump?
Yes I would think so. The pump makes sufficient vacuum.
Car is amazing
Thank You Dennis
Thanks for the info...
You bet!
Can it be installed in the horizontal position
Yes it can
Ok thank you ordered one from summit
Can you hook the pump up and intake vacuum at the same time.
No, not at all.
Like I’ve said before, that HOK black is killer.
That pump is sweet. Do you think there would be an advantage of placing a “T” at the booster so that you could also run engine vacuum also? Maybe the new pump is won’t run as much.
Possible, but I think the idea is be be independent of the engine.
Mrbigg I was thinking the same thing. T into the canister. Maybe also act as a little failsafe if for some reason the pump died.
Thats how I did mine. Line from manifold with its own check valve and also the electric pump with its check valve. Dont forget the engine will pull well over 24inches of vacuum on deceleration with throttle shut even with a big cam so it does help the electric pump. Worth doing.
troy really nice car. i have a `68 impala with hideaway head lites. it has a vacuum pump. i think for the brake booster. the head lites work very poorly. do you have any information on the operation of the head lite system? i have seen these on u tube that work beautifully. it has a 427 , 4 speed. thanks very much.
I don't have any information on the 68 impala. I do still have my first car , 66 impala ss
there is an electric conversion kit to convert slow moving headlight doors into a smooth running system.
Did you consider a hydroboost system? Im guessing this is cheaper but just curious.
This is more cost effective. Most of the time, folks already have a vacuum based system. So the pump just increases efficiency. Hydroboost would require more parts & more $$
Just put a vacuum canister and my brakes are still hard. Think is time for a vacuum pump
Beautiful car but couldn’t you have found a better place to install that instead of the fender well? That’d be last place I’d would have stalled it but hey it’s your baby.
A buddy of mine has his car in a " performance shop" & they're telling him they are going to put a vacuum pump on his car because the vacuum line to his th400 isn't getting enough of a signal. The car can make 15"s & the cam isn't that aggressive. so it seems like they haven't diagnosed the problem and are just throwing parts at it.
Hello, 15" of vacuum does seem like plenty to operate a turbo 400. I'm curious where the vacuum is coming from. You need direct manifold vacuum, not ported vacuum from a carb fitting. Also check the vacuum right at the modulator, down at the transmission. this will eliminated the possible cause as vacuum loss.
Good luck on your project, Troy
@@troykane its coming from the intake but they are saying they will hook the transmission up to the vacuum pump 🙄
@@hieronymus..bosch8532 That doesn't seem right to me. The reason the transmission modulator is connected to engine vacuum is so the transmission gets engine vacuum.
@@troykane exactly. But they seem to think it will fix the obviouse valve problem it has
@@hieronymus..bosch8532 Good Luck, maybe a second opinion is in order
Just one thing I was thinking that my pump was U/S because of that noise ;)
It is number 2 pump and first one did the rubber in side of the pump and would not stop running . This one looks like it’s done the same thing . As it don’t shut down when vacuum built up . Just keeps running .
Sexy sexy cars😻😻
Thank You!
Change your car
?