thanks man! after 45 years I’m back building models. You’re right, I do try to take my time, no need to finish in one sitting. I was a little frustrating in the painting process. I found a 1963 AirFix German Bomber 1/72 scale model. I primed the whole thing and then began to apply testers enamel , and to my horror, Lol, the paint began to rise and peel off. So I had to remove ALL of the primer. I used thinner. I usually work on it an hour here and there. Now that I removed the primer, I began to apply the testers enamel. I did lighten it up with thinner. After applying the first layer, I noticed that it was not smooth and looked bumpy and sloppy. So I am still experimenting and we’ll see what happens. Thanks for your video. Nat
Hi! I'm an artist but have never used Testor's before. I'm confused about the brush cleaning process. The Testor's thinner is such a small bottle...do I swizzle my dirty brush in the whole bottle? (This is how I'm used to rinsing my brushes using watercolor and acrylic, by swizzling them in a jar of water.) Do I dab some of the paint thinner on a rag then rub my brush clean? It feels strange to just have one small bottle of testors thinner & dirty the whole bottle in one sitting. And swizzling the he brush into the mouth of a metal can of paint thinner doesn't seem very friendly either. (Also I know the testors cleaner is just paint thinner, but I don't necessarily want to have a big bottle of that stuff in my studio for the dogs to get into or for me to spill accidentally or when transferring it to a smaller container.) Thanks in advance for any help anyone can suggest!
I was thinking the same. I’ve tried a few methods and it looks like dipping the brush in the thinner then cleaning it on a napkin works well. The paint doesn’t seem to mix into the thinner when the brush is dipped quickly and I heard if it does it falls to the bottom of the thinner, making the thinner reusable.
So when using these enamel paints, you don’t have to prime or thin the paint? You can paint right out of the jar? I painted some parts in acrylic and do not like the way it ended up looking and want to try enamel paints but a little held back because I don’t understand the thinning. I just use brushed btw.
I'm going to use testers silver bottle paint to refresh my front hood letters of my Land Rover. I just subscribed and I watced this video. Will itself level straight out of the bottle? Should I use a small bristle.brush like the one in this video? I know the importance of don't over brush and keep moving. (I have a bottle of Testers thinner too) Thank you .
I'm planning to use Testors enamel to do weathering on metal pieces. I will sand and scratch the metal surface first to give it the best chance of sticking. Everything I tried using before just peels or scratch so easily on metal. Even after using a clear lacquer it doesn't hold as well as I want. Hopefully enamel paint will be much more resistant. As a very last resort I even got some gel nail polish instead of spray lacquer. You need a UV lamp to cure that stuff and it's very hard but that doesn't help if the paint under peel off easily.
@@surerockco.models3452 I did consider primer but unfortunately it's a weathering job. It won't cover the whole metal part. Just to simulate dirt and rust.
@@surerockco.models3452 A lightsaber hilt. It's most likely aluminum. That's why it's so tricky and I need something that holds really well. It's made to be handled. I don't want to accidentally scrape off a chunk because my nail touched it.
@@chamoo232 I would personally paint it aluminum again then that gives you a base to work off. Especially if its the hilt and its supposed to be physically handled, you need something to bite into the aluminum. Once weathered, seal it.
Wow you painted that? Amazing. I have a bunch of these paints, never used them. I'm a fine artist, not model painter, so what else can I do with these paints? Will they stick to most anything? Do you know the difference in enamel paints and oil paints? THANKS!!
You probably figured out by now but enamels typically don’t need a primer they’re so tough. Enamel paints require enamel thinner, acrylics require water and oil requires turpentine or white spirits to thin. Oils are great to blend, enamels act like acrylics but tougher. Basically it’s just tougher acrylic, pardon my English.
Very nice video! I love Enamel paints. I have many humbrols, but now I want to go for testors. ¿What do you think about comparation?. Testors come only in 1/4 Fl. oz? Regards!
Thank you for repeating that it self levels so many times. That's actually what I wanted to be certain of. Can't you remove the enamel from the brush with acetone / nail polish remover?
I shake my paints by hand. They always are very thick near the bottom of the bottle. After watching this, im guessing, its because im not stirring? The sprue trick is great.
I'm kinda new to painting. And I painted a small part on my action figure. Its been 3 days and it hasn't dried. Did I do something wrong? 🤣🤔😔how do I get it to dry or paint correctly
Do you use paint thinner by any chance ? And how do you maintain your brushes. I used the same paint on a certain project and now my brushes are ruined
Depends on the paint thinner brand, etc. Always test first on a scrap piece. Try to clean everything immediately but typically brushes need an immediate cleaning for prolong use. Rarely I use one-time-use brushes but only in unique circumstances like applying glue and etc. I always try cheap brushes first and maintain those ones. Once I feel I've graduated to a more pricey brush, I consider my clean up methods and overall skills first.
@@surerockco.models3452 and with cleaning brushes that have been used for these types of paints, what do you recommend? Tried water and it didn’t help so much
@@laggypenguin7107 Oh no way water will clean an enamel. You will have to obtain paint thinner or lacquer thinner. Paint thinner is perfect for enamels and lacquer thinner is perfect for enamel and acrylic but typically only use it to dilute an acrylic or a final wash on either type. Be careful of the fumes and they are very flammable. I have never spent more than 10$cdn on a detail brush. They last years if you maintain them properly. It is trial and error honestly for the brushes. I have one or two maybe from each brand. I only destroy them dropping them or leaving the paint on too long. but never during the cleaning process.
The only reason why I do not shake by hand is to avoid paint building up on the lid and rim of the bottle which makes them harder to open. When clumpy, you can shake by hand or use a piece of plastic from a sprue and use that to simply break down / poke any clumps.
Yes, many coatings are out there for enamels. Just research what paint you’ve already used and what particular finish you’re after (flat, glossy, polished). Thanks!
No, it is not needed. In my opinion, when you add thinner to an enamel it becomes to runny or diluted. This is also why I believe the best "washes" are made with diluted enamel, such as Tamiya panel line. Now depending on your specific brand of enamel, consistency of paint and location, it could be necessary to add thinner but I have ever done so with Testors.. Just do a test piece before your model until you get the right consistency that makes you most comfortable.
Sprue sticks for stirring, what a good idea! I've been looking for something for stirring that I dont have to clean every time
thanks man! after 45 years I’m back building models. You’re right, I do try to take my time, no need to finish in one sitting. I was a little frustrating in the painting process. I found a 1963 AirFix German Bomber 1/72 scale model. I primed the whole thing and then began to apply testers enamel , and to my horror, Lol, the paint began to rise and peel off. So I had to remove ALL of the primer. I used thinner. I usually work on it an hour here and there. Now that I removed the primer, I began to apply the testers enamel. I did lighten it up with thinner. After applying the first layer, I noticed that it was not smooth and looked bumpy and sloppy. So I am still experimenting and we’ll see what happens. Thanks for your video.
Nat
So glad I've got my audio base boosted
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I love Testor's paint. But once fully dried i notice certain surfaces would leave a light finger prints with touch.
Hi! I'm an artist but have never used Testor's before. I'm confused about the brush cleaning process. The Testor's thinner is such a small bottle...do I swizzle my dirty brush in the whole bottle? (This is how I'm used to rinsing my brushes using watercolor and acrylic, by swizzling them in a jar of water.) Do I dab some of the paint thinner on a rag then rub my brush clean? It feels strange to just have one small bottle of testors thinner & dirty the whole bottle in one sitting. And swizzling the he brush into the mouth of a metal can of paint thinner doesn't seem very friendly either. (Also I know the testors cleaner is just paint thinner, but I don't necessarily want to have a big bottle of that stuff in my studio for the dogs to get into or for me to spill accidentally or when transferring it to a smaller container.) Thanks in advance for any help anyone can suggest!
I was thinking the same. I’ve tried a few methods and it looks like dipping the brush in the thinner then cleaning it on a napkin works well. The paint doesn’t seem to mix into the thinner when the brush is dipped quickly and I heard if it does it falls to the bottom of the thinner, making the thinner reusable.
Barry White is now doing tutorials on youtube, thanks man!
So when using these enamel paints, you don’t have to prime or thin the paint? You can paint right out of the jar? I painted some parts in acrylic and do not like the way it ended up looking and want to try enamel paints but a little held back because I don’t understand the thinning. I just use brushed btw.
I'm going to use testers silver bottle paint to refresh my front hood letters of my Land Rover. I just subscribed and I watced this video. Will itself level straight out of the bottle? Should I use a small bristle.brush like the one in this video? I know the importance of don't over brush and keep moving.
(I have a bottle of Testers thinner too)
Thank you
.
I'm planning to use Testors enamel to do weathering on metal pieces. I will sand and scratch the metal surface first to give it the best chance of sticking. Everything I tried using before just peels or scratch so easily on metal. Even after using a clear lacquer it doesn't hold as well as I want. Hopefully enamel paint will be much more resistant. As a very last resort I even got some gel nail polish instead of spray lacquer. You need a UV lamp to cure that stuff and it's very hard but that doesn't help if the paint under peel off easily.
I would prime the metal first and make sure the metal itself if properly prepped and cleaned.
@@surerockco.models3452 I did consider primer but unfortunately it's a weathering job. It won't cover the whole metal part. Just to simulate dirt and rust.
@@chamoo232 What type of metal, and what is the job more specifically?
@@surerockco.models3452 A lightsaber hilt. It's most likely aluminum. That's why it's so tricky and I need something that holds really well. It's made to be handled. I don't want to accidentally scrape off a chunk because my nail touched it.
@@chamoo232 I would personally paint it aluminum again then that gives you a base to work off. Especially if its the hilt and its supposed to be physically handled, you need something to bite into the aluminum. Once weathered, seal it.
Wow you painted that? Amazing. I have a bunch of these paints, never used them. I'm a fine artist, not model painter, so what else can I do with these paints? Will they stick to most anything? Do you know the difference in enamel paints and oil paints? THANKS!!
You probably figured out by now but enamels typically don’t need a primer they’re so tough. Enamel paints require enamel thinner, acrylics require water and oil requires turpentine or white spirits to thin. Oils are great to blend, enamels act like acrylics but tougher. Basically it’s just tougher acrylic, pardon my English.
Your enamel paints would look amazing as accent colors on canvas...like gold and neon yellow. 🏆.
Very nice video! I love Enamel paints. I have many humbrols, but now I want to go for testors. ¿What do you think about comparation?. Testors come only in 1/4 Fl. oz? Regards!
Hello, may you have a recommended Enamel paint/type/brand to be using for scale model cars and planes?
Thank you for repeating that it self levels so many times. That's actually what I wanted to be certain of. Can't you remove the enamel from the brush with acetone / nail polish remover?
Could water be used to thin the paint, I’m new to the hobby and don’t have any thinner. And also any other beginner tips you could give me
Yes, do not use water. You must use paint thinner for enamel paint.
Sure Rock Co. Models okay thanks
How do you clean the brushes after use?
Thanks for the video, I like painting miniatures but am on a budget and don't have the money for some other model paint so I've been using Testors.
I shake my paints by hand. They always are very thick near the bottom of the bottle. After watching this, im guessing, its because im not stirring? The sprue trick is great.
Can you recommend a brand of brushes for fine detail using Testors on enamel metal?
I'm kinda new to painting. And I painted a small part on my action figure. Its been 3 days and it hasn't dried. Did I do something wrong? 🤣🤔😔how do I get it to dry or paint correctly
It puts the lotion in the basket!, it does what it’s told!!
Do you use paint thinner by any chance ? And how do you maintain your brushes. I used the same paint on a certain project and now my brushes are ruined
Depends on the paint thinner brand, etc. Always test first on a scrap piece. Try to clean everything immediately but typically brushes need an immediate cleaning for prolong use. Rarely I use one-time-use brushes but only in unique circumstances like applying glue and etc. I always try cheap brushes first and maintain those ones. Once I feel I've graduated to a more pricey brush, I consider my clean up methods and overall skills first.
@@surerockco.models3452 and with cleaning brushes that have been used for these types of paints, what do you recommend? Tried water and it didn’t help so much
@@laggypenguin7107 Oh no way water will clean an enamel. You will have to obtain paint thinner or lacquer thinner. Paint thinner is perfect for enamels and lacquer thinner is perfect for enamel and acrylic but typically only use it to dilute an acrylic or a final wash on either type. Be careful of the fumes and they are very flammable. I have never spent more than 10$cdn on a detail brush. They last years if you maintain them properly. It is trial and error honestly for the brushes. I have one or two maybe from each brand. I only destroy them dropping them or leaving the paint on too long. but never during the cleaning process.
@@surerockco.models3452 sweet, thank you. I’ll definitely try that before my next project
if there are Clumps
how you stir the Paint ? shake by hand
The only reason why I do not shake by hand is to avoid paint building up on the lid and rim of the bottle which makes them harder to open. When clumpy, you can shake by hand or use a piece of plastic from a sprue and use that to simply break down / poke any clumps.
I'm searching for glossy finish coating ? Is there availability
Testors glosscoat top coat, Rust-Oleum makes them too, and krylon
Brush?
Are there any coating for enamels ?
Yes, many coatings are out there for enamels. Just research what paint you’ve already used and what particular finish you’re after (flat, glossy, polished). Thanks!
I thought you were suppose to mix the enamel paint with the thinner before you start painting?
No, it is not needed. In my opinion, when you add thinner to an enamel it becomes to runny or diluted. This is also why I believe the best "washes" are made with diluted enamel, such as Tamiya panel line. Now depending on your specific brand of enamel, consistency of paint and location, it could be necessary to add thinner but I have ever done so with Testors.. Just do a test piece before your model until you get the right consistency that makes you most comfortable.
Doesn’t this stuff cause cancer? Are you worried about it being toxic?
Paint booth
Awsome!
I used to sniff this stuff. The only real side affect was a headache. Its not bad
Smug Smugly wait a couple years and the bad stuff will show up
its pronounced Dee-cals.
IntrudersForever dude, shut up
He used the British pronunciation.