Pushing The Limits On North America's Deadliest Ridge | North America's Fifty Classic Climbs, Ep. 5
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- Опубліковано 27 кві 2015
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With one of their party having already turned back, the three-man team of Mark Smiley, Jed Porter and Reiner Thoni push on in their attempt to make the second ascent of the 'Hummingbird Traverse' on Canada's Mount Logan. After a grueling day of ice climbing on steady terrain, the team encounter the crux of the route; the shovel traverse. So-called because the first ascensionists literally dug their way through the cornices that cap the ridge, the traverse offers both danger and technical climbing. Despite making solid progress, the team soon realise that to continue any further would be to knowingly flirt with disaster. In the tradition of prudent alpinism, they bow to the elements, admit defeat, and return to more solid ground. A failed attempt perhaps, but there's a good reason why this route still awaits its second ascent. Only time will tell if our team will return to claim it.
Pushing The Limits On North America's Deadliest Ridge | North America's Fifty Classic Climbs, Ep. 5
Director: Mark Smiley
Producer: Donna Saarentola
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Props for getting the shots on the way down, especially on a bail. It takes so much resolve to get the camera out and get into position when all you want is off. Great video.
Success is coming back alive to tell the tale! Congratulations for a courageous Successful Climb and Descent!
I assume y'all do this because you love it (that's why I climb), but what you guys do is truly impressive and y'all don't get enough credit for it.
This video has to be one of the best I have seen yet, very well done boys and you all made the right choice, congratulations on your climb!
God damn that is scary to watch, I was actually happy you bailed haha. Proud fucking effort dudes!
Truly SICK!!!!! Amazing effort and way to hang it out there. There's no traffic jam in the extra mile.
So epic guys! Well done.
Interesting to see what the ridge looks like up close. We were on East Ridge when Dave Chessmond and Catherine Freer were lost trying it back 1987. There were never found.
Incredible effort. Don't know what to say...great footage. It truly was an awe inspiring video, I cant begin to imagine what it was like in real life. Good job.
One exposed friggin ridge! that's some hardy, and very serious winter Alpinism to be sure - fantastic job boys!!
Great line, massive work for 3, kudos ... 🍺🦆🦉🐿
This is simply badass
first off this is an amazing little short doc of this climb thank you for sharing this with us. Secondly 4:37 wow mark I cannot believe how calm and collected you were after nearly falling off the left side of hummingbird ridge you were essentially making jokes afterward you are a true badass man. I read the actual blogpost you typed up of the trip in detail a little while back and when you explained falling through that cornice I can’t explain how on the edge of my seat I was during that read it was intense and scary as fuck to be quite honest I cannot believe you guys brushed it off so quickly and easily as if you weren’t even phased by it.
The first ascent climbers in 1965 must has some serious moxie. I started climbing about then and I remember what the gear was like. Hard men, they were. Looks like the years have not made the route any easier.
Good call!
I’ve watched videos of people climbing Everest, K2, Annapurna but this is extreme! I don’t know how you guys can be that chill I’m watching this on UA-cam and it’s freaking me out lol. Some serious props entitled for sure
Summit on this trip? No. Massive adventure on this trip? Yes.
I take it there's a 'part 1.' I gather this was on, what, Logan? Humingbird Ridge?
young climber: "so, what have you climbed"
wise climber: "so, what have you bailed off"
well said. and so true.
Summing is optional. Descending is mandatory.
If you want to stay alive, anyway.
I'm so thankful I dont suffer from such an affliction!!
talk about having big balls......right on brothers....i could never do that....but i sure enjoyed your video....keep rocking those mountains
allan benthien well to each their own.... you push if you so decide to push...
GOOD JOB ON THAT GIRL SHE WILL NEVER CLIMB AGAIN DO YOU HERE THERE BABY TALK FUNNY NO RESPECT THERE
MORE CORTIZONE FOR HER PLEASE WHAT A FOOL YOU FROZE HER UP SO BAD SHE HAD TO HAVE A OPERATION YOUR NOT A DOCTOR THERE IDIOT
All three of these climbers are still alive (2/12/24). Probably because they are willing to turn back.
This was epic...
So grim. Nice work boys. Pretty stubborn the for a bit.
Got keep your cool doing this .no cake walk there . do the drill .have some fun .up there .be safe.
Backed off good choice.
It's great to see some non-wobbly, non Gopro, professional footage for a change. Looks great.
Very smart thinking. Acknowledging that it’s not safe enough to continue.
wondering the background music during the climbing!
just use a music identifier .. google it
34 rappels. Crazy
The cornice on the left side of the screen at 2:46 looks crazy
Anyone know the music at 03:07? It is so epic
Does anybody know what kind/brand of ice axe shovel attachment he uses to dig out the ledge for the tent at 2:55???
Yes. I'm sure someone does.
@@acommenter5184 lol
I am not a climber, but can someone explain how do they set up and most importantly anchor a tent at 5:04 ? How a tent can hold winds a don't get blown away with climbers inside?
ice screws
enough ice screws and half hitches will hold anything
Bloody hell
I'm not sure its possible to climb this route "alpine style", too long slow and difficult? Can you carry enough stove fuel and food for one go and allowing for sitting out storms? As most know, the first ascent route was done expedition style with fixed lines and load carrying. Look like you lucked out with the weather. 1 rope?
You did some great climbing and videoing, nicely done.
anybody no the music score?
Tectonic Mann Know.
Never seen that shovel attachment that they are using at 2:52... anyone know what that is? Maybe a custom made blade to fit on the Sum'Tec? All I know is I want one!
Looks like it's from petzl ?
Is this MT. Logan, over 19,000 ft.
Yes. Hummingbird Ridge. They bailed and lived. Screw dying.
Incredible Mental and physical conditioning for that.
looks a bit dangerous, lol
My name is Logan.
AW HOW CUTE SHE LOVES HIM
Stay away from cortisone...never leads to anything good🤦♂️
You know, 50 classic climbs are only somebody's opinion?
this is what happens when you have know life you try to become a hero bla
Sure true, it is from the climbers Steve Roper and Allen Steck. But among the alpine climbing community its a well known list and every one will know what you're talking about.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifty_Classic_Climbs_of_North_America
WHO
Almost everything in life is just a matter of opinion. Who wins the Nobel Prize in literature is "only" somebody's opinion. Who gets into the Pro Football Hall of Fame is "only" somebody's opinion.
And most of them are awesome. A few others are death traps. I would be shocked if anyone ever climbs all 50.
Apparently I am deadly
And what's the point of getting there?
The point is it's effing hard and dangerous and very few climbers have the ability to try to do it. If you climb, you understand. If you don't climb, you cannot understand.
@@russelldevaney7001 I am a hunter and I climb mountains too, even for feeding and bringing water to the animals we put ourselfs in danger, but I can't understand this climbing at all.
@@housearea it's challenging and a ton of fun. Like I said, if you don't want to do it, it will never make sense. It's like I don't understand people who smoke or overeat or drive impaired or any of the many things that add danger, but no fun, to our lives. To each their own.
Re the pain in the hips,eat vegetarian and start taking boron supplement.Cut out refined foods and alcohol.
NOTICE SHES AT THE HOSPITAL ALONE HE REALLY DOES CARE
pushes his girlfriend to the point she needs her hips done these guy is a fool she will never climb again way to look after your women what a fool
poor girl he was going to push her to climb anyway what a fool i like there baby talk
Its only stated she has hip pain. That can be something easily to be corrected. And she definitely isnt pushed to climbing at that level but its at the core of her life choices. Very possible she has returned to climbing. Dont be that negative and judgemental from the outside.