Mt Waddington's South Face - Smiley's Project Committed
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Here is the lastest episode from the Mark & Janelle Smiley's journey to climb the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The South Face of Mt Waddington is located in British Columbia's remote Coast Range.
Learn more about their multi-year project:
www.smileysproject.com
SmileysProject
Filmed by:
Chris Werner
Mark Smiley
Janelle Smiley
Edited by:
Mark Smiley
Climbing Photographs:
Chris Werner
Lake Tahoe Based Photographer
www.chriswernerphoto.com
Route Photo of Mt Waddington:
Chris Atkinson, Marc Piche, & Kevin McLane
For the upcoming Canadian Alpine Classics, High Col Press.
www.alpinecanadaproject.ca/index.html
Music:
-Hey Love by Miner
-As Colorful As Ever by Broke For Free
-Movement Proposition by Luciano Foglia
-Father Sleep by Burgendy Reel
-Enter the Maze by Kevin MacLeod
-Computer by State Shirt
Special Thanks to all our Kickstarter Backers for their generous support! We are forever thankful for your donations.
Special thanks to Colin Haley, Fred Beckey, Don Serl, Jack Tackle, Kevin McLane & Allen Steck for their contributions to route accuracy, quotes, and inspiration.
We did a lot of mixed climbing when I was a younger man, mostly in the Sierra, the Cascades, and the Alaskan Range. Got so use to the rock and ice fall it didn't really bother me. Of course you learn pretty quick how to predict a rock's fall line so you just start thinking of yourself as being that good. The thing that bothers me now that I'm well past my most adventurous years is that in many cases we were just blessed with stupid luck. I can think of a few occurrences that probably should have killed at least one of us but we got away with it by a whisker. All you hot shots, please be careful. There is a lot of good living waiting for you on the other side of your climbing years. Great climb by the way but I still hate midnight starts :)
Isn't alpine climbing always like that? Taking lots of small calculated risks that seem ok at the time but cumulatively maybe aren't.
E.g. in the Mont Blanc range abseiling off one piton that's the normal way down according to the guidebook, but may have been hammered into the rock face twenty years ago, and it's chrome-moly steel so it's probably rusted to a greater or lesser degree from all the freeze-thaw cycles over those twenty years, but you can't see the part of the piton that's in the rock.
That was a great climb, brilliantly done with a great team.
great video, thanks. like the descent as most people don't show that part of climbing.
exactly, and thats the scariest part in my mind.
Love the positivity expressed throughout all the hardships. You look like a great team :)
I guess it is kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Denver Brayan ehh I watch on Flixportal. you can find it if you google :) -ayden
@Ayden Camdyn Thanks, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D Appreciate it !!
@Denver Brayan No problem xD
My partner Andreas Uttendorfer and I made an attempt on the south face in 1984. Our plan was a traverse, descending the chockstone chimney/gully on the north side. We approached from Knights inlet by sea plane, it was my dream to climb it in the style of the pioneers, from sea level. We had a beautiful hike in, three days with heavy loads. We carried a rifle, an "over/under" for bear protecting and hunting. We ate ptarmigan. We climbed up to the the base and bivyed and got hit with an intense lightning storm and 6" of fresh snow. We had to let it go. We got picked up at Knights inlet by Andreas's mother and father in-law in their fishing boat out of Port Hardy. By the way another accent of note was the winter ascent in '50 by Allen Steck.
A third man, Peter Buck came along to help carry the load.
Wow. I did a NOLS course in the Waddington range and the hike down to Canyon Lake along the "old logging roads" was the most difficult hike I have ever done. Hiking all the way to the inlet is impressive.
Amazingly beautiful 🤩 thank you for sharing
Bravery and Perseverance with Inspired Hearts! Much to be Admired! Wonderful to live to share your Passion and Smiles with others! Thanks.
What a mountain! Beautifully produced story of your climb--thanks for sharing.
"The description said 50 degrees, it looked more like 80 degrees" Lmao felt that.
Watching for like the fourth time. Wow
What a sufferfest! Love the exhaustion near the end. I could almost feel it. Nice work, kids.!
Unreal!
This video made the palms of my hands start to sweat.
I adore backpacking, hikes and all that stuff. Every summer me and my dad go on 3-5 trips it’s so fun. Loves the video keep up the great work!
Very good video that actually shows the difficult parts of climbing, not just the hero parts.
Y'all are rad!! Love this channel! Beckey climbed that with when he was like 18-19 with his 17 year old brother Helmy. You're probably like the 10-11th summiters
It's beyond us how this incredible adventure only has 100 views. That makes no sense.
This was one of the most riveting climb report videos we have ever seen. You've won yourselves a new subscriber. Glad you made it back down.
The Smileys have some of my favorite climbing videos.
you guys are my heroes!
thanks for the beta. first thing I did is take it off my mountain project todo list. XD
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴
Am I mistaken or is that rock on Waddington a really solid crystalline metamorphic rock? Looks great. And what a climb! Amazing amazing content!
Don’t think they’ll be another repeat of the original route on the Wadd for a very long time.
Wow, @#$%ing awsome climb. Sheer rush feeling when facing a cliff like that, but there was 3 of U 2gether, safety in #s. Glad none of U got hurt doing the climb. Thx 4 sharing on the internet. Keep on climbing & b safe.
Legendary!
Unreal. Great job!
You guys are awesome keep the adventure going!
1942 second ascent by Fred Beckey, (19 years old) and his younger brother Helmy.
teogo is
All the early climbers approached from the west on foot, this approach here was from the east by air. In the early days, climbers took a boat to the head of Knight Inlet, a 110 km long fiord, then bushwacked dozens of kilometers through temperate rainforest choked valleys along glacial rivers to reach one of the several 30 km long glaciers that flow down from the peak. Bears and cougars were everywhere then, and still are, although there are old logging roads now.
@@davidmarshall718 thats so cool, did you learn this from a book? would be grateful if you had any recommendations.
@@joshfraser8887 ---Anything by or about Phyliss and Don Munday, the legendary early explorers of the region in the early 1900's.
@@davidmarshall718 nice man! I've read a bit about them in "the glorious mountains of vancouvers north shore", ill definitely check out more. thanks for that
Climbed about 3-4 pitches of rock above the steep snow/ice traverse in 1993. Bailed, almost killed by rockfall so many times. Did pseudo bivouac under small overhang until midnight waiting for freeze.
yikes. yeah we were thrilled it was a cold night and day while we rappelled down the main couloir. Definitely no shortage of loose rock up there.
You guys are the true mountaineers. Watching this alone gives me chill. Judging by objectives difficulty, this summit is way harder than K2. If this mountain has as many climbers as Everest, I bet the fatality rate would be over 50%.
Wayyyyyyyy cool. Well videod.
Underrated
Awesome video Mark!
Great film!
Muito bom!
The guys who did it decades ago were some tough bastards
this is awesome!
Mike King flew in both of my re-rations when I did a NOLS Mountaineering course in the Waddington range
mike king is the man
Same for us. He also flew us in some extra gear we needed.
that was really cool, looks scary as hell
Totally insane!
nice job
Nice climb!
Worth getting back alive! Enjoy all your videos especially this one! Brave, Courageous, and Bold! Wish you could do a presentation for the YOSEMITE FACELIFT!!! Contact Ken Yager of the YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION! Thanks so much! Best, Steve Thaw, Moraga, California
fantastic climbing guys and pretty lady! objective hazard was brutal - I don't think I would have had the stones to fight through all that to tick a summit.....for me it is all about the journey - that's how I justify bailing on everything...lol
Beautiful day, beautiful achievement. Nice photos. Envy anyone who could follow Wiessner and House up this. Too bad it was only '5.7'
The descend looks frightening.
badass
After a 27+ hour rappel ... hey who killed the doughnuts? Wow ... mad respect! I would be afraid of eating that last doughnut...
wouldn't it be much easier in late summer?
Have you been on Deltaform?
Is this the same route the beckey brothers did back in the day? Does anyone know
most of it is the same. We deviated right of their line for the last four of five top pitches. And just for the record, it was Beckey and his brother.
Does anyone know what packs they are using?
What kind of stove were you using? I own/have owned 30+ camp stoves and are familiar with most but I don't recognize the one you're using.
Soto Muka. Its awesome and works better than MSR imo.
At 0:34 what is this brush?
Really impressive video! All that constant exposure! Congratulations! That ain't for me. I like to watch though.
We must remember the mundays, aa
Very true, The Mundays. Don and Phyllis are legendary in BC history, having discovered and reconoitered the range on many occassions in the 1920's, without any air support, bushwacking up the rainforest choked lower valleys. They reached the false summit, close to the final summit tower.
Now there is a alpine women,lucky
this guy is a complete fool I like the way he talks down to her embarrassing but then again look at her she is not that good looking
it doesn't matter what you think bitch
I thought it was my Washington in new Hampshire .then I saw the peaks an that’s not the white mountains ⛰
Yuppies are weird.
As hard as everest lmao. Honestly though, looks harder than rainier
Too much eating.
mark ius good in fact he is the best just ask him shes in the way