Slovak Direct, Denali - Houseman/Bullock
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- At the end of June this year Nick Bullock and myself were fortunate enough to be able to make a rare ascent (6th overall) of the Slovak Direct on the nearly 3000m South Face of Denali 6194m in Alaska.
The four days we spent on the route gave us some of the most intense and committed but rewarding climbing either of us have done in the mountains.
Music
Liars - The Exact Colour of Doubt
Radiohead - Reckoner
Smalltown DJ's - Best of 2011
the National - Sorrow
Unbelievable Truth - Higher Than Reason
Seven years later and this is still the best alpine climbing video I've seen. Thanks to Andy and Nick for sharing your experience with us!
yes it is a great video. you should check this video out as well if you haven't already seen it. ua-cam.com/video/Uq_Ih_r7QLk/v-deo.html
thanks for all the positive comments! nothing fancy to film it with, I had a Canon Powershot S100 and Nick had a Panasonic TZ20, well impressed with the quality from both
the best part of this video is at 8:41 when he says "look at it!" he just has such a sense of childlike wonder and appreciation of the view. this is what we climb for.
yet they don't show the view :(
unbelievably beautiful route. You've got to admire the guts of the guys that made the first ascent (with '84 gear).
10 years later and Im still in awe of their style, they protect it like it's moderate rock on a sunny day.
I absolutely love that all of us armchair mountaineers can watch these amazing climbs. Thanks for an amazing video.
Simply the most beautiful video I have ever seen. Don't you love it when you find that great climbing buddy. No competition. No "who gets first". Only amazing team work, spirit and synchronization. What is best: They are enjoying every second of it.
These guys do this thing, film it so the internet alpinists can watch it from their parents basement and the comments back are about the music? It would be a privilege to watch even if accompanied by the mormon tabernacle choir.
Awesome
This comment made my day. So true
I wanted to say, I'm glad they didn't go with super cheesy over-dramatic dubstep like everyone else seems to :D
I’m in my garage.... my mom actually lives with me.. not the other way around. Lol I turn sound down and listen to metal instead
Who's out here complaining about radiohead?
Yeeeah soo many comments about the music... not
This is such a great video. I watch it regularly. What a route. Great climbing guys.
Watching again 2020 !
Spectacular climbing, teamwork, attitude, and filming - thanks so much for putting this magnificent climb on film and sharing it.
Thanks to Slovak, Bullock and you tube, I can climb mountains with you with no sweat! I love this...SWEET! Beautiful and so very Amazing! Awesome too! SMILES! I love the music. Thanks again!
If there a better alpine video on the internet I haven’t found it! Cracking climb and bonus points for the self filming.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with the world. This video perfectly captures the essence of what so many fail to understand - why we climb these mountains. THIS is why. How can anyone watch and not be completely drawn in, not watch again right after it's over. Then just imagine being there. Feeling on the edge, but in the clouds and closer to God and his magnificent creations. Congrats on this epic climb and thanks again for posting. You guys rock!!!!
Lol all it did was terrify me to the thought of ice climbing even more. I trad climb alot but still the thought of avalanches and somehow managing to cut both my twins with crampons or ice axes scares the piss out of me. To be fair though 2 years ago the idea of trusting self placed gear was terrifying to me and now I've gotten to the point where I have 0 nervousness about trad routes. I'd probably try it out on TR in a non backwoods setting though.
It's been 9 years and I still find this video the most inspiring mountaineering clip ever hands down.
Sadly, I'm stuck on a flat tropical island and will have to wait till covid restrictions are lifted before I can head into the mountains again.
Keep climbing everyone! Stay safe in the hills and far away from covid.
the best climbing video I have seen on youtube so far. congratulation
awesome photography , complimented by fantastic climbing!
watching this over and over again. dreaming big, and working towards it. one step at a time.
Awesome footage and great climbing. We did a first ascent variation and first alpine style ascent of the NW Buttress twenty years ago last month so it was cool seeing all that familiar scenery.
Who needs television when we have this? Well made, good production, entertaining, not too long, the story moved at a nice pace, most enjoyable. Please post more of your climbs.
One of the most inspiring alpine climbing Videos ever!
I love the spirit. So much joy and happyness despite the crueling effort and sometime dangerous conditions. Looking for this too in my life!
Just an amazing route and done in such good humour and style even after the 27 hour push. Great video, So inspiring.
Awesome route!!! You two are Giants, well done and well filmed!
Best 20 minutes on UA-cam. Amazing job climbing and documenting.
YOU GUYS ARE INSANE WOW WTF!!! HOLY SMOKE CONGRATS MAN
You guys are batshit crazy! Thanks for taking us on the ride with ya. : )
Righteous footage. Thanks gents. I've been up the West Butt and have longed to return for the Cassin or Slovak Direct. You captured some of the most mysterious pitches brilliantly. I'm inspired. Cheers.
Climbing and radiohead, nice
Awesome climb and the best climbing video this retired climber has ever seen. You have my deepest respect.
Great video. I climbed McKinley in 1973. Great mountain.
god watching this reminds me of how cold it is up there. I spent 4 nights at 17,300 on the muldrow back in 2011. absolutely awesome but soooo cold.
this video is sweet! thanks for the upload
Great video guys, filming was superb, thanks for all the beta! Adding this to the list now.
It's nice to see a climbing video that actually shows the route on the mountain itself, great photography, I won't say anything about the music...............
This video is a gift. Thanks Andy and Nick.
What a fantastic climb! Nice work. That's not the route I could try, but that was quite inspirational. I plan on doing the West Buttress route in summer 2016 which seems ridiculously simple in comparison to this video.
Denali has the most wonderful shades of granite and the whitest purest tones of snow. To me it is the most beautiful mountain in the world (except when it rains) -just stunning to hike, climb and fly around -rising from the sea to the boreal forests to the tundra and bright green foothills to the glaciers, baby blue lakes, in the summer 3000 ft waterfalls falling from minor cirques above the Ruth Glacier, to the just massive granite faces and seracs in a perpetual frozen winterland.
I've been lucky to circle it for hours enjoying the sights in a private jet on a perfectly clear day which is ultra rare there at the summits of Denali and Foraker. Also lucky to explore the trails and bouldering on foot and from a little prop plane barreling through the seemingly endless ridges, cols, and gorges that emanate out 20-40 miles in each direction under the summit.
Denali is also the largest mass you can experience in person on Earth -it really defies proportion -to stand under it is get a new sense of scale. If you have never been to Denali -do yourself a favor and go -those Glaciers have been disappearing extremely fast and who knows what the future climate will bring.
if you want something a little harder than the west buttress then i would suggest a upper west rib climb
Way to go guys! Thanks for sharing!!!
truly excellent music choice on this one, excellent video!
Amazing. Simply amazing.
Wow, great footage and amazing route. Looked like a ton of beautiful pitches.
Well done Lads. Like you said..."unbelievable".
And done in good form too.
Amazing place and awesome job with this video. Your climb inspires!
these two seem like really likeable guys! well done chaps
wonderful film, I was feeling like holding the ice axes in my own hands while whatching...
Just come across this. Brilliant video and documenting of an epic adventure. Saw some clips from it a few years back when I went to see Nick do a talk at Kendal Fest, cheers for sharing publicly! I’m off climbing now…
Impressive!!!! Its only the music that I would change for the sound of nature to have an epic vid!
Love living vicariously through these videos 😁
Sick Climb fellas! Thanks for the inspiration....
Problem with you tube is that it makes me feel super inadequate sometimes.
the BEST mountaineering video on UA-cam! Very nice!
Had the pleasure working for the houseman family.top bunch..well done andrew.great to watch..ya f.n mad.
Very impressive! What an amazing way to take down the beast.
What a great climb guys! My dream is to climb Denali.
Gabriel Soto luckily I get to look at Denali in every clear day from my home.
Brilliant video. Some great shots, (esp given what you both were doing). A great inspiration, thanks for sharing! Next please…;)
I dont climb ANYTHING this committing or challenging but this is my GO TO hype video. Absolutely inspiring.
Love and respect ✊.Thank you for sharing!!!
Such a cool vid guys... awesome trip!!! sure you guys are still living in the memory of those weeks!!!
Amazing climb, video and music!
Great Radiohead track
10 from 10 not to top the happiness the music both boys
Fantastic video and great choice of music (rare for outdoor videos). The handheld and not (or less) postprocessed footage gives such a better impression of the climb than drone shots and interrupted by deep statements of how "climbing changed my life".
Only would have wished footage of the descent :)
Best ever and best music.. entrancing..
The photo at the end is wonderfull! :-)
oh yeah, Slovak Direct : great video guys
Finally some awesome alpine style mixed climbing, "Just look at it"!
You can get smaller versions of this by going to Glencoe, Benn Nevis or Skye in Scotland around mid January, not quite as epic but its doable with the right training and equipment, a realistic goal and the sense of achievement is just as immense! I love Scotland
You and Dave Macleod
Me every time it pops up I watch it again
Great movie
Well done lads😊
Amazing. Well done. And amazing film, well done :-)
So really awesome! Thanks alot for sharing, really inspires me alot!
Incredible work Andy and Nick! Your effort is a great inspiration for my own alpine pursuits.
Brilliant! Fantastic film.
Every credit guys, it's good to see some lads from th'up North on the Slovak!
This was a beautiful film
This is hard man,more than everest or no?Velik pozdrav iz Slovenije....hvala ti.🖖☮..be fine
I had the honor of knowing Scott Balkes, the pioneer of this route in the 70's. He is an exemplary person and an amazing athlete.
You guys inspire me to go harder and higher than ever before!
What a video! So inspiring.
Great video. Superb ballsy climbing. Tremendous environment.
Bad Ass climb! Great filming. Thanks!
Best climbing video yet! I wanna see the way down too!
loved it boys keep up the work
Well done guys! Great vid!
Congrats guys
Totally amazing climb and video! Am so inspired by your efforts! Thanks.
I was up there in April/May this year on a different route... fantastic achievement guys, what an effort and spirit, good on you! :)
What an amazing climb. Thanks a lot for that twenty-minute fascinating adventure!
What an amazing technical climb. Also I always appreciate the use of Weird Fishes (edit: Reckoner lol)
Great video guys! What a trip 💪🏼💪🏼
I have thoroughly enjoyed this!
Awesome effort fella. Will be spreading the link with the rest of The North Face crew. Inspiring.
Reason to live. Fantastic!
Props guys. I've done the trade route on Denali twice and can't imagine belaying in the cold that mountain is capable of.
Absolutely beautiful !!!
Simply terrific
Bellissimi luoghi e riprese super !!!
Amazing! What a couple of mountain goat lads!
That was epic, route looked like some though effort
Couldn't stop watching this video , its brilliant ! Super well done lads :-)
Great video.Thanks for sharing it.
Absolutely amazing !!! Great job!!!! Thanks for this video.
Damn I wish this didn't get blocked. I was stoked to watch this.