Had to change my 2003 KLR rear tire on the road (for the first time). I wasn't sure if I had gotten the chain tension right. I watched a lot of video's but none were as thorough as yours. I see my rear is not in align so will head out to the garage to get the tension right and ensure it is aligned properly. Thank you. Great video!
When I adjust my KLR650 chain i tried both the 2.4" method and the rubber "quick check" methods. The 2.4" was much too tight once weight was put on the bike but the rubber quick check method was basically perfect. Good video.
Great video, even years later. Only thing I’d add is a zip tie behind the 12 mm jam nut to prevent it from backing off, if by some reason it ever loosens up.
This is a great video, i used it to see how tight my chain needed to be. One thing i would like to add to it would be that you should check the distance at the tightest part of the chain, as sometimes chains don't always wear the same all around it. Thanks for the vid. BT
I have a stainless steel header and LEXX slip on exhaust , and to many aftermarket parts to improve my bike to list. KLR 650 is a damn good bike if you do full maintenance it will run great for a long time.
Hey , great video ! Very easy to understand. I like the quick method of checking the chain slack. I just finished tightening up my chain thanks to your video.
adjusted my chain exactly as you stated, it's tight as a drum at 2 inches to the top of the chain. loosened it so it will almost touch the rubber on the upper swing arm and my slack now shows over 2.5 inches.
I installed a quality Gold o ring chain with Super sprox gold rear and steel front in stock gearing I adjusted mine one time and had stayed in spec for miles and miles using cheapo chain and sprockets do not save you money in the long haul. Yo KLR guy i have the same model as you and it runs beautifully.
To be fair, in the video, he appears to be using the solid shaft to loosen the nut. If you don't use the pivot handle, you won't damage the torque wrench.
It does say to do this, but like the poster says, the danger is too loose a chain (which is better than too tight.) On my bike, it seems like the suspension compresses very little when unloaded, as well. I have a length of wood I wedge under the right side frame to get the rear wheel off the ground; takes about 3 seconds to get it in the air. (Wedging it under the swingarm obviously is not a good idea in this case.)
I wouldn't trust the factory marks to be sure your tire is lined up as I've seen many bikes where those marks are off. Best way is to line up two long straight edges on each side of and against the rear tire that extend past the front tire when the bike is upright and check they are equidistant from each side of the front tire. An easier way is to check the tire is physically centered in the swingarm with the same amount of clearance on both sides at the front of the rear tire.
Great video, thanks for the information. I just have to say though, the 2 adjuster bolts (with 2 nuts each) don't seem very secure for the job they're intended for! You would think they would be self locking nuts or something along those lines. I just don't trust that little 2nd nut to hold it in place.
If you happen to notice shifting from 1st to 2nd gear is not smooth, check your chain. By the time your chain is loose enough to effect the 2nd gear shift; it's way too loose! (Don't ask me how I know that...LOL!)
about a 1/4 turn. that'd be 90º, not the 180º half turn that you made on the first adjustment on the right side. if you get that wrong and the two sides are not equal, allowing the axle to be perpendicular and square to the frame, you will get really, really bad wobble at speed. there is also a fair amount of slop in both of those adjuster reference tabs. make sure they are both pulled all the way back or you can have up to a 1/4" of misalignment, which will cause wobble at speeds too.
good instructional...gramp told me never use the torque for anything but final torque...well done though..I subscribed...do you have a video on installing a usb dc dual charger that will mount to handle bars?
If you have weight on the bike. Your weight, and equipment, etc, can you get a reliable chain tension check by reaching down and lifting up on your chain. Should it be like most other bikes, and somewhere around an inch of travel, or is there some other measurement that would be in the ballpark? Torqueing the axle nut, normal torque procedure (I think), is to torque to the value, then turn back to the cotter pin hole. Better to be slightly under torque, than to over torque and damage something.
Seeing as very many video watchers will NOT read the comments (including a CORRECT way to measure chain slack), it might be a good idea to take down or hide this video until you can redo it. Otherwise, somebody could get hurt and maybe even point to your instructional video as the cause. Not flaming. Just trying to help.
Sorry, but the manual clearly states that the measurement is how far the chain can move up and down, not how far it is from the swing arm. This is not even taking into account that people have various sprocket configurations. Also, it's best to measure the offset using calipers, or at least a ruler since even small changes effect tire wear and stability in turns.
cyrex686 second this. I originally set my new chain at about 2.25 inches from the center swing arm mark as instructed by several different UA-cam videos and got some howling/clattering from the front sprocket. After going through the manual I loosened the chain so I had about 2.125 vertical movement in the chain at the swing arm center point. Although I don't remember the numbers exactly this gave me more than 2.5 inches from the bottom of the swing arm to the chain at rest. Noise went away
Good video, but your measurement on your tri square maybe off. You state that measurement is between 2 and 2.4 inches. 2.4 is 2 13/16. Your distance on the tape looks more like 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. Quite a difference
Thanks for the video, still helpful 10 years later!
Had to change my 2003 KLR rear tire on the road (for the first time). I wasn't sure if I had gotten the chain tension right. I watched a lot of video's but none were as thorough as yours. I see my rear is not in align so will head out to the garage to get the tension right and ensure it is aligned properly. Thank you. Great video!
Dude thank you for this video. So many of the videos out there assume a base level of knowledge, which I just don't have.
This video was a lifesaver.
Well done. No frills. Good detail. No shaky camera, thank you for that. Keep going. 😀
Awesome! Thanks for all the effort, time and videography to easily and clearly teach me how to adjust the KLR650 chain. Great job sir!
I'm a new KLR owner this video is excellent. Thank you.
Great video thanks for being thorough, klr riders will be watching for years to come
I know it's been a few years since you posted this video but it was very helpful. Thank you posting it. Great job!
Needed this for the bike I bought yesterday, thank you!
When I adjust my KLR650 chain i tried both the 2.4" method and the rubber "quick check" methods. The 2.4" was much too tight once weight was put on the bike but the rubber quick check method was basically perfect.
Good video.
Wow dude. Clear, succinct, simple. Awesome! Thanks.
Thanks! Great instructions! 3:19 and 3:49 is what I needed to see so I can get my KLR650 chain were it needs to be! Thanks again!
thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. I think it will save me some time and maybe a busted knuckle or two!
Great video, even years later. Only thing I’d add is a zip tie behind the 12 mm jam nut to prevent it from backing off, if by some reason it ever loosens up.
This is a great video, i used it to see how tight my chain needed to be. One thing i would like to add to it would be that you should check the distance at the tightest part of the chain, as sometimes chains don't always wear the same all around it. Thanks for the vid. BT
One of the best "How Too" vids !! Cheers
I have a stainless steel header and LEXX slip on exhaust , and to many aftermarket parts to improve my bike to list. KLR 650 is a damn good bike if you do full maintenance it will run great for a long time.
Hey , great video !
Very easy to understand. I like the quick method of checking the chain slack. I just finished tightening up my chain thanks to your video.
adjusted my chain exactly as you stated, it's tight as a drum at 2 inches to the top of the chain. loosened it so it will almost touch the rubber on the upper swing arm and my slack now shows over 2.5 inches.
Great video! I learned a lot. I didn't know that those adjustment screws were changing the distance your axle was from the front of the bike. 5:10
An oldie, but a goody!!
Thank you for the upload.. no bs.. straight to the point.. all facts.. 💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪
You sure helped to make it simple. Great video
Hey, good job. Just found this. You really helped me get started on learning how to approach tightening my chain. Thanks.
Great video. Answered some questions I had. Thank you
You're the best and thanks a million
Excellent video...straight forward and simple...
Thanks for sharing...
thank you very much, now i know how to fix the problem !! very clear thanks bro
I installed a quality Gold o ring chain with Super sprox gold rear and steel front in stock gearing I adjusted mine one time and had stayed in spec for miles and miles using cheapo chain and sprockets do not save you money in the long haul. Yo KLR guy i have the same model as you and it runs beautifully.
Thank you for your maintenance videos.
Awesome vid! Super helpful.
just an FYI it is poor practice to loosen things with a torque wrench. it will throw it out of spec very quickly.
Not true at all.
Agreed, only a FOOL would loosen a faster with a torque wrench
To be fair, in the video, he appears to be using the solid shaft to loosen the nut. If you don't use the pivot handle, you won't damage the torque wrench.
Perfect, detailed instructions well done
BRILLIANT VIDEO
Excellent video, thank you!
Nice demo!
Quick question: Do you measure the chain at the chain link pin, or at the bottom of the chain itself?
It does say to do this, but like the poster says, the danger is too loose a chain (which is better than too tight.) On my bike, it seems like the suspension compresses very little when unloaded, as well.
I have a length of wood I wedge under the right side frame to get the rear wheel off the ground; takes about 3 seconds to get it in the air. (Wedging it under the swingarm obviously is not a good idea in this case.)
I wouldn't trust the factory marks to be sure your tire is lined up as I've seen many bikes where those marks are off. Best way is to line up two long straight edges on each side of and against the rear tire that extend past the front tire when the bike is upright and check they are equidistant from each side of the front tire. An easier way is to check the tire is physically centered in the swingarm with the same amount of clearance on both sides at the front of the rear tire.
Great video, thanks for the information. I just have to say though, the 2 adjuster bolts (with 2 nuts each) don't seem very secure for the job they're intended for! You would think they would be self locking nuts or something along those lines. I just don't trust that little 2nd nut to hold it in place.
Very helpful...thanks for this video!
RIDE ON BROTHER!
Thanks. Professionally produced.
Amazing video
Great video...keep em coming! Thanks!!
Very helpful - thanks!
well done video thank you.
Well done!
Thank you for the video.
Very good thanks.
If you happen to notice shifting from 1st to 2nd gear is not smooth, check your chain. By the time your chain is loose enough to effect the 2nd gear shift; it's way too loose! (Don't ask me how I know that...LOL!)
about a 1/4 turn. that'd be 90º, not the 180º half turn that you made on the first adjustment on the right side.
if you get that wrong and the two sides are not equal, allowing the axle to be perpendicular and square to the frame, you will get really, really bad wobble at speed.
there is also a fair amount of slop in both of those adjuster reference tabs. make sure they are both pulled all the way back or you can have up to a 1/4" of misalignment, which will cause wobble at speeds too.
Good vid
good instructional...gramp told me never use the torque for anything but final torque...well done though..I subscribed...do you have a video on installing a usb dc dual charger that will mount to handle bars?
If you have weight on the bike. Your weight, and equipment, etc, can you get a reliable chain tension check by reaching down and lifting up on your chain. Should it be like most other bikes, and somewhere around an inch of travel, or is there some other measurement that would be in the ballpark?
Torqueing the axle nut, normal torque procedure (I think), is to torque to the value, then turn back to the cotter pin hole. Better to be slightly under torque, than to over torque and damage something.
You know what? Yer a good guy
so useful
Same specs with a 2024 adventure model?
Seeing as very many video watchers will NOT read the comments (including a CORRECT way to measure chain slack), it might be a good idea to take down or hide this video until you can redo it. Otherwise, somebody could get hurt and maybe even point to your instructional video as the cause. Not flaming. Just trying to help.
my manual says to do this while the bike is on a lift, won't that make a big difference?
very informative video. pretty sure the klymer book says to do this with the real wheel off the ground. do you think it makes a difference?
Thanks!
I just finished watching this video and I'm going to go ahead and call it good. Lololol. Great video otherwise:)
Nice vid. Really helped.
Thank you!
Nice job.
Great video man!
Good vid . Thanks !
subbed, great video thanks a bunch
use this today on my KLR. seems to have worked well
Boet, how do you manage to make a 10 minute video for something so simple....
Always measure chain slack with the bike on its side stand.
So you only have to loosen that axle bolt and tighten it on the one side? 9:50
Yes sir!
Thanks
Great info. No fluff.
Sorry, but the manual clearly states that the measurement is how far the chain can move up and down, not how far it is from the swing arm. This is not even taking into account that people have various sprocket configurations. Also, it's best to measure the offset using calipers, or at least a ruler since even small changes effect tire wear and stability in turns.
cyrex686 second this. I originally set my new chain at about 2.25 inches from the center swing arm mark as instructed by several different UA-cam videos and got some howling/clattering from the front sprocket. After going through the manual I loosened the chain so I had about 2.125 vertical movement in the chain at the swing arm center point. Although I don't remember the numbers exactly this gave me more than 2.5 inches from the bottom of the swing arm to the chain at rest. Noise went away
Yup, I think I'm going to have to make a better video on this. I figured out a really easy way to get the wheel alignment spot on too.
cyrex686
Please make that video. I need it yesterday.
Super!!! A+++++++++
Good video, but your measurement on your tri square maybe off. You state that measurement is between 2 and 2.4 inches. 2.4 is 2 13/16. Your distance on the tape looks more like 2 1/4 or 2 1/2. Quite a difference
.4 of an inch is most definitely not 13/16ths. Better recheck your math there.
@@asherharmon7217 correct.
Maybe 13/32.
never, ever, ever use a torque wrench to loosen bolts!!
I put some blue loctite on those guys--they don't go anywhere.
Might be a dumb question but you didn't go over what to do if the axel weren't in the same position? Which bolts should I adjust then?
the 14mm axel adjustment bolt on the side outta wack