NOTE: At 13:37 you should grind the head off the chain pin to make it easier to remove and not over stress your PBR tool. I did not grind it and it did work for me, but it is not recommended.
i dont get it. my new chain is about a foot too long and coated in some sort of grease. is that normal? it fits but i wasnt expecting to have to cut it down to get the ends to line up. also im guessing the axle can be left in the position of the first chain and adjusted from there with the new chain to get proper slack? seems like what you did.
@@_AndromedaGalaxy_ Yes, sometimes the chain will come is longer lengths. You can "break" the chain at the links by removing the pins and rejoining to make the needed length. As for your axle location, it should be in the middle of the travel range. this will allow for adjustment either way as needed. The chain will stretch a bit over time, so you will need room to adjust out to proper tension.
@@Tim2Wheels other problem I'm having is a clunking sound a bit slower than wheel speed which i think is from the chain. I think it may be too tight but I'm not certain yet. With only 11k miles I don't think it would be a bearing or cush insert. Had ppl tell me the sprocket should be changed as well but it doesn't look that bad yet, I've seen far worse.
@@_AndromedaGalaxy_ Try checking the alignment of the sprockets. That can make that sound. Your sprockets should be replaced with a new chain, but if they are in good condition you don't have to. If the sprockets are worn, they should be replaced.
Simply the best "how to" videos for anyone who owns a KLR650, I never bother looking anywhere else. Thanks very much for making instructional videos so clear, straight forward and interesting to watch.
I can't remember you mentioning it, but I believe that the chain slack is measured with the bike on it's side stand, so the suspension is slightly compressed, and not when it is up on the work stand. Great video!
Thanks so much for the helpful video. It seems that there is at least one exception to the note at 28:29, the sunstar 16 tooth sprocket I got has a wide lip on the opposite side of the engravings and after consulting the KLR forums, found out that the engraved side faces inward. Just wanted to put that out there, great video!
Amazing! I am in the process of replacing front and rear sprockets and chain with the Primary Drive Sprockets and Chain package from Rocky Mountain ATV, and I already own the PBR tool. Your video allowed me something complicated easy. God bless you! Great instruction.
Another thing to consider is applying the grease to the x-ring before sliding them onto the master link. That ensures that both sides of the x-ring are well coated with grease.
This video is super helpful and very informative. It was the first time that I did chain and sprockets replacement myself, and I couldn't have done it without this video. Thanks a bunch, Tim.
New to your blog Tim and preparing myself for KLR ownweship. Just wanted to commend you on your amazing instructional skills, fabrication craftsmanship, camera work and humility. Great work from Australia.
I followed your video and recommendations. Almost no issues. The only problem I had was the front sprocket bolt and the actual sprocket was seized. Used a small plastic bag to drench it with WD-40. Thank you for the details.
For someone who is not very mechanically inclined, I greatly appreciate the detail you provide in your videos. I've got about 16,000 miles on my 2015 KLR and it is time to replace the chain and sprockets. This video was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to produce it.
YoyoBandalore - Thanks for the kind words. I know it was a long video, but many viewers seem to like the detail. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Thanks, Tim, for sharing. As some have pretty much said, Tim’s videos are the go-to videos to watch if you own a KLR. Always well explained and plenty of detail for even the newest of riders. Great stuff Tim !
Another point. Since the o or x rings are there to keep the chain lube in, I always grease the pins of the connecting link before inserting them into the chain, as well as greasing the seals.
Around 36:45, when you're greasing the master link, the grease should go on before the outside rings as well as after, because the point of the seals is to prevent contaminants from entering the area between the pin and the shell, and because the lubricant protects the rings bearing against both the plates and the bearings. Furthermore some of that grease should be on the pin before you put it in. Essentially, there should be grease on every surface of the rings, the inner sides of the plates, and the pins BEFORE you assemble them.
Just did the chain and sprockets on my Gen 1, could I have figured it out using the shop manual, sure, but why not follow along another great video by Tim! Thanks Brother!
35:12 the lube should be pushed thu the tube of the link as well and both sides of the O- rings. That is what the factory did. Also no need to open the pliers so far , the tip of the pin is high enough to snap the clip into place . Great vids
Never could get the master link spring clip in place with two different pairs of needle nose pliers. Pushing down with a flat screwdriver instead worked in under 30 seconds.
Just having a re look at your "how to" for my KLR. I still check your site first, before getting the spanners out. Regards from S Africa. Clive P. S. Belated wishes for 2019. Ride with care.
Really appreciate all your videos that I have seen. 2015 KLR that I am performing winter work. Ordered the fork brace and the fender - excellent video. Changing to 16 tooth front sprocket for the very reasons you mentioned on the road test. Keep it up!!!
One minor thing I would have put that lube inside the holes in the links and insured there was lube surrounding the pins . The O rings keep that lube inside those passages with the pins . Wear occurs between the pin and inside those sleeves as well as the rollers . where do you think the factory prelubed those links ? You think they just sprayed it with chain wax ? No there should be lube protecting the pins inside each sleeve . And retained by the X ring / O rings . You have only added a little lube to either side of the plates the way you have done it. Great video other wise .
It's a good idea to remove the 12mm chain adjuster bolts out completely and clean it and lube it while your in that deep. The bolt can rust in side the swing arm ..... the last thing anyone needs is a rusty bolt in the swing arm ..... Hard place to work after the bolt snaps off . because it seized.
Remove the slack adjuster bolts clean and lube both of them. Prevent rust build up on them inside the swing arm where you cannot see them. Remove / Clean / Lube / put them back. No videos cover it . But there's a repair kit if you Let them seize in place !
Great video! I followed along while I did my drivetrain replacement today. When I torqued the nut holding the front/drive sprocket in place, there was enough room between the sprocket and nut that the lock washer could move about 2mm in and out. Is this okay? I did reuse the OEM nut.
I don't know anything. But looking at things I think the 'X" rings have more surface contact then the normal type. Two points of contact, instead of one.
One trick is to STOP do not completely remove the old chain..... Let it rest out of the way . Replace the sprocket . Then when your ready roll the old chain back around the front sprocket attach the new chain to the old one with master link , then roll it around pulling the new chain in . Some Bikes it's a pain trying to feed the new chain into place . Use this trick to save aggrevation.
That did not look like an impact socket. You mentioned that a screwdriver can shatter is used as a chisel and the same is true for standard sockets used on impact guns. Much better and safer to buy impact sockets.
@@alexmendoza6113 - The EM Prevailing nut acts like a lock nut, so the washer that is bent over to lock the OEM nut is not needed. Plus the EM nut can be re-used.
Hey Tim. I have a 2014 klr650 New Edition. I have done just about every mod you have done, and some you may not have done.. ive done this one, raised my suspension, fork upgrades, lowered foot pegs, replaced pegs and shift lever, risers, throttle lock, Delkevic exhaust, Uni air filter.... But I want to do the doohickey mod. I bought the Eagle Mike kit with tools.. but I have never opened up an engine.. ive always done simple maintenance, but I'm hesitant to get in to the engine. Have you done the doohicky mod, and what pointers could you give me? Ive watched every UA-cam video on it, and I understand what to do, but I'm really nervous about actually doing it.....
Re the chain slack adjustment at the end of the video: my 2012 KLR manual says the min-max deflection is from 35 to 45mm, or 1.4 to 1.8 inches. You're at 25 to 40mm... How come? Also, your taped-on gauge confuses me a bit - shouldn't you just mark 25 to 40 mm ABOVE the lower reference mark, in other words why do you also measure downward equally and put the two 25 and 40mm marks below the center reference on the tape? The chain sags (and you can just tug it down to get it to its absolute lower stretch limit) and all you need to do is push upwards to measure the deflection and ensure it is between the two spec limits. Seems like you're adjusting it for half the deflection it needs.
Instead of getting a PBR or other chain tool, couldn't you just use an angle grinder to cut the chain since you aren't going to use it again, especially since you're switching to a master link style connection?
True, but much better to use a riveted repair link. OTOH, an old master link is great to use to feed in the new chain. Tim was replacing the sprockets also so the technique isn’t as meaningful in this case, but if you are replacing only the chain, it works slick to connect the new to the old with a master link and then pull the new chain around the sprockets as you remove the old chain.
Tim, Evidently you have an air comperssor, In 10 seconds with an air or an electric angle grinder that chain is off!. It's not like your going to reuse that chain again. So why buy or need a fancy BS tool that takes all that time to screw with?.. Unless your advertising and gettting a kickback and a free chain breaker.. A free Eagle nut too? The good old way popping off chains still works for me after 55 years..
Curious how many miles were on the stock sprockets when you removed them. Also, thanks again for another great video. Now I know what I'm getting next. Could you put links to products you use in the description?
can you explain what you mean by "install the sprocket with the ToothID markings facing forward? I am going to give this is a go this weekend and your videos are excellent. Thanks for making them.
Hi Cliff, Most drive sprockets will have a tooth number stamped on the sprocket. That side should be installed facing outward. There is a bit of an offset to the drive sprockets, so there is a right and wrong way to install. Hope this helps. Good luck with your project.
So I can't get the torque wrench to break over 60. Anything more than that and the sprocket and engine turns. I'm afraid I'm going to break something. Any suggestions?
I'm sorry I wasn't very specific. I'm reassembling the front sprocket with a prevailing torque nut and anything over 60ft lbs turns the engine backwards.
brentagade - I put the bike in 1st gear and put a clamp on the rear brake (or you could have someone step on it for you). As you see in the video, that was enough to hold the sprocket for torque.
Thanks for replying. I had my brakes taken apart, as I was replacing tires, brakes, chain, and sprockets all in one shot. But 1st gear did help. I had it in an upper gear. Once I dropped it to 1st, that seemed to make a big difference. I'm sure the brakes would've helped too. I guess I missed that part originally. Anyway, I've been up and running and the 16 tooth is great. I'm glad I went that route. Thanks so much for your clear and detailed videos!!
27:23 Cush drive ... your in that deep why not remove and clean it . wipe the pockets out and a light coat of silicone spray on the rubber wipe it clean then drop it back in and also clean the tabs or lugs . Then your clean and the rubber will last even longer with the dirt and debris out of the cush. Your already there do the extra two minute clean up.
excellent video. Quick question: Did you purchase the kit for the sprockets and chain? Did this primary drive chain + sprocket kit come with the master link? I noticed they are sold separately and couldn't find a clear answer. Thanks!
Jesse Fretwell - I purchased my components seperately because I already had the 16 tooth drive srocket. The chain did come with one master link, but I purchased a 2nd one for my tool kit. It's always wise to have at least one spare.
Did you grind the rivet head before breaking the chain? I just tried breaking my KLR chain with a Motion Pro breaker and the extractor pin shattered. Looks like I'll have to get another extractor pin.
I ground off the rivet head and finally got the chain off. I've got the counter sprocket nut and washer off, but the counter sprocket will NOT budge. Any helpful hints on getting a stubborn counter sprocket off? I've soaked it in WD-40 hoping that will help, but no luck so far.
YoyoBandalore - If your sprocket has two threaded holes in it, you can use two bolts to drive through and press the sprocket off. But the best option is to use a gear puller to remove it. If you don't have a gear puller, you can rent them from your local auto parts store.
Well, after 2 days of soaking the counter sprocket with WD-40, lots of wiggling and multiple attempts using a small gear puller the sprocket FINALLY broke loose. Man, it was really stuck on there. Thank you for your helpful comments. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the remainder of tasks go as easy as they did in your video. :)
Funny how the *only* part of this that I'm having trouble with is getting the fucking wheel back on, and I'll and behold, it's the one party of the fucking process that you didn't go into excruciating, mind-numbing detail about!
Have you ever tried a 14 tooth front sprocket or have a video on it ?, I do a lot of slow riding in unknown type of trails and it really has me riding the clutch a lot, so thinking lowering the gearing, what do you think? thanks again,,,
Hi Paul, No, I personally have not tried a 14T drive gear. I have heard that it's great for "crawling" around off-road. It gives the KLR even better low end and makes it easier to pop wheelies too. You will pay for it on the highway though.
@@Tim2Wheels In the Philippines some 10 years ago I could have used a 14 tooth. It was the only time in my life I’ve ever had my fuel tank boiling like a kettle. I was doubling with my gf up a fairly steep hill. I didn’t know fuel could boil before that point. The cap was whistling like a kettle. Was worried so left it alone till it cooled.
wdmd11 - The chain and both sprockets were Primary Drive brand. There are several good brands to choose from, Primary Drive product are good quality at a fair price.
I don't have any special info for new chains. All new chains I have purchased were lubricated from the factory and sealed in a bag. I install them and then maintain/lubricate normally. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
It fit my bike with good alignment. The off-set must have compensated for that. If you have concerns, I would recommend you talk with the manufacturer of the sprocket you choose to be sure. Thanks for the question.
When I changed these, the bike had just under 20,000 miles (19,930) on it. I don't know if the previous owner had ever changed them. Of course, the mileage you get out of a set will depend on how and where you ride as well as how you maintain your chain.
@@Tim2Wheels ok thanks, did you train train start to become uneven when accelerating and what not. Perhaps even bumpy? I'm assuming these are signs of the drivetrain, is that accurate?
NOTE: At 13:37 you should grind the head off the chain pin to make it easier to remove and not over stress your PBR tool. I did not grind it and it did work for me, but it is not recommended.
i dont get it. my new chain is about a foot too long and coated in some sort of grease. is that normal? it fits but i wasnt expecting to have to cut it down to get the ends to line up. also im guessing the axle can be left in the position of the first chain and adjusted from there with the new chain to get proper slack? seems like what you did.
@@_AndromedaGalaxy_ Yes, sometimes the chain will come is longer lengths. You can "break" the chain at the links by removing the pins and rejoining to make the needed length. As for your axle location, it should be in the middle of the travel range. this will allow for adjustment either way as needed. The chain will stretch a bit over time, so you will need room to adjust out to proper tension.
@@Tim2Wheels other problem I'm having is a clunking sound a bit slower than wheel speed which i think is from the chain. I think it may be too tight but I'm not certain yet. With only 11k miles I don't think it would be a bearing or cush insert. Had ppl tell me the sprocket should be changed as well but it doesn't look that bad yet, I've seen far worse.
@@_AndromedaGalaxy_ Try checking the alignment of the sprockets. That can make that sound. Your sprockets should be replaced with a new chain, but if they are in good condition you don't have to. If the sprockets are worn, they should be replaced.
Do you still need to use the washer with the prevailing nut or is not necessary and you did it as an extra precaution.?
Simply the best "how to" videos for anyone who owns a KLR650, I never bother looking anywhere else. Thanks very much for making instructional videos so clear, straight forward and interesting to watch.
Hey, thanks for the comments Pez, and thanks for watching.
Didn't even realize that was a 45 minute video. Hats off to you for making something like this interesting for that long.
I can't remember you mentioning it, but I believe that the chain slack is measured with the bike on it's side stand, so the suspension is slightly compressed, and not when it is up on the work stand. Great video!
Followed this to the letter on my gen 1 KLR. Thanks for being so descriptive! Much appreciated.
Thanks so much for the helpful video. It seems that there is at least one exception to the note at 28:29, the sunstar 16 tooth sprocket I got has a wide lip on the opposite side of the engravings and after consulting the KLR forums, found out that the engraved side faces inward. Just wanted to put that out there, great video!
Amazing! I am in the process of replacing front and rear sprockets and chain with the Primary Drive Sprockets and Chain package from Rocky Mountain ATV, and I already own the PBR tool. Your video allowed me something complicated easy. God bless you! Great instruction.
Thank you Captain KLR - I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Tim, you have the best motorcycle maintenance videos. Love the full explanations. You should have 1,000,000 subscribers!
Another thing to consider is applying the grease to the x-ring before sliding them onto the master link. That ensures that both sides of the x-ring are well coated with grease.
This video is super helpful and very informative. It was the first time that I did chain and sprockets replacement myself, and I couldn't have done it without this video. Thanks a bunch, Tim.
New to your blog Tim and preparing myself for KLR ownweship. Just wanted to commend you on your amazing instructional skills, fabrication craftsmanship, camera work and humility. Great work from Australia.
Thanks for the feedback David. And thanks for watching.
a riveting rendition of this procedure.mahalos for all the detailed specs.
Thanks, I do appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching.
I followed your video and recommendations. Almost no issues. The only problem I had was the front sprocket bolt and the actual sprocket was seized. Used a small plastic bag to drench it with WD-40. Thank you for the details.
For someone who is not very mechanically inclined, I greatly appreciate the detail you provide in your videos. I've got about 16,000 miles on my 2015 KLR and it is time to replace the chain and sprockets. This video was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to produce it.
YoyoBandalore - Thanks for the kind words. I know it was a long video, but many viewers seem to like the detail. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Thanks, Tim, for sharing. As some have pretty much said, Tim’s videos are the go-to videos to watch if you own a KLR. Always well explained and plenty of detail for even the newest of riders. Great stuff Tim !
Another point. Since the o or x rings are there to keep the chain lube in, I always grease the pins of the connecting link before inserting them into the chain, as well as greasing the seals.
Around 36:45, when you're greasing the master link, the grease should go on before the outside rings as well as after, because the point of the seals is to prevent contaminants from entering the area between the pin and the shell, and because the lubricant protects the rings bearing against both the plates and the bearings. Furthermore some of that grease should be on the pin before you put it in. Essentially, there should be grease on every surface of the rings, the inner sides of the plates, and the pins BEFORE you assemble them.
Thank you, for all the videos 📹. I always com back here for information 😊
Youre a Badass!
My PBR Tool its a Dewalt grinder.
Heh! That will work too! I've used it myself before.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Just did the chain and sprockets on my Gen 1, could I have figured it out using the shop manual, sure, but why not follow along another great video by Tim! Thanks Brother!
35:12 the lube should be pushed thu the tube of the link as well and both sides of the O- rings. That is what the factory did.
Also no need to open the pliers so far , the tip of the pin is high enough to snap the clip into place . Great vids
Never could get the master link spring clip in place with two different pairs of needle nose pliers. Pushing down with a flat screwdriver instead worked in under 30 seconds.
Just having a re look at your "how to" for my KLR.
I still check your site first, before getting the spanners out.
Regards from S Africa.
Clive
P. S. Belated wishes for 2019.
Ride with care.
Thanks Clive! I appreciate the comment.
I was just thinking, man Tim’s bike is always so clean, and then he pulled off the front sprocket cover and it was full of crud, YES!!! Lol
I clean what I can, but there''s always crud somewhere! :)
Thanks for watching.
Really appreciate all your videos that I have seen. 2015 KLR that I am performing winter work. Ordered the fork brace and the fender - excellent video. Changing to 16 tooth front sprocket for the very reasons you mentioned on the road test. Keep it up!!!
Scott Hall - Thanks for the comments Scott. Best of luck with your Winter project. Thanks for watching.
Very grateful for your videos.
Thank you!! changed my sprockets and chains today. Your video was a big help.
Glad it helped, Thanks for the comment.
Thanks, still relevant.
One minor thing I would have put that lube inside the holes in the links and insured there was lube surrounding the pins . The O rings keep that lube inside those passages with the pins .
Wear occurs between the pin and inside those sleeves as well as the rollers . where do you think the factory prelubed those links ?
You think they just sprayed it with chain wax ?
No there should be lube protecting the pins inside each sleeve . And retained by the X ring / O rings .
You have only added a little lube to either side of the plates the way you have done it.
Great video other wise .
Spring is coming I'll be digging into all this....
You are good. Thanks for all the valuable material Tim.
Thanks for this video...and the tip with the clamp! this was a big help!
Well, done and explained I did mine save some 💰 Tnx
Great video, i just bought a used klr and am going to replace chain /sprockets! ! Thanks for being thorough! !!
It's a good idea to remove the 12mm chain adjuster bolts out completely and clean it and lube it while your in that deep.
The bolt can rust in side the swing arm ..... the last thing anyone needs is a rusty bolt in the swing arm ..... Hard place to work after the bolt snaps off . because it seized.
Well done video indeed. Thanks Tim! I almost feel like I could do this on my own!
These videos are spot on !! New subscriber .
Hey Tim, Outstanding videos. Thank you for making these. Cheers
Adrian Merrall - Thanks for the comments and for watching.
thank you so much!! very easy to follow
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Love your videos! Newbie bike owner wondering if you would do a video for simply adjusting the chain
Remove the slack adjuster bolts clean and lube both of them. Prevent rust build up on them inside the swing arm where you cannot see them.
Remove / Clean / Lube / put them back.
No videos cover it . But there's a repair kit if you Let them seize in place !
thank you very much, very clear all the info! one question, why you changed the front sprocket one tooth more? have a great day
Great video! I followed along while I did my drivetrain replacement today. When I torqued the nut holding the front/drive sprocket in place, there was enough room between the sprocket and nut that the lock washer could move about 2mm in and out. Is this okay? I did reuse the OEM nut.
I have already bought the 16 tooth, so I will be waiting for your review on the differences.
rlove2bike - If you haven't seen it yet, here's the link ua-cam.com/video/yrFp-1zFdk0/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Safety Tim @7:05 I guess i've been doing it all wrong for all these years.
I don't know anything. But looking at things I think the 'X" rings have more surface contact then the normal type. Two points of contact, instead of one.
Does the original sprocket have a washer between the motor and the sprocket?
Another good video!
Lube the pins so there's lube inside the links where the pivot motion and pressure is.
Hey tim you totally farted at 3:14 dont lie tim come on now 😂
Good catch! Lol. The smile afterward gives it away.
I HAVE TO REVERSE THE CLIP ON MY MASTER-LINK, BECAUSE I COMPETE IN COMPETITIONS WHERE WE RUN OUR BIKES IN THE REVERSE GEAR
One trick is to STOP do not completely remove the old chain..... Let it rest out of the way .
Replace the sprocket .
Then when your ready roll the old chain back around the front sprocket attach the new chain to the old one with master link , then roll it around pulling the new chain in .
Some Bikes it's a pain trying to feed the new chain into place .
Use this trick to save aggrevation.
That did not look like an impact socket. You mentioned that a screwdriver can shatter is used as a chisel and the same is true for standard sockets used on impact guns. Much better and safer to buy impact sockets.
Uh, it's the shiny kind :) Busted! You are absolutely correct LT. I have since purchased a set of SAE and Metric impact sockets and extensions.
@@Tim2Wheels Tim, is replacing the washer necessary with the new EM prevailing nut?
@@alexmendoza6113 - The EM Prevailing nut acts like a lock nut, so the washer that is bent over to lock the OEM nut is not needed. Plus the EM nut can be re-used.
Hey Tim. I have a 2014 klr650 New Edition. I have done just about every mod you have done, and some you may not have done.. ive done this one, raised my suspension, fork upgrades, lowered foot pegs, replaced pegs and shift lever, risers, throttle lock, Delkevic exhaust, Uni air filter....
But I want to do the doohickey mod. I bought the Eagle Mike kit with tools.. but I have never opened up an engine.. ive always done simple maintenance, but I'm hesitant to get in to the engine. Have you done the doohicky mod, and what pointers could you give me? Ive watched every UA-cam video on it, and I understand what to do, but I'm really nervous about actually doing it.....
Re the chain slack adjustment at the end of the video: my 2012 KLR manual says the min-max deflection is from 35 to 45mm, or 1.4 to 1.8 inches. You're at 25 to 40mm... How come?
Also, your taped-on gauge confuses me a bit - shouldn't you just mark 25 to 40 mm ABOVE the lower reference mark, in other words why do you also measure downward equally and put the two 25 and 40mm marks below the center reference on the tape? The chain sags (and you can just tug it down to get it to its absolute lower stretch limit) and all you need to do is push upwards to measure the deflection and ensure it is between the two spec limits. Seems like you're adjusting it for half the deflection it needs.
You didnt have to reuse that washer with the torque prevailing nut right?
Correct. The washer is not really needed.
Super!❤️👍🏻
Instead of getting a PBR or other chain tool, couldn't you just use an angle grinder to cut the chain since you aren't going to use it again, especially since you're switching to a master link style connection?
Catman - Yes you certainly could. As with all jobs, there are several ways of doing things. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
True, but much better to use a riveted repair link. OTOH, an old master link is great to use to feed in the new chain. Tim was replacing the sprockets also so the technique isn’t as meaningful in this case, but if you are replacing only the chain, it works slick to connect the new to the old with a master link and then pull the new chain around the sprockets as you remove the old chain.
my gen 1 wheel alignment marks suck! they are nowhere to be seen on the right side of the bike:( I'm so envious of your marks
Tim, Evidently you have an air comperssor, In 10 seconds with an air or an electric angle grinder that chain is off!. It's not like your going to reuse that chain again. So why buy or need a fancy BS tool that takes all that time to screw with?.. Unless your advertising and gettting a kickback and a free chain breaker.. A free Eagle nut too? The good old way popping off chains still works for me after 55 years..
Curious how many miles were on the stock sprockets when you removed them. Also, thanks again for another great video. Now I know what I'm getting next. Could you put links to products you use in the description?
Have you done a video on the countr shaft seal? I cant get my collar off
can you explain what you mean by "install the sprocket with the ToothID markings facing forward? I am going to give this is a go this weekend and your videos are excellent. Thanks for making them.
Hi Cliff, Most drive sprockets will have a tooth number stamped on the sprocket. That side should be installed facing outward. There is a bit of an offset to the drive sprockets, so there is a right and wrong way to install.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your project.
So I can't get the torque wrench to break over 60. Anything more than that and the sprocket and engine turns. I'm afraid I'm going to break something. Any suggestions?
I'm sorry I wasn't very specific. I'm reassembling the front sprocket with a prevailing torque nut and anything over 60ft lbs turns the engine backwards.
brentagade - I put the bike in 1st gear and put a clamp on the rear brake (or you could have someone step on it for you). As you see in the video, that was enough to hold the sprocket for torque.
Thanks for replying. I had my brakes taken apart, as I was replacing tires, brakes, chain, and sprockets all in one shot. But 1st gear did help. I had it in an upper gear. Once I dropped it to 1st, that seemed to make a big difference. I'm sure the brakes would've helped too. I guess I missed that part originally.
Anyway, I've been up and running and the 16 tooth is great. I'm glad I went that route.
Thanks so much for your clear and detailed videos!!
27:23 Cush drive ... your in that deep why not remove and clean it .
wipe the pockets out and a light coat of silicone spray on the rubber wipe it clean then drop it back in and also clean the tabs or lugs . Then your clean and the rubber will last even longer with the dirt and debris out of the cush.
Your already there do the extra two minute clean up.
Hi Tim! are you retired from UA-cam or just taking a time off?
Expose the grooves in the pins so the clip can slip on.
excellent video. Quick question: Did you purchase the kit for the sprockets and chain? Did this primary drive chain + sprocket kit come with the master link? I noticed they are sold separately and couldn't find a clear answer. Thanks!
Jesse Fretwell - I purchased my components seperately because I already had the 16 tooth drive srocket. The chain did come with one master link, but I purchased a 2nd one for my tool kit. It's always wise to have at least one spare.
ah I've gotcha. Thank you for the info and prompt reply. Thanks again for the helpful videos.
Did you grind the rivet head before breaking the chain? I just tried breaking my KLR chain with a Motion Pro breaker and the extractor pin shattered. Looks like I'll have to get another extractor pin.
YoyoBandalore - No, I did not grind it first. I just pressed it out as shown on video.
I ground off the rivet head and finally got the chain off. I've got the counter sprocket nut and washer off, but the counter sprocket will NOT budge. Any helpful hints on getting a stubborn counter sprocket off? I've soaked it in WD-40 hoping that will help, but no luck so far.
YoyoBandalore - If your sprocket has two threaded holes in it, you can use two bolts to drive through and press the sprocket off. But the best option is to use a gear puller to remove it. If you don't have a gear puller, you can rent them from your local auto parts store.
Well, after 2 days of soaking the counter sprocket with WD-40, lots of wiggling and multiple attempts using a small gear puller the sprocket FINALLY broke loose. Man, it was really stuck on there. Thank you for your helpful comments. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the remainder of tasks go as easy as they did in your video. :)
Funny how the *only* part of this that I'm having trouble with is getting the fucking wheel back on, and I'll and behold, it's the one party of the fucking process that you didn't go into excruciating, mind-numbing detail about!
Have you ever tried a 14 tooth front sprocket or have a video on it ?, I do a lot of slow riding in unknown type of trails and it really has me riding the clutch a lot, so thinking lowering the gearing, what do you think? thanks again,,,
Hi Paul,
No, I personally have not tried a 14T drive gear. I have heard that it's great for "crawling" around off-road. It gives the KLR even better low end and makes it easier to pop wheelies too. You will pay for it on the highway though.
@@Tim2Wheels In the Philippines some 10 years ago I could have used a 14 tooth.
It was the only time in my life I’ve ever had my fuel tank boiling like a kettle. I was doubling with my gf up a fairly steep hill. I didn’t know fuel could boil before that point. The cap was whistling like a kettle. Was worried so left it alone till it cooled.
Hi Tim
What brand of sprocket did you use?
Thanks
wdmd11 - The chain and both sprockets were Primary Drive brand. There are several good brands to choose from, Primary Drive product are good quality at a fair price.
how do you properly lubricant a new chain??
I don't have any special info for new chains. All new chains I have purchased were lubricated from the factory and sealed in a bag. I install them and then maintain/lubricate normally.
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Hey guy, what about the washer that came with the sprocket? Seeing as the aftermarket does not have the rubber around it. Won't it be too close?
It fit my bike with good alignment. The off-set must have compensated for that. If you have concerns, I would recommend you talk with the manufacturer of the sprocket you choose to be sure.
Thanks for the question.
I've heard the rule of thumb on chain tension is having it to where the chain just barely touches the plastic chain guide.
21:26 REMOVE COTTER PIN ..... NOT KEY .. IF YOUR DOWN UNDER IT'S CALLED A SPLITTER .
What mileage did you change these at
When I changed these, the bike had just under 20,000 miles (19,930) on it. I don't know if the previous owner had ever changed them. Of course, the mileage you get out of a set will depend on how and where you ride as well as how you maintain your chain.
@@Tim2Wheels ok thanks, did you train train start to become uneven when accelerating and what not. Perhaps even bumpy? I'm assuming these are signs of the drivetrain, is that accurate?
Wuss .... no one wants to shorten a chain . So the video should state all OEM parts .