What They're Not Telling You About Sandblasting - Watch Now!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- In this video, we are going to show you what sandblasting can do to your car restoration project. These results will surprise you.
Sandblasting can be a great way to strip your car but there are somethings to be aware of. These thing can affect the finale outcome of your restoration. By starting with a strong foundation you will get the very best outcome from your metal finishing and bodywork.
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I love the way Hans reacts to all of this. You don’t see many people nowadays that would admit that they don’t know everything about their job
I agree Hans was a great sport about it
Hans learned and all it does is make him better at his job. Knowledge is king!!
This was good video at explaining the pros and cons and possible outcome of blasting body panels.
That is how intelligent people see the world and their place in it
Awesome information man, you and Mike are a great team!!
Thank you!!
Why do you not recommend to introduce grease/wax remover to a blasted area? Thanks
Because it’s a rough pourus surface you don’t want anything getting pushed into those small craters. It will cause failures. Even ppg recommends you epoxy directly after blasting.
I recently had a 1973 ford f350 sandblasted. The guy used coal slag at 40 psi and kept his distance. I was very pleased with the results. I'm presently dealing with two cars that have a great deal of blasting damage from a different blaster. It is absolutely not a job for a person whos not experienced.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I did the same on my 30 model A body, very low pressure is the key.
Wow I thought I new a lot about the cons of sand blasting but the tape was the most informative thing I have seen on the tube full stop. Can't thank you enough for this. The time and effort you must have put into this before the day of blasting. The cost to you for theses videos you do is priceless for us. Sylvester Customs are the bench mark in auto restoration. Thanks again Travis
Dang!!! …. Thank you very much Paul 🙌🏻
It is high air pressure that warps panels. It takes the heat of welding to warp a panel and thats way hotter than 250 degrees. If you blast at a lower PSI, the panels turn out perfect. I seriously doubt that theres micro pinging happening. High PSI air/media on sheet metal is like running it through a english wheel.
Low air pressure will 100% still stretch a panel if the media is a abrasive I have tested this theory many different ways many different blasters
I think experienced sandblasters should watch this, pause, rewind and watch certain parts again, plus new hires, trainees , should watch and pass a written test and verbal review before ever putting on a suit or touching a hose nozzle.
It is failure to do specialized work correctly without the proper training first! Great demo! I know Hans will think about this for years. DK. ASE Master retired
Thank you Dean!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS You did a fine job leaving nothing behind!
I really appreciate how thoughtful you are, Travis. Understanding nuance in any high level craft takes a lot of critical self reflection. Many people let ego drive their perceptions and thus perpetuate myths or plateau.
Thank you!! 👊🏻
It was actually very noble of Hans to do the test knowing it could be incriminating to his business. I applaud him for pushing himself past his safety zone to better understand the damages of what blasting can do. Knowledge is power.
I couldn’t agree more
Your compressor pressure is pulsating that's your problem. You need consistency in pressure, media, distance from surface and constant nozzle movement.
We know that’s an issue, but even after we fixed it, it doesn’t matter anything abrasive enough to put the surface of the sheet metal is in fact, stretching the metal
Couldn't watch 39 minutes of a guy shewing gum. I love all your videos but not this one
🤣🤣
I can't believe in the USA you still use sand and class for sandblasting in Australia it was band more than a decade ago because it of silicosis. We mainly use garnet or metal grit
Sand can only legally be done of you use proper engineering and technique.
Hes blasting at to direct of an angle. Blasters need to learn about impingement angle. I fill in the holes on the underside of bonnets and boots with 2 layers of blast tape so I can blast the frame to stop hitting the inner skin. The demo with the tape was a good way to demonstrate how easy it is to damage. Use the blaster to on a more level angle of about 15° or less so the media is used to basically sand it or wear it away rather than smashing it from above. You'll end up with a not so aggressive profile too. All in all good demonstration and information. Garnet and aluminium oxide works best to remove paint and rust in my opinion.
👍🏻👍🏻
Can you explain more about impingement angle? Im not a blaster but thats a really interesting concept that l’ve never heard of before
@Buddyyouwantoutside impingement angle is the degree of angle the blast nozzle is aimed at the job and media will hit it. The closer to 90° the more aggressive the blasting will be and the peeningeffect will happen. The lower the angle it won't be as aggressive but it abrades it away so to speak like sanding. It's more gentle and takes a little longer. I believe the in my experience that the air flowing over the job keeps it a bit cooler too. Hope that explains it a bit
When you say blast tape, what brand and type of tape do you use?
I’ve done quite a few cars wet with medium crushed glass for body shops, never dry though as it heats up the metal too much. If the panels aren’t on the vehicle you have to be extremely careful because there’s isn’t any structure to them and can easily cause warpage. Also I generally won’t blast the interior of panels at all, too much risk. With the proper stand off and angle wet you shouldn’t have any issues. I’ve never had any complaints from any of the body shops that I’ve done work for 🤷♂️. Great video‼️
Thanks! Yep it’s all in what the customer wants or expects. When it comes to at least 95+% of Bodyshop’s they don’t look at this from the perspective of a metal finisher or coach builders aspect that’s why you don’t hear about these issues. The point I wanted to make in the video was techniques matter and to some any blasting regardless of wet or dry is warping if it’s pitting the metal.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I thought it was great❗️ People have a notion as well that just because it’s done wet that it won’t cause warpage. I always correct people on that when I hear it. Of course if an inexperienced operator without proper technique is blasting you can 100% warp the living hell out of those panels‼️
Man....can you beat around the bush er what ?
Pretty simple don’t watch it then.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS your CORRECT !!!!!
I DIDNT !!
He also got the world famous DON'T ...recommend this channel award !!
@@SeymourBalz 🤣🤘🏻👍🏻🙌🏻👌🏻
Tom, You know you shouldn't make comments after having too many adult beverages, right!
Explaining maybe required to set the reason for the video. Secondly, he had a guest that sandblast for a living and may ask and be asked questions. Then to prove a point, they show sanding on with a flat block on metal dye (Dykem, magic marker) something you would never do and then do. Then discuss the differences in what the say using common sense, IF temp gun, so other's starting out or doing this for a long time may learn something new.
I was not looking, but I didn't know you where listed as the "Worlds Best Body Tech"!
Sorry, I am sure no one will question your abilities, status and power of knowledge again. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78. (Say, did you you ever do body work or paint a car yet?) Curious!
@@deankay4434 get serious .
The dude talk talk talk..don't say squat..
You fell for his trying to get more up time on his videos .
Great video. I used to blast yrs ago and was using the coal product. I wasn't blasting many body parts but everything is true what you said. Had the light go out while blasting and watch the sparks fly.
🤣🤣
I chemical dip all of mine its more expensive but it eliminates all danger of damage and absolutely removes everything including any rust. Makes the build a awesome foundation for any metal work and paint . Sand blasting gets inside places that sometimes cant be removed . Makes a huge mess. Chemical dipping is the safest and most effective restoration.
Preach on!!! I agree with this 100% that’s how we do it now
This is one of the most informative videos I have ever seen on sandblasting. I have always wanted to do a whole car sand blast with my 1980 camaro but I have heard that after sandblasting the grit gets stuck in all the crevices and then after painting it acts like sandpaper and grinds into the meal exposing raw metal to the elements and then starts rusting. Is this true? What are the issues with a whole car sandblast? I wished I lived in southern California.
Did you watch the whole video? It stretches the metal!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Excellent reply. Too funny.
I blast professionaly for 12 years.. we use soda on open areas...and very fine glass on car bodys...fine as baby powder...we have done many mopar drag cars with very thin bodys...with very good results..
That’s the difference between 90% of most and experience. 👍🏻 we need more blasters like you
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I'm not afraid to admit....I have fckd some shit up early on...but I have learned from those mistakes
@@jimjim753 absolutely!! We all do that’s how we learn 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video but please stop calling it sandblasting. It’s media blasting which can be many different types including: sand, glass, soda, plastic, coal slag, and others. Your spot on by saying it’s the peening effect that warps the metal. More so than any heat induced. Heck a black car on a hot sunny day can see panel temps get up to 200°. Any media that is harder than the base metal can and usually does cause warpage. I prefer plastic media blasting myself mainly because I have no one near that can acid dip, it’s cost prohibitive and I am set up to do PBM myself. It’s gentle enough I have done large low crown panels and it has left the acid etched USS logo that was on the steel before it was stamped. But it doesn’t touch rust or leave a tooth for epoxy. Most of the cars I blast are paint jobs that I’m doing myself and I have never found that it has warped a panel, yet….
You get the idea call it what you want. Yep sunny days get panel temps of 200 degrees but they also get heated evenly and cool evenly expansion and contraction vary drastically when performed unevenly across a panel. Plastic media is what I used looong ago and yes that’s the hot ticket! 👍🏻👍🏻
When the video starts you think that Hans will be the one doing the teaching... bait and switch lol.
🤣🤣🤣
Thank you, people said I was crazy when I said this. Black racing stripes on a hood will show thru the next paint job at certain temperatures....
Yup I could imagine
If your doing a test, how about a real comparison to other media. Plastic media leaves the same finish that the original part started out as, no profile to the metal. Also will remove powdercoating. Using a much lower pressure at the nozzel, We used to get about 1 sq ft of paint removal per minute using plastic at 30 psi, 1/2 inch nozzel, 800 cfm compressor. Lot of volume, no pressure.
I've just started a blasting bisness and wow you opened my eyes ,im in Oz and would love to go to the States and learn my craft
Glad to have showed you. If your ever in the states hit us up
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ok can we have other contact not on net so I can do this
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS bro invite me??
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS how can I give you my number here in oz ,???
Just like everyone else has said, fantastic information! I was super surprised that even stripping and etch blasting for the epoxy was enough to warp the panel to that extent! Cheers mate 👍
Thank you!
It's not heat its air pressure and the abrasive, i blast and have never felt the panel hot as the air is cooling do fast, i had a bonnet wrecked just with high air pressure by the time i told the man to stop it was to late , 250cfm at 150psi through a 1/2 inch nozzle and it bends steel
Actually it’s everything heat is included I assure you I’ll be breaking it down even more in future videos. When I refer to mechanically stripping it’s stripper disks and Eastwood sct or harbor freight model it will not remove material. But regardless anything abrasive is warping you just aren’t looking at it close enough as a metal finisher would.
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS your high spots are called profile , and it depends on grit, it's for adhesion, using super fine media gives no profile
@@bigears4014 never mind you aren’t understanding. I’m not going to argue with you lol
Wow I can't believe he allowed you to make this video. Must be a pretty stand up guy.
Very stand up guy that’s why we use HD Powdercoat 👍🏻
I always thought this warping controversy was all BS... Until I spot sandblasted the underside of mustang roof after spending a lot of time getting it straight and it made a mess.
Yup that’s exactly why we wanted to show it. 👌🏻
it all depends on the IDIOT doing the job ? = sand blasting is fantastic and used in many areas - antique furniture restoration = but i prefer the paint stripper method paint on scrape off ! good luck and take care !
Well yeah ….. we’re talking specifics of sheet metal
Mate that "low isn't a low it's a serface that's not got a profile to a serface that has" absolutely a crap test I know you mentioned the blaster was playing up but to me a unstable stream of media is like useing a sledge hammer and a toffy hammer I'm surprised it's not come out looking like a bag of apples with copper slag as a media and a blaster running like that. Once again bad information against blasting as an industry for a bad operator ("best blaster in your opinion") I wouldn't let him blast anything untill he sorts his blaster out!
Blasting done right won't warp a panel I can 100% guarantee this. Totally a waste of time!
You are a blaster so it’s obvious why you don’t like the video and no you absolutely can not guarantee anything. It’s not my fault you don’t understand how metal moves and affects the end result.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS it's hard to see the so call best blaster doesn't even know the basics of setting the pot up. I can safely say I could get you a profile for epoxy without warping. Any blaster that's used soda or glass will say the exact same thing if your pockets are deep enough a skilled guy can 100% guarantee no warping. I know for a fact when you pull the tape off the difference your feeling is profile in the steel. I wouldn't even go close to sheet metal with copper slag it's like trying to polish(buff) with 40 grit sand paper with a brick as a block. Its totally using 1 end of the sacle and saying this is the only way.... when infact psi media pitch cfm etc all play a massive part poor operators kill this industry and folk like you reinforcing this
A couple of guy's endorsing the use of WET blasting ...... NO heat and warping issues then...
Then you didn’t watch the video lol
I media blasted the inside of a hood once. Ended up with a prefect transfer of the structure onto the outer skin. 100% ruined. Good lesson though, lol.
Yep I think we’ve all done that at some point and regretted it 🤣
Took my car in for repair. Hood had to be repainted. My windshield looks like a ton of paint overspray. Lots was removed but not all. A person said the windshield looks sandblasted. Does this mean my windshield was effected by the blasting on the hood at the shop? Do they not cover the windshield properly? Is the hood usually removed prior to repair n paint?
If it was blasted then yeah likely the got your window too.
sir just started watching this channel ,Awesome tutorials Travis thank you for your humble approach at teaching your skills and attension to detail, knowledge your sharing.Im Getting invaluable direction from Slyvester Customs to fix my 1981 XD Ford Falcon thankyou so much ,watching your videos from Begining, with pen and paper love the channel,learning so much.
That’s awesome thank you!!!
I tried watching this video again and was trying to hear what material and grit was used for the test?
He did blast the painted area and wanted to know if was going to switch to a different media etc.
It seemed like he had no issues with the aluminum oxide. Would that be a choice for removing paint with primer with occasional surface rust?
Anything abrasive enough to pit metal can stretch it.
Bro lol guys cooked there using industrial size hose and blasters and 90 psi probably I have a smaller pot with a way way smaller hose and different tips to make sand even thinner and less rough it can be adjusted really low and I guarantee it wouldn't cause damage it would take time but it can be done
And I guarantee you’re wrong, but OK whatever you wanna believe
I used the Eastwood svt. On my hood, and got low areas.the rest of hood I used paint stripper. Has anyone having problems with svt. Heating metal and causing this problem? Did I use svt wrong?
You need to move it around at a good pace so you don’t create heat. If you go too slow and long in one area you are heat shrinking.
Great, detailed tutorial as usual. Im understanding the base metal theory but if I build a car here in Indiana with high summer humidity for a customer in a different climate, is it possible to prevent any phantom wave or is physics gonna naturally work against the materials regardless? I install a lot of fiberglass kits on classic Mustangs and I know first hand how much fiberglass moves but can it be prevented with metal? Also, do you still 80 grit bare metal after blasting with coal slag or is it enough tooth to go right to VP2050? Thanks
If you are doing it in a temperature controlled room it helps but won’t guarantee the finish unless you are metal finishing. Plenty of tooth with blasting.
Im a little behind on your videos, this was a lot of good information. Thanks for putting this together and sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Sandblaster pulsating was the problem. Also when sandblasting you need to blast at an angle. This is why wet blasting is better. The water keeps the metal cool thus preventing warpage. Crushed glass is also the best medium not beach sand.
No you are wrong you obviously didn’t watch the whole video. Wet blasting still warped the panel. If you think otherwise you aren’t educated enough on the subject.
The way they clean extremely expensive turbo charge blades on commercial marine engines is walnut. That goes bare back bone at it. No issues.
How thin are those blades if it’s thicker metal it’s irrelevant to this demonstration.
Process control is key.
I heard "tooth" quite a few times and thought I'd see anchor profile, surface roughness, and other controls. Nope...nothing
Also, I saw the temp gun and thought ok...but while sanding never saw a temp gun.
While I was impressed with level of thought put into getting quality results, I was a little disappointed in the identification of a special process and how/why it should be controled.
You can call it what you want I don’t care lol. Me black sanding is not creating heat
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Friction and heat have no relationship? What has the world come to these days?
@@ImNotHereToArgueFacts if I am block sanding by hand that is not creating enough heat to move any metal. Especially when I am grazing over it lightly with 220 grit to show the warpage. We specifically talked about how you can use different abrasives while blasting and I even explain in the video how that is shot peening the sheet metal. The bigger the particle, the more that it will stretch it’s that simple. We even talk about how the pressure, angle, distance all play a part. When I use the word tooth, that is because I am trying to keep the metal in a mirror condition zero warpage and have a tooth that epoxy can stick to.
I use my old stuff out blast cabinet to hit my welded areas before epoxy also
👍🏻👍🏻
Great video and great explanation. Been trying to find something like this for a while. I have been trying to explain it to people a lot lately.
Glad it helped!
Travis you never cease to amaze me . Your dedication to being 100% knowledgeable in every aspect of quality repair techniques is second to none thank you for sharing all your knowledge
Thank you mike
Best channel on UA-cam!
I appreciate the kind words!!
When i blasted back in the day i could do a whole car with no warpage but it took me two cars to learn how to do it with no damage.
Luckily the damage after blasting revealed that the panels should be replaced installed of repaired.
The technique for blasting without damage is low pressure distance and angle of attack.
Most people just go at it.
Very good video.
The warpage we are referring to you cannot feel or see unless you were to block it with a hard block but any blasting that is abrasive is warping. Those techniques help but it’s still warping to a small degree
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I'm not sure what the body guys were doing.
Maybe they sprayed poly or something to build it and block it.
My job was blasting, cleaning and DP 90 all day long ,lol.
Mostly parts.
This was early 90's
Never would have thought about it, because it never showed in final cars.
Interesting 🤔
Heat has nothing to do with warping, more heat is just the result of more intense peening.
Yeah well aware lol the amount of peening is what causes the warp hense exactly that the video covers
So what happend if you sand blast both side of the fender or a piece of sheet metal ?
Then it’s way more stretched.
So you are blowing off the freshly blasted steel (heavy cleaning) without solvents or sanding? Just blast then prime epoxy? No other surface prep?
Correct that’s the cleanest it’s going to be.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS much appreciated
Is it okay where the jams are? Don't blast doors, hood, trunk, roof?
Correct.
I hate to bother you for another question but in your guesstimation how many pounds of media needed to strip an 3:08 3:10 average muscle car floor (70 camaro) and firewall, and trunk question mark
Sorry my phone
No idea I have people come and do the blasting.
I haven't done any sheet metal, but I have a lot of experience with industrial blasting and coating. My first thoughts were how either walnut or corn cob blast media would work. I'd be interested in trying some out.
They work good just doesn’t eliminate rust is all. There’s pros and cans with different situations.
I also have an industrial soda blaster that I've used on a few fenders here and there. It works great, but it's messy and a littlebit slower than abrasives. I bet it would be fantastic for your application, as I originally got it work working on paper-thin aircraft sheetmetal.
Brilliant demo. Gotta try the heat gun on my next round of wet blasting.
Heat def has a part in it but mostly the shot peening of particles is the biggest issue 👍🏻 thx for watching
Fascinating video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!!
Two words: Soda Blaster. I just did my oak kitchen cabinets with a soda blaster and it worked great and did not harm the wood at all. I know it is more expensive and a bit messier, but i fyou are concerned about damaging the substrate... I am surprised they did not even mention this option.
We didn’t cover as we mentioned that anything abrasive will warp panels and any other blasting. That is not abrasive is a lot safer however, soda blasting does not remove rust.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Right but you weren't talking about removing rust. Soda blasting can remove some light surface rust, and anything more than that on a thin body panel is going to require more work regardless. I am just suggesting that soda blasting is a much safer alternative for what you were demonstrating.
I don't recall the conclusion of your video, were you suggesting chemical striping? That is not a viable option for some so for those folks soda blasting could be a viable alternative.
“Back in the day” when I was doing frame up VW’s, I would have the pans dipped and bodies were plastic media or walnut blasted, never warping a panel.
Yeah, it cost slightly more up front but I didn’t have to shrink panels
😉
Who would sandblast the centres of body panels anyway?
Damn near everybody that I see doing Blasting. It’s a demo for a reason
I have a dustless unit I use crushed glass
On older cars 19 gauge the thick metal
On some cars newer stuff you have to be careful
I just did a 78 Elcamino
I polish the metal after and I check my metal with a block before priming
I don’t get warping
Crushed bottle glass shatters when it hits the surface I find the priming and blocking stage my metal stays straight
I own my unit it’s on a trailer with sulair 185 diesel compressor
You have to have the right setup doing it myself
I love the results I get
Distance and keeping moving is important
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Some people wreck their car by machine stripping deep gouges with course paper , and wire wheels. Acid dipping also removes metal if left to long , a combination of everything is best
What about wet blasting like dustlessblasting ??
In the video I state that any media that puts the metal regardless of wet or dry it is stretching the metal and warping it.
Well I'm worried about I will find on the panels of my mustang once I start working on it. Had it wet blasted 2 years ago and stored it in the garage 2 years ago. -Blk66ponyresto
great video, well explained as usual ..
Cheers
Thank you!
Great video - intelligent presentation. I have for years been cautioning people re blasting. And also staying away from the term "sand blasting" -- NOBODY should be using sand and if they are - tell them to FU-K OFF and not touch your vehicle etc. Abrasive blasting (HA - NOT with sand) can have its place on SOME areas - bur be CAREFUL where you use it - and yes - there are good abrasive blasters and FU-KWITS that should not be let near your car etc. Me - I prefer dipping a shell, and sometimes, spot abrasive blasting - but ONLY on areas that I have no other option. 'Horses for courses' - sometimes. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Dipping is also what we prefer and you are 100% correct
Another great video Boss, Thanks Again.
Thank you!
WOW !!!!!!!
Starblast is not coal slag. It's a mined mineral that it mined in north Florida. Starblast is very similar to sand but has a lower silica content so it's safer for the operator.
How would you prep a hood that was already blasted years ago and has accumulated some oils and contaminants?
Degrease and DA?
Ironically we filmed a video on this last night it will be out next Friday
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS perfect cause I purchased a car that was blast and crappy epoxy primer to remove and I need to know what procedure and supplies I need. I’m sure you get jobs in all stages and conditions to start with.
Looking forward to seeing the video. Thanks for the reply. Hope I receive notification as I am a subscriber.
@@jimdrechsel3611 it definitely should. Thanks for watching!!
So how did they strip cars back in the 50s 60s
Aircraft strippers etc. you have to remember back then. Chemicals were a lot more potent than they are now.
Would love to do a Laser Cleaning collaboration!
Email me sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com we would love to
Fine crushed glass is recommended also.
It still warps the panel
Interesting , great video
Glad you enjoyed it
By far best video about this problem on youtube period!!i 23 years ago in our shop we had decently preserved Opel that was about 50 years old at that moment.Car was sent to sand blaster who was and probably still is ignorant fool.It is pointless to say that he destroyed car.I spend days traying to strait damn thing,hammer and dolly ,torch and water,spotter...all in vein!It took about 90 kg all sort of material to make him look nice.And it was round little car "OLIMPIA".AFTER THAT NEVER AGAIN!If it is necessery only inner structure,door yambs....and it is sprayed with rattle can and i'm standing 6 feet behind sandblaster watching every his move like a hawk(ready to kill him).Paint stripper+light sanding with palm random orbital sander will do job just fine.I saw a perfect hood from 70's Cadillac at my colleague shop that was stripped with dry ice and they warped it,how i don't know?
Thank you! Dry ice too wow. We haven’t used it yet
What would be the best way to strip a vehicle that’s been sitting out in the elements? Surface rust, minor pitting, old paint, etc? Bottom of floor pan, quarters?
I’m thinking of putting the car on a rotisserie having it sandblasted then coating with epoxy primer.
Seems like sandblasting is the way to go. Just need to go to someone who knows what they are doing? 🤷♂️
We blast Interior floor pans, and we strip everything on the exterior with a stripper disc
Everybody claims to be a professional, but anything that will leave a profile is stretching the metal
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks bro. When you say stripper disc are you referring to a flap disc? Or those black abrasive wheels? If so what grit?
@@ChristopherL0rtiz they come in many different colors. It is not a flap disc the way they look is like a hard plastic sponge just google strip disc.
Do\ these\ findings\ also\ apply\ to\ soda\ blasting-_?
No it’s not abrasive enough to leave a profile
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
use sandpaper after
soda. ?
mix a little garnet and soda (my next test)
this was a well put together video. i work for a company where we sandblast on a mobile commercial scale where we blast transport truck frames, trailers tri axle, and once in awhile we will sandblast some aluminum stuff.
Thank you!
Gotta say I'm quite happy that none of the blasters wanted to touch my vintage Austin van. All 18ga. So I paid a fortune to have it chemically stripped. Came out squeaky clean thru out.
Awesome!!
Acid dipped the cab and bed of my 46 Chevy Truck in 1984 and still own it. Best decision ever.
Glad to hear it!!
Thanks for how in-depth you guys take this discussion. I used to think paint remover (nasty stuff) followed by hand sanding then applying primer (to stop corrosion) panel by panel was the best way, but you've given me a lot to consider. I appreciate it!
Our pleasure!
That's why you go dustless when blasting car parts (using water, rust inhibitor and an air cooler to cool the metal as it's being cleaned. 👍
I strongly disagree already tested that also. Anything that shot peens the metal is stretching. Period.
You’d be shocked what the dustless wet blast does I’ve been painting cars my whole life
I’m 61 I love the dustless unit look up dustless blasting Huston Texas
wet sandblaster car no thanks. I only did that with 2 cars db800 and I will never do that again. dry is 100% better wet sandblaster helps nothing at all but sucks all over
As a metal shaper and panel beater i had no clue it was this bad and ive fixed alot of sandblast damage especially hoods its never fun .this is also kind of metal work 101 at the same time though you get shape in panels from stretch and shrink values relative to eachother when you understand that in depth your unstoppable
Couldn’t agree more. 👍🏻
My blaster does crushed glass he does the whole car dry and jambs just not face of any body panels because of warping I hand strip sct and 80 grit da then delfleet primer epoxy they say is the best . I have had cars with ghost waves hard to get out of metal so stretched .
That’s the best way nice job! Try DP90LV you will probly like it better than defleet. I know I do
Hi does wet blasting with glass beads do the same? Im about to blast my car ready for repaint. Cheers...
Anything abrasive enough to shot peen the metal will cause damage.
How thick would you recommend fiberglass filler to be on warped welded patches ?
I don’t recommend fiberglass filler at all on metal panels. I teach people to metal finish their welds to not need filler
so with all that being said I have a 68 mustang I was going to do now I don't think so. what would you recommend just old school sand on a sanding disc.
thanks
A stripper disc works best
The heat alone really surprised me . Great video Great way of explaining, and showing what will happen.
Thank you!
Dustless sandblasting
Still warps hate to break it to ya
I got a question...does acid dipping the body of a car take care of the surface rust that are in between panels that are spot welded?..if not what's the best way to take care of that problem?..I feel like I might as well drill out every spot weld and rebuild the whole car..is this necessary? Any advice is helpful..Thanks again😎
That’s not necessary honestly. Drilling them out will cause way more damage. Acid dipping gets everywhere only time it won’t get the pinch weld is if it’s really tight.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks again Travis!...have an awesome day!
Sand blast definitely causes damage to your car. I have worked in a restoration shop and worked on hundred of cars that have been sandblasted. The sandblasters say that they don’t cause damage because they are not body and paint guys, they just don’t know. Not only that they get dinged up because they are stacked, moved, handled, and stored in their shop for weeks to months they get all beat up there too. I had a 72 Camaro blasted that my dad bought off the showroom floor new. The body work should have been easy considering the car was all original and factory straight. When I got it back I had to put 10x the body work into it than expected.
Yep 100% agree!!!
I had a clown say he knew what he was doing ,, cost me three times the amount of work than it should have after he butchered it,,,,
Wet abrasive too
Wet will still warp
Sandblaster- no warpage
Me- you ever do bodywork before?
Exactly 🤣
This is very good. Why didn’t you cover plastic media blasting,using the correct particle size
We talk about it in this video specifically
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSI looked through the whole video you didn’t go to a plastic media blasting facility. I owned a blast cleaning business for 30 years I saw so many errors in the equipment and the incorrectly set pulsating blast stream caused by a blast pot differential pressure issue. I had 4 professional blast rooms dedicated to different media types. The correct plastic media military spec product and correct equipment doesn’t abrade the surface thus not causing the distortion you were showing. That’s why it is used on military aircraft instead of chemical stripping. Only down side is the media costs thousands of dollars a ton not hundreds Best wishes from. Australia
Thank you that was interesting. I learned something.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Hello, I’m wanting to use a Sand blaster hookup to my power washer to do the bottom of my cab and firewall on my square body. I don’t have easy access to a blaster in rural Iowa. So with that being said… bare metal and water = no bueno. What can I use afterwards to neutralize the flash rust before my epoxy!?
We have an older video call the least gruesome way to remove rust
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Ok thanks, I will check it out. I try to stay up on videos, but I must of missed it.
HoldTight Flash Rust Inhibitor
Would it be safe and effective to use an sct first and then long board with 36 grit or maybe 80 grit before epoxy or bodywork?
Absolutely that’s a great option in some cases that’s what we do. 80 grit is the roughest grit you’ll need.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Perfect. Thank you.
Great video. Thanks for making this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I would like to see you do the same test with a wet blaster
You are missing the point. The media if it leaves a profile is stretching regardless wet or dry. When it warped it only took 5 seconds from a distance with only 5 degrees of heat added. Anything that shot peens the metal stretches
Starblast media, enough said
Anything that will give a profile will do this fyi even fine crushed glass.