I just took the whole front off the motor THREE times based on the advice from other "mechanics" and some other videos, and I'm still off. Should've watched this video to begin with! Sheesh 🙄
Great video, I just had my cam installed and I’m having serious issues with idle, vacuum and misfiring. I’m TDC on cylinder 1 with the dot at 12pm but my keyway is closer to 1pm rather than 2pm. Would this suggest I’m off a tooth?
@@moparbymelton961 thanks, from the photo the builder sent it looks to be at 12 and cylinder 1 TDC. Maybe it moved or something, I’ll have to take the front cover off to verify. Popped a P0016 code, everything is pointing to the timing.
So I can’t confirm this but it seems there is a different mark on the phaser gear. One is definitely defined on the face looking at the block basically would be on the back of the gear when on the cam. That put my pin on the cam at 2oclock position and from what I just saw that pin looked at 12. I did bar it over like that fully assembled and was hitting resistance at the end of the strokes. You can slowly keep pressure and it will push past and then spin again but same deal it hits hard resistance at the end. I took the rockers off again as to shut the valves and did a leak down test to check if it bent any valves and I seem to have gotten extremely lucky and all reads well within range. However I’m definitely out of time if that pin in the cam is indicating the tdc position for the cam. Which thinking back to tear down that pin was at 12 tdc initially. Thx for the info though man it is stressful af doing timing but the more you do it the better you’ll get. I’m a pro at doing EJ Subaru engines but this is not a Subaru. Thx again
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience with the tube, question, how do you know #1 is at tdc on compression stroke vs exhaust stroke? Thank you again!
@@Mistfortune976 the cam gear has a mark on it. That is to be installed at 12:00 The crank turns 2 times per the cam once. The cam timing mark is to be installed at 12:00
Pull timing cover today and the crank sproketa is off one tooth, #8 cylinder has a dent from intake valve and obviously that valve is bent among others. I am gonna check the valves this weekend and reset the timing and button it up and let it ride assuming I get compression in #4,6 and 8 cylinders following timing reset! I appreciate you sir!
I find your rotating assembly to be fairly difficult judging by the effort you are putting into it, especially considering you have no valvetrain or compression to fight.
Please someone help..wife's truck blew up so I bought a really low mileage challenger engine 5.7 .. Why is the snout on the cam bigger than the center of my gear/phaser
Would this be the same timing procedure if I were to upgrade the cam on my hemi? Just ordered a comp cam and I'm wondering if this would be the same timing procedure.
I’m coming from overhead 4 strokes where we could easily see the cams and I’m confused on how y’all make sure youre on the compression stroke and not another stroke
The cam makes it the compression stroke. The piston has no idea if it is on its 2nd stroke on its 400th. Remember the crank turns twice to the cams one turn.
I think a lot of people are confused like I was about asking how do I know it’s on the intake stroke vs exhaust stroke, or how do I know it’s exactly at top dead center. I’ll explain this in a easy way for someone who has not done this before. There is 2 major steps. 1 is just just generally have the cam pin at the 12o clock position and the cylinder 1 at TDC. It’s not important if it’s a tiny bit off just put it there visually the best you can. Step 2 install the chain with the marks on the chain. Then make sure the bottom sprocket is also on the dimple of the sprocket. What sets the timing is the length of the chain on the side that is being pulled down from the cam to the crank. The chain could be 100 feet long and it won’t matter. It’s the distance of that specific mark that they have Put on the chain. And as long as it’s on the correct marks it can’t be installed incorrectly givin that you had step 1 done. It’s not thaaat important even if it’s not at tdc precisely or the cam not exactly at 12oclock cuz when you put the chain on you will see how far your off and you can spin the cam or crank to line them up. I had never worked on any engin and I changed my cam and lifters myself so at first it was super confusing. And how this guy is explaining it is not wrong but for a first timer lol no pun intended it would have just made me more confused. Also the only way you could mess up timing going by the chain marks is if the chain was manufactured incorrectly so prolly just stick with a Mopar chain and not some random brand. 🤷♀️ that’s my 2 cents
Only thing wrong with using the marks on the chain is when you turn it over to check your work the marks will never line back up. My way is how you time an engine. Can double check your work. Piston TDC and cam timing mark at 12:00 Not sure how that is confusing.
@@moparbymelton961 i need your number i need to talk to you on phone i have the same engine but my car basically all it's doing right now there's no combustion at all which is leading me to think that it's the timing chain that broke or the tensioner or the guide something happened I haven't even took a look at it yet but so far I'm looking into fixing it in 2 weeks
Apparently there are two marks on the phaser. One on the back and one on the front. I didn’t know that there was one on the front and I say that because it kicks the cam pin over to about the 2 o’clock position. From what I just saw, the cam pin should be 12 not 2. The crank keyway is at about 2 and the crank sprocket dimple should be at 6 denoting you’re on tdc #1. I totally am off a ton and barring it over found I’m binding on the end of each stroke. I’m going to pull the cover off again and put the pin at 12 on the cam and see what happens.
Honestly if this checks out, it is more explanatory than the Haynes manual. And easier to follow. I take it you don’t own or haven’t had the pleasure of dissecting one of these. Experiencing it directly right now I seen immediately what I did wrong. And no this is not my first rodeo with engine components but it is my first hemi. These things are simple in a sense yet there are some tedious things to be aware of.
I appreciate the No Bullshit approach you took in this. Thank you
Subscribed! Quick and straight forward lol 😎👍🏼 excellent
Lenny’s like listen up assholes it’s not splitting atoms😂😂
Glad I watched this video now I feel super confident in timing my car
I've had my 2012 ram 1500 5.7 hemi apart 3 times from other videos this is my first hemi I've worked on im use to old carburated sbf motors
Glad you got it all together. Thanks
Great explanation. Plain and easy to follow
Thank you
Thank you so much for that information, I never like drum brakes and timing chains til I saw this video, simple
I just took the whole front off the motor THREE times based on the advice from other "mechanics" and some other videos, and I'm still off. Should've watched this video to begin with! Sheesh 🙄
Thank you
Fire video
Great video, I just had my cam installed and I’m having serious issues with idle, vacuum and misfiring.
I’m TDC on cylinder 1 with the dot at 12pm but my keyway is closer to 1pm rather than 2pm. Would this suggest I’m off a tooth?
Most important part is making sure #1 piston is at TDC. With #1 at TDC cam should be a 12:00.
@@moparbymelton961 thanks, from the photo the builder sent it looks to be at 12 and cylinder 1 TDC. Maybe it moved or something, I’ll have to take the front cover off to verify. Popped a P0016 code, everything is pointing to the timing.
So I can’t confirm this but it seems there is a different mark on the phaser gear. One is definitely defined on the face looking at the block basically would be on the back of the gear when on the cam. That put my pin on the cam at 2oclock position and from what I just saw that pin looked at 12. I did bar it over like that fully assembled and was hitting resistance at the end of the strokes. You can slowly keep pressure and it will push past and then spin again but same deal it hits hard resistance at the end. I took the rockers off again as to shut the valves and did a leak down test to check if it bent any valves and I seem to have gotten extremely lucky and all reads well within range. However I’m definitely out of time if that pin in the cam is indicating the tdc position for the cam. Which thinking back to tear down that pin was at 12 tdc initially. Thx for the info though man it is stressful af doing timing but the more you do it the better you’ll get. I’m a pro at doing EJ Subaru engines but this is not a Subaru. Thx again
The timing mark is a line on the outside facing edge.
Would be slightly easier to index the #1 piston at TDC before installing the timing set. Works either way tho. Just preference I guess.🤷🏻
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience with the tube, question, how do you know #1 is at tdc on compression stroke vs exhaust stroke? Thank you again!
I believe it has jumped timing so I don't know of a way to ensure it is at tdc on intake vs exhaust
@@Mistfortune976 the cam gear has a mark on it. That is to be installed at 12:00 The crank turns 2 times per the cam once. The cam timing mark is to be installed at 12:00
@@Mistfortune976 the cam timing mark will be at 12:00 TDC and at 6:00 at TDC
Pull timing cover today and the crank sproketa is off one tooth, #8 cylinder has a dent from intake valve and obviously that valve is bent among others. I am gonna check the valves this weekend and reset the timing and button it up and let it ride assuming I get compression in #4,6 and 8 cylinders following timing reset! I appreciate you sir!
@@Mistfortune976 and this is exactly why I made this video because the blue links is a terrible way to time the engine!!! Thanks
I find your rotating assembly to be fairly difficult judging by the effort you are putting into it, especially considering you have no valvetrain or compression to fight.
You do realize that is a 3/8s drive rachet. Engine made around 900hp and has been together for a long time. Thanks
Not really, as the bearings, rings and pistons generate a fair amount of friction.
Is this the same for the 2014 charger 5.7
Yes, 💯
Please someone help..wife's truck blew up so I bought a really low mileage challenger engine 5.7 ..
Why is the snout on the cam bigger than the center of my gear/phaser
Should have got torque specs with that cam gear🤷♂️ I’d assume or would It really matter?
80 eagles per freedom on any fastener on that engine
Would this be the same timing procedure if I were to upgrade the cam on my hemi? Just ordered a comp cam and I'm wondering if this would be the same timing procedure.
Yes, sure is.
#1 piston at TDC and install cam with timing mark on the gear at 12:00
Good luck with the comp cam 😳
Can I put a stock 6.4 cam shaft in a 6.1 ??
No. 2 totally different blocks.
I’m coming from overhead 4 strokes where we could easily see the cams and I’m confused on how y’all make sure youre on the compression stroke and not another stroke
The cam makes it the compression stroke. The piston has no idea if it is on its 2nd stroke on its 400th. Remember the crank turns twice to the cams one turn.
How can you tell if piston 1 is in TDC without pulling the heads off?
A long screw driver will rest on the piston. Spin it over till it is up.
The proper way would be to use long dial indicator but a long screw driver works too.
How do i know i put the cam in sync with the piston
#1 Piston is at TDC.
@moparbymelton961 I mean like how do I know when incerting the cam it's in the right spot like is their a line on the cam as well?
@@thefavsrt yes, cam has a line on it.
I think a lot of people are confused like I was about asking how do I know it’s on the intake stroke vs exhaust stroke, or how do I know it’s exactly at top dead center. I’ll explain this in a easy way for someone who has not done this before. There is 2 major steps. 1 is just just generally have the cam pin at the 12o clock position and the cylinder 1 at TDC. It’s not important if it’s a tiny bit off just put it there visually the best you can. Step 2 install the chain with the marks on the chain. Then make sure the bottom sprocket is also on the dimple of the sprocket. What sets the timing is the length of the chain on the side that is being pulled down from the cam to the crank. The chain could be 100 feet long and it won’t matter. It’s the distance of that specific mark that they have Put on the chain. And as long as it’s on the correct marks it can’t be installed incorrectly givin that you had step 1 done. It’s not thaaat important even if it’s not at tdc precisely or the cam not exactly at 12oclock cuz when you put the chain on you will see how far your off and you can spin the cam or crank to line them up. I had never worked on any engin and I changed my cam and lifters myself so at first it was super confusing. And how this guy is explaining it is not wrong but for a first timer lol no pun intended it would have just made me more confused. Also the only way you could mess up timing going by the chain marks is if the chain was manufactured incorrectly so prolly just stick with a Mopar chain and not some random brand. 🤷♀️ that’s my 2 cents
Only thing wrong with using the marks on the chain is when you turn it over to check your work the marks will never line back up. My way is how you time an engine. Can double check your work. Piston TDC and cam timing mark at 12:00
Not sure how that is confusing.
Yeah, you are making it way more complicated than it actually is.
@@moparbymelton961 i need your number i need to talk to you on phone i have the same engine but my car basically all it's doing right now there's no combustion at all which is leading me to think that it's the timing chain that broke or the tensioner or the guide something happened I haven't even took a look at it yet but so far I'm looking into fixing it in 2 weeks
Apparently there are two marks on the phaser. One on the back and one on the front. I didn’t know that there was one on the front and I say that because it kicks the cam pin over to about the 2 o’clock position. From what I just saw, the cam pin should be 12 not 2. The crank keyway is at about 2 and the crank sprocket dimple should be at 6 denoting you’re on tdc #1. I totally am off a ton and barring it over found I’m binding on the end of each stroke. I’m going to pull the cover off again and put the pin at 12 on the cam and see what happens.
@@midnyte_ryder the timing mark is on the outside edge or the cam gear.
😂😂😂😂😂😂 what is this
Not sure what you are asking?
Terrible instructions.
Why do you think so? Very easy to follow and correct way to time a engine.
Honestly if this checks out, it is more explanatory than the Haynes manual. And easier to follow. I take it you don’t own or haven’t had the pleasure of dissecting one of these. Experiencing it directly right now I seen immediately what I did wrong. And no this is not my first rodeo with engine components but it is my first hemi. These things are simple in a sense yet there are some tedious things to be aware of.