Bro youre doing it the hard way. Take the chain off, put the number 1 cylinder at tdc the notch on the crank sprocket will be at 6oclock, then rotate the cam notch to 12oclock put the chain back on and its timed. The marked chain doesnt matter at all.
As I described in early comments, I am by no means a certified mechanic. I was having a hard time finding info on setting timing and not messing up my truck. I found this option and it helped me a ton and it ensured my truck was in time. without having to wonder about setting them independently?? a lot of ways to skin a cat and this was the best way for me. now that I am a little more versed on this repair if I had to do it again I would try your method.
I'll add this fyi- the 2010 ish v6 camaro, Cadillac, buick -(GM 3.6 l engines) don't go by tdc. It has 3 chains, and a specific sequence for removal and installation. The only way you know you did it right was that it runs afterwards. I've read the marks won't line up again.
Wow ...thanks for all of the hard work and video, big thanks to the Wife for helping out, just holding the camera, the light, or handing us a tool means SO much, hope your engine repair went well....
I appreciate the good vibes!! yes the repair went well 30k later and still running strong. we just got back from Amarillo TX. keep them greasy and they will run forever. knock on wood. but it has been performing well. have a good one
Thanks my 2012 Longhorn is shaking like a detoxed crackhead. I have to replace my camshaft and I was petrified of the timing belt but you explained it extremely well AND walked us through the entirety of it. Appreciate you bruh!
No worries, I am glad the video is able to help some guys out. it was pretty daunting when I attempted it but it all worked out and truck is running strong
Bro you saved my bacon with this video. Bought a Ram and didn't know squat about the timing when I had to remove everything to change the oil pump. Truck would crank but wouldn't start. Thanks to you I'm confident it'll line up now. Blessings
That is great to hear the video helped you. I am a DIY type of guy. and I had a hard time finding info on my truck when I needed it fixed. I am still driving it today and it is running great!! if it's broke fix it:) I see so many people trading in good cars that just need maintenance. have a good day.
Good for you for doing the job and not just paying the dealer. I did my 2007 last week and even though it took 3 days to get everything apart and 3 more to put it all back together I am glad I did it.
Tito, and Great wife. Great video, thanks for sharing. I did the same work, but my new replacement lifters failed, even after 3 days of soaking in oil. Thanks for sharing effects have paid off. God bless you all!
Adam you are exactly right my friend, I did try to replace just one lifter the first go round. I wasn't sure about pulling both heads and the timing chain. I tried to skip out with just the one lifter. As u can see it did not work:( this is my second go round, I did replace the cam, all 16 lifters, head bolts, cam bolt, crank bolt, all gaskets and spark plugs. I have 1200 miles on my truck since the fix and it's running great! Just towed my camper. Ack down from the mountains and everything is running how it should. I would agree anyone doing this repair I highly recommend replacing the cam and lifters.
Thanks for the very informative video! I really needed this since I did not know how to get the timing right, I had to replace my camshaft and lifters. I really do appreciate it Tito, thanks a bunch for this video!
Don't be afraid to just take off the chain and set the timing manually. It is much easier. With the chain off, you simply turn the crankshaft to cylinder 1 top dead center. Your keyway will automatically be at apr the two o'clock position actually pointing right at the number 1 cylinder. No way to screw this part up. The dot in the gear will also be in the 6 c'clock position and you can simply line up the mark on the chain. For the camshaft, turn it until the timing mark on the spocket is at the 1200 o'clock position. Then carefully slip it off, line up the chain marks with the camshaft sprocket along with the crank sprocket and slip the whole unit back on the shafts being careful not to turn it. Just wiggle it a little and it should pop right into place. Note, your tensioner has to be set back with a pin or small nail. If you are replacing the chain, hopefully, your kit came with both tensioners and a crank sprocket/gear. If you are putting in a new camshaft and lifters, then you will have to do it this way anyhow cause once you take out the old camshaft, you lose your reference timing position, so you might as well learn it so no matter what you do, you will get it right.
I was going to say something like this as well. Saying that if you just keep it going enough and everything will line up isn't the correct answer. As eventually even if it was installed incorrectly it will line up.
Exelente video y explicacion, nomas q entiendo x lo q miro no entiendo el ingles , pero si me sirvio amigo , grscias x este video si es lo q buscaba , saludos de aca de mazatlan sinaloa.
Thank you for this post. I had to turn the engine over by hand for nearly 50 minutes in order to get the original timing marks to show up. I left the spark plugs in because I ended up putting referbished heads on and a new cam in. Thought I had it all together right, but I was half a tooth off when I fired up and thankfully I didn’t hurt anything. But I had to pull the timing cover off again and go all through timing procedure again. We will see what happens today when I put it together. Thanks again.
I am glade to hear the info is helpful. I bet it was a little hard to turn with the heads and rocker arms installed? keep us posted I hope everything works out. it sounds like you are on the right track.
@@mechanicdave4899_ I apologize for the delay, the Holidays had me pre occupied. I am hoping you have fixed your issue? or your tapping has gone away? it is tough to diagnose without seeing it in person. it could be a number of different reasons? when I started mine it was loud and it did take 20 minutes roughly to quiet dow? Everything is linked to the camshaft. the valve train can be noisy? but if it is a loud know I would not recommend driving it until you have it figured out.
Tito Nunez I remove the heads and sent them back to the machine shop for a valuation they don’t believe it’s in the hands but truth be told the truck never made the noise until I got the head work done I’m waiting till tomorrow to get the heads looked at another machine shop to get a second opinion before I install I ended up putting different liquors in and the newest still returns after warm-up
@@mechanicdave4899 hey you ever figure it out ? I just swapped lifters and cam an truck sounds horrible now but every now an then it runs mint for a moment. I'm thinking oil pressure.
Great video bro! I have a 2013 ram i am lucky so far. With 75 thousand miles but scared as hell at the same time .so i watch all the videos on this subject..good job
Yes it is! I am happy to report that the truck is still running strong and towing my camper. currently I have used it to haul 10 tons of dirt. multiple trips of course. but the truck is a workhorse and still running great. (Knock on something) lol have a good one.
It was easier for me to line the top 2 up at 12 since I didnt pull the oil pan or radiator. 2012 300c had bad exhaust lifter looked the same as yours did cam is fine I have brand new heads etc. But great video and thanks it helped a lot
Awsome. Just Awsome. Only video that actually explains this procedure. Thank you. Mine ate a lifter and cam. Doing an MDS delete, new cam,new lifters. (Non MDS.) Tuner to turn off MDS. Great video....
I appreciate that Charles, I do not claim to be an all knowing mechanic just a blue collar working stiff with a little bit of no how. when I worked on my truck it was a lot of research and learning and I wanted to be able to show people what I had trouble finding online. even if it only helps 1 guy it was well worth the time to make it. again I appreciate the kind words have a great day!!
My buddy has a 13 quad cab with the 5.7 and I might be doing this to his truck. You learn as you go, and before you know it, you've got years behind you on doing this major labor. But, we save ourselves with labor and we learn. I don't like mopar at all, and I've owned several. E46 vert life (love/hate too, but nothing compares for a d.d) good job sir.
Thank you. Im getting ready to replace my camshaft and lifters in my 2011 charger. Lifter siezed and destroyed my camshaft. But im putting bigger cam in it. So win win
I wish I would have went performance/larger? I didn’t know enough at the time and how it would affect other stock components? I went stock and dang them lifters were expensive from Dodge lol Good Luck:)
I am glad someone is on this exact subject... FYI, the ratio is always a 4:1 hence a four stroke engine, however mathematically the timing Mark's on the chain only line up with every 28 revolutions of the crank because of the links in the chain so when you are replacing components you may have a lot of engine rotation to set mark's in time before disassembly.
This is the dumbest thing ive ever seen in my life. Those marks are for setting timing, not disassembly. If number 1 cylinder is at top dead and cam mark is at 12 you can disassemble regardless of chain link position 🤷🏽♂️
@@brokeboyracing4815 I think you missed the point. Your right with your comment, however the topic was relative to not seeing the bottom timing mark and replacing a camshaft without removing the oil pan and pump. If the cam gear is in 'time' then you can be sure the crank gear is as well before pulling it all apart. Hope I explained.
is it necessary to take off the cylinder head off to do timing chain line up. I have put back everything but we didn't check if the bottom timing chain is lined up at 6 o clock position because we didn't remove the oil pump and but top two line is line up and the cyl 1 was on top and now i wanna know if we need to take off the cylinder head off to do timing chain correction
Good vid Tito. I’m a cheap bastard too. I think I might consider heads already rebuilt and new head stud kit. Those factory lifters are so commonly bad. Spend the extra on good aftermarket.
Does this work even when I didn’t set my timing marks when taking off the chain? I don’t know if I can move forward without having the actual timing marks and I didn’t mark it. I didn’t take off the oil pump
I am doing this on my 2011 1500 i just did the lifters and cam and when I put the heads back on my timing wasn’t properly done by me. Is there a way to see if I am top dead center without taking the heads off?
Good video but dude the marks on the chain are for install reference only. Set your crank and cam to the 6 and 12 o clock positions and paint pen your own marks if you are reusing chain. If you ever work on a 4 chain set up (not this vehicle), realigning the original marks becomes exponentially implausible.
Hi there, Why does it matter for the engine to be timed before removing the cam? Can you just not remove everything, put it back together and then time it like shown in the video?
Thanks man! My truck is still running strong 25k later. keep them going. If I have it my way I will get this truck to the 300k club lol have a good one
my experience is if a lifter is that wore out then you are going to have issues with the camshaft as well. I've seen plenty of these hemi engines with messed up camshafts. hopefully you got lucky and can skate by with just replacing the damaged lifter.
Amazing video! Gonna help me a lot. I have a 2011 ram 1500 with 191k km on it. Mine is ticking lots and I'm preparing to do this job. Can I ask you why you removed the oil pump? Was it only to see the timing Mark's? Did you put a new chain? I read of a way to use the key hole on the crankshaft with the pump in to avoid removing the pump and dropping the oil pan, did you ever read anything like that? Thanks for making the video.
Ryan v Hi Ryan, I saw a video where the guy made 3 paint marks to keep his reference for the cam chain, then just pulled it to one side with a bungee to keep it from dropping of the bottom of the oil pump, so he did not have to remove the oil pump or put the motor on TDC, saves some time.
Thanks for the video. How many miles was on truck when this happened, and what type of oil was you using? I would guess it has more to do with the design than the oil though, if the engine is turning 4.000 RPM, those little rollers would be smoking, seems like they would have used a larger diameter roller, so they would spin slower and last longer?
I had right around 141k on the truck, I bought the truck with 102k I am not sure what oil they were using prior to purchase. I was using Auto zone brand oil. I have switched to Valvoline semi synthetic. i currently have 162k on the truck now and feeling strong. do you have any oils you would recommend?
Thanks for your reply. I don't know what oil would be best. I bought a new 2500 in 2014, it was a 2013 model they had left over. I have about six months left on the warranty and have all the service done at the dealer, but will do my own when warranty expires. They are using regular oil, don't know if synthetic oil would make a difference or not, this seems to be a pretty common problem with the Hemi.
Tito thank you and your wife great video this what’s been stopping me from changing my cam and lifters out because I wasn’t sure about getting the timing correct. Thanks for sharing that goes along way my friend I think u gave everyone on this thread a vote of confidence.. I do have one question for you is it necessary to remove your oil pan when replacing cam and lifters? Thank you in advance sir.
Rolan, I appreciate the kind words. I am glad to hear the video is helping people out. Again I am a home mechanic and this was a lot of work to figure out. It did save me a lot of money. I still own the truck and it has been pulling trailers strong ever since. I have heard of some guys not removing the oil pan. They only remove a few bolts and are able to bend the pan down?? I did remove the pan. to get to the last bolt on the oil cooler. The pan was probably one of the easier things to do on this repair. there is a lot of bolts but they are low torque and as long as you put a good seal and follow the torquing sequence it should tighten up nice. I would recommend removing the pan.
@@titonunez3431 Thank you sir for the prompted response I definitely appreciate it. I will remove mine also and glad to hear all the work you paid off and the truck is still running. Also what brand did you replace your parts with I see some stuff on Amazon not really sure if that’s a good brand what would you recommend? Thank you Tito.
@@rolankelly9683 I stuck with dodge for the Camshaft, lifters and head Bolts. I did buy gaskets from Auto zone felt pro if I remember. I thought about going to a bigger camshaft since I was in there doing the work. But ultimately leaned towards keeping everything stock and putting it back together to match factory. I figured one less thing to have to worry about trying to figure out. I also changed all spark plugs, serpentine belt and as much as I could since I had everything apart. Good luck with everything
Hi Tito I see you removed the oil pump in you video. When dropping the oil pan was there any issues or anything difficult. What was the procedure you followed to drop the oil pan to remove the oil pump? Any info would be appreciated
Ryan, it was very simple. I tried to remove the pump without removing the pan & that was a pain in the ass. I thought would save some work. but ultimately it was better to pull the pan. it came right out. I just remove the bolts. the trick is when installing the pan back to the truck. make sure you follow the tightening sequence. this is laid out in the repair manual. but you want to make sure it tightens even. similar to the heads, and timing cover. I hope this helps good luck but for sure remove the pan it is the way to go.
@@titonunez3431 Hi Tito thanks for the reply. The reason I ask is because the Haynes manual indicates that you need to lift the motor to remove the pan. I was hoping it's like you said and it's just dropping bolts then that's it. Hopefully mine is Similar to yours and dropping the pan is not difficult. Thanks for the info man. Much appreciated
@@titonunez3431 Hi Tito I have the heads off now as I finally tackled this job. What did you do to clean the head gasket mating surfaces on both the heads and block? Did you use acetone or alchohol? There are so many opinions and since your truck is running I was wondering what you did
how did the engine startup after this? trying to track down information myself for my 5.7, went with a comp cam, just want to make sure I've covered my bases before torquing everything down, good job!
Captain, The start up was the scariest part! Lol after all the work u come to the moment of truth! I followed the Haynes manual on start up and everything lined up with what the book said. 1. I started the truck and the lifters were loud! I thought something was wrong? But I rode it out, after 15 minutes they sounded good. After 30 minutes they sounded great!! I changed my oil at 100 miles and again at 500 miles and now I am at my normal intervals. Bottom line is the truck is running great. I just finished towing my 35' camper from Denver to the Grand Canyon and now to Vegas. It has never ran better. Stick in there u got this!!!
I did not install cam shaft bearing? the shaft pulled out and went right back into its slot. I did install all new lifters 16 total for intake and exhaust. replaced all bolts on head gaskets and seals. I apologize for the delay. I hope your repair went well.
Tito Nunez I have not started yet but I’m getting ready to buy all the parts. Where did you get your parts from? Are the lifters upgraded in a way or is there a high chance of a failed lifter in the future again? Thank you for your response bro
@@chingon0011 I decided to stay within the manufacturers specifications and I purchased all parts from my local dealer. I.e. camshaft, lifters, Head bolt kit & gaskets. I wanted all parts from Mopar to match what was initially installed. I know most guys will install a performance camshaft. I decided not too because I was happy with the performance and I did not want to start dealing with the headaches of modifying the camshaft? it would also require new timing chain and I was not interested in changing it. I would recommend all new lifters $500.00 from dealer , head bolts (once you remove the current ones, the bolts are stretched and some say you can not get proper torque?) $200.00 roughly, camshaft I DONT REMEMBER HOW MUCH PROBABLY $250.00ISH, gasket kit $125.00 with all parts, fluids, and random items I needed I want to ballpark my repair around $1500? I did have to buy some tools for the repair. Good luck!!
Tito Nunez I want to do everything original too, no performance stuff. Are the lifters the same? My concern with the lifters if they’re the same is them seizing up again and redoing the job in the future. Around How much does the dealer charge for the job?
The lifters are the same, all parts are mechanical and to run the risk of failing? For one reason or another? My opinion is it is less common than common. We are the unfortunate ones who have experienced a mechanical failure. If you replace it and everything else checks out. U have to trust the issue has been repaired. If you notice abnormal wear on multiple lifters I would investigate other areas for the cause? When u pull the oil pan check for metal chunks, when the lifter fails parts of metal can chip and work their way through the valve train down to the oil pan. And during its way down, the metal chunks/debris is squeezing its way through tight spaces gouging,scratching and possibly damaging other components? This is dooms day scenario. Chances are u will replace the lifters and camshaft and things will run great and you will continue to get years of mileage out of it:) the dealer quoted $4,600.00 to repair.
Can this be done without pulling the heads off I'm doing the water pump on an 03 1500 5.7 hemi with just shy of 170 K on it and figured I'd do a few other things while I have it apart
you will need to pull the heads to replace the lifters I think yon can pull the cam shaft without pulling the heads. but I am not for certain. I followed the repair manual.
Thanks for taking the time to make and share this video. I currently have a bad intake lifter on #1 cylinder and was thinking like you did to just pull that head and replace the lifter. What happened when you did this?
Randy, This is not recommended. I did try to replace strictly the bad lifter my first go around. It was like a bandaid on a broken bone. I replaced my 3 cylinder exhaust lifter and is sounded better for a brief time but ultimately my problem was not fixed. The lifter will cause damage to the cam shaft, so for this type of repair it is recommended to replace all lifters, camshaft. I did it half ass the 1st time and I ended up wasting time and money because I had to take it all back apart and replace both. best of luck
Duck, Ok, my only concern is prior to removing the timing chain is getting the oil pump off. Did you have to remove the oil pan? Did the pump rotate enough to the right for the pickup tube to clear the pan? Or did you remove the pickup tube?
Yes, I pulled the oil pan. I tried and tried to get to the bolt for the oil pump and could not? I tried to pry on the pan a little bit to make room and felt like I was going to damage something? So I decided to take off the oil pan. It wasn’t bad? There is a lot of bolts but it came off in about 20 minutes. The. I had an opportunity to clean it really well and inspect for other pieces of metal. I found a small ring from my lifter in there so I am glad I pulled the pan. I would recommend pulling it.
Good job but with all that labor I would have definitely changed the cam and all the lifters at that point other wise all your work would be worthless because the hemi is known for the cam going bad from lack of proper oil flow to the lifters which causes the lifters to go bad and destroying the cam shaft but hey your doing a good job regardless.
I pulled the Cam and put in new, cam, lifters, and timing chain/crank gear. But can't get it to crank back up. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. I moved the pistons after I had the cam out and now have the heads back on, how can I make sure I get back to top dead center? I put a rod in 1st cylinder driver's side and then rotated the engine until it was at the top. So I believe that puts the pistons to correct location then I put cam mark to 12 :00. then I put timing chain on with the blue links marking in the correct location. Rotated engine to make sure timing marks lined back up. put back together will crank over but no start. Can someone tell me where I'm going wrong?? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
Eric, I apologize for the delay, I hope u have go your truck to turn over?? It sounds more like a wiring deal? Have you checked all plugs and sensors you removed to get to the lifters? I think even if the truck wasn’t in time it would fire up, and you would hear some nasty sounds as it did. But I would start by looking everythinh over including coil pack connections? It sounds dumb but the truck has fuel? Spark?
Tito, Thanks for the help.... I ended up bending the push rods. So I must have had the timing wrong the 1st turn over and when I got the correct it was to late. Which means I didn't do enough research........ So I'm back to square one, once I get the new rods in. I know I can put #1 at TDC by having the key way at 2 o'clock and the dot at 6 o'clock on the crank shaft, because it only makes one rotation. But when it comes to the Camshaft I'm not sure if I'm at TDC on the cam because I believe?? it rotates 4 times to the 1 rotation on the crank. So I believe there's 4 times that the dot on the cam can be at 12 o'clock. What I need to know is how to make sure it's the right time it's at 12 o'clock. If you or anyone else knows how to do this, any and all help is must appreciated. Thanks Eric
Eric, did you understand Marks music? I was worried because I didn't see a fallow up post. its real easy just pull the chain off the put the crank in 6 o'clock the cam in 12 o'clock then slid the chain back on then your set. BTW here a like of MME video in stalling a cam and fazer makes a lot of sense after you see the video.ua-cam.com/video/77hcwGoOmZo/v-deo.html
you will need to remove both heads, manifolds, timing cover, oil pan and pretty much take the engine down to the block to complete this repair. it is a pain in the butt
Thanks friend, if it is true it is a headache to make this repair and even more when you have another job and almost do not have time, fortunately I finished the repair of my grand cherokee overland 2011, the work I did on weekends, it was perfect , all right, I do not understand why the lifters were damaged, I always used mobil 1 synthetic oil, and only got my truck 55 thousand miles, had a grand cherokee 05 truck with the same engine and had 150 thousand miles and never broke the engine nothing, the person who sold it still has the truck and the engine is as good as new. I do not know if under the Chrysler quality with his newest hemi. I also have a Chrysler 300c with a HEMI engine and it is a 2005 model and its engine is also new. Thank you for your advice.
I am glad to hear the information was able to help. I was in the same boat working on it after work and when I had time. plus it is a lengthly repair but once its complete. talk about a sense of accomplishment! great job keep them running.
Thank you Tito you did a professional job especially for someone who never has done that shit before man I didn't take the dam oil pump off mine and put everything back together and fucking figures the dam thing wouldnt start I wish I did but it actually worked out good cause I'm getting my income tax and I've decided to throw away the stock cam and put an aftermarket cam kit so I can race it. Question is did I fuck up the whole engine cause I tried starting mine and even put starter fluid in the intake and it's my old ass dad's truck hahahaha!!!??? My new Nick names the crooked mechanic! Jk! Lol!!!! Man I bet you.mustve.been so happy it started up and you got to dry it. Congrats. As much work as I've done I'm expecting to have a crowd of people ready to pop champagne and throwing confety and naked woman running around kissing me and lettinge suck the milk out their nipples cause im dehydrated from all this hard work. I'm glad it paid off for you brother. Thanks again for the video.
Rotate crank till mark is at 6 o'clock , rotate camshaft to get indentation mark at 12 and replace chain tensioner making sure the marks are centered with chain markings afterwards.
that is a tough one, I am not sure? from the comments the other guys have described another way to time your truck but I am not familiar with the other method. good luck and I hope you can find the info you are looking for
Having built and timed a ton of engines myself, I’m curious why you didn’t just set #1 at tdc with the cam sprocket at 6 o clock then just rotate the cam to match the chain install. You can do what you did on any engine, but that’s not how they are actually built.
Blake, I have never built a engine? This was the first time I have ever attempted this repair. I didn’t want to take things apart until the timing was set. I guess more than one way to skin a cat? I did learn about setting the number one cylinder afterwards it does look like it would be easier. This repair did work for me I used my truck to tow my 35’ camper to California and back I have roughly 7k since the fix and truck is running great. Hopefully I don’t have to do this again have a good day
DirtyDuck fair enough. We all have to start somewhere. If that’s the first major engine repair you’ve tackled, good job man. Most people are too scared to even try. At the end of the day, it’s just nuts and bolts 90% of the time. In some funky instances there are tools or procedures that the public doesn’t have access to, but in your case, my hat is off to you for accepting the challenge. I have an 09 Ram with a hemi in it but haven’t needed to go into the internals for any reason. I run Amsoil in mine and like it so much I became a dealer so I can share the benefits with my family and friends. Most of the people I know drive their vehicles well past the loan pay off time. Anyway, good job man.
I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. Can you explain why different videos have the double links on top and the single link on the bottom and opposite on other videos. Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
I pulled the Cam and put in new, cam, lifters, and timing chain/crank gear. But can't get it to crank back up. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. I moved the pistons after I had the cam out and now have the heads back on, how can I make sure I get back to top dead center? I put a rod in 1st cylinder driver's side and then rotated the engine until it was at the top. So I believe that puts the pistons to correct location then I put cam mark to 12 :00. then I put timing chain on with the blue links marking in the correct location. Rotated engine to make sure timing marks lined back up. put back together will crank over but no start. Can someone tell me where I'm going wrong?? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
I am not sure?? I followed the Haynes manual and recommendations on chain marking alignment. I did watch a lot of videos and they were a little inconsistent. I chose this method and it has paid off. This is the 2nd year I have towed my 35’ camper from Colorado to California since I repaired this Cam shaft and everything is working great I do recommend this method.
I tried to remove only one head and replaced lifter #3. That was the one that failed. The sound got better and truck ran a little smoother. Check engine went off for a little while but came back on. So second time I replaced all the lifters and pulled both heads. It has beer. Running solid ever since. Truck is at 186k now
@@titonunez3431 I would’ve probably went that route as well. Not now thanks to you! After further inspection I can actually see grooving starting on cylinder 7. Where did you buy all your parts from?
I purchased all stock OEM parts from our local dodge dealer. I thought about doing a performance cam. But thought that is more that could go wrong. I put in the factory spec lifters and cam with new gaskets/seals/spark plugs. I tried to replace as much as possible while In there good luck
I’m actually in the middle of setting the timing and I’m having a hard time torquing the camshaft bolt. The crank keeps turning when I get to about 50 ft pounds. Any suggestions on how you torqued it?
@@jkjwf It was very tough. I had to position a bar wedged against the frame of the truck, as I was torquing this allowed me to get the right torque but it was not easy. it took me several tries to get the bar to hold right and banging my hands. good luck hope this helps.
Thanks for getting back to me. Need to do mine getting parts together now. Like to have everything on hand before I start. Anyway thanks for the video.
Thanks man, I have had some good feedback on the video. my number 1 Cyl is TDC. from 16-16:45 I show it fairly well. but u are correct if the number 1 Cyl is not TDC u will have some problems when firing up.
There is bolt you need to remove on the oil pump. to get the oil pump out. some guys only remove some bolts from the oil pan and pry on the pan to get something inside to remove the oil pump. I tried to pry on it and it felt like I was going to break something. so I decided to remove the oil pan and I am glad I did because the lifter failed and it did have small metal chunks in the oil pan. this allowed me to clean everything and get the sludge out of the pan. putting it back was easy. add a sealant and tighten the 30 bolt lol hope this helps.
Tito Nunez ok thanks I’ll be replacing my cam in the future so I’m starting to research what needs to be done. But why does the oil pump need to come off? For clearance? Thanks again:)
Bryan, the timing Chan has there marked links. A single marked line on one side and two links back to back marked on the other side of the chain. These should be easily identified. Carefully look though the chain. The two links need to straddle the mark on the camshaft sprocket. The mark on the cam shaft sprocket needs to be at 12 o’clock. Think of the sprocket as a clock face and get the mark in the 12 o’clock position. It will line up with a bolt hole in the block at the top of the motor. This technique o my works if u have not removed your chain yet and everything is still connected from when u started the project. U will simply need to manually rotate everything until it lines up. If u already took the chain off and were not in time. U will need to get the #1 cylinder into TDC. Some other fellas on this thread commented on how to find tDC another way?? I am only familiar with the way in the video. Hope this helps good luck!! Have a good day
Dang!!! i had to drop my oil pan to get the last bolt on the oil pump, it was a B*#$ to get too!! Now that the chain is off you can still set the timing and get it just right. but i am not too familiar with that process. i know you have to get the 1st Cylinder in the top position it will be flush with the block. like the video towards the end. and then position to crank to ,match this position and you will be able to get the chain back on and be in time. @blakedymond is commenting further down. He mentioned this process. he may be able to offer some insight?? best of luck to you! u got this!
Well in theory the chain never moved. you could possibly slide the chain back onto the the cam sprocket in the same position you took it off? as long as the cam shaft sprocket did not rotate while you were taking off the chain???? very risky, I wouldn't do it. I would finish dropping the Oil pan, pull that oil pump completely and set the crank and the cam to TDC by rotating each individually into position. this is the only way to know for sure both are set right. Because if you're off a little it is going to be a big problem, and it is risky trying to slide that chain back on in hopes nothing moved?? that's a tough one..... , @@bryanunion5110
when the lifter failed it allowed the roller on the lifter to lower. this caused a grove in the lobe on the camshaft. I can send you a photo. I am not sure how to add a photo to this reply
What's the point ur letting the cam faser time its self, put number one cylinder at TDC and 12 o'clock with the cam sprocket and 6 o'clock with the crank. Ur done none of that turning crap lol. Good luck
I apologize for the delay. but yes the two marks will be straddling the mark on the camshaft sprocket and the single mark will line up with the indention on the crank sprocket.
FYI The Chilton manual (09-12) has this WRONG in the book. It shows the single link on the camshaft and the dual links on the crankshaft. Luckily I checked everything with a degree wheel and found all my timing events WAY OFF! I decided to try it the opposite of the book (did it the way you just showed) and magically all my cam card events are correct now. I can't imagine how many people have followed that book and not degreed the cam and had everything messed up! Good job brother, it's a lot of work but very rewarding, I've learned a whole lot building a new 2011 Stroker Hemi engine for my Ram.
you did it the hard way. Take the chain off. rotate the crank in place and then rotate the cam in the correct position. then put the chain on. Make sure the marks on the crank and cam line up with the marks on the chain. Put the number one piston at top dead center and it would have lined up. done in 2 minutes.
The whole thing was the hard way! Lol I have never attempted this type of repair? The learning curve was huge. But 1.5 years later and my truck is running strong! I primarily use my truck to tow my 35’ camper we have made the trip to Cali twice and back to Colorado. I have yanked it all over high country and Moab. Something worked.? Being my first repair I was not confident in taking the chain off prior to having the timing in the correct position. A few mechanic buddies have mentioned your process and for a seasoned vet it sounds like it would work? A new guy might be uncomfortable with that method. Thanks for the feedback.
I understand your reasoning. If the truck is run great then your good. The only reason I mentioned taking the chain off is if you do other repairs such as having to replace the camshaft which is a very common occurrence then you will have no choice but to remove the chain to take out the camshaft. The reason I mention taking of the chain is because you had no heads on the block and no lifters which is the only stress that would be on the camshaft from the springs pushing up against the rockers arms and put a load on the camshaft. In your situation and looking at your video. putting a pin in the tensioner holes would allow you to release pressure off the chain, Take the chain off. Rotate the crank until its at the six o clock. and then rotate the camshaft until its at 12 o clock. Then both would be in time. Carefully slide the chain back on. Put the tensioner back on. Boom, its done in less than 2 minutes. Most older engines such as 351, 350, 302, 305, 460, 454, 427, 307 and so forth or even V6 engines with chains, The camshaft dot would point at the 6 o clock and the crankshaft at the 12 o clock. and they do not have chain guides or tensioners. Engine builders take the chain, cam sprocket and crank sprocket and slide to the camshaft, and crankshaft all in one move. done. it takes 15 seconds put on the chain. Overhead cam motors are a little more time consuming. I been building engines for 25 years. For a novice like yourself, just remember that for every time the crankshaft spins a complete 360 degree rotation. the camshaft only would have move half a turn. the crankshaft will turn twice for every one rotation of the camshaft. This is because of intake stroke and then the exhaust stroke. This is why the crankshaft sprocket is much smaller than the camshaft sprocket. When you take the chain off. put the crank at the right timing position. and put the camshaft at the right timing position, and put the chain on. on in some cases, if its a belt on most overhead cam engines. The engine will fire up every single time. The number one piston is always setup to fire in the correct firing order. Good luck to you and just letting you know that from a experience engine builder that it is way easier and faster so that way it can help you out in future engine builds. Just remember that in some cases, avoiding taking the chain off is inevitable and will have to be done depending on the engine failure.
I appreciate the feedback, I am always looking to learn more and be more efficient. between you and me I am hoping I do not have to complete this repair again Lol it was a challenge and great learning experience. again I appreciate the feedback cheers DN
These Hemi engines are zero clearance engines. Never rotate the crank without also rotating the cam with it. Obviously he had the heads off but it's good practice to never rotate without the chain connected.
Actually it is. As long as there no load on the lifter from the push rods because of pressure from the valve springs. With no cylinder heads on the block there are no valves to hit any pistons. It is only a never a good practice with the engine assemble with the heads bolted on with the push rods installed. The object is make sure the valves are not opening while rotating the engine or you can take a risk of valve hitting a piston. There is never a risk in a short block form because there are no valves to hit any pistons.
NICE VIDEO SIR. BUT YOU DONT NEED TO ROTATE THE ENGINE SO MANY TIME TO DO SO. AS LONG YOU HAVE THE TOP AND BOTTOM MARKS WHERE THEY GO YOU SHOULD BE OK. THE MARKS ON THE CHAIN ARE JUST FOR REFERENCE AND HELP A LOT. BUT... EVERYBODY WORK DIFFERENT. NICE JOB BRO.
Thanks man, yea for sure more than one way to skin a cat. I thought about rotating the cam shaft separately but I was not sure that I would get cylinder 1 to the top position and the crank in the corresponding position. I knew my truck was in time prior to starting the repair. so I wanted to take out some of the room for error out of the equation. By rotating manually, it ensured both crank and cam shafts were both in the correct position. Because u can put the dot on the cam at the 12 o'clock position but that does not mean cylinder 1 will be in top position?? you have to get both in this position. and that was the part i was leery of??? so i decided to take the long route but safe bet to make sure it was in time. have a great day DN
I always thought that it could not be done and I see is possible. I tried it once and after five minutes without luck I never tried it again. Thanks for the video and nice truck. I love them.
Yes sir I did install a new Cam I kept it stock and picked the lifters, cam and header bolts from dodge. I was targeting timing. but 4 years later and I am still running this truck. we just towed back from South Dakota with my 35' camper. truck is a work horse:)
This had nothing to do with "setting" the timing, only "checking" the timing. To set the timing, all you had to do was get the #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke. The dot on the crankshaft sprocket will line up at 6 o'clock with #1 compression stroke at TDC. Lay or hold the chain out with the two camshaft timing marks at 12 o'clock, place the camshaft/VVT sprocket into the chain with mark between the two timing links on the chain, drop in the crankshaft sprocket so that the mark on the sprocket is at 6 o'clock and lined up in the center of the timing link. Have the camshaft pin at 12 o'clock. Now carefully slide the assembly first onto the crankshaft then onto the pin on the camshaft, then put in the camshaft bolt. You would have saved yourself 19 minutes of unnecessary cranking.
If you watched the video u would. Hear my explanation of why I did it this way. What suprises me is how many guys know how to set timing but yet wast your 19 min watching you tube videos on how to set timing. Crazy. I will keep cranking until it lines up. Happy wrenching
@@titonunez3431 By your own admittance, this was the first time you have ever done a job like this and you supposedly spent hours researching how to do it. I did not watch your video to learn how to set the timing, I watched the video because I'm in the process of researching tons of data on the Hemi lifter failure to pinpoint the precise cause and eliminate the dozens of theories people have out there. I have already rebuilt Hemi engines before and know perfectly well how to set the timing. Whatever UA-cam video you watched that told you to crank and crank until the timing marks lined up, was inexperienced themselves. You do not EVER have to go through that trouble. At the end of the video, you alluded to the fact that you were going to remove the camshaft. All you had to do was place the #1 piston at TDC and remove the chain and sprockets, REGARDLESS of where the timing marks were at. The timing marks are only important when you’re ready for install. Once your new camshaft is in and the front plate bolted down, you simply rotate the camshaft so that the dowel is at 12 O’clock. Take your VVT camshaft sprocket and hold it up with the timing mark at 12 O’clock. Place the chain onto the sprocket so that the two top timing marks straddle each side of the sprocket timing mark. Then take the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark at 6 O’clock and place it into the chain so that the timing mark lines up with the mark on the timing chain. Holding each sprocket, pull outward to hold the chain tight. Slip the crankshaft onto the crankshaft first and slip the keyway over the key in the shaft. Then slip the VVT sprocket onto the camshaft so that the slot on the back of the sprocket slips onto the dowel pin on the camshaft. Now put in your camshaft bolt and hold the center of the chain inward to prevent slack while you install your guide and tensioner. It’s that simple. Literally a 10 minute job, and no cranking and cranking necessary. Don’t get your feelings hurt because I tried to instruct you on the proper way to set the timing. I merely brought it up because people are going to watch your video and waste their time cranking and cranking unnecessarily, simply because you incorrectly told them that’s how to do it.
I have a 2004 dodge ram,with 5.7 hemi with a 256000 miles.i have done nothing to the motor except change oil and spark plugs. Nothing on the transmission neither. Why are you doing your timing
That is great! I love to hear trucks/cars staying on the road for the miles they were meant too. most people trade in at 100k and I am always thinking you still have a ton of life left on that vehicle. I bought my truck with 105k on it and drove it to 140k and ran into problems. Lifter failed and camshaft was damaged. that is why I repaired the camshaft. once my camshaft was installed I needed to set the timing. I am now currently at 163k and running strong. u know what they say keep her greasy and she will run forever. I am shooting for the 300k club one day?? have good one.
@@Raidersforlife229 idk what year it was but the lifters were made by melling in china and the rollers seized into cam bc crap quality. thats the issue with mds
It should- it takes a lot of turning but they have to line up. after so many revelations. do you think you set the timing and then they never line back up again?
OK well it looks like the cam dot isnt exactly "straght up". Looks slightly to the right of 12oclock. makes sense because im having a hell of a time setting my timing with the cam dot straight up. if its set slightly the right its perfect which is how its in your video. I thought i was going crazy. I even bought a different crank sprocket thinking the 5.7 one was different than the 6.2 hellcat one (installing a hellcat shortblock right now)
I would agree, it was a slightly off, 12:02ish. I was aiming as close as I could get. The other tricks was keeping everything straight when removing/torquing the cam shaft bolt. I am sure things moved a little bit? I am not sure if there is a small amount of variance from left to right? But I hope u were able to get your vehicle running?
I'm trying to set the timing on my Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. Can you explain why if I've got the timing marks all lined up and #1 at top dead center how having the cam slightly to the right matters? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
If you know how to do it you’re watching unnecessary videos. I have explained I am not a mechanic. But this worked great for me and I have had the truck 8 years and it is still running strong happy wrenching
Bro youre doing it the hard way. Take the chain off, put the number 1 cylinder at tdc the notch on the crank sprocket will be at 6oclock, then rotate the cam notch to 12oclock put the chain back on and its timed. The marked chain doesnt matter at all.
As I described in early comments, I am by no means a certified mechanic. I was having a hard time finding info on setting timing and not messing up my truck. I found this option and it helped me a ton and it ensured my truck was in time. without having to wonder about setting them independently?? a lot of ways to skin a cat and this was the best way for me. now that I am a little more versed on this repair if I had to do it again I would try your method.
I'll add this fyi- the 2010 ish v6 camaro, Cadillac, buick -(GM 3.6 l engines) don't go by tdc. It has 3 chains, and a specific sequence for removal and installation. The only way you know you did it right was that it runs afterwards. I've read the marks won't line up again.
Is removing the heads necessary when replacing the timing chain?
@@sooner4life38 no as long as you are just changing the chain only.
I know I was like woah all that to time an engine
U tube is a God send for the do it yourself mechanic.
Wow ...thanks for all of the hard work and video, big thanks to the Wife for helping out, just holding the camera, the light, or handing us a tool means SO much, hope your engine repair went well....
I appreciate the good vibes!! yes the repair went well 30k later and still running strong. we just got back from Amarillo TX. keep them greasy and they will run forever. knock on wood. but it has been performing well. have a good one
Thanks my 2012 Longhorn is shaking like a detoxed crackhead. I have to replace my camshaft and I was petrified of the timing belt but you explained it extremely well AND walked us through the entirety of it. Appreciate you bruh!
No worries, I am glad the video is able to help some guys out. it was pretty daunting when I attempted it but it all worked out and truck is running strong
Appreciate you sharing this, was helpful with the rebuild of my ram 5.7
Bro you saved my bacon with this video. Bought a Ram and didn't know squat about the timing when I had to remove everything to change the oil pump. Truck would crank but wouldn't start. Thanks to you I'm confident it'll line up now. Blessings
That is great to hear the video helped you. I am a DIY type of guy. and I had a hard time finding info on my truck when I needed it fixed. I am still driving it today and it is running great!! if it's broke fix it:) I see so many people trading in good cars that just need maintenance. have a good day.
Thanks for all the information and don't apologize for talking alot it helps me understand better when people talk alot
Good for you for doing the job and not just paying the dealer. I did my 2007 last week and even though it took 3 days to get everything apart and 3 more to put it all back together I am glad I did it.
Thank-you Sir, I appreciate your time and video, 👍 and a big thank-yous to your wife for helping you out. Good day. San Antonio TX.
I appreciate the kind words! I am happy to hear the video is still useful and helping answer some questions.
Tito, and Great wife. Great video, thanks for sharing. I did the same work, but my new replacement lifters failed, even after 3 days of soaking in oil. Thanks for sharing effects have paid off. God bless you all!
Most helpful video I’ve ever watched. I’ve doing a cam swap, mds delete, and valve train rebuild rn. Thank you!
Adam you are exactly right my friend, I did try to replace just one lifter the first go round. I wasn't sure about pulling both heads and the timing chain. I tried to skip out with just the one lifter. As u can see it did not work:( this is my second go round, I did replace the cam, all 16 lifters, head bolts, cam bolt, crank bolt, all gaskets and spark plugs. I have 1200 miles on my truck since the fix and it's running great! Just towed my camper. Ack down from the mountains and everything is running how it should. I would agree anyone doing this repair I highly recommend replacing the cam and lifters.
how much did u pay for all 16 lifters
@@gula77 it was around $500.00 from a dodge dealer
@@titonunez3431 for all 16?
Thanks man I apreacciate you and your lady for showing us how to do correctly
Thanks for the very informative video! I really needed this since I did not know how to get the timing right, I had to replace my camshaft and lifters. I really do appreciate it Tito, thanks a bunch for this video!
Overall, How was the job? Im about to do the same.
It wasn’t bad- keep good track of everything and label and take photos.
Don't be afraid to just take off the chain and set the timing manually. It is much easier. With the chain off, you simply turn the crankshaft to cylinder 1 top dead center. Your keyway will automatically be at apr the two o'clock position actually pointing right at the number 1 cylinder. No way to screw this part up. The dot in the gear will also be in the 6 c'clock position and you can simply line up the mark on the chain. For the camshaft, turn it until the timing mark on the spocket is at the 1200 o'clock position. Then carefully slip it off, line up the chain marks with the camshaft sprocket along with the crank sprocket and slip the whole unit back on the shafts being careful not to turn it. Just wiggle it a little and it should pop right into place. Note, your tensioner has to be set back with a pin or small nail. If you are replacing the chain, hopefully, your kit came with both tensioners and a crank sprocket/gear. If you are putting in a new camshaft and lifters, then you will have to do it this way anyhow cause once you take out the old camshaft, you lose your reference timing position, so you might as well learn it so no matter what you do, you will get it right.
I was going to say something like this as well. Saying that if you just keep it going enough and everything will line up isn't the correct answer. As eventually even if it was installed incorrectly it will line up.
Exelente video y explicacion, nomas q entiendo x lo q miro no entiendo el ingles , pero si me sirvio amigo , grscias x este video si es lo q buscaba , saludos de aca de mazatlan sinaloa.
Thank you for this post. I had to turn the engine over by hand for nearly 50 minutes in order to get the original timing marks to show up. I left the spark plugs in because I ended up putting referbished heads on and a new cam in. Thought I had it all together right, but I was half a tooth off when I fired up and thankfully I didn’t hurt anything. But I had to pull the timing cover off again and go all through timing procedure again. We will see what happens today when I put it together. Thanks again.
I am glade to hear the info is helpful. I bet it was a little hard to turn with the heads and rocker arms installed? keep us posted I hope everything works out. it sounds like you are on the right track.
Tito I got it all together and it runs smooth, but now I have tapping coming from top end. I’m confused now. No misfires or shaking.
@@mechanicdave4899_ I apologize for the delay, the Holidays had me pre occupied. I am hoping you have fixed your issue? or your tapping has gone away? it is tough to diagnose without seeing it in person. it could be a number of different reasons? when I started mine it was loud and it did take 20 minutes roughly to quiet dow? Everything is linked to the camshaft. the valve train can be noisy? but if it is a loud know I would not recommend driving it until you have it figured out.
Tito Nunez I remove the heads and sent them back to the machine shop for a valuation they don’t believe it’s in the hands but truth be told the truck never made the noise until I got the head work done I’m waiting till tomorrow to get the heads looked at another machine shop to get a second opinion before I install I ended up putting different liquors in and the newest still returns after warm-up
@@mechanicdave4899 hey you ever figure it out ? I just swapped lifters and cam an truck sounds horrible now but every now an then it runs mint for a moment. I'm thinking oil pressure.
Great video bro! I have a 2013 ram i am lucky so far. With 75 thousand miles but scared as hell at the same time .so i watch all the videos on this subject..good job
keep em greasy and they will run forever!! I appreciate the kind words
Great video. Timing is everything for sure
Yes it is! I am happy to report that the truck is still running strong and towing my camper. currently I have used it to haul 10 tons of dirt. multiple trips of course. but the truck is a workhorse and still running great. (Knock on something) lol have a good one.
It was easier for me to line the top 2 up at 12 since I didnt pull the oil pan or radiator. 2012 300c had bad exhaust lifter looked the same as yours did cam is fine I have brand new heads etc. But great video and thanks it helped a lot
I appreciate it!
Awsome. Just Awsome. Only video that actually explains this procedure. Thank you. Mine ate a lifter and cam. Doing an MDS delete, new cam,new lifters. (Non MDS.) Tuner to turn off MDS. Great video....
I appreciate that Charles, I do not claim to be an all knowing mechanic just a blue collar working stiff with a little bit of no how. when I worked on my truck it was a lot of research and learning and I wanted to be able to show people what I had trouble finding online. even if it only helps 1 guy it was well worth the time to make it. again I appreciate the kind words have a great day!!
My buddy has a 13 quad cab with the 5.7 and I might be doing this to his truck. You learn as you go, and before you know it, you've got years behind you on doing this major labor. But, we save ourselves with labor and we learn.
I don't like mopar at all, and I've owned several. E46 vert life (love/hate too, but nothing compares for a d.d) good job sir.
All I’m saying thank you for your time buddy good job
I appreciate it!
Thank you. Im getting ready to replace my camshaft and lifters in my 2011 charger. Lifter siezed and destroyed my camshaft. But im putting bigger cam in it. So win win
I wish I would have went performance/larger? I didn’t know enough at the time and how it would affect other stock components? I went stock and dang them lifters were expensive from Dodge lol Good Luck:)
Sweetfumblebee did you ever get yours fix if so how did everything go?
Thanks Tito. Gracias muchacho.
I am glad someone is on this exact subject... FYI, the ratio is always a 4:1 hence a four stroke engine, however mathematically the timing Mark's on the chain only line up with every 28 revolutions of the crank because of the links in the chain so when you are replacing components you may have a lot of engine rotation to set mark's in time before disassembly.
This is the dumbest thing ive ever seen in my life. Those marks are for setting timing, not disassembly. If number 1 cylinder is at top dead and cam mark is at 12 you can disassemble regardless of chain link position 🤷🏽♂️
@@brokeboyracing4815 I think you missed the point. Your right with your comment, however the topic was relative to not seeing the bottom timing mark and replacing a camshaft without removing the oil pan and pump. If the cam gear is in 'time' then you can be sure the crank gear is as well before pulling it all apart. Hope I explained.
Good job very well explained
Now i now
Some others video are going to fast
Good info brother. I think you're probably included in a recall for the timing chain and guide though.
is it necessary to take off the cylinder head off to do timing chain line up. I have put back everything but we didn't check if the bottom timing chain is lined up at 6 o clock position because we didn't remove the oil pump and but top two line is line up and the cyl 1 was on top and now i wanna know if we need to take off the cylinder head off to do timing chain correction
Good vid Tito. I’m a cheap bastard too. I think I might consider heads already rebuilt and new head stud kit. Those factory lifters are so commonly bad. Spend the extra on good aftermarket.
Great info thank you for the video
Good job im doing A2005 magnum 5.7 hemi is it the same way or the other way arround not sure some websites says different let me know
Awesome thanks helps a ton
Does this work even when I didn’t set my timing marks when taking off the chain? I don’t know if I can move forward without having the actual timing marks and I didn’t mark it. I didn’t take off the oil pump
I am doing this on my 2011 1500 i just did the lifters and cam and when I put the heads back on my timing wasn’t properly done by me. Is there a way to see if I am top dead center without taking the heads off?
Great job
Yo estoy asiendo una como esta gracias por todo buen trabajo amigo
Good video but dude the marks on the chain are for install reference only. Set your crank and cam to the 6 and 12 o clock positions and paint pen your own marks if you are reusing chain. If you ever work on a 4 chain set up (not this vehicle), realigning the original marks becomes exponentially implausible.
Great info
Hi there, Why does it matter for the engine to be timed before removing the cam? Can you just not remove everything, put it back together and then time it like shown in the video?
Hell no. When you do that when turning it on the vehicle will be shacking, ticking from engine, bad crank or no crank, bad idle.
I have a 2016 and cant get tlit to start. If i spray starting fluid, all i get is gun shot sound. Could be that the timing is missed up?
Great video thanks
Thanks man! My truck is still running strong 25k later. keep them going. If I have it my way I will get this truck to the 300k club lol have a good one
did you check the cam? it could be worn down on that lobe.
my experience is if a lifter is that wore out then you are going to have issues with the camshaft as well. I've seen plenty of these hemi engines with messed up camshafts. hopefully you got lucky and can skate by with just replacing the damaged lifter.
You hit that on the head, I've done a ton of these hemi's and have never seen a camshaft survive a bad lifter
Well done 👍
Amazing video! Gonna help me a lot. I have a 2011 ram 1500 with 191k km on it. Mine is ticking lots and I'm preparing to do this job. Can I ask you why you removed the oil pump? Was it only to see the timing Mark's? Did you put a new chain? I read of a way to use the key hole on the crankshaft with the pump in to avoid removing the pump and dropping the oil pan, did you ever read anything like that? Thanks for making the video.
Ryan v Hi Ryan, I saw a video where the guy made 3 paint marks to keep his reference for the cam chain, then just pulled it to one side with a bungee to keep it from dropping of the bottom of the oil pump, so he did not have to remove the oil pump or put the motor on TDC, saves some time.
@@flyingdream777 I'll search for that. Arranging the timing seems like a pain following the hanes guide so this would be helpful.
Thanks for the video. How many miles was on truck when this happened, and what type of oil was you using? I would guess it has more to do with the design than the oil though, if the engine is turning 4.000 RPM, those little rollers would be smoking, seems like they would have used a larger diameter roller, so they would spin slower and last longer?
I had right around 141k on the truck, I bought the truck with 102k I am not sure what oil they were using prior to purchase. I was using Auto zone brand oil. I have switched to Valvoline semi synthetic. i currently have 162k on the truck now and feeling strong. do you have any oils you would recommend?
Thanks for your reply. I don't know what oil would be best. I bought a new 2500 in 2014, it was a 2013 model they had left over. I have about six months left on the warranty and have all the service done at the dealer, but will do my own when warranty expires. They are using regular oil, don't know if synthetic oil would make a difference or not, this seems to be a pretty common problem with the Hemi.
There a way to lock the crank in place for when you pull the chain and cam?
Not that I seen, I got things into position and I was very careful when removing the components.
Tito thank you and your wife great video this what’s been stopping me from changing my cam and lifters out because I wasn’t sure about getting the timing correct. Thanks for sharing that goes along way my friend I think u gave everyone on this thread a vote of confidence.. I do have one question for you is it necessary to remove your oil pan when replacing cam and lifters?
Thank you in advance sir.
Rolan,
I appreciate the kind words. I am glad to hear the video is helping people out. Again I am a home mechanic and this was a lot of work to figure out. It did save me a lot of money. I still own the truck and it has been pulling trailers strong ever since.
I have heard of some guys not removing the oil pan. They only remove a few bolts and are able to bend the pan down??
I did remove the pan. to get to the last bolt on the oil cooler. The pan was probably one of the easier things to do on this repair. there is a lot of bolts but they are low torque and as long as you put a good seal and follow the torquing sequence it should tighten up nice. I would recommend removing the pan.
@@titonunez3431 Thank you sir for the prompted response I definitely appreciate it. I will remove mine also and glad to hear all the work you paid off and the truck is still running.
Also what brand did you replace your parts with I see some stuff on Amazon not really sure if that’s a good brand what would you recommend?
Thank you Tito.
@@rolankelly9683 I stuck with dodge for the Camshaft, lifters and head Bolts. I did buy gaskets from Auto zone felt pro if I remember. I thought about going to a bigger camshaft since I was in there doing the work. But ultimately leaned towards keeping everything stock and putting it back together to match factory. I figured one less thing to have to worry about trying to figure out. I also changed all spark plugs, serpentine belt and as much as I could since I had everything apart. Good luck with everything
Hi Tito I see you removed the oil pump in you video. When dropping the oil pan was there any issues or anything difficult. What was the procedure you followed to drop the oil pan to remove the oil pump? Any info would be appreciated
Ryan,
it was very simple. I tried to remove the pump without removing the pan & that was a pain in the ass. I thought would save some work. but ultimately it was better to pull the pan. it came right out. I just remove the bolts. the trick is when installing the pan back to the truck. make sure you follow the tightening sequence. this is laid out in the repair manual. but you want to make sure it tightens even. similar to the heads, and timing cover. I hope this helps good luck but for sure remove the pan it is the way to go.
@@titonunez3431 Hi Tito thanks for the reply. The reason I ask is because the Haynes manual indicates that you need to lift the motor to remove the pan. I was hoping it's like you said and it's just dropping bolts then that's it. Hopefully mine is Similar to yours and dropping the pan is not difficult. Thanks for the info man. Much appreciated
@@titonunez3431 Hi Tito
I have the heads off now as I finally tackled this job. What did you do to clean the head gasket mating surfaces on both the heads and block? Did you use acetone or alchohol? There are so many opinions and since your truck is running I was wondering what you did
#Salute
how did the engine startup after this? trying to track down information myself for my 5.7, went with a comp cam, just want to make sure I've covered my bases before torquing everything down, good job!
Captain,
The start up was the scariest part! Lol after all the work u come to the moment of truth! I followed the Haynes manual on start up and everything lined up with what the book said.
1. I started the truck and the lifters were loud! I thought something was wrong? But I rode it out, after 15 minutes they sounded good. After 30 minutes they sounded great!! I changed my oil at 100 miles and again at 500 miles and now I am at my normal intervals. Bottom line is the truck is running great. I just finished towing my 35' camper from Denver to the Grand Canyon and now to Vegas. It has never ran better. Stick in there u got this!!!
I just started up the challenger yesterday, everything ran great! your video definitely saved me a lot of potential heartache haha! Thumbs up
Good video I’m getting ready to do this job too for the same reason. At changing the camshaft did you install new camshaft bearings?
I did not install cam shaft bearing? the shaft pulled out and went right back into its slot. I did install all new lifters 16 total for intake and exhaust. replaced all bolts on head gaskets and seals. I apologize for the delay. I hope your repair went well.
Tito Nunez I have not started yet but I’m getting ready to buy all the parts. Where did you get your parts from? Are the lifters upgraded in a way or is there a high chance of a failed lifter in the future again? Thank you for your response bro
@@chingon0011 I decided to stay within the manufacturers specifications and I purchased all parts from my local dealer. I.e. camshaft, lifters, Head bolt kit & gaskets. I wanted all parts from Mopar to match what was initially installed. I know most guys will install a performance camshaft. I decided not too because I was happy with the performance and I did not want to start dealing with the headaches of modifying the camshaft? it would also require new timing chain and I was not interested in changing it. I would recommend all new lifters $500.00 from dealer , head bolts (once you remove the current ones, the bolts are stretched and some say you can not get proper torque?) $200.00 roughly, camshaft I DONT REMEMBER HOW MUCH PROBABLY $250.00ISH, gasket kit $125.00 with all parts, fluids, and random items I needed I want to ballpark my repair around $1500? I did have to buy some tools for the repair. Good luck!!
Tito Nunez I want to do everything original too, no performance stuff. Are the lifters the same? My concern with the lifters if they’re the same is them seizing up again and redoing the job in the future. Around How much does the dealer charge for the job?
The lifters are the same, all parts are mechanical and to run the risk of failing? For one reason or another? My opinion is it is less common than common. We are the unfortunate ones who have experienced a mechanical failure. If you replace it and everything else checks out. U have to trust the issue has been repaired. If you notice abnormal wear on multiple lifters I would investigate other areas for the cause? When u pull the oil pan check for metal chunks, when the lifter fails parts of metal can chip and work their way through the valve train down to the oil pan. And during its way down, the metal chunks/debris is squeezing its way through tight spaces gouging,scratching and possibly damaging other components? This is dooms day scenario. Chances are u will replace the lifters and camshaft and things will run great and you will continue to get years of mileage out of it:) the dealer quoted $4,600.00 to repair.
Can this be done without pulling the heads off I'm doing the water pump on an 03 1500 5.7 hemi with just shy of 170 K on it and figured I'd do a few other things while I have it apart
you will need to pull the heads to replace the lifters I think yon can pull the cam shaft without pulling the heads. but I am not for certain. I followed the repair manual.
You can do the cam without pulling the heads, you need to remove down to the pushrods however
Thanks for taking the time to make and share this video. I currently have a bad intake lifter on #1 cylinder and was thinking like you did to just pull that head and replace the lifter. What happened when you did this?
Randy,
This is not recommended. I did try to replace strictly the bad lifter my first go around. It was like a bandaid on a broken bone. I replaced my 3 cylinder exhaust lifter and is sounded better for a brief time but ultimately my problem was not fixed. The lifter will cause damage to the cam shaft, so for this type of repair it is recommended to replace all lifters, camshaft. I did it half ass the 1st time and I ended up wasting time and money because I had to take it all back apart and replace both. best of luck
Duck, Ok, my only concern is prior to removing the timing chain is getting the oil pump off. Did you have to remove the oil pan? Did the pump rotate enough to the right for the pickup tube to clear the pan? Or did you remove the pickup tube?
Yes, I pulled the oil pan. I tried and tried to get to the bolt for the oil pump and could not? I tried to pry on the pan a little bit to make room and felt like I was going to damage something? So I decided to take off the oil pan. It wasn’t bad? There is a lot of bolts but it came off in about 20 minutes. The. I had an opportunity to clean it really well and inspect for other pieces of metal. I found a small ring from my lifter in there so I am glad I pulled the pan. I would recommend pulling it.
Good job but with all that labor I would have definitely changed the cam and all the lifters at that point other wise all your work would be worthless because the hemi is known for the cam going bad from lack of proper oil flow to the lifters which causes the lifters to go bad and destroying the cam shaft but hey your doing a good job regardless.
72-76 rotations. I don't recall exactly, yet i just did it a minute ago.
Nice- glad the timing video helped. hope it made things easier and gave you some help.
I pulled the Cam and put in new, cam, lifters, and timing chain/crank gear. But can't get it to crank back up. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. I moved the pistons after I had the cam out and now have the heads back on, how can I make sure I get back to top dead center? I put a rod in 1st cylinder driver's side and then rotated the engine until it was at the top. So I believe that puts the pistons to correct location then I put cam mark to 12 :00. then I put timing chain on with the blue links marking in the correct location. Rotated engine to make sure timing marks lined back up. put back together will crank over but no start. Can someone tell me where I'm going wrong?? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
Eric,
I apologize for the delay, I hope u have go your truck to turn over?? It sounds more like a wiring deal? Have you checked all plugs and sensors you removed to get to the lifters? I think even if the truck wasn’t in time it would fire up, and you would hear some nasty sounds as it did. But I would start by looking everythinh over including coil pack connections? It sounds dumb but the truck has fuel? Spark?
Tito,
Thanks for the help.... I ended up bending the push rods. So I must have had the timing wrong the 1st turn over and when I got the correct it was to late. Which means I didn't do enough research........ So I'm back to square one, once I get the new rods in. I know I can put #1 at TDC by having the key way at 2 o'clock and the dot at 6 o'clock on the crank shaft, because it only makes one rotation. But when it comes to the Camshaft I'm not sure if I'm at TDC on the cam because I believe?? it rotates 4 times to the 1 rotation on the crank. So I believe there's 4 times that the dot on the cam can be at 12 o'clock. What I need to know is how to make sure it's the right time it's at 12 o'clock. If you or anyone else knows how to do this, any and all help is must appreciated.
Thanks
Eric
Eric,
did you understand Marks music? I was worried because I didn't see a fallow up post. its real easy just pull the chain off the put the crank in 6 o'clock the cam in 12 o'clock then slid the chain back on then your set. BTW here a like of MME video in stalling a cam and fazer makes a lot of sense after you see the video.ua-cam.com/video/77hcwGoOmZo/v-deo.html
@@ericdeming7748 Hi Eric, I Understand what your saying. Just curious were you able to figure this out?
It is a least common multiple question. One factor is the number of teeth on the crank sprocket. The other factor is the number of links of the chain.
i cant get my cylinder head off because the rear passenger bolts are switched with some wierd clamps
Friend, how can you remove the camshaft without removing the engine heads. There is no risk of a lifter falling into the engine?
you will need to remove both heads, manifolds, timing cover, oil pan and pretty much take the engine down to the block to complete this repair. it is a pain in the butt
Thanks friend, if it is true it is a headache to make this repair and even more when you have another job and almost do not have time, fortunately I finished the repair of my grand cherokee overland 2011, the work I did on weekends, it was perfect , all right, I do not understand why the lifters were damaged, I always used mobil 1 synthetic oil, and only got my truck 55 thousand miles, had a grand cherokee 05 truck with the same engine and had 150 thousand miles and never broke the engine nothing, the person who sold it still has the truck and the engine is as good as new. I do not know if under the Chrysler quality with his newest hemi. I also have a Chrysler 300c with a HEMI engine and it is a 2005 model and its engine is also new. Thank you for your advice.
I am glad to hear the information was able to help. I was in the same boat working on it after work and when I had time. plus it is a lengthly repair but once its complete. talk about a sense of accomplishment! great job keep them running.
Hey brother. You will burn the crankshaft bearing this way with no oil pressure.
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Thank you Tito you did a professional job especially for someone who never has done that shit before man I didn't take the dam oil pump off mine and put everything back together and fucking figures the dam thing wouldnt start I wish I did but it actually worked out good cause I'm getting my income tax and I've decided to throw away the stock cam and put an aftermarket cam kit so I can race it. Question is did I fuck up the whole engine cause I tried starting mine and even put starter fluid in the intake and it's my old ass dad's truck hahahaha!!!??? My new Nick names the crooked mechanic! Jk! Lol!!!! Man I bet you.mustve.been so happy it started up and you got to dry it. Congrats. As much work as I've done I'm expecting to have a crowd of people ready to pop champagne and throwing confety and naked woman running around kissing me and lettinge suck the milk out their nipples cause im dehydrated from all this hard work. I'm glad it paid off for you brother. Thanks again for the video.
What do you do when the timing chain is broken from the start?
Rotate crank till mark is at 6 o'clock , rotate camshaft to get indentation mark at 12 and replace chain tensioner making sure the marks are centered with chain markings afterwards.
that is a tough one, I am not sure? from the comments the other guys have described another way to time your truck but I am not familiar with the other method. good luck and I hope you can find the info you are looking for
Having built and timed a ton of engines myself, I’m curious why you didn’t just set #1 at tdc with the cam sprocket at 6 o clock then just rotate the cam to match the chain install. You can do what you did on any engine, but that’s not how they are actually built.
Blake, I have never built a engine? This was the first time I have ever attempted this repair. I didn’t want to take things apart until the timing was set. I guess more than one way to skin a cat? I did learn about setting the number one cylinder afterwards it does look like it would be easier. This repair did work for me I used my truck to tow my 35’ camper to California and back I have roughly 7k since the fix and truck is running great. Hopefully I don’t have to do this again have a good day
DirtyDuck fair enough. We all have to start somewhere. If that’s the first major engine repair you’ve tackled, good job man. Most people are too scared to even try. At the end of the day, it’s just nuts and bolts 90% of the time. In some funky instances there are tools or procedures that the public doesn’t have access to, but in your case, my hat is off to you for accepting the challenge. I have an 09 Ram with a hemi in it but haven’t needed to go into the internals for any reason. I run Amsoil in mine and like it so much I became a dealer so I can share the benefits with my family and friends. Most of the people I know drive their vehicles well past the loan pay off time. Anyway, good job man.
I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. Can you explain why different videos have the double links on top and the single link on the bottom and opposite on other videos. Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
I pulled the Cam and put in new, cam, lifters, and timing chain/crank gear. But can't get it to crank back up. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I'm trying to set the timing on my 2011 Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. I moved the pistons after I had the cam out and now have the heads back on, how can I make sure I get back to top dead center? I put a rod in 1st cylinder driver's side and then rotated the engine until it was at the top. So I believe that puts the pistons to correct location then I put cam mark to 12 :00. then I put timing chain on with the blue links marking in the correct location. Rotated engine to make sure timing marks lined back up. put back together will crank over but no start. Can someone tell me where I'm going wrong?? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
I am not sure?? I followed the Haynes manual and recommendations on chain marking alignment. I did watch a lot of videos and they were a little inconsistent. I chose this method and it has paid off. This is the 2nd year I have towed my 35’ camper from Colorado to California since I repaired this Cam shaft and everything is working great I do recommend this method.
Awesome video! What went wrong when you attempted the fix the first time around?
I tried to remove only one head and replaced lifter #3. That was the one that failed. The sound got better and truck ran a little smoother. Check engine went off for a little while but came back on. So second time I replaced all the lifters and pulled both heads. It has beer. Running solid ever since. Truck is at 186k now
@@titonunez3431 I would’ve probably went that route as well. Not now thanks to you! After further inspection I can actually see grooving starting on cylinder 7. Where did you buy all your parts from?
I purchased all stock OEM parts from our local dodge dealer. I thought about doing a performance cam. But thought that is more that could go wrong. I put in the factory spec lifters and cam with new gaskets/seals/spark plugs. I tried to replace as much as possible while In there good luck
I’m actually in the middle of setting the timing and I’m having a hard time torquing the camshaft bolt. The crank keeps turning when I get to about 50 ft pounds. Any suggestions on how you torqued it?
@@jkjwf It was very tough. I had to position a bar wedged against the frame of the truck, as I was torquing this allowed me to get the right torque but it was not easy. it took me several tries to get the bar to hold right and banging my hands. good luck hope this helps.
Any updates wondering if it started?
Yes sir, it did start and has been running strong since repairs were completed. 30k and two trips to California later. knock on wood lol
Thanks for getting back to me. Need to do mine getting parts together now. Like to have everything on hand before I start.
Anyway thanks for the video.
Hey, great video. Only thing is that I noticed when your marks were all lined up Cyl 3 was at TDC. Cyl 1 should be
Thanks man, I have had some good feedback on the video. my number 1 Cyl is TDC. from 16-16:45 I show it fairly well. but u are correct if the number 1 Cyl is not TDC u will have some problems when firing up.
It is on TDC cyl 1 on 15.40 mark
how many miles were on the engine ?
141k, I towed to Cali after the fix two times now and my truck currently has 157k on it and running great.
How’s come you removed the oil pan?
There is bolt you need to remove on the oil pump. to get the oil pump out. some guys only remove some bolts from the oil pan and pry on the pan to get something inside to remove the oil pump. I tried to pry on it and it felt like I was going to break something. so I decided to remove the oil pan and I am glad I did because the lifter failed and it did have small metal chunks in the oil pan. this allowed me to clean everything and get the sludge out of the pan. putting it back was easy. add a sealant and tighten the 30 bolt lol hope this helps.
Tito Nunez ok thanks I’ll be replacing my cam in the future so I’m starting to research what needs to be done. But why does the oil pump need to come off? For clearance? Thanks again:)
What do the top marks have to line up with?
Bryan, the timing Chan has there marked links. A single marked line on one side and two links back to back marked on the other side of the chain. These should be easily identified. Carefully look though the chain. The two links need to straddle the mark on the camshaft sprocket. The mark on the cam shaft sprocket needs to be at 12 o’clock. Think of the sprocket as a clock face and get the mark in the 12 o’clock position. It will line up with a bolt hole in the block at the top of the motor. This technique o my works if u have not removed your chain yet and everything is still connected from when u started the project. U will simply need to manually rotate everything until it lines up. If u already took the chain off and were not in time. U will need to get the #1 cylinder into TDC. Some other fellas on this thread commented on how to find tDC another way?? I am only familiar with the way in the video. Hope this helps good luck!! Have a good day
Tito Nunez yep we already took the chain off because we couldn’t get the oil pump off .
Dang!!! i had to drop my oil pan to get the last bolt on the oil pump, it was a B*#$ to get too!! Now that the chain is off you can still set the timing and get it just right. but i am not too familiar with that process. i know you have to get the 1st Cylinder in the top position it will be flush with the block. like the video towards the end. and then position to crank to ,match this position and you will be able to get the chain back on and be in time. @blakedymond is commenting further down. He mentioned this process. he may be able to offer some insight?? best of luck to you! u got this!
Tito Nunez it’s not completely off the crank sprocket
Well in theory the chain never moved. you could possibly slide the chain back onto the the cam sprocket in the same position you took it off? as long as the cam shaft sprocket did not rotate while you were taking off the chain???? very risky, I wouldn't do it. I would finish dropping the Oil pan, pull that oil pump completely and set the crank and the cam to TDC by rotating each individually into position. this is the only way to know for sure both are set right. Because if you're off a little it is going to be a big problem, and it is risky trying to slide that chain back on in hopes nothing moved?? that's a tough one..... , @@bryanunion5110
What did the camshaft look like?
Geat video!
when the lifter failed it allowed the roller on the lifter to lower. this caused a grove in the lobe on the camshaft. I can send you a photo. I am not sure how to add a photo to this reply
Yeah it needs a camshaft
What's the point ur letting the cam faser time its self, put number one cylinder at TDC and 12 o'clock with the cam sprocket and 6 o'clock with the crank. Ur done none of that turning crap lol. Good luck
If you have a 3rd gen 2010 dodge 1500 the two Mark's on your chain will go on the camshaft sprocket and your single mark will go on crank sprocket
I apologize for the delay. but yes the two marks will be straddling the mark on the camshaft sprocket and the single mark will line up with the indention on the crank sprocket.
FYI The Chilton manual (09-12) has this WRONG in the book. It shows the single link on the camshaft and the dual links on the crankshaft. Luckily I checked everything with a degree wheel and found all my timing events WAY OFF! I decided to try it the opposite of the book (did it the way you just showed) and magically all my cam card events are correct now. I can't imagine how many people have followed that book and not degreed the cam and had everything messed up! Good job brother, it's a lot of work but very rewarding, I've learned a whole lot building a new 2011 Stroker Hemi engine for my Ram.
you did it the hard way. Take the chain off. rotate the crank in place and then rotate the cam in the correct position. then put the chain on. Make sure the marks on the crank and cam line up with the marks on the chain. Put the number one piston at top dead center and it would have lined up. done in 2 minutes.
The whole thing was the hard way! Lol I have never attempted this type of repair? The learning curve was huge. But 1.5 years later and my truck is running strong! I primarily use my truck to tow my 35’ camper we have made the trip to Cali twice and back to Colorado. I have yanked it all over high country and Moab. Something worked.? Being my first repair I was not confident in taking the chain off prior to having the timing in the correct position. A few mechanic buddies have mentioned your process and for a seasoned vet it sounds like it would work? A new guy might be uncomfortable with that method. Thanks for the feedback.
I understand your reasoning. If the truck is run great then your good. The only reason I mentioned taking the chain off is if you do other repairs such as having to replace the camshaft which is a very common occurrence then you will have no choice but to remove the chain to take out the camshaft. The reason I mention taking of the chain is because you had no heads on the block and no lifters which is the only stress that would be on the camshaft from the springs pushing up against the rockers arms and put a load on the camshaft. In your situation and looking at your video. putting a pin in the tensioner holes would allow you to release pressure off the chain, Take the chain off. Rotate the crank until its at the six o clock. and then rotate the camshaft until its at 12 o clock. Then both would be in time. Carefully slide the chain back on. Put the tensioner back on. Boom, its done in less than 2 minutes. Most older engines such as 351, 350, 302, 305, 460, 454, 427, 307 and so forth or even V6 engines with chains, The camshaft dot would point at the 6 o clock and the crankshaft at the 12 o clock. and they do not have chain guides or tensioners. Engine builders take the chain, cam sprocket and crank sprocket and slide to the camshaft, and crankshaft all in one move. done. it takes 15 seconds put on the chain. Overhead cam motors are a little more time consuming. I been building engines for 25 years. For a novice like yourself, just remember that for every time the crankshaft spins a complete 360 degree rotation. the camshaft only would have move half a turn. the crankshaft will turn twice for every one rotation of the camshaft. This is because of intake stroke and then the exhaust stroke. This is why the crankshaft sprocket is much smaller than the camshaft sprocket. When you take the chain off. put the crank at the right timing position. and put the camshaft at the right timing position, and put the chain on. on in some cases, if its a belt on most overhead cam engines. The engine will fire up every single time. The number one piston is always setup to fire in the correct firing order. Good luck to you and just letting you know that from a experience engine builder that it is way easier and faster so that way it can help you out in future engine builds. Just remember that in some cases, avoiding taking the chain off is inevitable and will have to be done depending on the engine failure.
I appreciate the feedback, I am always looking to learn more and be more efficient. between you and me I am hoping I do not have to complete this repair again Lol it was a challenge and great learning experience. again I appreciate the feedback
cheers
DN
These Hemi engines are zero clearance engines. Never rotate the crank without also rotating the cam with it. Obviously he had the heads off but it's good practice to never rotate without the chain connected.
Actually it is. As long as there no load on the lifter from the push rods because of pressure from the valve springs. With no cylinder heads on the block there are no valves to hit any pistons. It is only a never a good practice with the engine assemble with the heads bolted on with the push rods installed. The object is make sure the valves are not opening while rotating the engine or you can take a risk of valve hitting a piston. There is never a risk in a short block form because there are no valves to hit any pistons.
NICE VIDEO SIR. BUT YOU DONT NEED TO ROTATE THE ENGINE SO MANY TIME TO DO SO. AS LONG YOU HAVE THE TOP AND BOTTOM MARKS WHERE THEY GO YOU SHOULD BE OK. THE MARKS ON THE CHAIN ARE JUST FOR REFERENCE AND HELP A LOT. BUT... EVERYBODY WORK DIFFERENT. NICE JOB BRO.
Thanks man, yea for sure more than one way to skin a cat. I thought about rotating the cam shaft separately but I was not sure that I would get cylinder 1 to the top position and the crank in the corresponding position. I knew my truck was in time prior to starting the repair. so I wanted to take out some of the room for error out of the equation. By rotating manually, it ensured both crank and cam shafts were both in the correct position. Because u can put the dot on the cam at the 12 o'clock position but that does not mean cylinder 1 will be in top position?? you have to get both in this position. and that was the part i was leery of??? so i decided to take the long route but safe bet to make sure it was in time. have a great day
DN
I always thought that it could not be done and I see is possible. I tried it once and after five minutes without luck I never tried it again. Thanks for the video and nice truck. I love them.
I hope you're changing your Cam if you got a bad lifter
Yes sir I did install a new Cam I kept it stock and picked the lifters, cam and header bolts from dodge. I was targeting timing. but 4 years later and I am still running this truck. we just towed back from South Dakota with my 35' camper. truck is a work horse:)
That's awesome I'm doing the exact job right now On my truck 2009 Dodge ram 1500
This had nothing to do with "setting" the timing, only "checking" the timing. To set the timing, all you had to do was get the #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke. The dot on the crankshaft sprocket will line up at 6 o'clock with #1 compression stroke at TDC. Lay or hold the chain out with the two camshaft timing marks at 12 o'clock, place the camshaft/VVT sprocket into the chain with mark between the two timing links on the chain, drop in the crankshaft sprocket so that the mark on the sprocket is at 6 o'clock and lined up in the center of the timing link. Have the camshaft pin at 12 o'clock. Now carefully slide the assembly first onto the crankshaft then onto the pin on the camshaft, then put in the camshaft bolt. You would have saved yourself 19 minutes of unnecessary cranking.
If you watched the video u would. Hear my explanation of why I did it this way. What suprises me is how many guys know how to set timing but yet wast your 19 min watching you tube videos on how to set timing. Crazy. I will keep cranking until it lines up. Happy wrenching
@@titonunez3431 By your own admittance, this was the first time you have ever done a job like this and you supposedly spent hours researching how to do it. I did not watch your video to learn how to set the timing, I watched the video because I'm in the process of researching tons of data on the Hemi lifter failure to pinpoint the precise cause and eliminate the dozens of theories people have out there. I have already rebuilt Hemi engines before and know perfectly well how to set the timing. Whatever UA-cam video you watched that told you to crank and crank until the timing marks lined up, was inexperienced themselves. You do not EVER have to go through that trouble.
At the end of the video, you alluded to the fact that you were going to remove the camshaft. All you had to do was place the #1 piston at TDC and remove the chain and sprockets, REGARDLESS of where the timing marks were at. The timing marks are only important when you’re ready for install.
Once your new camshaft is in and the front plate bolted down, you simply rotate the camshaft so that the dowel is at 12 O’clock. Take your VVT camshaft sprocket and hold it up with the timing mark at 12 O’clock. Place the chain onto the sprocket so that the two top timing marks straddle each side of the sprocket timing mark. Then take the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark at 6 O’clock and place it into the chain so that the timing mark lines up with the mark on the timing chain. Holding each sprocket, pull outward to hold the chain tight. Slip the crankshaft onto the crankshaft first and slip the keyway over the key in the shaft. Then slip the VVT sprocket onto the camshaft so that the slot on the back of the sprocket slips onto the dowel pin on the camshaft. Now put in your camshaft bolt and hold the center of the chain inward to prevent slack while you install your guide and tensioner. It’s that simple. Literally a 10 minute job, and no cranking and cranking necessary.
Don’t get your feelings hurt because I tried to instruct you on the proper way to set the timing. I merely brought it up because people are going to watch your video and waste their time cranking and cranking unnecessarily, simply because you incorrectly told them that’s how to do it.
I have a 2004 dodge ram,with 5.7 hemi with a 256000 miles.i have done nothing to the motor except change oil and spark plugs. Nothing on the transmission neither. Why are you doing your timing
That is great! I love to hear trucks/cars staying on the road for the miles they were meant too. most people trade in at 100k and I am always thinking you still have a ton of life left on that vehicle. I bought my truck with 105k on it and drove it to 140k and ran into problems. Lifter failed and camshaft was damaged. that is why I repaired the camshaft. once my camshaft was installed I needed to set the timing. I am now currently at 163k and running strong. u know what they say keep her greasy and she will run forever. I am shooting for the 300k club one day?? have good one.
bc theyre different engines
his is mds
@@jc-xo8yd 2006 dodge charger with hemi msd going on 320 thousand miles still running champ
@@Raidersforlife229 idk what year it was but the lifters were made by melling in china and the rollers seized into cam bc crap quality. thats the issue with mds
Timing an engine dont take that long and its not complicated
🤙
Good video but you can crank that all you want an it’s not just magically gonna line up on its own
It should- it takes a lot of turning but they have to line up. after so many revelations. do you think you set the timing and then they never line back up again?
OK well it looks like the cam dot isnt exactly "straght up". Looks slightly to the right of 12oclock. makes sense because im having a hell of a time setting my timing with the cam dot straight up. if its set slightly the right its perfect which is how its in your video. I thought i was going crazy. I even bought a different crank sprocket thinking the 5.7 one was different than the 6.2 hellcat one (installing a hellcat shortblock right now)
I would agree, it was a slightly off, 12:02ish. I was aiming as close as I could get. The other tricks was keeping everything straight when removing/torquing the cam shaft bolt. I am sure things moved a little bit? I am not sure if there is a small amount of variance from left to right? But I hope u were able to get your vehicle running?
I'm trying to set the timing on my Ram 1500 and having a hell of a time. Can you explain why if I've got the timing marks all lined up and #1 at top dead center how having the cam slightly to the right matters? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks Eric
Why didn't you just set number 1 to TDC then make sure you have the cam in time then slide the chain on ??? You are making unnecessary work
If you know how to do it you’re watching unnecessary videos. I have explained I am not a mechanic. But this worked great for me and I have had the truck 8 years and it is still running strong happy wrenching
Indentation ***************
Salute to you. 🫡 thank you for that bit of info brotha. Really helpful!!