I used to build boats back in the 80's, have done some gel repairs on my own boats over the years, too. There's a little trick so you don't have to build up and sand down the gel several times to fill the missing gelcoat from the damaged area. When you spread the gel into the void, use a piece of mylar over the top of the gel to smooth the fill material. This covers 2 points, it does a good job of pre-smoothing the fill, as well as help with the curing. Once hardened, a lot less sanding and the finish should be a lot easier to manage instead of all the high and low spots in the fill. Another suggestion is to not use a 4 & 1/2" square palm sander to do such a small area. The best way for small area repairs is to use a piece of paint mixing stick and wrap it around the stick, then wet sand the area, tearing off the used sandpaper as it degrades. This keeps your work area small, which prevents overworking the areas around the repair and thinning the gel on the non-damaged area. Good base video for those with little experience working with gelcoat repairs.
I used to work for WellCraft 88-91 , this tip is spot on . I would do one little thing different , I would add silica powder to the mix to make a putty and use a straight edge , cut out of a milk jug and follow the contour of the boat from top to bottom . Oh yeah ,I forgot one thing putting masking tape around the work area to illuminate extra standing and it gives you a little height because of the tape ,to fill in low spots. when sanding and you get to the tape, peel off the tape, now you know that the patch is thick as the tape and you don’t have much to sand from being done. Sure miss working on those boats 😢
@@MeaHeaR Mylar is a clear film. They now call it BoPET film. It's like the clear plastic used on gallon ziplog bags, only a little more firm so it stays flat. When you repair gel, you want the material to stay flat so the gel cures nice and flat. Less to sand.
@@MeaHeaR Most commonly used in window tinting, and if you have a small piece hanging around it's ok but likely you'll have to purchase it and it is a bit pricey compared to the wax paper I suggested that your wife might have in the kitchen if she bakes, the end result is still the same however..BTW for that matter parchment paper will also provide the same end result.
I’ve searched UA-cam for days researching how to do this myself. Your video with all of the helpful comments is by far the best out of probably 50 videos I’ve watched!!! Thank you for the video and everyone that commented their experience!
Agreed....I have done the same - looked and watched for hours. This video shows how easy it is, and in an easy to digest format without all the faff that many other UA-camrs engage in.
A couple of comments on points raised in this video:- 1/ The purpose made mixing cups may seem more expensive but they end up well worth while as, with care, they are reuseable. The trick is to let the resin set hard in the cup. Then with a bit of flexing the resin cracks away from the inside of the cup and can be pulled/wiped out leaving you with a clean cup than can be used again. 2/ It is not oxygen that leaves the surface unset & sticky, but water. Polyester resin will not set in the presence of water. This also answers the query on humidity affecting setting time. The answer to that query is not so much the it extends the time as that it will not let the surface set at all and the higher the humidity, the deeper the effect. This is usually got around by mixing in a little 'wax in styrene'. The styrene allows the mixture to easily mix in with your gelcoat mix and the wax will come out to the surface of the mix while hardening to form a protective layer against the atmosphere. Alternatively, I often place a piece of sellotape over the top if it is a small area on a FLAT surface,.which also saves sanding by make the repair flush. Or a larger area with a more complex shape can be covered with a shaped piece of plasticene. Both the sellotape and plasticene methods form a non-stick cover to keep the moisture out and let the surface set hard, with the added bonus of providing physical support to the gelcoat as it sets.
Use wax paper when the gel coat gets tacky, no wrinkles, just tape it over the repair to seal out air, it'll also stop dripping etc. and provide a smoother finish for sanding.
It’s a reaction with the moisture in the air some coatings do this when they cure and you have to wash it off prior to applying another coat they call it blush it’s pretty common in high solids coatings.
Dude I like this man. What a great type of channel. A lot of us guys like to do our own work on stuff After our day jobs. Very cool. I’m watching because I was trying to learn how to fix some little spider cracks on the bow of my boat
Very nice job and video! Thanks for taking the time and effort to capture this process. I was planning to take my Skeeter to a fiberglass place for a small chip under the bottom hull. Will skip the wait and expense by doing it myself. Very helpful. My favorite part was, "forgot to press record". That's totally what I would do if I tried to make these videos.
I mix my small amounts of Gelcoat on a piece of white formica board and use an artists spatular to put the gelcoat onto the boat.The formica is re useable time after time,it’s easy to clean with acetone and saves on using plastics. Remember to always use latex gloves as all products are toxic especially acetone.
For spreading the fiber glass I use an acid brush. It works great for that and then you can just throw it away. Also I use a small stainless steel canteen cup for mixing those compounds. It is easily cleaned and can even be sealed for further use.
You can use clear tape over the final coat of the repair which will cure the top layer (air barrier) and help to profile the repair level with the surrounding area
Three things. You can thicken the gel coat with micro balloons, or silica. Makes it stick better. Also, epoxies like gel coat can change color as they harden. For the final coat of gel coat you need to use gel coat with wax, as you said. But, you can use wax paper to smooth the final coat. Works like magic. You don't need to sand and polish near as much. Oh, and by the way, Spectrum makes gel coat repair kits for a lot different boats. All in all, you did pretty well.
Thanks - this gives me enough confidence to tackle a gouge about the same size. Mines higher up the side so the work will be more visible 😬 Upside is no chine edge to deal with - just flat.
great video. you mentioned that gelcoat mixes w hardener better if you use a little more gelcoat. how true. I used 1 teaspoon(plastic picnic spoon- 6 teaspoons=1oz) to 2 drops of hardener and it comes out like cottage cheese and is difficult to work with. I then tried 2 teaspoons w 4 drops of hardener and in a matter of minutes, it was a like a thick, very easy spreadable latex paint. thanks for the most important tip of all.
I can't remember exactly how much it cost, but it was pretty cheap. The gelcoat from Ranger was only about $25, and the mepk was a few dollars. I think the sand paper was maybe the most expensive part!
Hi, and thanks! The gelcoat I used did not have wax in. And you're right, wax or some other covering, would have protected it from the air and allowed it to cure fully on the surface.
Just a little bit of information for folks watching this. You have two kinds of gelcoat waxed and non waxed. The non waxed stuff will stay tacky so you can apply multiple coats before adding a waxed top layer or spraying pva over it so it will harden. The waxed stuff is a "finishing" gel and will dry hard. I prefer the waxed stuff myself even for multiple layers you just have to sand between layers. You can also use wax paper or something of the like to seal the gelcoat to aid in drying.
@@tnbass2833 Ty, I’ll have to research this. I’ve worked with bondo a lot but never repaired fiberglass. My boat was hit by truck on Lake Toledo Bend. So appreciate the information!!
@@jameskarr5550 Hi! PVA as Polyvinyl Alcohol and it helps the top layer of gelcoat cure. I'm not an expert, but I believe you spray it on the uncured gelcoat and it protects it from air and allows it to harden.
Very nice video! Any suggestions for finding a gel coat color match for vessels that are not as popular as rangers? I have a southern skimmer with tons of areas that need repair but I don’t have a clue where to start on getting the right color.
I wish I did - I know there are kits/systems out there to help color match. Someone from a fiberglass body shop might be willing to share how they do it. I'm sure there are some helpful videos on youtube as well, but good luck, and if you find a good one, let me know!
Good video..i like the fact that thing's don't go perfectly as in most video's And some good comments on how to correct them. I am live aboard on sailing boat with a few dings to repair!
I scuffed up the bottom of my boat right at the transom scraped off pieces of gelcoat. Wondering is it ok to leave in the water till season is done and then repair it after?
I got the gelcoat for this boat from Ranger (the company that made the boat). It might be worth contacting Boston Whaler to see, otherwise you'd have to look at aftermarket gelcoats.
Thanks! I have to be honest, gel coat has always intimidated me since I don't really know what I'm doing, but I definitely learned a lot. I'm glad the video was helpful!
If you want to help the gelcoat harden, wrap it in plastic. Saran Wrap. That will sufficate it and you will see how it hardens. Put it on once the gelcoat becomes tacky. What did you end up doing with the imperfections? I did the exact same work. Got the exact same results amd im wondering if the layer i out on was too thin.
Great tip on the plastic wrap, I have heard this before but haven't messed with it myself. For me, I didn't do anything about the imperfections and plan to just leave them. I think more initial grinding and a thicker application of gel coat would have prevented them from appearing. Thanks for the sharing your tip and experiences!
Just re-check each step, along the way. If the patch leaves voids, open them & repatch (just the voids, though.) If the gelcoat is imperfect, sand it again, only as needed & apply more gelcoat. Not all fixes are equal... Just be sure that each step is 100% before moving on to the next step. 🍻
Thanks for this video. Now then….Bro please do a video of the scratches in the flake part….that would be the most beneficial for so many of us that share the same situation.
It probably doesn’t match because gelcoat fades much faster then if your boat was painted . The new gelcoat was the color of when it was brand new . Your always better ok trying to color match it your self . You can have a brand new gelcoat and then get a ding in it say 3 years later and call the dealer for some matching gelcoat and it still wouldn’t match .. because of the UV rays fade it so quickly .. just a little tip man 🤙🏽
When it gets to that tacky stage take a piece of 2 inch wide clear packing tape you can press it over the repair sticky side out and you can do a better job without sanding.
I called the boat manufacture who was able to supply the gelcoat color that matched the boat, and then used off the shelf (at Walmart) MEKP hardener for it.
You can use a hair dryer to heat the epoxy, speeding up the cure and allowing you to recoat within minutes, as long as the product doesn't say not to. As long as the previous layer is still just a tiny bit tacky, it will chemically bond to the next new layer.
That smell is styrene. I was a Quailty Manager for Jacuzzi Intentional at one time. You eventually get used to it working there. When I first started working there my ankles would itch after I walked around on the production floor from the microscopic fiberglass strands your feet would stir up on the floor as you walked. After you work there awhile the itching was no longer noticeable.
I just used a cheap knockoff dremel with a grinding stone attached. It doesn't have to have the flexible extension on it, that's just what I had handy.
Thanks, I'd covered little nicks with gelcoat before, but never taken the time to try to finish it off. I figure there's no way to learn like jumping in and trying it.
BTW: Here (in the Netherlands) there is Gelcoat and Topcoat, Gelcoat will remain sticky forever, unless covered with plastic tape or topcoat, Topcoat will harden completely, a I assume some wax is added to it. I never use peelply when applying topcoat as there is no excess resing to remove and it doesn't help much with gel/topcoat imo (peelply is very usable when laminating). I've not used waxpaper before as was suggested by someone below but will definitely try that.
I contacted Ranger (the boat manufacture) for the gelcoat. They sell it in sizes as small as a pint which was helpful. The hardener I purchased separately, and it standard MEPK hardener you can get at most hardware stores.
Nice video and very informative. I'm just new to boating and started my boating life with a used 2007 Yamaha jet boat that we picked up this fall. Plan to do some cosmetic repairs, updates and upgrade over the winter. After reviewing the video I'm still unclear on how to go about getting the right color matching gel coat and materials that match the "white" shade on my boat. Could someone direct me to where could order gel coat for my application...? (2007 Yamaha Jet Boat).
That sounds like a lot of fun! In terms of finding colors, best I can suggest is to contact the company and see if they either sell it directly, or can give you a specific color code to get. I'm sure others have more experience and better tips in color matching than I do. Good luck!
Yamah will have a colour code chart for your model and year. Most mfg provide this info. Then this code is what you order from the GELCOTE supplier: -GELCOTE International -Spectrum GELCOTE -Total boat -Noah’ Marine (custom mixes)
Polyester resin is mixed at 1 or 2%. Weight of resin in grams to ml of Mekp. So for 1000g resin, 10ml of mekp. Not sure how that works for you imperial guys..
Thanks for the comment. And yes that's basically the approximation I was using except with v/v rather than w/v. Either way it gets close enough for practical purposes. I will also concede that metric certainly has its perks for making math easy, like 1g/mL for water (and therefore approximately the same for things of similar densities).
REALLY good video and thanks for showing the flaws at the end as well. Man, that color match sure does look good on video anyway. Would taping a piece of mylar over it to cure take care of the oxygen issue? I think I saw someone use a chunk of a party balloon as their mylar? Thanks for posting!
You should always clean the area before you sand and after you sand. Not cleaning before resulted in you grinding that surface dirt down into the gel coat. It literally takes 10 seconds to wipe down with alchohol.
13:31 Just an observation. What these areas may be also is air bubbles or places where the gel coat did not work into during the application. Tapping them in with the paint stirrer would have perhaps worked the gel coat in better or the use of a foam brush also. Overall it looks pretty damn good I think. Maybe hit these areas with a real fine dremel bit and apply very small drops of Gel Coat with a VERY small brush (One like you would use to paint a model airplane) then sand and buff with rubbing compound and then turtle wax. Again, nice job and EASY on the wallet as well!
Apply a layer of Vaseline over the repair. After the gelcoat has cured, clean off the area with alcohol. There are some dental materials that require this step.
Great point. Also should be noted that gelcoat is NOT waterproof but Fiberglass resin is. So you aren't protecting the fiberglass from getting wet or getting water in it. Osmotic blistering happens because gelcoat absorbs water...
I ended up using the 3000 grit in the end. It turned out pretty much the same as the rest of the gel coat, though if you were going for a really polished look, you'd probably want to use a buffing compound and buffer.
Thank you for the feedback! I recently moved to Dallas for a job, but my shop is still in KC, so things may be a little slow going while I figure out a solution (that I can afford) to get the garage moved down here too.
I used to build boats back in the 80's, have done some gel repairs on my own boats over the years, too. There's a little trick so you don't have to build up and sand down the gel several times to fill the missing gelcoat from the damaged area. When you spread the gel into the void, use a piece of mylar over the top of the gel to smooth the fill material. This covers 2 points, it does a good job of pre-smoothing the fill, as well as help with the curing. Once hardened, a lot less sanding and the finish should be a lot easier to manage instead of all the high and low spots in the fill. Another suggestion is to not use a 4 & 1/2" square palm sander to do such a small area. The best way for small area repairs is to use a piece of paint mixing stick and wrap it around the stick, then wet sand the area, tearing off the used sandpaper as it degrades. This keeps your work area small, which prevents overworking the areas around the repair and thinning the gel on the non-damaged area. Good base video for those with little experience working with gelcoat repairs.
Thanks for the expert insight. I the piece of paint mixing stick to sand is a great tip!
I used to work for WellCraft 88-91 , this tip is spot on . I would do one little thing different , I would add silica powder to the mix to make a putty and use a straight edge , cut out of a milk jug and follow the contour of the boat from top to bottom . Oh yeah ,I forgot one thing putting masking tape around the work area to illuminate extra standing and it gives you a little height because of the tape ,to fill in low spots. when sanding and you get to the tape, peel off the tape, now you know that the patch is thick as the tape and you don’t have much to sand from being done. Sure miss working on those boats 😢
Whats Myelar ???
@@MeaHeaR Mylar is a clear film. They now call it BoPET film. It's like the clear plastic used on gallon ziplog bags, only a little more firm so it stays flat. When you repair gel, you want the material to stay flat so the gel cures nice and flat. Less to sand.
@@MeaHeaR Most commonly used in window tinting, and if you have a small piece hanging around it's ok but likely you'll have to purchase it and it is a bit pricey compared to the wax paper I suggested that your wife might have in the kitchen if she bakes, the end result is still the same however..BTW for that matter parchment paper will also provide the same end result.
I’ve searched UA-cam for days researching how to do this myself. Your video with all of the helpful comments is by far the best out of probably 50 videos I’ve watched!!! Thank you for the video and everyone that commented their experience!
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad it was helpful!
Agreed....I have done the same - looked and watched for hours. This video shows how easy it is, and in an easy to digest format without all the faff that many other UA-camrs engage in.
@@datamonkey2450 Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful!
A couple of comments on points raised in this video:-
1/ The purpose made mixing cups may seem more expensive but they end up well worth while as, with care, they are reuseable. The trick is to let the resin set hard in the cup. Then with a bit of flexing the resin cracks away from the inside of the cup and can be pulled/wiped out leaving you with a clean cup than can be used again.
2/ It is not oxygen that leaves the surface unset & sticky, but water. Polyester resin will not set in the presence of water. This also answers the query on humidity affecting setting time. The answer to that query is not so much the it extends the time as that it will not let the surface set at all and the higher the humidity, the deeper the effect. This is usually got around by mixing in a little 'wax in styrene'. The styrene allows the mixture to easily mix in with your gelcoat mix and the wax will come out to the surface of the mix while hardening to form a protective layer against the atmosphere. Alternatively, I often place a piece of sellotape over the top if it is a small area on a FLAT surface,.which also saves sanding by make the repair flush. Or a larger area with a more complex shape can be covered with a shaped piece of plasticene. Both the sellotape and plasticene methods form a non-stick cover to keep the moisture out and let the surface set hard, with the added bonus of providing physical support to the gelcoat as it sets.
Thanks for the info on this. Definitely a learning process for me, and great to hear all of the great advice in the comments.
... Thank you for the video and thank you to all the people that helped with their comments.
Makes me think I will give it a go on my repair.
Jeff
Most Helpful Video yet on my Problem with My Boat Lots of Cracks to Fill in
Use wax paper when the gel coat gets tacky, no wrinkles, just tape it over the repair to seal out air, it'll also stop dripping etc. and provide a smoother finish for sanding.
Excellent tip, thanks!
It’s a reaction with the moisture in the air some coatings do this when they cure and you have to wash it off prior to applying another coat they call it blush it’s pretty common in high solids coatings.
Very good tip 🤚
Great thinking 💭 . Thanks this videos comment still giving 🙌
BTW I forgot to mention to explain to your wife why you're taking her wax paper into the garage first 😋..
Great "how to" video. You provided enough info to give even the most timid diy'er, the ability to effect a decent repair. Thanks
Thank you!
Dude I like this man. What a great type of channel. A lot of us guys like to do our own work on stuff
After our day jobs. Very cool.
I’m watching because I was trying to learn how to fix some little spider cracks on the bow of my boat
Thank you so much for the kind words, and keep having fun with those projects!
Great video. You are a natural at doing videos.
Thank you!
Add silica to the mixed gelcoat and the thicker mix will not be runny. It will be easier to control particularly on vertical surfaces. Good job.
Thanks for the tip!
Very nice job and video! Thanks for taking the time and effort to capture this process. I was planning to take my Skeeter to a fiberglass place for a small chip under the bottom hull. Will skip the wait and expense by doing it myself. Very helpful. My favorite part was, "forgot to press record". That's totally what I would do if I tried to make these videos.
Thank you so much! And yes, I always forget something (not just when making videos).
I mix my small amounts of Gelcoat on a piece of white formica board and use an artists spatular to put the gelcoat onto the boat.The formica is re useable time after time,it’s easy to clean with acetone and saves on using plastics. Remember to always use latex gloves as all products are toxic especially acetone.
For spreading the fiber glass I use an acid brush. It works great for that and then you can just throw it away. Also I use a small stainless steel canteen cup for mixing those compounds. It is easily cleaned and can even be sealed for further use.
one of the best videos that ive seen on how to fix small chips. very informative. thank you.
Thank you so much!
Great video where did you purchase the repair gel coat
You can use clear tape over the final coat of the repair which will cure the top layer (air barrier) and help to profile the repair level with the surrounding area
Three things. You can thicken the gel coat with micro balloons, or silica. Makes it stick better. Also, epoxies like gel coat can change color as they harden. For the final coat of gel coat you need to use gel coat with wax, as you said. But, you can use wax paper to smooth the final coat. Works like magic. You don't need to sand and polish near as much. Oh, and by the way, Spectrum makes gel coat repair kits for a lot different boats. All in all, you did pretty well.
Don't use a Solo cup. It melts. Great vid!
Lol, yes I figured that out
you can use wax paper to cover the gel so it sets up hard, have used wax paper on all kinds of fiberglass jobs
Good tip, thank you!
Perfect channel title! Just subscribed, thanks for getting to the project in a timely manner.
Thanks for the comment and the kind words. I appreciate it!
Thanks - this gives me enough confidence to tackle a gouge about the same size. Mines higher up the side so the work will be more visible 😬
Upside is no chine edge to deal with - just flat.
Good luck with your repair!
great video. you mentioned that gelcoat mixes w hardener better if you use a little more gelcoat. how true. I used 1 teaspoon(plastic picnic spoon- 6 teaspoons=1oz) to 2 drops of hardener and it comes out like cottage cheese and is difficult to work with. I then tried 2 teaspoons w 4 drops of hardener and in a matter of minutes, it was a like a thick, very easy spreadable latex paint. thanks for the most important tip of all.
Thanks for sharing!
What’s this cost? I have about 5 spots that are 3 times that length. Bought it used and figured I could fix it.
I can't remember exactly how much it cost, but it was pretty cheap. The gelcoat from Ranger was only about $25, and the mepk was a few dollars. I think the sand paper was maybe the most expensive part!
Hey good work. Do you know if the gelcoat you use already has wax in it. I understand wax is to prevent the gelcoat from being tacky after it dries.
Hi, and thanks! The gelcoat I used did not have wax in. And you're right, wax or some other covering, would have protected it from the air and allowed it to cure fully on the surface.
Flowcoat has the wax in it.
Just a little bit of information for folks watching this. You have two kinds of gelcoat waxed and non waxed. The non waxed stuff will stay tacky so you can apply multiple coats before adding a waxed top layer or spraying pva over it so it will harden. The waxed stuff is a "finishing" gel and will dry hard. I prefer the waxed stuff myself even for multiple layers you just have to sand between layers. You can also use wax paper or something of the like to seal the gelcoat to aid in drying.
This is great info, thank you for sharing!
What’s PVA?
@@jameskarr5550 polyvinal alcohol.
@@tnbass2833 Ty, I’ll have to research this. I’ve worked with bondo a lot but never repaired fiberglass. My boat was hit by truck on Lake Toledo Bend. So appreciate the information!!
@@jameskarr5550 Hi! PVA as Polyvinyl Alcohol and it helps the top layer of gelcoat cure. I'm not an expert, but I believe you spray it on the uncured gelcoat and it protects it from air and allows it to harden.
Very nice video! Any suggestions for finding a gel coat color match for vessels that are not as popular as rangers? I have a southern skimmer with tons of areas that need repair but I don’t have a clue where to start on getting the right color.
I wish I did - I know there are kits/systems out there to help color match. Someone from a fiberglass body shop might be willing to share how they do it. I'm sure there are some helpful videos on youtube as well, but good luck, and if you find a good one, let me know!
Thank you for honest experience and video. Very helpful
Good video..i like the fact that thing's don't go perfectly as in most video's And some good comments on how to correct them. I am live aboard on sailing boat with a few dings to repair!
Put plastic wrap over the gelcoat when it gets tacky and it will fully cure.
I scuffed up the bottom of my boat right at the transom scraped off pieces of gelcoat. Wondering is it ok to leave in the water till season is done and then repair it after?
Is there a clear code?You can put over your product to protect the paint more
Thanks! You’ve given me the confidence to do this on my SeaDoo. Nice video.
Thanks, glad it helped, and good luck with your repair!
Excellent video. I need to the exact repair on my 2013 130 Sport Boston Whaler. Would you recommend place where to buy gelcoat? thank you
I got the gelcoat for this boat from Ranger (the company that made the boat). It might be worth contacting Boston Whaler to see, otherwise you'd have to look at aftermarket gelcoats.
A cover of Cheap spray paint over will harden the gel coat just as good as wax additive...
good video man, you really show how easy it is, and pleasurable to do your own small repairs.
Thanks! I have to be honest, gel coat has always intimidated me since I don't really know what I'm doing, but I definitely learned a lot. I'm glad the video was helpful!
If you want to help the gelcoat harden, wrap it in plastic. Saran Wrap. That will sufficate it and you will see how it hardens. Put it on once the gelcoat becomes tacky. What did you end up doing with the imperfections? I did the exact same work. Got the exact same results amd im wondering if the layer i out on was too thin.
Great tip on the plastic wrap, I have heard this before but haven't messed with it myself. For me, I didn't do anything about the imperfections and plan to just leave them. I think more initial grinding and a thicker application of gel coat would have prevented them from appearing. Thanks for the sharing your tip and experiences!
Just re-check each step, along the way. If the patch leaves voids, open them & repatch (just the voids, though.) If the gelcoat is imperfect, sand it again, only as needed & apply more gelcoat. Not all fixes are equal... Just be sure that each step is 100% before moving on to the next step. 🍻
Thanks. Good guidance. Also, thanks for some of the comments
You can also paint over the gelcoat with PVA and it will cure solidly.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for this video. Now then….Bro please do a video of the scratches in the flake part….that would be the most beneficial for so many of us that share the same situation.
Great video mate, heaps of good info. Thanks for your time👍
Thanks, glad you found it helpful!
It probably doesn’t match because gelcoat fades much faster then if your boat was painted . The new gelcoat was the color of when it was brand new . Your always better ok trying to color match it your self . You can have a brand new gelcoat and then get a ding in it say 3 years later and call the dealer for some matching gelcoat and it still wouldn’t match .. because of the UV rays fade it so quickly .. just a little tip man 🤙🏽
Thanks for the tip!
Thank you! This is a great video that’s clear and easy to follow! I’ll be trying this next spring! Thank you!!
Thanks for the comment - Good luck with your repair!
The color will fade over time and blend in better, good job
Thank you!
You can add aerosol to the gelcoat mix to make a paste that will go on alot easier,that way its not running off the defect area!!!
How much do u add?
Cabosil
Would west systems 403 work as well you think?
Did you have to add wax on the last batch to get it to cure with the final coat?
I did not add wax, but as other have noted, it would have avoided the tackyness on the final coat that I ended up sanding off.
When it gets to that tacky stage take a piece of 2 inch wide clear packing tape you can press it over the repair sticky side out and you can do a better job without sanding.
Does it matter what grade sandpaper you use to start off with on your dremel? What would you recommend?
Do you happen to live on the east coast ? I have a crack just like that but way bigger looking for someone to fix it
I currently live in Dallas, and I promise you'd be better off with a professional! Good luck!
If you don't want a sticky finish use flowcoat wich has wax mixed in it already
What products were you using ?
I called the boat manufacture who was able to supply the gelcoat color that matched the boat, and then used off the shelf (at Walmart) MEKP hardener for it.
You can use a hair dryer to heat the epoxy, speeding up the cure and allowing you to recoat within minutes, as long as the product doesn't say not to. As long as the previous layer is still just a tiny bit tacky, it will chemically bond to the next new layer.
Thanks, this is a great tip for cold weather!
That smell is styrene. I was a Quailty Manager for Jacuzzi Intentional at one time. You eventually get used to it working there. When I first started working there my ankles would itch after I walked around on the production floor from the microscopic fiberglass strands your feet would stir up on the floor as you walked. After you work there awhile the itching was no longer noticeable.
Thanks for sharing, that's really interesting!
What kit did you buy and where did you order it
Whats the little tool you used in beginning.
I just used a cheap knockoff dremel with a grinding stone attached. It doesn't have to have the flexible extension on it, that's just what I had handy.
@@TheAfterWorkGarage Thanks mate that's all I wanted, the name of the tool. 👍🙏
Very nice for a first try! Good job.
Thanks, I'd covered little nicks with gelcoat before, but never taken the time to try to finish it off. I figure there's no way to learn like jumping in and trying it.
@@TheAfterWorkGarage Absolutely true, and sharing your little 'mistakes' is very helpfull too, so are many of the comments below.
BTW: Here (in the Netherlands) there is Gelcoat and Topcoat, Gelcoat will remain sticky forever, unless covered with plastic tape or topcoat, Topcoat will harden completely, a I assume some wax is added to it. I never use peelply when applying topcoat as there is no excess resing to remove and it doesn't help much with gel/topcoat imo (peelply is very usable when laminating). I've not used waxpaper before as was suggested by someone below but will definitely try that.
@@MegaPeers Thanks for sharing, this is definitely interesting to hear.
What is the company name that you got your gel coat from?
You could now use "top coat" to get color, without filling.
What gelcoat kit/ brand did you use? It came with hardener? Or u bought it separately
I contacted Ranger (the boat manufacture) for the gelcoat. They sell it in sizes as small as a pint which was helpful. The hardener I purchased separately, and it standard MEPK hardener you can get at most hardware stores.
How much wax do u add to gelcoat and what type of wax is it?
I didn't use any wax in this preparation, though next time I do this I'll probably give it a try.
Nice video and very informative. I'm just new to boating and started my boating life with a used 2007 Yamaha jet boat that we picked up this fall. Plan to do some cosmetic repairs, updates and upgrade over the winter. After reviewing the video I'm still unclear on how to go about getting the right color matching gel coat and materials that match the "white" shade on my boat. Could someone direct me to where could order gel coat for my application...? (2007 Yamaha Jet Boat).
That sounds like a lot of fun! In terms of finding colors, best I can suggest is to contact the company and see if they either sell it directly, or can give you a specific color code to get. I'm sure others have more experience and better tips in color matching than I do. Good luck!
Yamah will have a colour code chart for your model and year. Most mfg provide this info. Then this code is what you order from the GELCOTE supplier:
-GELCOTE International
-Spectrum GELCOTE
-Total boat
-Noah’ Marine (custom mixes)
Thanks for a good video. Well done by the way.
Thanks, I hope it was helpful. I honestly was just giving it a try as a DIY-er
Thanks for the video. A small drinking/rinsing paper cup without wax lining works great for mixing.
Thanks, that's a great suggestion, I'll have to try that next time.
Wonder if household cling film would suffice to contain the oxygen during cure
Great video!!
Thank you!
Great video, some people use clear packing tape to cover the area from air and then peel off 24 hours later...apparently it works well..
Thanks for the tip, that wounds like a good idea (and something that everyone has around)
Thank, you for you're video. 👍
As usual, nicely done!
Thank you!
The resin does not melt the cup, however the solvent or Mel will.
Very true!
Good initial job. I learned a lot and can now tackle my repair
Thanks! I figure, as long as I'm going to make mistakes anyways, I might as well share so we can all learn from them!
Looks great good job
Thank you!
Just get some PVA poly vinyl alcohol on Amazon and spray - it seals the top layer and is water soluble
Good tip thanks!
Polyester resin is mixed at 1 or 2%. Weight of resin in grams to ml of Mekp. So for 1000g resin, 10ml of mekp. Not sure how that works for you imperial guys..
Thanks for the comment. And yes that's basically the approximation I was using except with v/v rather than w/v. Either way it gets close enough for practical purposes. I will also concede that metric certainly has its perks for making math easy, like 1g/mL for water (and therefore approximately the same for things of similar densities).
@@TheAfterWorkGarage Basically 1 ounce weight is 28.4grams. 1 teaspoon is 5ml. 1 ounce volume is 28.4 ml
REALLY good video and thanks for showing the flaws at the end as well. Man, that color match sure does look good on video anyway. Would taping a piece of mylar over it to cure take care of the oxygen issue? I think I saw someone use a chunk of a party balloon as their mylar? Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the comment. My understanding is that covering it with anything that's air tight would work. Mylar balloon sounds like a great idea.
You should always clean the area before you sand and after you sand. Not cleaning before resulted in you grinding that surface dirt down into the gel coat. It literally takes 10 seconds to wipe down with alchohol.
This is a good point, thanks for sharing!
nice video dude. I am going 6o go look at my boat restoration project right now to see if there is any gel coat damage I want to fill in.
Good luck! Boat projects can definitely a lot (I did a transom on a different boat a while back), but it's all worth it once you get it together!
Nice work, thanks mate
13:31 Just an observation. What these areas may be also is air bubbles or places where the gel coat did not work into during the application. Tapping them in with the paint stirrer would have perhaps worked the gel coat in better or the use of a foam brush also. Overall it looks pretty damn good I think. Maybe hit these areas with a real fine dremel bit and apply very small drops of Gel Coat with a VERY small brush (One like you would use to paint a model airplane) then sand and buff with rubbing compound and then turtle wax. Again, nice job and EASY on the wallet as well!
Thanks so much for this informational video. I appreciate it!
Glad to help!
Nice job 👍🏾
Thank you!
You did a great job explaining this.
I am doing a 19 foot prowler bow rider.
Good luck!
Use gel coat with wax and Use cabosil to thicken the batch.
Apply a layer of Vaseline over the repair. After the gelcoat has cured, clean off the area with alcohol. There are some dental materials that require this step.
Thanks for the tip! Yeah if I ever do this again, I'll definitely do something differently.
The main goal of gelcoat is to protect the fiberglass underneath from uv light that breaks down the fiberglass.
Great point. Also should be noted that gelcoat is NOT waterproof but Fiberglass resin is. So you aren't protecting the fiberglass from getting wet or getting water in it. Osmotic blistering happens because gelcoat absorbs water...
You need to add wax to the last layer to make flowcoat or you need to put clear plastic over the top layer to make it flash off.
Thank you good info
Thanks!
Great video thanks
Thank you!
A quick wipe with acetone will get rid of that tacky Gelcoat if there is no wax.
Which grit sandpaper did you end up using after-all?
I ended up using the 3000 grit in the end. It turned out pretty much the same as the rest of the gel coat, though if you were going for a really polished look, you'd probably want to use a buffing compound and buffer.
Well explained ta
Awesome video mate thanks now I'm confident to do my own boat
Awesome I'm so glad!
Should fix it looks good but would look great if u just fixed that last little bit
Enjoyable. Great presentation- keep going. I subscribed & 👍
Thank you for the feedback! I recently moved to Dallas for a job, but my shop is still in KC, so things may be a little slow going while I figure out a solution (that I can afford) to get the garage moved down here too.
I used a red Dixie cup and it ate Thru cup enuf to pick up the red coloring. So use something else
I definitely figured that one out!
Well done great video. And as you said and i agree nit perfect but it would save you a lot of money doing it yourself
Thank you!
now just buff it 👍🏽
Why not use Peel Ply to help save on a lot of sanding and to give you a better finish.
That's a great suggestion. I actually didn't know what that was, but it sounds like it would have been really helpful.
id use peel ply over it
next time use flakes to make the gelcoat like bondo
your awesome dude
Thanks!