I have used wooden plugs to mold fiberglass parts using paraffin wax as my release agent. I make the plug wit a bit of draft, sand smooth, then melt and brush on 2 coats of the wax. This keeps the resin from adhering to the plug and by heating with a hot air gun to melt the wax allows reasonable ease of release.
Andy. For years I’ve used a sheet of Formica on my bench top to lay up small and larger fiberglass projects. Nothing seems to stick to it. Works better than a sheet of ply. Great videos!! Jim
I was thinking about half way through the making of the plugs, "does he have a little taper on the sides". I guess the answer was "no". That might have helped separating the two. As far as finishing I would do a glass smooth automotive style finish with a little pin striping just for kicks. But seriously whatever is quicker and easier this is a utilitarian piece after all. Keep the good stuff coming.
This is really usefull and i learned a lot. im going to make a headlight fairing for my old motorcycle, and there is nothing in the market that looks like the one in my imagination... im saving this video!
Great work as always. I used your waxed plywood trick to back up a large hole in my Mako center console. It worked a treat. The board even dropped off when the screws were backed out.
Funny this video comes out right when I need to make something similar! Thanks for showing how it's done! The work always looks so good. I'm all for a regular paint job on that.
I always enjoy watching what not to do because i would totally do some of the things i have seen on this channel if you hadn't told me not to!!!! Thanks for everything you produced over the year's
Glad you're doing well 🎉! Love your channel and learning. Because I am probably doing a paint project on all my topsides, and not gelcoat, the more paint content, the better! And loved the idea of letting your kids decorate when done! 😮
Geeeze Andy! It's a cover for a gas regulator located at the back of your house. Smear some bondo on it, power sand it and spray paint it. Done. You could have just glassed a cardboard box from a recent Amazon purchase. (Hope you realize that regulator may need to vent occasionally.) Love your channel AND your workmanship. Stay well.
Four months into probably a total year long process, i really feel for you. Four surgeries and two months in the hospital started it off for me, beginning on my 62nd birthday. Happy Birthday to me!! Then a rehab hospital for a few weeks to prepare me for home. I was confined to the bed as the surgeries were to both legs. Now four months in i have been told i can start putting weight on my feet. Hurray! I am told it will take many months to get my strength back. Simply standing is a Hurculian task at this point. Rehab is going to be hard work... probably the toughest in my life. But not wanting to be really stuck in a wheelchair for the rest of my life, work its gonna be. I say all of that to say this - life really is what happens as you are making other plans as John Lennon famously said. Its up to each of us what we do with our lives.
My vote goes for a paint finishing (polished, with the Boatworks Today logo and the whole charming stuff) and I'm very happy to see you back in the trench!! Wellcome back my dear friend!!
I am just finishing up a similar project. I chose to go with a little bondo cream filler and a high quality sprayed on paint. My project won't be in the sun, so it should last for decades. Do make sure you rodent proof the openings or they will move in. While it is too late to tell you this, a flexible baking pan makes for a great mold. Thanks for the video as always.
Glad things are going well Andy. You have motivated me to get my shoulder issues addressed. I think gelcoat may be better as it may stand up better to being locked in ice. Just my thought. Paint would be better for exploring different colors if that is what you are after.
Great to hear you are healing up nicely. Two comments. 1. I'd plug the hole on the top and put an air relief hole on the bottom with a screen to keep out insects while sealing the rest of it with gasket material between the fiberglass. I'm not certain, but I think the regulators need to adjust easily to atmospheric pressure. 2. Since I've got a severely beat up fiberglass top I need to restore on my 1958 Bugeye Sprite, I'd prefer to see your box faired and finished off in gel coat. Just my preference though. I guess the question is: How soon would you need to repaint it versus how soon you would need to polish up the gel coat.
Been a long time since I've seem a video of yours pop up, welcome back! Bra... the no mask, nose 2 inches from your poly kills me (or I guess you 😂), my head is BANGING just watching it! Got to the end. Sand um, paint um, 2oz laminate over your paint, gloss coat. It'll look the goods 🤙
I realize the purpose of this is to show how to make small fibreglass projects. But in this case, a grey plastic electrical enclosure modified to suit would be simpler cheaper and easier. I've used them for all sorts of projects.
You might also spend 3 days trying to find an enclosure not too big, not too small, and still not be satisfied with what you find. And then make a custom one.
That regulator, I think, is supposed to be mounted vertically so that the vent port faces down. If ice is accumulating inside the vent and plugging it, then it won't work. FYI The cover needs to vent so that it does not have any pressure difference in the air inside and out for the regulator to work. Glad you surgery went well, and the recovery is progressing. PS paint it with AwlGrip, and maybe some soft sand for safety!
Hey Andy just a heads up the reason the regulator stops is because there is a small amount of moisture in the NG so insulating the cover is recommended
Spray gelcoat 20 mils thick and sand out the orange peel and polish to a mirror finish. You could make another mold off that part if you wanted also. Wax and pva is typical. If you make a mold off the part that you polished up, you could have the finished side of your part on the outside, if that makes sense haha. also wishing you a full recovery.
I am glad to hear that the surgeries are behind you and that you are recovering well. If you wanted to make a reusable mold you would use a tooling resin. Tooling resin produces a more durable surface. I would generally go with paint. If I wanted a "pretty exterior finish I would have gone with a female mold so you could have put gel coat directly into the mold and then do your build up inside the mold. When you popped your part out of the mold and trimmed it it would be finished. The downside of this approach is that you have to make a really good plug as the first step.
What I should have done initially is what I ended up doing on the larger part; drill a small hole through the part and shoot it with some compressed air lol :-) Popped right out after that!! Probably would have saved the plugs as well :-/
Andy - would adding a pigment to the first layer of unwaxed (plain) gelcoat, followed afterwards by a white waxed layer (so you can easily see where it is/isn't) work? Serious question... just wondering if the pigment would effect the first unwaxed coat to second coat adhesion. Edit ~ So glad to hear you're healing well. I follow your channel like its on-line College courses. lol (seriously) HUGE DOUBLE 👍
I have made many grp items for my sail boat inc all new 6mm thick cockpit combined seats/locker lids, gas lockers for other peoples boats and a recessed throttle/gear change housing to glass into side of cockpit well. The best method is to make a plug (which must have a release angle in its design) from polycarbon or perspex sheeting, or mdf wood as it has a reasonably smooth surface which can be finnished to a high shine using water based aerosol gloss spray paint. Umpteen coats of wax which must be polished off after applying. Then from this plug take a grp female mould by starting with 2-3 coats of unwaxed gelcoat, when the latter is tacky enough to leave a finger print but not a finger dent start laying up. Best method to lay up fast is to have all cloths pre cut to size, using a larger (than cloth size) peice of mdf or a heavy polyethene sheet wet out the sections of cloth and lift them on to the plug and consolidate them on plug using a ribbed paddle roller, apply as many layers as necessary to make a strong mould. If the finnished product is to be concave with the good side in the concave then it can be taken from the plug as long as the outer surface of the plug is finnished to a high sheene, in this case the mould is better made from polycarbon sheeting. I worked for a few months with a company that made grp products for the building trade, imitation chimneys imitation slate porch roofs etc, warm place high sweat loss hard work poor pay!!!😊
thanks for the video just made live bait tank and even with draft angles had to use air to separate i also had trouble glassing four external corners and like you used small pieces of csm and cloth to do corners. So i am nearly finished a 20 ft deck mold and have machined fitting to glass in over anchor well drain to help release with air/water pressure mold will have wax and pva as release agents currently going over mold checking all my release angles aiming for between 2 and 3 degrees
What I noticed was how well the polyester resin bonded to the plywood. When you tried to remove the part and the plug came up it pulled with it a layer of the plywood base board. Tapering the sides of the plug would have made release easier but not worth the extra construction work for a one off. Gelcoat finish 👍
nice! looks good in my opinion. next time maybe try a mold release wax on the mold? tends to reduce damage to the part, and maintain dementions better, least from my limited experience. on the paint, i say do what's going to make for the easy maintenance down the road
you could go 200mph or 20 leagues under the sea with that thing. No kill like overkill! Uncle Sloppy method for lazy people like me: shape a block of floral foam, drill for pipe, and cut as shown. Tape down a sheet of mylar, acetate, or poly (trash bag) to your plywood, tape the pipe stubs to the acetate so they're sealed, radius all edges with some clay, and patchwork-laminate the whole mess with CSM. Gel if you like. Then (effortlessly) peel the part off the board, pull the pipe, and dig out the foam. Trim edges and drill for fasteners and take the rest of the day off. I make all sorts of stuff that way, like hood scoops, coolant-overflow tanks, fan shrouds, inserts so we can put plants solid-bottom pots, and so on. This is in no way a dig on this method; it is valid, especially for production. But it's worth adding to your arsenal for those one-shot deals. I hope this helps other lazy people (like me) get that annoying job done quickly!
someday, much later in life i shall reflect on all my projects and realizing my errors will seek to learn and atone for my many mistakes. on that day, i will search for the highest mountain on which my guru resides and having climbed it after much tribulation i expect to find you there surrounded by used brushes and mixing cups. edit: on the finishing front... you should sand it reasonably smooth, paint it white, then hand your girls some colored sharpies and let them go to town on it. memories!
Since the piece will live in a harsh environment and must work without issues. Apply the most durable products to ensure it doesn't become a continuous item you must Inspect and maintain.
1. Normally Id 3d print something like this, maybe coat the print with a layer of fiberglass for tough weather proofing. 2. Arent you afraid of water collecting in the bottom part? Why the horizontal (and not vertical) split of the parts? (Also, vertical split = 2 equal parts?) 3. How the heck do you not dust down your workshop during sanding of the gelcoat. I do... 😅 Thanks for the info about waxed gelcoat. I didnt know. Great video!
A bit off topic here, but could you recommend a treatment for a carbon fibre spinnaker pole? Mine is second hand and has a bad peeling varnish finish. Ideally I’d want a tough uv resistant finished surface. Thanks
It looks like the plugs had perpendicular sides with out any draft or relief angle built in. Glad to hear, however uncomfortable, you are recovering. As you learned from the first shoulder, there is an end to the process, hang in there.
I don’t know, but is it okay to completely enclose the regular, or does it need a way to vent to atmosphere? If it’s common in your parts to enclose the regular, then I would imagine someone would already manufacture it. Otherwise fair and paint it to match the house.
As a 34 year Natural Gas technician, I would warn that you should check the regulator manufacturer’s instructions before enclosing it in any box. It is designed to work out in the elements. Ice on it shouldn’t affect it as long as it doesn’t block the vent, which should be extended to a point at least 12” above any expected snow level. The vent cap should be pointing downward to prevent rain or snow from getting inside it, as well as having a screen in it to keep out insects.
@@boatworkstoday I sell commercial/industrial boilers, so I am more familiar with much larger gas regulators from Maxitrol, Fischer, and Rockwell vs. the tiny residential gas regulator model like you have. I don’t the make of your regulator. You should look at the label, and Google for the I&O specs. They will tell you if this cover is likely a very bad idea. The vent area is likely the end of the regulator which looks to be 1.0” or so. Small vent holes, likely will ice over, and cause issues. You may be better off building a slight lean-to roof over the gas train.
recovery from injuries / surgery is sped up by avoiding painkillers. when it starts to hurt stop and give it a break until it stops hurting. using pain pills just means push further and aggravate what needs to heal. for finishing the cover, I would say go with the gelcoat, the high gloss nature of it's finish will always make the end result look more professional than even the glossy paint finish does.
Wether paint or gel coat I'm not the guy to ask, but I would definitely sugest you put a drainage hole in the bottom part for any leaking rain water, condensation or the unfortunate case of a leakage in the regulator.
hello, need help, i repaired my car dashboard with two layers of fiberglass, it was cool and dried nicely, but in the end i coated it with one layer of pure resin only, now after one week it's still sticky and i can't sandpaper it. probably i shoud have used gelcoat instead of resin, now? do you suggest me to wait? will it dry up if i wait more? or shall i lay some gelcoat over the resin now? thanks
Spray your gel, Incorporate draft angles, Use primer…And Stoner wax is the real deal, don’t cheap out on coats do all 8, It makes a big difference on finish.
I'm thinking that if you are having issues with 2 feet of snow, then your regulator should be 3 feet off the ground. I'm not sure if the box is large enough, you will have the same issue if it gets covered and isn't vented out the bottom well. I also noticed that your exterior gas lines didn't appear to be galvanized steel, which may be an issue.
I would of moulded these items the other way round, so the gel coat, and nicer finish was on the outside, also, using something like a Pyrex glass dish/bowl, as the mould, also sloped sides, make it a lot easier to get out,
It was a compromise on access / ease of wetting the material out with the various angles. Easier to do from the outside rather than trying to work inside a tight (and small) mold :-)
thinking longterm.. Paint would be the better choice.. Gelcoat will oxidise with UV tanning.. And a huge choice of colors can be chosen from if using paint
Unless you plan on taking off the box every year to give it a buffing so it still looks good I would go with paint. All of the prep in painting is done first. Gelcoat has the advantage in that you correct the flaws if the prep was not perfect.
Hi andy god your recovering well paint the product the same as the walls its a cover mate not a masterpeice ,one question why didnt the release agent work ?
melt bees wax and mix it with cooking oil 50/50 and let it cool down, you'll be left with a soft wax that you can use has a realeased agent, you can use any kind of oil of your choice or change the percentage of the mix, to be softer or harder to apply. I use it for years now
I sent you a video three weeks ago how to pipe the vent above the suspected snow line. Witch would have been a lot easier than you fiberglass box. Make sure you put a hole in your box so the regulator can breathe!!!! 😅
I have a few comments. I am from Massachusetts, and in Mass. the maximum gas pressure that can be legally piped into a structure is 1/2 of a pound. Seeing this regulator installation that you have, tells me that you have more than 1/2 pound going through your structure. That is concerning! My next comment is. The vent on the regulator is NOT to be constricted! Installing this device around the regulator is most definitely constricting the vent. This is also quite concerning! I know some people might say that Mass. has strict rules, well they do (for good reason, to keep people SAFE!!) You may want to contact your gas company for direction. I also just had shoulder surgery five weeks ago. rotator cuff, torn bicep and torn labrum, VERY PAINFUL!! I hope that you are healing well!
This is a very interesting topic but I have to mention something. Speaking personally, the music is so irritating that I could not continue watching this video.
I have used wooden plugs to mold fiberglass parts using paraffin wax as my release agent. I make the plug wit a bit of draft, sand smooth, then melt and brush on 2 coats of the wax. This keeps the resin from adhering to the plug and by heating with a hot air gun to melt the wax allows reasonable ease of release.
Andy. For years I’ve used a sheet of Formica on my bench top to lay up small and larger fiberglass projects. Nothing seems to stick to it. Works better than a sheet of ply. Great videos!! Jim
Sheets of HDPE is a good one too.
I use different thickness and sizes all the time with glass and epoxy work.
IMHO, it's worth its weight in gold.
Thanks for the health update! Glad you are recovering! (Albeit slowly).
I am glad you are back. Good luck with rehab. Wishing you a full recovery 🤗
I was thinking about half way through the making of the plugs, "does he have a little taper on the sides". I guess the answer was "no". That might have helped separating the two. As far as finishing I would do a glass smooth automotive style finish with a little pin striping just for kicks. But seriously whatever is quicker and easier this is a utilitarian piece after all. Keep the good stuff coming.
This is really usefull and i learned a lot. im going to make a headlight fairing for my old motorcycle, and there is nothing in the market that looks like the one in my imagination... im saving this video!
Glad to see you are on the mend! Make sure critters can’t get into your box…
Good luck in your recovery❤
Great work as always. I used your waxed plywood trick to back up a large hole in my Mako center console. It worked a treat. The board even dropped off when the screws were backed out.
Funny this video comes out right when I need to make something similar! Thanks for showing how it's done! The work always looks so good. I'm all for a regular paint job on that.
Glad to hear your surgeries went well and that you've adopted your own rehab plan. One size does not fit all, so good for you!
I always enjoy watching what not to do because i would totally do some of the things i have seen on this channel if you hadn't told me not to!!!! Thanks for everything you produced over the year's
Glad you're doing well 🎉! Love your channel and learning. Because I am probably doing a paint project on all my topsides, and not gelcoat, the more paint content, the better! And loved the idea of letting your kids decorate when done! 😮
Geeeze Andy! It's a cover for a gas regulator located at the back of your house. Smear some bondo on it, power sand it and spray paint it. Done.
You could have just glassed a cardboard box from a recent Amazon purchase. (Hope you realize that regulator may need to vent occasionally.) Love your channel AND your workmanship. Stay well.
Four months into probably a total year long process, i really feel for you. Four surgeries and two months in the hospital started it off for me, beginning on my 62nd birthday. Happy Birthday to me!! Then a rehab hospital for a few weeks to prepare me for home. I was confined to the bed as the surgeries were to both legs. Now four months in i have been told i can start putting weight on my feet. Hurray!
I am told it will take many months to get my strength back. Simply standing is a Hurculian task at this point. Rehab is going to be hard work... probably the toughest in my life. But not wanting to be really stuck in a wheelchair for the rest of my life, work its gonna be. I say all of that to say this - life really is what happens as you are making other plans as John Lennon famously said. Its up to each of us what we do with our lives.
My vote goes for a paint finishing (polished, with the Boatworks Today logo and the whole charming stuff) and I'm very happy to see you back in the trench!! Wellcome back my dear friend!!
First off, great to see you on the mend after surgery.
As for finish, I’d like to see gelcoat. 👍🏼
Happy to hear you are recovering well!
I am just finishing up a similar project. I chose to go with a little bondo cream filler and a high quality sprayed on paint. My project won't be in the sun, so it should last for decades. Do make sure you rodent proof the openings or they will move in. While it is too late to tell you this, a flexible baking pan makes for a great mold. Thanks for the video as always.
thanks for the info. Been watching a while. Finally making my own plugs and molds!
Glad things are going well Andy. You have motivated me to get my shoulder issues addressed. I think gelcoat may be better as it may stand up better to being locked in ice. Just my thought. Paint would be better for exploring different colors if that is what you are after.
Gelcoat for sure. Match the color to the house. If you use paint you will have to paint it again. Keep up with the recovery.
Great to hear you are healing up nicely. Two comments. 1. I'd plug the hole on the top and put an air relief hole on the bottom with a screen to keep out insects while sealing the rest of it with gasket material between the fiberglass. I'm not certain, but I think the regulators need to adjust easily to atmospheric pressure. 2. Since I've got a severely beat up fiberglass top I need to restore on my 1958 Bugeye Sprite, I'd prefer to see your box faired and finished off in gel coat. Just my preference though. I guess the question is: How soon would you need to repaint it versus how soon you would need to polish up the gel coat.
Plus the hole on the bottom would allow any rainwater that made it in to drain rather than stagnate.
Glad to hear that you are recovering!
Would be interesting to see paint be applied to cover fiberglass parts!
Been a long time since I've seem a video of yours pop up, welcome back!
Bra... the no mask, nose 2 inches from your poly kills me (or I guess you 😂), my head is BANGING just watching it!
Got to the end.
Sand um, paint um, 2oz laminate over your paint, gloss coat. It'll look the goods 🤙
Glad you’re doing better. I would say paint over gel coat as it might be easier to make it blend into the house siding
I realize the purpose of this is to show how to make small fibreglass projects. But in this case, a grey plastic electrical enclosure modified to suit would be simpler cheaper and easier. I've used them for all sorts of projects.
Where's the fun in that lol???
You might also spend 3 days trying to find an enclosure not too big, not too small, and still not be satisfied with what you find. And then make a custom one.
@@skipwilson4792
Bingo. 👍
Anything you do is “ANDY GOOD!” 😎
That regulator, I think, is supposed to be mounted vertically so that the vent port faces down. If ice is accumulating inside the vent and plugging it, then it won't work. FYI
The cover needs to vent so that it does not have any pressure difference in the air inside and out for the regulator to work.
Glad you surgery went well, and the recovery is progressing.
PS paint it with AwlGrip, and maybe some soft sand for safety!
You do have to parts there. So obviously both!
Do a gelcoat on one and paint to the other! 😊
Hey Andy just a heads up the reason the regulator stops is because there is a small amount of moisture in the NG so insulating the cover is recommended
Spray gelcoat 20 mils thick and sand out the orange peel and polish to a mirror finish. You could make another mold off that part if you wanted also. Wax and pva is typical. If you make a mold off the part that you polished up, you could have the finished side of your part on the outside, if that makes sense haha. also wishing you a full recovery.
I am glad to hear that the surgeries are behind you and that you are recovering well.
If you wanted to make a reusable mold you would use a tooling resin. Tooling resin produces a more durable surface.
I would generally go with paint. If I wanted a "pretty exterior finish I would have gone with a female mold so you could have put gel coat directly into the mold and then do your build up inside the mold. When you popped your part out of the mold and trimmed it it would be finished. The downside of this approach is that you have to make a really good plug as the first step.
Good to see you back
Congrats on the recovery. IMO fugly and functional are a compatible duo..
I think sanding it down and go over it with fairing compound and paint it with a gelcoat spray would make it look professional.
Finish it with Alexseal paint. Need more content on following the TDS sheets for their systems.
Adding a draft angle into the plug would help with removal, especially on the really deep one.
What I should have done initially is what I ended up doing on the larger part; drill a small hole through the part and shoot it with some compressed air lol :-) Popped right out after that!! Probably would have saved the plugs as well :-/
I vote for gelcoat! And please give us an update on the Bertram. Would love to see that project resurrected and finished... 🙂
Yup, when both wings are functional again ;-) Hopefully by Fall
Great job! I’d finish it with gel coat to avoid future painting.
Andy - would adding a pigment to the first layer of unwaxed (plain) gelcoat, followed afterwards by a white waxed layer (so you can easily see where it is/isn't) work?
Serious question... just wondering if the pigment would effect the first unwaxed coat to second coat adhesion.
Edit ~
So glad to hear you're healing well. I follow your channel like its on-line College courses. lol
(seriously)
HUGE DOUBLE 👍
I have made many grp items for my sail boat inc all new 6mm thick cockpit combined seats/locker lids, gas lockers for other peoples boats and a recessed throttle/gear change housing to glass into side of cockpit well. The best method is to make a plug (which must have a release angle in its design) from polycarbon or perspex sheeting, or mdf wood as it has a reasonably smooth surface which can be finnished to a high shine using water based aerosol gloss spray paint. Umpteen coats of wax which must be polished off after applying. Then from this plug take a grp female mould by starting with 2-3 coats of unwaxed gelcoat, when the latter is tacky enough to leave a finger print but not a finger dent start laying up. Best method to lay up fast is to have all cloths pre cut to size, using a larger (than cloth size) peice of mdf or a heavy polyethene sheet wet out the sections of cloth and lift them on to the plug and consolidate them on plug using a ribbed paddle roller, apply as many layers as necessary to make a strong mould. If the finnished product is to be concave with the good side in the concave then it can be taken from the plug as long as the outer surface of the plug is finnished to a high sheene, in this case the mould is better made from polycarbon sheeting. I worked for a few months with a company that made grp products for the building trade, imitation chimneys imitation slate porch roofs etc, warm place high sweat loss hard work poor pay!!!😊
thanks for the video just made live bait tank and even with draft angles had to use air to separate i also had trouble glassing four external corners and like you used small pieces of csm and cloth to do corners. So i am nearly finished a 20 ft deck mold and have machined fitting to glass in over anchor well drain to help release with air/water pressure mold will have wax and pva as release agents currently going over mold checking all my release angles aiming for between 2 and 3 degrees
Great idea, thanks Andy 👍😁
Impressive! I would have built a large wooden shed style enclosure… easier - but love your videos
What I noticed was how well the polyester resin bonded to the plywood. When you tried to remove the part and the plug came up it pulled with it a layer of the plywood base board. Tapering the sides of the plug would have made release easier but not worth the extra construction work for a one off. Gelcoat finish 👍
nice! looks good in my opinion. next time maybe try a mold release wax on the mold? tends to reduce damage to the part, and maintain dementions better, least from my limited experience.
on the paint, i say do what's going to make for the easy maintenance down the road
you could go 200mph or 20 leagues under the sea with that thing. No kill like overkill!
Uncle Sloppy method for lazy people like me: shape a block of floral foam, drill for pipe, and cut as shown. Tape down a sheet of mylar, acetate, or poly (trash bag) to your plywood, tape the pipe stubs to the acetate so they're sealed, radius all edges with some clay, and patchwork-laminate the whole mess with CSM. Gel if you like. Then (effortlessly) peel the part off the board, pull the pipe, and dig out the foam. Trim edges and drill for fasteners and take the rest of the day off. I make all sorts of stuff that way, like hood scoops, coolant-overflow tanks, fan shrouds, inserts so we can put plants solid-bottom pots, and so on.
This is in no way a dig on this method; it is valid, especially for production. But it's worth adding to your arsenal for those one-shot deals. I hope this helps other lazy people (like me) get that annoying job done quickly!
Great videos. I’d like to see color matched gelcoat.
gelcoat, it will last longer in the elements, glad to hear your doing better and mending....
someday, much later in life i shall reflect on all my projects and realizing my errors will seek to learn and atone for my many mistakes. on that day, i will search for the highest mountain on which my guru resides and having climbed it after much tribulation i expect to find you there surrounded by used brushes and mixing cups. edit: on the finishing front... you should sand it reasonably smooth, paint it white, then hand your girls some colored sharpies and let them go to town on it. memories!
Love that idea!
Finish with gelcoat. Strong and durable af 💪
Since the piece will live in a harsh environment and must work without issues. Apply the most durable products to ensure it doesn't become a continuous item you must Inspect and maintain.
1. Normally Id 3d print something like this, maybe coat the print with a layer of fiberglass for tough weather proofing.
2. Arent you afraid of water collecting in the bottom part? Why the horizontal (and not vertical) split of the parts? (Also, vertical split = 2 equal parts?)
3. How the heck do you not dust down your workshop during sanding of the gelcoat. I do... 😅
Thanks for the info about waxed gelcoat. I didnt know. Great video!
thanks for the videos. I say lets go fairing and gelcoat.
A bit off topic here, but could you recommend a treatment for a carbon fibre spinnaker pole? Mine is second hand and has a bad peeling varnish finish. Ideally I’d want a tough uv resistant finished surface. Thanks
It will work as it is. Coat of paint and all will be OK.
Good stuff as usual, Thanks
It looks like the plugs had perpendicular sides with out any draft or relief angle built in. Glad to hear, however uncomfortable, you are recovering. As you learned from the first shoulder, there is an end to the process, hang in there.
I don’t know, but is it okay to completely enclose the regular, or does it need a way to vent to atmosphere? If it’s common in your parts to enclose the regular, then I would imagine someone would already manufacture it.
Otherwise fair and paint it to match the house.
There will be some small vent holes with a fine mesh screen inside to keep hornets from getting in there :-)
As a 34 year Natural Gas technician, I would warn that you should check the regulator manufacturer’s instructions before enclosing it in any box. It is designed to work out in the elements. Ice on it shouldn’t affect it as long as it doesn’t block the vent, which should be extended to a point at least 12” above any expected snow level. The vent cap should be pointing downward to prevent rain or snow from getting inside it, as well as having a screen in it to keep out insects.
@@boatworkstoday I sell commercial/industrial boilers, so I am more familiar with much larger gas regulators from Maxitrol, Fischer, and Rockwell vs. the tiny residential gas regulator model like you have. I don’t the make of your regulator. You should look at the label, and Google for the I&O specs. They will tell you if this cover is likely a very bad idea. The vent area is likely the end of the regulator which looks to be 1.0” or so. Small vent holes, likely will ice over, and cause issues. You may be better off building a slight lean-to roof over the gas train.
recovery from injuries / surgery is sped up by avoiding painkillers. when it starts to hurt stop and give it a break until it stops hurting. using pain pills just means push further and aggravate what needs to heal.
for finishing the cover, I would say go with the gelcoat, the high gloss nature of it's finish will always make the end result look more professional than even the glossy paint finish does.
Wether paint or gel coat I'm not the guy to ask, but I would definitely sugest you put a drainage hole in the bottom part for any leaking rain water, condensation or the unfortunate case of a leakage in the regulator.
Yup 100% ;-)
Hey Andy, why don't you "bedazzle" the outside finish, ha-ha?
hello, need help, i repaired my car dashboard with two layers of fiberglass, it was cool and dried nicely, but in the end i coated it with one layer of pure resin only, now after one week it's still sticky and i can't sandpaper it. probably i shoud have used gelcoat instead of resin, now? do you suggest me to wait? will it dry up if i wait more? or shall i lay some gelcoat over the resin now? thanks
Spray your gel, Incorporate draft angles, Use primer…And Stoner wax is the real deal, don’t cheap out on coats do all 8, It makes a big difference on finish.
Great video. Since this is a boating channel, could you do it as a boat project, thanks!!!!
I would do gelcoat unless you have the paint that matches the siding of your house
Would a drain hole not be required. You don't want it filling with water somehow?
There will be some small vent holes with a fine mesh screen inside to keep hornets from getting in there :-)
I'm thinking that if you are having issues with 2 feet of snow, then your regulator should be 3 feet off the ground. I'm not sure if the box is large enough, you will have the same issue if it gets covered and isn't vented out the bottom well. I also noticed that your exterior gas lines didn't appear to be galvanized steel, which may be an issue.
can't use galvanized has to be black pipe. technically we get over 20 feet of snow each year so.... :-)
Ok, unsure why zinc would be an issue to keep them from rusting. May be just a municipality or inspector thing, but it's not technically wrong.
Personally, I'd likely put another coat of Gelcoat on it ... sand it smooth and then pain it the same color as the siding
Excellent! Gel Coat please 🙏
Paint would be my choice...because...I would love to see how you do a gelcoat finish...so....gelcoat?
I would of moulded these items the other way round, so the gel coat, and nicer finish was on the outside, also, using something like a Pyrex glass dish/bowl, as the mould, also sloped sides, make it a lot easier to get out,
It was a compromise on access / ease of wetting the material out with the various angles. Easier to do from the outside rather than trying to work inside a tight (and small) mold :-)
Hola
Gracias por tus vídeos , me gustaría que fuera terminación Gelcoat, saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱
thinking longterm.. Paint would be the better choice.. Gelcoat will oxidise with UV tanning.. And a huge choice of colors can be chosen from if using paint
Unless you plan on taking off the box every year to give it a buffing so it still looks good I would go with paint. All of the prep in painting is done first. Gelcoat has the advantage in that you correct the flaws if the prep was not perfect.
Hi andy god your recovering well paint the product the same as the walls its a cover mate not a masterpeice ,one question why didnt the release agent work ?
Gelcoat with a Boatwrks Today logo
melt bees wax and mix it with cooking oil 50/50 and let it cool down, you'll be left with a soft wax that you can use has a realeased agent, you can use any kind of oil of your choice or change the percentage of the mix, to be softer or harder to apply. I use it for years now
I was wondering how the plugs not being tapered would affect things.
I vote for gelcoat
Why did you make the mold inside out? Rough side to the inside
Easier access compared to trying to work the details inside a small mold :-)
Finished with gel coat
I sent you a video three weeks ago how to pipe the vent above the suspected snow line. Witch would have been a lot easier than you fiberglass box. Make sure you put a hole in your box so the regulator can breathe!!!! 😅
It's not about the ease it's about the teaching that's what he's doing
Raptor coat would be easy, and hard wearing.
Gelcoat! 😜
Finish it with Swarovski crystals lol. That'll shock the next guy who comes across it
Baking fiberglass cakes :)
I have a few comments. I am from Massachusetts, and in Mass. the maximum gas pressure that can be legally piped into a structure is 1/2 of a pound. Seeing this regulator installation that you have, tells me that you have more than 1/2 pound going through your structure. That is concerning!
My next comment is. The vent on the regulator is NOT to be constricted! Installing this device around the regulator is most definitely constricting the vent. This is also quite concerning!
I know some people might say that Mass. has strict rules, well they do (for good reason, to keep people SAFE!!)
You may want to contact your gas company for direction.
I also just had shoulder surgery five weeks ago. rotator cuff, torn bicep and torn labrum, VERY PAINFUL!! I hope that you are healing well!
it will still be vented to play nice with atmospheric pressure but the vent side just won't be able to be packed with snow ;-)
PVA ? Isn't that what kids use in school to glue paper and cardboard ?
Paint to match the house siding
Your wife will be happy
Powder Coat???? It can be done but I've not done it.
Love your channel and your work, but man, this project screams 3d printing all day long!
Gelcoat!
Gel Coat!
finish using whatever finish is the most maintenance fee
This is a very interesting topic but I have to mention something. Speaking personally, the music is so irritating that I could not continue watching this video.
different strokes for different folks :-)
Do gelcoat💪💪💪
Fiberglass guy can't just make a wooden box to protect his regulator, paint it a few times, and call it good. ;)