Replace: Pitman Arm - Chevy Tahoe
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2015
- In this video I replace a pitman arm on a 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe. The procedure is similar for Chevy and GMC trucks and SUV's.
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair. - Авто та транспорт
I had an old school mechanic show me a trick on the pitman arm to steering box where after I torqued it down i went to his garage he's friends w my dad and i asked if he could double check it for me and he used a grinder to make a sharp point on his center punch and hit 3 small notches in it to prevent it from backing off. I'm very grateful for his knowledge and I know he's a dying breed ..the work was on my grandfather's 95 Silverado I inherited because of his passing.. almost no rust on the truck God bless old school mechanics Super cool guy and he drives a custom dune buggy!
Glad you explained how it 'normally' goes. OTC makes a different low profile 2 jaw puller, also sold by Mac, that has the longer forcing screw that you can use a gun on. Works really nice on those and S10 4x4s. I usually zip the center link loose, then the box bolts, dump it on its side, then use an 1 5/16th socket on a gun to zap that large nut loose, then use the puller. I also use the gun to tighten the nut to get the new arm as far up the splines and as close to the old marks as possible, because what we found is that over time, if the arm is not far enough up the spines, it puts pressure down on the center link, and will wear out quickly. I also like to use the 90* grease fittings on the new arms.. because people are lazy, and generally won't take down the plastic shield to grease the arm.. Good vid for a common problem!
This is helpful, because I'm worried I'm not getting the Pitman far enough up on the splines. Seems like it should go further. THe last thing I want is that arm coming off. How do you know when you have it far enough up?
Just helped my bro-in-law do his yesterday. His pitman arm was on so tight we had to use a grinder on the eyelet of the arm itself, cut a cannel 90% depth as to not damage the splined shaft, and drive a chisel into the cut to get it to split it open. Easy peasy after twenty minutes of grinding/cutting.
Awesome job, I have been cleaning grease out from under my fingernails for near 40 years. It's really great to see someone else that cares about the job they do and how to treat a vehicle that isn't yours. Thanks.
I had a lot of questions along the way and then you systematically answered them bang bang bang like a boss. Good teachin.
I've watched a number of your repair videos. I would not hesitate to let you work on my vehicles if I lived near your shop. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! Your video save me like two hours of struggling myself and doing it the hard way. Now we got our Tahoe back on the road again things to you. Love your videos! Keep them coming👊
Yes! A break for a change. I know this was months ago but it was still fun to see you breeze through a job.
45 year mechanic. I prefer your videos over others. Thanks for the heads up.
going to be changing my inner and outer tie rods, ball joints and idler and pitman arm on my 96 gmc this weekend, thanks for all your help and instruction, You don't know how helpful you've been to me and I'm sure countless others in repairing our vehicles. My truck has 221000 mile and my wifes 05 caravan has over 300000 and a lot of that is owed to you and your know how and willingness to pass it on.Thank you, Dean Hinesley. Texas
I'm really surprised. With all that experience one would think you would know better than to brag about how well the job is going. Always, always wait till it's done. I really enjoy watching you do all the work as I sit here and eat popcorn. Keep 'em comin'.
tommie293 I know I know but it was going so well haha
Replaced door chimes and phone ringing for lawn mowers and squeaky belts, sounds of summer.. :)
John Vickery Lol yep joys of having the doors up for a few months
Nice find and repair. The ease of this job put a little grin on your face, gotta love it when things go right. Great job on the video in such cramped quarters.
DC Rickerson It was tight but I tried my best :)
I did this exact job about four years ago. It fought me from start to finish. You must be living right Mr O lol. Awesome video as usual.
Nice to see someone who actually knows the proper installation procedure for a cotter pin! Most mechanics don't know or don't bother. Cheers!
Glad to see that you had an easy repair Eric, and it showed on your face how happy you were. Take care....
stuzman52 Oh man your not kidding Terry. Glad to catch a break here and there :)
Someone must be living right, to get that pitman off that easy.
Thanks for added segment on pullers, my life never goes the easy way, and the video very info friendly.I'm sure my '98 K1500 Is identical. I'll have more rust issues with mine, being 500 miles north of you, they really love their salt up here in the winter.
Wow great video, love how you showed every detail! For example showing us how to loosen the steering box. It's easy enough where you could have just said to loosen it up but the fact that you showed it in the video was awesome. It helps us DIYers that's never touched this kind of stuff before Thanks!
Wow that was so easy thank you for making this video I have a 01 Chevy Tahoe I have to replace both pitman and idler arms and im so glad I don’t have to pull the gearbox out I definitely be using your method thank you again
I've never seen them come out that easy! Good job, Great Video!
There is a simple trick that can be used to make removing the pitman arm incredibly easier. I have used it and can assure you that it works. All that needs to be done is to put the pitman arm puller and tighten it down as much as possible. Instead of trying to force it off, after tightening leave the puller arm overnight. When you come back in the morning, it will most likely be pulled off completely. Even if that doesn't happen in rare cases, it will still be much easier to finish removing it. The constant pressure during the night will gradually weaken whatever is holding it on until it falls off. Of course, it does take time. Maybe you could just go work on something else and come back 4-5 hours later and it might still work. I'm not sure how many hours it would take because I did it overnight and the arm was off when I looked at it in the morning.
musicfanclassical I wish I would have read this before ruining my puller and resorting to cutting mine off
Just done the same job on my 98 C1500. Only I replaced the entire steering linkage. Everything except the gearbox. Off to alignment today. Appreciate the video. I had to use the puller.👍
I have a 98 Gmc Suburban it's nice to work on a vehicle with some room isn't it. Been working on a Olds Bravada not much room and who the heck was the engineering genius I'd like to get my hands on him front CV axles that run threw a oil pan? A Problematic vehicle if I ever seen one!!! I'd work on my Old 71 Charger anyday with a Smile on my face lots of room to work with! Love watching your video's you talk clearly and with no BS and going way off track like some of them! Best of luck!
Nice touch with the License Plate at the end of the video. Keep up the good work!!
Glad to see that things went your way for once.
Joseph Costello I know right!?
Been in the business 40 years and I have to say you got lucky. I was in on this job until I saw that "no clearance" and then after the "luck" you still couldn't wiggle that out of there. It's what makes me cuss engineers for building it like that. Anyway great video. The caveat on this is what jobs to take and what to send down to your competitor down the street. I'm never lucky it seems.Best regards,
Lisa
Brings back old memory
Holy cow!!! That's a really nice tool box Eric. I love the blue!!!! I have a snapon double bay its red though
Paul Morales Thanks
You are livin right I guess, that went way to well, nice to get an easy one fer a change, enjoyed the video, all my best to the Family, be safe, have fun, stay busy.
joel mccoin Good to get an easy one i tell ya
Thank you for your video it help me out a lot!
Thanks again from New Mexico!
I used to use a cut off wheel on a die grinder, and cut a slot in the arm being careful not to nick the box, you can't cut all the way through without cutting into the box,but it will cut enough of a slot that you can finish busting it open with an air hammer,yes I know it's extremely tight clearance and doesn't look possible, but it is. Good videos keep up the good work.
Nice job I've never had one go that easy you got lucky
Allyn MacLaren Jr Man your not kidding !
IN the past I have slackened the pitman nut half a turn and then driven the vehicle and made a point of doing low speed sharp turns, that often frees the arm, cheers
Just replaced mine based on the info from this video. Wasn’t quite as easy lol but successful! Thanks for the info !
I was shaking my head when that came out so easy!!said jeesz why that never happend to me!!..great video erick..heyy someone wants to show up in your videos..lol
Stenio Fernandez I know right way to easy. Who is gonna show up?
That was a lucky day, hope you bought a lottery ticket on the way home!
binnsh Should a right lol
This is the best video I've seen a replacing this.. I hope this works on my 2000 Escalade. when I turn slow and sharp the tire jerk and pops. Sometimes driving I have to either at 2 or 10 to keep the truck straight
I liked your video you actually make it look easy appreciate you taking the time to help out thanks
Eric stay with your old "hey there viewers" its much better, its your UA-cam brand. Another great video Eric, learning much. Regards Stewart, Australia.
I love your how to repairs. thanks for the help
Oh, that was easy. My '99 yukon ended up pulling box and cutting off the arm. Puller+heat+air hammer and it was not going anywhere. Nice to see it was easy.
Nice video! I've been working on cars and aircraft for years and really like your style. Good job!
Thanks for the video. About to attempt the pitman as part of front end rebuild on a 1986 C20 2wd. Should be easier than on the 4wd. but having some idea what to expect really helps.
I just did my 98 Tahoe the same way but instead of me and doing my steering box I took the 4 bolts off the sway bar and it came out really easy
budgetwheeler4x4 exactly
Yup. So did i.
Sparta Did you have to undo the links?
You did it without a pitman arm puller?
@@fredricthomas6654 budgetwheeler4x4 is referring to getting the arm out, because of clearance, he already had it free from both ends.
Thank you, this was extremely clear for me.
( Dan H. ) great vid. I always use anti - seize on the splines during reassembly.
It's great that you are passing on your experience to the next generation.Liked the video and buy your neighbour a new mower for his next birthday before everyone sells up and moves home.Sounded like a used 747 jet engine.
Tom OConnor Lol and he mows his 1/25th acre 4 times a week ....
I really like what i am seeing. Food for thought and I am very impress. What i would like to see is changing the bushings on the bottom arm of the L200 Mitsubishi double cab k34. 4d56.
you got to love it when you have an easy one. ☺ good job
+Trace 23 sure do
good video. thank you for making it. glad it went so well.
I pulled on once on an old international scout. It was a bear. I even toyed with the idea to cut the end off and weld a new end on but I thought better of it. Actually did that once though on some 53 buick lever shocks. Those puppies would not budge. Thanks for the video.
Don Guptill Glad you enjoyed, thanks for the stories :)
Is going to save our day tomorrow 💙💙💙
Yeah I just did the pitman arm on my Chevy just like this. Was the hardest wrenching I've ever done that didn't result in breaking something.
Great video, thank you. I've been thinking that they have changed the angle of tapered parts. Have noticed for a couple of years now, that steering parts come apart with a lot less struggle than they once did. Hope that's the case, I'm fixing to do just that job on my own GMC.
A few summers ago I decided to replace every front end part on my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee including the steering box and track bar, left the ball joints original. I took the drag link down attached to the tie rod ends and replaced the tie rod end sleeves so all i did was take a total length measurement and set up the new parts to the same length. Thank God for crows feet for the power steering line on the steering box, the only way to reach it, I replaced the pitman arm too as it was only 15.00 buck range, not worth trying to fight to save a few bucks. When I torqued the nut there was room for a torque wrench so I maxed out my torque wrench at 150 lbs then with a 1/2 breaker I gave about another 1/8 turn so close to the suggested setting. Also replaced all the control arms with fixed length, stock height tubular arms with poly bushings, certainly rides much stiffer now as poly has no absorption.
Track bar installation can be a PITA
That drag link on your video looks like it has been changed recently or at least not original
jim dandy :D Track bars are easy if you know the little trick.
I just did a full suspension rebuild on my 2006 Chevy Avalanche 1500, the pitman arm had to be the most difficult thing to break loose, used a puller tool on it with a breaker bar and it ended up breaking the attachment on the breaker bar, stripped the threads on the puller tool, tried separating it with a picklefork and sledgehammer. And nothing was working. Had to step it up about 10 notches, took an angle grinder to it and ended up cutting a wedge out of the original arm, putting the picklefork into the wedge and with the heat generated from the grinder, striking it a couple times in the wedge caused it to break free, took loosening the castle nut on the idler arm to get the bar to come down far enough to install the new pitman arm. Once it was back on, new inner and outer driver side tie rods were installed. The tire was put back on and now the truck runs great after the alignment.
I just got my Airpro 3/8 drive impacting air wrench. Its really awesome. I can't believe how small it is,you can get into all kinds of places with it. I would definitely recommend contacting Sataman Schmidt to buy one.
Michael Herbert That's what I am saying. I use the crap outta it and it is still going strong. Plus it is pretty cheap for what it is...
I just did this job on an 07 GMC 1500. Everything was on tighter than welding - this job will challenge your religion - the pitman arm was just not going to come off - so being a 71 year old retired wrench this is what you do - take the steering box out - take a 4 inch grinder with a cut off wheel on it and cut off the outside of the pitman arm as close to the splines shaft as possible - put your puller on it and get it tight - then take your 4 in grinder and put a 60 grit flapper grinding disk on it - start grinding the flat you just made with your cutoff wheel towards the splines on the shaft - when u see or hear the pitman arm crack it might come off - if it's still stuck take a chisel and put it in the crack and give it a few wacks - that will cause the pitman to spread ever so slightly and release the splines on the steering box shaft ... just add the 3+ hours book time for the R & R of the steering box to the job ... I'm ordering one of those big air hammers tonight...
You had a really easy ride this time for once! lol another great video
James'sWorld Ahhh finally!
Ordered parts to do my 2001 1500 HD. NOT SURE IF MINE HAS 3 or 4 big splines. I’m praying for the correct part! I hope mine goes this smooth, every bolt I’ve turned on this truck has been like it’s welded on. Great video! Thank u
After changing a few pitman arms myself I always found the steering wheel to be a few degrees off from where it was prior. I assumed that the machining for the splines was just a hair off and was amplified through the steering box to the steering wheel.
Even though a pitman arm has no adjustment like a tie rod or upper control arm (since it's keyed with a larger spline in most cases) I always ended up getting an alignment to recenter the steering wheel.
Nice video Eric, and about time you caught a break. Your face looks like the Cat that got the cream!! Keep up the good work - Rob
One Auto, Well I was surprised that is for sure!
Great job. Thanks for the video
I found the video very helpful .. I'm about to do the same to my Silverado I hope that it goes as easy as that one .. .. I found that I have more room then that one ... thanks for the info....
Getting ready doin the whole shabang , inners / outers along with ball joints and both pitman and idler arms , prob the idler arm bracket too .
Eres el amo brother ! Gracias
You should do a tool box tour/shop tour video!
2:26 jeep inline 6 :) I love that noise
I am going to have to rebuild most of my front end this summer including new gearbox pitman arm idler arm upper control arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints probably won't nothing go smoothly never does on rusty bolts!
It's not fair!!!!!!!!!!! It all came apart so freaking easy!!! I call foul!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the great videos.
You are a frecking Genius!
Thanks for posting this it gave me the piece of mind that my air hammer could be my friend in this job. I know I'll prob be cursing at it but I'm gonna do it like all my other truck repairs I've braved through in the past. Coincidentally I'm changing my power steering line the same day so removing the whole steering box might not be a bad idea in my case. If you have any words of advise feel free to comment but most of all thanks for sharing your experience,
Bobby J with the 07 GMC Sierra 1500 classic
Believe it or not Eric I think this is one of the best videos you've done. I've worked on old UK trucks from the 50's up to the mid 80's and never done a pitman arm /steering box Plus you've showed me the tools I didn't know were made Don't take that as another hint for a tour of your tool box .I've never honestly seen those tools anywhere even when I was an apprentice .I think I lost out on valuable education . As said great video really enjoyed it . You and your family take care. Darren
I have a 98 Tahoe and did this job but everything went smooth however it is a Denver truck so very little to no rust. I was surprised how clean the truck in this video was.
New subscriber. really like your videos. We have a tahoe that needs this repair so I will taking it apart this weekend. But I doubt it goes as easy as your video! :) I look forward to many other videos that you are putting out.
I never had one go anywhere near that easy lol - usually they are pressed on the splines soooo tight. Good for you
get lucky once in a while
is that the same way on a 1999 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 ?
Very well done sir.
Another great video.
Bediasman TY
thanks for video...
Great Video and Job Sir.....
Great video as always! I would love to se a tool box tour
Emin HVAC Bahhh it is not as impressive as some may think. Just a bunch of stuff in a box :)
South Main Auto Repair lol
Thanks for sharing!!
Rick Anderson YW
Must be a super old vid
Didn't use a wrachet wrench, lol.
Your my dude tho.
I refer to your vids when I'm working on anything💯😎👍
Great job thank you
I had an OBS K3500 Chevy that had a death wobble over bumps. Had it worked on just in time, because the mechanic said the Pitman arm nut was so loose, he didn't need a wrench or puller to remove it.
hey, another great trick to get those off is slicing it with a zip disc almost all the way through and then hammering a chisel into the groove until it splits. works great on bearing races too
looks like she was oil undercoated throughtout it's life... likely why stuff came apart nice! Thanks for the video Eric!
or maybe it just had some kinda leak that kept the steering linkage oily lol...
Rick James It's a old Chevy and you know what they say. If there aint no oil under'em then there aint no oil in'em :)
👍👍
I was able to get the pitman off my Mom's blazer without having to use heat. My Impact wasn't strong enough to pull it off with the puller, so I resorted to a 26 inch breaker bar with a pipe.
Doing this next weekend to my Suburban that looks identical to this Tahoe, color and all lol
Think it could have failed due to it being put on so loose if/when somebody replaced it previously? Will it be basically the same in a 92 k3500 im possibly picking one up later tonight that he was told has a bad pitman arm
So guess what I was doing today!
I envy how easy you had it here. I was unable to get the nut off the steering gear, despite heat and a 4' snipe on a breaker bar with upwards of 4000 ft*lbs of torque trying to undo the bloody thing. Oh well! The steering box had some play in it anyway, so now it's DEFINITELY getting replaced...
+rhkips I have had to torch them off in the past that is why this vid was such a miracle lol
Good video
That pittman arm went so well it looked like you had that "kid on Christmas morning" look on your face! LOL
Super random but those pitman arm pullers are super useful at getting stuck subaru ball joints to break free from the lower control arm.
Talking about getting a break on a job … the way I thought of it when I was working flat-rate in a dealership was that the “good” and the “bad” (and even the “ugly!?!) would even out over time - sometimes a job would go really smoothly, everything would fit right and everything worked - awesome - made flat-rate or a little better on one job, then on a later job every freakin’ thing was stuck/broke/bent/didn’t work, so every step took longer than it should - that took more than flat-rate (sometimes by a lot, to do the work correctly). Evened out, over time. I knew some guys who would add extra charges for every sheared cotter pin, buggered nut, and similar stuff - I never did, again, just figuring it worked out over time. I don't know how many others thought that way?
Eventually, however, I quit because the shop never cared if I did it right or not, all they cared about was maximizing $/bay with fewest come-backs (that is NOT the same thing as doing the job right).
What tools do I need? You should start that out at the beginning of the video. Great teaching
I’m doing a 91 Chevy K1500. Hope it works out this easily