My 2000 S10 is the worse of the worst, by the book 📖 it takes 11 hours. You have to take out the seats and the dash. But, someone discovered to tilt the dashboard. After two heater cores in 11 years, I quit! I ran a looped hose on my water pump.
Wow, that’s one of the easiest heater cores to replace! Some other cars would be a nightmare. When using the screw type clamps, I would have to retighten them from time to time.
@@SpotBloodrain my '08 Nitro was very similar although, I didn't have to pull the seats. Also, the dash only had to be pulled back far enough to wrangle the hvac out. I dropped the steering column down, but left the shaft connected. The leaking coolant disolved the rubber seals of the blend doors. I cut new ones from some rubber and used contact cement to glue them on. Hopefully the glue holds.
Great job. Remember those stock hose clamps are made to expand with the heat and cool cycle. If you use them on plastic that heat's up the plastic can crack.
@@1RoadGarage I remember seeing another youtube video somewhere explain that if you replace a spring clamp with a screw clamp, the heat cycles will eventually loosen up the screw and cause a leak over time. So maybe replace it with a new spring clamp when you get a chance. Makes sense to me
Actually, if you double clamp the hose the coolant leak would likely be gone. Just take some sandpaper to the original heater core inlet and outlet heater core tubes and clean up the heater core tubes and reattach the heater core hoses. The original heater core only has a single raised ridge for each inlet / outlet heater tube whereas the new heater core has two raised ridges to prevent coolant leakage (heater hose clamp goes between the two raised ridges). That's the main reason why I left the automotive repair industry, most mechanics are out to make the most profit they can in the least amount of time possible even if they have to lie to the customer. Today most shops won't let a person leave unless they have at least a $2000.00 car repair bill.
Is there a specific place you purchase your ac delco parts from? I’ve been thinking about buying some brakes and am wondering who is the best dealer for ac delco parts? Thanks.
They'd be perfectly usable after some scouring or sanding too. They are aluminum so what we are seeing there is build-up from the coolant. And since dex-cool is orange, its residue can definitely look like rust.
If you are going to replace both the core and the hoses, it makes it easier to do if you put the new hoses onto the new core tubes before you send the core tubes through the firewall. Ditto on the removal. Leave the old hoses attached to the old core. Simply detach the old hoses at the radiator and pull the whole assembly out through the firewall. Then all you have to do is feed the new assembly in through the firewall and connect the ends to the radiator. This way you are doing less "in-place" wrench work.
I have to say this is the first time I have ever heard of replacing a heater core as a PM item. The heater core and pipes should be aluminum so that rust on the heater core pipes shouldn't be the pipe itself. It looks more like gunk and build-up from the coolant that sits between the pipe and hose. Since the coolant is orange, the residue it leaves behind definitely looks like rust. That build-up is probably what was causing your poor seal, and simply sanding or scouring those clean would have been enough to fix that. Then probably flush it back and forth a bit to clear out the core. Beyond that...replace your coolant every few years and you'd get another 26 years out of that original one. BUT...i understand that replacing old parts with new whether it's needed or not is usually a good time...and is a much better time when you get to decide to do it when you want to vs when you have to (after it fails).
Damn I drive a H3 06 hummer. They wanted 600.00. But they wind up replacing the hose clamp for free. But I'm still losing coolant within a month then i have to top off. They did a pressure test and engine past. So I know it's not heads that has gone bad. I got a new water pump and and everything along with cooling system. Cooling system is brand new now. Still having coolant issues. Where is it going. Its annoying 😆😡😡😡😠😠😠. I'm thinking I may need to get a brand new heater core and new hoses.
Once a month you should turn on you’re heater and run it so it circulates new coolant into it. Hence why yo pipes were rusting. Also that worm gear clamp will leak eventually leak. Should have left the original clamp in
Agreed, as much as I hate dealing with factory spring type hose clamps, they work so much better than those screw type!! I always use the factory clamps when possible!
check ,if you not already done so, all the seals around the windows, doors, and the windshield, could possibly even be leaking around your outside side mirrors, most of the time during the winter we damage door seals when it freezes ,then it leaks when it rains,but I truly beleave it was your heater core.
possible leak coming from the damper door under the wiper cowl....i have seen this before....more rain going in that is draining out.....backing up and into the damper door for your heater...
I’m not buying any of that Jimmy. Fact is: You needed a HEATER CORE. Cut and dry. And, that orange color liquid was DEX-COOL or an orange 🍊 with legs took a leak in that channel groove.
He could have checked the coolant levels and easily found out if it's coolant or not. Being down a quart or more would be reeeeallly obvious. He could have smelled it too. Or even done an antifreeze/coolant test on it with a collected sample. This guy is a total joke and just keeps replacing parts until it's "fixed" or "goes away"
@@AgentLokVokun He could’ve pressure tested it. I have a pressure test kit with all types of radiator caps and coolant container tops. It’s simple. This guy doesn’t want to admit that I was right about that being Dex-Cool in that body channel. I might tell him he’s a silly clown 🤡 and unsubscribe
4:47 "As they say, 'Out with the old - in with the new!'" Nice nod to Mr ChrisFix. I've wished for a long time that he'd get an OBS Chevy truck and show me how to fix mine. But that's why I watch your videos. Thank you Mr 1ROAD!
I would keep looking at that screw type clamp. They are not good for water hoses as they will cause another leak. If I were you I would try to get another of the same type of clamp that was on there originally.
Lucky you! The heater core that I replaced seemed like the engineers started with a heater core and built a car around it! For your leak, remove the wiper arms and cowl and check for leaves clogging the air intake and cowl drains. With the windows up and the doors closed, have the blower running on high. Take about a 3’ piece of fuel hose and put one end to your ear. With the other end, go around your windshield and air intakes and anywhere you suspect a leak. When you hear air escaping, you found the problem. The orangish tint could be from decomposing leaves.
On these trucks the air intake for the HVAC system is under the plastic shroud thing that fits around the base of the windshield wipers. I believe there are 2 screws for this plastic shroud that actually protrude through this intake. Mine was actually leaking around these screws, down into the HVAC Blower housing and dripping down into the cab. I recommend taking the shroud off and clean any sticks, leaves, or dirt. Then use some type of sealant to seal around this intake and the screws that go through it. You can easily check for a leak using a water hose.
I'm going to guess the water infiltration is around the windshield. I had an old Pontiac that dripped when driving in a pouring rain, just above the rearview mirror. The rubber exterior seal had dried and shrunk, and the steel around the windshield opening had rusted enough that the water would work all the way around the glass, bypassing the adhesive. Rather than try to reinstall the glass with new rubber I chose to carefully mask the glass and the metal on either side of the rubber strip along both A pillars and the roofline, then cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, then pumped clear exterior silicone caulk into the joints between the rubber and the steel. Once applied, I removed most of the bead with a finger, smoothing it until pretty much flush, then I carefully removed the tape. The tape lifted the edges a little, but spraying it with Windex I was able to feather it back down with a finger. Drove the car for two years with no leaks, even through Wisconsin weather. The best part was the silicone not only sealed the leak, it made the dried out, oxidized, and gray looking rubber shiny and black again.
@@aberobinson1 no, I don't even remember the model anymore. It was an '87 Pontiac econobox, 4 cylinder, 5 speed, two door hatchback... It had about 120k on it when I replaced the clutch, then put new struts, shocks and tires on it. A thousand miles later I was driving through a blizzard and the front tires broke loose, then bit hard and I snapped the crankshaft...
I share you enthusiasm to replace components before they fail! Also, thanks to your videos I decided to install the kill mat inside my 1999 sub. While I was doing this project it was raining outside so I closed all the doors and work inside the vehicle. After a while I notice that there was a drip entering inside the vehicle from the rain on the passenger side. I too am in the midsts of troubleshooting this, but was waiting for this vid to come out first. You should check the drain below the windshield and possibly put a sprinkler on your truck for a while to recreate the rain. This is my next step.
They say its a hole u have to plug. Under the passenger side wiper setting. Every obs style has this issue including mines smh. Im waiting get my truck back so i can try it out
I don’t think that’s easy to do on my 2003 suburban. I think you have to take the entire dash out. That’s one job out of all jobs that I would consider not doing. Great video. Did you notice the extra ring on the ends of the heater core on the new one that the old one didn’t have that might’ve solved the problem with leaking connections. Thanks for posting
You can try a garden hose and let it run on the corners of the windshield. I had a similar leak on my 2001 Chevy suburban and found that the windshield warped ever so slightly over the years causing a small gap in the adhesive. Just to be sure I took the dash half apart and redid my test with the garden hose and saw that at the very corner of the windshield there was water dripping into the cabin. I also had an expedition with the same issue.
You may want to get an original style spring clamp for that hose. The spring style ones can expand and contract as the system heats up and cools down. The screw-type clamp will loosen over time, and leak. Unfortunately you will have to remove that hose again to swap the clamps.
You're lucky that your heater core is that easy to get to. Years back, I had to replace mine in my 1998 Chevy S10. The entire dashboard had to come out to access it and was about a 12 hour job from start to finish.
Jimmy. Almost all the time you provide links. Could you add where you were able to get an OEM Core? I know you use Amazon a bunch and I purchase from your links. I use Rock Auto for OEM as well. A radiator pressurizing kit makes it easy to find leaks. You can make one from a radiator cap and a bicycle pump if you don't want to spend the money for a kit.
Jimmy, I think your leak issue is the same one I had on my 1998 suburban. The water was entering through the outside air intake on the passenger side. Remove the black cowling at the base of the windshield. There should be a section on the passenger side that has a cover about the size of your hand siliconed in place. Remove the silicone with a pick or flat head screw driver. Below that you’ll see the blower air intake which sticks up about 2-3 inches above where the water runs off below the windshield. Run some silicone around the base of square intake and on the four edges of the short walls. Silicone the hand size cover back in place and you should be good.
Thanks Brent. I have some rain coming here in TN so I’m gonna keep an eye and see if I get water in the cab. I’ll certainly look into that, thanks again!
Jimmy, you did a great job. If you take the time to cut that core in half, you'll see you didn't waste your time or money. That gold colored water was not your antifreeze, but rusted water leaking from your core. No one can prove that, but as a fourth grade elementary graduate, I'd bet my lunch money on it. :-)
@@matthewgallivan8575 Ok. I'm up on Ford coolants, not GM. I know what rusty water from a cast iron block looks like and if I could smell it, I could tell you exactly if that water had antifreeze in it.
That was the easiest heater core R&R I've ever seen. Usually half the dash apart. For those not quite as exuberant as Jimmy, you could've used some aluminum oxide sandpaper (for aluminum) to remove that corrosion, clean it well with lacquer thinner, use some "etching primer", nice little spot of aluminum spray paint, a new hose, clamp and walla. The hose started leaking because the corrosion on the tube made space between the hose and tube. But if it's as easy to change as Jimmy's check the price and maybe it's a better route to go new. I had a 66 Chevelle tore half apart years ago. What a nightmare that was. 20+ years ago, mechanics might do 1 heater core in their life and unless they just have to, never want to do another. I'd rather R&R an engine and trans.
A $40 part that cost $400 to replace. Unless you do it yourself but I ain't taking my dash apart because it never goes back as original & rattles. I capped my lines & all good. 02' Blazer ZR2 4x4.
I had a job to replace a heater core once. WHATTA TOUGH JOB!!! Those GM idiots designed it so I had to remove the pass front fender THEN the heater core was extracted thru the firewall into the engine bay. MAN!! Did I learn a bunch of new words on that job! Had a GM engineer walked into the shop as I was fighting that job, I would have gone to jail. !
Hi, from England, UK. You should try replacing the heater core on an old 1975 Rolls-Royce silver shadow one, that is an absolutely MAJOR job, definitely NOT for amateurs!
Yeah. My thermostat stopped working and blew the pipe out of my heater core knocking off a GM plastic clip holding it together. Evaporated coolant came through the air conditioner vents. I felt foolish because I thought the car was more reliable and my wife was laughing because we were rolling with steam billowing out our windows. My thermostat failed at 109,000 or 10 years. 2013 Chevrolet Volt. I am unemployed so I made a wishlist on amazon and my brother got it for me but everyone was surprised I fixed it. I used a crowbar, giant paper clip, box cutter, and the youtubes among the normal tools! I had to choke up the rubber o ring on the heatercore pipe neck while in potiotion. I used the boxcutter blade to roll the rubber o ring into the side walls of the heater core inlets/oulets. I used the boxcutter handle as a wedge to enable the crowbar to folcrum the pipes inplace while closing the GM plasic clips around the pipe and heatercore.
Easy peasy . Not so with the' 95 G-20 van. That job is not here yet. Keeping the right mix of coolant and distilled water will extend the life of coolant components. Like you I changed the radiator in advance. Let's swap out those 25 yr. old parts, cause their going to go soon . Go job.
I had new radiator and intercooler installed couple days later bit of coolant on ground engine didn't over heat any after pressure test heater core hose was culprit any way mechanic bypassed hose didn't want to play with core tricky spot so now no heater in winter better than leak 😮
The leak is probably around the windshield (the pinch welds where the urethane goes is a common spot to rust and rot away) and running down the driver side. The color makes it look like it's been leaking for a while and caused a lot of rust. Other place that could leak like that would be up in the cowl area. There is usually a drain in there that lets the water that collects run down a tube and out by the frame. That tube could be clogged, allowing water to collect and find its way into the cab through a crack in the seam sealer.
The spring hose clamps provide uniform pressure around the hose and are much better and cheaper than the hose clamp you put on it. You'd be better off pulling the hose clamp and replacing it with the old spring clamp.
What would/could be the cause of an LT1 over heating when parking? The car starts overheating fast when I'm slowly manuvering (Few feet forward, few feet back etc) into a parking space Car is fine at all other times Water pump, thermostat, and coolant are all about 1 year old I bled the system Fuses and box LOOKED ok Just put on a new ac delco rad cap Unplugged the WP to test the fans and the drivers side works but NOT the passenger side Neither the AC or the heat hasn't worked for over a year btw
Be sure to use all your "senses" for diagnostics. Jam your finger into that orangeish liquid and then give it a taste, spit it out of course. If its'sweet/bitterish, it's coolant. And for all the shadetree guys out there, NEVER leave used coolant in buckets or pans, dogs and other pets are attracted to coolant and can die horrible deaths for consuming it. Always get used coolant into containers with a sealed lid. Great work.
I know this is old but "I still don't know what the source of that water was" Well, if coolant was intruding via the heater core then so could outside water do the same. At 3:50 there's plenty of space for outside moisture to travel down the same path that the leaky coolant would. I'd have hit the holes with a ton of silicone sealant after replacing the core. It's rated up to 500F, is plyable, can expand and contract, and is not permanent. Though the new HC will probably outlive the rest of the vehicle so a permanent seal probably isn't a bad idea.
Unless you have already fixed that jewel.... if there is a sunroof.... clean drain tubes out. I had a 2006 Jeep Commander that did that. Same color fluid. Turned out to be a stopped up sunroof drian tube.
I just cut my water cooler lines and used one to close the path from the inlet to the outlet. The coolant system runs better then ever. No wasting gas fighting the engine overheating, no shitty heat(or any heat). Thankfully the part of my defrost that sucks out moisture is ran by my a/c which still works.
dude, you FORGOT to refill the heatercore.. all the coolant that you drained out to avoid making a mess when taking out the heatercore NEEDS to be put back in. or you will have air inside the heatercore and wont allow it to reach its maximum heating temperature!!
Ur replacing it because ur seriously anal about ur car....just like me! Lol. 👌 All you really needed to do was flush water(at low pressure) through it and call it a day..Easy core to do... usually it's a pain to even get at...
On my truck the driver's side door doesn't seal unless it's slammed shut very hard, and it may seem shut but allows just enough water to pass through to puddle on the floor, I've had luck rolling the window down and slightly pushing in the top half of the door, bending it towards the cab more just slightly, wouldn't hurt to check and see if your door lines are 100% straight.
Its a seal. - captain obvious. 🤣 but seriously your windshield or door seal. Due to wind and rain. (Hence difficulty to replicate) Or a seal on firewall failure (doubtful)
When you found the water what had you been doing? Had it rained? Had you washed it? Were you running the air conditioner? The former two are failed weather stripping (or worse). The latter is a clogged condensate drain tube. Clean the drain tube and the problem is (probably) solved.
The orange liquid was probably rusty water from experience most of these Chevy trucks leak on the passenger side floor board from the drain getting clogged by the windshield wipers
Thanks for this video. I believe that the orange liquid is in fact coolant and water under the carpet. The view of the firewall from 1:30 to 1:40 certainly does seem to show that the coolant has leaked into the passenger compartment and started down underneath the carpet. Especially with the evidence of the corroded hose, fitting and obvious coolant leak on the engine side of the firewall.
The water is probably from the drain plug being clogged up. The black plastic screen under your wipers has drains on the corners and they get clogged over time from dirt. Had the same thing happen to my 1999 tahoe few years ago when it rain.
I prefer Dodge, but why in the hell did they install the heater core against the inside firewall? I'm not removing my entire dash to fix it, or paying a $Grand$ to have it done. I bypassed the heater core two years ago. Good thing I live in a warm climate .. I can live without it!
But why is this why you don't mess with a heater core? Seems like this is a another incorrectly titled video on UA-cam. And that sucks man because I watch a lot of your videos.
Water in the cab may be from the a/c condenser drain line blocked and the water backing up and dripping inside the cab. Had a 98 Chevy with that problem.
I think this dude is Chris fix. Listen to his pattern and style of talking. 99% same way Chris talk. Maybe he has a voice changer that alter his tone of voice
Heater core is easy as hell to replace in those trucks. Now the AC part, that's a whole different story. If you actually had a heater core leak in the floorboard you would know it because it's very smellable.
When I first bought the truck I had the AC “fixed” at the dealership… whole dash was taken out. New coil. Wasn’t cheap and wish they would’ve done more while in there.
Not sure if it’s similar but I have an s10 and blower motor ducting rusted out and pooled on the floor pan causing more cancer. Was spotless under the truck… never thought to look under the carpet
Yes, newer and smaller vehicles it is a bear! to swap. So wrap your mind around it and focus. Be single minded. say a prayer, light a candle and get to it.
God, when I had to replace the heater core in my old Volvo, it was a royal pain in the butt. Not pull the whole dash pain in the butt, but not far off. Compared to that, this is a cakewalk.
That’s one easy heater core just replaced mine on my 88 Range Rover classic it was a damn nightmare gotta remove the whole center console dash ac condenser bracket and blower motors I hope I never have to do it again for another 34 years 😂
You should have tested the old heater core before you removed it, under pressure that leak probably was worse than you think. No hate, just a thought...
That's the way all heater cores should be located, unfortunately most cars you have to tear the dash out to get to them.👍👍👍
My 2000 S10 is the worse of the worst, by the book 📖 it takes 11 hours. You have to take out the seats and the dash. But, someone discovered to tilt the dashboard. After two heater cores in 11 years, I quit! I ran a looped hose on my water pump.
@@regsmith7604 Chrysler is even worse. 2008 Sebring sedan, requires you to drain the refrigerant and remove the evap coils.
Like every dodge
Ever
It's intentional. They don't want you working on them.
@@disht2 Seems that way, and along with no transmission fluid dipsticks
Wow, that’s one of the easiest heater cores to replace! Some other cars would be a nightmare. When using the screw type clamps, I would have to retighten them from time to time.
All cars should be this way my 2001 jeep wj I had to pull the dash, steering wheel,seats and center console just for the heater core
I have a 95 as well - I need to pull the whole dash apart to fix the mix door. I wish it were as easy as just the heater core...
@@kstricl the blend doors were the worst thing they could have ever put in a car
@@SpotBloodrain my '08 Nitro was very similar although, I didn't have to pull the seats. Also, the dash only had to be pulled back far enough to wrangle the hvac out. I dropped the steering column down, but left the shaft connected. The leaking coolant disolved the rubber seals of the blend doors. I cut new ones from some rubber and used contact cement to glue them on. Hopefully the glue holds.
@@kstricl I'm having major problems with my blend doors on my 98. Replaced the actuators and still chasing gremlins. Have any info on servicing those?
You're lucky that Chevy has easy access for it. Much newer cars have it buried behind the dashboard.
Yup, have to pull the entire dash out to reach it....nightmare job on many cars.
Great job. Remember those stock hose clamps are made to expand with the heat and cool cycle. If you use them on plastic that heat's up the plastic can crack.
Dude, new wrinkle in the brain! I didn’t know that about those clamps! Thanks!
@@1RoadGarage I remember seeing another youtube video somewhere explain that if you replace a spring clamp with a screw clamp, the heat cycles will eventually loosen up the screw and cause a leak over time. So maybe replace it with a new spring clamp when you get a chance. Makes sense to me
Let’s not tell those companies that manufacture radiator flush kits about the plastic cracking!
I have seen new cores fail 3 months after install, there is never a guarantee a preemptive repair will prevent a breakdown.
Actually, if you double clamp the hose the coolant leak would likely be gone. Just take some sandpaper to the original heater core inlet and outlet heater core tubes and clean up the heater core tubes and reattach the heater core hoses.
The original heater core only has a single raised ridge for each inlet / outlet heater tube whereas the new heater core has two raised ridges to prevent coolant leakage (heater hose clamp goes between the two raised ridges). That's the main reason why I left the automotive repair industry, most mechanics are out to make the most profit they can in the least amount of time possible even if they have to lie to the customer.
Today most shops won't let a person leave unless they have at least a $2000.00 car repair bill.
I would have just replaced the hoses.
Hit the truck with your pressure washer and see if it leaks anywhere too.
Wow.. the ease of removing the heater core alone makes this vehicle a keeper!
Is there a specific place you purchase your ac delco parts from? I’ve been thinking about buying some brakes and am wondering who is the best dealer for ac delco parts? Thanks.
Those ends of the heatercore are in extremely good shape considering they've sat there for twenty six years, I'd say.
They'd be perfectly usable after some scouring or sanding too. They are aluminum so what we are seeing there is build-up from the coolant. And since dex-cool is orange, its residue can definitely look like rust.
I would swap out that hose clamp for the OE clamp. The OE clamp will always maintaining that perfect pressure on the hose in heat/cold climate.
If you are going to replace both the core and the hoses, it makes it easier to do if you put the new hoses onto the new core tubes before you send the core tubes through the firewall. Ditto on the removal. Leave the old hoses attached to the old core. Simply detach the old hoses at the radiator and pull the whole assembly out through the firewall.
Then all you have to do is feed the new assembly in through the firewall and connect the ends to the radiator.
This way you are doing less "in-place" wrench work.
Smart move !
I agree with SOKLY, replacing the heater core was unnecessary, IMHO
Good thing it's an easy job, since it's only a temp fix...
Just wait, you'll be doing it again in another 20 years. LOL
You should bring Scott Kilmer your 95 suburban so he can do a review on it he lives in Clarkesville
I was thinking that same thing!!
@@1RoadGarage That would be really cool.
I have to say this is the first time I have ever heard of replacing a heater core as a PM item. The heater core and pipes should be aluminum so that rust on the heater core pipes shouldn't be the pipe itself. It looks more like gunk and build-up from the coolant that sits between the pipe and hose. Since the coolant is orange, the residue it leaves behind definitely looks like rust. That build-up is probably what was causing your poor seal, and simply sanding or scouring those clean would have been enough to fix that. Then probably flush it back and forth a bit to clear out the core. Beyond that...replace your coolant every few years and you'd get another 26 years out of that original one.
BUT...i understand that replacing old parts with new whether it's needed or not is usually a good time...and is a much better time when you get to decide to do it when you want to vs when you have to (after it fails).
I see you figured out what the dexicool colored liquid was from
I have heard that a blocked ac drain can cause water on the passenger floor
Damn I drive a H3 06 hummer. They wanted 600.00. But they wind up replacing the hose clamp for free. But I'm still losing coolant within a month then i have to top off. They did a pressure test and engine past. So I know it's not heads that has gone bad. I got a new water pump and and everything along with cooling system. Cooling system is brand new now. Still having coolant issues. Where is it going. Its annoying 😆😡😡😡😠😠😠. I'm thinking I may need to get a brand new heater core and new hoses.
Thank you so much for this video متشکرم
Once a month you should turn on you’re heater and run it so it circulates new coolant into it. Hence why yo pipes were rusting. Also that worm gear clamp will leak eventually leak. Should have left the original clamp in
Screw type hose clamps get loose... I never use them they always leak...fyi
Agreed, as much as I hate dealing with factory spring type hose clamps, they work so much better than those screw type!! I always use the factory clamps when possible!
check ,if you not already done so, all the seals around the windows, doors, and the windshield, could possibly even be leaking around your outside side mirrors, most of the time during the winter we damage door seals when it freezes ,then it leaks when it rains,but I truly beleave it was your heater core.
possible leak coming from the damper door under the wiper cowl....i have seen this before....more rain going in that is draining out.....backing up and into the damper door for your heater...
I’m not buying any of that Jimmy. Fact is: You needed a HEATER CORE. Cut and dry. And, that orange color liquid was DEX-COOL or an orange 🍊 with legs took a leak in that channel groove.
He could have checked the coolant levels and easily found out if it's coolant or not. Being down a quart or more would be reeeeallly obvious. He could have smelled it too. Or even done an antifreeze/coolant test on it with a collected sample.
This guy is a total joke and just keeps replacing parts until it's "fixed" or "goes away"
@@AgentLokVokun He could’ve pressure tested it. I have a pressure test kit with all types of radiator caps and coolant container tops. It’s simple. This guy doesn’t want to admit that I was right about that being Dex-Cool in that body channel. I might tell him he’s a silly clown 🤡 and unsubscribe
Going to get used to doing that if you keep running dexcool
so those screw clamps will end up leaking need constant tension clamps
So that's what a $1000 job looks like. Mechanics claim this is an 8 hour job.
Its the screws in your wiper cowel. Silicone them.
4:47 "As they say, 'Out with the old - in with the new!'" Nice nod to Mr ChrisFix. I've wished for a long time that he'd get an OBS Chevy truck and show me how to fix mine. But that's why I watch your videos. Thank you Mr 1ROAD!
I would keep looking at that screw type clamp. They are not good for water hoses as they will cause another leak. If I were you I would try to get another of the same type of clamp that was on there originally.
i see you have a worm clamp on that heater hose. those leak. use a constant tension hose clamp. aka a spring clamp. those dont leak.
Lucky you! The heater core that I replaced seemed like the engineers started with a heater core and built a car around it! For your leak, remove the wiper arms and cowl and check for leaves clogging the air intake and cowl drains. With the windows up and the doors closed, have the blower running on high. Take about a 3’ piece of fuel hose and put one end to your ear. With the other end, go around your windshield and air intakes and anywhere you suspect a leak. When you hear air escaping, you found the problem. The orangish tint could be from decomposing leaves.
Back in 95 engineers gave a crap about the guy who has to fix it later.
On these trucks the air intake for the HVAC system is under the plastic shroud thing that fits around the base of the windshield wipers. I believe there are 2 screws for this plastic shroud that actually protrude through this intake. Mine was actually leaking around these screws, down into the HVAC Blower housing and dripping down into the cab. I recommend taking the shroud off and clean any sticks, leaves, or dirt. Then use some type of sealant to seal around this intake and the screws that go through it. You can easily check for a leak using a water hose.
I'm going to guess the water infiltration is around the windshield. I had an old Pontiac that dripped when driving in a pouring rain, just above the rearview mirror. The rubber exterior seal had dried and shrunk, and the steel around the windshield opening had rusted enough that the water would work all the way around the glass, bypassing the adhesive.
Rather than try to reinstall the glass with new rubber I chose to carefully mask the glass and the metal on either side of the rubber strip along both A pillars and the roofline, then cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, then pumped clear exterior silicone caulk into the joints between the rubber and the steel.
Once applied, I removed most of the bead with a finger, smoothing it until pretty much flush, then I carefully removed the tape. The tape lifted the edges a little, but spraying it with Windex I was able to feather it back down with a finger.
Drove the car for two years with no leaks, even through Wisconsin weather.
The best part was the silicone not only sealed the leak, it made the dried out, oxidized, and gray looking rubber shiny and black again.
Was it a Montana van? Because me too
@@aberobinson1 no, I don't even remember the model anymore. It was an '87 Pontiac econobox, 4 cylinder, 5 speed, two door hatchback... It had about 120k on it when I replaced the clutch, then put new struts, shocks and tires on it.
A thousand miles later I was driving through a blizzard and the front tires broke loose, then bit hard and I snapped the crankshaft...
@corey Babcock I've done a lot of fishing on the Fox River/Winnebago pool .
Did 35 years in Milwaukee, now in southern Walworth County.
I share you enthusiasm to replace components before they fail! Also, thanks to your videos I decided to install the kill mat inside my 1999 sub. While I was doing this project it was raining outside so I closed all the doors and work inside the vehicle. After a while I notice that there was a drip entering inside the vehicle from the rain on the passenger side. I too am in the midsts of troubleshooting this, but was waiting for this vid to come out first. You should check the drain below the windshield and possibly put a sprinkler on your truck for a while to recreate the rain. This is my next step.
They say its a hole u have to plug. Under the passenger side wiper setting. Every obs style has this issue including mines smh. Im waiting get my truck back so i can try it out
I don’t think that’s easy to do on my 2003 suburban. I think you have to take the entire dash out. That’s one job out of all jobs that I would consider not doing. Great video. Did you notice the extra ring on the ends of the heater core on the new one that the old one didn’t have that might’ve solved the problem with leaking connections. Thanks for posting
Yes, I didn’t notice till later in the video but I did mention it. Definitely helps with hose placement. I think I need all new clamps though…
8 hours book time to do my 98 F150, insane.
You can try a garden hose and let it run on the corners of the windshield. I had a similar leak on my 2001 Chevy suburban and found that the windshield warped ever so slightly over the years causing a small gap in the adhesive. Just to be sure I took the dash half apart and redid my test with the garden hose and saw that at the very corner of the windshield there was water dripping into the cabin. I also had an expedition with the same issue.
Told ya so. Heater core pin hole.
You may want to get an original style spring clamp for that hose. The spring style ones can expand and contract as the system heats up and cools down. The screw-type clamp will loosen over time, and leak. Unfortunately you will have to remove that hose again to swap the clamps.
Nice to see how simple car repairs used to be. My new car uses a heat pump to heat and cool my interior when it dies its bad news bears.
You're lucky that your heater core is that easy to get to. Years back, I had to replace mine in my 1998 Chevy S10. The entire dashboard had to come out to access it and was about a 12 hour job from start to finish.
Wow, I’d have sold the truck 😂😂
@@1RoadGarage I wish it were that easy. That's why I had to replace it. I was about to put the truck up for sale and it started leaking.
I wish it was still this simple... instead of ripping out the entire dash and half the interior and part of the engine...
I’m telling you, the GMT400 trucks are 💎
Jimmy. Almost all the time you provide links. Could you add where you were able to get an OEM Core? I know you use Amazon a bunch and I purchase from your links. I use Rock Auto for OEM as well. A radiator pressurizing kit makes it easy to find leaks. You can make one from a radiator cap and a bicycle pump if you don't want to spend the money for a kit.
also get rid of the old clamps..... And use new hose clamps...
Yeah I’m definitely going to get all new clamps! Thanks! 👍
Jimmy, I think your leak issue is the same one I had on my 1998 suburban. The water was entering through the outside air intake on the passenger side. Remove the black cowling at the base of the windshield. There should be a section on the passenger side that has a cover about the size of your hand siliconed in place. Remove the silicone with a pick or flat head screw driver. Below that you’ll see the blower air intake which sticks up about 2-3 inches above where the water runs off below the windshield. Run some silicone around the base of square intake and on the four edges of the short walls. Silicone the hand size cover back in place and you should be good.
Thanks Brent. I have some rain coming here in TN so I’m gonna keep an eye and see if I get water in the cab. I’ll certainly look into that, thanks again!
@@1RoadGarage why wait. Take your garden hose and look for the leak😉
@@KRAZYSHAWNJ yes, I have done that and found nothing. I figured I’d wait for a more natural watering from the rain and see if that does it..
Jimmy, you did a great job. If you take the time to cut that core in half, you'll see you didn't waste your time or money. That gold colored water was not your antifreeze, but rusted water leaking from your core. No one can prove that, but as a fourth grade elementary graduate, I'd bet my lunch money on it. :-)
I agree with yoy why it is more orange but his is a 95 suburban and gm started using dexcool on all antifreeze in 95 and it is orange
@@matthewgallivan8575 Ok. I'm up on Ford coolants, not GM. I know what rusty water from a cast iron block looks like and if I could smell it, I could tell you exactly if that water had antifreeze in it.
@@bentnickel7487 yeah it looks similar but gm coolant is that orange color
That was the easiest heater core R&R I've ever seen. Usually half the dash apart. For those not quite as exuberant as Jimmy, you could've used some aluminum oxide sandpaper (for aluminum) to remove that corrosion, clean it well with lacquer thinner, use some "etching primer", nice little spot of aluminum spray paint, a new hose, clamp and walla. The hose started leaking because the corrosion on the tube made space between the hose and tube. But if it's as easy to change as Jimmy's check the price and maybe it's a better route to go new.
I had a 66 Chevelle tore half apart years ago. What a nightmare that was. 20+ years ago, mechanics might do 1 heater core in their life and unless they just have to, never want to do another. I'd rather R&R an engine and trans.
A $40 part that cost $400 to replace. Unless you do it yourself but I ain't taking my dash apart because it never goes back as original & rattles.
I capped my lines & all good. 02' Blazer ZR2 4x4.
Check your evaporator core drain tube. It shares the same space and it would obviously be wet if the tube is stopped up. Even if just a little bit
Yup! Happens all the time and no one thinks to check it. It even fools mechanics and is a cause of people spending big money on unnecessary repairs.
@@erikkarling2176 yup
I had a job to replace a heater core once. WHATTA TOUGH JOB!!!
Those GM idiots designed it so I had to remove the pass front fender
THEN the heater core was extracted thru the firewall into the engine bay.
MAN!! Did I learn a bunch of new words on that job! Had a GM engineer
walked into the shop as I was fighting that job, I would have gone to jail.
!
Put some dye in the coolant and use a UV light, I think you can buy a kit for about $30
Great idea
He could also just LOOK at the coolant level. But that's clearly too complicated.
Hi, from England, UK. You should try replacing the heater core on an old 1975 Rolls-Royce silver shadow one, that is an absolutely MAJOR job, definitely NOT for amateurs!
Yeah. My thermostat stopped working and blew the pipe out of my heater core knocking off a GM plastic clip holding it together. Evaporated coolant came through the air conditioner vents.
I felt foolish because I thought the car was more reliable and my wife was laughing because we were rolling with steam billowing out our windows. My thermostat failed at 109,000 or 10 years. 2013 Chevrolet Volt.
I am unemployed so I made a wishlist on amazon and my brother got it for me but everyone was surprised I fixed it. I used a crowbar, giant paper clip, box cutter, and the youtubes among the normal tools!
I had to choke up the rubber o ring on the heatercore pipe neck while in potiotion. I used the boxcutter blade to roll the rubber o ring into the side walls of the heater core inlets/oulets. I used the boxcutter handle as a wedge to enable the crowbar to folcrum the pipes inplace while closing the GM plasic clips around the pipe and heatercore.
Easy peasy . Not so with the' 95 G-20 van. That job is not here yet.
Keeping the right mix of coolant and distilled water will extend the life of coolant components. Like you I changed the radiator in advance. Let's swap out those 25 yr. old parts, cause their going to go soon . Go job.
"Here's Why You Don't Mess With A Heater Core"
proceeds to mess with heater core and not explain the title
I have 95 G20 van. Trust me, it was no picnic.
Thats easy as hell do an import man then youll be a veteran!!
Haha! Yep, was super easy!!
I had new radiator and intercooler installed couple days later bit of coolant on ground engine didn't over heat any after pressure test heater core hose was culprit any way mechanic bypassed hose didn't want to play with core tricky spot so now no heater in winter better than leak 😮
The leak is probably around the windshield (the pinch welds where the urethane goes is a common spot to rust and rot away) and running down the driver side. The color makes it look like it's been leaking for a while and caused a lot of rust. Other place that could leak like that would be up in the cowl area. There is usually a drain in there that lets the water that collects run down a tube and out by the frame. That tube could be clogged, allowing water to collect and find its way into the cab through a crack in the seam sealer.
The spring hose clamps provide uniform pressure around the hose and are much better and cheaper than the hose clamp you put on it. You'd be better off pulling the hose clamp and replacing it with the old spring clamp.
What would/could be the cause of an LT1 over heating when parking?
The car starts overheating fast when I'm slowly manuvering (Few feet forward, few feet back etc) into a parking space
Car is fine at all other times
Water pump, thermostat, and coolant are all about 1 year old
I bled the system
Fuses and box LOOKED ok
Just put on a new ac delco rad cap
Unplugged the WP to test the fans and the drivers side works but NOT the passenger side
Neither the AC or the heat hasn't worked for over a year btw
Be sure to use all your "senses" for diagnostics. Jam your finger into that orangeish liquid and then give it a taste, spit it out of course. If its'sweet/bitterish, it's coolant. And for all the shadetree guys out there, NEVER leave used coolant in buckets or pans, dogs and other pets are attracted to coolant and can die horrible deaths for consuming it. Always get used coolant into containers with a sealed lid. Great work.
My Audi B7 2. 0 tdi have corosion on pipes. 2 weeks and i'm noware yet. Brakets very hard to change. And aluminium pipes too.
I know this is old but "I still don't know what the source of that water was"
Well, if coolant was intruding via the heater core then so could outside water do the same. At 3:50 there's plenty of space for outside moisture to travel down the same path that the leaky coolant would. I'd have hit the holes with a ton of silicone sealant after replacing the core. It's rated up to 500F, is plyable, can expand and contract, and is not permanent. Though the new HC will probably outlive the rest of the vehicle so a permanent seal probably isn't a bad idea.
Unless you have already fixed that jewel.... if there is a sunroof.... clean drain tubes out. I had a 2006 Jeep Commander that did that. Same color fluid. Turned out to be a stopped up sunroof drian tube.
I just cut my water cooler lines and used one to close the path from the inlet to the outlet. The coolant system runs better then ever. No wasting gas fighting the engine overheating, no shitty heat(or any heat). Thankfully the part of my defrost that sucks out moisture is ran by my a/c which still works.
Wow trhats was pretty easy... my infiniti FX35 is like here hold my beer... lol
Me as a mechanic, you're just scalping a customer. Makes us look bad. Just change those stupid spring clamps with HOSE clamps
dude, you FORGOT to refill the heatercore.. all the coolant that you drained out to avoid making a mess when taking out the heatercore NEEDS to be put back in. or you will have air inside the heatercore and wont allow it to reach its maximum heating temperature!!
Ur replacing it because ur seriously anal about ur car....just like me! Lol. 👌 All you really needed to do was flush water(at low pressure) through it and call it a day..Easy core to do... usually it's a pain to even get at...
On my truck the driver's side door doesn't seal unless it's slammed shut very hard, and it may seem shut but allows just enough water to pass through to puddle on the floor, I've had luck rolling the window down and slightly pushing in the top half of the door, bending it towards the cab more just slightly, wouldn't hurt to check and see if your door lines are 100% straight.
Don't know why the color was like that but if you leaking water most times the evaporater core could of been either leaking or sweating.
Its a seal. - captain obvious. 🤣 but seriously your windshield or door seal. Due to wind and rain. (Hence difficulty to replicate) Or a seal on firewall failure (doubtful)
When you found the water what had you been doing? Had it rained? Had you washed it? Were you running the air conditioner? The former two are failed weather stripping (or worse). The latter is a clogged condensate drain tube. Clean the drain tube and the problem is (probably) solved.
The orange liquid was probably rusty water from experience most of these Chevy trucks leak on the passenger side floor board from the drain getting clogged by the windshield wipers
When I replaced the heater core on my V6 Chevy S10 it was like doing brain surgery. This big SUV looks a lot easier.
The water could be from the HVAC condensate drain being plugged, hose disconnected or split.
Thanks for this video.
I believe that the orange liquid is in fact coolant and water under the carpet. The view of the firewall from 1:30 to 1:40 certainly does seem to show that the coolant has leaked into the passenger compartment and started down underneath the carpet. Especially with the evidence of the corroded hose, fitting and obvious coolant leak on the engine side of the firewall.
The water is probably from the drain plug being clogged up. The black plastic screen under your wipers has drains on the corners and they get clogged over time from dirt. Had the same thing happen to my 1999 tahoe few years ago when it rain.
I think the water leak maybe AC water condensation leaking from the discharge line of the HVAC , and the color could be from the carpet
Wow I have 2007 silverado
Any video I watch on you tube it's a 5hr job buried in dashboard..
I prefer Dodge, but why in the hell did they install the heater core against the inside firewall? I'm not removing my entire dash to fix it, or paying a $Grand$ to have it done. I bypassed the heater core two years ago. Good thing I live in a warm climate .. I can live without it!
My 98 has a factory screw above blower fan in blower housing. It leaked and flooded my truck.
But why is this why you don't mess with a heater core? Seems like this is a another incorrectly titled video on UA-cam. And that sucks man because I watch a lot of your videos.
Water in the cab may be from the a/c condenser drain line blocked and the water backing up and dripping inside the cab. Had a 98 Chevy with that problem.
Why change it?Old parts are better quality. New doesn’t mean better these days. Waste of time I would have just replaced the hose.
I think this dude is Chris fix. Listen to his pattern and style of talking. 99% same way Chris talk. Maybe he has a voice changer that alter his tone of voice
Heater core is easy as hell to replace in those trucks. Now the AC part, that's a whole different story.
If you actually had a heater core leak in the floorboard you would know it because it's very smellable.
When I first bought the truck I had the AC “fixed” at the dealership… whole dash was taken out. New coil. Wasn’t cheap and wish they would’ve done more while in there.
If you have a Kubota RTV 1100 you can buy one about 1/2 that size for 1500.00. Ask me how I know.
the poor truck won't have a chance to break on u.... I go by the saying "If it ain't broke, dont fix it".... I'm not a part chaser person
Not sure if it’s similar but I have an s10 and blower motor ducting rusted out and pooled on the floor pan causing more cancer. Was spotless under the truck… never thought to look under the carpet
I found out a while ago that a 4th gen toyota camry 97-01 used a copper heatet core. Just kinda interesting.
Yes, newer and smaller vehicles it is a bear! to swap. So wrap your mind around it and focus. Be single minded. say a prayer, light a candle and get to it.
God, when I had to replace the heater core in my old Volvo, it was a royal pain in the butt. Not pull the whole dash pain in the butt, but not far off. Compared to that, this is a cakewalk.
Maybe moisture is leaking past a door seal or windshield frame where the orange colored liquid is caused by rust.
That’s one easy heater core just replaced mine on my 88 Range Rover classic it was a damn nightmare gotta remove the whole center console dash ac condenser bracket and blower motors I hope I never have to do it again for another 34 years 😂
You should have tested the old heater core before you removed it, under pressure that leak probably was worse than you think. No hate, just a thought...
9:37 i would use the adjustable clamp instead of fixed clamp on hoses.