In 2020 I inherited 15 acres that had been a centipede grass farm in the early 80's, it had not been touched since the late 80's. It's amazing how this grass has survived and flourished after 40 years on it's own.
I have Centipede grass and I have used a product called Bio Advanced 3-1 pellet fertilizer. I apply it in late March during weeds sprouting up, works great and doesn't burn the grass.
If you were to create a 6 round treatment plan on centipede, what products, and amounts would you choose? Utilizing those products you just mentioned. Would love to see that. And by the way, love your channel. Keep up the good work!
Just got my late summer soil test back. I was a little low in P&K nitrogen was fine. I found a 3-18-18 liquid that I will be putting down on my Atlanta area centipede in the coming weeks. I have found for weed control spot treating changeup has worked wonders for me. It was $53 a pint however I only use 3 tablespoons or 2 gallons of water. It handles lespedeza and yellow wood sorrel as well as a host of other weeds and it is safe for centipede along with my neighbors Zoysia. When when I don't have to worry about overspray! I hope this helps anybody who may have the same problems
Really appreciate your channel and input, new to suburban lawn, especially new to Centipede lawn instead of rural let grow!! In the Lincoln, Talladega area!!
I also agree with all 6 things centipede grass loves. As we near the end of September, the temperatures are gradually cooling, particularly in the nights, lows dipping into the 60s. I've adjusted my watering schedule, as I believe my TifBlair centipede grass seeds have established themselves sufficiently. This year, with the scorching summer we've experienced, my utility water bill skyrocketed due to the extensive watering required. Most of the bare patches in my lawn have successfully filled in, with the exception of a few stubborn areas that seem resistant to growth. I've tried various approaches, including applying sand, peatmoss and compost and checking the pH levels in those specific spots. Interestingly, the most robust growth seems to occur around my pine trees, but the pH levels fluctuate between 6 and 7 all over in the front yard. Is there anything I should be putting down right now? Lots of Leaves and Weed Seeds... I will just keep bagging.
My son’s yard runs to damp soil.Lost areas to bare patch over winter. Can your soil be too damp to grow centipede. Areas in sun are fine. The bare areas are Not overly shaded. Help with bare areas…
In coastal Alabama they put centipede grass sod down on top of clay, rocks, and beer bottles (from the guys who built the houses) and everyone buying them up has dogs and kids. May not be the best grass to use, but due to the heat and humidity down here there's probably not much else to use
I@@CentipedeCentralLawnCareI have lived in coastal AL my entire life. Centipede and St. Augustine are the grasses that have naturally been in lawns for decades.
Yes I typically like doing an iron/micronutrient app 1-2 times per year. Usually during summer for a little color pop. Get chelated iron and follow label instructions. Usually a little nitrogen included with the iron helps uptake.
Good morning is September 24 I live in Irmo South Carolina I was wondering if you can give me recommendations of what I should be doing to my yard for October I have centipede grass with some weeds been following you for a couple years now. Love your help. Thanks so much. Have a good day.
There is a product called Vantage that is supposed to work and be safe on centipede although I have not tried it. I have small patches of Bermuda and it’s not a problem - yet. The best general purpose herbicide on centipede is probably Celsius or Fertilome Weed Free Zone (also called Speedzone Southern). I’ve also heard Change Up is good but haven’t tried it yet.
Very busy year, missed my fertilizer application and also no atrazine applications. I have some spots of chamber bitter that I want to attack. I realize we are towards end of growing season, but wanted to ask if anything I can do now to help for rest of year and for next year to get this chamber bitter controlled? Live in Panhandle
I used atrazine in February as recommended (south MS) seems to have had no effect on chamber bitters at all. I used dye And thought I had good coverage. Any thoughts?
Great channel! Could you share your thoughts on dealing with Poa Annua? I heard you say centipede doesn't do well using pre-emergence. I've tried some weed killers to no effect. I've been spot treating with vinegar. It definitely does the job in 24 hours but concerned about damage to the centipede. On top of that, it's taking forever to apply. Any help appreciated.
Atrazine is great for poa annua and safe on centipede. Another great herbicide for centipede is Celsius or Fertilome weed free zone. Thanks for watching
if I use the Lowe's StaGreen 16-0-01 fertilizer in 20-pound bags, how many pounds of nitrogen is in that one bag? My centipede is 6000 square freet. ThankS!
To calculate how much nitrogen, multiply the bag weight by the percentage. If 16% of your 20 pound bag is nitrogen, then 20 x 0.16 = 3.2 lbs of nitrogen in the entire bag. If you want to put down 1 lb of nitrogen for each 1000 sq ft, then that bag would cover 3,200 sq ft of turf. If you want to put down 0.5 lbs of nitrogen, then that bag would cover 6,400 sq ft of turf. Hope this helps.
@@teej0813 Thanks! I guess that means my lawn has almost enough nitrogen for the year. (based on those calculations, each 1000 sq ft has received almost 1 pound so far this year)
@@S_Paoli 1 lb per 1000 sq ft per season is recommended often. Seems to be a safe target. But as I understand it, the right amount of N depends on your soil. Nitrogen will leech out faster in sand than it will in a rich soil. So a rich soil requires less nitrogen. And with Centipede, the less, the better. My lawn has a mix of soil and sand, and I've had success with 0.75 lbs per season. Another thing to keep in mind is timing. Be careful about fertilizing late in the season... especially if you're using a slow-release fertilizer. Hope this helps.
@@teej0813 in my area, the centipede grass starts to turn brown around end of October and become dormant a few weeks after that. Is there anything that I need to do before that happens? This is my first centipede lawn. Thanks!
@@S_Paoli I can tell you what I do. I'm in coastal South Carolina. No fertilizer (I use slow release) after July. Then pre-emergent (with care!) in late Sept / early Oct. I also do a soil test around Dec so I can plan for next season. Also, @CentipedeCentralLawnCare does a great job in this video covering fall steps and pre-emergent... ua-cam.com/video/oGeWWbAg86Q/v-deo.html
I tried this in March. Used 1/2 the recommended dosage. It burned the hell out of the lawn.I was so pissed.All we have down here in NC are grasscutters. No landscapers that can help you understand what a lawn needs.@@CentipedeCentralLawnCare
At first no because it does do some damage to the stolons. But if you have a thatch problem or compacted soil it’s great to do. The best time to do it is during growing season May-July
I’m getting ready to apply potassium and some humic acid(in Savannah, Ga). Is it too early/late? And when do you recommend putting the liquid dethactcher down?
@@CentipedeCentralLawnCare I’ve got another question for you as far as fall pre emergent goes, is this the time to apply and what would you recommend using right now.
No one has been able to help our pitiful so-called lawn. Pure sandy soil. Bare spots galore!! Trugreen failed with weed control. Chickweed and sand burs. Among many non stop weeds. Ugh! Im lost with this lawn. Burn it maybe!! Lexinton, SC. New to southern soil issues. thank you all.😊
Sandy soils are tough. You could top dress with peat moss or scatter some granular Humic to see if that helps hold onto water a bit more. With bare spots you want to make sure you are not over fertilizing which these companies usually do. And no dimension or prodiamine pre emergent
In 2020 I inherited 15 acres that had been a centipede grass farm in the early 80's, it had not been touched since the late 80's. It's amazing how this grass has survived and flourished after 40 years on it's own.
I have been a sub for about 4 years and your info on Centipede grass is right on the money and accurate. Keep up the good work!
Much appreciated!
I have Centipede grass and I have used a product called Bio Advanced 3-1 pellet fertilizer. I apply it in late March during weeds sprouting up, works great and doesn't burn the grass.
If you were to create a 6 round treatment plan on centipede, what products, and amounts would you choose? Utilizing those products you just mentioned. Would love to see that. And by the way, love your channel. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the positive feedback! I may do a video on that
Just got my late summer soil test back. I was a little low in P&K nitrogen was fine. I found a 3-18-18 liquid that I will be putting down on my Atlanta area centipede in the coming weeks. I have found for weed control spot treating changeup has worked wonders for me. It was $53 a pint however I only use 3 tablespoons or 2 gallons of water. It handles lespedeza and yellow wood sorrel as well as a host of other weeds and it is safe for centipede along with my neighbors Zoysia. When when I don't have to worry about overspray! I hope this helps anybody who may have the same problems
Yeah I’ve heard good things about Change Up, I need to try it out!
I have been using the simple lawn brand products Iron and humic
Really appreciate your channel and input, new to suburban lawn, especially new to Centipede lawn instead of rural let grow!! In the Lincoln, Talladega area!!
I also agree with all 6 things centipede grass loves. As we near the end of September, the temperatures are gradually cooling, particularly in the nights, lows dipping into the 60s. I've adjusted my watering schedule, as I believe my TifBlair centipede grass seeds have established themselves sufficiently. This year, with the scorching summer we've experienced, my utility water bill skyrocketed due to the extensive watering required.
Most of the bare patches in my lawn have successfully filled in, with the exception of a few stubborn areas that seem resistant to growth. I've tried various approaches, including applying sand, peatmoss and compost and checking the pH levels in those specific spots. Interestingly, the most robust growth seems to occur around my pine trees, but the pH levels fluctuate between 6 and 7 all over in the front yard. Is there anything I should be putting down right now?
Lots of Leaves and Weed Seeds... I will just keep bagging.
You could put down some Potassium and carbon (granular Humic acid) going into Fall. No nitrogen this late. Thanks for watching
Very helpful video!
I’m late to this party. I’ve been babying my centipede since I moved in.
Welcome!
My son’s yard runs to damp soil.Lost areas to bare patch over winter. Can your soil be too damp to grow centipede. Areas in sun are fine. The bare areas are Not overly shaded. Help with bare areas…
👍Centipede doesn't like water puddles😔 I have a low spot💧 thank you from Ms.
Yep me too and my lawn takes a drop near front by the street.
In coastal Alabama they put centipede grass sod down on top of clay, rocks, and beer bottles (from the guys who built the houses) and everyone buying them up has dogs and kids. May not be the best grass to use, but due to the heat and humidity down here there's probably not much else to use
Yeah it’s usually cheaper by the pallet too
I@@CentipedeCentralLawnCareI have lived in coastal AL my entire life. Centipede and St. Augustine are the grasses that have naturally been in lawns for decades.
My centipede is yellowish except where the dog pees. Can I use the hose sprayer ironite to make it all greener.
When do you recommend applying iron and how far apart? Also, and what will be a good percentage or quantity?
Yes I typically like doing an iron/micronutrient app 1-2 times per year. Usually during summer for a little color pop. Get chelated iron and follow label instructions. Usually a little nitrogen included with the iron helps uptake.
I agree with most of your list. Should be 7 things. My top three is 1. Sun light 2. Water 3. Mowing.
Thank you for all the help on lawn care 🙏🙋♀️
Good morning is September 24 I live in Irmo South Carolina I was wondering if you can give me recommendations of what I should be doing to my yard for October I have centipede grass with some weeds been following you for a couple years now. Love your help. Thanks so much. Have a good day.
Thanks, focus on building soil with carbon (Humic acid) and you can do a potassium feeding. No nitrogen this late
How can you eliminate Bermuda from Centipede grass? What is the best general purpose herbicide that is Centipede tolerant?
There is a product called Vantage that is supposed to work and be safe on centipede although I have not tried it. I have small patches of Bermuda and it’s not a problem - yet. The best general purpose herbicide on centipede is probably Celsius or Fertilome Weed Free Zone (also called Speedzone Southern). I’ve also heard Change Up is good but haven’t tried it yet.
Wish you would show the grass while explaining.
Very busy year, missed my fertilizer application and also no atrazine applications. I have some spots of chamber bitter that I want to attack. I realize we are towards end of growing season, but wanted to ask if anything I can do now to help for rest of year and for next year to get this chamber bitter controlled? Live in Panhandle
Best post emergent for chamberbitter is Celsius. To help prevent it next year try atrazine in May and June
I used atrazine in February as recommended (south MS) seems to have had no effect on chamber bitters at all. I used dye And thought I had good coverage. Any thoughts?
Thanks for another video
Damn. I was mowing at around 3 inches tall at most. 😢
I'll be glad when I can get the hell back out of the south for several reasons but I'm sick of babysititng grass.
Great channel! Could you share your thoughts on dealing with Poa Annua? I heard you say centipede doesn't do well using pre-emergence. I've tried some weed killers to no effect. I've been spot treating with vinegar. It definitely does the job in 24 hours but concerned about damage to the centipede. On top of that, it's taking forever to apply. Any help appreciated.
Atrazine is great for poa annua and safe on centipede. Another great herbicide for centipede is Celsius or Fertilome weed free zone. Thanks for watching
So a 15-0-15 analysis would do or a 12 or 16-4-8 ??
15-0-15 is good. Try to stay away from Phosphorus (middle number)
Great information.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you from Arkansas
Thanks for this content! Do you prefer to bag clippings, mulch, or side discharge? Just started maintaining my own lawn and would appreciate the help!
Prefer to bag to help hopefully reduce spreading weed seeds all over the yard. Thanks for watching.
What state are you located in? very helpful video
I’m in AL. Thanks!
if I use the Lowe's StaGreen 16-0-01 fertilizer in 20-pound bags, how many pounds of nitrogen is in that one bag? My centipede is 6000 square freet. ThankS!
To calculate how much nitrogen, multiply the bag weight by the percentage. If 16% of your 20 pound bag is nitrogen, then 20 x 0.16 = 3.2 lbs of nitrogen in the entire bag. If you want to put down 1 lb of nitrogen for each 1000 sq ft, then that bag would cover 3,200 sq ft of turf. If you want to put down 0.5 lbs of nitrogen, then that bag would cover 6,400 sq ft of turf. Hope this helps.
@@teej0813 Thanks! I guess that means my lawn has almost enough nitrogen for the year. (based on those calculations, each 1000 sq ft has received almost 1 pound so far this year)
@@S_Paoli 1 lb per 1000 sq ft per season is recommended often. Seems to be a safe target. But as I understand it, the right amount of N depends on your soil. Nitrogen will leech out faster in sand than it will in a rich soil. So a rich soil requires less nitrogen. And with Centipede, the less, the better. My lawn has a mix of soil and sand, and I've had success with 0.75 lbs per season. Another thing to keep in mind is timing. Be careful about fertilizing late in the season... especially if you're using a slow-release fertilizer. Hope this helps.
@@teej0813 in my area, the centipede grass starts to turn brown around end of October and become dormant a few weeks after that. Is there anything that I need to do before that happens? This is my first centipede lawn. Thanks!
@@S_Paoli I can tell you what I do. I'm in coastal South Carolina. No fertilizer (I use slow release) after July. Then pre-emergent (with care!) in late Sept / early Oct. I also do a soil test around Dec so I can plan for next season. Also, @CentipedeCentralLawnCare does a great job in this video covering fall steps and pre-emergent... ua-cam.com/video/oGeWWbAg86Q/v-deo.html
In one of your videos you use Sta-Green fertilizer, are you still using it? I'm going to try it this year.
Haven’t fully decided yet but it’s a great fertilizer (16-0-10)
I tried this in March. Used 1/2 the recommended dosage. It burned the hell out of the lawn.I was so pissed.All we have down here in NC are grasscutters. No landscapers that can help you understand what a lawn needs.@@CentipedeCentralLawnCare
Does centipede like aerating?
At first no because it does do some damage to the stolons. But if you have a thatch problem or compacted soil it’s great to do. The best time to do it is during growing season May-July
I’m getting ready to apply potassium and some humic acid(in Savannah, Ga). Is it too early/late? And when do you recommend putting the liquid dethactcher down?
Perfect time now for potassium and Humic. The dethatcher works best in spring when microbial activity is peaking (usually from May-June)
Thanks so much!
@@CentipedeCentralLawnCare I’ve got another question for you as far as fall pre emergent goes, is this the time to apply and what would you recommend using right now.
No one has been able to help our pitiful so-called lawn. Pure sandy soil. Bare spots galore!! Trugreen failed with weed control. Chickweed and sand burs. Among many non stop weeds. Ugh! Im lost with this lawn. Burn it maybe!! Lexinton, SC. New to southern soil issues. thank you all.😊
Sandy soils are tough. You could top dress with peat moss or scatter some granular Humic to see if that helps hold onto water a bit more. With bare spots you want to make sure you are not over fertilizing which these companies usually do. And no dimension or prodiamine pre emergent