Just did the upgrade on a E91 xDrive, your video helped a lot 👍 I also had to remove the stiffening plate and the fan in order to get enough access. The charge pipe's upper clip was easily removable with the lower air duct off.
Anyone considering this installed I recommend it. Car definitely feels less laggy and as a bonus you get the awesome "blow off"/"whoosh" sound, though I have Eventuri intake on me. Took 4 hours and they charged 246,- for the job.
This video helped me tremendously. Originally I attempted it and bailed. I watched this video a few times, and worked the courage to attempt it again. A few things for people that are going to attempt this: I used a 3/8 stubby torx bit, I believe a t25, to remove the Allen heads holding on the diverter valve to the block. The torx bites the Allen heads and makes for an easier removal when cutting through all the dirt and grime that has settled in the allen. 2:The 5" flex extension is an absolute must. 3: Remove the the passenger wheel to get more of a visual on the diverter. 4: orient the DV so the electrical connection is pointing to the 11'clock and the connector will not obstruct a visual of the "hard to see Allen" that sits at the 1 o clock. 5: I had more trouble putting it all back together than taking it apart. I recommend a strong magnet pen to align the new Allen's in their hole. 6: don't this job outside if you can manage, the job took me 9 hours and it started raining for the last three lol!
Awesome tips! It took me a long time too. I had to reassemble the car midway through once I got into some troubles and wasn’t sure if I could get it done. I believe I finished getting my car back together at 2:00am on a work night after starting on the weekend. It is a challenge for sure and doing it the first time is a feeling out process. If I had to do it again, I think it would go a lot quicker.
There are traditional options like tapping into the boost side of the intake and using a boost gauge. My JB4 pulls boost pressures from the ECU. If there are error codes on the ECU that indicate excessive boost, that may be a sign of a tune.
The intake makes a big difference (mine is aluminum which also I believe is a little louder than plastic). The factory air boxes are designed to hide/muffle the sounds.
If you consider a perfectly good stock DV compared to the GoFastBits DV, I would say no noticeable gains in acceleration. One might be able to say the opening and closing of the GoFastBits valve is faster so maybe on a micro level there is a small improvement to response. The benefit of the GoFastBits unit is that it will hold boost better and can be pushed to higher boost levels. If the engine is stock and had a normally operating OE DV, you won’t see much if any performance gains. The GFB units let’s you push boost levels higher assuming you have the supporting mods to do so.
Could be a few things. Anytime you exceed the factory boost levels, there is a good chance of getting codes. You could have a dirty mass air flow sensor. I don’t know your setup, but a BOV is typically venting to atmosphere. The N55 uses the diverter valve to recirculate and monitor airflow. Venting to atmosphere reduces the airflow in the intake and leads the ecu to increase fueling and results in high AFRs. Again, not knowing your setup you may not need a BOV.
@@IconGarage what’s happen if you forgot to put the O-ring on could it throw a code? Or if the O-ring it came with wasn’t used during install? I believe I found my problem
I know this is an old video, but I am having an issue that I think is exactly this. in your video at 13:22 I can hear the same "grinding/rubbing" noise before the blowoff that I am hearing, and wondering if you know what that is? Is that just the OEM BOV gone bad? I am likely going to get the diverter valve upgraded anyway but wanted to check to see if you knew if that particular sound is "fixed" after the upgrade.
I think what you hear is fluttering as the OE diverter valve is losing boost. It is electronically controlled so it varies boost pressure and I think it is fighting a little bit with the increased pressure, but in general, I do think it is the combination of trying to run 15 psi of boost on a part designed for 9 psi (with 80k miles or so on it) is the issue. I do think that sound went mostly away with the GFB upgrade.
Turbo flutter can happen, often coming off of hard acceleration you build up excess pressure before the throttle body forcing air back through the turbo (basically reversing the air flow temporarily). Generally speaking it is not ideal and excessive surge pressure could damage the turbo. Usually a BOV is installed to prevent this. Depends on the setup.
@@IconGarage i have a feeling that the spring is to hard (I think a got a fake eBay gfb), at hard boost or low boost it's the same stututu sound.. thank you for you’re respond and sorry for my bad english
No worries man! Your English is fine to me. Yeah, the way BMW diverter valves work, they basically open when no boost is needed. Aftermarket force the valve to stay shut up to the spring pressure. I know the gofastbits version has two options on how to make the spring work. But I think this really just changes throttle response.
@@IconGarage big thank you, now I know how it work but I still scared of the result because If I compare to your video I know that mine sound very weird, and it was a nightmare to put it in place 🥵
Thanks for pointing me here from your first parter. Man i don't know if it's because I don't have a lift or what, but even with the TIC pipe removed, and the water pump unbolted, I could def see the bolts, but it's hard for me to get to the harness to unclip it. Even if i did, I just can't get a good grab on the DV to pull it out with confidence .
To pull the wired connection, I was able to reach that from directly below. It’s a squeeze and pull type connection like others around the engine bay. Once the bolts are out, the DV basically falls out. I pulled the DV out from directly below where it mounts. I don’t think a lift is a must, but I think it helps a ton. This is a challenging install, but only because of access. I wish I had a magical tip but it just takes patience and the right combo of tools to reach the bolts.
@@IconGarage I really appreciate your quick responses. Now when you say you reached from below, does that mean you removed the transmission skid plate? I suspect that's my problem, I didn't do that. (Edited to clarify which skid plate)
I did have my steel reinforcement plate off at one point during the process. I think you can definitely see the DV and have a pretty decent space to reach up. But I know you can reach it going up between the control arms too. It’s a tight squeeze but can be done. Taking off the reinforcement plate does give you more access from below. I probably wasn’t clear about that in my vids.
You wouldn’t necessarily need a tune for an upgraded diverter valve, tho it may throw codes like “blow off plausibility” because you are modifying the function. I already had a tune on my car so I did not notice any difference in regards to the tune other than being able to turn the boost up a little more.
Good video, I liked it. Also, you learned the hard way to always buy quality ball hex bits, because otherwise they will round the hex bolt and leave you stuck.
I think you will have some of the same troubles working around the all wheel drive system, but the coupes will have a little more room due to the longer engine bay. The diverter valve should basically be the same.
Icon Garage thanks also is there anything blocking it cause I can’t visually see it is it on the driver side or passenger side and is it closer to the front of the vehicle
I don’t think you can see it without taking out the intercooler and charge pipe or at least disconnecting it so it can hang down. As you can see in my video, it is a pain to get to with the x-drive. It’s on the right hand side below and in front of the turbo.
I don’t have the stock air filter box and piping. For maximum sound, I went with an AFE aluminum setup with a cone filter. Aftermarket intakes really open up the flow of air. The stock DV also dumps 100% of the boost when off throttle so it does make quite a bit of noise.
@@IconGarage Thank you for your answer! I’m just wondering if the dv also gets louder with a bigger filter or just the intake noise. but I think I will upgrade anyway..xD
PIA installation on n55. Cutting an Allen Key and connecting it to a 1/4" socket with flexible extension to ratchet works well to get the hidden bolt out. Removing pipe from intercooler also helps get tiny bit more clearance.. overall would have been easier if I knew exactly what I know now after doing it lol.
Hey did you manage to fix the boost leak ? Am having problems with mine car was really fast now it’s almost stock power turbo target at 16 and only getting 10 psi
I believe so. I haven’t data logged recently, but when I did it after the install, I was hitting 14 to 15 psi on pulls. If you haven’t flashed the factory ecu, there could be interference at times. I’ve had unexplained cut outs under heavy throttle and all I can think is it’s a factory sensor and ecu issue. Doesn’t happen a lot but every once and a while.
Icon Garage my car used to hit over 16 psi now recently the car has been very slow, data showing car only making 10 psi I have tried smoke testing the car but found no leaks now going on the direction of changing the diverter valve hoping that will fix the problem
It is a weak link and if your car has been running 16 psi and has a decent amount of mileage, there’s a good chance the OE DV is worn out. If anything it is insurance and preventative maintenance to go ahead and swap it. It helped me.
Similar if you have an after market intake. Diverter valve modulates the pressure so instead of a “pop” of pressure like on a BOV, the diverter valve bleeds the pressure off over a short time. On a stock intake you probably won’t hear anything. I have an aluminum afe intake and it makes all the noises.
I have not done this on the E9x chassis. I’m sure it will be very similar as you have the N55 engine. I had a E92 X-drive and I think there is a little more working room with the coupes.
The DV itself does not directly add power. If you are boosting significantly above the stock boost (7 to 9 psi), then the upgraded DV will hold higher boost levels. The factory DV is rather weak. The added benefit of this DV is better throttle response. The boost isn’t entirely dumped as soon as you let off the gas. It’s a pain to install on an X drive car, easier on RWD. It’s worth the upgrade if you have plans for higher power.
It is possible but would be custom work and probably not advisable. Your boost is controlled by the diverter valve and MAF, so I am not sure what bov would do unless you defeat the diverter valve. This will require custom tuning.
Hey is yours a 335i xDrive? Would this diverter valve be fully compatible with an xDrive car because on the website it doesn't mention any compatibility with an n55 f30 335i xDrive. Please let me know how it worked for you in the long run because I have a boost leak and I need this diverter valve. Thank you!
Yes I have the Xdrive. The DV is the same as long as you have the DV for that engine. The install is much more involved when you have the xdrive due to reduced access. No issues to date. Still holding boost.
Nothing related to this install, however, I do have other tuner codes. If you are running higher than stock boost, it may throw a code depending on your tune. The JB4 shows BOV Plausibility code due to the higher boost. A backend flash (on my to do list) would take care of this.
I installed one on mine, man it was tuff!!! Thanks for all the advice!!🙏👍 after mine was installed I noticed I was getting a code for a jammed closed blow off valve (2c90) I was wondering if you had the same problem?
Awesome video! This definitely helps me a lot in deciding if I want to finally tackle this mod. Question for you, do you have any datalogs showing before and after? I am curious if this mod helped hold boost at higher rpm (up past 4500rpm up to redline). I know stock pwg turbo tapers crazy hard and it sucks but did this help hold any more boost at all up there? Thanks!
Awesome video and very informative. Also with that being said... for someone who is interested in installing the GFB DV+ on their F30 and wanting a shop to do the install. Typically how much would you say it cost to get this part installed?
I’d say a shop would charge 4 to 6 hours of labor. So maybe $500 to $750 + cost of parts. If it is rear wheel drive, maybe 2 to 4 hours. Hard to say as shops vary so much with their rates. If you take it someplace that has done the DV before, they should be the most efficient at doing it.
Icon Garage Icon Garage thanks for they reply. I’m still debating if I want to get the DV+ for my F30. And yes my car is rear wheel drive. For the most part I pretty much have every single bolt on, on my F30 and this is one of the last mods that I haven’t done. Just curious if it would be worth it!
I’d say long term it is. Eventually the stock DV will get weak especially if you are running higher boost levels. I have no complaints after 3 weeks. The car seems punchier and it is one less thing to worry about failing.
Hey so i did this horrible install yesterday took me two days! Let me tell you know this is a two man job, if you don't want to remove the water pump. I did this install on jack stands and you HAVE TO UNSCREW FROM THE TOP!!!! I was trying to do it from the bottom but it is impossible to reach the screws. If you take the intake off and the turbo plastic covering you can reach the plug easier. But its still a pain in the ASS!!!!!!
LOL! I don’t think I could be paid enough to do this on someone else’s car. Next time it won’t be my daily and I can take more of it apart and say screw it when I get stuck.
Glad you got it!!
Thanks Bryan!
Just did the upgrade on a E91 xDrive, your video helped a lot 👍
I also had to remove the stiffening plate and the fan in order to get enough access. The charge pipe's upper clip was easily removable with the lower air duct off.
Anyone considering this installed I recommend it. Car definitely feels less laggy and as a bonus you get the awesome "blow off"/"whoosh" sound, though I have Eventuri intake on me. Took 4 hours and they charged 246,- for the job.
Switzerland?
12:45 sound
You can definitely hear the boost holding for longer than stock should = Power
This video helped me tremendously. Originally I attempted it and bailed. I watched this video a few times, and worked the courage to attempt it again. A few things for people that are going to attempt this: I used a 3/8 stubby torx bit, I believe a t25, to remove the Allen heads holding on the diverter valve to the block. The torx bites the Allen heads and makes for an easier removal when cutting through all the dirt and grime that has settled in the allen. 2:The 5" flex extension is an absolute must. 3: Remove the the passenger wheel to get more of a visual on the diverter. 4: orient the DV so the electrical connection is pointing to the 11'clock and the connector will not obstruct a visual of the "hard to see Allen" that sits at the 1 o clock. 5: I had more trouble putting it all back together than taking it apart. I recommend a strong magnet pen to align the new Allen's in their hole. 6: don't this job outside if you can manage, the job took me 9 hours and it started raining for the last three lol!
Awesome tips! It took me a long time too. I had to reassemble the car midway through once I got into some troubles and wasn’t sure if I could get it done. I believe I finished getting my car back together at 2:00am on a work night after starting on the weekend. It is a challenge for sure and doing it the first time is a feeling out process. If I had to do it again, I think it would go a lot quicker.
Oh man. This is wild. Glad you got it done!
Another great and informative video.
Is there a way to see boost pressure in a 2014 M235i? I'm trying to see if it's tuned
There are traditional options like tapping into the boost side of the intake and using a boost gauge. My JB4 pulls boost pressures from the ECU. If there are error codes on the ECU that indicate excessive boost, that may be a sign of a tune.
I would like to know wit installing GFB's , has the unwanted LAG (low rpm) reduced considerably?
Not really. The DV helps hold boost. The turbo itself has a bigger impact on lag. I don’t think the lag is bad on these engines.
I have installed the GFB DV+ in my F31 320i N20, I cant hear the „wosh“ Sound.
Maybe i Need a Sports Intake?
The intake makes a big difference (mine is aluminum which also I believe is a little louder than plastic). The factory air boxes are designed to hide/muffle the sounds.
I know it may sound a little irrelevant, but do you see any difference in acceleration, say 0-60 or 60-130 times?
If you consider a perfectly good stock DV compared to the GoFastBits DV, I would say no noticeable gains in acceleration. One might be able to say the opening and closing of the GoFastBits valve is faster so maybe on a micro level there is a small improvement to response. The benefit of the GoFastBits unit is that it will hold boost better and can be pushed to higher boost levels. If the engine is stock and had a normally operating OE DV, you won’t see much if any performance gains. The GFB units let’s you push boost levels higher assuming you have the supporting mods to do so.
I installed a bov on my 335 and it threw a code for P0172., could this relate to my bm3 tune. Is something really wrong or do I just need to reflash?
Could be a few things. Anytime you exceed the factory boost levels, there is a good chance of getting codes. You could have a dirty mass air flow sensor. I don’t know your setup, but a BOV is typically venting to atmosphere. The N55 uses the diverter valve to recirculate and monitor airflow. Venting to atmosphere reduces the airflow in the intake and leads the ecu to increase fueling and results in high AFRs. Again, not knowing your setup you may not need a BOV.
@@IconGarage I have stage 2 AGG bootmod3 tune with a BMS cold air intake , now a BOV..
@@IconGarage what’s happen if you forgot to put the O-ring on could it throw a code? Or if the O-ring it came with wasn’t used during install? I believe I found my problem
I know this is an old video, but I am having an issue that I think is exactly this. in your video at 13:22 I can hear the same "grinding/rubbing" noise before the blowoff that I am hearing, and wondering if you know what that is? Is that just the OEM BOV gone bad? I am likely going to get the diverter valve upgraded anyway but wanted to check to see if you knew if that particular sound is "fixed" after the upgrade.
I think what you hear is fluttering as the OE diverter valve is losing boost. It is electronically controlled so it varies boost pressure and I think it is fighting a little bit with the increased pressure, but in general, I do think it is the combination of trying to run 15 psi of boost on a part designed for 9 psi (with 80k miles or so on it) is the issue. I do think that sound went mostly away with the GFB upgrade.
I just install mine, but I have turbo flutter sound like on the n20, but why? Someone can explain, I’m a bit scared
Turbo flutter can happen, often coming off of hard acceleration you build up excess pressure before the throttle body forcing air back through the turbo (basically reversing the air flow temporarily). Generally speaking it is not ideal and excessive surge pressure could damage the turbo. Usually a BOV is installed to prevent this. Depends on the setup.
@@IconGarage i have a feeling that the spring is to hard (I think a got a fake eBay gfb), at hard boost or low boost it's the same stututu sound.. thank you for you’re respond and sorry for my bad english
No worries man! Your English is fine to me. Yeah, the way BMW diverter valves work, they basically open when no boost is needed. Aftermarket force the valve to stay shut up to the spring pressure. I know the gofastbits version has two options on how to make the spring work. But I think this really just changes throttle response.
@@IconGarage big thank you, now I know how it work but I still scared of the result because If I compare to your video I know that mine sound very weird, and it was a nightmare to put it in place 🥵
Thanks for pointing me here from your first parter. Man i don't know if it's because I don't have a lift or what, but even with the TIC pipe removed, and the water pump unbolted, I could def see the bolts, but it's hard for me to get to the harness to unclip it. Even if i did, I just can't get a good grab on the DV to pull it out with confidence .
To pull the wired connection, I was able to reach that from directly below. It’s a squeeze and pull type connection like others around the engine bay. Once the bolts are out, the DV basically falls out. I pulled the DV out from directly below where it mounts. I don’t think a lift is a must, but I think it helps a ton. This is a challenging install, but only because of access. I wish I had a magical tip but it just takes patience and the right combo of tools to reach the bolts.
@@IconGarage I really appreciate your quick responses. Now when you say you reached from below, does that mean you removed the transmission skid plate? I suspect that's my problem, I didn't do that. (Edited to clarify which skid plate)
I did have my steel reinforcement plate off at one point during the process. I think you can definitely see the DV and have a pretty decent space to reach up. But I know you can reach it going up between the control arms too. It’s a tight squeeze but can be done. Taking off the reinforcement plate does give you more access from below. I probably wasn’t clear about that in my vids.
I'd really like you to test the performance aspect of the Turbosmart VR9 if possible.
My 15' f30 is stock and installed the DV, however im not getting and flutter.
I can’t always get mine to flutter. Somewhat hit or miss. Might also depend on other mods.
Hey do you need a tune for a upgraded diverged valve or would that only be needed if I was switching to a blow off valve?
You wouldn’t necessarily need a tune for an upgraded diverter valve, tho it may throw codes like “blow off plausibility” because you are modifying the function. I already had a tune on my car so I did not notice any difference in regards to the tune other than being able to turn the boost up a little more.
Good video, I liked it. Also, you learned the hard way to always buy quality ball hex bits, because otherwise they will round the hex bolt and leave you stuck.
For sure. I have 3 sets of ball head bits and I am pretty sure all 3 fit differently.
Broke one off in a poly lock rocker arm nut. Absolute Bitch to remove
I have a 2011 335i xdrive coupe how similar will it be it also has the n55 in it
I think you will have some of the same troubles working around the all wheel drive system, but the coupes will have a little more room due to the longer engine bay. The diverter valve should basically be the same.
Icon Garage thanks also is there anything blocking it cause I can’t visually see it is it on the driver side or passenger side and is it closer to the front of the vehicle
I don’t think you can see it without taking out the intercooler and charge pipe or at least disconnecting it so it can hang down. As you can see in my video, it is a pain to get to with the x-drive. It’s on the right hand side below and in front of the turbo.
How is the stock one even so loud? Do you use OEM air filter?
I don’t have the stock air filter box and piping. For maximum sound, I went with an AFE aluminum setup with a cone filter. Aftermarket intakes really open up the flow of air. The stock DV also dumps 100% of the boost when off throttle so it does make quite a bit of noise.
@@IconGarage Thank you for your answer! I’m just wondering if the dv also gets louder with a bigger filter or just the intake noise. but I think I will upgrade anyway..xD
PIA installation on n55. Cutting an Allen Key and connecting it to a 1/4" socket with flexible extension to ratchet works well to get the hidden bolt out. Removing pipe from intercooler also helps get tiny bit more clearance.. overall would have been easier if I knew exactly what I know now after doing it lol.
For sure! Definitely not a job I look forward to doing again, but learned a lot of what to do and not to do doing it.
Can you still put a bov on it
May i know what are the tools that i need to install the dv+?
Check out the links in the description for some of the more specific tools. Otherwise I used standard sockets and torx bits. Lots of extensions.
Hey did you manage to fix the boost leak ? Am having problems with mine car was really fast now it’s almost stock power turbo target at 16 and only getting 10 psi
I believe so. I haven’t data logged recently, but when I did it after the install, I was hitting 14 to 15 psi on pulls. If you haven’t flashed the factory ecu, there could be interference at times. I’ve had unexplained cut outs under heavy throttle and all I can think is it’s a factory sensor and ecu issue. Doesn’t happen a lot but every once and a while.
Icon Garage my car used to hit over 16 psi now recently the car has been very slow, data showing car only making 10 psi I have tried smoke testing the car but found no leaks now going on the direction of changing the diverter valve hoping that will fix the problem
It is a weak link and if your car has been running 16 psi and has a decent amount of mileage, there’s a good chance the OE DV is worn out. If anything it is insurance and preventative maintenance to go ahead and swap it. It helped me.
Do diverter valves make the same noise than BOV?
Similar if you have an after market intake. Diverter valve modulates the pressure so instead of a “pop” of pressure like on a BOV, the diverter valve bleeds the pressure off over a short time. On a stock intake you probably won’t hear anything. I have an aluminum afe intake and it makes all the noises.
Any ideas how similar the e90 xdrive would be to the f30? I’ve got a 2011 335
I have not done this on the E9x chassis. I’m sure it will be very similar as you have the N55 engine. I had a E92 X-drive and I think there is a little more working room with the coupes.
How hard is this to install on a 328i?
Check out Kies Motorsports video on the install (posted about 3 days ago).
Is there any power difference on this, holding boost high rpms? I have a 13 f30 335i too with bm3 running the e30 bootmod.
The DV itself does not directly add power. If you are boosting significantly above the stock boost (7 to 9 psi), then the upgraded DV will hold higher boost levels. The factory DV is rather weak. The added benefit of this DV is better throttle response. The boost isn’t entirely dumped as soon as you let off the gas. It’s a pain to install on an X drive car, easier on RWD. It’s worth the upgrade if you have plans for higher power.
Is it possible to install bov on aftermarket charge pipe in f30 335i?
It is possible but would be custom work and probably not advisable. Your boost is controlled by the diverter valve and MAF, so I am not sure what bov would do unless you defeat the diverter valve. This will require custom tuning.
Dont do it man
Hey is yours a 335i xDrive? Would this diverter valve be fully compatible with an xDrive car because on the website it doesn't mention any compatibility with an n55 f30 335i xDrive. Please let me know how it worked for you in the long run because I have a boost leak and I need this diverter valve. Thank you!
Yes I have the Xdrive. The DV is the same as long as you have the DV for that engine. The install is much more involved when you have the xdrive due to reduced access. No issues to date. Still holding boost.
@@IconGarage okay thank you for the feedback I'm gonna have to grab it and try to install it then! Also subscribed!
have error code？
Nothing related to this install, however, I do have other tuner codes. If you are running higher than stock boost, it may throw a code depending on your tune. The JB4 shows BOV Plausibility code due to the higher boost. A backend flash (on my to do list) would take care of this.
@@IconGarage Will this intermittent code reduce power?
No. It’s ignored.
I installed one on mine, man it was tuff!!! Thanks for all the advice!!🙏👍 after mine was installed I noticed I was getting a code for a jammed closed blow off valve (2c90) I was wondering if you had the same problem?
No on the code. Did you oil the piston of the diverter valve? Error codes can be weird. I do get the BOV plausibility error.
I did oil the piston 👍 thanks 🙏
Awesome video! This definitely helps me a lot in deciding if I want to finally tackle this mod.
Question for you, do you have any datalogs showing before and after? I am curious if this mod helped hold boost at higher rpm (up past 4500rpm up to redline). I know stock pwg turbo tapers crazy hard and it sucks but did this help hold any more boost at all up there?
Thanks!
I will have to look and see what logs I have saved. I should have some from before. If I have them I will try to put them in a graph.
Awesome video and very informative. Also with that being said... for someone who is interested in installing the GFB DV+ on their F30 and wanting a shop to do the install. Typically how much would you say it cost to get this part installed?
I’d say a shop would charge 4 to 6 hours of labor. So maybe $500 to $750 + cost of parts. If it is rear wheel drive, maybe 2 to 4 hours. Hard to say as shops vary so much with their rates. If you take it someplace that has done the DV before, they should be the most efficient at doing it.
Icon Garage Icon Garage thanks for they reply. I’m still debating if I want to get the DV+ for my F30. And yes my car is rear wheel drive. For the most part I pretty much have every single bolt on, on my F30 and this is one of the last mods that I haven’t done. Just curious if it would be worth it!
I’d say long term it is. Eventually the stock DV will get weak especially if you are running higher boost levels. I have no complaints after 3 weeks. The car seems punchier and it is one less thing to worry about failing.
Icon Garage well I guess you convinced me I’ll get one lol.
Hey so i did this horrible install yesterday took me two days! Let me tell you know this is a two man job, if you don't want to remove the water pump. I did this install on jack stands and you HAVE TO UNSCREW FROM THE TOP!!!! I was trying to do it from the bottom but it is impossible to reach the screws. If you take the intake off and the turbo plastic covering you can reach the plug easier. But its still a pain in the ASS!!!!!!
LOL! I don’t think I could be paid enough to do this on someone else’s car. Next time it won’t be my daily and I can take more of it apart and say screw it when I get stuck.
Should’ve recorded with stock airbox
I took my stock box off years ago. I suspect there would be nearly no noise from the diverter valve.
Your channel is dead now. You should have focused all of your time and money on the RX7
Cool
Don’t listen to that twat, go back to working on BMW.
THATS NOT NICE!!! F30 content--will never end---RX7---are not for everyone!!