Yes it was but well worth it especially this time of year in Florida. It's nice having an air conditioned workshop to work in every day. Thanks for watching.
How is this holding up? Still no condensation issues? I had spray foam in my previous building and absolutely hated it. I’m looking to go this route next time.
It’s working great no condensation issues. I installed T1-11 siding over the insulation and installed a Mr. Cool mini split inside my workshop and everything has worked perfect. My only regret was not doing this years ago. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop legendary thanks for the update man! Such a hard topic regarding insulation for these buildings so much different information. If you get some time you should toss up an update video.
Extendable razor knife that you can adjust to the thickness of the board works for me. I don't even measure. I just line the board up where I need it to go and cut along the edge I need to make fit.
Hey Woody, No I'm very pleased with how it came out. It was a huge improvement, just wished I would have done it sooner. Below is a link to my update video after two years. Thanks for watching! ua-cam.com/video/nUxA2vu1pUQ/v-deo.html
Hello. Thanks for the info and videos. Just curious why did you have the ridge vent put in? I seen only one other person do that. They did it for condensation. If that is why you did does it work?
Yes, for condensation which works plus it allows the heat inside the building to exit through the ridge vent making the building more energy efficient. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@cae2024 The gap is about one and a half to two inches. The ridge vent is galvanized metal and was installed when they installed my metal building and roof.
Chad you can check out my workshop update video link below where I detail how the roof ventilation works around the 9:30 minute mark. ua-cam.com/video/nUxA2vu1pUQ/v-deo.html
It depends on if your trying to keep the radiant heat in or out. In hot climates like Florida you should face it out to reflect the radiant heat from entering your workshop. In cold climates like Michigan you should face it in to reflect and keep the radiant heat in the workshop. Hope that helps. Thanks
What about the weight of the plywood on the roof framing. I'm not sure where you are located maybe you don't have to worry about snow loads and stuff so plywood weight doesn't factor into anything else
Good video! Going to install the same Insul-Board in my RV trailer. My board is 1.5" thick with radiant barrier on one side. Does the radiant barrier face the interior or exterior?
I do and it works great! I installed a 24K BTU Mr. Cool unit and it has no problem cooling it in the middle of summer in Tampa, FL. Below is the A/C video installation. ua-cam.com/video/OZQ2DIrG38c/v-deo.html
Thanks for a great video. I’m considering purchasing a property that has a similar building w/ a roll up door. I presume there is no way to insulate that door?
Hey Robert you can insulate the roll up door opening the same as the walls. I built a barn door to conceal my roll up door and insulated to barn door. I just open the barn doors to access the roll up door. Below is a link to that video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/ChRPvp3KVQQ/v-deo.html
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop For the ceiling, where you used 1" of EPS Insulation, are those custom cut and sits on the lips of the purlins? Then you proceeded to tape where the foam sits on the purlin lips as well as where each piece of foam meets another piece? At about 6:21, how did you secure those 1x6 cross board between the metal posts for your wood framing? I can see how you rest the board above in between the angled metal braces for trust. Just can't figured out how you get the bottom piece of wood framing to stick to the wall.
@@JP-xd6tb So my ceiling has 2 1/2" metal trusses with 2" purling on top of the truss and metal roof decking screwed to the purlins. In the 2" purlin cavity I installed the 1" insulation and it sits directly on top of the trusses leaving a 1" air gap between the insulation and roof decking. Then I installed 2" insulation between the roof trusses friction fit for a total of 3" insulation in the ceilings. Yes, I used metal HVAC tape at all the joints. I also installed some 1X furring strips between the trusses just in case the insulation started to sag. For securing the wood framing I used L brackets and self tapping metal screws. You can check out my wall prep video which goes over the internal wall framing. The L bracket installation is around 10:40 in the below video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching and let me know if you have anymore questions. ua-cam.com/video/uDVfU9XPcxk/v-deo.html
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop Thanks for the quick reply! I'm surprised you have a 2" deep purlins/hat channel. I think mine's only 1.25" or so. Just started putting up .75" polyiso that I had bought last year before the price rise, yet again. I'm barely getting .5" air gap. Crossing fingers that it works. I'm debating on if I should do 2nd layer of foam like you did. My building is not 4' OC with metal posts/trust so wedging/friction it in like yours might not be as easy. Then there is the furring strip issue. Screwing to metals up so high is something I'd like to avoid. I assume you don't have wood framing through out the building and only certain parts? Btw, I think you linked the wrong video, but I was able to find your wall framing video. Very informative videos. Thank you and will be watching more.
My shop is 25'x30' with 10' high walls. It took 65 sheets of insulation at $27/sheet for approximately $1,750 and worth every penny! I just installed a DIY Mr. Cool unit and everything is working great. Especially during this heat wave in the middle of July in Central Florida.
Thank you for the video, it's very helpful! I notice you have plywood on the wall behind you. What thickness did you put up? I'm gathering as much information as I can. I have the same style of building. If you have any advice about wiring, it would be appreciated. Point me in the right direction.
I used 1/2" T1-11 siding. I did a project video on the installation process, see below link. I'll also send you a link to some of the electrical wiring. On my channel I have videos on my complete shop renovation where I transformed my metal building into a rustic workshop. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. Hope all this helps and thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/QAQE_0ikIyg/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/oJIfVMwFCRQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/pLjeGJF7S-s/v-deo.html
Hey I have the same garage...I'm actually honing to use polyisco foam board with 1 inch gap Im in NY state so winter's are cold and summer's hot Company recommends to leave air gap which increase r rating for the board with foil facing outwards Did you have any condensation issues where sir gap is? That's my only concern
No, I haven't had a condensation issue. I have about an inch gap and here in Florida I get enough air circulation to evaporate any moisture that might occur. I faced to foil backing outward to reflect the latent heat out of the workshop. If I lived up North I might would consider facing the foil backing inward to retain the latent heat inside the workshop.
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop yeah I hope so I'll put 2 mini splits for heat and ac I think air gap would help Idk about which way to face foil they recomend to face it outwards to make heat barrier and it will retain heat with proper heating...atleast that how they build houses in NY
Hey Rob, It was approximately $3K for the walls and ceiling. I was optimistic at first, but I once it was complete I could feel a considerable difference in the temperature. I'm located in central Florida where we have extreme heat and combined with the metal walls and ceiling it was always hotter inside the building than outside. After installing the insulation it was the opposite. In the summer it was approximately 10 degrees cooler inside than outside and just the opposite in the Winter, it would be warmer inside than outside. For me it was worth the investment because in the Summer I could only work in my workshop until about 11am after that it was just to hot. Combined with installing a MR. COOL mini split system, the workshop is now a conditioned space and I can work year around in a 75 degree environment. The cost for the mini split was about $2,500. See link below to that video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/OZQ2DIrG38c/v-deo.htmlsi=S4EI2zgesrf_tSrB
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop Great to hear, we're in Melbourne Australia. Temps in our little 20' X 20' X 8' Zincalume shed can easily get up to 40+C in Summer . . way too hot to do any work in, let alone have a few cold beers in. Greatly appreciate your reply too ! Thanks mate.
I’m in the process of putting half inch foam board between my metal roof decking and the top of the truss. Do you think that will be enough or is it necessary to put 2” under that?
Hey George, It depends on a lot of factors including you're geographic location. Down here in Florida I installed 1" rigid insulation between the roof decking and top of the truss and 2" rigid insulation between the top and bottom of the roof truss for a total 3 inches and an R-value of 10. If you live in a milder climate you might could get away with less. Thanks!
I live in illinois and it gets in the high 90’s in the summer and we get single digits in the winter so we get a bit of everything. I’ll consider doing the 2” under my .5” later down the road. I’m also considering the blue Tex roll out stuff just for the ceiling.
@@FishingRandomPlaces That's a good choice. I was planning on doing the same. If the rigid insulation wasn't enough. I was going to put blown or batt fiberglass insulation in the attic space. I installed a MR. COOL mini-split system last month and so far I'm pleased with how efficient and cool it is in the workshop in the middle of Summer.
I did a similar thing in my building. Mine is 36'x40'. I have a 3 ton Mr. Cool mini split. I used 1" panels. They're friction fit and where 2 panels meet, I have used metal tape to seal. My problem is the roof panels don't want to stay up. The panels want to sag in the center, then a gap opens up between the panels and the trusses, and sometimes the panels will fall down. I've drilled in some screws in places so that they won't fall all the way down but I'd have to screw in a bazillion more. That metal is really hard to drill into. I was thinking perhaps some blocks cut from leftover panels, glued to the trusses to keep the panels up. It takes so long for the glue to cure I figured maybe some hot glue to temporarily hold until the glue cures. Do you have any ideas? At some point I'd like to add additional panels to increase the R value. Thanks! (PS, I'm in north central FL)
I used furring strips and screwed them to the trusses with self tapping screws to keep the panels in place and that has worked well for me. That way it leaves you the flexibility to add more panels in the future. Hope this helps and thank for watching.
Hey, do you have neighbors? I'm curious how much that foam insulation helps cut down the noise from using a grinder, table saw, jointer, sanders, etc. The last thing I want to do is tick off the neighborhood with metal siding screaming like a banshee at 10pm.
I’m on an acre and a half so workshop noise for the neighbors not an issue. I installed it primarily for the cooling factor but there is some noise reduction benefit just not sure how many decibels. Hope this helped and thanks for watching!
I did something similar. I learned if the ceiling isn’t 100% sealed from the heated air below. it will rain in between. Next building will be spray foamed. .
Good luck if you have any electrical modification/issues. Spray foam is soooo overpriced and overrated. If you have a replace a panel then you have to reapray.
@@BigDog-xj8ol I am. I've had it for over ten years with no issues whatsoever. I'm located in Florida so due to termites a wood structure was not a great option. The only draw back is the heat, which is why I finally decided to insulate and eventually put in a mini split system.
have you seen condensation? I live in the high desert and run a wood buring stove in the winter. This helps to dry out the air inside the shop, but I dont want to go through the hassle of foam board unless, I am pretty sure it will work.
No I haven’t seen any issues with condensation yet. I live in a high humidity area Southwest Florida. I installed the foam board in the Fall so I really want know for sure how well it works until this Summer. I will be installing a Mr. Cool mini split system to condition the space which might help as well.
@@txseashell It worked out better than expected. With just the rigid insulation the building was 5-7 degrees cooler than the outside temp. Before I installed the insulation it was the opposite, the building was 5-7 degrees hotter. Now that I've installed a diy Mr. Cool mini split unit installed it works great. Just wish I would have done this years ago.....
You didn't mention if you measured the wall temp interior or exterior. It would make sense to me that the exterior would be warmer at the foam board as less heat is conducted to the interior.
Hey James, That's correct. Since this was for my workshop I encapsulated mine with T-111 siding. Below is a link to that video. Thanks for your feedback. ua-cam.com/video/QAQE_0ikIyg/v-deo.html
According to everything I've ever read about insulation, apparently the thermal bridge that is created from your support poles pretty much negates any R value that this insulation may afford. Look it up.
You can get them at any of the big box stores. I got mine at Lowes. The price ranges from $12-$35 per 4'x8' sheet depending on the thickness you get. I used 2" in the walls and 1" and 2" in the ceiling. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Try using pallet branding fiberglass strapping kit , like what is used in shipping products to go around the truss supporting insulation board . Much eraser. NVOYAJUAN Packaging 5/8" x2000' Polyester (PET) Strapping Kit,1380 Lbs Heavy Duty Pallet Banding Tensioner Tool Sealer, Water and Rust Resistance Poly Strapping, Affordable
Love the "Clutch" intro !!!
Thanks. The first time I heard it was on an episode of the Walking Dead and I was hooked.
Nice video, I plan on doing the same to my 24 X 20 X 12 building in north Florida. I learned a lot Thanks for taking the time to do it
I’m glad it helped and thanks for watching!
Table saw with the blade in backwards makes a clean cut without tearing
Nice work. That was a lot of work. Full-watch. 👍🏽🤠 8/7/23
Yes it was but well worth it especially this time of year in Florida. It's nice having an air conditioned workshop to work in every day. Thanks for watching.
How is this holding up? Still no condensation issues? I had spray foam in my previous building and absolutely hated it. I’m looking to go this route next time.
It’s working great no condensation issues. I installed T1-11 siding over the insulation and installed a Mr. Cool mini split inside my workshop and everything has worked perfect. My only regret was not doing this years ago. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop legendary thanks for the update man! Such a hard topic regarding insulation for these buildings so much different information. If you get some time you should toss up an update video.
Extendable razor knife that you can adjust to the thickness of the board works for me. I don't even measure. I just line the board up where I need it to go and cut along the edge I need to make fit.
Jigsaw blade is t313 6 inch. Works perfect
Thanks for the video. Now it’s been a while, is there anything you’d do different? Is it a big improvement?
Hey Woody,
No I'm very pleased with how it came out. It was a huge improvement, just wished I would have done it sooner. Below is a link to my update video after two years. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/nUxA2vu1pUQ/v-deo.html
Hello. Thanks for the info and videos. Just curious why did you have the ridge vent put in? I seen only one other person do that. They did it for condensation. If that is why you did does it work?
Yes, for condensation which works plus it allows the heat inside the building to exit through the ridge vent making the building more energy efficient. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop ok. That is what I thought. What size gap did you use and which ridge vent material? Thanks
@@cae2024 The gap is about one and a half to two inches. The ridge vent is galvanized metal and was installed when they installed my metal building and roof.
Chad you can check out my workshop update video link below where I detail how the roof ventilation works around the 9:30 minute mark.
ua-cam.com/video/nUxA2vu1pUQ/v-deo.html
Tutorial videos from that company show the shiny side (aluminum) is placed facing inside the building? I confused
It depends on if your trying to keep the radiant heat in or out. In hot climates like Florida you should face it out to reflect the radiant heat from entering your workshop. In cold climates like Michigan you should face it in to reflect and keep the radiant heat in the workshop. Hope that helps. Thanks
Love the trusses in this building, most now are only coming with the angles by the walls
What about the weight of the plywood on the roof framing. I'm not sure where you are located maybe you don't have to worry about snow loads and stuff so plywood weight doesn't factor into anything else
Yes, we are in Florida so snow loads are not an issue for us. Thanks for your comment.
Good video! Going to install the same Insul-Board in my RV trailer. My board is 1.5" thick with radiant barrier on one side. Does the radiant barrier face the interior or exterior?
Thanks RM! The radiant barrier should face the exterior.
How much did this cost in material?
Hey George, It took about 65 sheets at $27/sheet for approximately $1,755 and well worth it!
Do you run an ac unit in there? I'm curious how well the insulation works with ac.
I do and it works great! I installed a 24K BTU Mr. Cool unit and it has no problem cooling it in the middle of summer in Tampa, FL. Below is the A/C video installation. ua-cam.com/video/OZQ2DIrG38c/v-deo.html
Thanks for a great video. I’m considering purchasing a property that has a similar building w/ a roll up door.
I presume there is no way to insulate that door?
Hey Robert you can insulate the roll up door opening the same as the walls. I built a barn door to conceal my roll up door and insulated to barn door. I just open the barn doors to access the roll up door. Below is a link to that video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
ua-cam.com/video/ChRPvp3KVQQ/v-deo.html
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop
Thanks again sir for the link to video on the door. Very much appreciated…
Did you push the insulation board against the metal siding?
No I keep it flush with the inside of the wall that way it creates a one inch plus air gap to prevent condensation.
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop For the ceiling, where you used 1" of EPS Insulation, are those custom cut and sits on the lips of the purlins? Then you proceeded to tape where the foam sits on the purlin lips as well as where each piece of foam meets another piece?
At about 6:21, how did you secure those 1x6 cross board between the metal posts for your wood framing? I can see how you rest the board above in between the angled metal braces for trust. Just can't figured out how you get the bottom piece of wood framing to stick to the wall.
@@JP-xd6tb So my ceiling has 2 1/2" metal trusses with 2" purling on top of the truss and metal roof decking screwed to the purlins. In the 2" purlin cavity I installed the 1" insulation and it sits directly on top of the trusses leaving a 1" air gap between the insulation and roof decking. Then I installed 2" insulation between the roof trusses friction fit for a total of 3" insulation in the ceilings. Yes, I used metal HVAC tape at all the joints. I also installed some 1X furring strips between the trusses just in case the insulation started to sag.
For securing the wood framing I used L brackets and self tapping metal screws. You can check out my wall prep video which goes over the internal wall framing. The L bracket installation is around 10:40 in the below video.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching and let me know if you have anymore questions.
ua-cam.com/video/uDVfU9XPcxk/v-deo.html
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop Thanks for the quick reply! I'm surprised you have a 2" deep purlins/hat channel. I think mine's only 1.25" or so. Just started putting up .75" polyiso that I had bought last year before the price rise, yet again. I'm barely getting .5" air gap. Crossing fingers that it works. I'm debating on if I should do 2nd layer of foam like you did. My building is not 4' OC with metal posts/trust so wedging/friction it in like yours might not be as easy. Then there is the furring strip issue. Screwing to metals up so high is something I'd like to avoid.
I assume you don't have wood framing through out the building and only certain parts? Btw, I think you linked the wrong video, but I was able to find your wall framing video. Very informative videos. Thank you and will be watching more.
How big is your shop and how much you spent on insulation only?
My shop is 25'x30' with 10' high walls. It took 65 sheets of insulation at $27/sheet for approximately $1,750 and worth every penny! I just installed a DIY Mr. Cool unit and everything is working great. Especially during this heat wave in the middle of July in Central Florida.
Thank you for the video, it's very helpful! I notice you have plywood on the wall behind you. What thickness did you put up? I'm gathering as much information as I can. I have the same style of building. If you have any advice about wiring, it would be appreciated. Point me in the right direction.
I used 1/2" T1-11 siding. I did a project video on the installation process, see below link. I'll also send you a link to some of the electrical wiring. On my channel I have videos on my complete shop renovation where I transformed my metal building into a rustic workshop. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. Hope all this helps and thanks for watching.
ua-cam.com/video/QAQE_0ikIyg/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/oJIfVMwFCRQ/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/pLjeGJF7S-s/v-deo.html
Hey I have the same garage...I'm actually honing to use polyisco foam board with 1 inch gap
Im in NY state so winter's are cold and summer's hot
Company recommends to leave air gap which increase r rating for the board with foil facing outwards
Did you have any condensation issues where sir gap is? That's my only concern
No, I haven't had a condensation issue. I have about an inch gap and here in Florida I get enough air circulation to evaporate any moisture that might occur. I faced to foil backing outward to reflect the latent heat out of the workshop. If I lived up North I might would consider facing the foil backing inward to retain the latent heat inside the workshop.
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop yeah I hope so I'll put 2 mini splits for heat and ac
I think air gap would help
Idk about which way to face foil they recomend to face it outwards to make heat barrier and it will retain heat with proper heating...atleast that how they build houses in NY
Thanks !
Great video's, I plan to do the same thing this year
Looks good.
cost and . . . . how much "real difference" did you feel it made ?
Hey Rob,
It was approximately $3K for the walls and ceiling. I was optimistic at first, but I once it was complete I could feel a considerable difference in the temperature. I'm located in central Florida where we have extreme heat and combined with the metal walls and ceiling it was always hotter inside the building than outside. After installing the insulation it was the opposite. In the summer it was approximately 10 degrees cooler inside than outside and just the opposite in the Winter, it would be warmer inside than outside. For me it was worth the investment because in the Summer I could only work in my workshop until about 11am after that it was just to hot. Combined with installing a MR. COOL mini split system, the workshop is now a conditioned space and I can work year around in a 75 degree environment. The cost for the mini split was about $2,500. See link below to that video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
ua-cam.com/video/OZQ2DIrG38c/v-deo.htmlsi=S4EI2zgesrf_tSrB
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop Great to hear, we're in Melbourne Australia. Temps in our little 20' X 20' X 8' Zincalume shed can easily get up to 40+C in Summer . . way too hot to do any work in, let alone have a few cold beers in. Greatly appreciate your reply too ! Thanks mate.
I’m in the process of putting half inch foam board between my metal roof decking and the top of the truss. Do you think that will be enough or is it necessary to put 2” under that?
Hey George,
It depends on a lot of factors including you're geographic location. Down here in Florida I installed 1" rigid insulation between the roof decking and top of the truss and 2" rigid insulation between the top and bottom of the roof truss for a total 3 inches and an R-value of 10. If you live in a milder climate you might could get away with less. Thanks!
I live in illinois and it gets in the high 90’s in the summer and we get single digits in the winter so we get a bit of everything. I’ll consider doing the 2” under my .5” later down the road. I’m also considering the blue Tex roll out stuff just for the ceiling.
@@FishingRandomPlaces That's a good choice. I was planning on doing the same. If the rigid insulation wasn't enough. I was going to put blown or batt fiberglass insulation in the attic space. I installed a MR. COOL mini-split system last month and so far I'm pleased with how efficient and cool it is in the workshop in the middle of Summer.
Either way, you really want to leave an air space between the sheets and the exterior.
I had to comment to be the 100th COMMENT🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I really appreciate the support and thanks for watching!
I did a similar thing in my building. Mine is 36'x40'. I have a 3 ton Mr. Cool mini split. I used 1" panels. They're friction fit and where 2 panels meet, I have used metal tape to seal. My problem is the roof panels don't want to stay up. The panels want to sag in the center, then a gap opens up between the panels and the trusses, and sometimes the panels will fall down. I've drilled in some screws in places so that they won't fall all the way down but I'd have to screw in a bazillion more. That metal is really hard to drill into. I was thinking perhaps some blocks cut from leftover panels, glued to the trusses to keep the panels up. It takes so long for the glue to cure I figured maybe some hot glue to temporarily hold until the glue cures. Do you have any ideas? At some point I'd like to add additional panels to increase the R value. Thanks! (PS, I'm in north central FL)
I used furring strips and screwed them to the trusses with self tapping screws to keep the panels in place and that has worked well for me. That way it leaves you the flexibility to add more panels in the future. Hope this helps and thank for watching.
Hey, do you have neighbors?
I'm curious how much that foam insulation helps cut down the noise from using a grinder, table saw, jointer, sanders, etc. The last thing I want to do is tick off the neighborhood with metal siding screaming like a banshee at 10pm.
I’m on an acre and a half so workshop noise for the neighbors not an issue. I installed it primarily for the cooling factor but there is some noise reduction benefit just not sure how many decibels. Hope this helped and thanks for watching!
I did something similar. I learned if the ceiling isn’t 100% sealed from the heated air below. it will rain in between. Next building will be spray foamed. .
Good luck if you have any electrical modification/issues. Spray foam is soooo overpriced and overrated. If you have a replace a panel then you have to reapray.
What size metal building is yours? I’m debating building a metal shop versus a pole type barn. Thanks
I went with Carolina Carports 25 ft x 30 ft metal building with 10ft height walls.
Are you pleased with the building so far? Thanks
@@BigDog-xj8ol I am. I've had it for over ten years with no issues whatsoever. I'm located in Florida so due to termites a wood structure was not a great option. The only draw back is the heat, which is why I finally decided to insulate and eventually put in a mini split system.
I bet it made a world of difference in the temperature of your shop. Quieter too.
It did and I would definitely recommend it. I think it will help the efficiency of the mini split system once I get it installed.
have you seen condensation?
I live in the high desert and run a wood buring stove in the winter. This helps to dry out the air inside the shop, but I dont want to go through the hassle of foam board unless, I am pretty sure it will work.
No I haven’t seen any issues with condensation yet. I live in a high humidity area Southwest Florida. I installed the foam board in the Fall so I really want know for sure how well it works until this Summer. I will be installing a Mr. Cool mini split system to condition the space which might help as well.
I did this the same way. We get some moist air but with the ribs in the exterior metal the air circulates enough to dry any out.
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop I am also in central florida, will be watching your progress )
@@TheEndGrainWorkshop So how did it hold up in summer?
@@txseashell It worked out better than expected. With just the rigid insulation the building was 5-7 degrees cooler than the outside temp. Before I installed the insulation it was the opposite, the building was 5-7 degrees hotter. Now that I've installed a diy Mr. Cool mini split unit installed it works great. Just wish I would have done this years ago.....
Nice video. Thanks for sharing. Question. How many sheets do you think you ended up using for the entire garage? Thanks!
Thanks! My workshop is 25x30 with 10 ft ceilings. It took about 35 sheets for the walls and 30 sheet for the ceiling.
The foam can make the building hotter if the sun hits that area. My garage wall is 10 degrees hotter at the foam.
You didn't mention if you measured the wall temp interior or exterior. It would make sense to me that the exterior would be warmer at the foam board as less heat is conducted to the interior.
Did you put the foam board against the metal siding or did you leave a gap?
use a large cutting wheel
on your table saw.
Great idea!
I cut mine with the slightly sharpened edge of a 1" putty knife. Like butter.
most jurisdictions in North America demand that a thermal barrier, like drywall, cover the foam board.
Hey James,
That's correct. Since this was for my workshop I encapsulated mine with T-111 siding. Below is a link to that video. Thanks for your feedback.
ua-cam.com/video/QAQE_0ikIyg/v-deo.html
what R rating is this?
R 7.7 from Home Depot.
R 7.7 from Home Depot.
Yeah you could have edited out some of the emptying of the wood rack.
Got it. I was a newbie back then.
According to everything I've ever read about insulation, apparently the thermal bridge that is created from your support poles pretty much negates any R value that this insulation may afford. Look it up.
Don't need too. I can feel the effects of the insulation everyday I step foot in my workshop.
Where can I find these panels and do you know the price?
You can get them at any of the big box stores. I got mine at Lowes. The price ranges from $12-$35 per 4'x8' sheet depending on the thickness you get. I used 2" in the walls and 1" and 2" in the ceiling. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Shame on you for standing on the top of the step ladder like that. 🙃
Guilty has charged, sorry!🙂
Try using pallet branding fiberglass strapping kit , like what is used in shipping products to go around the truss supporting insulation board . Much eraser. NVOYAJUAN Packaging 5/8" x2000' Polyester (PET) Strapping Kit,1380 Lbs Heavy Duty Pallet Banding Tensioner Tool Sealer, Water and Rust Resistance Poly Strapping, Affordable