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Great simple build, this workstation is coming together nicely!

Got everything back together. Now all I need to do is center and tension my blade. Thanks. Paul

BTW, my 2005 PWBS 14 doesn’t have knobs on the bottom to remove the table.

Ok. I had the wrong hole for the thrust bearing. But once assembled, the blade is touching the right bearing and the thrust bearing is pushing into the blade. The assembly seems to be as far back as it can be. I just changed tires and blade and am having trouble getting the blade in the tire center. What a mess. Paul

You never say which way the central shaft is inserted. It has a lip in it. Is the lip on the inside or outside? I removed all my bearings but the rear thrust bearing hole doesn’t line up with the mounting hole. I checked the original and it has the same problem. What’s the trick? Thanks, Paul

Nice video, and good recycling...but not a reel, it's a hose hangout.

I believe you said a couple of times that one revolution of the adjustment ring is equal to 1/64" of depth adjustment. As you rotated it, it looked like it moved WAY more than a 64th. I looked up the manual for this and one complete revolution actually equals a half inch of depth. The 64th you are refering to is what each mark on the adjustable scale equals.

You really cover everything and I appreciate it. I’ve followed you on Instagram. But I don’t have the confidence to dissemble everything like you did. My saw has no knobs to remove the table too. Maybe it’s an older model. But I’d like to clean everything and remove whatever rust and dirt I see.

Ok. I think I got it. My wife must have slipped me some goofballs this morning in breakfast. I notice that Amazon sells both upper and lower bearing housings as well as the bearings themselves. My bandsaw has been in storage for over 15 years. Do you think I should just replace the whole units rather than just the bearings? Paul

Ok. I think I got it. My wife must have slipped me some goofballs this morning in breakfast. I notice that Amazon sells both upper and lower bearing housings as well as the bearings themselves. My bandsaw has been in storage for over 15 years. Do you think I should just replace the whole units rather than just the bearings? Paul

Hi. This is a very good video. Thanks. I have one of these PWBS 14 that I bought in 2005. I recently removed the upper and lower wheels to replace the two tires. The upper wheel was difficult to remove and I heard a “clunk” or two coming from behind. Now I have both wheels with new tires on and I’m trying to put in my new blade. But somehow the tension lever got turned around and the knob at the top doesn’t move the upper wheel. I’m at a loss on what to do. Any ideas? Thanks, Paul

Great job

I have somw if these doors but there are no screw holes to attach the door to the bank. I might have missed this in your vidoe but how did you attach it? I saw you screw it in but did you just drill holes?

Hello. Thanks for the info and videos. Just curious why did you have the ridge vent put in? I seen only one other person do that. They did it for condensation. If that is why you did does it work?

Did you use 2x4s all the way around the window on the inside? I saw the bottom and top. Need to install 6 in my building your video is VERY helpful! Thank you.

I see how the lock works but how do you actually open and close the door since there’s no handle?

Hey, do you have neighbors? I'm curious how much that foam insulation helps cut down the noise from using a grinder, table saw, jointer, sanders, etc. The last thing I want to do is tick off the neighborhood with metal siding screaming like a banshee at 10pm.

Very nice video. Where did you find the brass piece for the coin slot? Also the decal for the P.O. Box number.

New subscriber , nice work , I don’t have a router table to make that cut , What can I do to make this cut pop ?

Very nice, Well done.

What is the distance between your trusses? How much of a difference did this make towards keeping your Temps down?

Nice video, I plan on doing the same to my 24 X 20 X 12 building in north Florida. I learned a lot Thanks for taking the time to do it

Hi Rick, great video and an awesome project! Did you know….. ( i was surprised to see the Levi’s shirt and then an NRA shirt. You’re clearly a hunter just know Levi’s is a publicly held company mostly owned by heirs, that are very Anti 2A and spend wildly on any anti gun cause and candidates, and get none of my dollars.

How many fingerprint can you put

They are awesome, thanks for showing us this!

Tha preces 😁

Great job. Thanks for the tips.

Good review but can you tell me what the distance is between the center of the ball to the center of each hole that is on the receiver end.

Your video did a great job showing how to change out bearings and tires. However I am disappointed in your lack of instructions on how to put the table back on. I am having trouble aligning the table in all three axis...there is little to no finger space to make adjustments to the trunnion. I wish you would have spent more time on this. The Powermatic manual is lacking in depth to the finer points of aligning the table top. Chuck B

This is a great build, love the finished look. I had never thought to use a scrap piece of mitered edge banding for alignment of the mitered corners, great pro tip. Look forward to the additions. I also appreciated in your last video (Part 2) how you show the mistakes and how they were overcome. When I was building my router table I cut the drawers too WIDE and had to cut a shallow dado in the sides of the cabinet box to inset the drawer slides. Still better than having to rebuild all the drawers!

I’m trying to visualize the caulking of the J channel to the metal siding at the cutout. Wish you would have shown how that was installed. Is the wider 2 1/2 flat surface of the J channel just pressed against the interior metal wall? Resting on the 2x4? Or caulked to the wood frame on the inside? Thanks, Eddie

Great video Rick! Just purchased a new DeWalt DWP611 router and your video helped a lot! Thank you!

Is the secret ingredient Coke or Pepsi?

Thank you for your very good and easy instructions on how to adjust the bandsaw blade.

Split a double hung vinyl window which contains double insulated glass for the roof

lol the supervisor interruption 😂

They don't work

I’ve been doing this for 23 years. People doing their own, make sure you have a steady and firm pressure on the tool when pressing the spline into the groove, because if it rolls off the spline, pinching the screen between the roller and frame will cut the screen. Good luck everyone

Is there a workaround if the new pumps power cord head doesn't fit through the pipe it needs to fit through?

Fantastic review! Thank you.

Great Video

(This IS Important )12 minutes in the video you have to let the door know whether it's a right hand throw or a left hand throw. Put three batteries in / take your reset key or pin hold it down and put the 4th battery in. It does it automatically. Once it locks you're good to go now start your programming.

Nice work there. Very detailed description of how the micro jig works and how one might choose which side to deploy when making cuts. Particularly liked seeing how you made the inserts and the manner in which you got around the high blade by using the 8" blade to begin the cut. Thanks!

Rick, nice insert. What kind of fence is that on your table saw?

Nice review. The posted ads for this hitch state higher tow capacity than what you indicated. Current ads on eBay state 8000/15000/18500 for the three ball sizes (1-7/8, 2, and 2-5/16).

What if the bottom has felt glued all over...???

🤩🤩🤩👍👍👍💕

Thanks for the great video! We have a similar fountain (and pump), but I have an off-topic question. By chance, do you have any recommendations for keeping the door in front of the pump closed? We have some curious raccoons who come by often, and they push open the door, and have even pulled out the pump! I need access to the pump, so I can’t seal the door. I’ve tried wedges, wrapping rope around the base/door, but they eventually still open the door! Just wondering if you have any ideas? Thanks again for your informative video!

I build all my cabinet carcasses separately from the toe-kicks. To me, it makes the carcass build simpler and the install more versatile, and it's really not that much extra work. This method gives so many more options for height, toe-kick depth, wall offsets (for wall footers, dust collection, etc.), and allows you to run any wiring or tubing through the toe kick prior to cabinet install. Also, leveling the toe kicks is much easier than leveling a bank of large heavy cabinets, especially if you have to shim the back sides. Great build, looking forward to the finished product!

What if you screwed it up and you cannot get it to unlock again? Is there a way to reset?