So glad a UA-camr is building a legit top shelf LS with MBE top end and tough as nails Dart LS Next 2 Pro block when most settle for a LSX block and PRC heads.
That is a cheapie dial bore gauge for checking something precise like main bearing clearance (that caliber gauge is for checking rough boring), we like to use the Sunnen .0001 gauge (the same gauge we use when line honing). Then we check the rod bearings on the Sunnen precision gauge, it's just far more accurate.
Back in 1996 I was running head rings (top fuel hoops) on a 406cid Small block Chevy. .080 Clark Copper head gaskets. 14.5:1 Wisco on 6" h-beam rods. AFR 220 aluminum heads. Dual 850cfm Holleys.
Everything can fail if you push hard enough,lmao That’s racing though Beautiful build with the best products I’m excited to hear it sing it’s song at 10k 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice build!! What kind (material) of head studs you planning to use? You should use same thickness bearings in the cap side and thicker or thinner ones in the block side no?
Hi! I have a question in general: When I do check my crankshaft bearing clearances (torqueing them down and measuring without a crank in the block) can I re-use those bearings when I finally mount the crank? Or do I have to buy a whole new set of crank and rod bearings? My friend said after toqueing down crank caps and rod caps the bearings get crushed and cannot be re-used. On the internet I found only one reference which said that they only get crushed "elastically", so they would do get back into their origin shape after loosening the caps.... Marlon
Awesome man. Have you ever been approached by anyone that wants you to teach them to buld an engine from bare block to finshed. Like someone who wants to build a 1300-1400 RWHP boost LS 427ci iron LSX. You just build it with them over a few days or however many days it takes? Then they have their engine and they built it and learned at the same time.
Is there a time when you would want a tighter crank bearing clearance? What determines gap? Rpms , power adders, street or race? Thanks for taking time
When you're torquing for main oil clearance are you using any arp lube for the nut and washer? For checking clearances i don't so i was wondering if you do.
Didn’t see him use lube on the threads of the main studs for accurate torque specs. The Achilles heal is the head bolt design on the LS. So they are right by saying the headgasket will be the weak link. So please don’t think it can’t fail, because it can. Just because you’re using top fuel hoops, doesn’t mean it’s as good. Top fuel engines have much a much better bolt pattern around the cylinder, to hold the head down, and they also lift the heads while going down the track. So not sure I’d say they won’t fail. But still, very nice engine you’re doing. The SBC is king for the high HP boosted small blocks, because they have more bolts around the head. There is a reason the badass SBFs use 9/16 headstuds.
Hey engine guy. Can you shed your expertise on my ls1. Its a stock bottom end ls1 from a 04 gto making 450rwhp. Its got cnc 243 stage 3 ported head 224 cam 102 intake and throttle body, bigger injectors and 100maf. The tuner said to put 0-40w oil instead of 5-30w. Would 0-40w oil hurt my motor like not lubricating the small oil passages. Also with all your performance engines what oil do you run in them. Thanks
I know the h series are a narrowed harder bearing than the v series. the v series being softer material. Wouldn't the the v bearing your useing on the rods at high rpm possibly pinch on the journal radius ?by the way nice engine build
Hell yea!!! What kinda trans do you guys plan on running in that vette?? I have confidence that you will absolutely crush it there! What is the number you have to beat???………just remember once your on top your gonna have a massive target on your back!!……and a crazy giraffe like character that likes to go after those targets😂😂😂
Can you please explain how you can run 9500 RPM with that engine/stroke? Some time ago I heard that the maximum piston speed should not exceed 4500 to 5000 feet/min because the oil film will tear up. Is that correct? I am a little bit confused now. Thanks for so many nice videos! 👍
I noticed you didn’t mention anything about using a narrow or standard width bearing. Many aftermarket cranks have the radius at the counterweights. I’m guessing this crank does not.
I know you have been buying and building this for a while but ..........Steve Morris is making a block that would be an even better option than you have now. You should check it bout. He has a wet block and it has 2 extra head studs per cylinder and they are all clevland crank journals and has roller cam bearings. These things are made to race and drive daily.
that kind of caliber engine should you a better way to check bearings clearance, it is not really accurate. Should be used is a Sunnen GR-6241 and a setting tool CF-1126
If you plan to make 3000 go AND turn 9500rpm…. I think you should consult with Steve morris He actually does both with an ls style engine. I think your reciprocating assembly is toooooi heavy
😂😂😂😂😂 the internet monsters talking about head gaskets leaking when it is top fuel seat technology. 100% won't work... no chance... top fuel cars always leak at the heads pushing 11k... 😂😂😂😂😂 the internet always makes me laugh.
The crank is a work of art being fully polished ❤
So glad a UA-camr is building a legit top shelf LS with MBE top end and tough as nails Dart LS Next 2 Pro block when most settle for a LSX block and PRC heads.
I also want to thank you for explaining how to build an engine in a way anyone can understand.
Love watching these. Keep ‘em coming! Your descriptions are very thorough and detailed, you’re a brilliant teacher!
That HAS to be the most beautiful crankshaft in existence!
Yes your on the Money... .003ish thou on the mains, and 2.7" on the rods will be very nice..
I would have a hard time installing that art piece crankshaft!! Wow 😮 🤩
Love the series, thanks for sharing!. I know where my next motor {Engine} is coming from. Can't wait for this one to rip. 180 exhaust? 8500 Oh yeah!
That is a cheapie dial bore gauge for checking something precise like main bearing clearance (that caliber gauge is for checking rough boring), we like to use the Sunnen .0001 gauge (the same gauge we use when line honing). Then we check the rod bearings on the Sunnen precision gauge, it's just far more accurate.
Lots of badassery on that table!
Back in 1996 I was running head rings (top fuel hoops) on a 406cid Small block Chevy. .080 Clark Copper head gaskets. 14.5:1 Wisco on 6" h-beam rods. AFR 220 aluminum heads. Dual 850cfm Holleys.
Everything can fail if you push hard enough,lmao
That’s racing though
Beautiful build with the best products
I’m excited to hear it sing it’s song at 10k 👍👍👍👍👍
Always very informative, one thing I didn’t see . Did you not lube the main studs or bolt? Had clean hands during final assembly
Nice!! How would you go about choosing the oil weight for racing clearance?
GOAT 🐐
Enjoying build. What type of speeds you looking at? 200+ ? How about handling mods on car to keep it straight and right side up?
I would pay good money to watch you build a coyote motor in this detail😂😂
Nice build!! What kind (material) of head studs you planning to use?
You should use same thickness bearings in the cap side and thicker or thinner ones in the block side no?
Hi! I have a question in general: When I do check my crankshaft bearing clearances (torqueing them down and measuring without a crank in the block) can I re-use those bearings when I finally mount the crank? Or do I have to buy a whole new set of crank and rod bearings? My friend said after toqueing down crank caps and rod caps the bearings get crushed and cannot be re-used. On the internet I found only one reference which said that they only get crushed "elastically", so they would do get back into their origin shape after loosening the caps.... Marlon
Awesome man. Have you ever been approached by anyone that wants you to teach them to buld an engine from bare block to finshed. Like someone who wants to build a 1300-1400 RWHP boost LS 427ci iron LSX. You just build it with them over a few days or however many days it takes? Then they have their engine and they built it and learned at the same time.
Is there a time when you would want a tighter crank bearing clearance? What determines gap? Rpms , power adders, street or race? Thanks for taking time
When you're torquing for main oil clearance are you using any arp lube for the nut and washer? For checking clearances i don't so i was wondering if you do.
Didn’t see him use lube on the threads of the main studs for accurate torque specs.
The Achilles heal is the head bolt design on the LS. So they are right by saying the headgasket will be the weak link. So please don’t think it can’t fail, because it can. Just because you’re using top fuel hoops, doesn’t mean it’s as good. Top fuel engines have much a much better bolt pattern around the cylinder, to hold the head down, and they also lift the heads while going down the track. So not sure I’d say they won’t fail. But still, very nice engine you’re doing.
The SBC is king for the high HP boosted small blocks, because they have more bolts around the head. There is a reason the badass SBFs use 9/16 headstuds.
Hey engine guy. Can you shed your expertise on my ls1. Its a stock bottom end ls1 from a 04 gto making 450rwhp. Its got cnc 243 stage 3 ported head 224 cam 102 intake and throttle body, bigger injectors and 100maf. The tuner said to put 0-40w oil instead of 5-30w. Would 0-40w oil hurt my motor like not lubricating the small oil passages. Also with all your performance engines what oil do you run in them. Thanks
Why not run a modern style intake with forward facing throttle body?
Fire rings are indestructible! No more head gasket problems,
I know the h series are a narrowed harder bearing than the v series. the v series being softer material. Wouldn't the the v bearing your useing on the rods at high rpm possibly pinch on the journal radius ?by the way nice engine build
It looks like you can change the lifters without taking the heads off. That is a big+. Do you know what degree the heads are softened?
5* I believe
@@JacobVillemain sounds right, that is going to be one bad boy for sure.
Wish you explained the ball bearing under the stud a little more but great vid
Will rods hold up??
Alum rods to heavy for you?
Hell yea!!! What kinda trans do you guys plan on running in that vette?? I have confidence that you will absolutely crush it there! What is the number you have to beat???………just remember once your on top your gonna have a massive target on your back!!……and a crazy giraffe like character that likes to go after those targets😂😂😂
Can you please explain how you can run 9500 RPM with that engine/stroke? Some time ago I heard that the maximum piston speed should not exceed 4500 to 5000 feet/min because the oil film will tear up. Is that correct? I am a little bit confused now.
Thanks for so many nice videos! 👍
Ever wave a neodymium over the parts b4 install to see if metal dust is hidden on your tool area?
Should the top oil ring b gapped also?
Will you guys will sell 383 and 408 LS as well?
I noticed you didn’t mention anything about using a narrow or standard width bearing. Many aftermarket cranks have the radius at the counterweights. I’m guessing this crank does not.
That’s a lot of bob weight for 9500rpm
Bada$$ either way.
What Mile date are you targeting?
Seems like yesterday, the peak power number we reached for was 300
3.0 to 3.4 difference?. Its okay to be a couple tenths off?.......
What is the total price of all the parts?
I know you have been buying and building this for a while but ..........Steve Morris is making a block that would be an even better option than you have now. You should check it bout. He has a wet block and it has 2 extra head studs per cylinder and they are all clevland crank journals and has roller cam bearings. These things are made to race and drive daily.
The rods got me worried for that rpm and hp attempt
Are they not the same rods used in the older 5k hp Castrol GTX ran by John force in late 80's?
@philthelawnman i assure you they are not.
I would have definitely had them machine a roller bearing instead of the thrust bearing. that much power the convertor is is going to eat it fast
that kind of caliber engine should you a better way to check bearings clearance, it is not really accurate. Should be used is a Sunnen GR-6241 and a setting tool CF-1126
This shit is making me pumped and it's not even mine😂
If you plan to make 3000 go AND turn 9500rpm…. I think you should consult with Steve morris He actually does both with an ls style engine. I think your reciprocating assembly is toooooi heavy
😂😂😂😂😂 the internet monsters talking about head gaskets leaking when it is top fuel seat technology.
100% won't work... no chance... top fuel cars always leak at the heads pushing 11k... 😂😂😂😂😂 the internet always makes me laugh.
It ain't living. Your gonna have a box full of expensive parts.
This is a big buck build
Just another LS build nothing special here same ole shit
Yep and he ain’t gonna make 3000hp 😂 the block will let go just watch ahaha