Brother, it doesn't matter what you do. Someone is gonna run their trap about something. You can't please all of the people all of the time. You can only please some of the people some of the time. Good video !!!
It’s usually individuals who don’t have ANY content at all that are the most critical. People who are busy don’t have time for that kind of negativity.
Maybe I didn't catch it, but it is smart to degree a camshaft even on milder stuff when you decide to use aftermarket rotating assemblies. Banking on the crank or cam company for that matter to never be off is kinda dumb and you can be giving up some. Stock, yeah straight up, dot to dot, and any other way you want to say it. Point being, people are dumb and take UA-cam videos to be gospel. There is a right/wrong way to build an engine so if you are portraying as so do it. And UA-cam content amount does not dictate knowledge, that's just dumb.
@Dirtydave67 There too much Parotting on UA-cam!!! I didn't degree mine. Ls3 swap. BTR Stage 2 V2. But I am also not trying to squeeze every ounce of HPs out of my engine. A little more than stock is ok for me. It's going in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. It came with 239 HPs so anything over that is great.
@@GrandPitoVic what it sounds like you did (correct me if I'm wrong) you cleaned up a stock engine and slid a btr shelf cam in. Yes, it's not really going to matter. Like I said, stock stuff it's not going to make a worthwhile difference. Aftermarket, best believe it, not just for power but also to make sure alignment is correct. With everything being made in China I don't feel like relying on Wong to always get the crank keyway right on
Yeah they’re only used for setting up your valve train geometry you adjust them to proper length and measure them to order proper length ones . They aren’t used in a running engine they’re a tool .
Looking to buy a project Chevelle/ Camaro soon. I would like to say thank you so much for the step by step installation here very detailed and easy to follow. Please continue to do content like this !
Thanks for everything that you said about building an LS engine. I have a 1981 Toyota starlet that I was looking to build soon. I'm going to be checking out your videos alot more. Later . Shaw's custom paint and body .
You said you don’t have a torque spec for the plug on the oil pump but the directions you showed us from melling had the torque spec on it. Which was 106 inch pounds.
Brother, I’m glad that the boss allows his employees to wear shorts and light clothing in his machine shop. It doesn’t get much hotter than a Texas summer!
Woah Jacob! What a treat! Very enjoyable video to watch from an old subscriber. From the tips and tricks, to the excellent camera angles and pro tips. Bravo. I'm going to say 575 HP/550 TQ. 😊
I built a ls1 383 a few years ago , did a 11:1 with trickflow 220 heads , 242/250 tsp cam n/a it was a turd , on 20 pounds a boost and e85 it was quite impressive
@ never on a dyno , only pass it made on the 1/4 ran 132 mph @ 8psi , I’m still working on the car hopefully this summer I’ll have it back up and running
@That Engine Guy Hey Jacob, Try using the EZ pushrod length checkers at summit racing. So much faster for getting push rod lengths. They have various models to accommodate most engines. It will save you so much time.
Hello great video you’re very accurate. Very thorough. But i am wondering why you don’t use a microfiber cloth to check the journals and bearing surfaces for cleanliness. I’m wondering why you didn’t mention staggering the rings where the gaps will be. Also I didn’t hear you mention the chamfer on rings. That’s very important and I didn’t hear you mention that. I am not critiquing just observing i am an ASE certified auto technician and I’ve been building engines race engines for many years, three things thatI noticed. Keep up the good work you’d be an excellent instructor.
imo 5.3 is the best modern GM engine you can literally do anything with this engine... it's cost effective, it can be a reliable daily driver, it defeats 6.0 for sure in MPG and all around cost effective. You can forge and stroke add boost and have 1k horsepower... and still shock those coyotes and LT fanboys.
Spinning the crank, from my little experience is that it can move the bearing a little. All I can think of is maybe they don't want you to then hit the bearing, that could be sticking up ever so slightly because it moved, when you put the carriers on.
In regards to your previous feeler gauge technique for installing the LS Oil Pump, ever since I saw you do it THAT way rather than using an alignment plug or the like, I really do like that technique, especially for big dollar stuff. Perhaps Melling are using a Billet Gear setup rather than Stock GM's Powder Metal Forged Gears, giving Melling more confidence in their product ? I am still having Nissan RB26DETT (Skyline GTR) Flashbacks/Nightmares from shattered powder metal forged oil pump gears (crankshaft driven like GM) and the 'upgrade' to billet gears in case you hit the rev limiter too many times and wanted to avoid catastrophic failure...... I enjoy the LS World MUCH more (as does my wallet).
I noticed I haven’t seen a vid of a 408 stroker LS on your channel before. Maybe I could take you the block and the parts for the short block to be assembled. What price would I be looking at👀
Does it matter when you install windage tray (after pistons & rods obviously), rear cover, front cover (after timing set obviously), and balancer? Do you put RTV anywhere on oil pan gasket like where it meets the front cover?
I do like the process you have done but I have one question on this particular motor if I remember right you have to pressure it to pre-oil it why didn't you do that before you put the valve covers on
Hey don’t the main caps have to torqued in a sequence starting from the center to left to right back left to right or it don’t really matter as long as they torqued right
It's too easy to blame the engineers for that. They are educated and qualified and unable to chew gum and walk. Just kidding 🤣. I have worked with engineers for most of my working days and actually had mostly good, positive relationships with them. Only the one's that were green and on their first project did I ever have any sort of problems with. They got better when they decided to work with a person as opposed to being their boss. I was the boss so, the sooner they figured that out the better things got. If your plate is full,the last thing you need is to be everyone's Daddy 😊
Do you run tighter main bearing clearance on aluminum blocks vs cast iron? Do you find that the clearance grows .001 more on the mains on an aluminum block vs cast iron?
Brother, it doesn't matter what you do. Someone is gonna run their trap about something. You can't please all of the people all of the time. You can only please some of the people some of the time. Good video !!!
It’s usually individuals who don’t have ANY content at all that are the most critical. People who are busy don’t have time for that kind of negativity.
@prevost8686 That is true lol.
Maybe I didn't catch it, but it is smart to degree a camshaft even on milder stuff when you decide to use aftermarket rotating assemblies. Banking on the crank or cam company for that matter to never be off is kinda dumb and you can be giving up some. Stock, yeah straight up, dot to dot, and any other way you want to say it.
Point being, people are dumb and take UA-cam videos to be gospel. There is a right/wrong way to build an engine so if you are portraying as so do it. And UA-cam content amount does not dictate knowledge, that's just dumb.
@Dirtydave67 There too much Parotting on UA-cam!!! I didn't degree mine. Ls3 swap. BTR Stage 2 V2. But I am also not trying to squeeze every ounce of HPs out of my engine. A little more than stock is ok for me. It's going in a 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It's a project with my grandkids. It came with 239 HPs so anything over that is great.
@@GrandPitoVic what it sounds like you did (correct me if I'm wrong) you cleaned up a stock engine and slid a btr shelf cam in. Yes, it's not really going to matter. Like I said, stock stuff it's not going to make a worthwhile difference. Aftermarket, best believe it, not just for power but also to make sure alignment is correct. With everything being made in China I don't feel like relying on Wong to always get the crank keyway right on
Guy wears his Rolex assembly engines. Top #goals
Don't knock it until you try it.
His business is obviously doing very well if he’s able to wear a rolex while doing this.
Masterclass in engine building, took me awhile to get through it but I learned a lot (like adjustable pushrods are a thing?!)
Yeah they’re only used for setting up your valve train geometry you adjust them to proper length and measure them to order proper length ones . They aren’t used in a running engine they’re a tool .
Looking to buy a project Chevelle/ Camaro soon. I would like to say thank you so much for the step by step installation here very detailed and easy to follow. Please continue to do content like this !
Thanks for everything that you said about building an LS engine. I have a 1981 Toyota starlet that I was looking to build soon. I'm going to be checking out your videos alot more. Later . Shaw's custom paint and body .
You said you don’t have a torque spec for the plug on the oil pump but the directions you showed us from melling had the torque spec on it. Which was 106 inch pounds.
Brother, I’m glad that the boss allows his employees to wear shorts and light clothing in his machine shop. It doesn’t get much hotter than a Texas summer!
Woah Jacob! What a treat! Very enjoyable video to watch from an old subscriber. From the tips and tricks, to the excellent camera angles and pro tips. Bravo. I'm going to say 575 HP/550 TQ. 😊
Fantastic tips ,thanks for making these videos!
How much is that ls1 383 stroller rotating assembly and the cam?
I built a ls1 383 a few years ago , did a 11:1 with trickflow 220 heads , 242/250 tsp cam n/a it was a turd , on 20 pounds a boost and e85 it was quite impressive
11:1 on 20lbs, my man. E85 for sure. What were you putting down?
@ never on a dyno , only pass it made on the 1/4 ran 132 mph @ 8psi , I’m still working on the car hopefully this summer I’ll have it back up and running
For as many engines as you have built, I would say your two cents is worthwhile.
@That Engine Guy Hey Jacob, Try using the EZ pushrod length checkers at summit racing. So much faster for getting push rod lengths. They have various models to accommodate most engines. It will save you so much time.
As always I love your video
Great, big thanks for making these videos.
dear sir
its really a good video I like it how u did the thing
god bless u sir
Thank you for your videos
Hello great video you’re very accurate. Very thorough. But i am wondering why you don’t use a microfiber cloth to check the journals and bearing surfaces for cleanliness. I’m wondering why you didn’t mention staggering the rings where the gaps will be. Also I didn’t hear you mention the chamfer on rings. That’s very important and I didn’t hear you mention that. I am not critiquing just observing i am an ASE certified auto technician and I’ve been building engines race engines for many years, three things thatI noticed. Keep up the good work you’d be an excellent instructor.
I swear those pistons rods and wrist pins laid out like that looked fast already with the light shinnin' on them jus right
imo 5.3 is the best modern GM engine you can literally do anything with this engine... it's cost effective, it can be a reliable daily driver, it defeats 6.0 for sure in MPG and all around cost effective. You can forge and stroke add boost and have 1k horsepower... and still shock those coyotes and LT fanboys.
Good video and pretty detailed. Good job. I say 587
Would molybdenum diasulphate assembly grease be okay for engine assembly. Thinking being very sticky it should stay put mire than a assembly oil
Spinning the crank, from my little experience is that it can move the bearing a little. All I can think of is maybe they don't want you to then hit the bearing, that could be sticking up ever so slightly because it moved, when you put the carriers on.
Wow she soo smart I used to struggle with that washer.
In regards to your previous feeler gauge technique for installing the LS Oil Pump, ever since I saw you do it THAT way rather than using an alignment plug or the like, I really do like that technique, especially for big dollar stuff. Perhaps Melling are using a Billet Gear setup rather than Stock GM's Powder Metal Forged Gears, giving Melling more confidence in their product ? I am still having Nissan RB26DETT (Skyline GTR) Flashbacks/Nightmares from shattered powder metal forged oil pump gears (crankshaft driven like GM) and the 'upgrade' to billet gears in case you hit the rev limiter too many times and wanted to avoid catastrophic failure...... I enjoy the LS World MUCH more (as does my wallet).
I noticed I haven’t seen a vid of a 408 stroker LS on your channel before. Maybe I could take you the block and the parts for the short block to be assembled. What price would I be looking at👀
Does it matter when you install windage tray (after pistons & rods obviously), rear cover, front cover (after timing set obviously), and balancer?
Do you put RTV anywhere on oil pan gasket like where it meets the front cover?
600+ at the crank no problems, maybe somewhere between 610-620hp.
May I ask what this current build cost in todays prices ???
Can I volunteer my LS1 for a 383 upgrade?
Lol I have 1 got 230 thousand miles I'm looking at doing exactly this to push the ft lbs up in my truck
❤ Most Needed Video of the Year Goes To....🎉
Good job man. Thank you.
I do like the process you have done but I have one question on this particular motor if I remember right you have to pressure it to pre-oil it why didn't you do that before you put the valve covers on
Main bolts outer stud torque is 51 degrees. OEM rod bolts can be re-used. they can only be re-torqued Max 3 times, according to AERA.
Crank seems like it hangs up in two spots when being rotated at 33:22. What’s going on there?
Great video!!
5/16 is 0.002461" smaller than 8mm, yet it still strips?
Question- I'm building a very similar build but with a 8/71 roots blower, what the limitations on a rollmaster single timing gear setup?
Do what you do and don’t mess with success
Your blue torque marks are supposed to run across the bolt, down the side, and on to the surface of the object you’re torquing down.
Hey don’t the main caps have to torqued in a sequence starting from the center to left to right back left to right or it don’t really matter as long as they torqued right
How do u measure with btr shaft rockers
what model torque wrench is that.
What psi injectors you are running.
With the ls engine is there any specific orientation of ring gaps?
I've always put the gaps aligned with the wrist pin , opposite sides of course, right or wrong ???
I got a TBSS engine started making noise the other day 193k on it can you recommend any good engine rebuilders in texas dfw area?
How is your impact so clean 😅 mines dirty asf lol
Did you run bee halve or double spring
Serious question. Why would you ever elect to use an adjustable push rod over a solid state push rod?
Not to mention what is you’re four or five degrees off on can angle?
The adjustable pushrod is to check and see what length pishrod is needed
Can you do the same to a lm7 block
ive bought those cam retainer plates before im pretty sure the new design plates are only 11 ft pounds not 18 pounds
What ptw clearance did you run
@ThatEngineGuy. How much for this build from you?
Helped me build a drag car
The tip of your fingers have over 1 million terminating nerves. That why you can feel everything on the surface
Criss-cross torq pattern ?
What year is that block
Is that ls a marine engine
Thinking 🤔 565hp Dyno number
How much did this cost
Where is this guy located at??
That's a really good in depth video..do them all just like that..good stuff
Exhaust pushrods are usually shorter than intake pushrods because exhaust valves are usually longer than intake valves.
First 👍's up engine Guy thank you for sharing 🤗
Are you working on a motor or an engine .
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
550hp range at the flywheel
What we don't want to hear is usually our failure!!!!
587 HP at 6800
Hey 👋 Steve
I always had a great laugh when you where on Johnny
Carson show.
with no accessories and electric water pump on an engine dyno i would say 615-620
567 hp 615 t at the wheels baby
Don't ask Smeding to build your 383. They don't work on customer supplied blocks!
It's too easy to blame the engineers for that. They are educated and qualified and unable to chew gum and walk. Just kidding 🤣. I have worked with engineers for most of my working days and actually had mostly good, positive relationships with them. Only the one's that were green and on their first project did I ever have any sort of problems with. They got better when they decided to work with a person as opposed to being their boss. I was the boss so, the sooner they figured that out the better things got. If your plate is full,the last thing you need is to be everyone's Daddy 😊
588HP
Pardon me….”personal ls7” let’s see that lol
I think you'll make 425 hp ,Just guessing
Ole Dan huh? Tel himl George T. Stagg says hello
im guessing 550 +
😊423
582 HP
580hp
600 flywheel hp
Do you run tighter main bearing clearance on aluminum blocks vs cast iron? Do you find that the clearance grows .001 more on the mains on an aluminum block vs cast iron?
591 HP.
578HP
566TQ
630 hp
550
580 hp
650
620hp 550 tq my guess
I thing it will make 601 hp
First
506
484
506h
675
565
What is the number so I can call
580hp
620hp