If you think you're scratching the crank that easy then......well idk what to tell you then, it wasn't a sharp edge, it was flat on flat and there both hardened, am I the only one thinks that was no big deal?
I'm glad I found somebody that's willing to share their knowledge. I am getting ready to redo the bottom end of my Duramax and I am having trouble talking to people about how to do it because all they care about is making money on it and they want to do it themselves and not share any knowledge so I can learn.
I absolutely love the channel and the videos, I think if you made a video going through the entire build process for an engine step by step from bare block fresh from the machine shop and breaking it up into parts would be good.
Man oh man! Thank you so much again! There's people out there who charge hundreds of dollars for classes on this and you take the time out of your day to pass this on for nothing. Thanks to you, I'm doing my own cam bearings, file fitting my own rings, and now my bearing clearances. Teacher, will you show me the correct way of taking piston to valve clearance and choosing the proper head gasket to achieve the desired clearance and how to calculate compression ratio?
If you think about it, if you're just an engine builder, the manufacturers of the parts your using do all the work for you. All your doing is making sure all the parts go together correctly.
Or you could use the part on the end that spins free of the other spinny bit. Thats how you properly adjust to the correct measurement without putting the micrometer under tension.
I like how you explained it a little better if not a lot better than some of the other ones I saw on UA-cam. It's been over 25 years since I mess with a dial bore gauge and Mic set. I usually throw the motors together with the bearings as they are without checking really. Unless I run into a problem where it's too tight. But with this performance build I'm doing with a LS3 and LSA supercharger I'm going to make sure everything's correct.
I love your videos and I love your channel. Keep the videos coming! I do want to say, when determining the diameter of the journal, you should be using the rachet at the end of the knurled gripe. This is setup to slip once the correct "tightness" is determined and the measurement can be taken. Turn the rachet until it stops, lock the spindle in place and that's the most accurate way to get your measurement.
Clear and precise!! Jacob you sure make it seem like you know what you are doing!! Great job!! I watched this video in its entirety.. do I get my certification for being a semi professional amateur engine builder with my rotating assembly now?? 25 years old and this engine builder sharing knowledge of 75 years worth!! Great job Jacob! Thank you! Keep it coming!
Guys, please don't do that to your micrometers. Gently find the center (highest points) on the material, then gently twist until both sides make contact and you cannot close the micrometer any further. As a machinest I appreciate you recommending micrometers, but that is not how you use them and will ruin the precision by doing that.
take 1/2 the bearing put it on the crank get a sharpie and draw a line on the crank on both ends of the bearing then you have a great start every time to mic the center of the crank
BTW, if you need a micrometer specifically for tubing or tube type materials, they make special anvils and micrometers to make it easier when trying to find the high points. A 10th mic with gently hands works fine (.0001 accuracy and calipers will be good for .001 accuracy) Mitutoyo and Brown and sharpe are 2 of the best.
Something that misleads a lot of people. It looks good that there's a 50 millionths *resolution*, but that doesn't mean it's that accurate. My 0-1" Mitutoyo, according to the calibration sheet, reads +.00005" at 5 different measurements other than 0. Unsure on my vernier ones, .0001" resolution, but I'm sure they're anywhere in the +- .0001 throughout the measurement range. It's not much, sure, but it can be the difference between something in tolerance or out.
That's one way to do it, but I prefer to take multiple readings around the journals, average them, and check out of round or taper on the journal. Taking one point doesn't give you the whole picture. For a relatively loose race deal with .001" clearance per inch of journal diameter, this method works, and is better than Plastigauge. I would go further personally, and especially when going for tight clearances with thinner oils like many modern race engines.
Thank you for the video on this! I greatly appreciate the insight! With that being said, my dial bore gauge left some marks (they look like fresh metal marks) on the con rod bearing when checking it. Would this still be okay to still run these bearings even with the lines showing up on it? First time using a dial bore gauge to test bearing clearance and I want to make sure we don't jack up the bearings just checking them 😅 Thanks again for the vid!
That auto focus is struggling here, but great video... we are about to attempt to install new rods and pistons into a LY7 and needed to know how to measure clearance... guess I'm out to buy some tools!
Great vid on precision measuring! I will be using this when teaching my Auto Shop class at Boerne Champion....fwiw we have mainly Fowler tools. Dunne says HI!
I've never built a engine before so I'm trying my hand at plastegua%ing a 350 crankand I notice the front main bearing didnt mash the green plastiguage can I get a new biger bearing to mash the green plastguage.for that bearing
Okay let me stop you about your tension against the rod journal. The little knob at the very end of your caliper is your tension. When you turn that and the caliper stops moving it clicks because that's the set tension you want that caliper to have against the material. Once that clicks you move it to see if there is more tension or less tension anywhere else. Use your tools correctly and they'll save you every time.
Not really required, some people prefer them, others like to feel the actual thimble when it stops. As long as you're consistent and that translates into all your measurements you should be good.
So once you've torqued those rod bolts to spec, when you take them back apart you may need new ones as some of these bolts (BMW M20 engine )can only torqued once. How do you get around that?
I am curious about the rod bolts. When you replace the rod bolts, is it OK to do this testing then to remove the nuts/caps and reinstalling back into the cylinder?
The rod bearing is typically not even close to round or flat across the face. What is the clearance that matters on the rod bearing? Middle (max) or outer (min)? And also where radially - perpendicular from parting line (narrower) or closer to parting line (wider)?
Using the micrometer method is wrong. You have to use ratchet stop instead of timple. The purpose of ratchet is to apply same force whoever may be using the micrometer.
It happens. I have the same Mitutoyo bore gauge, and I removed one of the internal springs, because it applied too much pressure. Marks will always be there. Gouges should not.
Great video! When measuring the connecting rod bearings, are those the actual bearings that you use in the engine when assembling? Just asking because I dont want to potentially damage a new set of bearing shells. Thanks for the info, can't wait for the next video!
I have some telescopic bore hole gauges. Would I not be able to use it and then measure it with the Micrometer? Probably better with the bore gauge I think. Thanks so much for your wealth of knowledge. B
Telescopic gauges suck for this purpose. Get a dial bore gauge, and get one that reads .0001". May as well be using plastigage with anything less. (Don't get me wrong, a zillion engines have been put together with Plastigauge, but it isn't performance precision. I have found that the stuff reads a full thousandth tighter than actual clearance while experimenting on the same short block. ex. .002" w/ PG = .0029-.0031 with my dial bore gauge.)
هو المطلوب اكبر قدر من الدقة في الخلوص بين الكام شفت وعمود البستم ومكان حركة عمود الكرنك فالقياسات يجب تكون لها قاعدة ثابتة في القياس يعني ارقام مسبقة للقياس انت لم تقولها ولم تعطيها
Question: I just pulled the motor from an Audi A6 3.0 V6 . I pulled it because it sounded like Rod knock, but when I broke the motor down the only bearing that looks messed up is the front most of the four (front of the car) don't know what that particular bearing is called . I mean I know it's a main bearing, but I thought maybe they had technical names for their exact location. The bearing is seized around the crank. Could that make a rod knock sound? The sound was only under load and there were no codes and I checked everything as I broke it down and can see no other problem.
Thanks for the info. Nice video. However, I think you rushed it at the point of showing how much actual clearance was determined, while looking at the bore gauge, and the needle was sweeping. Some might not have caught on that you're looking for the maximum amount of deflection in a clockwise direction from 0. Have you ever discussed the condition of main caps, and what their condition indicates? For example, I have one main cap that has surface (bearing side) ever so slightly rough (maybe spun bearing?), while another main cap, which I think was at #1, looks like it was polished, almost chrome. What are these cap surfaces telling me?
I really really need to see how to trim a cam button a bearing button not the nylon. A diy technique with a bench grinder or whatever. And maybe checking the proper clearance. Please
I get it. It takes time and practice to truly understand what these tools do and how to properly use them. The video is accurate, meaning the UA-camr does not mislead the audience, but there's something very different and vastly more helpful about having someone show you how in person how to use a micrometer and bore gauge (dial, like this one, or digital). I had a friend show me in person last weekend and then I spend a week using it. It was a day or so of using the tool on my own before I truly had a feeling of confidence I was using it correctly. Amazing what sitting alone in a garage with some tools and some spare time can teach us. ...and UA-cam too!
What clearance would you recommend for a turbo ls? Iron block running summit ls pro forged crank and rods currently have extra clearance shells on top and bottom on mains and rods. Aiming to hit 1k+ is 0.003 too loose ?
Building an engine is actually very simple.. building it correctly and measuring all of the clearances and figuring out bearing sizes can get complicated.
Man when that micrometer was extra tight on that journal and it caused it to squeak it sent a shiver down my spine lol
I work for cat an do this a lot , most people have it over tight an scratch it 😬.
was about to watch this video but when i saw this I'm backing out.
If you think you're scratching the crank that easy then......well idk what to tell you then, it wasn't a sharp edge, it was flat on flat and there both hardened, am I the only one thinks that was no big deal?
not what you do, you aneak up on it, and have to have the right feel. you can change the reading by using too much force
That's the only reason I came to the comments
I'm glad I found somebody that's willing to share their knowledge. I am getting ready to redo the bottom end of my Duramax and I am having trouble talking to people about how to do it because all they care about is making money on it and they want to do it themselves and not share any knowledge so I can learn.
This is way late at but how did your Duramax build go. I'm looking to do mine real soon, a little nervous, but want to tackle mine myself also
You remind me of myself when l was working in a machine shop 35 years ago. Great explanation.
I absolutely love the channel and the videos, I think if you made a video going through the entire build process for an engine step by step from bare block fresh from the machine shop and breaking it up into parts would be good.
Man oh man! Thank you so much again! There's people out there who charge hundreds of dollars for classes on this and you take the time out of your day to pass this on for nothing. Thanks to you, I'm doing my own cam bearings, file fitting my own rings, and now my bearing clearances. Teacher, will you show me the correct way of taking piston to valve clearance and choosing the proper head gasket to achieve the desired clearance and how to calculate compression ratio?
I love these kinds of videos, and engine building videos in general. Literally all I watch.
Humble and to the point! best vid on this subject I have seen after watching many of Wich leave out detail.
Wow, thanks!
Absolutely love where your goin with the channel! Get stoked when i get a alert that you have posted a new video. Time to get learned 😁
Awesome! Thank you!
If you think about it, if you're just an engine builder, the manufacturers of the parts your using do all the work for you. All your doing is making sure all the parts go together correctly.
You'll be surprised how off alot of parts are
Thank you sir, i watched a ton of you tube videos and yours was by far the best straight and to the point.
Or you could use the part on the end that spins free of the other spinny bit. Thats how you properly adjust to the correct measurement without putting the micrometer under tension.
I like how you explained it a little better if not a lot better than some of the other ones I saw on UA-cam. It's been over 25 years since I mess with a dial bore gauge and Mic set. I usually throw the motors together with the bearings as they are without checking really. Unless I run into a problem where it's too tight. But with this performance build I'm doing with a LS3 and LSA supercharger I'm going to make sure everything's correct.
I'm a total poindexter when it comes to this stuff, so I appreciate you taking time to create these tech tips!
I love your videos and I love your channel.
Keep the videos coming!
I do want to say, when determining the diameter of the journal, you should be using the rachet at the end of the knurled gripe. This is setup to slip once the correct "tightness" is determined and the measurement can be taken. Turn the rachet until it stops, lock the spindle in place and that's the most accurate way to get your measurement.
your right about how hard it was to gain knowledge a few years ago i appreciate these videos
Clear and precise!! Jacob you sure make it seem like you know what you are doing!! Great job!!
I watched this video in its entirety.. do I get my certification for being a semi professional amateur engine builder with my rotating assembly now??
25 years old and this engine builder sharing knowledge of 75 years worth!!
Great job Jacob! Thank you! Keep it coming!
R.I.P. crank journal at 4:21 lmaooo
Jokes aside this is really good informative video, thank you👍
R.I.P journal and mic...lol.
Guys, please don't do that to your micrometers. Gently find the center (highest points) on the material, then gently twist until both sides make contact and you cannot close the micrometer any further. As a machinest I appreciate you recommending micrometers, but that is not how you use them and will ruin the precision by doing that.
take 1/2 the bearing put it on the crank get a sharpie and draw a line on the crank on both ends of the bearing then you have a great start every time to mic the center of the crank
Nice video.. plasti gauge method is relatively easy
Thanks for the info and advice 👍
BTW, if you need a micrometer specifically for tubing or tube type materials, they make special anvils and micrometers to make it easier when trying to find the high points. A 10th mic with gently hands works fine (.0001 accuracy and calipers will be good for .001 accuracy) Mitutoyo and Brown and sharpe are 2 of the best.
Something that misleads a lot of people.
It looks good that there's a 50 millionths *resolution*, but that doesn't mean it's that accurate. My 0-1" Mitutoyo, according to the calibration sheet, reads +.00005" at 5 different measurements other than 0. Unsure on my vernier ones, .0001" resolution, but I'm sure they're anywhere in the +- .0001 throughout the measurement range. It's not much, sure, but it can be the difference between something in tolerance or out.
I'm now a UA-cam certified mechanic, Thanks UA-cam University 😂👍
Thank You for the video .. im just starting my first build so your videos are super helpful
great video.
Thank you for the vid and break down.. it does simplify things
That's one way to do it, but I prefer to take multiple readings around the journals, average them, and check out of round or taper on the journal. Taking one point doesn't give you the whole picture. For a relatively loose race deal with .001" clearance per inch of journal diameter, this method works, and is better than Plastigauge. I would go further personally, and especially when going for tight clearances with thinner oils like many modern race engines.
Really well explained and a great video to learn from thank you for helping people like me to understand the process
you do great videos thanks
Great video like always,,,thank you for your time & knowledge of engine building,,,much appreciate d,,,cant wait for the next vid,,,
Love Your Vids, Helps Me With Schooling Rn Big Time ! 🙏🤟 Always Something To Learn
Thanks for a clear explanation.
Great video and to the point.
Love your stuff man! Very knowledgeable and helpful! Keep it up
Great video, keep them coming mate 👍🏻🇦🇺
Yow you make it look so simple I like it keep it up
Plastguage would be better for diy people. No micrometer needed. Most people would not be able to use those tools. It takes time to develop a feel.
Nice video, simple and very helpful.
Thank you for the video on this! I greatly appreciate the insight! With that being said, my dial bore gauge left some marks (they look like fresh metal marks) on the con rod bearing when checking it. Would this still be okay to still run these bearings even with the lines showing up on it? First time using a dial bore gauge to test bearing clearance and I want to make sure we don't jack up the bearings just checking them 😅
Thanks again for the vid!
Tks alot !! great job !!
Good video
That auto focus is struggling here, but great video... we are about to attempt to install new rods and pistons into a LY7 and needed to know how to measure clearance... guess I'm out to buy some tools!
Great vid on precision measuring! I will be using this when teaching my Auto Shop class at Boerne Champion....fwiw we have mainly Fowler tools.
Dunne says HI!
Very cool!
Thank you for your videos. Cheers 🍻
I've never built a engine before so I'm trying my hand at plastegua%ing a 350 crankand I notice the front main bearing didnt mash the green plastiguage can I get a new biger bearing to mash the green plastguage.for that bearing
Okay let me stop you about your tension against the rod journal. The little knob at the very end of your caliper is your tension. When you turn that and the caliper stops moving it clicks because that's the set tension you want that caliper to have against the material. Once that clicks you move it to see if there is more tension or less tension anywhere else. Use your tools correctly and they'll save you every time.
Not really required, some people prefer them, others like to feel the actual thimble when it stops. As long as you're consistent and that translates into all your measurements you should be good.
Thank you buddy
Excellent content
Thank you 👍🏼
Why did you use torque specs rather than checking the stretch with stretch gauge on rod bolts
Love it thanks so much
Dented the #8 journal.
Thanks for sharing. 😉👌🏻
Cool video , presented well
Thank you for this video
You’re welcome!
cheers mate love your videos
Its an introduction video, how we suppost to know what, standard 100x bearing means?
So once you've torqued those rod bolts to spec, when you take them back apart you may need new ones as some of these bolts (BMW M20 engine )can only torqued once. How do you get around that?
Superb
Keep em coming
I am curious about the rod bolts. When you replace the rod bolts, is it OK to do this testing then to remove the nuts/caps and reinstalling back into the cylinder?
The rod bearing is typically not even close to round or flat across the face. What is the clearance that matters on the rod bearing? Middle (max) or outer (min)? And also where radially - perpendicular from parting line (narrower) or closer to parting line (wider)?
Great video, need some more tools. (:
Is it normal that horizontal clearance is bigger than vertical clearance ? (0,002 vertical, 0,004 horizontal)
Thanks
Is measurements taken with new or used bearings? Thanks
Using the micrometer method is wrong. You have to use ratchet stop instead of timple. The purpose of ratchet is to apply same force whoever may be using the micrometer.
For rookies
Micrometer plastic gauge and some calipers
TY Good Tech
Everything should have clearance for oil passage EXCEPT for behind the bearings.
Then replace all the bolts that were just stretched to yield as per torquing to spec instructions?
That was a pretty big gouge that you made at 4:21
I'd be paranoid about scratching the bearing material with the bore gauge, lol
It happens. I have the same Mitutoyo bore gauge, and I removed one of the internal springs, because it applied too much pressure. Marks will always be there. Gouges should not.
Do you recommend a tighter clearance for aluminum blocks vs iron?
Great video! When measuring the connecting rod bearings, are those the actual bearings that you use in the engine when assembling? Just asking because I dont want to potentially damage a new set of bearing shells. Thanks for the info, can't wait for the next video!
Yes, I always measure the actual bearings I will be using.
Correct procedure for dialing camshafts in.
I have some telescopic bore hole gauges. Would I not be able to use it and then measure it with the Micrometer?
Probably better with the bore gauge I think.
Thanks so much for your wealth of knowledge.
B
You are introducing more random error by using telescopic gauges.
Telescopic gauges suck for this purpose. Get a dial bore gauge, and get one that reads .0001". May as well be using plastigage with anything less. (Don't get me wrong, a zillion engines have been put together with Plastigauge, but it isn't performance precision. I have found that the stuff reads a full thousandth tighter than actual clearance while experimenting on the same short block. ex. .002" w/ PG = .0029-.0031 with my dial bore gauge.)
هو المطلوب اكبر قدر من الدقة في الخلوص بين الكام شفت وعمود البستم ومكان حركة عمود الكرنك فالقياسات يجب تكون لها قاعدة ثابتة في القياس يعني ارقام مسبقة للقياس انت لم تقولها ولم تعطيها
Question: I just pulled the motor from an Audi A6 3.0 V6 . I pulled it because it sounded like Rod knock, but when I broke the motor down the only bearing that looks messed up is the front most of the four (front of the car) don't know what that particular bearing is called . I mean I know it's a main bearing, but I thought maybe they had technical names for their exact location. The bearing is seized around the crank. Could that make a rod knock sound? The sound was only under load and there were no codes and I checked everything as I broke it down and can see no other problem.
Hi, How accurate and reliable this test is ?
Iv bin looking to find what my clearance should be on my motor. 6.0 LS with a turbo.
Building a 403 ls stroker iron block. What clearances do you recommend? Car will be mostly street car but I will race it on the weekends!
You’re building a stroker engine. Buy a manual….
Thanks for the info. Nice video. However, I think you rushed it at the point of showing how much actual clearance was determined, while looking at the bore gauge, and the needle was sweeping. Some might not have caught on that you're looking for the maximum amount of deflection in a clockwise direction from 0.
Have you ever discussed the condition of main caps, and what their condition indicates? For example, I have one main cap that has surface (bearing side) ever so slightly rough (maybe spun bearing?), while another main cap, which I think was at #1, looks like it was polished, almost chrome. What are these cap surfaces telling me?
I love ur video would like one on one with u via my mail,planning an engine rebuild with my RX 300 lexus engine
What oil clearance needs a high volume pump? I’m building a 408 LS and we are using.001 over bearings. I’m not sure if I need a high volume pump.
Way better than plastiguage! ha ah haha
What about Plasti gauge?
I really really need to see how to trim a cam button a bearing button not the nylon. A diy technique with a bench grinder or whatever. And maybe checking the proper clearance. Please
Vemos nesse vídeo como não manusear instrumentos de precisão e que são tão sensíveis.
😢
Still pretty confused about how and what that dial bore gage was doing
I get it. It takes time and practice to truly understand what these tools do and how to properly use them. The video is accurate, meaning the UA-camr does not mislead the audience, but there's something very different and vastly more helpful about having someone show you how in person how to use a micrometer and bore gauge (dial, like this one, or digital). I had a friend show me in person last weekend and then I spend a week using it. It was a day or so of using the tool on my own before I truly had a feeling of confidence I was using it correctly. Amazing what sitting alone in a garage with some tools and some spare time can teach us. ...and UA-cam too!
What type of end is in the micrometer? Ball or flat?
Flat
Nice micrometer but it's worthless without a calibration sticker on it! And he need to learn feel and temperature differences even holding it in hand.
Calipers are meant to be used for precise measurements, just not for that small measurements
Cuanto. Es. El precio. De un motor. Dodgers 5.9. Reconstruido.
Awesome vids, brother! Is your shop near SA TX?
Yes!
WHAT HAPPEN IF ENGINE BUILDER RESURFACE CRANK AND HE INSTALL STANDARD BEARING AND ENGINE IS INSTALLED?????...
.
Where can we buy these tools you have ?!
Plastic gauge is way cheaper than buying these tools
If my rod bearings is .0015 what size bearings i buy sir
What clearance would you recommend for a turbo ls? Iron block running summit ls pro forged crank and rods currently have extra clearance shells on top and bottom on mains and rods. Aiming to hit 1k+ is 0.003 too loose ?
3 thousandths is good and you’ll want a higher weight oil
Building an engine is actually very simple.. building it correctly and measuring all of the clearances and figuring out bearing sizes can get complicated.
What is the max vtc for the Skunk2 ultra 1 cams for a stock k20z4?