Comicron One Models Progress - Vlogs
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- Talking about the current progress of the Comicron One 3D-Printed models that will hopefully be available for purchase soon!
Robomats and other collectibles (including this once it's available) at Storenvy: atop-the-fourth-wall.storenvy...
T-Shirts can be found here: atop-the-fourth-wall.creator-...
DVDs can be purchased here: kunaki.com/MSales.asp?Publish...
Digital Versions of the DVDs can be purchased here: vimeo.com/at4w/vod_pages - Комедії
Moarte: "Hurry up in there! I need to make some Cthulhus by October 1st."
Recommendation: seek out people who do 3D printing for Warhammer 40,000 models, if anyone knows how to do small, detailed or sized up models right, they are the experts of this stuff.
Last night I dreamed I was watching an alternate version of you from some Flintstonian caveman universe called Lunkara who reviewed bad cave paintings.
"Hello, welcome to atop fourth rock where bad cave paintings smashed with club!"
Looking forward to it
3D printing has sorta Intriqued me. Think you’ll take a look at X-men TAS for a video?
Cool. I wait for these to go on sell.
Of course Linkara gets a 3D printer and starts his own damn toyline. We should've seen it coming, frankly.
Are you going to build a filming model for Comicron One? I know you favor models over CGI
It'd be nice, but realistically I'm not exactly ILM around here so I don't see that happening. XD
Besides, I tend to be fine with CGI for ships because you can do more extensive stuff with it there and it's easier to blend it into scenes. I'm more opposed to CGI for stuff like blood splatters or organic creatures (though of course our tech there has come a long way).
Weill the final product include the minibar?
Possible solutions:
1. Lighting fill instead of grid fill saves time and fillament. Downside is they are more fragile.
2. Second printer (see you got an ender. I recommend an elagoo. Those print incredibly faster than enders)
I currently have THREE different Ender 3 printers. It's speeding up this process, but still. I'd LOVE to get my hands on an Elegoo Max, though I amdit I have no idea where the hell I'd put a printer that size. XD
@@AT4WI got a neptune 4. It works so much better than the old ender 3 pro
Forgot the name - but yeah a Neptune Max is what would be great for huge builds. =)
But yeah, if you say so, I love my Ender 3s.
I've been into 3D printing for a few years and when I heard "30 hours" I inhaled sharply. Sometimes prints can just take way too long to be worth it, so I completely understand. There are times when they clog or something and then you end up wasting tons of hours of print time, not to mention filament. I have an Ender as well and it's the very basic model 3, but I have installed a few upgrades on it like a better hotend and extruder, but there just isn't much that can make it print faster. When it comes to rafts, you can set it so that there is more of a gap between the model and the raft itself, and that can help. If it's still sticking too much, it may help to turn down the heat a bit. If the model itself has a mostly flat surface on the bed, but a few parts that need support or smaller bits touching the bed, you can try a brim for better results. Then again, you probably already know that. I feel your pain when it comes to printing small stuff and having it break or not print properly at all. Then when it comes to pegs not fitting in holes, it's a lot of tolerance issues and sometimes you just have to shrink the peg or expand the hole or just sand the peg down some. I use small metal files of various shapes and sizes when doing so and it gets more precise results. That being said, I'm impressed with what you have made! Nothing I have made comes close to having that kind of nice detail and quality to it, but I don't know much about using Blender or anything, only 3D Builder.
Have you ever considered selling the STL file itself and then have it so fans can print their own? I know Cults3D lets you sell printable models, and there are other sites as well.
Yeah, I'll be selling this and some other models, as well. =)
Commission a ressin print of the smaller guns (for better detail), make a mold, and cast them from liquid resin. You can get mold making kits pretty cheap. Maybe test with an existing filament print before spending the money on a fancy resin print.
Unfortunately, you're a little late - the models have been out for a month or two now. XD
And unfortunately resin isn't good for me. I have no good place for ventilation for resin printing/molding and things are working fine with the 3D printers. =)
ah. I wish you success dude.
Hmm, if you're not committed to filimament printing. I'd say make the move to resin, it's better quality even at smaller scales and making supports for the models is easier.
Also if you're doing it as an unassembled kit then I say scale the model up and break it up into smaller pieces that you can print in groups. The fact the model has filling means more material and more time. But if you're making pieces than when assembled features a mostly hollow interior then you can print them faster and save on material.
If I were in your position I would print a series of interlocking plates to serve as a skeleton and then print the top, bottom, and sides separately and in 2 or three pieces. This would allow increased scale and stronger turrets and tower pieces. Then just make it so they can be glued to the skeleton.
Think of it as an actual model kit, instead of worrying about the engines overhanging as partnof the hull being printed horizontally, print that part of them as a separate piece and orient them vertically.
-Resin is not in the cards any time. Putting aside that I'd need a whole new printer, I'd need a well-ventilated area to use it and that is not an especially great option for me in Minnesota when the best place for that would be my very unheated garage.
-Originally the big V engines and front were going to be their own separately-printed thing so it'd just stack in three pieces, but some reason when booleaning the shape in Blender it created massive modeling errors (yes, I tried to adjust the settings. It didn't help) when trying to slice it, so this was the solution I came up with - given where I cut the parts, it should look relatively seamless once assembled.
-Otherwise I have no idea how to create a "series of interlocking plates" as you describe it. It's an interesting idea, but I have no idea how to do that, especially when I have THIS existing model already.
@@AT4W no worries, yeah resin is great once you got it set up but it demands a lot.
I build a lot of models so I figured I'd explore how they do it. By "interlocking plates" I meant start with one flat piece that's the profile of the ship that will stand on edge and act as the spine, then have a series of slits in it that would allow perpendicular plates with their own slits to slide in and act as ribs. Think of the framing structure of old wooden vessels or those laser cut wooden and cardboard model kits. Then you could print the hull as pieces that would wrap around it and have multiple points of attachment.
It sounds complicated I admit, but it's how Games Workshop does their tank models and they are remarkably sturdy.
Dunno if you're already considered this but one easy way to reduce production time is to just sell the STL file, or maybe outsource some of the printing.
If you want to get tips on model designs I can recommend checking out the miniature hobbyists, like the ones 3d printing alternative models for Warhammer and the like. There's a lot of model makers out there making incredible tiny models with great details.
If you want to go old school there's another alternative to the cannons and other brittle things with little detail and that is to cast 'em in brass or pewter and let us glue them to the model afterwards. It's a hassle, but it will grant the most sturdy result.
Cool.
Two suggestions, First off you could make a silicone mode copy I do that sometimes with some of my action figure hands that made because I use a LED printer right now and that takes forever to uh get ready the printing are fast but it takes forever to get ready so far the longest print that I have listed is about three hours the hands are usually about one hour and that's with multiple but the cleaning process can take up to two to three days hopefully soon I can switch to also a thread printer. Second some of my projects cut down on time because they're not using as much of the product in it granted mines LED so that means it could be that it just takes longer for harder solid projects because I noticed uh some of my projects with holes in them printed a lot faster when they're hauled out so you might want to check on those things. Don't be afraid to ask for help from other circles
Vlogs are back.
Will you make models for the comicron 2?
were do you store all your comics? the shelf in the backround of your videos cant possibly hold all of them can it?
We have a library room in our house. =)
"I'm getting back to doing, y'know, VIDEOS!" But is this not a video you just uploaded?
(I'm being facetious. I know you mean the reviews and stuff, what your channel is really for.)
Have you ever thought about creating Linkara figurines in the style of the plastic army men toys?
maybe make the ports 5 millimeters, just like transformers figures have
So, how was Kassandra Killjoy?
Go from initial anti-monitor body to streamlined design
What's your infill percent? Adjusting that might be a way to cut down on print time. If your slicer let's you adjust infill design, that might also work. Unfortunately, to get really fine details, you're probably looking at a resin printer, which would be more expensive and has to be vented properly so you don't die of resin fumes.
The test prints were set at 7-10 percent. I was hoping to get it up to at least 15-20 for the actual sold ones because I want them to have some weight, but I know how that affects print time.
@AT4W Unfortunately, size is really the only variable left. Unless you adjust print speed, which significantly hurts detail quality.
Maybe 3d printing a master model and making a mold to pour resin? But then you have long cure times...
I do not have a resin printer and I'd have to buy one and I am disinclined to do so. There's no good place for the ventilation for it except my unheated garage. And I live in Minnesota. XD
Good luck.
3d printers are great for prototyping and short runs but they’re not very good for full production runs
Personally I’d look into vacuum forming. I know, I know but it’s simply not feasible to print like that
will you be doing comicron 2 and starting a (star trek first contact conference room style) display -in gold---you could also do neutro. Also i don't mind however long it takes my modeling stuff is backed up into next century so take your time i an wait.
Not planning on Comicron 2, but that might be a thing in the future. Gold is a possibility, but gold PLA can be tricky depending on the shapes I make with it.
@@AT4W well considering all the times you have to have a meeting with your team -you could make a good old star trek style conference room and set it up like that one -also you could just paint them gold with some gold paint vacuum metal plastic paints that make it look like metal tend to break down after a while -see any transformer toy made with it or gold plastic syndrome in general. Plus they did something similar in mass effect 2-3 and i think it might be something you could add.
Once you have the 3D Printed model, 1. What will be the price? 2. Will you have option of custom color Comic Chron 1 available when you start selling these in your store?
Given the time and material costs, probably $30. I can actually make MULTIPLE Robomats from a single roll of PLA, but this will require more material, sadly (still less than a single roll, but a good chunk of it), and I have to budget for that.
Custom colors are probably out for these because of the time costs.
@@AT4W oh well not a big loss, I’m looking forward to the 3D printed model once it’s been finalized and polished to be sold in your store.
Recommendation: Resin 3D Printing. (Not to use for this, but to look into.)
I'd have to buy a resin printer and I have no safe place to use it except for my unheated garage. In Minnesota.
@@AT4W you could get a space heater for the garage
So when can we expect the Linkara action figures?!? Seriously, I will buy one.
Take my money meme. 😐💸
Probably a while. XD
Comicron One was relatively easy to put together because I was working off an existing model to match things to, it's mostly boxes and making indentations with boxes, and a relatively rigid combined form.
Action figures run the problem of articulation, trying to match my likeness in some capacity, decisions about what each segment is made out of, painting, etc. And while I COULD use some pre-existing models as a baseline (which do exist for free for people to make their own), it's still a loooot more work than I currently am capable of. XD
is it too late to ask for a life size model of the ship
...That might be a bit pricey.
@@AT4W 10,000,000 Patreon tier
30 hours is insane. ender 3 is pretty old i guess. might need a couple bamboo minis to get the numbers/speed/detail. And defiantly feel you on the resizing things on the model
I have three different Ender 3s - a v1, a v2, and an S1 (as well as a Voron 0, an old Prusafarm, and two Monoprice Select Mini v2, all in various states of repair at the moment) and they still work great, but yeah - the multicolors I want are the Bambu Labs ones. I REALLY want a P1S, but I'd settle for the A1 to get the job done (assuming it doesn't explode XD)
im waiting on the multiple head printers instead of changing filament into one head. prusa xl will move to cheaper printers soon enough.@@AT4W
@@AT4W
also love my x1c but taller prints need a brim or they get yeeted off the build plate.
@@AT4W I don't think that you'd be missing out much by going with an A1 once they've dealt with the obvious issue. I sent my A1 back, but boy howdy as soon as the replacements are back in the shop I'm buying said replacement. The size and shape for it and the AMS lite combined make it more attractive to me than even the P1 models. In the just-about-a-month that I had it, I got more completed good prints off of it than I have in the prior nine years between my Solidoodle Press and my original-model Ender 3.
Like, I REALLY can't recommend it enough.
Would you be willing to sell the 3d files so people can print on their own if they wish?
Planning on it! Just want to get the models at an acceptable state FOR printing beforehand (though planning on at least releasing the Robomat and Pollo files ASAP since they're perfectly ready). XD
I’d buy a comicron 1 keychain not gonna lie 🤣
Space ship! D:
"Boner" indeed, sir.
But really, that's some nice work there on those models. What did you say you used for material you put in the 3D printer?
PLA!
Looks like we'll be needing some gunpla for assistance here...
Just a spitball idea here... But what about making silicone resin molds, instead of 3D printing. I would imagine that that process might be better manageable than mass 3D printing. Print a negative casting mold for your parts. Poor the resin into it. Let it harden. And you have your figures! The more casting molds you print, the more molds at a time you can cast. I think Silicone Resin may also be cheaper when bought in bulk then 3D filament is. (Don't quote me on that). It certainly works faster that printing larger scale figures, I would imagine. Just an idea...
I don't have a resin printer, I have no experience working with resin, and I don't have a good place to do resin material safely.
Not a resin printer. Just resin liquids. You can use your 3D printer to make the negative casting molds. Fill them up with the resin. Wait for them to harden and you have your molds. Same principal as the old plaster casting toys from the 80s.
Okay, this is not the best example of doing this. But it should give you an idea of what I mean.
ua-cam.com/video/gAkpFRBPenA/v-deo.html
Just saying I could see it as a transformer/megazord
I know you put allot of work into the sculpt, but what if you approach the project differently. Why not make the ship cute chibi style? Big chunky guns, rounded sides, etc.
Might be fun down the line, but I'd prefer a more accurate print for its first merch. =)
Get a resin printer?
-You are late to the party as everything is done and I have been selling the models for a few months now.
-There is no good place in my home for a resin printer since it requires ventilation. The only place would be the garage, which would not work because I live in Minnesota and winter can last six months sometimes.
....thought for a moment this was a titan I backed on kickstarter.
I prefer resin printing...but that can be messy.
I have a filament printer, but its just....no.
Too bad he can't just make the thin parts outta metal wire covered in plastic.
Worked out in the end, at least. =)
I’ve been watching the history of power rangers videos I was wondering if you were going to do Dino thunder or mystic force ?
I technically already have, they just aren't up because I need to rewrite, rerecord, and re-edit them.
@@AT4W awesome I can’t wait !