You can increase filament printing by using a smaller nozzle like a .2mm and reduced layer height of .05mm - .08mm. With better material removing supports from an FDM print like PLA+ will reduce the chance of breaking parts. I printed and all my minis ended up breaking in resin while my FDM is much more impact resistant and less brittle/fragile.
100% I am printing mi minis in my ender3v2 at 0.08 with a .2 nozzle, it takes a lot of time but damn they come out amazing, of course resin would look a lot better, but at 0..08 height with the .02 nozzle as soon as i apply a thin coat of primer, 99% are gone, and i only file sometimes under some parts or at the very top of when some layers are a lot more noticible... i got some minis to look like resin printed ones after painting, it is a lot of work to get to this quality but while i don't get my resin printer, it works amazing! If they had taken a bit more of time calibrating, fine tuning and printing at theese setting or enven a .05, it would look a lot closer in their comparisons. specially when those minis where quite "big"
My good friend bought an excellent FDM printer for around $1,500.00 (US) and I have a Saturn 2 Resin printer. What we noticed is this. The Resin printer when printing miniatures looks like something you would buy from a store, if not a bit better. The FDM printer is decent but you can tell it was printed and not molded. However the FDM printer, like you said is on a huge build area and can mix in different colors to do some cool terrain. Now even say 72mm larger prints look significantly better on the Resin printer. I guess where I am going is this. If you want a miniature that looks professional then you need a resin printer today. If you don't care that much and just want something that looks good (not great), and you want to print out larger models, not worry about Resin, then FDM is the way to go. For me it wasn't even close I want quality. For my friend it wasn't even close he wanted less mess and decent quality. I will add that if you are getting into this as a hobby, then you will probably print out a bunch of stuff early on, but then slow way down. So keep that in mind also. If you are a Pathfinder/D&D player I am sure either would work for you, but again if you are printing out your character from say Titan Forge or Hero Forge, then I might lean heavily toward a Resin printer.
What I dislike about these videos is not showing the resin process including all PPE you need and don't forget the smells and fumes.... Don't get me wrong, I like resin printing, but it isn't as simple, neat, or as clean as FDM. I am not sure why when it comes to 3d printing everyone hides how much of a disaster resin in when it comes to messes.
As someone who printed in resin before but turned to FDM I 100% agree with you. I had a lot of failed prints with resin, and the cleaning and curing were a big deal. I switched to FDM and I have not regretted it one moment.
If you have a wash and cure station next to your printer than it doesn't take alot of time at all and is a minor inconvenience. I don't know why Loot and other companies skip out on a wash station and prefer to manually wash them with that small hose tool. 4 Mins in the wash station. Gently dry with paper towel and then 2-4 mins in a cure station and you're good to go.
It would be nice if they showed a side-by-side between fdm and resin with a dialed-in fdm printer. I’ve definitely gotten way better results than this, and I’m a rank amateur.
Resin will always have better details. No FDM printer would ever beat a Resin printer when it comes to that. FDM will produce inferior products but save you money overall on filament. Bigger models can be more costly with FDM printers due to the amount of filament wasted on supports
@@williamstevenson9480 I don't think anyone ever claimed FDM wasn't worse. The question is by how much, and in this video FDM prints were clearly a bit...suboptimal. In 4 years of FDM printing I have never gotten such terrible quality out of a print, I don't even know how I could make it look that bad intentionally.
Same here. Those fdm prints look atrocious. I have a bone stock ender 3 V2 that I get better prints on with.. and get this, no leveling after 50 hours of continuous prints. Still better 😂 this has to be an ad for the anycubic resin printer
@@williamstevenson9480we know that. Obviously. It's the fact that we get better fdm prints on a old as shit ender 3 that hasn't been leveled for weeks of prints. This just took the detail gap and made it extraordinary by not having a dialed in fdm printer. Whether it be from incompetence with fdm printers or just a way to sell ppl on the anycubic will take further scrutiny than I am willing to do.
I have both types. I prefer printing miniatures or statues with my resin. Even if I have to cut it into several more pieces to print large scale, I find the cleanup and finishing easier and faster. With fdm you have a lot of time finishing the print. From sanding, filling, and just general prep to get to the point of painting, is time consuming and messy. I use my fdm printer for parts and functional items and the resin for display pieces.
FDM for most environmental architectural pieces, resin for miniatures. Gotta love how cheap printers have become and the quality and reliablity of the Bambulab FDM printers is just absolutely nuts.
@@nadiryoussef3035 FDM. It's safer, cleaner, and faster to get started making parts with it than resin printers. You need dedicated ventilation to run a Resin printer indoors, that and a cleaning station, respirator, and UV box. FDM safety protocols are simply: 1, Place printer in room with Fire alarm. 2, Push scraper AWAY from self when removing Prints. 3, Don't eat the filament.
Bad printing with FDM is due to wrong layer sizes or wrong slicer settings. I have both types of printers and currently only use resin printing for crystalline items.
@@elprogoodbg5872 they're pretty easy to file down and primer over, mostly. A lot of prints I see from cheaper resin printers are theoretically much higher resolution, but often look kind of rounded off and spongey which isn't much different to using thick primer.
I have both, fdm and resin printers, Is true there is a noticeable diference, yet I can't imagine what you did to get a filament print that look that bad
My thoughts exactly. Cost-wise (outside EU and USA), a larger resin printer, like a Saturn, can end up costing $1000. With the same money you can get yourself a Mars 3 Pro and an a Neptune.
Hello there, I want to print tanks using FDM, but I don't know how much precise I need to be in order to get a good result :/ what printer are you using ?
to clarify on the cost question, SLA setup cost about 3x the cost of FDM setup. 1. the cost of SLA printer is similar to FDM printer or at least you can buy printers at similar price ranges 2. but SLA printer require a LOT more additional stuff like: a) Wash n Cure station - because uncured resin is toxic b) Respirator and facemask - needed for safety c) 95% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol - you need at least 1 gallon to start, i recommend 2 gallons d) garage or ventilation - you need a proper ventilation system or a garage dedicated to 3D printing to keep the fumes away from your family e) enclosure and heater - resin print best in temperature controlled environment AND still ventilated. thus, a fire-resistant enclosure is needed with a mini heater inside of it. be very careful that resin is toxic and 95%/99% alcohol is highly flammable. alcohol also vaporize at 20C or room temperature. due to the need to handle materials properly, there is a lot more added cost to SLA printing than FDM printing. i own both type of printers, and i would recommend SLA to those who is prepared to deal with problems. for those who are lazy or live in a condo where ventilation isn't possible, then FDM is your only option.
If all you're printing are miniatures, then it makes sense to go with a resin printer. But if you're going to print more than that, FDM is the way to go. There's even ways to make your miniatures print with incredibly detail despite it being FDM. I made the mistake of getting a Resin Printer not knowing how much you have to do in post processing. With an FDM printer, the only post processing I have to do is clip off the supports and its off to spraying it with a primer as opposed to the much more active and hands-on post processing you have to do with a resin printer. Come to think of it, its months since I did something with my resin printer.
Get both. If you are serious about mini printing you will have a resin printer. From there it's an easy jump to a cheap but good $200 FDM printer. The FDM will be great for terrain or larger functional objects.
I think it's also important to note the quality of your printer, either the Resin or the FDM different companies and different qualities make a huge difference, Also to have a good compairison, you should do them in the same layer height with printers that are tuned corectly. The FDM prints you have shown, are definately not tuned at all.
Setting the FDM printer to low quality and then showing it right of the bed without cleanup, compared to resin prints that have been cleaned up, sanded, primed, painted, and finished, isn't really a fair comparison. Setting FDM printers to high quality, using a small-diameter nozzle, quality filament, and small layer lines will produce pretty nice results, particularly after the supports have been removed, sanding, priming, and painting. That would have been a better comparison. Not everyone wants to deal with the mess, PPE, hazmat, fumes, washing and curing cycles required for resin printing. There's no question, resin produces the best detail, but you should accommodate the large number of people who don't or can't resin print by showing high quality minis and structures with FDM, like the Lady Harpy video you did.
Hmm. So they finish and paint the resin, but just display the fdm as-is? And besides, that is a LOT of stringing. Methinks they set their fdm printer up wrong...
100% I could not help but think "unfair comparison" when looking at those FDM figures. Something was clearly wrong in the setup to get that much stringing and that many quality issues on the FDM figures. This video is not that old (based on the publish date) but those FDM prints look like they are from a DIY hobby printer from 8 years ago. Today's FDM's do a MUCH better job than that which is show in the video.
@@maituilai To my eye the test was not for "speed" but rather, as a simply quality test. There's no doubt resin printers are still printing smoother figures for miniatures but the FDM side of her test was FAR from a fair comparison. If you are going to do a quality comparison then you throw time out the window and set each printer up correctly to produce and optimal print.
ive done a lot better quality on my fdm than what you posted at 4:27. Looks like you need to go through your settings better. Granted I can get really nice looking ones off my resin, i feel like that's not a great effort for example.
You did FDM printing really dirty here. The minifigures you show made by the FDM printers are very rough (4:24). There's either something wrong with the filament you used, or the specific 3d printer is not that good, cause the bridging is very bad and there are extremely many gaps in the final print. Also, the specific filament that you used really over-exaggerates all the imperfections and individual layers of the object. Try a new silky filament maybe...? Not to mention the resin is also already smoothened, painted and shadowed, while the FDM figure is left looking rough... I'm not saying that just because I am a fan of FDM printers, but also because with some tuning, I managed to get way better results on small objects with a Bambulab A1.
Nice video. You forgot to mention that FDM prints are generally more resilient while resin prints are more brittle and if you drop them they are more likely to shatter.
@@cjlake5754Tbh,I like the idea of both. I kind of hope that FDM keeps improving to the point of, say, a current 4k resin printer because it cuts like plastic and glues like plastic. If I end up good enough as a printer, I probably want to eventually print Titans and have heard the best combo is FDM for the frame and resin for the outer plating.
Modern FDM printers are 6-8 times faster and twice the quality now. Wish this was a comparison to show the real advantages of FDM. speed, volume, cost. Anything small like a miniature that needs. Lots of small details will be superior on resin, large scale, terrain. You would be crazy to print in resin, unless it needs super detail like architectural models or a tree with leaves idk
This is the answer. Miniatures CAN be printed on FDM, but they won't hold a candle to a tuned modern resin printer. But things like terrain, engineering parts, or even that dragon she printed are great candidates for tuned FDM printer.
One point is the geometry of the model. If you want a good mini, FDM can do that. BUT: the pose and the small parts shouldnt go under 2mm to avoid print fail. So the simple answer is BOTH PRINTER. It depend on what you need. You need upgraded token and so simple pose mini can do the job? even FDM is a choice. If you need high quality mini, hyper detail and smal parts Resin is mandatory.
Hi Loot team. Great to see you talking about Filament and resin printers side by side. I wish you would offer supports compatible with FDM for at least your bigger terrain pieces. Yourpresupported terrain would work just fine on an FDM printer, but your supports are too fine for 0.4m nozzle near the top.
when you talk about time to print - you need to give 2 options: pure print time, and print time with post process. Post process with resin printer is so painfull and dangerouse at the same time. But you would never get such detailed result by exspensive FDM printer as by cheapest Resin one. So choose is easy. 1. Miniatures and high detailed medium size models - Resin printer 2. Large models or less detailed models for cosplay - FDM printer P.S. Additional if you want printer for amature engeneering purpose (some prototypes or some boxes or some gears and etc) - FDM printer your choice. But my own advise - take one with autobed leveling and as much "Plug'n'play" as you can afford. Because on my own expirience - less you need preparation and post processing - more you would enjoy it and more you would print. Because my Resin printer just collect dust right now (I mostly using 3d printing for engeneering/diy purpose).
Resin gives you much finer quality prints, but it's more of a lifestyle choice with all the hassle it is. I always love the look of resin prints but then am reminded how it's all dangerous you have to treat every piece clean it thoroughly etc. Rather than just print and done.
You also get the added benefit of FDM for functional objects that resin would be too brittle for. I've made several little useful objects and fixes with the FDM. I can't say my resin is that useful, but it does produce beautiful models.
Yep i do this but a couple of years ago i did minis on a ender 2 pro with a .3 nozzle an fat dragons profile and 28mm/32mm figures came out surprisingly good. Only reason i got a resin printer for minis was i can print 16 on a S2 in the same time the fdm prints one.
I really want resin but there are some turn offs about it. 1)The chemical safety and cleaning involved. 2)That "tug-of-war" between your build plate and that clear plastic shield covering the lcd screen. Some prints can fail because of that. 3) Needing extra machines/steps for washing the prints and UV curing. I live in Florida so maybe I don't need a UV machine and just put things out in the sun lol.
You seem like such a lovable, sweet person! Thanks for making this video! So informative. I have an old Anycubic Chiron and cant decide which printer to go with for an upgrade. Thinking of getting the Creality K1C. Thanks for all the info!
well resin printers can print multiple figures at once faster and with more sharp details, than fdm. FDM is better used for functional prints imo...but this only applies to the context of printing miniatures.
Hello in your video at 5 min 30 there is a big "exo skeleton" that i'd loved to buy !! can you tell me the name and where I can find it please !! overall great video !!
I recently heard about a finderone136 printer, this printer seems to be able to print speed of 200 mm per hour, the recent fire, you can learn about it
At 6:13 - Ah found it. I was curious what exactly this is. (Maybe someone will ask the same: A nail grinder from AISEELY .) I used such grinders at work for metal. With compressed air. Good idea and very good video. Thank you. :)
I think I would go for the one that you were advertising on the right side. Since they come out smoother just in my opinion. Do they have a small version of that one?
I was hoping this was going to be a fair comparison, but it's clearly skewed to resin. Don't get me wrong, for high detail modeling/miniatures, resin is hands down the victor in the final process. But wow at 6:30 mark, it looks like whoever setup the FDM printer put on the biggest nozzle, didn't bother adjusting any settings, and set the speed to max. I've seen some pretty tight work on an FDM and what you printed there looks intentionally bad...
you can really sum it up as small to mid size prints are better in resin and mid to big size prints are better with FDM.. you could obviosly do really big figures with resin it will just take forever and cost a lot
Thanks for the video! However, it should also be noted at this point that the filament prints look very bad (stringy and holey) even compared to other filament prints due to poor calibration of the printer. It therefore seems a bit as if advertising not only for resin printing, but also for filament printing should be badmouthed/made bad.
nice vid. I think you need both, when printing small and large things... I got a question which is a bit off topic: What to do with the resin supports? Is there any way to use it again to craft something with it? Its such a waste of material....
Prusaslicer has lack of support tree, instead Cura has most easily support tree for reduce of difficult removed. I was just used 3d printer FDM for miniatures with dimension middle or big, but I never experienced before for miniatures with FDM printer.
Cura tree supports are rubbish against Prusa slicers organic supports. I changed from Cura as its slow, heavy on my PC and supports where terrible to remove.
Either your FDM printer sucks, you were using wet filament, or bad settings. Yes Resin is better for minis, but a hi-res, print on a high quality FDM doesn't look as bad as your wizard examples. FDM excels for scenery. Especially if you're going to texture it. If I could, I'd post a picture of a dice tower I've printed w/o even using the highest res settings on my Bambu Lab P1s; it would highlight the layer height and blobs on the one you printed are due to one of the factors I mentioned above, not due to the technology. That being said, yes, resin is the best for minis, no argument there.
comparing the low quality things is one thing. but what if you used a table top character as the baseline and turned up all the settings to max? is there a noticeable difference at that scale?
@@Jointtheartist and start with resin printer, to get toxic fumes inhaled, get sticky shit everwhere, get LDCs replaced montlhy, keep kids and pets away from room where you do this shit and get additional heating for the room, because prints will fail and get the proper way to get garbage out because its toxic. Basically gets you discouraged to even do the 3d printing. While FDM is clean and much more fun. I tried resin printing, and as tempting the details and look are, i would never go into that shit again, im not a fucking Walter White :D
so about 3 weeks ago I got my first FDM 3D printer and I was horrified at your print quality for being long term printers, was going to print out your tavern keeper to do a comparison but not signing up just for that
Hi, for each type of printer, could you tell me what should be the temperature of the room ? I would like to put the printer in my garage which for exemple is now at 14 degre celcius
Saturn 2 and Neptune 3 max so mini's go to my Saturn 2 and anything big goes to the N3 max. I see your Prusa organic supports pop off so easy just like mine do. The dragon head would be done in 1 piece on my max.
Thnx for the video...ive been wanting to buy a 3D printer to learn about this world and i found a new Saturn 8k printer in 300 CAD (225 usd) and im very close to buying it but i was wondering whether i should try fillament first.
well, a resin 3d printer is better for miniatures but also kind of toxic and very difficult and a filament 3d printer is easy but has a lot of problems there is the bamboo labs x1 carboon which is a filament 3d printer that I print in color but uses a lot of filament and also is too expensive
Good video! Btw, if I want to build a Rome colosseum or similar type building, and some toys background. Which one do you prefer. I m new to 3d print. Thanks.
Hi, im new in this world , and im gonna buy my first 3D printer (i have chose resin elegoo mars 4 max 6k). So i have a question... All the things i see on the thingiverse site can be printed also with a resin printer? Especially that things that are functional and make movements.
I just bought a Bembu lab x1c ... ( I have never printed before ) and ... Your Resin results are 20-30% worst, than my 300% Scale (30 cm) dinosaur head. I did not changed any settings, just layer Hight to 0.1 and its so smooth, that you cannot see ANY layers... I am suprised, as I dont even know what filament am I using :D
Great Video! The right tool for the right job. So one would want both printers when $$ is not a barrier. For me, looking to print minis for roll play gaming, I am researching Resin Printers for purchase. Later on, for larger terrain and props, I will invest in an FDM printer. Thank you for the video! Loot On!
A giant thing that this video missed is the amount of time it takes to add supports to resin models. It's nice when you find places like Loot Studios that pre-support their models, but other places you get pre-supported models are not always done well and you need to check them or make your own.Since automated supports suck from resin slicers these steps can add hours of time before you even start printing. It's been a huge reason I print way more FDM than resin.
With lychee I just orientate to an angle I like, detect islands, support all islands with light supports and then support manually adding some extra medium at the major load points (usually very few) All in all takes very little time even with very complex models.
Most resin slicers have auto supports and adding and deleting them are alot easier than FDM supports. I spend less than 20 mins for Chitubox but FDM slicers are a huge hassle. Not to mention the amount of time it takes to cut off supports on FDM models where Resin they can just be taken off with just your hands
@@williamstevenson9480 try Prusa slicer and organic supports they just pop off and you can paint on supports or support blockers so easy. In Lychee (pro) on my Saturn 2 I also paint on manual supports, literately like in this video the organic supports pop off from the model that easy.
You forgot to mention that resin has a terrible smell and also that it's toxic. You have to take a lot of care before just start printing, unless you want to die sooner.
I think you should have done some finishing touches on the filament prints like you did with the resin ones or just don't do any finishing touches on the resin ones to make it fair.
I think depending on what you wanna do with your printer, I would say FDM is better for big pieces (less details) and Resin would be better for small ones (more details). The thing I keep in mind nevertheless, is the question about how poisonous it is to 3D print. I heard that FDM seems kinda okay, but Resin really needs a high quality filter mask and is a risk for your pets...
Hello . I like your analysis about this two different processes for same things... I am from India Gujarat I am in jewellery manufacturing industry. I have questions for jewellery CAM RPT which process is good for it. Or how can I contact you.
I'm kind of new to the 3D printing and I have a question. I apologize if it seems to be a stupid one... But, Is there a way to recycle the hardened scrap resin after a print? Like melt it and add it back or something? 😬
I saw someone grind it down and mix with adhesive to make a filler paste, but in quantity: no there isn't and it's a shame but even with the waste it's many times more economical than shop bought
Alguém que tenha impressora de resina há bastante tempo poderia informar sobre sua experiencia com a manutenção da mesma? É preciso ficar fazendo substituição de peças frequentemente?
I agree basically in everything, resin for miniatures or action figures is amazing, the best option, but as she said is a big pain in the a..... ONE thing that she should say in the video, specially when talking about price, is that for the same price the printing bed is totally different, you can spend 200 bucks in a filament printer and having a large bed when in the resin one you have basically a postcard... the printer she is using when showing the group of minions wasn't even close to the 200 dollars mark
I don't intend to use the printer to produce final products. I more would like it used as a tool for sculpting and resin casting. Just 3d model a base design for a character, simple structure foundation and print to be used with monster clay instead of dealing with wire and sculpting from scratch and even save on material for larger pieces.
i have a elegoo mars 2 pro. Where is best settings to make excellent miniatures? i use elegoo resin water but i want try Siraya tech . Can anyone suggested me ?
There's no default "best settings" that you can just dial in and print. Adjust the settings to the recommendations that Siraya Tech or Elegoo recommend for the specific printer+resin combo you want to use, then run calibration files and make adjustments to the exposure time until you're satisfied with the results and use those settings for your minis.
I like using my resin printer, however I'm a little upset that loot seems to have stopped slicing their larger figures into smaller pieces to support people with small printers.
On the cost - as you mentioned in the proccesses section, after printing you need to wash your model, which requires you to buy additional large container and resupply your cleaning solution + curing chamber, which (from what i saw at Creality) cost around 1\2 of printer itself (comparing Halot Mage and UW-01)
Judging by the side-by-side comparison pics, it's impressive that the resin printers even apparently automatically paint the pieces as well... ;-)
Loot studios is all about resin printing lol, they dont give a damn about fdm printing , thats sad
😂
This should be top comment
Would you really bother painting an FDM miniature tho
@@kiztime1234 Painting will cover some layer lines, so definitely... Maybe be more likely to want to paint FDM.
You can increase filament printing by using a smaller nozzle like a .2mm and reduced layer height of .05mm - .08mm. With better material removing supports from an FDM print like PLA+ will reduce the chance of breaking parts. I printed and all my minis ended up breaking in resin while my FDM is much more impact resistant and less brittle/fragile.
somehow Prusa Slicer has allowed me to print 0.08mm with a 0.6 nozzle yesterday!
@@barbarosbozkurt758 Nozzle diameter is something entirely different from the layer height
@@looty20-q8q I know, what I meant was Prusa allowed me to use those settings unlike Cura which only allows up to .2 layer height
100% I am printing mi minis in my ender3v2 at 0.08 with a .2 nozzle, it takes a lot of time but damn they come out amazing, of course resin would look a lot better, but at 0..08 height with the .02 nozzle as soon as i apply a thin coat of primer, 99% are gone, and i only file sometimes under some parts or at the very top of when some layers are a lot more noticible... i got some minis to look like resin printed ones after painting, it is a lot of work to get to this quality but while i don't get my resin printer, it works amazing! If they had taken a bit more of time calibrating, fine tuning and printing at theese setting or enven a .05, it would look a lot closer in their comparisons. specially when those minis where quite "big"
My good friend bought an excellent FDM printer for around $1,500.00 (US) and I have a Saturn 2 Resin printer. What we noticed is this. The Resin printer when printing miniatures looks like something you would buy from a store, if not a bit better. The FDM printer is decent but you can tell it was printed and not molded. However the FDM printer, like you said is on a huge build area and can mix in different colors to do some cool terrain. Now even say 72mm larger prints look significantly better on the Resin printer. I guess where I am going is this. If you want a miniature that looks professional then you need a resin printer today. If you don't care that much and just want something that looks good (not great), and you want to print out larger models, not worry about Resin, then FDM is the way to go. For me it wasn't even close I want quality. For my friend it wasn't even close he wanted less mess and decent quality. I will add that if you are getting into this as a hobby, then you will probably print out a bunch of stuff early on, but then slow way down. So keep that in mind also. If you are a Pathfinder/D&D player I am sure either would work for you, but again if you are printing out your character from say Titan Forge or Hero Forge, then I might lean heavily toward a Resin printer.
What I dislike about these videos is not showing the resin process including all PPE you need and don't forget the smells and fumes.... Don't get me wrong, I like resin printing, but it isn't as simple, neat, or as clean as FDM. I am not sure why when it comes to 3d printing everyone hides how much of a disaster resin in when it comes to messes.
You are right and this video adds nothing of value to the discussion
You probably didn’t watch the entire video then. They talk about how the post process of resin 3d printing is more complicated than FDM
As someone who printed in resin before but turned to FDM I 100% agree with you. I had a lot of failed prints with resin, and the cleaning and curing were a big deal. I switched to FDM and I have not regretted it one moment.
If you have a wash and cure station next to your printer than it doesn't take alot of time at all and is a minor inconvenience. I don't know why Loot and other companies skip out on a wash station and prefer to manually wash them with that small hose tool. 4 Mins in the wash station. Gently dry with paper towel and then 2-4 mins in a cure station and you're good to go.
Yup, and I don't know why those FDM printed miniatures looked so bad, I guess something wrong in the filament settings.
It would be nice if they showed a side-by-side between fdm and resin with a dialed-in fdm printer. I’ve definitely gotten way better results than this, and I’m a rank amateur.
Yep, if the surface looks like that without being absolutely buried in supports something's wrong with the printer.
Resin will always have better details. No FDM printer would ever beat a Resin printer when it comes to that. FDM will produce inferior products but save you money overall on filament. Bigger models can be more costly with FDM printers due to the amount of filament wasted on supports
@@williamstevenson9480 I don't think anyone ever claimed FDM wasn't worse. The question is by how much, and in this video FDM prints were clearly a bit...suboptimal. In 4 years of FDM printing I have never gotten such terrible quality out of a print, I don't even know how I could make it look that bad intentionally.
Same here. Those fdm prints look atrocious. I have a bone stock ender 3 V2 that I get better prints on with.. and get this, no leveling after 50 hours of continuous prints. Still better 😂 this has to be an ad for the anycubic resin printer
@@williamstevenson9480we know that. Obviously. It's the fact that we get better fdm prints on a old as shit ender 3 that hasn't been leveled for weeks of prints. This just took the detail gap and made it extraordinary by not having a dialed in fdm printer. Whether it be from incompetence with fdm printers or just a way to sell ppl on the anycubic will take further scrutiny than I am willing to do.
I have both types. I prefer printing miniatures or statues with my resin. Even if I have to cut it into several more pieces to print large scale, I find the cleanup and finishing easier and faster. With fdm you have a lot of time finishing the print. From sanding, filling, and just general prep to get to the point of painting, is time consuming and messy. I use my fdm printer for parts and functional items and the resin for display pieces.
THat's the key. The use will condition one or another
FDM for most environmental architectural pieces, resin for miniatures. Gotta love how cheap printers have become and the quality and reliablity of the Bambulab FDM printers is just absolutely nuts.
That's the point, do you advice a beginner to start with Resin or FDM ?
Yeah sanding and filling really takes a lot of time.
@@nadiryoussef3035 FDM. It's safer, cleaner, and faster to get started making parts with it than resin printers. You need dedicated ventilation to run a Resin printer indoors, that and a cleaning station, respirator, and UV box.
FDM safety protocols are simply:
1, Place printer in room with Fire alarm.
2, Push scraper AWAY from self when removing Prints.
3, Don't eat the filament.
Bad printing with FDM is due to wrong layer sizes or wrong slicer settings. I have both types of printers and currently only use resin printing for crystalline items.
So you can get rid of those vertical lines? Which one is easier to paint over ?
@@elprogoodbg5872 they're pretty easy to file down and primer over, mostly. A lot of prints I see from cheaper resin printers are theoretically much higher resolution, but often look kind of rounded off and spongey which isn't much different to using thick primer.
@@elprogoodbg5872yes you can get rid of the line 0.12 layer height here, wish I could post pictures. Can't see lines on my DND miniatures.
@@Jointtheartist thank you
I have both, fdm and resin printers, Is true there is a noticeable diference, yet I can't imagine what you did to get a filament print that look that bad
Both is an underrated option.
Like for my tanks, vehicles, buildings, etc, print out the body in FDM, and the greebles and the details in resin.
My thoughts exactly. Cost-wise (outside EU and USA), a larger resin printer, like a Saturn, can end up costing $1000. With the same money you can get yourself a Mars 3 Pro and an a Neptune.
Hello there, I want to print tanks using FDM, but I don't know how much precise I need to be in order to get a good result :/ what printer are you using ?
I love fdm so much. Less hazards and the minis come out great with the small nozzle. Resin still looks best for super deatailed art type stuff.
They really did FDM dirty in this video. Depending on the printer you can get really high quality prints.
to clarify on the cost question, SLA setup cost about 3x the cost of FDM setup.
1. the cost of SLA printer is similar to FDM printer or at least you can buy printers at similar price ranges
2. but SLA printer require a LOT more additional stuff like:
a) Wash n Cure station - because uncured resin is toxic
b) Respirator and facemask - needed for safety
c) 95% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol - you need at least 1 gallon to start, i recommend 2 gallons
d) garage or ventilation - you need a proper ventilation system or a garage dedicated to 3D printing to keep the fumes away from your family
e) enclosure and heater - resin print best in temperature controlled environment AND still ventilated. thus, a fire-resistant enclosure is needed with a mini heater inside of it.
be very careful that resin is toxic and 95%/99% alcohol is highly flammable. alcohol also vaporize at 20C or room temperature.
due to the need to handle materials properly, there is a lot more added cost to SLA printing than FDM printing. i own both type of printers, and i would recommend SLA to those who is prepared to deal with problems. for those who are lazy or live in a condo where ventilation isn't possible, then FDM is your only option.
this was very helpful
If all you're printing are miniatures, then it makes sense to go with a resin printer.
But if you're going to print more than that, FDM is the way to go. There's even ways to make your miniatures print with incredibly detail despite it being FDM.
I made the mistake of getting a Resin Printer not knowing how much you have to do in post processing.
With an FDM printer, the only post processing I have to do is clip off the supports and its off to spraying it with a primer as opposed to the much more active and hands-on post processing you have to do with a resin printer.
Come to think of it, its months since I did something with my resin printer.
Get both. If you are serious about mini printing you will have a resin printer. From there it's an easy jump to a cheap but good $200 FDM printer. The FDM will be great for terrain or larger functional objects.
I think it's also important to note the quality of your printer, either the Resin or the FDM different companies and different qualities make a huge difference, Also to have a good compairison, you should do them in the same layer height with printers that are tuned corectly. The FDM prints you have shown, are definately not tuned at all.
Setting the FDM printer to low quality and then showing it right of the bed without cleanup, compared to resin prints that have been cleaned up, sanded, primed, painted, and finished, isn't really a fair comparison. Setting FDM printers to high quality, using a small-diameter nozzle, quality filament, and small layer lines will produce pretty nice results, particularly after the supports have been removed, sanding, priming, and painting. That would have been a better comparison. Not everyone wants to deal with the mess, PPE, hazmat, fumes, washing and curing cycles required for resin printing. There's no question, resin produces the best detail, but you should accommodate the large number of people who don't or can't resin print by showing high quality minis and structures with FDM, like the Lady Harpy video you did.
Hmm. So they finish and paint the resin, but just display the fdm as-is? And besides, that is a LOT of stringing. Methinks they set their fdm printer up wrong...
100% I could not help but think "unfair comparison" when looking at those FDM figures. Something was clearly wrong in the setup to get that much stringing and that many quality issues on the FDM figures. This video is not that old (based on the publish date) but those FDM prints look like they are from a DIY hobby printer from 8 years ago.
Today's FDM's do a MUCH better job than that which is show in the video.
@@neologian1783 but if they setting more for fdm, time to print will get double, right?
@@maituilai To my eye the test was not for "speed" but rather, as a simply quality test. There's no doubt resin printers are still printing smoother figures for miniatures but the FDM side of her test was FAR from a fair comparison. If you are going to do a quality comparison then you throw time out the window and set each printer up correctly to produce and optimal print.
ive done a lot better quality on my fdm than what you posted at 4:27. Looks like you need to go through your settings better. Granted I can get really nice looking ones off my resin, i feel like that's not a great effort for example.
You did FDM printing really dirty here. The minifigures you show made by the FDM printers are very rough (4:24).
There's either something wrong with the filament you used, or the specific 3d printer is not that good, cause the bridging is very bad and there are extremely many gaps in the final print.
Also, the specific filament that you used really over-exaggerates all the imperfections and individual layers of the object. Try a new silky filament maybe...? Not to mention the resin is also already smoothened, painted and shadowed, while the FDM figure is left looking rough...
I'm not saying that just because I am a fan of FDM printers, but also because with some tuning, I managed to get way better results on small objects with a Bambulab A1.
Not to cas any trouble . If you set the filament printer to print at a slow speed it can really do some really nice details
Nice video. You forgot to mention that FDM prints are generally more resilient while resin prints are more brittle and if you drop them they are more likely to shatter.
Let me introduce you to Siraya Tech Tenacious 😁 10 - 20% mixed in to standard resin and it becomes pretty damn tough!
ABS like resin is very durable.
at the moment you can even print rubber on a risen printer...
@@cjlake5754Tbh,I like the idea of both. I kind of hope that FDM keeps improving to the point of, say, a current 4k resin printer because it cuts like plastic and glues like plastic. If I end up good enough as a printer, I probably want to eventually print Titans and have heard the best combo is FDM for the frame and resin for the outer plating.
I mean, FDM IS plastic of course
Modern FDM printers are 6-8 times faster and twice the quality now. Wish this was a comparison to show the real advantages of FDM. speed, volume, cost. Anything small like a miniature that needs. Lots of small details will be superior on resin, large scale, terrain. You would be crazy to print in resin, unless it needs super detail like architectural models or a tree with leaves idk
This is the answer. Miniatures CAN be printed on FDM, but they won't hold a candle to a tuned modern resin printer. But things like terrain, engineering parts, or even that dragon she printed are great candidates for tuned FDM printer.
@@jeffreybowers5646 so larger pieces ?
@@Fallingoverbackwards Mostly, or anything that doesn’t need extremely fine detail on a small area
If you are picking one up for figurines it's a clear choice. Picker and less intricate parts can be a different story and it's more nuanced there.
Resin prints for miniatures are my go-to choice! 🎨🖼️
One point is the geometry of the model. If you want a good mini, FDM can do that. BUT: the pose and the small parts shouldnt go under 2mm to avoid print fail. So the simple answer is BOTH PRINTER. It depend on what you need. You need upgraded token and so simple pose mini can do the job? even FDM is a choice. If you need high quality mini, hyper detail and smal parts Resin is mandatory.
Hi Loot team. Great to see you talking about Filament and resin printers side by side.
I wish you would offer supports compatible with FDM for at least your bigger terrain pieces.
Yourpresupported terrain would work just fine on an FDM printer, but your supports are too fine for 0.4m nozzle near the top.
We need proper FDM support for the props as well! I did the mask from the cyberpunk pack and it took a lot of work to prep it for FDM.
when you talk about time to print - you need to give 2 options: pure print time, and print time with post process. Post process with resin printer is so painfull and dangerouse at the same time.
But you would never get such detailed result by exspensive FDM printer as by cheapest Resin one. So choose is easy.
1. Miniatures and high detailed medium size models - Resin printer
2. Large models or less detailed models for cosplay - FDM printer
P.S. Additional if you want printer for amature engeneering purpose (some prototypes or some boxes or some gears and etc) - FDM printer your choice. But my own advise - take one with autobed leveling and as much "Plug'n'play" as you can afford. Because on my own expirience - less you need preparation and post processing - more you would enjoy it and more you would print. Because my Resin printer just collect dust right now (I mostly using 3d printing for engeneering/diy purpose).
Resin gives you much finer quality prints, but it's more of a lifestyle choice with all the hassle it is. I always love the look of resin prints but then am reminded how it's all dangerous you have to treat every piece clean it thoroughly etc. Rather than just print and done.
Great video for those who don’t know much about 3D Printing
MY take on this is... FDM for Terrain and Resin for Miniatures
Exactly this
You also get the added benefit of FDM for functional objects that resin would be too brittle for. I've made several little useful objects and fixes with the FDM. I can't say my resin is that useful, but it does produce beautiful models.
@@Asytra exactly why I print Terrain with an FDM. Resin is in my workshop just for Miniatures, busts, ect.
Yep i do this but a couple of years ago i did minis on a ender 2 pro with a .3 nozzle an fat dragons profile and 28mm/32mm figures came out surprisingly good. Only reason i got a resin printer for minis was i can print 16 on a S2 in the same time the fdm prints one.
I really want resin but there are some turn offs about it. 1)The chemical safety and cleaning involved. 2)That "tug-of-war" between your build plate and that clear plastic shield covering the lcd screen. Some prints can fail because of that. 3) Needing extra machines/steps for washing the prints and UV curing. I live in Florida so maybe I don't need a UV machine and just put things out in the sun lol.
I have both I save the terrain pieces and some props for the FDM and the minis for the resin printer
You seem like such a lovable, sweet person! Thanks for making this video! So informative. I have an old Anycubic Chiron and cant decide which printer to go with for an upgrade. Thinking of getting the Creality K1C. Thanks for all the info!
Which App shows Prices of Making Objects in 3D printers....Could You please make a video out of it, Thank You
well resin printers can print multiple figures at once faster and with more sharp details, than fdm. FDM is better used for functional prints imo...but this only applies to the context of printing miniatures.
Hello in your video at 5 min 30 there is a big "exo skeleton" that i'd loved to buy !! can you tell me the name and where I can find it please !! overall great video !!
Resin is my preferred method
I just want a super-fast 3D printer that can quickly produce the items.speed is the most important to me
What are the performance features of this machine?
FinderOne136？
So, what high-speed printing devices are available now?
I recently heard about a finderone136 printer, this printer seems to be able to print speed of 200 mm per hour, the recent fire, you can learn about it
Yes!! I know that the FinderOne136 boasts a remarkable printing speed of up to 203mm/h. It's truly impressive@@YiyangJin1002
When multi color printing is ready?😊
best comparison video ever!!!
At 6:13 - Ah found it. I was curious what exactly this is. (Maybe someone will ask the same: A nail grinder from AISEELY .)
I used such grinders at work for metal. With compressed air.
Good idea and very good video. Thank you. :)
I think I would go for the one that you were advertising on the right side. Since they come out smoother just in my opinion. Do they have a small version of that one?
There are many small resin 3D printers. Elegoo has a very good one.
FANTASTIC!! we want more guides and tuts and reviews like this from you guys! Keep it up
I was hoping this was going to be a fair comparison, but it's clearly skewed to resin. Don't get me wrong, for high detail modeling/miniatures, resin is hands down the victor in the final process. But wow at 6:30 mark, it looks like whoever setup the FDM printer put on the biggest nozzle, didn't bother adjusting any settings, and set the speed to max. I've seen some pretty tight work on an FDM and what you printed there looks intentionally bad...
you can really sum it up as small to mid size prints are better in resin and mid to big size prints are better with FDM.. you could obviosly do really big figures with resin it will just take forever and cost a lot
Thanks for the video!
However, it should also be noted at this point that the filament prints look very bad (stringy and holey) even compared to other filament prints due to poor calibration of the printer. It therefore seems a bit as if advertising not only for resin printing, but also for filament printing should be badmouthed/made bad.
nice vid. I think you need both, when printing small and large things... I got a question which is a bit off topic: What to do with the resin supports? Is there any way to use it again to craft something with it? Its such a waste of material....
You can use them as fodder to fill terrain or small gaps!
Thank you for the comparison!! You’re a beautiful human
This is such a wildly loaded video that makes FDM look like trash while simultaneously not wanting me to ever consider a Resin printer...
Prusaslicer has lack of support tree, instead Cura has most easily support tree for reduce of difficult removed. I was just used 3d printer FDM for miniatures with dimension middle or big, but I never experienced before for miniatures with FDM printer.
Cura tree supports are rubbish against Prusa slicers organic supports. I changed from Cura as its slow, heavy on my PC and supports where terrible to remove.
I knew all using a 3D Printer. I am using Bambu lab A1 mini. Where is a good place to start off any models to print? Thank you.
Either your FDM printer sucks, you were using wet filament, or bad settings. Yes Resin is better for minis, but a hi-res, print on a high quality FDM doesn't look as bad as your wizard examples. FDM excels for scenery. Especially if you're going to texture it. If I could, I'd post a picture of a dice tower I've printed w/o even using the highest res settings on my Bambu Lab P1s; it would highlight the layer height and blobs on the one you printed are due to one of the factors I mentioned above, not due to the technology.
That being said, yes, resin is the best for minis, no argument there.
comparing the low quality things is one thing. but what if you used a table top character as the baseline and turned up all the settings to max? is there a noticeable difference at that scale?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Best video explaining this for newbie trying to understand what to buy. Thanks!
More like the worst video for a beginner to discourage them from ever trying FDM
@@Jointtheartist and start with resin printer, to get toxic fumes inhaled, get sticky shit everwhere, get LDCs replaced montlhy, keep kids and pets away from room where you do this shit and get additional heating for the room, because prints will fail and get the proper way to get garbage out because its toxic. Basically gets you discouraged to even do the 3d printing. While FDM is clean and much more fun. I tried resin printing, and as tempting the details and look are, i would never go into that shit again, im not a fucking Walter White :D
so about 3 weeks ago I got my first FDM 3D printer and I was horrified at your print quality for being long term printers, was going to print out your tavern keeper to do a comparison but not signing up just for that
Hi, for each type of printer, could you tell me what should be the temperature of the room ? I would like to put the printer in my garage which for exemple is now at 14 degre celcius
Fantastic comparison video of two invaluable technologies available to the home hobby maker. Thanks for the content and the fantastic 3D-models!
Saturn 2 and Neptune 3 max so mini's go to my Saturn 2 and anything big goes to the N3 max. I see your Prusa organic supports pop off so easy just like mine do. The dragon head would be done in 1 piece on my max.
Hello!! Which software do you use for 3D modelling?
Thnx for the video...ive been wanting to buy a 3D printer to learn about this world and i found a new Saturn 8k printer in 300 CAD (225 usd) and im very close to buying it but i was wondering whether i should try fillament first.
well, a resin 3d printer is better for miniatures but also kind of toxic and very difficult and a filament 3d printer is easy but has a lot of problems there is the bamboo labs x1 carboon which is a filament 3d printer that I print in color but uses a lot of filament and also is too expensive
Your accent is EXACTLY what I would expect from a native Brazilian Portuguese speaker. Wonder now where you're from.
Well, guess you've figured it out!
What are the tubs that you use to clean your resin prints? I’m trying to find something similar and don’t know where to look.
What software are you using for the 3d printing
Awesome video, Hope you can do other video, with comparison wide machines and qualities on market?
Good video! Btw, if I want to build a Rome colosseum or similar type building, and some toys background. Which one do you prefer. I m new to 3d print. Thanks.
Hi, im new in this world , and im gonna buy my first 3D printer (i have chose resin elegoo mars 4 max 6k). So i have a question... All the things i see on the thingiverse site can be printed also with a resin printer? Especially that things that are functional and make movements.
I do resin for smaller minis and pla/petg for my bigger models.
Hi, where i buy the STL for head of dragon?
I mast to know how to use supports so well!
Do you have some video that explains the your supporting method?
I just bought a Bembu lab x1c ... ( I have never printed before ) and ... Your Resin results are 20-30% worst, than my 300% Scale (30 cm) dinosaur head. I did not changed any settings, just layer Hight to 0.1 and its so smooth, that you cannot see ANY layers... I am suprised, as I dont even know what filament am I using :D
Great Video! The right tool for the right job. So one would want both printers when $$ is not a barrier. For me, looking to print minis for roll play gaming, I am researching Resin Printers for purchase. Later on, for larger terrain and props, I will invest in an FDM printer. Thank you for the video! Loot On!
Can we please have a door (a normal one) for the lair of liars dungeon tiles and walls? It would make them into a really useful set.
how do you paint models after printing?
A giant thing that this video missed is the amount of time it takes to add supports to resin models.
It's nice when you find places like Loot Studios that pre-support their models, but other places you get pre-supported models are not always done well and you need to check them or make your own.Since automated supports suck from resin slicers these steps can add hours of time before you even start printing. It's been a huge reason I print way more FDM than resin.
With lychee I just orientate to an angle I like, detect islands, support all islands with light supports and then support manually adding some extra medium at the major load points (usually very few)
All in all takes very little time even with very complex models.
Most resin slicers have auto supports and adding and deleting them are alot easier than FDM supports. I spend less than 20 mins for Chitubox but FDM slicers are a huge hassle. Not to mention the amount of time it takes to cut off supports on FDM models where Resin they can just be taken off with just your hands
@@williamstevenson9480 try Prusa slicer and organic supports they just pop off and you can paint on supports or support blockers so easy. In Lychee (pro) on my Saturn 2 I also paint on manual supports, literately like in this video the organic supports pop off from the model that easy.
That dice tower look OK with the supports on, Think I would have left them and painted them to look like a tree.
You forgot to mention that resin has a terrible smell and also that it's toxic. You have to take a lot of care before just start printing, unless you want to die sooner.
I think you should have done some finishing touches on the filament prints like you did with the resin ones or just don't do any finishing touches on the resin ones to make it fair.
Good comparison of tech. Thx
I think depending on what you wanna do with your printer, I would say FDM is better for big pieces (less details) and Resin would be better for small ones (more details). The thing I keep in mind nevertheless, is the question about how poisonous it is to 3D print. I heard that FDM seems kinda okay, but Resin really needs a high quality filter mask and is a risk for your pets...
oh, thanks for the content, missed the 3d printing videos!
Hello .
I like your analysis about this two different processes for same things...
I am from India Gujarat I am in jewellery manufacturing industry. I have questions for jewellery CAM RPT which process is good for it. Or how can I contact you.
Our field of expertise is for these 2 technologies, UV resin and filament printing, as our focus is the playable and collectible miniatures market 😉
I'm learning about 3d printing and about to purchase my first one, this was very helpful in understanding the differences between FDM vs Resin.
I'm kind of new to the 3D printing and I have a question. I apologize if it seems to be a stupid one...
But, Is there a way to recycle the hardened scrap resin after a print? Like melt it and add it back or something? 😬
I saw someone grind it down and mix with adhesive to make a filler paste, but in quantity: no there isn't and it's a shame but even with the waste it's many times more economical than shop bought
Excellent video! Loved it!
I love your videos ❤ I'm looking forward to them every time🎉🎉🎉
I loved, you explained Very well
Resin of course. Fdm for buildings and larger structures.
Alguém que tenha impressora de resina há bastante tempo poderia informar sobre sua experiencia com a manutenção da mesma? É preciso ficar fazendo substituição de peças frequentemente?
Nao tenho ha tanto tempo, um ano apenas, e ate o momento nenhuma manutencao necessaria...
@@boardz6381 Obrigado pela resposta
I hate resin printing bc of all the curating process. Thats how I started. Almost ruined the hobby for me. Bought an FDM it prints very good.
What is that micro-sanding tool you're using to remove support marks? I'd love to get one for myself.
It's simply called a rotary tool you can get in hardware stores. I use Dremel which is a very popular brand.
Thank you 🫡🙏❤️🥰🤗
I agree basically in everything, resin for miniatures or action figures is amazing, the best option, but as she said is a big pain in the a..... ONE thing that she should say in the video, specially when talking about price, is that for the same price the printing bed is totally different, you can spend 200 bucks in a filament printer and having a large bed when in the resin one you have basically a postcard... the printer she is using when showing the group of minions wasn't even close to the 200 dollars mark
I don't intend to use the printer to produce final products. I more would like it used as a tool for sculpting and resin casting. Just 3d model a base design for a character, simple structure foundation and print to be used with monster clay instead of dealing with wire and sculpting from scratch and even save on material for larger pieces.
i have a elegoo mars 2 pro. Where is best settings to make excellent miniatures? i use elegoo resin water but i want try Siraya tech . Can anyone suggested me ?
There's no default "best settings" that you can just dial in and print. Adjust the settings to the recommendations that Siraya Tech or Elegoo recommend for the specific printer+resin combo you want to use, then run calibration files and make adjustments to the exposure time until you're satisfied with the results and use those settings for your minis.
@@theChistuyou can suggested me settings for elegoo and siraya maybe? i find online some settings for now. thanks so much
@@MattomattiaPagno Elegoo post a spread sheet of settings as a base line to start off from.
Resin ;)
I like using my resin printer, however I'm a little upset that loot seems to have stopped slicing their larger figures into smaller pieces to support people with small printers.
Nice video 👏
On the cost - as you mentioned in the proccesses section, after printing you need to wash your model, which requires you to buy additional large container and resupply your cleaning solution + curing chamber, which (from what i saw at Creality) cost around 1\2 of printer itself (comparing Halot Mage and UW-01)
how will you give colors for this models?, do you have separate printers for coloring
?
We paint them!