Big Garage Floor With Mat Of Rebar (Heavy Duty Concrete Floor)
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- Опубліковано 4 лют 2025
- #EverythingAboutConcrete #MikeDayConcrete
We're pouring and finishing a large concrete floor for a 3 bay garage. We installed a mat of rebar for reinforcement. The concrete floor is 6 inches thick, some flat, and some slopes towards the garage doors.
How to pour a concrete floor for a garage. How to lay-out a mat of rebar for a concrete floor. How to tie a mat of rebar together for a concrete floor pour.
We power-troweled the concrete smooth and sawed joints after troweling.
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You realize how the drivers can be so important and it is evident with how you treat them.
Drivers are almost as important as your own work crew. They can make a job easy or hard. When pouring long drives off the chutes some drivers can drive forward just the right distance for each pass of the chutes that makes leveling so easy but others despite years of experience have what I call "pull-forwarditis" where they always pull forward a foot or two too much.
Watching you guys lay concrete is so satisfying to me.👍🏾
I just poured and finished a 10yd basketball court on Friday, your videos gave me the confidence to give it a go. I bought a secondhand Vibrastrike 2 only because you use it and made wet pads off of grade pins, the entire court turned out better than I could have imagined. Thanks.
You guys work in a fluid way
You guys work in such great rhythm with each other. Skilled talent at its best.
Micro fiber with rebar , awesome 👍👍 nice job there 👍.
Job went smoothly 👍
I used rebar and re-mesh and 5000 PSI concrete in my driveway because I have a 80 year-old 120 foot pecan tree with roots under the drive and I didn't want the drive to break-up. So far, in 39 years, not a SINGLE hairline crack. "Do it right or do it again." -Words of my Great-Grandfather, a REAL carpenter
Less guys.. big floors..and quicker than a pump.. unko mike u make life as a mason way much easier.. nut10 but love for you n ur boys/sumtymes girls..lol shaka from hawaii 🤙
Hi Mike. Enjoy watching your videos. Thanks for taking to time to film and edit. That is a beautiful home and huge garage for sure. Enjoy your Sunday!
Mindbuildingsolutions Approved!
Excellent video and content.
Clean job site! Slick trick sinking the bar into the foundation and then bending. We usually drill then into the rest of the foundation as well at 45 degrees and then tap them down with a mallet.
Great job as always Mike and gorgeous location of that property. Nice jobs to have and especially in nice weather.....
I've been doing concrete 45 years and that is how its done
How do you maintain the level at the middle? If you need to have a kind of degree angle, I need some leaders to do it. How they don't use any or I cannot recognize them?
Wow that is a high slump loose mix but you and your boys know what to do.
Must be nice having all that experience working together
Nice to see the wood raised of the floor with a course of bricks. That will help reduced wood rot if the floor is wet.
Geat job! Hopefully mine will turn out as well on my new 3500m2 terreno in the Yucatan!
I got the same bender works mint
Nice job. I am used to seeing it done with a pump and hoses but you guys had very little trouble working together, tailgating it to the back of the garage.
Mike,i know you don't do rebar that much but in the future you should stagger any splices you have,makes a stronger slab.Also,if you have room in the thickness of a slab you could bury a bar and then brick off that and that ensures you won't have any rebar on the ground due to clumsy fat ass finishers lol.I was a rodbuster for decades and would have tied up that slab in about an hour for ya!
Love that ‘fat ass finishers’ !!!!
Hilarious and TRUE…
Rebar improperly placed and lack of expansion control - not to be confused with control joints
At 1:40 you are saying 10"-12" overlap, IBC says the overlap should be 40 diameters, at 1/2" that is 20" overlap. Is that not a problem on flat floor work? What about footers or knee walls under block walls? Thanks for making this video
For Extra Strength I'd add a mesh a steel mesh in there as well as the rebar.
I don't see very many drains on you pours? Is that an ordinance thing around your area or most people just choose not to install? I did a 12 foot trench drain down the middle of my garage. Can't imagine the mess of an 8 foot truck bed covered in snow with no drain.
A bar lap of 40 diameters, 20" for #4, is a good rule of thumb.
Enjoy your videos. How do you keep the concrete from cracking when you tie it to foundation with re-bar. We have a shrinkage problem here in Illinois and never tie it where it can't move
He called his employees yoyos. 🤣🤣🤣
Just being a bit picky but only the bottom bars should be resting on the support bricks.(We call them mars bars in Ireland) Maybe you didn't want the Matt too high for cover reasons. Love your work.
I've never understood a sloped garage floor unless it slopes to floor drains or if the entire house is the same finish floor elevation. In cold climates the water just runs to the closed garage door seals and freezes the doors to the ground. I've heard multiple reasons and it is code in some areas. Most of the reasons are big "if" scenarios. Flat is the most practical for guys who work in garages.
The slope works, when there is a trench drain just before the door seal.
Otherwise I agree with you.
Nobody wants a stupid sloped floor with a goofy drain running 4’
Guys want FLAT FLOORS just like our 8th grade girlfriends!!!
I’ve been a concrete man for 50 years now. I always struck off all my work, the way you do it would never fly with me!! No Vibrator, No Strike off, How can you continue to achieve quality?!!
They only warranty their work for 1 year.
did you use the vibrastrike models ?
😂😂😂you ain’t done any concrete by yourself!!!!!
My whole family has been doing construction for generations. What I’ve learned is never stop learning different ways. This guy is a legend and has proof and helps other contractors. You’re just a hater who is typing and leaving comments.
We need a 30” over lap here in south Florida for inspection looks like you don’t were you are ?
I wish cold be 30 again and work with you guys for about 10yrs got a quote recently for 4" 24x30 15,800.00
When calculating rebar at 16” on centers, you will use approximately seven bars per 100 square feet. 1/2” rebar is 150 bars per ton. We always buy it by the ton, its cheaper that way
Great job Mike. What is the father's away you will do a job from a c o ncrete plant? Had a cousin here in central WV had 2 truck pour but the trip was two hours away. The pour looked great it was a inside garage pour 2 bays for a pickup and medium size SUV it was a heated floor.
About the same, 2 hours.
Heavy lies the crown
Mike can I get some more info on the midrange please
Mike have you seen the new fiberglass rebar? What are your thoughts on this new product?
I'm having trouble understanding how a slab on grade that will be exposed to whether can be tied into the foundation. Wouldn't the slab heave up due to freezing while the foundation does not? Is it just too dry under the slap to worry about that? What am I missing? Thanks for videos.
Nice job
20:50 Do those gloves come with a battery and charger? 😆
No shovels?????
How do you throw the mud in the low spots?
Now look at them yo-yo's, that's the way you do it. Place the concrete on the MTV.
Love me some Robert Palmer.
That ain't working
You're a good Dad 😆
Lol, nice!
@@mikewest712 except for the fact that it ain't robert palmer,it's dire straits.
Mike, i am a concrete guy myself and i was just wondering if you were asked for bar over wire or if thats something you prefer and if so why , or which do you prefer ?
We were doing what the spec called for on this one. Wire would have been plenty good enough in my opinion. If they're driving heavy equipment in here then rebar is better.
Just a laborer? It reminds me of my first job. My boss was looking for a responsible employee. Once I was hired, I found out that I was responsible all the time, but mostly when things went wrong.
Me too. Lol
I don't know why so many others don't do it like you guys do... that water reducer makes it look so nice to apply and it isn't affecting the strength, if anything it's improving it. Why do people do it the hard stiff way?
Hey Mike, is there a place I can find a list of the video equipment you use in production, similar to the list of concrete equipment you use? Would be much obligated if you would point me in the right direction. Thanks, & keep up the great work!
This is why I prefer composite concrete mixes, you don't know how to rebar perfectly and low quality rebar just causes the concrete to rot, high quality rebar is expensive like composites but takes more time.
If needed I'll do post-tension to hold a slab together through some grade beams.
Mike, why no power screed on this job?
What kind of rebar are you using
Half inch or 12mm in the civilized world. 😂
@@muskerrytram6453 #4 bar in the informed world.
@@psidvicious 🤣
@@muskerrytram6453 ✌👍
Canada is metric, but we use half inch! 😆
Wouldn’t fly in nz. Too large rebar squares, not enough ties or supports. We use pre made mesh sheets, and abs rebar chairs a lot quicker to lay. Should vibrate it as best practice.
Interesting. But the wire ties don’t add any strength. They just keep the rebar in place.
We call them rat tails the tying tool lol in Texas all we use is rebar no wire mesh at all not sure why back in the 90’s we just go use the wire roll
Hey Mike, I’m a concrete guy from the UP of
Michigan and was wondering if you could get me the mix design you use for your flat work? The plants mix up here is terrible! We really don’t know what there using. Thanks
So no one takes the bricked out from below the rebar. Does that cause a potential weakness on the bottom
In Florida we have to have 4” min cover for rebar, in my opinion the rebar should be resting on 4” chairs to maintain integrity.
@thebullgator 4 inch cover plus 4 inch chairs would equal an 8 inch slab, he's pouring a 4 inch slab
@@normanhunter7 yeah that’s the point, it’s a waste of rebar in a 4” slab he’d be better off with welded wire or pour a waffle slab
What type of Styrofoam can be walked on like that without damaging it?
Damn no floor drain. I bet there are some frozen garage doors. I don’t live up there but I imagine it happens.
Why would they build that garage with a hodge podge of concrete walls and wood? Was there a hill on that side of the garage that they needed the concrete for to backfill against or to act as a retaining wall?
If you watch the video you can see
Your rebar elevation is incorrect...
👍💯
Put blocks to chair up the steel or its useless
Are you leaving it flush to the footer or edging a joint between?
They installed (epoxied?)rebar into the footer and then bent it over 90° into the field....
The owners must drive bulldozers or tanks to need 6 inches thick with all that rebar. With the foam underneath, that slab is never going to move.
@@jone8626my garage in the US is 42 years old still no cracks, and it was never cut. You should make a video showing how you can push tied rebar through concrete with 3/4 inch stone in it. I would be amazed to see it.
@@jone8626stress on slabs is at the bottom, not in the middle. That's why mesh/rebar is set in the bottom quarter of the thickness.
It's basic stress analysis.
@@jone8626You haven’t a clue, it makes me laugh to hear this nonsense. Do the stones in the mix magically disappear during the pour, and the greatest stress on any floor is at the bottom, not the middle, think about it. SMH! Once the rods or mesh are raised, it’s virtually impossible for them to settle completely back on the ground! No matter who steps on it. If you step on a plank, and it’s unsupported, where does the break begin? Here’s a clue, not in the middle!
this is the normal way in the netherlands
You don't need to buy a rebar tying gun. Clearly, your business does not require one at the time of this video. Just go rent is when you need it, and if in the future you get more similar jobs, make the purchasing decision at that time. In business, it pays to keep things simple.
Everybody is on independent study
Don’t you guys WORK IT TOGETHER??
Thats one thing you cant do is bend fiberglass rebar
Can’t figure out why you’re not pouring complete 14’ panels straight out to the doors
All that mud sitting there, no screed pins, a jerky-jerky hope the elevation is correct….
Then the entire thing blows up while you’re fooling with a crazy grade stick….
Bull float that thing- but TAMP IT FIRST!
It's a bit soupy.
He talked about the use of plasticizer (water reducer) pretty extensively.
he always pours it like that
It is the Water/Cement ratio that is crucial, but nobody knows what that is.
I think he talked about it once, it's less than 0.50 for sure.
@@elbuggo There’s nothing mysterious about water/cement ratio. It’s exactly what it sounds like it is and how it affects ultimate strength. This is about using a plasticizer additive so that the concrete mix behaves like a lot of water has been added, making it easier to work.
The bricks under the rebar is weak point and makes the rebar useless.
Not true. What he did is standard practice, and it works well. Don't post ignorant comments.
@@jamestamu83 Don't be so ignorant I'm an engineer that has worked in the field for 40 years it's not up to code. Its standard practice you say wrong it's a week point. Thay make steel chares that go under the bar allowing the cement flow around them, but Thay are expensive do your research please.
You have no idea what your talking about
@@Two-brothers-stackingyou are absolutely correct the bar needs to be 4” imbedded otherwise it can spall and strip from the concrete.
@@thebullgator I thought rebar needed to be 2" from any edge and 3" from any wet edge. Where do you put rebar in a 4" slab with a 4" margin?
Working to hard for me.
Poured hundreds of thousands of yard.
Work it , don't let it work you!!!
Life is too short, use a pump! 🙂
Two to three inches plus or minus that's what they would tell us, don't spend all week grading a 1500 sqft home the concrete guys want perfection let them buy sand and fill in those 2-to-3 niches by hand...of course it was never 2-to-3 inches it was always a bigger range more like 4-to-6 inches
Sir, will you have to pour the outside there leading up to the garage on the outside up to the front of the garage, or are they just doing stone out there?