That's a shrinkage crack! Dryed faster there than the rest. The way it sticks out ,that's why I still use burlap on my jobs. Cover the whole job with burlap wet it down and keep it that way for 48 hours. I get no cracks.
I've seen them allowed to just start turning grey in spots, then water spray and cover with plastic. Seemed to work for that concrete crew. It's all about preventing the surface from drying before the concrete gains enough strength.
Na, these men scored it just fine , they got mesh down , expansion foam will only make the homewoner call you back every year to redo the mastic, if it was a swimming pool copping fine , better to have to replace mastic other than have to repair pool tile or plaster lol , we use expansion board , basically cardboard or compressed pk paper boards , even those give out over time
Amazing how there are little details that can escape even a pro, though obviously you made an adjustment that should minimize further issues. Fascinating.
In our area, building inspectors want the slab over a foundation at the openings as you have here. Seems better to float the slab over the fill so it can settle as a unit, especially with foam under the slab which will increase settling. I poured 3 slabs at my house all with rebar 16" centers and the only slab that cracked had foam under it.
Quite the team work and everyone has to know what their job is to make this successful. I appreciate the explanation. One really gets to appreciate what concrete work is about. Cheers East Canada.
Most residential interior concrete has an increased chance of cracking due to higher W/C ratio used. Excessive water means greater volume change and any restraint points will crack.
@@bondobuilt386 Sure, and it helps, but you still have something called "drying shrinkage" occurring. Unless you're using some kind of expansive material in the concrete - type K cement or like material, you will have drying shrinkage. Low w/c ratio, proper wet curing for min of 7 days, and shrinkage reducing admixtures can help as well, but you will still always have volume change.
we always put a couple pieces of rebar across corners of doorways to help with the cracking. pouring on plastic/foam isnt fun to begin with because the only place for moisture to go is up. definitely got to be on your timing or youll be chasing that floor till its burnt. ive finished floors we poured on windy days on foam, against my protest, and watch the floor crack as early as 2nd hit and surface cracks open up before i even started machining. ive always dislike pouring directly on plastic/foam. what used to be done was the foam, wire mesh and pipe was buried under 4-6" of sand and we never used to have problems with cracking but then again mud was different back then. where i live, we hardly ever have bleed water because of all the chemicals they use which i think is part of the cracking issues.
The management of plastic and drying shrinkage cracks is dependent upon a range of variables, from the design/detailing, concrete mix/materials, placement/curing etc. One thing I picked up on was the slab thickness was increased from 4" to 5". Unless the ratio of the reinforcement area to the slab's cross-sectional area was maintained, then this change actually reduces the ability of the slab to resist cracking because there is less steel present for what is now more concrete. Then, there's the issue of how conservative the design was to resist cracking. At
So I have had that happen before and i found if i either have some sand or some sill seal over the foundation wall to prevent bond so that when it shrinks from curing the slab is not bonded at the openings it does not crack. The fact that it cracked right away telks me that that is what happened. Structurally sound just looks bad. Nice work.
Need rebar instead of the wire plus the steel is on the bottom and won’t help the concrete at all. The steel needs to be up about a third of the thickness of the concrete. Did you keep the concrete damp while it was curing? Spray it lightly periodically during the first couple days.
Re cracks in concrete. One time I had a customer tell me they wanted m to 'guarantee' a slab for their slab on grade house would not crack. I told them I would GUARANTEE IT 'WILL CRACK'. I continued to mention however that I would do everything the ACI recommends to 'control' the cracking but to guarantee a slab would 'not' crack was gonna be a NO.
I wish someone could explain why in the USA everyone likes to sink their flex tubing at the bottom of their floor! Makes zero sense!. Pour the floor, 2 3/4 (min) lower then finish grade. add your tubing, pour gips type top coat. If you need to add a cut, cut it before the gips is pour, good to go. If your heating tube has issues, you only need to destroy the top layer. Just doesn't make sense to sink the tubing.
@@mrmotofy sorry but you are wrong, thin set works and a lot of homes in Germany use it. They pour their base first normal around 6" to 8" with a min of 2 3/4" thin set to cover the tubes. Most homes in Germany is made out of Concrete of some sort. I stand be this, all serious Concrete workers should come to the International Build show in Germany to see how to build! Before you say anything, I grew up butchering wood, making Cabinets, laying flooring, and doing a lot of concrete! I've seen the difference in a lot of countries. If I ever move back to the USA I'd either build with ICF or Kodiak Steel.
The thinking is PEX-A is robust enough to last decades, and an insulated slab does a good job of providing the room heat when the tube is in the middle of a 4" or 5" slab.
Why do use wire mesh when you just leave it lying flat? The mesh needs to be positioned in the middle of concrete for reinforcement. It's used to hold random intermediate cracks tight. It's sort of counterintuitive to your title!
We could put in mesh or rebar over the tubing also but hard to tool joints into a machine finished floor. Thiscwas a shrinkage crack so the steel would not stop it just hold it together.
I have a question about 1/2" radiant barrier PEX in slabs. Can you crimp a coupling to join two pieces together in the slab? Is this not recommended or may cause a potential leak at the coupling? My situation: I need four runs of 300 feet to have a 12 inch spacing for my basement. Supplier only had two 500 foot boxes and one 300 foot box left available. I can cut the 500 feet pipes to 300 feet but would like to make another 300 foot pipe from the offcuts which would require a coupling in the slab. I also have a Sandpoint well under this slab in my basement that could get contaminated if it leaks but that's another story. You understand why I'm asking.
You can splice it but try not to unless its is necessary. The couplings will not leak but they restrict the flow a little but. I would buy another roll if it were me.
How long ago did you do block fill? Crack isn’t off corner so it’s not a natural expansion crack. It’s cracked right where block fill meets floor which indicates to me the block fill load expanded causing pressure on floor an cracked. Any experienced Concretor knows we all guessing to a certain extent though lol
Job looks good Ron. That mud in the door cracking just looks like shrinkage, not settling. Just my two cents. Throw some epoxy to it and forget it. Sh-t Happens.
We always pulled our wire mesh up into the mud.I think the key is the crack telegraphs into the stem wall .How soon did you pull off that form board? Was that the final part of the pour? It looks to me like it lost support and fell away rather than dried too fast on top and shrunk or curled.
2 kinda of concrete, the kind that's cracked & the kind that's going to crack, the slab is the biggest when poured, water evaporates, it's going to shrink. No degrees, just 25 years in ready mix
I can give you the reason why it cracked. Well three reasons 1. Mesh needs to be in the top 1/3 of the Concrete otherwise it is doing 0% work IE if its in the middle it is doing nothing from a structural perspective and if its in the bottom third as shown in the video its doing sweet f all as cracking occurs on the top of the slab - This is basic structural engineering people. IE You needed to put a top mesh layer, with chairs, above the hydronic heating. PLEASE NOTE Mesh on the base will actually promote concrete cancer as the mesh will eventually rust due to water sitting underneath the slab seeping through the plastic barrier. 2. You need to use aliphatic alcohol - Cracks are mostly caused by shrinkage and managing bleed water with aliphatic alcohol no matter the conditions (cold windy is just as bad as hot) the finish compound, when used correctly will significantly reduce the risk of shrinkage cracks 3. Construction joints that are acute induce cracking - You need to do your best to do them perpendicular
I'm a Civil Engineer, and though I've only seen a couple of your videos, I'm betting you have cracks because you don't put any mesh or rebar in your slabs. Not quite sure why you seem to do them that way, but fibers just don't have the same strength that mesh or bars do. Have you been doing this long? By the way, that looks like a shrinkage crack, and there's no way that's going to close up.
You must be blind , no offense Mr engineer, I am a builder and concrete finisher 22 years , but you can clearly see wire mesh in his slab , and he said it was a 4000 psi mix with fiber
@@jessedukelacrosse6470 Um...no. No offense back at you Mr. finisher, but he stated that the wire was there to hold the heating tubes in place, and that they were not pulling it up for any reinforcement. Clearly something isn't working right, and if you have a better explanation, I'll gladly admit that I'm wrong. By the way, I meant no disrespect to him or anyone else that works that kind of ass-busting profession. It takes a lot of skill and dedication to even get into that business.
Concrete always cracks... it is the nature of the beast. Especially in residential pours. Also was it pure Portland cement or was some fly ash added also?
Southern Cali we are back to having idk what , looks like black tar mixed into mud , you can see it coming down Concrete pump hose , haven't seen this since 2007 , must be a shortage again
Two types of concrete, one that has cracked and one yet to crack. Can you give a close up of some of your fibers or exact type of fibers. There are allot of differing fibers. And just on OSHA no shirt in the sun, I made the same mistake in my 20s. Cheers from Oz
You said it when you said "This concrete's funny". You could do that stuff every day of your life and still not see it all! At least it sounds like your customer is a good guy. It's hard to take when something doesn't go the way you expect it to and sounds like he knew that there's no real guarantee with concrete other than, it will crack, we just hope it's where we want it to. That's why many people want a ticket with the weights on it so if something went wrong at the plant they know, but not all ready mix plants have that yet and some won't use it.
That's a weird Crack, I have no explanation for it, looked prepped very well. I personally would never take a risk and cut those joints in with saw when you have heat in it, I'd tool them in. Wire will still do a lot of good even on the bottom. Looks like a good job to me. Concretes funny stuff, can't control everything
I was on a job for some filthy rich couple a few years ago and the slab cracked so it had to be Jack hammered out and done again. The fkn thing cracked again which I've never seen before. Only thing on that job and this one is under floor heating but I don't see how that would contribute.
@@bondobuilt386 These cracks were a bit more severe than the usual. Our norm was installing aluminium angles as control joints (same on that failed job) and they are often handy as something for the concretors to screed to.
Tyler Ley has some great videos on why concrete cracks. One reason is that the concrete is drying out too quickly because of conditions. Wind, humidity, temp, etc. plastic shrinkage ua-cam.com/video/VU-tJgTiteA/v-deo.html
Also best to keep the forms and concrete covered for at least 24 hours and ideally 72. Form removal - Tyler Ley ua-cam.com/video/oWpTcXhOl6A/v-deo.html
Well to begin i cant understand why you americans use so little steel in your slabs! you should have the bottom steel on distanceblocks from the ground and another layer approx one inch from the top
What's the main reason concrete cracks or fails? A.) Not enough water and not mixed correctly B.) Dries too fast. C.) Too much water. D.) No expansion joints There's two types of concrete in this world. Concrete thats cracked. And concrete that hasn't cracked yet..... LMBO If you didn't cheat and look down here the answer to the question is C.) too much water
@@bondobuilt386 I did some investigating and there is flexible concrete, more expensive of course: Flexible concrete was developed at the University of Michigan by engineering professor Victor Li. It was developed to be used in earthquake-prone areas around the world such as Japan and Korea. This new form of flexible concrete helps buildings be earthquake-proof, enables roads and bridges with fewer potholes and cracks, and allows other uses where the concrete must be flexible to last longer. This flexible or engineered concrete can be used by engineering services to build commercial projects using traditional methods. Flexible concrete is different than traditional concrete in that it has polyvinyl alcohol fibers and very fine silica sand instead of course aggregate. Other fibers such as silica fibers, glass fibers, steel fibers, and asbestos fibers can be used. These micro-fibers give the new concrete its flexibility. In addition, a slick coating or anti-frictional coating is used to reduce friction between the fiber particles in the cement. This helps eliminate cracks and make the concrete flexible. The concrete can also contain latex, lignin, melamine, polycarbonated ether, lignosulphonate, or other superplasticizers to improve workability and flexibility.
I notice only you and a couple other older gents were wearing long pants. The younger guys,, wait til they get a case of concrete poisoning and they'll learn. Long pants when working in concrete is a good idea. Shorts aren't that much cooler anyway.
that door needs rug out and repoured ,, out of sight mostly is not a good job. Shame as it was looking great , but I didnt see that crack coming , once seen though its obvious ,,, 20 / 20 hindsight ,,, poor day that you dont learn something though.
@@bondobuilt386 that's exactly what I said .... it's a poor day you don't learn something.. ... but I would still have dug out the doorway and poured it again ..for all the money and effort involved it would be very little to leave the job clean and nice.
@@bondobuilt386 really nice job ... but I didn't see that coming .... bet it gets a cut there in future jobs ... the man who never made a mistake never made anything. 👍
Theres is three guarantees in comcrete work. It will get hard. , no one will steel it, and it will absoluetly crack Any one that says there concrete work does not shrink crack is a liar
I never had any concrete crack on any garage floors before. I also haven't poured any either.
Champ
awesome. lol
That's a shrinkage crack! Dryed faster there than the rest. The way it sticks out ,that's why I still use burlap on my jobs. Cover the whole job with burlap wet it down and keep it that way for 48 hours. I get no cracks.
Wet cure for a much stronger and more consistent pad.
I've seen them allowed to just start turning grey in spots, then water spray and cover with plastic.
Seemed to work for that concrete crew.
It's all about preventing the surface from drying before the concrete gains enough strength.
Well, I just learned something!
Plastic shrinkage. Tyler Ley has great videos on it. ua-cam.com/video/VU-tJgTiteA/v-deo.html
You needed expansion foam on each side of the service door block out. When the concrete wanted to shrink I was tied in to hard in that area.
When it cures it becomes dehydrated. Why not give it a top layer? Then clean it up?
Thanks
Also tell them about finish. You do have a crew for that
Or put a piece of cardboard on each side of door, so the concrete can slide in as it shrinks?
Na, these men scored it just fine , they got mesh down , expansion foam will only make the homewoner call you back every year to redo the mastic, if it was a swimming pool copping fine , better to have to replace mastic other than have to repair pool tile or plaster lol , we use expansion board , basically cardboard or compressed pk paper boards , even those give out over time
Amazing how there are little details that can escape even a pro, though obviously you made an adjustment that should minimize further issues. Fascinating.
Thanks
In our area, building inspectors want the slab over a foundation at the openings as you have here. Seems better to float the slab over the fill so it can settle as a unit, especially with foam under the slab which will increase settling. I poured 3 slabs at my house all with rebar 16" centers and the only slab that cracked had foam under it.
Yes I have noticed these foam under slabs want to crack.
Im pro 30 yrs, if you dont want surprize cracks, dont cut the control joints the next day.
I did the cuts the same day we poured with my soft cut. went back the next day to add cuts across the doors because of the crack.
with a good 15cm of concrete on top of the underfloor heating pipes, they might as well turn on the heat today to be ready for next winter
Thanks Ron. On to the next one and keep ‘em coming.
You bet uncle Jim. 😊
Quite the team work and everyone has to know what their job is to make this successful. I appreciate the explanation. One really gets to appreciate what concrete work is about. Cheers East Canada.
Cheers to you as well Thank you.
Most residential interior concrete has an increased chance of cracking due to higher W/C ratio used. Excessive water means greater volume change and any restraint points will crack.
I agree but we do not pour it wet like some do.
@@bondobuilt386 Sure, and it helps, but you still have something called "drying shrinkage" occurring. Unless you're using some kind of expansive material in the concrete - type K cement or like material, you will have drying shrinkage. Low w/c ratio, proper wet curing for min of 7 days, and shrinkage reducing admixtures can help as well, but you will still always have volume change.
Just looking at it you can tell it's not that wet.
@@Ilove3SGTE thanks
we always put a couple pieces of rebar across corners of doorways to help with the cracking. pouring on plastic/foam isnt fun to begin with because the only place for moisture to go is up. definitely got to be on your timing or youll be chasing that floor till its burnt.
ive finished floors we poured on windy days on foam, against my protest, and watch the floor crack as early as 2nd hit and surface cracks open up before i even started machining. ive always dislike pouring directly on plastic/foam. what used to be done was the foam, wire mesh and pipe was buried under 4-6" of sand and we never used to have problems with cracking but then again mud was different back then. where i live, we hardly ever have bleed water because of all the chemicals they use which i think is part of the cracking issues.
First of all, use rebar instead of wires. Next, water the dried concrete. Lastly, don't cut corners.
Please explain what a low air mixture is and why you use it.
The management of plastic and drying shrinkage cracks is dependent upon a range of variables, from the design/detailing, concrete mix/materials, placement/curing etc. One thing I picked up on was the slab thickness was increased from 4" to 5". Unless the ratio of the reinforcement area to the slab's cross-sectional area was maintained, then this change actually reduces the ability of the slab to resist cracking because there is less steel present for what is now more concrete. Then, there's the issue of how conservative the design was to resist cracking. At
So I have had that happen before and i found if i either have some sand or some sill seal over the foundation wall to prevent bond so that when it shrinks from curing the slab is not bonded at the openings it does not crack. The fact that it cracked right away telks me that that is what happened. Structurally sound just looks bad. Nice work.
I appreciate the honest report.
glad you liked it.
Need rebar instead of the wire plus the steel is on the bottom and won’t help the concrete at all. The steel needs to be up about a third of the thickness of the concrete. Did you keep the concrete damp while it was curing? Spray it lightly periodically during the first couple days.
You can put a short piece of rebar at an angle in the corners of the doors
Re cracks in concrete. One time I had a customer tell me they wanted m to 'guarantee' a slab for their slab on grade house would not crack. I told them I would GUARANTEE IT 'WILL CRACK'. I continued to mention however that I would do everything the ACI recommends to 'control' the cracking but to guarantee a slab would 'not' crack was gonna be a NO.
Hey bondo I like to put rebar on top of the tubing
I have done that as well.
I wish someone could explain why in the USA everyone likes to sink their flex tubing at the bottom of their floor! Makes zero sense!. Pour the floor, 2 3/4 (min) lower then finish grade. add your tubing, pour gips type top coat. If you need to add a cut, cut it before the gips is pour, good to go. If your heating tube has issues, you only need to destroy the top layer. Just doesn't make sense to sink the tubing.
Cuz thin concrete doesn't work. 4" is the minimum slab thickness
@@mrmotofy sorry but you are wrong, thin set works and a lot of homes in Germany use it. They pour their base first normal around 6" to 8" with a min of 2 3/4" thin set to cover the tubes. Most homes in Germany is made out of Concrete of some sort. I stand be this, all serious Concrete workers should come to the International Build show in Germany to see how to build! Before you say anything, I grew up butchering wood, making Cabinets, laying flooring, and doing a lot of concrete! I've seen the difference in a lot of countries. If I ever move back to the USA I'd either build with ICF or Kodiak Steel.
The thinking is PEX-A is robust enough to last decades, and an insulated slab does a good job of providing the room heat when the tube is in the middle of a 4" or 5" slab.
Why do use wire mesh when you just leave it lying flat? The mesh needs to be positioned in the middle of concrete for reinforcement. It's used to hold random intermediate cracks tight. It's sort of counterintuitive to your title!
He explained that
Shuddup fool. Watch the vids with your eyes and ears, sheeesh...
Why not put mesh or rebar over the radiant? Why couldn’t you trowel joints?
We could put in mesh or rebar over the tubing also but hard to tool joints into a machine finished floor. Thiscwas a shrinkage crack so the steel would not stop it just hold it together.
@@bondobuilt386thanks for explaining good video
I have a question about 1/2" radiant barrier PEX in slabs.
Can you crimp a coupling to join two pieces together in the slab?
Is this not recommended or may cause a potential leak at the coupling?
My situation: I need four runs of 300 feet to have a 12 inch spacing for my basement. Supplier only had two 500 foot boxes and one 300 foot box left available. I can cut the 500 feet pipes to 300 feet but would like to make another 300 foot pipe from the offcuts which would require a coupling in the slab.
I also have a Sandpoint well under this slab in my basement that could get contaminated if it leaks but that's another story. You understand why I'm asking.
You can splice it but try not to unless its is necessary. The couplings will not leak but they restrict the flow a little but. I would buy another roll if it were me.
@@bondobuilt386 ok thanks
Splice it in a closet or something and box it out so you can access in the future.
How long ago did you do block fill? Crack isn’t off corner so it’s not a natural expansion crack. It’s cracked right where block fill meets floor which indicates to me the block fill load expanded causing pressure on floor an cracked. Any experienced Concretor knows we all guessing to a certain extent though lol
What are those big knee boards made out of? Just plywood? Looked light like foam maybe?
Closed cell foam board.
Any time you have outside corners it will crack at those corners. If you put 3x pieces of #3 @ about 36" at each outside corner it will help.
2.30 looks like a painting
yes it does 😀
The crack looks like a settlement problem because it transfers to the wall sections❓
Job looks good Ron. That mud in the door cracking just looks like shrinkage, not settling. Just my two cents. Throw some epoxy to it and forget it. Sh-t Happens.
Thanks that's what I was thinking
We always pulled our wire mesh up into the mud.I think the key is the crack telegraphs into the stem wall .How soon did you pull off that form board? Was that the final part of the pour? It looks to me like it lost support and fell away rather than dried too fast on top and shrunk or curled.
love the boo boo bus. I worked out of an old mail truck for years.
Ya its handy.
Are you burning biscuit again ?
He likes to go shirtless. LOL
How do they put air in concrete?we don't get very cold weather over here
buscit cracked it when he put those knee boards
1st one here, I will give u an answer in a few, I'm guessing it's because u can't saw cut deep cuz the tubing
your the 1st so you are the best.
@@bondobuilt386 😄 🤣 😂 best at concrete? jk keep knocking em out I watch may not comment on them all but I do watch them
@@GRUBB-MUDD thanks bud 👍
Lets face it. Concrete cracks. Vibrating your concrete minimizes this.
The concrete was mixed with too much water ... Or the surface froze before the cure was complete.
Bad water/cement ratio is most likely.
2 kinda of concrete, the kind that's cracked & the kind that's going to crack, the slab is the biggest when poured, water evaporates, it's going to shrink. No degrees, just 25 years in ready mix
question why not rebar??
You didn't pull up the wire! I knew it! Caught you on video! 😂 Just kidding of course. Is Biscuit your son?
I can give you the reason why it cracked. Well three reasons
1. Mesh needs to be in the top 1/3 of the Concrete otherwise it is doing 0% work IE if its in the middle it is doing nothing from a structural perspective and if its in the bottom third as shown in the video its doing sweet f all as cracking occurs on the top of the slab - This is basic structural engineering people. IE You needed to put a top mesh layer, with chairs, above the hydronic heating. PLEASE NOTE Mesh on the base will actually promote concrete cancer as the mesh will eventually rust due to water sitting underneath the slab seeping through the plastic barrier.
2. You need to use aliphatic alcohol - Cracks are mostly caused by shrinkage and managing bleed water with aliphatic alcohol no matter the conditions (cold windy is just as bad as hot) the finish compound, when used correctly will significantly reduce the risk of shrinkage cracks
3. Construction joints that are acute induce cracking - You need to do your best to do them perpendicular
You didn’t cut it in time. And did you cut it 1 1/4” no more than 15 by 15’ squares.
Cuts are to give it a place to crack not just for looks.
Should have a joint in every inside corner like that. They are always a week point. Give it a %100 next time.
I'm a Civil Engineer, and though I've only seen a couple of your videos, I'm betting you have cracks because you don't put any mesh or rebar in your slabs. Not quite sure why you seem to do them that way, but fibers just don't have the same strength that mesh or bars do. Have you been doing this long? By the way, that looks like a shrinkage crack, and there's no way that's going to close up.
There is mesh in that floor and fiber
You must be blind , no offense Mr engineer, I am a builder and concrete finisher 22 years , but you can clearly see wire mesh in his slab , and he said it was a 4000 psi mix with fiber
@@jessedukelacrosse6470 Um...no. No offense back at you Mr. finisher, but he stated that the wire was there to hold the heating tubes in place, and that they were not pulling it up for any reinforcement. Clearly something isn't working right, and if you have a better explanation, I'll gladly admit that I'm wrong. By the way, I meant no disrespect to him or anyone else that works that kind of ass-busting profession. It takes a lot of skill and dedication to even get into that business.
Pex manufacturers recommend tube be in the top 2" of concrete
Try that and you will cut a tube for sure when you do the relief cuts.
It’s been my experience that it should be at least 5inches to hold the weight of the vehicles.
Concrete always cracks... it is the nature of the beast. Especially in residential pours. Also was it pure Portland cement or was some fly ash added also?
Wrong.
AMERICAN concrete always cracks .
No fly ash in this mix.
Southern Cali we are back to having idk what , looks like black tar mixed into mud , you can see it coming down Concrete pump hose , haven't seen this since 2007 , must be a shortage again
Two types of concrete, one that has cracked and one yet to crack.
Can you give a close up of some of your fibers or exact type of fibers.
There are allot of differing fibers.
And just on OSHA no shirt in the sun, I made the same mistake in my 20s.
Cheers from Oz
If there's one thing a concrete guy can guarantee ya is that it will crack
@@tannerwest6823 Yup.
U seem to always get large complex jobs ,and do them well,
Concrete quote if it hasn't cracked it will!
You said it when you said "This concrete's funny". You could do that stuff every day of your life and still not see it all! At least it sounds like your customer is a good guy. It's hard to take when something doesn't go the way you expect it to and sounds like he knew that there's no real guarantee with concrete other than, it will crack, we just hope it's where we want it to. That's why many people want a ticket with the weights on it so if something went wrong at the plant they know, but not all ready mix plants have that yet and some won't use it.
Concrete does 3 things gets hard cracks nobody's gonna steal it 😂😂
Nice video
Thank you 😊
Looks like crack is due to reentrant corners at the door opening.
So you’re the guy standing there with your hands in your packets? LOL
There's only two guarantees with concrete
1. It's going to crack.
2. Nobody going to steal it.
and it will not catch on fire. LOL
@@bondobuilt386 there is now 3 rules.
@@mattl6300 yup 👍
I thought paddling was only done in Wisconsin in New York it’s called raking concrete
Hot mud, dried way to quick.Need water and burlap.
Nice work there 👍👍🇬🇧uk🇬🇧
thank you
That's a weird Crack, I have no explanation for it, looked prepped very well. I personally would never take a risk and cut those joints in with saw when you have heat in it, I'd tool them in. Wire will still do a lot of good even on the bottom. Looks like a good job to me. Concretes funny stuff, can't control everything
THAT crack almost looks like you pulled the outside form to soon and the concrete pulled apart !
Beer 30
You'll have that on those big jobs!
I was on a job for some filthy rich couple a few years ago and the slab cracked so it had to be Jack hammered out and done again. The fkn thing cracked again which I've never seen before. Only thing on that job and this one is under floor heating but I don't see how that would contribute.
Most concrete cracks. Just need to control it.
@@bondobuilt386 These cracks were a bit more severe than the usual. Our norm was installing aluminium angles as control joints (same on that failed job) and they are often handy as something for the concretors to screed to.
"Fiberglass fibers" is not wrong BTW. Sounds weird, but grammatically, it's correct. :)
Tyler Ley has some great videos on why concrete cracks. One reason is that the concrete is drying out too quickly because of conditions. Wind, humidity, temp, etc.
plastic shrinkage ua-cam.com/video/VU-tJgTiteA/v-deo.html
Also best to keep the forms and concrete covered for at least 24 hours and ideally 72.
Form removal - Tyler Ley
ua-cam.com/video/oWpTcXhOl6A/v-deo.html
clearly insufficient reinforcement for such a large pour.
Fibers doesn’t add strength.
It’s concrete it cracks wen and where it once 2
yup for sure.
US is so wierd. Using inch instead of cm and have almost no rebar/mesh in the slabs
One of the 3 guarantee of concrete
It’s going to crack
It’s going to get hard
No one is going to steal it
Scott and it won't catch fire. LOL
The biscuit is fried
love the shirts off, like my videos, glad I'm not the only 1 making vifs w sun's out guns out, and shirts off 💪
suns out guns out. lol
I would argue it's unprofessional
Would you come to Ohio and do a build?
Not joking..
I can't we have so much work at home.
After years of expansion and contraction the concrete will crack in the darnedest places.
Big biscuit needs to wear a shirt or a lot of sunscreen. Melanoma is no joke.
Wrong fiber try Helix micro rebar next time.
Well to begin i cant understand why you americans use so little steel in your slabs! you should have the bottom steel on distanceblocks from the ground and another layer approx one inch from the top
It's 4000psi concrete!!
Yes with fiber reinforcement
@@bondobuilt386 but you said 4000 pound lmao
@@tomcander3669 oh my bad lol 😂
I'm pretty sure it all cracks
That’s not normal expansion cracking.
Bad sign to Crack this quick after pour.
Excellent
What's the main reason concrete cracks or fails? A.) Not enough water and not mixed correctly B.) Dries too fast. C.) Too much water. D.) No expansion joints
There's two types of concrete in this world. Concrete thats cracked. And concrete that hasn't cracked yet..... LMBO
If you didn't cheat and look down here the answer to the question is C.) too much water
Imagine if concrete was just 5% more flexible.
I wish. lol
@@bondobuilt386 I did some investigating and there is flexible concrete, more expensive of course:
Flexible concrete was developed at the University of Michigan by engineering professor Victor Li. It was developed to be used in earthquake-prone areas around the world such as Japan and Korea. This new form of flexible concrete helps buildings be earthquake-proof, enables roads and bridges with fewer potholes and cracks, and allows other uses where the concrete must be flexible to last longer. This flexible or engineered concrete can be used by engineering services to build commercial projects using traditional methods.
Flexible concrete is different than traditional concrete in that it has polyvinyl alcohol fibers and very fine silica sand instead of course aggregate. Other fibers such as silica fibers, glass fibers, steel fibers, and asbestos fibers can be used. These micro-fibers give the new concrete its flexibility. In addition, a slick coating or anti-frictional coating is used to reduce friction between the fiber particles in the cement. This helps eliminate cracks and make the concrete flexible. The concrete can also contain latex, lignin, melamine, polycarbonated ether, lignosulphonate, or other superplasticizers to improve workability and flexibility.
No such thing , just got to score it or saw cut it right , keep concrete hydrated or cover it with plastic which gives it an ugly look for a few weeks
@@jessedukelacrosse6470 I literally quoted an article about flexible concrete, so there is such a thing.
I finished concrete for 40+, and I always guaranteed my concrete! LOL, to get hard and crack.
I notice only you and a couple other older gents were wearing long pants. The younger guys,, wait til they get a case of concrete poisoning and they'll learn. Long pants when working in concrete is a good idea. Shorts aren't that much cooler anyway.
that door needs rug out and repoured ,, out of sight mostly is not a good job. Shame as it was looking great , but I didnt see that crack coming , once seen though its obvious ,,, 20 / 20 hindsight ,,, poor day that you dont learn something though.
Why do you say I didn't learn anything? I learn something on every job.
@@bondobuilt386 that's exactly what I said .... it's a poor day you don't learn something.. ... but I would still have dug out the doorway and poured it again ..for all the money and effort involved it would be very little to leave the job clean and nice.
@@tomthompson7400 got ya bud I misunderstood your comment. Totally agree that we all learn something new every day doing this work. 👍
@@bondobuilt386 really nice job ... but I didn't see that coming .... bet it gets a cut there in future jobs ... the man who never made a mistake never made anything. 👍
@@tomthompson7400 Yup I cut one today like that. LOL
Next time put a expansion joint on your door opening rookies
Probably had no black in it you know the saying
Theres is three guarantees in comcrete work. It will get hard. , no one will steel it, and it will absoluetly crack Any one that says there concrete work does not shrink crack is a liar
its concrete ....thats what it does.... if there's no cracks its not concrete lol
yup. lol
That's because that's what concrete does
I'd be fired within the first hour, go clean up, bring back my drums, and do something I'm good at lol.
That mesh is not doing a damn thing
Because concrete cracks 😆
yup. lol
Water is wet, fire is hot and concrete cracks.
@@nonyabuisness for sure 👍
Concrete will eventually always crack
It cracked cause someone came at night and hit it with a sledge hammer 🔨
lol I knew it was not my fault. lol
🤘