We Reviewed The NEW (2024) Moonboard Set
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- Опубліковано 14 січ 2024
- Brand-New Course: A Climber's Guide to Training - latticetraining.com/product/a...
The Moonboard 2024 SET IS HERE! 👀 The newest addition to the rock climbing community has arrived.
The Moonboard 🌙 is the most prolific and famous training/climbing board to feature in our gyms, with its history stemming from the historic School Room board in Sheffield, UK. 💪 In today's video, we are getting an early look at what improvements have been made and how good it really is. We are also hosting a few pro climbers to try some of the hardest boulders already established 🙌 (and future benchmarks? 👀)
This is the 4th edition moonboard and Moon Climbing has clearly been hard at work making sure it is the best iteration yet. But how good is it, and how does it compare to the previous sets? 🤔
We will be rating the new Moonboard on 5 different factors:
1. Hold Shapes ⭐
2. Hold Ergonomics ⭐
3. Sandbag Level ⭐
4. Training Versatility ⭐
5. Fun Factor ⭐
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At this point I don't hink I want more moonboard variations. I liked the fact that I could do a climb and share that with a friend in a another country and they could do the exact same climb. The chance of us having the same moonboard shrinks with each new set.
Hahahaha Rhos refusing to give anything 5 then ranking the board an overall 5 because "it's fun watching Josh struggle" with a deadpan face had me in stitches. Classic British humour and I was ironically drinking a cup of tea while watching.
It's ok because Rhos is my friend ☺.. I think 😐
I love sandbagged boards because I enjoy hanging out on boards and then it has the added perc of making me feel super strong on other climbs. It's part of the charm for me :D
They really need to update their app, as to make it easier for people to put a climb up on the board, like the Kilter app. Once click and in a few seconds you have your problem up and lighted. The moonboard is a bit of a nightmare to use when there´s lots of people trying to use it at the same time
Big fax
@@teece900 That´s great to hear. Do you know if it´ll work with the older sets too?
@@luisleindecker7317 Yes, if you have the updated controlbox you can be 7 people connected at the same time.
Yes but on the moonboard you can use it also without the lights, on the kilterboard is impossible if you don't have the lights on
Hey if the app itself wasn't a sandbag then it wouldn't be in spiritual alignment with the board 😂
Making this review at the School Room = Liking the food at your friends house, COME ON!!!
Hey, only 2 out of 4 were wearing moon merch 😅
The real question is whether its better than the 2016 set
great review, thanks Lattice team! i was happy to see an update but not much info on it until now. i hope my gym purchase this new set, fingers crossed!
Do a Mini Moonboard reveiw next! I have the 2020 mini and its the hardest of all the moonboards. Ive done up to V6/7 on the 2016 Moonboard and also the TB2 and kilter, but my mini at home, ive only done two V5s on it! Wondering if the new 2024 mini setup will be more forgiving?
Seconding, I'd love to see a Mini review
3rd
Let them do Tooky Shuffle or O-Dub. Hardest V4s on the planet😂
oh yeah absolutely! Also wonder about the 2024 mini. Probably will be the same as I assume the community will just continue grading the problems the same.
i hope they get their senses together and DON'T do a mini2024. we can't divide such a small community! we're gonna lose so many good setter to each set it doesn't make any sense to me.
The 2016 set was great because the holds weren't ergonomic. They trained you to have pain tolerance and your fingers get a lot stronger grabbing weird shaped holds. The ergonomic holds are fine, but that's what the kilterboard is for.
This 👆
2016 is the best one
my whole philosophy as someone who literally started climbing to alleviate an often way too compressed back, is that the ergonomic holds will allow people to climb injury free more often. i dont care if it resembles "outdoor" climbing or not. just pick a fucking line that isn't so masochist, jesus christ.
I get where you're coming from but you're a bit confused. The oddly-shaped plastic holds on 2016 require a great deal of finger strength, but so do the mostly-wooden holds of the 2019 board (possibly even more strength is required), which also has the benefit of not tearing up your fingers tremendously. Your finger skin can be "strengthened" completely effortlessly with even just the edge of a spoon or fork (once daily, rub for ~20 seconds until it starts to feel a bit raw), whereas actual finger hypertrophy and pulley strengthening is most efficiently achieved through training sessions on non-frictiony holds (like wood). Small plastic holds will usually limit the workload you can put in, and so having the holds on your board tear up your fingers is entirely unnecessary.
I would have liked a score for hold position and orientation as well, as they certainly has an influence on the kind of moves the board lends itself to.
Would love to see a mini moonboard review. I find it so hard!
Sadly there‘s pretty low amount of youtube content out there since there aren‘t many gyms that have it. I know there‘s a statistic somewhere ranking moonboards by how sandbagged they are and the mini 2020 setup got rank 1. so yeah, pretty hard…
100% needed the ‘ratters’ translation! 😅
Would love to see a Tension board 2 review as well!
1.45 loved that crimping 😮😍
Rhos is fucking hilarious, really enjoyed her presence in this video. Great climbing and a great board! Trying to convince our Head Setter to order a set ASAP
The blue holds and wood holds are a great addition. I’ve only climbed on the 2016 hold set, glad we have a moonboard over a kilter board. Flashing v7-8 on the kilter board and struggling with v5 on the moonboard is bullshit. I believe the moonboard is a better representation of outdoor grades.
Thanks for sharing guys! I think 2024 is going to be AWESOME.
Can't wait to climb on this :D
At this stage talking about grade consistency feels pretty premature, there are 500 problems and probably 3 or 4 boards actually exist with the full 2024 set, there are currently 0 benchmarks and the most repeated problem has 50 repeats, where should any grade consistency come from? Which benchmarks could serve as a reference point? Currently the grades are all over the place and I guess you can just ignore them completely, they are arbitrary and inconsistent
It was given 5 out of 5 based on the Moonboard community and the fact they have a team establishing benchmarks. So it may not be consistent just yet but it won't be long until it as well established as the previous sets.
the previous sets have absolutely garbage grade consistency, the hardest benchmarks often feel 2-3 grades harder than the easiest for a certain grade, so it's not like that even matters anyways because they all suck
I actually agree with Ollie, when he says “This makes mee wanna come back to the Schoolroom”. I feel like this set is so skin friendly, the holds are so nice to hold that even if you don’t have V3 for us noobies….it’s making me just want to grind the sh*t out of it to get to higher grades
this video gives me more optimism for the new board. Still looks like it climbs like a moonboard, and that big undercling on row 8 looks stellar. Will definitely try it if any of the Colorado gyms get one
Ultimately though, I'm not very enthusiastic about the new set. I think leaning away from the style of the 2016 puts it too close to its competitors, especially the TB2, and I don't think it will outdo the TB2 in many areas. Hold variety, density, versatility, ergonomics. Where does this board outshine every other board?
The BRC is supposed to be getting one.
Hold variety I'm preeetty sure the grasshopper is better. Whole video just feels like an ad tbh
Is there a way to see what gyms actually have them?
I'm a full on TB2 fanboy, been climbing on it since it came out and the thing that really sets it apart from other boards is the abundance of bad feet combined with the hold density. New moon looks pretty good too though, but I wish they would go for the no foothold kickboard though, it really does enhance the movement of board climbing
When you’re talking about grading board problems I find that as long as the problems are internally consistent sandbagging is not a big deal.
What does sandbagging mean in climbing parlance, please?
@@gaiaiulia when problem is graded much lower than it’s actual difficulty.
So if the real difficulty is v7 but someone gives a grade of v4, that’s sandbagged
It’s no big deal as long as the grades are consistent.
@@paulgaras2606 thank you. Very clear explanation there 👍
can you use heel hooks on this set?
Indeed! Hook away!
When is the slab version for?
Moonboard holds looking more and more like Kilter holds. Definitely makes it more accessible to less-strong climbers
👀
No please, why there are so many pinches ( I hate them, just a personal preference ). But overall it looks like a big improvement from the other moon boards, that were already good.
don't worry there are also plenty of small pockets and underclings :D
I don't like pinches either but there are some really good ones on this set. I think that is because a lot of them are more incut than the usual flat pinches you get on training boards.
@@LatticeTraining Okay, thank you. If they are incut they're nice, I don't like slopey pinches
You only hate them because you suck at them
Apparently we're getting it at my gym soon so I can't wait to try it out. Wasn't too excited when I first saw it but everyone keeps saying its great so I am excited to try it! I hope the bigger holds don't make it too morpho in the harder grade ranges.
What does too morpho mean?
@@crispycrimps865 Too dependent on your height/reach
@@crispycrimps865 When the holds get bigger, the difficulty tends increase by making the moves bigger and therefore can feel unfair for shorter climbers. Example of this is the Kilter Board. When the holds are small the difficulty can come from the holds themselves instead of just doing huge dynos.
@@loiduongjr I think you have to differentiate between size of the hold (like literally how big/small the hold is) and how good the hold is (depth/incut). The problem with the Kilter is not that the holds are large (in terms of size) but they are too good (a lot of jugs/deep incuts). The actual size of the hold actually makes a problem less morpho as it allows for a wider range of body positions (thus the appearance of volumes and larger shapes in comps). I think the 2024 is going in the right direction here, the holds are large but mostly really hard to hold on (shallow/slopery/crimpy or pinches/underclings). I am undecided about the many pockets though, as they make it hard to go to them dynamically which is often what allows smaller climbers to compensate for lack of span.
I was surprised by how hard some of the moves were on the bigger holds. Not because of pure distance but due to footholds being hard to use (directional), creating more tension moves etc. Some of the bigger holds are not as positive as they look and some of the small ones are better than you think. I'm sure there will be some big jump moves, but it feels less jumpy than previous sets.
i think this being the best moonboard set yet isn't saying a ton given how much other boards have progressed in the same time frame.
Yup, the only improvements made are the same as a gym getting a new hold set. Likely better, but does not solve
any actual issues which every other board has done.
I think the new hold set kind of strays from what the moon board is known for with small holds that are super fingery and challenging
dont worry, it's still impossible
My first board was a Moonboard over five years ago. It has some nostalgia. Two different gyms I go to have Kilterboards.
This video was clearly trying to only compare Moonboard to itself. Only comparing it to itself is silly. Comparing different brands would be much more interesting.
Two things that stand out for me with the Kilterboard are the ability to change the angle of the wall and the holds themselves lighting up instead of dots under them.
Though there are space and cost tradeoffs the single improvement I would make to both of them would be taller and wider. Even better would be smaller modular boards that could be used both combined and uncombined.
Man, hearing that it’s soft is kinda sad ^^ the best thing of 2016 set was it’s hardness
The TB2 just seems better than this in literally every way
And what are the actual updates? The holds are not as uncomfortable and awkward as previous versions... and can designate kickboard feet off but how common will this be being the moonboard community has maintained this odd choice for years?
Looks like the top row is still required to finish, assume there is still a limit to the row to start from, being the school room has this fixed assuming the angle(s) are the same and not meant to adjust, and still no designated foothold options. Repetition in any holds would be nice.
The holds are blue and has reduced some of the absolute worst aspects while maintaining the feel of just making a home board except you have to use this setup.
I guess everybody his own but the fixed angle is a big plus
I do not think boards with good holds have a benefit when you change the angle. The holds are made with a special angle in mind.
I think the 2016 and 2019 are great boards and I would prefer them to a kilter. Not tried the tension yet.
Looking forward to trying the 2024
@@mikegruber1771 lots of holds have varied angle ranges, and this influences a lot of movement patterns. It would be great to think this hold set is perfect for 40°... but unlikely and for limitation of movement patterns and hold diversity. Someone said this hold feels comfortable enough for this purpose and nothing more, and having used miserable edges on the grasshopper, tb1, and tb2 for both 15 and 45 climbs, all depends on the movement. Having no designated feet messes with this more.
But... definitely not all holds feel good throughout every angle for every person.
Do you not like the 2017 set, or have you just not used them much? @@mikegruber1771
It's unfortunate people like raviolibiceps are going to start the sandbagging thing on this new board. pointless having a grading system if the routes are intentionally sandbagged. sure, you can adjust accordingly like they said, but then my point stands- whats the point of a grading system if you're not going to use it?
Did you not listen? The important thing is that grades make sense relative to each other on the board. Grade difficulty differs from gym to gym, board to board, crag to crag, country to country. In reality it's just a metric to measure the difficulty of something to other things in that same environment. If you have an issue with that it's just ego. It doesn't matter if a moonboard 7A is harder than a soft gym 7A. It's all just a guide to allow you to train effectively. Once you understand your ability on the moonboard at whatever grade use that to determine what is hard and not!
Half of the problems will end up being graded 6b+ anyways so you can just ignore the grades and climb what looks most interesting 😉
Having so many "revisions" of the board ruins the concept to me... Great video tho!