ALL my secrets about ENDURANCE
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- Опубліковано 24 чер 2024
- I'm training in Innsbruck in these days, and I can show you one of my training on double routes while I'm answering your questions about endurance climbing training.
Thanks Coros for this collaboration, you can find the datas of this training here:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
00:00 Warm up
1:58 My 2024 goals
4:09 Subscribe for Excalibur Uncut
4:53 Onsight or just train endurance?
6:16 How do you track progress?
8:57 First set
12:35 How often do you train endurance?
14:20 Endurance and power in the same training?
16:09 Training on a small board
16:59 Second set
19:50 Endurance on a small wall
21:25 Endurance for competitions
23:00 Fear of falling
24:24 Third set
28:00 4x4 boulders
29:35 Fourth set
32:07 Coros Datas
Special Thanks Sara for the cold belays, Crimp Films and Coros #trainwithCoros - Спорт
Stefano:
"this year, my goal is to do EVERYTHING"
"This year, I want to win the Olympics, send the hardest sport route, and the hardest boulder problem in the world." 🥲
Ah , OK....we should warm up on a 7b route....knew something was wrong with my training
I know you're joking but this is still very useful info. I imagine he can routinely onsight up to at least 8c. This means he's warming up with routes that are super easy for him. I definitely warm up on routes that are too close to my onsight level.
Considering he climbs 9c that means if you climb 5.12 you should probably warm up on 5.9. Only issue I have with that is most 9s are juggy and don't engage my fingers and don't have much movement variability.
Don't forget the last 7C+ to finish your warmup or you will be suffering
@@TheSubieFan I try to do hangboard/ lifting pin with a tension block a bit before climbing as part of my warm up stretching.
@@TheSubieFan you can choose to grip jugs any which way you want, you can open hand, 3 finger drag, half crimp.
stefano going Olympics 🥇➡silence✅➡burden✅ would be the greatest climbing season ever had
I love seeing people have seasons like that. Sean Bailey had one of those recently 💪
Idk man maybe Jakob Schubert last year
@@therealbatman8085 burden>alphane, olympics > world champs, silence > BIG
And adam ondras 2013 is still the best anyone has ever done
what did ondra do in 2013? i would sat climbing a 9c V17 and World Cup champ is the best year someone has had@@rdtarcade7644
@@rdtarcade7644janja?
Stefano the 6C climber
because 6c+ is too hard
Now we need a power video Stefano. Can you show us your power training?
yes we can do the same for power training!
Stefano: "on hard routes I don't wear the watch" - proceeds to climb 8b twice in a row, wearing the watch.
Beast! 🤘
Love these videos man!! Keep it up!!
8a, not a warm up. Got it. Invaluable information 👍 😂
So many world-class comp climbers are just great individuals.
That's an impressive set of goals for the year 😮 Excited to see how it goes!
Thanks Stefano for sharing! I really appreciate your video. You are a Legend!
This is the best tutorial I have seen about endurance training. Thank you.
Bravissimo Stefano! Finalmente un arrampicatore di altissimo livello che spiega in dettaglio un suo allenamento, veramente utilissimo! Spero tu ne faccia uno anche sul power! Non vediamo l'ora di vederti alle olimpiadi! 💪👍
Love the sound editing on this one!
Great insight! Thanks.
Great vid dude.
19:02 INCREDIBLE COMPOSITION / SHOT
Super interesting video! Best of luck for the Olympics
Ti auguro di riuscire in tutto quello che hai detto!! Forza Stefano!!!
All best Stefano!
Nice vid. I am hoping Coros adds these features to the pace 2 watch.
GL this year Stefano
Amazing training
Fricken rad. Will be referencing this again and again
What I like about your training is that it is repeat-able at any level.
Stefano is warming up on my max dream goals... ok, minute 1 :D
Very helpfull!
Stefano falling on 5.13d is like me falling walking up the stairs
Thanks Stefano. Interesting take on fear of falling. I always struggle when I do a lot of bouldering and I’m returning to lead after few weeks. I have to do a few falls beforehand as otherwise I can’t focus on climbing as I constantly think about where will I end up in case I fall or if my belayer is focused 😅 after I do a few control falls it feels a bit easier.
I don’t know how you and Adam do it and skip clips without even thinking about it. Completely different world.
Good luck with Olympics qualifiers. I’ll definitely be keeping my fingers crossed for you
I think the key for skipping clips is being in a situation where you know that you will be safe taking a big fall... They typically only do that when it's overhanging and there's nothing to hit by taking a bigger whip. Of course, they have enough experience to judge when they are in those situations. Jakob Schubert took a huge whip working project Big when he skipped a few clips in a section that he didn't think he was likely to fall, but he slipped off and fell a long ways... he was completely fine though since it was very high off the ground on steep terrain.
Great video! Looking forward to many more to come!
I would advise you to set up the heart rate zones to display YOUR actual zones rather than the factory pre-set up ones.
There are different approaches how you can do that.
The ideal one is to perform a VO2 max stress test. It will be most accurate determining your max HR. But it not always accessible for everyone.
Another common one and the simplest one is by equation:
220 - your age
From that you manually set up the zones:
Zone 1: 50-60% of HRmax
Zone 2: 60-70% of HRmax.
Zone 3: 70-80% of HRmax.
Zone 4: 80-90% of HRmax.
Zone 5: 90-100% of HRmax.
Good advice thanks!
@@steghiso you are very welcome!
Have fun and enjoy the process!
I think most important in endurance is to think to have..so you can climb in a calm and effektiv style 😊
I still have the rule of after your last route in the gym you go to the pull-up bar and hang until failure. Add that, Stefano and i guarantee you'll podium in lead.
Hey Stefano! Awesome video as always! What are your thoughts about weighted pull-ups for climbing?
I never tried them, I don't think they are very useful
Super valuable video! Thanks for posting, and good luck with your goals this year!
For a few years I’ve been following a training plan by the Anderson brothers (the book is “Rock Climbers Training Manual”) which separates the training season into phases: base, strength, power, power endurance. The idea is to focus on one aspect of training, for example the strength phase is only hangboarding for 5 weeks. Then you move to the next phase. I’ve gotten good results, but I noticed that you train different systems throughout the week. This is more similar to the way that athletes train for sports like running, where different systems are trained throughout each week, and each week adds some volume or intensity.
Since you’re in the pro climbing world, can you comment on which type of training most pro climbers do? Should that be different for recreational climbers?
I think the best would be to focus on one aspect in one period, but not 100%. for example usually the fisrt period month is focus on power, but with one of 2 endurance training, then slowly adding more power endurance and endurance training in the next periods, but not doing just one thing, if your goal is to climb routes. I always train a bit of endurance, even when the focus is power in that period
I feel like what isn't really ever said is that your mind gets weak/tired the more you climb in a session. But there is also the second wind thing that sometimes happens and it feels like you climb better than ever.
Great video Stefano, nice to see a lot of climbing! Do you have a coach that help you with training schedules, or do you do it yourself?
I have a trainer, his name is Roberto Bagnoli
I‘m very surprised that heart rate is a relevant climbing measure. I always thought, cardio fitness is less important for climbing performance.
What about more climbing specific measures, such as critical force? Do you consider them in your endurance training as well?
Thanks for providing such informative content!
Thanks, Stefano, for this peek into your training. Do you find overhangs to train endurance more, or were these routes/this wall chosen just because it was the big, open, outside wall?
Yes overhanging wall are usually better to train endurance, you are hanging more on the arms and have less spots to rest
Are you going to try "des Kaisers neue Kleider" in the wilde Kaiser Mountainrange? you don't life far away from the Route and its Perfect for endurance training! ;) it's a verry pumpy multypitch route!
Grande video!
Never heard of it, but multipitches are now not my focus
@@steghisoÈ una delle tre vie che vengono considerate parte della trilogia alpina. Penso che per un pó fossero le vie più difficili delle Alpi. Non penso che un 8b+ alpino sia un grande allenamento per le competizioni😂, però sicuramente una bella zona quella che ti ha consigliato.
Nel wilder Kaiser ci sono un botto di vie alpine storiche (era dove andava in giro Dülfer), belle passeggiate e belle ferrate. Probabilmente conosci Schleierwasserfall, falesia lì vicino dove gira spesso Schubert
Thanks stephano for the good content !
I got a question in mind; i am climbing around 7a/7b, would it be better to progress to do some low intensity/low grades but good quality climbing, or do high intensity/ max grades ? or do a mix of both ?
Thanks again
you can learn a lot even climbing below your grade, so I'd suggest both!
@@steghisoThank you!
yo i warmed up on the same yellow 7b+ last time😌
Hei stefano, is it really useful to take track of heart rate in climbing type endurance? As Eva Lopez Rivera studies demonstrate, in climb Is crucial the local forearm endurance, not the general one that instead heart rate measures. Or else a general cardio activity should also be enaugth. It would be great if you show us the HR graph when you do hangboard forearm endurance 7:3.. I bet HR will stay relative low, because not pushing with the leg. Share your thought about that will be apreciated!
Which excercies do you do to increase your finger power
Curious to know what your heart rate range was during these climbs?
Any thoughts on DNA ?
Siiiiiick
OK, I want you to accomplish that goals, but please after that do a video that u have 10a as a goal for 2025 :D
How long are the routes at the training wall in Innsbruck? You are doing 2 routes, but maybe at a smaller gym you would need 3 or 4?
Hi Stefano. If u train endurance 2 times a week and strenght 3 times a weak how do you regenerate then? Isnt training 5 times a week too much for the body? Are you actually improving in long term?
One thing you didn't really touch on was how you select your difficulty level of routes for this endurance training. Based on your falls I assume you choose routes at approximately your onsight ability? Does pump come into play for your selection (do you try to avoid getting too pumped)? Also curious if you do easier routes or ARC training for endurance (or if you used to do this but not anymore)?
I choose a route I know I can do it or fall towards the end
I’ve a doubt about hangboard trainning. What is better/harder 7”:3” or 10:5”? Good luckk with ur goals🤟🏻🤟🏻🤟🏻🤟🏻
I've always done 7 3
Are you still using the watch and after a few months do you still find it useful ? Id be curious to see how you use tha data.
good video who do you think has the best endurance today ?
Probably Toby Roberts!
13:00 😂😂😂😂
In the 3rd set u clip the chains in the second go back to back, you think it is because you knew the route and you are more confident or efficient. Or because you know you can do it and you do a bigger effort to top it ??
I knew the route and climbed it faster and more efficiently
Do you think about trying B.I.G. in Flatanger? Wouldn't that route suite you strengths (endurance, efficient at resting) even better than Silence?
Yes, I'd like to try it, but now that I'm closer to Silence I wanna focus on that one, and than move to something else!
Anyone got a video tutorial on how he tied in at 1.04?
which coros watch you have!? i search for a new watch for myself
Apex Pro 2!
I might be confusing endurance and arc training with the level of intensity they are meant to be but it still seems like you are working too hard and producing too much fatigue to be effectively training endurance. This isn't being confused with power endurance training is it?
How do you train to recover while resting? I find myself on harder routes getting pumped while resting on the routes
I do it on the circuits, try to set a circuit with forced rests
Do you train endurance mainly for the forearm/grip?
Do your arms and shoulders always naturally have enough endurance?
Any tips for recovering on a route?
On a route the muscle that gets pump is the forearm, you are almost never pumped in any other body part, sometimes the legs on some tiring kneebars, so you don't really need endurance for these. for recovering on a route I try to shake one arm at the time and focus on the feelings on my arm, feel the blood inside my veins and positively thinking it is recovering well, then switch arm and do the same for the other one. It's a mental trick, maybe a bit of placebo but if you feel confident and rested it means it works
@@steghiso Interesting!
I had a friend at uni doing their honours on muscle fatigue.
Basically, they can't find the physiological mechanism for fatigue in the muscles themselves. They think the brain is keeping track of how much work each muscle is doing, and when the muscle has done a certain amount of work, the brain decides it's tired.
According to this theory, endurance training is not only about improving the blood supply to the muscle, but also re-calibrating the brain about how much work is okay for a muscle to do.
So there's some science behind thinking your way into recovery!
PS. You've totally got Burden in the bag :)
@@bongosock Is this study openly accessible or where could you find it? It seems very interesting.
Psaaat
How about doing three to four routes back to back? 🙃
if the routes are not long enough yes, in innsbruck are very long and 2 are OK
Do you drastically switch your training program when the competition season ends
Yes, usually I just go on rock
I don’t understand how you can recover so fast. Being completely pumped on the last set after the first go on the 8b (at least it looks like you fell because you were tired and not because you made a mistake) and then you just hop on after pulling the rope and do it?!? How is that even possible.
I don't know either
I guess this must be attributed to his efficient endurance levels which allows him to recover that much in such a short time
well at least we are at the same lvl on some things..... 8a is no longer warm-up
How much time of rest between are the rests when doing this double routes program?
15 minutes
Just to clarify. I think that is almost no rest between the first and second climb then 15min of rest after you ave done a 2 climb set
Oh so you want to qualify for the Olympics, climb silence and burden in the next year. Same as me then. Good luck!
Just so we’re clear, your goals for the year are to qualify for the Olympics, then travel to the hardest route in the world, and then the hardest boulder in the world. You definitely can’t fault your ambition😅
which watch is that specifically?
Coros Apex Pro 2
How do you train for bouldering?
We can do a whole video about it, hard to answer it in a comment!
Dai Ste svelaci i tuoi segreti cosi faccio anch'io Sarre2000 con gli scarponi da sci !!
Come on Stefano, tell me Your segret so I can do SARRE 2000 no foot or may be with ski boots.. !! ah ah ah ha
Hi Stefano, I don't know what I lack to improve my climbing, I am 16-turning 17 in may and the hardest I climbed is 8B. Is that bad in comparison to 16yo world class climbers? Do you think I should do 2 interval trainings per week or raise it up to 3 times per week?
if you can't do at least 8c why are you still climbing? change sport my friend :P
@@pierftw :D I mean, I know its good but, how good? and how do I improve beyond that ?
@@pierftw I take that 8c as challenge ;D
@@bratislavkrstonosic720 i have no idea bro i climb 6c 😭😂
For me doubles is more in the power endurance bracket, no?
it should be endurance
@@steghiso how do YOU train power endurance then?
I guess we can shoot a whole new video about it
@@steghiso that'd be perfetto!
Io dico che fra un po' puoi iniziare a farle triple! E poi mi farei aiutare da qualcuno a ripartire più rapidamente possibile, quindi seconda corda e secondo gri gri pronti e la prima corda ci pensa qualcun'altro a liberarla! Può aver senso!? Qua volgiamo l'oro :D e sembra fattibile
Le triple vanno bene, a Innsbruck le vie sono Abbastanza lunghe che doppie bastano, ma il tempo che perdi tra una via è l'altra non è così importante
@@steghiso Capito! grazie per la risposta :)
What kind of watch was that
What do you think about climbing routes with heavy jacket? Like 5kg jacket
I do it sometimes, but just if there are not routes or boulders hard enough
Do you take supplements?
I used to, but not now, i feel like I'm eating well enough and don't need them rn
@@steghiso thanks for the reply, I wonder if you ever took creatine and what is your opinion on it ? Does it make sense for climber?
yes definitely creatine is one of the best supplements and if you expect to see gains especially regarding strength it is worth to take 5 grams every day
@@MegaBimelHoopers Beta did a great video on Creatine recently. Recommend checking it out to get some good info on this.
@@stopa7284 @steghiso but you also gain weight, so im not sure if its suitable. Especially if someone eats meat already, for vegetarian its probably a better fit. Would be interesting to hear a pro climber on that one. Maybe in the next vid?
"Luca tinozzi asked".... = literally thought he said "look at the nazi" for sure did a double take.