They are the least repeated benchmarks because they are the newest. Jete was created a long time ago, but just designated as a benchmark a couple weeks ago so people have ignored it until now.
Exactly! If you find and try the least repeated of the old problems of each grade you will probably discover what a true sandbagged moonboard problem feels like! For example “Old Man Crew 6c” feels harder than many 7B’s 😅.
However if you look for the least repeated benchmarks on the 2016 set you will find colossal sandbags because people have had years to try them all, there's less catch-up going on.
Rhos is a moonbeast! She annihilated almost every single problem. Respect! I really enjoyed your video. However, in our gym we have the oldest set of holds and I feel that there are a lot more cut lose moves than on this one. It just might be my impression.
The discussion at the end was interesting, with Rhos arguing the MB is a good training tool and Josh seeming less sure. Would love a video that explored that a bit more - just how well does board climbing translate to performance on the wall / on rock? I agree it's fun chasing benchmarks, but is it useful?
nice that in the end Josh mentions he has improved as a climber but hasn't on the board. As someone climbing exclusively in the gym at the moment (not by choice, but good outdoor spots are just too far away), as gym grades are so inconsistent across time the only real objective measure of climbing performance I have is the gym's moonboard. I haven't trained on it for a while and just got back on it recently, I felt quite bad that even though I feel like I improved a bit on the wall I couldn't do my old board projects anymore, let alone harder grades. So this perspective gives some consolidation to me :)
Woooo Moonboarding!!! I love the moonboard!! :) Honestly, the benchmarks that are the most popular have the best movement but tend to also be a bit soft compared to the other climbs in the same grade. My thought with that is that the grade difficulty of the 'most fun movement' tends to be easier for people because its what they most practice in, the climbs with the worst movement in the same grade tend to feel harder because its movement the climber is not as familiar with and thus the difficulty feels a lot harder. The moonboard is a great tool to practice a variety of movement on a 40degree wall for all grade ranges, but its not the be all tool as climbing isn't all at 40 degrees. (coming from me this is saying a lot) I will say moonboard for me is the best more fun way to train finger strength and power. There are other tools to do so, perhaps in a safer more controlled manner, but a tool that allows me to be hyper competitive through a ranking system will hold my interest and focus far longer. Thoughts on all 3 setups for training - 2016 - best for straight crimping training, tend to be not as spanny 2017 - best for training odd grip positions and ability to power off of weird positions 2019 - best for pinch and compression, (disclaimer some benchmarks tend to be super spanny/reachy)
You guys make this look too easy! I'm climbing 6B+/6C at my local gyms and find even the 'warmup problem' (6A+) extremely difficult, so it hurt a bit when you said it was a fair grade 😂. It's certainly its own style. Thanks for the beta!
Yeah, it's certainly a world of it's own. Although actually I find that the grading matches quite well to outdoor bouldering in Finland. Even the climbing style is somewhat similar.
@@AnttiAlajuuma The moonboard is so popular that it is used as a reference for new outdoor climbs. So it makes sense that it matches the outdoor grades
The moonboard is great, but after using a tension board it feels outdated. Limited hold types and movement patterns. It use to be groundbreaking, but now feels somewhat archaic. Newer board makers have taken the great invention Ben came up with and taken it to the next level. Moon needs to revamp and catch up.
Glad to see I'm not the only one randomly popping off those multiplex holds. For some reason they also seem to pull small chunks out of my skin that then start as stress risers and wear off the rest of the skin. For me it doesn't happen nearly as much on "natural" wooden holds like those hardwood holds sells, and even the very rough ones I've made myself are friendlier on the skin than the moonboard wood. My skin is also fairly thick but wears away fast and gets super sweaty. Also in the shower they prune up about twice as fast as normal. Is yours similar?
Josh speaking here, and just my opinion! But a lot of moves feel like 'REALLY high foot and jump/deadpoint'. However this might just be the popular climbs and benchmarks. There are of course also hundreds of climbs and options for stretched out positions. p.s. I am 1.83.
As a fellow tall person: Yes. Aside from high feet, scrunched up sit starts, including super low ones, dropknees are super challenging for me because I often get pulled so far away from the wall, even extending really far it's even harder to keep tension or not cut feet.
That's cool. I've never seen an app controlled wall. I'm new to the sport so that says a lot, but still. Gotta ask our local climbing gym about this...Thank you 👍👍
Just beware, the easiest grade problems on the moonboard are 6a+, and even then (like they say in the video) the moonboard grading is not necessarily the same as on your regular wall. At least for me (I climb ~6b in my gym) the 6a+ problems on the Moonboard pack a mean punch. Helps to stomp the ego :D
At my local gym has a wooden board but you can't put feet on the hand holds. It has resin holds especially for feet only. Silly question but Why are some boards allow feet on them & others not?
Y’all did my climb :) Jete (it is from ballet so French pronunciation). There is only one true board and it is the Moonboard. Rhos!! Omg tell me you have some 2019 sets for all of us to climb 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Work with a rice bucket to increase pinch strength. There are 10 exercises start at 1 min per exercise then work up to 2 min per exercise. At the end of each session, second to last exercise do 2 min of 3 second fistful squeezes and then finish with a full hand fistful squeeze for 2 min.
@@howtomountaingoat Have you tried it, or added it to your bi-daily routine? Give it a go for several months and you will experience what i'm talking about. I typically don't do much training, but due to a wrist injury i did the rice bucket exercises for 6 months, and when i finally went back to climbing my pinch strength had actually improved and everything else had waned.
I'm actually quite disappointed that you are also spreading false information, such as hooks on the moonboard being forbidden(5:22). Why don't you just read through the official rules?🤷🏻♂️
They are the least repeated benchmarks because they are the newest. Jete was created a long time ago, but just designated as a benchmark a couple weeks ago so people have ignored it until now.
Thanks! Good knowledge!
Exactly! If you find and try the least repeated of the old problems of each grade you will probably discover what a true sandbagged moonboard problem feels like! For example “Old Man Crew 6c” feels harder than many 7B’s 😅.
However if you look for the least repeated benchmarks on the 2016 set you will find colossal sandbags because people have had years to try them all, there's less catch-up going on.
nah there are definitly a few which are really hard for the grade or not that nice, thats why
You should do this again on the 2016 set! See how you actually compare to your old climbing.
Rhos is flipping amazing. so good to watch. thanks for the upload
Lot's to learn from just watching you guys climb. Thanks for this!
Rhos is a moonbeast! She annihilated almost every single problem. Respect! I really enjoyed your video. However, in our gym we have the oldest set of holds and I feel that there are a lot more cut lose moves than on this one. It just might be my impression.
The discussion at the end was interesting, with Rhos arguing the MB is a good training tool and Josh seeming less sure. Would love a video that explored that a bit more - just how well does board climbing translate to performance on the wall / on rock? I agree it's fun chasing benchmarks, but is it useful?
I feel like it'll make you strong as fuck, but the technique you'll learn on it doesn't really transfer that well to most other kinds of climbing
nice that in the end Josh mentions he has improved as a climber but hasn't on the board. As someone climbing exclusively in the gym at the moment (not by choice, but good outdoor spots are just too far away), as gym grades are so inconsistent across time the only real objective measure of climbing performance I have is the gym's moonboard. I haven't trained on it for a while and just got back on it recently, I felt quite bad that even though I feel like I improved a bit on the wall I couldn't do my old board projects anymore, let alone harder grades. So this perspective gives some consolidation to me :)
Josh might be dyslexic, but he'll definitely read betas better than i do. Awesome video!
Woooo Moonboarding!!! I love the moonboard!! :)
Honestly, the benchmarks that are the most popular have the best movement but tend to also be a bit soft compared to the other climbs in the same grade. My thought with that is that the grade difficulty of the 'most fun movement' tends to be easier for people because its what they most practice in, the climbs with the worst movement in the same grade tend to feel harder because its movement the climber is not as familiar with and thus the difficulty feels a lot harder. The moonboard is a great tool to practice a variety of movement on a 40degree wall for all grade ranges, but its not the be all tool as climbing isn't all at 40 degrees. (coming from me this is saying a lot)
I will say moonboard for me is the best more fun way to train finger strength and power. There are other tools to do so, perhaps in a safer more controlled manner, but a tool that allows me to be hyper competitive through a ranking system will hold my interest and focus far longer.
Thoughts on all 3 setups for training -
2016 - best for straight crimping training, tend to be not as spanny
2017 - best for training odd grip positions and ability to power off of weird positions
2019 - best for pinch and compression, (disclaimer some benchmarks tend to be super spanny/reachy)
2 sessions in on the 2019 😭 v5 back to v3 climber
You guys make this look too easy! I'm climbing 6B+/6C at my local gyms and find even the 'warmup problem' (6A+) extremely difficult, so it hurt a bit when you said it was a fair grade 😂. It's certainly its own style. Thanks for the beta!
Exactly the same for me! Just had my first moonboard session yesterday... no send! :D
Yeah, it's certainly a world of it's own. Although actually I find that the grading matches quite well to outdoor bouldering in Finland. Even the climbing style is somewhat similar.
Same! Just started. 1 send on first sesh 😅 2016 Masters, all holds, 25 degree
@@AnttiAlajuuma The moonboard is so popular that it is used as a reference for new outdoor climbs. So it makes sense that it matches the outdoor grades
Heels are allowed on the Moonboard, as per the official rules on their website. (5:20)
Would love a comparison video on the kilter board! Especially grade wise, currently debating on what would be best for my home wall.
Love the moonboard content. We need more! :D
The fact that Rhos threw the biggest spoiler out there without anyone noticing at 17:15😂
Wow. Very nice to watch Rhos climbing ! It inspired me a lot
Love a video in this format on the 40° kilter board! Good vid anyway!🤙🏼
‘Is there a sport where sweaty hands are better for it’……’swimming?’ ahaha! Seriously underrated comic moment hahaha
YT: How often do you want the "like - subscribe - bell" animation in your video?
Lattice: Yes
😅
Can you do a moonboard masters style comp between all the coaches?
I first watch educational climbing videos about technique and then I watch these videos to see if they use those techniques. Great way to learn XD
Rhos' beta on For Big (at 17:44) was inspired. I have hope! At least until I try it myself and find out I'm not strong enough, that is... haha
- Dave
Would love an episode exclusively on the reverse pogo. It seems next level.
We'll have to get Rhos in again to show us this expert level move!
Ganja Garnbret, Bony Hawk. Instant classics.
great video, would love to see something similar for the kilter board as that's the one in my gym
Nice video, in french jeté, (jete in the video) means a dyno😉
Rhos is literally perfect
Rhos' moonboard skill pales in comparison to how deep her words cut
It would be great to see you climbing on the 2016 set too
Notice the crucial head bobs from Josh
This is really useful content, thank you! What moonboard set up is being used here?
Thanks. Kilter would be great
I thought the Tinder joke deserved more appreciation
18:45 Nice one Rhos sabotaging Josh with bad beta 🤪
Nice video! Find a mini moonboard and test that!
Moonboard is great for long-limb people, for many of us it is impossible to start just because we need to cut loose from the very beginning
The moonboard is great, but after using a tension board it feels outdated. Limited hold types and movement patterns. It use to be groundbreaking, but now feels somewhat archaic. Newer board makers have taken the great invention Ben came up with and taken it to the next level. Moon needs to revamp and catch up.
No lol. The tension board is just good at a different style, plus the tension board quite literally only has ~20 different holds
Different style
Wow Rhos has crazy good body tension!
Glad to see I'm not the only one randomly popping off those multiplex holds. For some reason they also seem to pull small chunks out of my skin that then start as stress risers and wear off the rest of the skin. For me it doesn't happen nearly as much on "natural" wooden holds like those hardwood holds sells, and even the very rough ones I've made myself are friendlier on the skin than the moonboard wood.
My skin is also fairly thick but wears away fast and gets super sweaty. Also in the shower they prune up about twice as fast as normal. Is yours similar?
Interesting. Yes my skin sounds the same as yours! Good to meet a fellow climber with terrible skin for climbing ;)
Is the Moonboard considered hard for tall people? I’m 1.89 and most footholds are at what feels like shoulder level 🥺
Josh speaking here, and just my opinion! But a lot of moves feel like 'REALLY high foot and jump/deadpoint'. However this might just be the popular climbs and benchmarks. There are of course also hundreds of climbs and options for stretched out positions. p.s. I am 1.83.
As a fellow tall person: Yes. Aside from high feet, scrunched up sit starts, including super low ones, dropknees are super challenging for me because I often get pulled so far away from the wall, even extending really far it's even harder to keep tension or not cut feet.
That's cool. I've never seen an app controlled wall. I'm new to the sport so that says a lot, but still. Gotta ask our local climbing gym about this...Thank you 👍👍
Just beware, the easiest grade problems on the moonboard are 6a+, and even then (like they say in the video) the moonboard grading is not necessarily the same as on your regular wall.
At least for me (I climb ~6b in my gym) the 6a+ problems on the Moonboard pack a mean punch. Helps to stomp the ego :D
@@RimshotKiller Thank for the tip 👍
At my local gym has a wooden board but you can't put feet on the hand holds. It has resin holds especially for feet only. Silly question but Why are some boards allow feet on them & others not?
Awesome video:)
Y’all did my climb :) Jete (it is from ballet so French pronunciation). There is only one true board and it is the Moonboard.
Rhos!! Omg tell me you have some 2019 sets for all of us to climb 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I also thought the pronunciation of Jete was a bit jarring there. Seeing the name kept making me expect a specific type of movement when I did it.
Is that red/orange shirt available to buy online?
Not at the moment. But we are working on marking some merch available this summer :)
what set are they climbing on?
2019 masters
Love how none of mine are used…🤦♂️😂
Work with a rice bucket to increase pinch strength. There are 10 exercises start at 1 min per exercise then work up to 2 min per exercise. At the end of each session, second to last exercise do 2 min of 3 second fistful squeezes and then finish with a full hand fistful squeeze for 2 min.
why would such high volume low intensity rice training create adaptation for maximal pinch strength like you would use on the moonboard?
@@howtomountaingoat
Have you tried it, or added it to your bi-daily routine?
Give it a go for several months and you will experience what i'm talking about. I typically don't do much training, but due to a wrist injury i did the rice bucket exercises for 6 months, and when i finally went back to climbing my pinch strength had actually improved and everything else had waned.
its bayytah not beetah
I'm actually quite disappointed that you are also spreading false information, such as hooks on the moonboard being forbidden(5:22). Why don't you just read through the official rules?🤷🏻♂️
Haha sorry todark. This is just a joke but maybe the British sarcasm is too dry.
@@LatticeTraining Or I've just heard that so many times that I'm now allergic to that phrase.😅