You were supposed to flush the system of the original oil before adding the engine flush. Also they recommend you drive the car for 1-2 hours before draining
You're not the first person to think and share this and typically I don't humor posts like yours but for the sake of data integrity, let's see what you can offer to backup why what you're describing is the correct process and that "they" (since you're claiming Liqui Moly themselves are doing this recommendation) are the source info. Because: No. A) It says the process right on the can. Add to old oil, idle for 10 mins, drain, replace with fresh oil and filter B) It says it identical process on their info sheet, directly from the LM website, and it's even on their updated Engine Flush Plus product (in other words, if they felt the process needed to change, they could have updated it when that product was released, but they didn't). And here's that document: pim.liqui-moly.de/pdf/en_GB/liqui/16/P003601 What's recommended vs. what you *could* do are entirely different things. I'll pin this post so if you can find some verified, contradictory evidence from LM on the process, you can bathe in all the glory.
@@FigureItAudi Gotta love how people will just parrot everything they read or heard somewhere as facts without having even put in the slightest effort to fact-check. Liquid Moly has a (german) forum specifically to answer your questions and recommendations and there they clearly don´t recommend driving the car. They specifically wrote to not drive at all, not even onto a ramp or a lift! 👍
Sorry, NOWHERE on the Liqui Moly Pro Line Engine Flush can does it state "Drive the engine for 1-2 hours". What it does say is - " 500 ml is sufficient for up to 5 l of oil. Add to motor oil at operating temperature before an oil change. After adding the product, allow the engine to idle for 10 - 15 minutes depending on the degree of contamination. Then change the oil and the filter". You are giving out false information that could result in someone damaging their engine on the basis of your misinformation. If you don't know the facts then please don't offer any advice.
Man videos like this is what youtube should be about, instead of clickbait ramble videos. It's really refreshing to see videos like this. Great job dude !
The Oil Filter will trap deposits removed by Liquid Moly engine Flush. The filter paper before and after simple shows you have a working oil filter. Any particles you see in the filter paper are just deposits that haven't been filtered out yet in the cycle.
@meateater4life551 A lot of people that are just getting in to maintenance may not realise this. I'm guessing that you are watching this because you are already a mechanical genius but have nothing bettr to do.
One thing you want to crank the engine until the compression stops building, if you limit it to 5 cranks only you set your self up for failure especially when comparing to another reading. This is because the piston can be a a different part of it's stroke, theres 4 phases to a complete rotation, and if you start the test a a different part of the phase and stop a 5 you can get a higher lower reading if that piston is on its power stroke or sat exhaust stroke.
@@jerryx2000 he just said his opinion, that it was imperfectly tested(so if he hasn’t tried it, hU knows)👋 good test thO, but 2 big snafUs- cR was already in good shape & not enuf rotations for comp. check(good test thO, much more competent than most stuff on youtube - but those 2 snafUs make it tough to see)✋
@@jerryx2000s someone who does this for a living, I will tell you diesel and transmission fluid do the exact same thing. Now I would tell you for a fraction of the price, but with inflation these days, that's no longer true. However, I always took half a liter of 50/50 diesel-transmission fluid mix and it worked like a charm to dissolve sludge. One thing you should always do is once you run the flush, you should drop the oil pan and check for any debris that may have oozed to the bottom and is now blocking the pick up tube.
This is the most thorough review for this type of product I've ever seen. Fantastic work! I just came across this video in my searching of the liqui moly proline flush, was just watching each video as it came up. Started watching this and thought how odd i hadn't heard of this channel, it must be pretty well established to be doing a video of this quality...quick glance down...537 subs?? wtf? I was expecting like 500k?! Liked and subscribed immediately! Really well done on the video structure, audio and video quality too, I'll be sharing it with my car friends. Came here to watch the review of the engine flush before I use it in my S2000, stayed and watched the whole video because of the quality content!
@@FigureItAudi you are doing a very good job there ! please keep up with the great topics and video. :) , already subscribed and clicked the notification bell! :)
Excellent production values - narrative and speed. Straight to the point no click bait waffle and UA-cam tutorials at there best here - well done - if only they were all like this 😮 👍👍
It lowered the compression on the three cylinders slightly because it broke down some of the gelatinized oil-carbon buildup which, to a point, actually seals the compression chamber more. This is before it gets too bad and starts to become very acidic and etch away at the linings, lowering compression.
@8:15 OMG. This is the first video/article that I've seen someone state or show the expected cylinder compression pressures for each engine size. I tested my 2008 1.8TFSI engine 6 months ago and got 124psi across all 4 cylinders. I was encouraged by the consistent readings but quite a bit worried they were actually all low and indicative of a problem. Whilst slightly on the low side it's a real comfort knowing they are all still well above the wear limit of 109psi. Thank you for your video.
The lower compression is because the carbon in the good cylinders, 1,2 and 3, actually have formed to the internals, so when removing, expose minute new compression leakage areas. On your number 4 cylinder, you had carbon holding open your exhaust valves from the heat being greater in the back of the cam. Because of that, less engravnedd carbon on your sidewalls but now your exhaust valves seat all the way because the carbon deposits are no longer holding it open. I've learned this because this is a common problem on first and second Gen coyote engines.
Awesome results. The flush freed up the rings on cylinder 4. Usually, you need to soak the rings over night with solevant. Plus the engine flush. To get those kind or results on an Audi
The increase in compression on cylinder 4, is likely due to the Ligui Moly removing/cleaning carbon from the rings on that cylinder allowing them to rotate and work properly during the combustion process. Therefore restoring the lost compression.
Or maybe the firsts low measurement was just an outlier, and it's only a coincidence that it's after applying the cleaner where the value is in line with the other cylinders. If LiquiMoly would have worked that well, how do you explain the lower compression on the other cylinders? Or the lower compression in the wet test on cylinder 1? Any decent engine oil will keep particles suspended anyways, there's a ton of emulsifiers and additives in the oil. If something is so much baked in that a regular (and on-time) oil change won't dissolve it anymore, a mild cleaner like LiquiMoly enginge flush won't get it loose in 10min either. You'd need a really aggressive cleaner, which you obviously don't want to mix in your oil and then run the engine. And it's very likely taking more time than a couple minutes, unless you can support it with mechanical cleaning, e.g. an ultrasonic bath or just scraping the bulk of carbon deposits off after taking the engine apart.
@@smurface549 Well, Any modern oil has detergent among its additive package, no big news here. However as the oil ages, the levels of detergent get lower and the cleaning property of an engine oil degrades as well as its friction reduction properties, which is why we have to change it. LM Flushing additive is indeed some detergent to restore a higher level and help cleaning the engine. Back in the days you could also use flushing oil that was high in detergent but that kind of products was often too aggressive for engines and would damage certain parts in the process, hence their bad reputation and eventually that kind of products almost disappeared from the market. As a result using such additives for making cleaner oil change is good because it allows the oil to regain its cleaning properties with a little more punch. In this case I can imagine that the cylinder n° 4was running hotter than the rest, probably because of insufficient injection. as a result the oil cooked more in this cylinder and created deposit that eventually prevent the piston ring from moving freely in their grove and thus degraded the compression. But you're right, certain really bad situation will require disassembly and thorough cleaning with other means. I do believe that engine flush used regularly, especially on engines that tend to burn oil (American and European engines mostly) is good and help preventing more expensive maintenance. There is no "miracle product" but generally, Liqui Moly products work quite well for what they've been designed for.
@@craigbadder4372 absolutely no risk to clog anything with a flushing additive like Liqui Moly. However you cannot drive with it in the oil. It can only be used for 15 to 20min idling only! As the detergent level rises, lubrication also diminishes and it's not meant to be used in an engine that is going partial or full charge. Oil flush additive has to be used with caution but as long as you follow the instructions, it's perfectly safe to use.
In the first reading, all cylinders are low, and the reason is that the engine did not reach operating temperature after that, in the second reading, after the engine reached operating temperature, it seems that all cylinders are equal in pressure. Thank you for this video, wishing you success always
Interesting that you say that. I recently changed plugs on my b7 and 2 of them had the white tip shown on the video but cylinders 3 and 4 were pitch black. What does that translate to?
@@jorgeibanez5694 cylinder 1 and 2 ran too lean and 3 and 4 ran too rich (if its deep black and not shiny/wet black) residue on the spark plugs is always a sign of how the motor ran THE MOMENT it was shut off
@@Wafflebrah21 I have not had my injectors cleaned/flow tested. I got the car very recently as a “non runner” due to bad starter. There wasn’t any wet residue on the plugs, I pulled them almost immediately after shutting it off. I’ve scanned the codes and found that there was an irregular misfire on cylinder 4. Would injectors be a likely cause of that?
Enjoyed the video, clear and understandable, good attempt at the scientific method. The carbon on the cylinder walls is just a reflection. they are actually honed to mirror reflection and your seeing the edge of the piston. The varnish will never come off unless you use an industrial solvent and apply pressure or physical contact, such as you might see in a machine shop. Next time, flush the engine with brand new oil, take a sample, then add the Engine Flush. Then take another sample. That is the proper way to do it. Companies that test engine and oil, typically flush engines 3-4 times between runs to remove any residual oil or cross contamination. These modern, DOHC, VVT engines can retain 10-20% of old oil, thus the reason to flush the engine with new oil by changing, running for 15 minutes to complete mix the oils and drain again. This will net you a 99% fresh sump. Then if you see any significant deposits, it is likely the flush or the new oil actually doing its job in cleaning the engine. Another way to evaluate oil cleanliness and see carbon and insoluables in the oil is using radial chromatography. Place two drops of used oil on the center of a blank business card. Let sit and disperse for 6-8 hours. then examine under a back light and you will see any contaminates, carbon, soot, sludge if any. Very easy and cheap. The other option is to have a lab test the oil using optical or pore type partical test methods. The machine, transportation, marine, auto and military use this to evaluate filter performance and oil cleanliness.
I've seen another LiquiMoly Engine Flush test showing very similar results. Where compression after the treatment was a bit lower. But one cylinder which tested low before the treatment was a bit higher following treatment. We should remember that temperature is a factor with compression testing. Perhaps a cold compression test, followed by a warm test, of both before and after would be helpful.
100% You have to control for as many variables as possible. I’d recommend cold crank testing so you don’t run into a hot plug stripper situation. Good for a Friday night. Bad for an engine.
I used this product and moved my oil changes to every 5k miles from the 15k that BMW specified that the previous owner did. I noticed a difference in the oil drain color 2 oil changes later. It stopped coming out dark black and now has a slight gold tint to it. I think it takes a few changes to really work. Just my $.02
Was looking for this comment. I just got a BMW 335d and the previous owner was doing the 15k/1 per year oil changes and I want to get the gunk out from that. I'm changing my oil every 5k 😂 they're out their damn minds telling people that's an acceptable change interval
mr mathew, you wouldn’t know if it’s liquid Molly or more frequent oil changes that made oil cleaner thO - 2 improvements at 1c & then one cNt tL which did the improving(unless ofcoOrs the other commentor leaves another coment after a couple oil changes)- wL 5k krispN?we’re w8ng✋
Well, with my moms car (1.4 16V Seat Arosa Sport) a couple years ago, it was burning oil at about 1L/1000km, but after flushing with forte motor flush (warm engine, 45 minutes idling with sometimes revving up ,to 1500rpm) it went down to 1L per 6500km. So that was a huge win too! (So it's nice to see you have improvements in the compression test)
Im a big fan of liquimoly products. I pair their oil with ceretec,and hydraulic lifter additive. Ive tried EVERY 5w20 oil i coild get my hands on, my temp runs 6 degrees cooler, no more valvetrain noise above the normal, it just all around is amazin. My car is almost to 200k as well. Recently used it in the wifes MDX that has oil consumption problems (3 QUARTS IN 1K MILES) and so far the dip stick is still safe, and the motor is smoother sounding. Tried Royal Purple, Pennzoil Platinum, Mobile 1, redline doesnt seem to make a 5 w 20, and if they did its twice the price. Ill never go back to the yellow,green, or purple again.
I did a Liqui Molly engine flush in my 2008 Lexus IS250 with 141k miles. I want to keep this car running for a while, because I really like it. Anyhow, after doing it, I noticed the car does seem to drive a little bit better. I do notice an improvement. Maybe I will do another engine flush later on down the line. Definitely during oil change, but maybe in another 50k miles or so.
i have an Acura g2 legend and when servicing the valvetrain of my car there was a LOT of oil buildup (prev owner was lazy on maintenance), decided to give this a try, added a bottle and ran it for about a week and a half then changed the oil and filter, repeated the process once more and changed the oil. after using this product twice in the span of a few weeks i took my valve covers off to check if it did anything and 90% of the oil buildup/carbon residue was gone and the valvetrain looked new. I 100% stand by this product, from now on im planning on throwing a bottle of this aprox 30 miles/1hr before i change my oil. if anyone knows about honda's c32a1 engines they have a habit of the hydraulic rockers making noise after a while. im not sure if this product cleaned out the buildup inside the rockers but they no longer make as much rattle as they did prior to using the engine flush
Fantastic video, almost to the level of Project Farm. However couple of big errors IMO, as others have mentioned. 1. Just crank until compression stops rising, might be 5,6,7... 2. You have a filter in the loop, so obviously where would we expect the majority of any gunk to have been deposited? Aside those peanut gallery snarks, very good and useful to see that it didn't appear to do much cleaning of carbon at all. Subbed.
If I may add something. I have been using LM Engine Flush Pro for at least 10yrs on various engines. If the engine never been flushed you have to do at least 3 flushes with fresh oil to really get rid of all the gunk. Also not 10 minutes but 30 minutes on idle. For example, in the 1.5dci Renault/Nissan engine with 15W40 inside (Yeah I know death for that engine), it took 5 flushes and 6 oil changes to keep oil clean after the oil change and 30m warmup. After this procedure engine stopped smoking blue, became quieter, and ran stronger. In my humble opinion: If you want to really clean your engine, buy a couple of LM Engine Flushes and enough cheapest oil you can buy for a couple of changes. After the last flush, change oil for the last time to the cheap oil and run it for 30m then change it (should come out quite clean) to some very good engine oil. Job is done
Appreciate it. I checked out your videos and it looks like we've got a similar spirit of content - from one VAG enthusiast to another: well done, friend.
These types of additives (I prefer BG products) really shine after 3-4-5 full engine oil changes. We’ve been putting full synthetic 5w30 and the BG “MOA” oil additive in a 2000 Camry V6 for about 6 oil changes now. The old 5k-mile oil literally comes out looking brand new at this point. The first 2-3 oil changes were DARK, the oil filter was changed out twice as often as the oil was to catch anything that was dislodged. Additive from reputable brands definitely work. (BG, LiquMoly) But you have to repeatedly use them with every oil change to actually see results. When we did the valve cover gaskets on that same Camry V6 the inside of the cylinder heads were bright and clean. No coking or any deposits. One oil change and running for 10 minutes isn’t going to do anything except clean your cylinder walls a bit. Which is exactly what you experienced. Use BG’s MOA products and you’ll see crazy results long term.
You seem like a guy who takes care of his car. The engine tarnish is nothing of the ordinary. It has no sludge, so i doubt the flush would do much for that. In my car, royal purple just changed the tarnish color to zinc yellow. The plugs clearly had issues. Thorough video man!
I used BG oil flush on an old MR2, and got 25% compression improvements overall, same plugs etc, just fresh oil. The BG product helps free up the piston rings and increases the compression, smells lovely as well. Having seen the results myself, I always use BG oil flush on every service, totally rate it.
I alternately use this and Amsoil engine flush at every oil change . The reason I think my oil doesn't come out black or dark . It comes out a golden color that I can see through as it drains . Changing oil every 5000 miles , using either Pennzoil Platinum 0W16 / Amsoil OE 0W16 and always a Amsoil filter .
Funny I did it in my Audi and change the oil from Castrol to Motul specific and surprise no more rattling at cold start. Probably cleaned make some stuck valves or the tensioner stuck. It did something for sure.
If you want all that carbon deposit cleaned from top of the pistons you should use Redline SI1 Fuel System Cleaner. When I used the product on my MK4 Golf It cleaned the pistons to a point where I was able to see the eccentric lines on top of the pistons.
Great wideo. Try this in a Diesel engine with sludge build up, then you will see what this product is capable of. Also you should have changed the oil filter and cut it open, both for the base test and after flush. Subbed!
The evened out dry numbers are a great result. Glad I used this stuff before my last oil change. The decreased wet number for cyl#1 could've just been a fluke, oil not making its way to the rings or something.
@@RealHairyPottyI think it's more to do with oil being far less viscous, cretaes more of a seal around the oil rings when the oil is thicker leading to higher compression, simply leaving the oil flush to stagnate on the sides of the cylinder walls induces lower overall compression as it is more volatile, a dommon trend I see is oil in oil flush is quite sloppy and water like, whereas oil without flush is very sludgy and thick, I work in a waste management facility and can tell when they oil we are recycling has had oil flush put through it! :) my only explanation is the bad cylinder had the oil rings cleaned, but lower overall compression due to the thin oil, the block should have been thoroughly rinsed with clean oil and a clean filter, ran for atleast 10 minutes with fresh oil then the sump oil and oil filter drained, new oil put in the filter and engine then the cylinders tested. Atleast this is my procedure anyways after having used oil flush on poorly performing engines.
The spark plug that was showing signs of running hot had a coil over it that was different from the rest. If you compare the design with the rest, you can see that the OEM ones were designed to dissipate some of the heat while the aftermarket one was isolating the heat. It wasn't the right coil.
Love the channel dude, haven’t found any channel that’s specific for the b7 2.0 until I found you and you do a lot of stuff the I’d like to do for my car, keep it up 👍
I had an Audi A4 1.8T with 275,000 miles before my Brother purchased for his kids. Always ran synthetic M1 0w-40W and changed every 5-6k. In addition, I did not use low grade octane fuel. Always ran 93. Car ran great and my Brother sold after his kids used it. I now have two Audi A6's. One is an 05 3.2 with 240,000 miles and valve assembly looks a lot better than on this car, (when I replaced gaskets about 12K miles ago). Never did I let gap or plug wear like this either.
I have to be honest, I didn't do an compression test when I use Liqui Moly Engine Flush on my 2015 VW 1.8 Gen 3 Jetta. But I will admit I it worked perfect for my car because it was burning a ridicule amount of oil monthly were people was saying that's normal for VW/Audi. I've owned multiply cars from both companies, hehe. But this engine flush cured that problem immediately. Their Jectron Gasoline Fuel Injection Cleaner, I'm using now to help fix cold misfires seems to be working also, only been a week but I've had no more misfiring. Changing fuel filter within a couple weeks then Fuel System Cleaner to finish the job... So this flush achieved my needs, just my 2 cents...
Why not dump the old oil and stick in fresh oil with the Liqui moli? Then strain and check colour. I did that twice, and although it didn't solve the compression issue, the colour of the oil was night and day. What I did after I will probably get mullered for. But videos will be up in the next week
@@ferrumignis they were reasonable for a car with 240,000 km on it. Mind you i've done a service every 10,000 km since i bought the car at 50,000km. They have more of a sheen on them if i was to say what the noticeable difference way.
I also used this product and a bunch of others. I used to to try and "clean the rings" to get better oil consumption but what ends up happening is it cleans the carbon around the rings which all them to move a bit better (carbon gets in between the piston rings and piston) and that actually reduces your compression and increases oil consumption. Your spark plugs look like they are burning a bit of oil anyway. I have the video of my tests on my channel.
I'll add my experience. 2009 Audi A4. 105K miles, pistons replaced at 65K, cylinder head work from timing chain issue at 99k. I have never missed an oil change and many were even done at much less than the recommended 10K. I drained the oil with 3,000 (Motul X-clean) on it and put in fresh mobil 1 euro and liqui Moly's engine flush. Idled for 15 minutes and drained. There was no difference between the new and old oils even with light behind it. I put samples in small 8 oz containers to compare. Only thing I noticed in the containers is the one with flush ran down the sides much quicker. My wife, who knows nothing about cars or what I did came back and said "whatever you did, it runs better" I've worked on engines for over 40 years and I've never "flushed" a crankcase. Not sure why a flush would make it run better, my only guess is it freed up the turbo a bit. In anycase, I'm a believer now and I have stuff on order to flush my '13 S6, 100K miles. Any Audi fan should know the early 4.0 TFSi has an issue with the turbo oil inlet screen gumming up. I'll probably change my oil change to 7,500k, It's cheap insurance.
Thanks for the added perspective. In hindsight, I think I and most other people make the incorrect assumption that you can/should *see* a significant difference in the composition of the oil, or it's viscosity by swirling it on the edge of something. My *guess* is that with the right equipment (any chemists out there?) the flushed sample would contain higher concentrations of X, Y and Z that would prove contaminants were removed but for the average Joe, the wife's testimonial of "it runs better" is one of the closest indications that improvements were had.
@@FigureItAudi I think I may have lacked clarity, my apologies. When I say there was no difference, I mean the new flushed oil looked every bit as dirty and opaque at 15 minutes as the 3,000 mile used oil. It was effing NASTY in only 15 minutes of Idling. Almost diesel oil bad. As for viscosity, the flush is very thin and it thins the oil. I definatly would not want to drive on the thinned oil although some do. I'm going to do this on my S6. It has a drain plug on the oil filter housing (which makes collecting a breeze and takes 8.8 quarts. I will drain old, reserve a specimen. Put in new and idle a minute and take a specimen, add flush and take a specimen at 15 minutes. This will tell exactly how much is "flushed" out. Considering an oil test on used and flushed oils. My wife already hates what I spend on the car, LOL. BTW, what do you use to edit your videos with? I may make one.
Gotcha, I didn't catch that you flushed with fresh oil; that is impressive (in a bad way), then. I use Adobe Premier Pro and After Effects in my more recent videos.
@Hitman Could be, but she's never said anything before after any amount of work done to her car, except for the replacement of the bent valves. I've just finished the third of my families 3 cars. Not sure it made any real difference but it did get a lot of crap out of there.
@Hitman It's already had 3 full DSG services. Last one was about 3k ago. is the bridge seal inside the transmission or outside, I've never heard of it. I never skimp on the maint. Infact the last one was 3 ki miles ago and they replace ALL the fluids except for rear diff. It took a special tool he didn't have Thank you.
Pretty confounding to me how you would on the one hand do a pretty thorough comparison, but then mix it up with mods that can of course have an impact on the measurements?!
@@802Garage He replaced coils, which have more effect than cleaning a clean engine. Also that carbon build up in nothing. Its a combustion engine and they are not shiny and new inside. If he cleaned that up, it would be the same after one drive.
@@Stanjara what are you talking about??? Audi and vw engines all use coil packs and have done so for quite a while now.... are you talking about the spark plug gap because it doesn't show him pregapping the plugs?? That statement you made, made absolutely no sense, "replaced spark plugs with coils"???? It's not like he did a wire to coil pack swap upgrade...
@@Stanjara and if your cylinder walls aren't clean, you have some VERY WORN oil rings and should either engine swap or rebuild your engine. Even when I did the head rebuild on my 2.5l 5 cylinder from my 2008 rabbit which had 177k on it, the honing was still visible on the cylinder walls... but walls were not dirty, only piston faces, valves, valve seats and combustion chamber where discolored, which was super easy to clean and respec to make sure nothing was warped or pittied or scorched
I'm going to use this on an engine that has been started many times, run for a minute and then shut off again. The oil was all milky from the condensation and i have cleaned out the oilsump that had a layer of grey milky oil on the bottom , the head looks really clean though. I'm doing a flush as soon as i've done some miles in this car again, have to break in a new cam first.
My 2011 MINI S used to burn about quart of oil after every 2nd refuel (850-900 miles) and since I switched to Liqui Moly oil / additive it completely stopped burning oil. I used to use Mobil 1. I’m a big fan of L.M. products.
@@juanifico I use Molygen motor oil and Anti Friction Engine Treatment. My engine also made slight noises and with this switch in products it’s incredibly quiet and smooth.
Just change your oil regularly. Modern oils already have detergents. That is why you change the oil as the oil itself does not actually wear out but it does get contaminants. Long ago Valvoline made detergent free oil. That caused the engine to gum up.
I would attribute the lower dry compression test pressures after the engine flush to the possibility that some carbon chunks were removed from the piston lands, thus increasing the combustion chamber volume and reducing the effective compression ratio. A greater effect, I postulate, is the freeing up of a stuck oil control ring on cylinder #4 that will allow it to seal better.
It probably freed up a piston compression ring by clearing some deposits there, allowing it to raise the compression. That is an area that nothing else can get to in an engine, so sounds worthwhile.
1) You didn't crank the engine long enough on the first compression test you showed. This put a bit of doubt into the other results. 2) That is not carbon on the cylinder walls, it's the shiny cylinder walls showing a reflection of the carbon on the piston crown.
@@chr0nob841 Visually I didn’t see much of a difference little particles but nothing significantly big, on the cleaning side haven’t done thorough check yet. Once I do I’ll let you know, the weather in Mass has been cold lately son haven’t had the chance to work on it.
When I need to clean the top of a piston and the rings I use a a 50/50 mix of PEA fuel injection cleaner and B12 Chemtol 1 shot of each per-cylinder goes into a container for mixing. To that I add 2 teaspoon of TCW3 2 cycle oil per cylinder and mix. I put one shot of this mixture into each cylinder cold and turn crank by hand first thing in the morning. I repeat this in the evening. I cover the spark plug holes with a rag over night. The next day I again turn the crank over by hand and check to make sure no significant fluid is on piston tops. I put the plugs back in and start engine. I let it run until engine is up to operating temp and do an oil change. Normally leading up to this I would have already done a tank or two of fuel injection cleaner. I do this about once every 64K miles. I never leave spark plugs even Iridium in for 120K miles.
Great video! I did the same but switched over to liqui moly for the engine oil as well and got great results. No more tapping or oil consumption! Working on an Audi A6 Avant and an A4 2.0T on my channel currently.
I do the same, I flush the engine with regular FS oil, and then put in Amsoil. Lasts much longer. Modern engines can retain 10-20% old oil which fools most DIY YT jocks. They think the dirty oil is actually result of the solvent when in fact is just the old oil mixed with new.
The idd result might be : 1. cylinder 4 had a lot of build up so compression was down - cleaned up and back to norm. 2. The flush also flushes the lubes so right after the test it may not have been lubricated enough - add oil and run for awhile at lowest rpm possible to go back to normal
Great video. I'd like to suggest if you could do a video of using CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner and show before & after videos of the insides of the combustion chambers with your bore scope.
I did use this product i did not extensive testing like you did I did it on 2 cars, A Prius 2012 (82k Miles/ 132k KM), and a 2011 X3 BMW 2.0L diesel (95k Miles/153k KM), noticed more responds on gas, more smooth this is for both cars, might be I got back compression. I used Liqui Moly oil for both cars 0w-20 Prius and 5w-30 BMW, with Liqui Moly Ceratec (i love this engines make less noise) and Liqui Moly Oil Stop Leak, because there are some seepage on both cars. The way I did it I feel kinda stupid not flushing it 2 times, here is what i did. Drove cars for 30min to heat up oil, Drained 500ML from both oil pans, put in plug while hot oil kept running out, kinda messy I should get a dip stick suction device for this.... Added flush, Ran both car for 15 min, drained old oil and proceeded with a regular oil change, new oil, new filter, and the Ceratec and Oil Stop Leak. However I see after I did this many people buy a second filter and a cheap oil run it again for 10-15min then add the good oil, new filter and the additives after, dang it. Well maybe next year/next oil change. Time used was about 1 hour 30 min for Prius, and 2 hours for the BMW, to give you sorta how long it takes. Good luck and i recommend this.
Probably it won’t clean an engine like in the promo, but for sure your engine was clean before, so there were no deposits to be removed. Regarding the low compression-could be an improvement because maybe the engine flush managed to unstick one or more piston rings from their groove. Maybe.
Remove 1 quart of oil and replace it with diesel. Let it run for 15 minutes and you will notice a major change in all the carbon buildup areas and your compression. You will probably need to do a minimum of three or changes to get all the junk out
I would be curious to see a long term test, use the product at the interval suggested over the period of weeks or maybe even months, I think we would get a better idea that way. Thank you for the good work on this video though!
Others have changed the oil filters in between and they did 3 oil changes to show the difference between the oil in between the changes, each time the oil got better until it was like new , residue is why they changed the oil and filters each time .
I think that #4 plug was leaking and the new plug recovered your comp reading. The white deposits showed that plug was running too hot, which may have been a result of the leak. Also the original stick coil may have been damaged by the heat and was replaced without fixing the leak. Did it previously gave a single knock on a warm start? Sometimes they do and although harmless it tells you that something is off.
I agree with Sky Dive , you've changed spark plugs and coil packs , it also seems the like somebody change 3 coils and never changed the 4th , now that You've changed all 4 you have a nice low tone in your exhaust , also spark plug gaps on turbo cars make a difference, over all I don't think Liqui Moly made a big difference.
& such as life, the problems get smaller & smaller as 1 approaches the core, mABEeeee.. that spRk plug 4, was jst a tad lUs.. (mNE a tIm Iv had problMs that mNE a mech. thought was this that or thE other.. & it Ndd(ended) up just being 1 pipsQEk sIzd lUs scrU) 👋😒
Well, it works on the area that's vital for the performance. Certainly the engine has some significant buildup on the piston ring. On the 3 cylinders, the buildups are aligned with the piston ring, so it improves the sealing. I think that explains the compression changes.
Thank you for doing this kind of tests. Great content. I've tried motul engine Flush cause i couldn't find the liqui moly for volkswagens. But i am pretty sure engine noise has been reduced, specially on idle. Thanks again, keep up.
It think it's hard to compare both test samples when the cups are so large, that even with the presumably "cleaner" oil there's no light penetrating the oil. Maybe a test tube or another thinner cup would've led to different results. Plus your engine was pretty clean from the start. I mean the transformation shown in the commercial is certainly unrealistic, but maybe an engine with a bit of oil sludge here and there would've experienced some "real" cleaning effect.
Thanks for the test ! But if you use already dark oil for the flush its difficult to see change in color. I was surpised abouth the compression results. Thanks again !
I mean. You put engine flush in a perfectly fine engine apart from the excess carbon on the pistons, no wonder there is no significant effect. Do the same to a 100k+ mile 1.8T thats sludged up to the brim and watch the magic.
Thanks to synthetic oils, sludge is a thing of the past, no?? My 1999, 240,000 mile Jeep 4.0L's valve train looked like new when I did the valve cover gasket around 220,000. 5W-40 synthetic every 6,000 miles.
Amazing work man!!! I had to subscribe at least to show my appreciation of your welcomed knowledge sharing. Im going to say I'll have to buy this and try on my 2013 335i bmw!
I know Liqui Moly works. My Silverado was having sludge issues and causing low oil pressure. After using Liqui Moly my oil pressure went way up to normal. I’ll use it about every other oil change.
That increase in compression may have been because it was standing still for 2 years and performance progressed because of the running of the engine alone.
i used to use that engine flush and well tbh i think it contributed to my head gasket going on my last car as tbh i really looked after it and cant understand why my head gasket went on it and 130k miles on a vw group 1.9tdi engine
my motorcycle had 1 cylinder at only 96psi. the service limit was 109psi. the other cylinders were 160psi, 155psi, 145psi. after running an engine flush through the engine the low cylinder was up to 144psi. the rest were now 162, 160psi, 155psi. so gummed up rings were the problem. i ran the engine for 600 miles and retested. the low cylinder was now up to 155psi(rings must have reseated) the other cylinders stayed te same.
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](/img/n.gif)
You were supposed to flush the system of the original oil before adding the engine flush. Also they recommend you drive the car for 1-2 hours before draining
You're not the first person to think and share this and typically I don't humor posts like yours but for the sake of data integrity, let's see what you can offer to backup why what you're describing is the correct process and that "they" (since you're claiming Liqui Moly themselves are doing this recommendation) are the source info. Because: No.
A) It says the process right on the can. Add to old oil, idle for 10 mins, drain, replace with fresh oil and filter
B) It says it identical process on their info sheet, directly from the LM website, and it's even on their updated Engine Flush Plus product (in other words, if they felt the process needed to change, they could have updated it when that product was released, but they didn't). And here's that document: pim.liqui-moly.de/pdf/en_GB/liqui/16/P003601
What's recommended vs. what you *could* do are entirely different things. I'll pin this post so if you can find some verified, contradictory evidence from LM on the process, you can bathe in all the glory.
@@FigureItAudi Gotta love how people will just parrot everything they read or heard somewhere as facts without having even put in the slightest effort to fact-check.
Liquid Moly has a (german) forum specifically to answer your questions and recommendations and there they clearly don´t recommend driving the car.
They specifically wrote to not drive at all, not even onto a ramp or a lift! 👍
@@Schmitzelhaus This liquid is not an oil. This is just for the cleaning purpose and not for daily use, so simple.
Sorry, NOWHERE on the Liqui Moly Pro Line Engine Flush can does it state "Drive the engine for 1-2 hours".
What it does say is -
" 500 ml is sufficient for up to 5 l of oil. Add to motor oil at operating temperature before an oil change. After adding the product, allow the engine to idle for 10 - 15 minutes depending on the degree of contamination. Then change the oil and the filter".
You are giving out false information that could result in someone damaging their engine on the basis of your misinformation.
If you don't know the facts then please don't offer any advice.
Its been a while since I ran this flush but I'm pretty sure in big letters it says to NOT drive under any circumstance
Man videos like this is what youtube should be about, instead of clickbait ramble videos. It's really refreshing to see videos like this. Great job dude !
subed before ever watching a vid just reading your comment....
Also, no annoying background music.
Sir, please address him by his proper name:
Sir Audi Awesome Dude
The Oil Filter will trap deposits removed by Liquid Moly engine Flush. The filter paper before and after simple shows you have a working oil filter. Any particles you see in the filter paper are just deposits that haven't been filtered out yet in the cycle.
Good point.
He should've cut open both oil filters.
@meateater4life551 A lot of people that are just getting in to maintenance may not realise this. I'm guessing that you are watching this because you are already a mechanical genius but have nothing bettr to do.
One thing you want to crank the engine until the compression stops building, if you limit it to 5 cranks only you set your self up for failure especially when comparing to another reading. This is because the piston can be a a different part of it's stroke, theres 4 phases to a complete rotation, and if you start the test a a different part of the phase and stop a 5 you can get a higher lower reading if that piston is on its power stroke or sat exhaust stroke.
@@jerryx2000
he just said his opinion, that it was imperfectly tested(so if he hasn’t tried it, hU knows)👋
good test thO, but 2 big snafUs- cR was already in good shape & not enuf rotations for comp. check(good test thO, much more competent than most stuff on youtube - but those 2 snafUs make it tough to see)✋
@@jerryx2000s someone who does this for a living, I will tell you diesel and transmission fluid do the exact same thing.
Now I would tell you for a fraction of the price, but with inflation these days, that's no longer true.
However, I always took half a liter of 50/50 diesel-transmission fluid mix and it worked like a charm to dissolve sludge.
One thing you should always do is once you run the flush, you should drop the oil pan and check for any debris that may have oozed to the bottom and is now blocking the pick up tube.
why are you typing like a fucking imbecile? are you black? or whats your excuse?@@ezwa9979
Forget the product. Man you are the true you tuber..... no words to say..... hats off..... perfection off the desk.
This is the most thorough review for this type of product I've ever seen. Fantastic work! I just came across this video in my searching of the liqui moly proline flush, was just watching each video as it came up. Started watching this and thought how odd i hadn't heard of this channel, it must be pretty well established to be doing a video of this quality...quick glance down...537 subs?? wtf? I was expecting like 500k?! Liked and subscribed immediately! Really well done on the video structure, audio and video quality too, I'll be sharing it with my car friends.
Came here to watch the review of the engine flush before I use it in my S2000, stayed and watched the whole video because of the quality content!
Wow, xtian., super kind of you to say all this - thank you. I'm just a car guy that wants to know how stuff works and likes to learn :)
@@FigureItAudi you are doing a very good job there ! please keep up with the great topics and video. :) , already subscribed and clicked the notification bell! :)
I can not agree more with you, Xtian. This is really a great video.
Just got my first Audi, used from private other. Wanted to do an initial engine flush, glad I found and subscribed to this channel. Great video
Excellent production values - narrative and speed. Straight to the point no click bait waffle and UA-cam tutorials at there best here - well done - if only they were all like this 😮 👍👍
It lowered the compression on the three cylinders slightly because it broke down some of the gelatinized oil-carbon buildup which, to a point, actually seals the compression chamber more. This is before it gets too bad and starts to become very acidic and etch away at the linings, lowering compression.
Yeah thats true. Thats not a bad thing though since that film is rebuilt in a short time and compression will be up again
@@jerryx2000 recommended
@8:15 OMG. This is the first video/article that I've seen someone state or show the expected cylinder compression pressures for each engine size. I tested my 2008 1.8TFSI engine 6 months ago and got 124psi across all 4 cylinders. I was encouraged by the consistent readings but quite a bit worried they were actually all low and indicative of a problem. Whilst slightly on the low side it's a real comfort knowing they are all still well above the wear limit of 109psi. Thank you for your video.
The lower compression is because the carbon in the good cylinders, 1,2 and 3, actually have formed to the internals, so when removing, expose minute new compression leakage areas. On your number 4 cylinder, you had carbon holding open your exhaust valves from the heat being greater in the back of the cam. Because of that, less engravnedd carbon on your sidewalls but now your exhaust valves seat all the way because the carbon deposits are no longer holding it open. I've learned this because this is a common problem on first and second Gen coyote engines.
Brother should I do an engine flush on my VW Polo 1.2 TDI, 2011 model , 165k kms . Always serviced with VW approved 5w40 505 00/ 505 01 spec oil.
Cylinder 4 piston rings were seized up. Very common issue for Audi
Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed experiment
Awesome results. The flush freed up the rings on cylinder 4. Usually, you need to soak the rings over night with solevant. Plus the engine flush. To get those kind or results on an Audi
The increase in compression on cylinder 4, is likely due to the Ligui Moly removing/cleaning carbon from the rings on that cylinder allowing them to rotate and work properly during the combustion process. Therefore restoring the lost compression.
Or maybe the firsts low measurement was just an outlier, and it's only a coincidence that it's after applying the cleaner where the value is in line with the other cylinders.
If LiquiMoly would have worked that well, how do you explain the lower compression on the other cylinders? Or the lower compression in the wet test on cylinder 1?
Any decent engine oil will keep particles suspended anyways, there's a ton of emulsifiers and additives in the oil. If something is so much baked in that a regular (and on-time) oil change won't dissolve it anymore, a mild cleaner like LiquiMoly enginge flush won't get it loose in 10min either. You'd need a really aggressive cleaner, which you obviously don't want to mix in your oil and then run the engine. And it's very likely taking more time than a couple minutes, unless you can support it with mechanical cleaning, e.g. an ultrasonic bath or just scraping the bulk of carbon deposits off after taking the engine apart.
@@smurface549 Well, Any modern oil has detergent among its additive package, no big news here. However as the oil ages, the levels of detergent get lower and the cleaning property of an engine oil degrades as well as its friction reduction properties, which is why we have to change it. LM Flushing additive is indeed some detergent to restore a higher level and help cleaning the engine. Back in the days you could also use flushing oil that was high in detergent but that kind of products was often too aggressive for engines and would damage certain parts in the process, hence their bad reputation and eventually that kind of products almost disappeared from the market. As a result using such additives for making cleaner oil change is good because it allows the oil to regain its cleaning properties with a little more punch. In this case I can imagine that the cylinder n° 4was running hotter than the rest, probably because of insufficient injection. as a result the oil cooked more in this cylinder and created deposit that eventually prevent the piston ring from moving freely in their grove and thus degraded the compression. But you're right, certain really bad situation will require disassembly and thorough cleaning with other means. I do believe that engine flush used regularly, especially on engines that tend to burn oil (American and European engines mostly) is good and help preventing more expensive maintenance. There is no "miracle product" but generally, Liqui Moly products work quite well for what they've been designed for.
Is it safe to use motor flush not use any others like diesel, transmission fluid, kerosene, cheaper motor flush so many uses.
Is it safe using motor flush not any others. I'm worry about will clogging through oil pump ????????
@@craigbadder4372 absolutely no risk to clog anything with a flushing additive like Liqui Moly. However you cannot drive with it in the oil. It can only be used for 15 to 20min idling only! As the detergent level rises, lubrication also diminishes and it's not meant to be used in an engine that is going partial or full charge. Oil flush additive has to be used with caution but as long as you follow the instructions, it's perfectly safe to use.
In the first reading, all cylinders are low, and the reason is that the engine did not reach operating temperature after that, in the second reading, after the engine reached operating temperature, it seems that all cylinders are equal in pressure. Thank you for this video, wishing you success always
As a former Audi tech for years, those spark plugs are normal for that engine. Nothing out of the ordinary for this engine.
Interesting that you say that. I recently changed plugs on my b7 and 2 of them had the white tip shown on the video but cylinders 3 and 4 were pitch black. What does that translate to?
@@jorgeibanez5694 sounds like a fuel issue. Have you had your injectors cleaned and flow tested?
@@jorgeibanez5694 cylinder 1 and 2 ran too lean and 3 and 4 ran too rich (if its deep black and not shiny/wet black)
residue on the spark plugs is always a sign of how the motor ran THE MOMENT it was shut off
@@Wafflebrah21 I have not had my injectors cleaned/flow tested. I got the car very recently as a “non runner” due to bad starter. There wasn’t any wet residue on the plugs, I pulled them almost immediately after shutting it off. I’ve scanned the codes and found that there was an irregular misfire on cylinder 4. Would injectors be a likely cause of that?
Chris seeing as your a Audi tech would you recommend using this stuff in a folder car? I have a b5.5 passat. Thanks
Enjoyed the video, clear and understandable, good attempt at the scientific method. The carbon on the cylinder walls is just a reflection. they are actually honed to mirror reflection and your seeing the edge of the piston. The varnish will never come off unless you use an industrial solvent and apply pressure or physical contact, such as you might see in a machine shop. Next time, flush the engine with brand new oil, take a sample, then add the Engine Flush. Then take another sample. That is the proper way to do it. Companies that test engine and oil, typically flush engines 3-4 times between runs to remove any residual oil or cross contamination. These modern, DOHC, VVT engines can retain 10-20% of old oil, thus the reason to flush the engine with new oil by changing, running for 15 minutes to complete mix the oils and drain again. This will net you a 99% fresh sump. Then if you see any significant deposits, it is likely the flush or the new oil actually doing its job in cleaning the engine. Another way to evaluate oil cleanliness and see carbon and insoluables in the oil is using radial chromatography. Place two drops of used oil on the center of a blank business card. Let sit and disperse for 6-8 hours. then examine under a back light and you will see any contaminates, carbon, soot, sludge if any. Very easy and cheap. The other option is to have a lab test the oil using optical or pore type partical test methods. The machine, transportation, marine, auto and military use this to evaluate filter performance and oil cleanliness.
Perfect 👌
I hope people take time to read this.
holy crap man you deserve all the views in the world for this!
I've seen another LiquiMoly Engine Flush test showing very similar results. Where compression after the treatment was a bit lower. But one cylinder which tested low before the treatment was a bit higher following treatment. We should remember that temperature is a factor with compression testing. Perhaps a cold compression test, followed by a warm test, of both before and after would be helpful.
100%
You have to control for as many variables as possible.
I’d recommend cold crank testing so you don’t run into a hot plug stripper situation.
Good for a Friday night. Bad for an engine.
I used this product and moved my oil changes to every 5k miles from the 15k that BMW specified that the previous owner did. I noticed a difference in the oil drain color 2 oil changes later. It stopped coming out dark black and now has a slight gold tint to it. I think it takes a few changes to really work. Just my $.02
Was looking for this comment. I just got a BMW 335d and the previous owner was doing the 15k/1 per year oil changes and I want to get the gunk out from that. I'm changing my oil every 5k 😂 they're out their damn minds telling people that's an acceptable change interval
mr mathew, you wouldn’t know if it’s liquid Molly or more frequent oil changes that made oil cleaner thO - 2 improvements at 1c & then one cNt tL which did the improving(unless ofcoOrs the other commentor leaves another coment after a couple oil changes)- wL 5k krispN?we’re w8ng✋
@@krspykreame1what's the update?
I really appreciate these kind of thorough and well put videos
Huge,huge amount of work is done here,exellent job!
Well, with my moms car (1.4 16V Seat Arosa Sport) a couple years ago, it was burning oil at about 1L/1000km, but after flushing with forte motor flush (warm engine, 45 minutes idling with sometimes revving up ,to 1500rpm) it went down to 1L per 6500km. So that was a huge win too! (So it's nice to see you have improvements in the compression test)
That Audi tool to remove coils is very techy! But carbon on cylinder wall was just mirrored. The flush though, didn't do spat...
Im a big fan of liquimoly products. I pair their oil with ceretec,and hydraulic lifter additive. Ive tried EVERY 5w20 oil i coild get my hands on, my temp runs 6 degrees cooler, no more valvetrain noise above the normal, it just all around is amazin. My car is almost to 200k as well. Recently used it in the wifes MDX that has oil consumption problems (3 QUARTS IN 1K MILES) and so far the dip stick is still safe, and the motor is smoother sounding. Tried Royal Purple, Pennzoil Platinum, Mobile 1, redline doesnt seem to make a 5 w 20, and if they did its twice the price. Ill never go back to the yellow,green, or purple again.
I did a Liqui Molly engine flush in my 2008 Lexus IS250 with 141k miles. I want to keep this car running for a while, because I really like it. Anyhow, after doing it, I noticed the car does seem to drive a little bit better. I do notice an improvement. Maybe I will do another engine flush later on down the line. Definitely during oil change, but maybe in another 50k miles or so.
i have an Acura g2 legend and when servicing the valvetrain of my car there was a LOT of oil buildup (prev owner was lazy on maintenance), decided to give this a try, added a bottle and ran it for about a week and a half then changed the oil and filter, repeated the process once more and changed the oil. after using this product twice in the span of a few weeks i took my valve covers off to check if it did anything and 90% of the oil buildup/carbon residue was gone and the valvetrain looked new. I 100% stand by this product, from now on im planning on throwing a bottle of this aprox 30 miles/1hr before i change my oil. if anyone knows about honda's c32a1 engines they have a habit of the hydraulic rockers making noise after a while. im not sure if this product cleaned out the buildup inside the rockers but they no longer make as much rattle as they did prior to using the engine flush
Fantastic video, almost to the level of Project Farm. However couple of big errors IMO, as others have mentioned.
1. Just crank until compression stops rising, might be 5,6,7...
2. You have a filter in the loop, so obviously where would we expect the majority of any gunk to have been deposited?
Aside those peanut gallery snarks, very good and useful to see that it didn't appear to do much cleaning of carbon at all.
Subbed.
If I may add something. I have been using LM Engine Flush Pro for at least 10yrs on various engines. If the engine never been flushed you have to do at least 3 flushes with fresh oil to really get rid of all the gunk. Also not 10 minutes but 30 minutes on idle. For example, in the 1.5dci Renault/Nissan engine with 15W40 inside (Yeah I know death for that engine), it took 5 flushes and 6 oil changes to keep oil clean after the oil change and 30m warmup. After this procedure engine stopped smoking blue, became quieter, and ran stronger.
In my humble opinion: If you want to really clean your engine, buy a couple of LM Engine Flushes and enough cheapest oil you can buy for a couple of changes. After the last flush, change oil for the last time to the cheap oil and run it for 30m then change it (should come out quite clean) to some very good engine oil. Job is done
I use 15w40 in my 1.9dci renault. What could be the problem?
This was awesome. Well done man.
Appreciate it. I checked out your videos and it looks like we've got a similar spirit of content - from one VAG enthusiast to another: well done, friend.
These types of additives (I prefer BG products) really shine after 3-4-5 full engine oil changes. We’ve been putting full synthetic 5w30 and the BG “MOA” oil additive in a 2000 Camry V6 for about 6 oil changes now. The old 5k-mile oil literally comes out looking brand new at this point. The first 2-3 oil changes were DARK, the oil filter was changed out twice as often as the oil was to catch anything that was dislodged. Additive from reputable brands definitely work. (BG, LiquMoly) But you have to repeatedly use them with every oil change to actually see results. When we did the valve cover gaskets on that same Camry V6 the inside of the cylinder heads were bright and clean. No coking or any deposits. One oil change and running for 10 minutes isn’t going to do anything except clean your cylinder walls a bit. Which is exactly what you experienced. Use BG’s MOA products and you’ll see crazy results long term.
Where do you purchase your BG products from?
@@beehauss My local O’Reilly has all their stuff. The MOA, RF7, 44K, their diesel fuel treatment, etc,
I like BG products, but I wouldn’t use oil additives on my own car. A solid properly rated oil has all the additives you need
Yeah, the time is the most important thing by the cleaning.
You sir shall be saved and enter the gates of automotive heaven.
You seem like a guy who takes care of his car. The engine tarnish is nothing of the ordinary. It has no sludge, so i doubt the flush would do much for that. In my car, royal purple just changed the tarnish color to zinc yellow. The plugs clearly had issues. Thorough video man!
Great job. Very detailed and honest. Rare to see expert with honest review in UA-cam
The best Liqui Moly advertising ever!!! No pun intended
I used BG oil flush on an old MR2, and got 25% compression improvements overall, same plugs etc, just fresh oil. The BG product helps free up the piston rings and increases the compression, smells lovely as well. Having seen the results myself, I always use BG oil flush on every service, totally rate it.
are you refering to bg109 or bg epr or the super expensive $300 kit they sell?
How can you prove the very fact that you had an oil change had effect to the engine cleanness?
I alternately use this and Amsoil engine flush at every oil change . The reason I think my oil doesn't come out black or dark . It comes out a golden color that I can see through as it drains . Changing oil every 5000 miles , using either Pennzoil Platinum 0W16 / Amsoil OE 0W16 and always a Amsoil filter .
Engine temp has a lot of influence on compression results. Retest cold and hot ;)
@John Does as i know it is always good to check both at hot and cold when you do comp tests.
@@datsuntoyy tf?
Audi manual says to test warm
@@nuvisionprinting What is the point in doing a cold test?
Funny I did it in my Audi and change the oil from Castrol to Motul specific and surprise no more rattling at cold start. Probably cleaned make some stuck valves or the tensioner stuck. It did something for sure.
If you want all that carbon deposit cleaned from top of the pistons you should use Redline SI1 Fuel System Cleaner. When I used the product on my MK4 Golf It cleaned the pistons to a point where I was able to see the eccentric lines on top of the pistons.
yes I think Redline is the best
Great wideo. Try this in a Diesel engine with sludge build up, then you will see what this product is capable of. Also you should have changed the oil filter and cut it open, both for the base test and after flush. Subbed!
This is a direct injection engine which builds sludge in the intake and on piston heads
Someone prob already commented but the piston wall is a reflection of the piston top. Great video!
The evened out dry numbers are a great result. Glad I used this stuff before my last oil change. The decreased wet number for cyl#1 could've just been a fluke, oil not making its way to the rings or something.
More likely from not letting the compression reading stabilise. Can see stopping too early in the vid.
@@RealHairyPottyI think it's more to do with oil being far less viscous, cretaes more of a seal around the oil rings when the oil is thicker leading to higher compression, simply leaving the oil flush to stagnate on the sides of the cylinder walls induces lower overall compression as it is more volatile, a dommon trend I see is oil in oil flush is quite sloppy and water like, whereas oil without flush is very sludgy and thick, I work in a waste management facility and can tell when they oil we are recycling has had oil flush put through it! :)
my only explanation is the bad cylinder had the oil rings cleaned, but lower overall compression due to the thin oil, the block should have been thoroughly rinsed with clean oil and a clean filter, ran for atleast 10 minutes with fresh oil then the sump oil and oil filter drained, new oil put in the filter and engine then the cylinders tested. Atleast this is my procedure anyways after having used oil flush on poorly performing engines.
The spark plug that was showing signs of running hot had a coil over it that was different from the rest. If you compare the design with the rest, you can see that the OEM ones were designed to dissipate some of the heat while the aftermarket one was isolating the heat. It wasn't the right coil.
CRAP☹️, I just bought crakerjack box prize quality level coils from my nXdOr nAbr😒
This is gold! Why didn't i find it earlier.
Love the channel dude, haven’t found any channel that’s specific for the b7 2.0 until I found you and you do a lot of stuff the I’d like to do for my car, keep it up 👍
Francis Imperio I can imagine why you want to watch this videos. The 2.0 FSI is so flawed...
B7s are good cars if you can take care of it yourself
I had an Audi A4 1.8T with 275,000 miles before my Brother purchased for his kids. Always ran synthetic M1 0w-40W and changed every 5-6k. In addition, I did not use low grade octane fuel. Always ran 93. Car ran great and my Brother sold after his kids used it. I now have two Audi A6's. One is an 05 3.2 with 240,000 miles and valve assembly looks a lot better than on this car, (when I replaced gaskets about 12K miles ago). Never did I let gap or plug wear like this either.
I have to be honest, I didn't do an compression test when I use Liqui Moly Engine Flush on my 2015 VW 1.8 Gen 3 Jetta. But I will admit I it worked perfect for my car because it was burning a ridicule amount of oil monthly were people was saying that's normal for VW/Audi. I've owned multiply cars from both companies, hehe. But this engine flush cured that problem immediately. Their Jectron Gasoline Fuel Injection Cleaner, I'm using now to help fix cold misfires seems to be working also, only been a week but I've had no more misfiring. Changing fuel filter within a couple weeks then Fuel System Cleaner to finish the job...
So this flush achieved my needs, just my 2 cents...
Why not dump the old oil and stick in fresh oil with the Liqui moli? Then strain and check colour. I did that twice, and although it didn't solve the compression issue, the colour of the oil was night and day. What I did after I will probably get mullered for. But videos will be up in the next week
€€€
The cylinder walls are showing a reflection of the surface of the piston
I've flushed my car with this and i checked the cams by taking the valve cover off and it wasn't far off from this.
And when you checked the cams before you flushed it, what did they look like?
@@ferrumignis they were reasonable for a car with 240,000 km on it. Mind you i've done a service every 10,000 km since i bought the car at 50,000km.
They have more of a sheen on them if i was to say what the noticeable difference way.
Amazing work, this is the kind of tests one would like to see on manufacturers site.... Excellent...
I also used this product and a bunch of others. I used to to try and "clean the rings" to get better oil consumption but what ends up happening is it cleans the carbon around the rings which all them to move a bit better (carbon gets in between the piston rings and piston) and that actually reduces your compression and increases oil consumption. Your spark plugs look like they are burning a bit of oil anyway. I have the video of my tests on my channel.
it was a little confusing to get your conclusion. Was it that you think the cleaner does help or that it does not?
@@jamesmedina2062 it did not help.
@@buildanddrive right on. Thanks for the answer. I have found similar poor results with older engines. Fresh oil is usually your best bet.
I'll add my experience. 2009 Audi A4. 105K miles, pistons replaced at 65K, cylinder head work from timing chain issue at 99k. I have never missed an oil change and many were even done at much less than the recommended 10K. I drained the oil with 3,000 (Motul X-clean) on it and put in fresh mobil 1 euro and liqui Moly's engine flush. Idled for 15 minutes and drained. There was no difference between the new and old oils even with light behind it. I put samples in small 8 oz containers to compare. Only thing I noticed in the containers is the one with flush ran down the sides much quicker.
My wife, who knows nothing about cars or what I did came back and said "whatever you did, it runs better" I've worked on engines for over 40 years and I've never "flushed" a crankcase. Not sure why a flush would make it run better, my only guess is it freed up the turbo a bit. In anycase, I'm a believer now and I have stuff on order to flush my '13 S6, 100K miles. Any Audi fan should know the early 4.0 TFSi has an issue with the turbo oil inlet screen gumming up. I'll probably change my oil change to 7,500k, It's cheap insurance.
Thanks for the added perspective. In hindsight, I think I and most other people make the incorrect assumption that you can/should *see* a significant difference in the composition of the oil, or it's viscosity by swirling it on the edge of something. My *guess* is that with the right equipment (any chemists out there?) the flushed sample would contain higher concentrations of X, Y and Z that would prove contaminants were removed but for the average Joe, the wife's testimonial of "it runs better" is one of the closest indications that improvements were had.
@@FigureItAudi I think I may have lacked clarity, my apologies. When I say there was no difference, I mean the new flushed oil looked every bit as dirty and opaque at 15 minutes as the 3,000 mile used oil. It was effing NASTY in only 15 minutes of Idling. Almost diesel oil bad. As for viscosity, the flush is very thin and it thins the oil. I definatly would not want to drive on the thinned oil although some do.
I'm going to do this on my S6. It has a drain plug on the oil filter housing (which makes collecting a breeze and takes 8.8 quarts. I will drain old, reserve a specimen. Put in new and idle a minute and take a specimen, add flush and take a specimen at 15 minutes. This will tell exactly how much is "flushed" out. Considering an oil test on used and flushed oils. My wife already hates what I spend on the car, LOL.
BTW, what do you use to edit your videos with? I may make one.
Gotcha, I didn't catch that you flushed with fresh oil; that is impressive (in a bad way), then. I use Adobe Premier Pro and After Effects in my more recent videos.
@Hitman Could be, but she's never said anything before after any amount of work done to her car, except for the replacement of the bent valves. I've just finished the third of my families 3 cars. Not sure it made any real difference but it did get a lot of crap out of there.
@Hitman It's already had 3 full DSG services. Last one was about 3k ago. is the bridge seal inside the transmission or outside, I've never heard of it. I never skimp on the maint. Infact the last one was 3 ki miles ago and they replace ALL the fluids except for rear diff. It took a special tool he didn't have Thank you.
Pretty confounding to me how you would on the one hand do a pretty thorough comparison, but then mix it up with mods that can of course have an impact on the measurements?!
How would they affect the measurements?
@@802Garage He replaced coils, which have more effect than cleaning a clean engine.
Also that carbon build up in nothing. Its a combustion engine and they are not shiny and new inside. If he cleaned that up, it would be the same after one drive.
@@Stanjara what are you talking about??? Audi and vw engines all use coil packs and have done so for quite a while now.... are you talking about the spark plug gap because it doesn't show him pregapping the plugs?? That statement you made, made absolutely no sense, "replaced spark plugs with coils"???? It's not like he did a wire to coil pack swap upgrade...
@@Stanjara and if your cylinder walls aren't clean, you have some VERY WORN oil rings and should either engine swap or rebuild your engine. Even when I did the head rebuild on my 2.5l 5 cylinder from my 2008 rabbit which had 177k on it, the honing was still visible on the cylinder walls... but walls were not dirty, only piston faces, valves, valve seats and combustion chamber where discolored, which was super easy to clean and respec to make sure nothing was warped or pittied or scorched
@@erikdefries4956 I was wrong, I meant he replaced the coils.
You should use cheap oil to flush the system after using liquimoly engineflush and then fill in with good oil.
The liqui moly flush evaporates
@@LoopBooostHow do you know? I was wondering if it did that. Makes sense. I couldn't find any info about it
I'm going to use this on an engine that has been started many times, run for a minute and then shut off again. The oil was all milky from the condensation and i have cleaned out the oilsump that had a layer of grey milky oil on the bottom , the head looks really clean though. I'm doing a flush as soon as i've done some miles in this car again, have to break in a new cam first.
My 2011 MINI S used to burn about quart of oil after every 2nd refuel (850-900 miles) and since I switched to Liqui Moly oil / additive it completely stopped burning oil. I used to use Mobil 1. I’m a big fan of L.M. products.
which specific liquid moly product?
@@juanifico I use Molygen motor oil and Anti Friction Engine Treatment. My engine also made slight noises and with this switch in products it’s incredibly quiet and smooth.
@@steezymiyagi do you think the engine oil is necessary, too?
@@juanifico So I substituted Mobil 1 motor oil with Liquid Moly
Amazing thorough review. Great work
Just change your oil regularly. Modern oils already have detergents. That is why you change the oil as the oil itself does not actually wear out but it does get contaminants. Long ago Valvoline made detergent free oil. That caused the engine to gum up.
It's called combustion. No matter how many times you refresh the oil, there will always be deposits
supposedly Valvoline" has a Newer oil out W new stuff to help clean it while ur driving? pretty sure it's real.
I would attribute the lower dry compression test pressures after the engine flush to the possibility that some carbon chunks were removed from the piston lands, thus increasing the combustion chamber volume and reducing the effective compression ratio. A greater effect, I postulate, is the freeing up of a stuck oil control ring on cylinder #4 that will allow it to seal better.
Great video... I'm sure, it took a lot of time for such a good review. Perfect!
It probably freed up a piston compression ring by clearing some deposits there, allowing it to raise the compression. That is an area that nothing else can get to in an engine, so sounds worthwhile.
Did it on my dad’s Tiguan plus some Italian tuning fixed the cold start misfire due to carbon buildup.
1) You didn't crank the engine long enough on the first compression test you showed. This put a bit of doubt into the other results.
2) That is not carbon on the cylinder walls, it's the shiny cylinder walls showing a reflection of the carbon on the piston crown.
I think this is correct - you can see reflected carbon pattern matches up
Excellent video my fellow Albertan!
Awesome quality video mate, thanks.
That was a very good video! Thank you for posting. Now I gotta go watch the create video!
Great video by the way, I recently purchased the Liqui Moly Engine Flush to see how it works on my A4.
how did it go?
@@chr0nob841 Visually I didn’t see much of a difference little particles but nothing significantly big, on the cleaning side haven’t done thorough check yet. Once I do I’ll let you know, the weather in Mass has been cold lately son haven’t had the chance to work on it.
When I need to clean the top of a piston and the rings I use a a 50/50 mix of PEA fuel injection cleaner and B12 Chemtol 1 shot of each per-cylinder goes into a container for mixing. To that I add 2 teaspoon of TCW3 2 cycle oil per cylinder and mix. I put one shot of this mixture into each cylinder cold and turn crank by hand first thing in the morning. I repeat this in the evening. I cover the spark plug holes with a rag over night. The next day I again turn the crank over by hand and check to make sure no significant fluid is on piston tops. I put the plugs back in and start engine. I let it run until engine is up to operating temp and do an oil change. Normally leading up to this I would have already done a tank or two of fuel injection cleaner. I do this about once every 64K miles. I never leave spark plugs even Iridium in for 120K miles.
Great video! I did the same but switched over to liqui moly for the engine oil as well and got great results. No more tapping or oil consumption! Working on an Audi A6 Avant and an A4 2.0T on my channel currently.
which oil do you run?
I personally use amsoil flush with a fresh oil change with cheap oil then change and fill with amsoil oil
I do the same, I flush the engine with regular FS oil, and then put in Amsoil. Lasts much longer. Modern engines can retain 10-20% old oil which fools most DIY YT jocks. They think the dirty oil is actually result of the solvent when in fact is just the old oil mixed with new.
The idd result might be : 1. cylinder 4 had a lot of build up so compression was down - cleaned up and back to norm. 2. The flush also flushes the lubes so right after the test it may not have been lubricated enough - add oil and run for awhile at lowest rpm possible to go back to normal
Great video. I'd like to suggest if you could do a video of using CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner and show before & after videos of the insides of the combustion chambers with your bore scope.
I did use this product i did not extensive testing like you did
I did it on 2 cars, A Prius 2012 (82k Miles/ 132k KM), and a 2011 X3 BMW 2.0L diesel (95k Miles/153k KM), noticed more responds on gas, more smooth this is for both cars, might be I got back compression.
I used Liqui Moly oil for both cars 0w-20 Prius and 5w-30 BMW, with Liqui Moly Ceratec (i love this engines make less noise) and Liqui Moly Oil Stop Leak, because there are some seepage on both cars.
The way I did it I feel kinda stupid not flushing it 2 times, here is what i did.
Drove cars for 30min to heat up oil, Drained 500ML from both oil pans, put in plug while hot oil kept running out, kinda messy I should get a dip stick suction device for this....
Added flush, Ran both car for 15 min, drained old oil and proceeded with a regular oil change, new oil, new filter, and the Ceratec and Oil Stop Leak.
However I see after I did this many people buy a second filter and a cheap oil run it again for 10-15min then add the good oil, new filter and the additives after, dang it. Well maybe next year/next oil change.
Time used was about 1 hour 30 min for Prius, and 2 hours for the BMW, to give you sorta how long it takes. Good luck and i recommend this.
That was a brilliant test!
Give this guy a medal
Probably it won’t clean an engine like in the promo, but for sure your engine was clean before, so there were no deposits to be removed. Regarding the low compression-could be an improvement because maybe the engine flush managed to unstick one or more piston rings from their groove. Maybe.
Best 20min of my life thank u
Remove 1 quart of oil and replace it with diesel. Let it run for 15 minutes and you will notice a major change in all the carbon buildup areas and your compression. You will probably need to do a minimum of three or changes to get all the junk out
Diesel you say right?
Used liquimolly diesel surge on a audi absolutely amazing stuff mpg shot up less smoke and injectors were filthy very happy with their stuff
@Tommy Salami it's for diesel only runs straight from the can bypass the fuel filter, my car was really clogged up
Good job, my friend. Thank you very much for all
I would be curious to see a long term test, use the product at the interval suggested over the period of weeks or maybe even months, I think we would get a better idea that way. Thank you for the good work on this video though!
Others have changed the oil filters in between and they did 3 oil changes to show the difference between the oil in between the changes, each time the oil got better until it was like new , residue is why they changed the oil and filters each time .
I think that #4 plug was leaking and the new plug recovered your comp reading. The white deposits showed that plug was running too hot, which may have been a result of the leak. Also the original stick coil may have been damaged by the heat and was replaced without fixing the leak. Did it previously gave a single knock on a warm start? Sometimes they do and although harmless it tells you that something is off.
I agree with Sky Dive , you've changed spark plugs and coil packs , it also seems the like somebody change 3 coils and never changed the 4th , now that You've changed all 4 you have a nice low tone in your exhaust , also spark plug gaps on turbo cars make a difference, over all I don't think Liqui Moly made a big difference.
& such as life, the problems get smaller & smaller as 1 approaches the core, mABEeeee.. that spRk plug 4, was jst a tad lUs.. (mNE a tIm Iv had problMs that mNE a mech. thought was this that or thE other.. & it Ndd(ended) up just being 1 pipsQEk sIzd lUs scrU) 👋😒
Can I suggest the use of a small mechanical centrifuge with glass tubes might be a better way to see impurities
Well, it works on the area that's vital for the performance. Certainly the engine has some significant buildup on the piston ring. On the 3 cylinders, the buildups are aligned with the piston ring, so it improves the sealing. I think that explains the compression changes.
the dirt should be on the oil filter, so it's not abnormal for the oil to be "the same" before and after using Liqui Moly
The correct way is to change the oil twice. The first oil change after the flush will be contaminated too with the detergents from the Engine Flush.
Thank you for doing this kind of tests. Great content. I've tried motul engine Flush cause i couldn't find the liqui moly for volkswagens. But i am pretty sure engine noise has been reduced, specially on idle.
Thanks again, keep up.
Not sure if you know, but thats a vw engine in the audi
It think it's hard to compare both test samples when the cups are so large, that even with the presumably "cleaner" oil there's no light penetrating the oil. Maybe a test tube or another thinner cup would've led to different results. Plus your engine was pretty clean from the start. I mean the transformation shown in the commercial is certainly unrealistic, but maybe an engine with a bit of oil sludge here and there would've experienced some "real" cleaning effect.
Thanks for the test !
But if you use already dark oil for the flush its difficult to see change in color.
I was surpised abouth the compression results.
Thanks again !
Many thanks for your video nice one 👍🏼
I mean. You put engine flush in a perfectly fine engine apart from the excess carbon on the pistons, no wonder there is no significant effect. Do the same to a 100k+ mile 1.8T thats sludged up to the brim and watch the magic.
Thanks to synthetic oils, sludge is a thing of the past, no?? My 1999, 240,000 mile Jeep 4.0L's valve train looked like new when I did the valve cover gasket around 220,000. 5W-40 synthetic every 6,000 miles.
@@Hubjeep not for short range drivers
Nice video. Prety good job. Hope to see the Ceratec soon
Amazing work man!!! I had to subscribe at least to show my appreciation of your welcomed knowledge sharing. Im going to say I'll have to buy this and try on my 2013 335i bmw!
I know Liqui Moly works. My Silverado was having sludge issues and causing low oil pressure. After using Liqui Moly my oil pressure went way up to normal. I’ll use it about every other oil change.
That increase in compression may have been because it was standing still for 2 years and performance progressed because of the running of the engine alone.
i used to use that engine flush and well tbh i think it contributed to my head gasket going on my last car as tbh i really looked after it and cant understand why my head gasket went on it and 130k miles on a vw group 1.9tdi engine
Great Work 👍 a product video should be like this ...
Great effort, fantastic video, 👏 no matter what is the result, but quality of video and information is great.
my motorcycle had 1 cylinder at only 96psi. the service limit was 109psi. the other cylinders were 160psi, 155psi, 145psi. after running an engine flush through the engine the low cylinder was up to 144psi. the rest were now 162, 160psi, 155psi. so gummed up rings were the problem. i ran the engine for 600 miles and retested. the low cylinder was now up to 155psi(rings must have reseated) the other cylinders stayed te same.