Does Liqui Moly Engine Flush work? | Full Test & Review | Pro-line 2037
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- I measure the results on cleaning, deposits, compression and noise before and after running the cleaning cycle of Liqui Moly’s Pro-line Engine Flush on my gasoline, 2.0 litre turbocharged Audi A4.
Featured Product or Tools
Liqui Moly Engine Flush - geni.us/liquimoly-engine-flush (Amazon)
Magnetic Spark Plug Socket (16mm) - geni.us/magnetic-plug-socket (Amazon)
Mity Vac Compression Tester Kit - geni.us/mityvac-compression (Amazon)
Bentley Publishers Audi A4 B6-B7 Service Manual - geni.us/bentley-audia4-manual (Amazon)
Haynes Repair Manual Audi A4 02-08 - geni.us/haynes-audia4-manual (Amazon)
Chapters
0:00 Product and test category intro
4:51 Baseline tests
13:36 Installing new parts
15:28 Cycling the engine cleaner
15:57 Second set of performance tests
17:44 The results
I start with baseline figures of the car’s decibel readings at idle from an exterior and interior location, then take a sample of the current oil and filter it to look for deposits that might be floating around the oil pan. I take a good look under the valve cover for cleanliness in the head, then take dry and wet compression readings from all cylinders as well as inspecting the cylinder condition with a borescope.
Then I clean, and do it all over again! I try to be as critical and objective of the marketed benefits of Engine Flush as possible to avoid the hype of cleaning effectiveness based on disposed oil samples alone.
It’s entirely possible that Liqui Moly’s Pro-line Engine Flush DID clear out tight passages that assisted cylinder #4 into operating at peak current performance. - Авто та транспорт
Man videos like this is what youtube should be about, instead of clickbait ramble videos. It's really refreshing to see videos like this. Great job dude !
subed before ever watching a vid just reading your comment....
Also, no annoying background music.
The Oil Filter will trap deposits removed by Liquid Moly engine Flush. The filter paper before and after simple shows you have a working oil filter. Any particles you see in the filter paper are just deposits that haven't been filtered out yet in the cycle.
Good point.
He should've cut open both oil filters.
Good job Captain Obvious.
@@meateater4life551 A lot of people that are just getting in to maintenance may not realise this. I'm guessing that you are watching this because you are already a mechanical genius but have nothing bettr to do.
One thing you want to crank the engine until the compression stops building, if you limit it to 5 cranks only you set your self up for failure especially when comparing to another reading. This is because the piston can be a a different part of it's stroke, theres 4 phases to a complete rotation, and if you start the test a a different part of the phase and stop a 5 you can get a higher lower reading if that piston is on its power stroke or sat exhaust stroke.
what is your opinion on the Liqui Moly Engine Flush?
@@jerryx2000
he just said his opinion, that it was imperfectly tested(so if he hasn’t tried it, hU knows)👋
good test thO, but 2 big snafUs- cR was already in good shape & not enuf rotations for comp. check(good test thO, much more competent than most stuff on youtube - but those 2 snafUs make it tough to see)✋
@@jerryx2000s someone who does this for a living, I will tell you diesel and transmission fluid do the exact same thing.
Now I would tell you for a fraction of the price, but with inflation these days, that's no longer true.
However, I always took half a liter of 50/50 diesel-transmission fluid mix and it worked like a charm to dissolve sludge.
One thing you should always do is once you run the flush, you should drop the oil pan and check for any debris that may have oozed to the bottom and is now blocking the pick up tube.
why are you typing like a fucking imbecile? are you black? or whats your excuse?@@ezwa9979
Forget the product. Man you are the true you tuber..... no words to say..... hats off..... perfection off the desk.
Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed experiment
I really appreciate these kind of thorough and well put videos
Excellent production values - narrative and speed. Straight to the point no click bait waffle and UA-cam tutorials at there best here - well done - if only they were all like this 😮 👍👍
Nice job, really in depth review!
Huge,huge amount of work is done here,exellent job!
Amazing thorough review. Great work
This is the most thorough review for this type of product I've ever seen. Fantastic work! I just came across this video in my searching of the liqui moly proline flush, was just watching each video as it came up. Started watching this and thought how odd i hadn't heard of this channel, it must be pretty well established to be doing a video of this quality...quick glance down...537 subs?? wtf? I was expecting like 500k?! Liked and subscribed immediately! Really well done on the video structure, audio and video quality too, I'll be sharing it with my car friends.
Came here to watch the review of the engine flush before I use it in my S2000, stayed and watched the whole video because of the quality content!
Wow, xtian., super kind of you to say all this - thank you. I'm just a car guy that wants to know how stuff works and likes to learn :)
@@FigureItAudi you are doing a very good job there ! please keep up with the great topics and video. :) , already subscribed and clicked the notification bell! :)
I can not agree more with you, Xtian. This is really a great video.
Just got my first Audi, used from private other. Wanted to do an initial engine flush, glad I found and subscribed to this channel. Great video
Love the channel dude, haven’t found any channel that’s specific for the b7 2.0 until I found you and you do a lot of stuff the I’d like to do for my car, keep it up 👍
Francis Imperio I can imagine why you want to watch this videos. The 2.0 FSI is so flawed...
B7s are good cars if you can take care of it yourself
This was awesome. Well done man.
Appreciate it. I checked out your videos and it looks like we've got a similar spirit of content - from one VAG enthusiast to another: well done, friend.
Awesome quality video mate, thanks.
@8:15 OMG. This is the first video/article that I've seen someone state or show the expected cylinder compression pressures for each engine size. I tested my 2008 1.8TFSI engine 6 months ago and got 124psi across all 4 cylinders. I was encouraged by the consistent readings but quite a bit worried they were actually all low and indicative of a problem. Whilst slightly on the low side it's a real comfort knowing they are all still well above the wear limit of 109psi. Thank you for your video.
Amazing work, this is the kind of tests one would like to see on manufacturers site.... Excellent...
holy crap man you deserve all the views in the world for this!
Great job. Very detailed and honest. Rare to see expert with honest review in UA-cam
Great video... I'm sure, it took a lot of time for such a good review. Perfect!
This is gold! Why didn't i find it earlier.
That was a brilliant test!
NICE PRESENTATION AND DETAILS! AWESOME!!
Okay this video is perfection! 🤘🏼
Someone prob already commented but the piston wall is a reflection of the piston top. Great video!
I tried Liqui Moly engine lubricant/restorer in my 1992 Miata with 240k miles, for obvious reasons (stock engine, original miles). I of coarse, was skeptical, but what the heck. I only used half the can on the first go round. It took a while, but the compression and noticeable oil burn improved immensely. After about 2 or 3k miles, the compression and power were noticeable improved. I was surprised and amazed that it was actually noticeable. The engine has always been well maintained, but obviously it did benefit from treatment. It also improved valve tic on start-up, which has always been a problem on early Miata's. Still good at 252k miles.
That's not Motor Flush.
What you say "engine lubricant/restorer" is not Motor Flush as in this video. Or was it.
So glad I found this, subbed
The lower compression is because the carbon in the good cylinders, 1,2 and 3, actually have formed to the internals, so when removing, expose minute new compression leakage areas. On your number 4 cylinder, you had carbon holding open your exhaust valves from the heat being greater in the back of the cam. Because of that, less engravnedd carbon on your sidewalls but now your exhaust valves seat all the way because the carbon deposits are no longer holding it open. I've learned this because this is a common problem on first and second Gen coyote engines.
Brother should I do an engine flush on my VW Polo 1.2 TDI, 2011 model , 165k kms . Always serviced with VW approved 5w40 505 00/ 505 01 spec oil.
That was a very good video! Thank you for posting. Now I gotta go watch the create video!
Thank you for doing this kind of tests. Great content. I've tried motul engine Flush cause i couldn't find the liqui moly for volkswagens. But i am pretty sure engine noise has been reduced, specially on idle.
Thanks again, keep up.
Not sure if you know, but thats a vw engine in the audi
In the first reading, all cylinders are low, and the reason is that the engine did not reach operating temperature after that, in the second reading, after the engine reached operating temperature, it seems that all cylinders are equal in pressure. Thank you for this video, wishing you success always
Great effort, fantastic video, 👏 no matter what is the result, but quality of video and information is great.
It lowered the compression on the three cylinders slightly because it broke down some of the gelatinized oil-carbon buildup which, to a point, actually seals the compression chamber more. This is before it gets too bad and starts to become very acidic and etch away at the linings, lowering compression.
Yeah thats true. Thats not a bad thing though since that film is rebuilt in a short time and compression will be up again
what is your opinion on the Liqui Moly Engine Flush?
@@jerryx2000 recommended
Many thanks for your video nice one 👍🏼
Excellent video my fellow Albertan!
Nice video. Prety good job. Hope to see the Ceratec soon
Amazing work man!!! I had to subscribe at least to show my appreciation of your welcomed knowledge sharing. Im going to say I'll have to buy this and try on my 2013 335i bmw!
That Audi tool to remove coils is very techy! But carbon on cylinder wall was just mirrored. The flush though, didn't do spat...
You seem like a guy who takes care of his car. The engine tarnish is nothing of the ordinary. It has no sludge, so i doubt the flush would do much for that. In my car, royal purple just changed the tarnish color to zinc yellow. The plugs clearly had issues. Thorough video man!
Hats off Your Work 👏👏👏👏
I would be curious to see a long term test, use the product at the interval suggested over the period of weeks or maybe even months, I think we would get a better idea that way. Thank you for the good work on this video though!
Im a big fan of liquimoly products. I pair their oil with ceretec,and hydraulic lifter additive. Ive tried EVERY 5w20 oil i coild get my hands on, my temp runs 6 degrees cooler, no more valvetrain noise above the normal, it just all around is amazin. My car is almost to 200k as well. Recently used it in the wifes MDX that has oil consumption problems (3 QUARTS IN 1K MILES) and so far the dip stick is still safe, and the motor is smoother sounding. Tried Royal Purple, Pennzoil Platinum, Mobile 1, redline doesnt seem to make a 5 w 20, and if they did its twice the price. Ill never go back to the yellow,green, or purple again.
Excellent video... Subscribed!!
subbed after explanation of claims and how they will be evaluated
Great Work 👍 a product video should be like this ...
The evened out dry numbers are a great result. Glad I used this stuff before my last oil change. The decreased wet number for cyl#1 could've just been a fluke, oil not making its way to the rings or something.
More likely from not letting the compression reading stabilise. Can see stopping too early in the vid.
@@RealHairyPottyI think it's more to do with oil being far less viscous, cretaes more of a seal around the oil rings when the oil is thicker leading to higher compression, simply leaving the oil flush to stagnate on the sides of the cylinder walls induces lower overall compression as it is more volatile, a dommon trend I see is oil in oil flush is quite sloppy and water like, whereas oil without flush is very sludgy and thick, I work in a waste management facility and can tell when they oil we are recycling has had oil flush put through it! :)
my only explanation is the bad cylinder had the oil rings cleaned, but lower overall compression due to the thin oil, the block should have been thoroughly rinsed with clean oil and a clean filter, ran for atleast 10 minutes with fresh oil then the sump oil and oil filter drained, new oil put in the filter and engine then the cylinders tested. Atleast this is my procedure anyways after having used oil flush on poorly performing engines.
Well, with my moms car (1.4 16V Seat Arosa Sport) a couple years ago, it was burning oil at about 1L/1000km, but after flushing with forte motor flush (warm engine, 45 minutes idling with sometimes revving up ,to 1500rpm) it went down to 1L per 6500km. So that was a huge win too! (So it's nice to see you have improvements in the compression test)
The best Liqui Moly advertising ever!!! No pun intended
It probably freed up a piston compression ring by clearing some deposits there, allowing it to raise the compression. That is an area that nothing else can get to in an engine, so sounds worthwhile.
This is a great video. Thank you!
Great video! I did the same but switched over to liqui moly for the engine oil as well and got great results. No more tapping or oil consumption! Working on an Audi A6 Avant and an A4 2.0T on my channel currently.
which oil do you run?
You should use cheap oil to flush the system after using liquimoly engineflush and then fill in with good oil.
The liqui moly flush evaporates
Funny I did it in my Audi and change the oil from Castrol to Motul specific and surprise no more rattling at cold start. Probably cleaned make some stuck valves or the tensioner stuck. It did something for sure.
I'm going to use this on an engine that has been started many times, run for a minute and then shut off again. The oil was all milky from the condensation and i have cleaned out the oilsump that had a layer of grey milky oil on the bottom , the head looks really clean though. I'm doing a flush as soon as i've done some miles in this car again, have to break in a new cam first.
Great video. I'd like to suggest if you could do a video of using CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner and show before & after videos of the insides of the combustion chambers with your bore scope.
Thanks
I was hoping it would clean
I've seen another LiquiMoly Engine Flush test showing very similar results. Where compression after the treatment was a bit lower. But one cylinder which tested low before the treatment was a bit higher following treatment. We should remember that temperature is a factor with compression testing. Perhaps a cold compression test, followed by a warm test, of both before and after would be helpful.
100%
You have to control for as many variables as possible.
I’d recommend cold crank testing so you don’t run into a hot plug stripper situation.
Good for a Friday night. Bad for an engine.
Great job man
Great video, greeting from Colombia
Brave man. Thank you.
The pistons been equalized, so, if it's close(r) to factory data, I wouldn't worry much. If it helps the oil consumption, I'd let the thing do it's job. :) But it's way more expensive than braking fluid. Dot3 or 4, doesn't matter.
Thank you for the test. It's been refreshing to watch.
Best 20min of my life thank u
Your engine is very clean to be start with
Used liquimolly diesel surge on a audi absolutely amazing stuff mpg shot up less smoke and injectors were filthy very happy with their stuff
@Tommy Salami it's for diesel only runs straight from the can bypass the fuel filter, my car was really clogged up
These types of additives (I prefer BG products) really shine after 3-4-5 full engine oil changes. We’ve been putting full synthetic 5w30 and the BG “MOA” oil additive in a 2000 Camry V6 for about 6 oil changes now. The old 5k-mile oil literally comes out looking brand new at this point. The first 2-3 oil changes were DARK, the oil filter was changed out twice as often as the oil was to catch anything that was dislodged. Additive from reputable brands definitely work. (BG, LiquMoly) But you have to repeatedly use them with every oil change to actually see results. When we did the valve cover gaskets on that same Camry V6 the inside of the cylinder heads were bright and clean. No coking or any deposits. One oil change and running for 10 minutes isn’t going to do anything except clean your cylinder walls a bit. Which is exactly what you experienced. Use BG’s MOA products and you’ll see crazy results long term.
Where do you purchase your BG products from?
@@beehauss My local O’Reilly has all their stuff. The MOA, RF7, 44K, their diesel fuel treatment, etc,
I like BG products, but I wouldn’t use oil additives on my own car. A solid properly rated oil has all the additives you need
I alternately use this and Amsoil engine flush at every oil change . The reason I think my oil doesn't come out black or dark . It comes out a golden color that I can see through as it drains . Changing oil every 5000 miles , using either Pennzoil Platinum 0W16 / Amsoil OE 0W16 and always a Amsoil filter .
Just change your oil regularly. Modern oils already have detergents. That is why you change the oil as the oil itself does not actually wear out but it does get contaminants. Long ago Valvoline made detergent free oil. That caused the engine to gum up.
It's called combustion. No matter how many times you refresh the oil, there will always be deposits
Great video dreat work
Bravo!!!
Did it on my dad’s Tiguan plus some Italian tuning fixed the cold start misfire due to carbon buildup.
Nice tested!!!!
thank you sir. i was about to buy it.
Great video Pal ! At about 12 minutes, seeing the camera scoping the cylinders; great to see! Curious what kind it is?
Fantastic video, almost to the level of Project Farm. However couple of big errors IMO, as others have mentioned.
1. Just crank until compression stops rising, might be 5,6,7...
2. You have a filter in the loop, so obviously where would we expect the majority of any gunk to have been deposited?
Aside those peanut gallery snarks, very good and useful to see that it didn't appear to do much cleaning of carbon at all.
Subbed.
Great video thanks a lot
The idd result might be : 1. cylinder 4 had a lot of build up so compression was down - cleaned up and back to norm. 2. The flush also flushes the lubes so right after the test it may not have been lubricated enough - add oil and run for awhile at lowest rpm possible to go back to normal
If you want all that carbon deposit cleaned from top of the pistons you should use Redline SI1 Fuel System Cleaner. When I used the product on my MK4 Golf It cleaned the pistons to a point where I was able to see the eccentric lines on top of the pistons.
yes I think Redline is the best
I used BG oil flush on an old MR2, and got 25% compression improvements overall, same plugs etc, just fresh oil. The BG product helps free up the piston rings and increases the compression, smells lovely as well. Having seen the results myself, I always use BG oil flush on every service, totally rate it.
are you refering to bg109 or bg epr or the super expensive $300 kit they sell?
How can you prove the very fact that you had an oil change had effect to the engine cleanness?
i have an Acura g2 legend and when servicing the valvetrain of my car there was a LOT of oil buildup (prev owner was lazy on maintenance), decided to give this a try, added a bottle and ran it for about a week and a half then changed the oil and filter, repeated the process once more and changed the oil. after using this product twice in the span of a few weeks i took my valve covers off to check if it did anything and 90% of the oil buildup/carbon residue was gone and the valvetrain looked new. I 100% stand by this product, from now on im planning on throwing a bottle of this aprox 30 miles/1hr before i change my oil. if anyone knows about honda's c32a1 engines they have a habit of the hydraulic rockers making noise after a while. im not sure if this product cleaned out the buildup inside the rockers but they no longer make as much rattle as they did prior to using the engine flush
Great video by the way, I recently purchased the Liqui Moly Engine Flush to see how it works on my A4.
how did it go?
@@chr0nob841 Visually I didn’t see much of a difference little particles but nothing significantly big, on the cleaning side haven’t done thorough check yet. Once I do I’ll let you know, the weather in Mass has been cold lately son haven’t had the chance to work on it.
Regarding the compression improvement for cylinder 4: My best GUESS is that there was a problem with the compression tester installation (hook up) when the baseline compression was tested.
Great wideo. Try this in a Diesel engine with sludge build up, then you will see what this product is capable of. Also you should have changed the oil filter and cut it open, both for the base test and after flush. Subbed!
This is a direct injection engine which builds sludge in the intake and on piston heads
great video. if that were my car u would cut the oil change interval in half until the varnish under the valve cover was gone.
Give this guy a medal
I have to be honest, I didn't do an compression test when I use Liqui Moly Engine Flush on my 2015 VW 1.8 Gen 3 Jetta. But I will admit I it worked perfect for my car because it was burning a ridicule amount of oil monthly were people was saying that's normal for VW/Audi. I've owned multiply cars from both companies, hehe. But this engine flush cured that problem immediately. Their Jectron Gasoline Fuel Injection Cleaner, I'm using now to help fix cold misfires seems to be working also, only been a week but I've had no more misfiring. Changing fuel filter within a couple weeks then Fuel System Cleaner to finish the job...
So this flush achieved my needs, just my 2 cents...
Great video, waiting for ceratec video!
You're very precise! I surly can buy a car that you've driven comfortably
WOW, how detailed YOU ARE...
V.Good Explanation. Thanks.
P.S I'd be lucky if you are in Germany and I bring my car to check it up under your hands :)
Thanks for great video, very useful info. Hi from Halifax, Nova Scotia. I drive b5 & b7
Thanks for checking in, fellow Canuck. Hope those storms passed or that you guys are doing alright.
😄💪 No problems. And thx for care. Yes storm passed us lightly off the course so didn't hit as bad as was expected so no injuries. It did throw green bins down though. It's ok, we will rebuild. 💪🤣😂 Keep them good videos coming 👍 Take care Canuck.
I had an Audi A4 1.8T with 275,000 miles before my Brother purchased for his kids. Always ran synthetic M1 0w-40W and changed every 5-6k. In addition, I did not use low grade octane fuel. Always ran 93. Car ran great and my Brother sold after his kids used it. I now have two Audi A6's. One is an 05 3.2 with 240,000 miles and valve assembly looks a lot better than on this car, (when I replaced gaskets about 12K miles ago). Never did I let gap or plug wear like this either.
It will be nice y you try this in a diesel engine that are much more dirty. Nice video!
Well, it works on the area that's vital for the performance. Certainly the engine has some significant buildup on the piston ring. On the 3 cylinders, the buildups are aligned with the piston ring, so it improves the sealing. I think that explains the compression changes.
Others have changed the oil filters in between and they did 3 oil changes to show the difference between the oil in between the changes, each time the oil got better until it was like new , residue is why they changed the oil and filters each time .
It think it's hard to compare both test samples when the cups are so large, that even with the presumably "cleaner" oil there's no light penetrating the oil. Maybe a test tube or another thinner cup would've led to different results. Plus your engine was pretty clean from the start. I mean the transformation shown in the commercial is certainly unrealistic, but maybe an engine with a bit of oil sludge here and there would've experienced some "real" cleaning effect.
Yes it will work very well
As a former Audi tech for years, those spark plugs are normal for that engine. Nothing out of the ordinary for this engine.
Interesting that you say that. I recently changed plugs on my b7 and 2 of them had the white tip shown on the video but cylinders 3 and 4 were pitch black. What does that translate to?
@@jorgeibanez5694 sounds like a fuel issue. Have you had your injectors cleaned and flow tested?
@@jorgeibanez5694 cylinder 1 and 2 ran too lean and 3 and 4 ran too rich (if its deep black and not shiny/wet black)
residue on the spark plugs is always a sign of how the motor ran THE MOMENT it was shut off
@@Wafflebrah21 I have not had my injectors cleaned/flow tested. I got the car very recently as a “non runner” due to bad starter. There wasn’t any wet residue on the plugs, I pulled them almost immediately after shutting it off. I’ve scanned the codes and found that there was an irregular misfire on cylinder 4. Would injectors be a likely cause of that?
Chris seeing as your a Audi tech would you recommend using this stuff in a folder car? I have a b5.5 passat. Thanks
Probably it won’t clean an engine like in the promo, but for sure your engine was clean before, so there were no deposits to be removed. Regarding the low compression-could be an improvement because maybe the engine flush managed to unstick one or more piston rings from their groove. Maybe.
awesome video
Thank you !
I would really like to use this stuff because I think the screen in my oil pain is starting to get clogged and it's a pretty big job to remove oil pan on my b5.5 passat, you have to remove part of subframe and brace the engine. I'm just afraid that it might uncover some leaks that aren't leaking now.
The dry compression results from before and after is interesting. I would guess that the low cylinder had a stuck piston ring probably from carbon. The flush probably cleaned out the carbon allowing for proper sealing.
The spark plug that was showing signs of running hot had a coil over it that was different from the rest. If you compare the design with the rest, you can see that the OEM ones were designed to dissipate some of the heat while the aftermarket one was isolating the heat. It wasn't the right coil.
CRAP☹️, I just bought crakerjack box prize quality level coils from my nXdOr nAbr😒