I didn’t think there was anything wrong with first clip. Then after 2nd clip (1st engine flush) I realized this was a gas motor not a diesel. Incredible
I had a 2AZ-FE exactly like that. Absolutely caked in crud. Oil pressure warning flickering on. The oil pickup was plugged solid. I had to flush the engine, change the oil, wash out the rocker cover 3 times, and even that wasn’t enough. I had to fill the thing with diesel and let it soak. After a couple days, I drained it out, oiled the camshafts up and refilled the engine. All good now!
This is what I'm gonna do. I got a 03 Suburban 5.3L. It's caked in sludge. I got the heads of because I thought I blew the gasket. Nope just sludge fighting threw the gaskets and into the exhaust. I'm gonna fill it I with 5 gallons of diesel and let it sit.
@@vamoneygroup 2006 GM 3.6L. It (was) pretty bad. Did 3 consecutive kerosene flushes (added 5 ltrs oil, 2 litres kerosene (6.5L oil capacity), new oil filter each time), 1st one was just 15 minutes idle, by the 3rd flush (40 mins) I ran it at 3,000 rpm. HUGE difference - dropped oil consumption from 1.5L per 1,000km to 0.5L per 1,000km, and uses ~ 10% less fuel on a set journey.
Yes I have a regular customer and every single time I looked at or worked on his car it was always low! Always! Kept telling him you can't run it like this! He called with a driveability problem lol well it did but it was 4+ quarts low and was like well time for a new engine or a new car because you spun a bearing lol change your oil regularly and if you don't do that at least keep the oil full
Did a flush to my Suzuki 1.4 boosterjet a few weeks ago. It has only 83000km so it should be pretty clean. After the flush I changed oil and filter, run it for 15 minutes. So all the deposits and cleaning agent would get in the new filter. After that, changed the oil for premium oil and again the filter as well. Runs great.
Yes! Why? Because they don't have: - hydraulic lifters, - too weak timing chains, - too weak materials of cam shafts and valves, - timing belts in oil, - too weak piston rings, - too thin oil lines, ...!
yep 100% they need to be checked, I did mention that in the video and also gave another example of where to clean on a Honda K series if you did a flush. Those mesh filters will be easily and cleaning them after a flush is definitely recommended 👌👍 Thanks for taking the time to comment
Get a case of cheapo filters and couple of gallons of k1 kerosene. Put a gallon in the crank case. Start it. Don't drive it. 1 minute, change the filter. Do this 2-3 times. Change oil, filter drive around for 20 min. Sludged up Audis love it.
As long as you're NOT talking about ADDING a full gallon (above and beyond) normal oil level (too much in the crank case can start blowing seals and causing all sorts of drama), you're pretty much spot on! I was quoted $7-8k for a rebuild on my SLUDGED 2006 GM 3.6L. 3 kero flushes (6.5L capacity, I added 5 ltrs oil and 2 ltrs kerosene (and a new filter) for each flush), first one was just 15 min idle, second one 30 mins with periodic revving, 3rd was 40 mins with 15 min at 3,000 rpm made a HUGE difference. Rebuild 'postponed', it seems to run fine, oil consumption dropped from 1.5 ltr per 1,000km to 0.5 ltr per 1,000km and uses ~ 10% less fuel over a set journey. Now that I've found out how easy it is to do your own oil changes (don't even need to jack the car up!) I'll be both taking better care of it and saving money along the way :)
Engine flush at each oil change for a few changes fixed lifter tick in my MX5, added some lifter tick additive before and it helped a bit but not like doing engine flushes did.
If that engine had been flushed every oil change from 5k miles onward at every 3k then it wouldn't have sounded like a sewing machine as there wouldn't have been any sludge build up in ANY part of the engine -especially the head. I bought a volvo 850 in 2007 with only 20k on the clock. I changed the oil filter/oil and flushed it at every 3k and used top quality fully synthetic 10w30 oil and recommended Volvo filter. When i sold it in 2020 with 100k on the clock and service book oil changes to prove ALL oil changesTthe man who bought it phoned me 9 months later and told me that he had followed my oil change procedures and the engine was still running beautifully . I would recommend that an engine flush be carried out at EVERY oil change - your engine will benefit greatly from it and you will be VERY glad that you did.
You were overdoing it, If the engine had always had its scheduled oil changes, you did not need to do any flushes or use any special products. No harm done, of course. But high end products cost more and you get no benefit from them. I have an old Camry with a 5SFE (timing belt) engine. The previous owner had all the oil changes done as recommended and I change the oil every 2800 miles using whatever products are the cheapest. At 173K miles, the engine runs like new. No one makes bad motor oil. All products have their uses, but sometimes retailers stock inappropriate products, for example, non-detergent SA oil.
@@jgranger2002 I've carried out this procedure on every car since i was 18 and I've yet to have ANY engine or oil consumption problems (oil/compression rings are cleaned by the flush) as the gallerys, feed pipes, oil pump and sump are kept clean. I took an engine apart that had 175k i had since it only had 5k on it (i am an IT Contractor and do approx 35k per year) and i wanted to see how the engine had held up - the comp /oil rings were spotless and the compression per cylinder was as new. There was no staining on the camshaft lobes or residue aroind the valve seals or on the springs. An engine flush cleans at the molecular level, ensuring that deposits are dissolved and exit the engine with the oil when it's drained. A clean engine can run more efficiently, which can prolong its life and reduce the risk of expensive repairs. Obviously, each person must do as they see fit, but, as this has worked for me without failure, then I'll just keep on following thia routine.
@@anonymike8280 Stick cheap motor oil into a high end European car and see the results of your 'Frugality' VERY quickly. As for flushing - flushing cleans the compression and oil rings plus the oil ways, galleries, pipes, oil pump and sump. In 2015 my friend took his jaguar xj6C 4.2 engine apart at 250k miles for a full rebuild (he was going to rebuild the whole car from the ground up - finished in 2018). When he sent itcaway to the engineers he got a call 10 days later from an amazed manager who told him that 75% of the internals were within spec and how was this possible considering the mileage. He gave him the full run down of his servicing routine - nuff said.
keep in mind, can aslo use a good ATF for the flush additive, as in, 1 quart to replace a quart of oil in a full oil change, the higher detergents in ATF can help clean up sludge ect as well, and it shouldnt hurt any seals. but always change your filter after.
For an engine this dirty I'd be dropping the sump after every flush to check the pickup condition, quite often crud gets sucked in and clogs it. You should also be hoping none of the oil galleries or sprayers become clogged with what you dislodge. Nice result here, how did it fair in the long run?
I tell people with an engine this bad they better leave it alone and just change the oil more often. Loosening up all that gunk creates more problems, especially in newer engines.
Thank you for another decent video that doesn't oversimplify like others do. I'm not sure I would have stopped at two changes, but the results are still excellent. I'd appreciate any updates on this engine if you feel it would be plausible. I'm not sure many other engine manufacturers could have their cars' so obviously neglected and be brought back with such a treatment.
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage BG EPR is an extremely powerful engine flush that would safely remove the hard sludge/carbon that is still present on the engine's cam bearing caps.
Notice that the sludge is deposited on the inert parts of the rocker area. Engine flushes can be dangerous, Even in a case like this, if the the oil pressure is normal, there is no need to flush the engine. If the oil pressure is not normal, the first thing to do is pull the oil pan and see if the pickup is clogged. If it is clogged ,clean it and put it all back together. You still don't need a flush. Use synthetic oil or semisyntheteic oil if permitted and then accelerate the oil change interval. Whatever wear has been put on the engine component already, you cannot reverse it with any additive.
It truly sounded like a diesel. What a difference. So what do you say to those who say that it can clog oil tubes/screens/galleries/passageways or cause seals to leak?
It's all down to neglect and lack of maintenance. I change the oil and filter every 10K km, use premium oil. Every 20K km I use engine flush. Another oil often forgotten is the gearbox oil, in my case it gets changed every 40K km, manufacturers recommendation. My car is 18 years now and has 200.000 km done. No major repairs, only maintenance and parts that wear.
Exactly. Just bought my wife a new Lexus hybrid SUV a few months ago. Had its oils change at 1k miles, then every 5k miles after that from now on. Lexus recommends oil change every 10k miles, which is nonsense. We have 2 other Lexus in the household and the engines still sounds smooth at 158k and 42k miles.
Cleaning up the mess in my 35 years w Ford I found the sludge was holding the engine parts in place and cleaning the crank seals always caused them to leak due sludge was holding the leak back. I told customer to run as long as possible, I was amazed how long the engine lasted till rod bearing spun etc. Of course customers cud sell car. The tapper noise cud be stopped by cleaning those rockers, push rods and getting oil to those parts.
First, I enjoyed your video and thought it was very informative. If I might suggest one thing that may improve the clients engine further, if you've not done so already, is to use a "100% PAO Esther" based oil. Esther oils have a much greater degree of solvency than "full synthetic" oil so dissolve carbon build up more readily. The downside is that the oil itself is typically twice the price so I would only use it in these fringe applications. Keep up the good work!
I think you are trying to reference “Ester”. Unless you folks spell it differently over the pond. PAO Esters are great, however only in extreme cold and extended drains. Modern group III and group III+ practically match the performance of PAO. This has been proven. Also worth noting, PAO’s don’t have the best polarity (affinity for metal). Granted additives in the oil help this, but PAO is far from magic. Oils have come along way from this 80’s approach to oil formulation. GTL (gas to liquid) is the future for base oil formulation. Cheers 🍻
@@nordicpride9708 group III+ have the same poor solvency as PAO too, both are less polar. So oil manufacturer either use ester or group 1 oil to improve solvence. Which is why "high mileage" oil exists. We can use cooking oil instead. corn, canola or palm oil. Unfortunately modern oil lack shear stability of PAO. this is worse in high rpm engine. Worse when oil manufacturer decided that more viscosity index is better. more and more people start to suggest useless engine flush "treatment". When the correct solution should be using group 1 oils or oil with ester or oil mixed with 10% cooking oil (more can result it sludge released too fast and cloging oil passage) So full synthetic today have much worse capability than full synthetic 20-30 years ago.
@@kupas2 Group III oils provide almost identical performance to that of PAO with very few exceptions as I’ve listed. Not sure where you get your information, but it’s not all correct. If you are saying modern oil is a downgrade to 80’s blending technology I think you need to speak to some tribologists and see what their reaction is to your statement… Engine oils aren’t intended to remove sludge, carbon and the like. They’ve never been good at this. Their job is to lubricate, cool, actuate solenoids and keep an engine clean. Not resurrect it after it’s been neglected. PAO is in Mobil 1 0w-40 and it’s a ok cleaner. It’s not going to hold a candle to carbon that’s already formed in piston rings, oil passages and the like.
Great job , but that was very risky, because I did that on a 77 Ford LTD , and I ruined the engine . It blocked every little hole inside the engine. And being a Toyota that has very little holes , that was very risky. You are extremely lucky. I personally wouldn’t do that for anyone. Lol
Customer opted into the decision and ultimately was happy to take the risk and it this case it has worked out extremely well, I myself did not make the decision but I can understand both sides 🙌
might as well dump in 2qts of Diesel gasoline or ATF fluid in there to if it it has that much sludge , flush it until its almost clean, gotta drop the oil pan (or use a scope) and check the oil pickup
Put a bottle of Wynnes and idled for 15 minutes b4 change oil/filter. The 3K oil (usually dirty ginger) was jet black on a decentlty serviced petrol 1.3. 110.000miles. It ran well better after!
I have flushed engines using regular kerosene. The solvent was poured into the engine all the way to the top. Wait for a few days and darain. Then I used a wicking method to filter the kero till clean. Worked for me Sir. But I still dropped the pan and removed the valve cover Gerard. Today I stay away from stupid customers who want a miracle for being STUPID !! And lets not forget SYMPATHY TOO. I just tell them to go somewhere else with there headache, Just wondering customer male or female ?? Peace vf
Dexron VI o,5 liter and drive 500mls, then 30% of the sludge ist out, repeat it 3 times and prolong the oil change intervall. More than one engine saved😊
This is VVTI that sound is instantly recognizable, Its the sound of the pin in the oil driven cam shaft mechanism that changes the valve timing. Its designed to hold the value timing open when you first start but pops back in when with oil pressure changes and changes the valve timing by moving the cam shafts slightly. It will be so clogged that its stuck.
I just dump some diesel and atf in. Drive to town and back and do it again x3. But you have to keep in mind that anything that ended up in the filter went through your oil pump.
Is it just me, or is the engine running with higher RPMs in the "After" recording than "Before"? That could explain it running quieter also... However, engine flushes can save engines for sure. I myself prefer Auto-RX, which is not a flush, but softens and loosens sludge slowly as you drive as usual instead of breaking off chunks and flakes. Slower for sure, but safer imo.
Probably just higher RPM from a cold start perhaps. I somehow think though that level of tappety-tap in the 'before' would probably carry on through the whole rev range, low or high.
I go even 1 step safer and just change the oil once a month for a year to clean it. The fresh oil cleans everything up over time pretty well on its own.
Hey! Just a suggestion for next time you come across an engine like this..... NULON so an extreme engine flush, and one that can be driven on... So you can add the flush and drive around for a few 100km.... Its great stuff... 🤙
Bg extreme flush its 200 euros great for mazda diesel injector washer carbon in engine its melts the carbon 2 5 litres can flush and rinse its works insanely good
Liqui-Moly pro-line engine flush smells straight like diesel and you mix it with old oil, let the engine run for 10-15 minutes but some shops even go to 30-40 minutes, and you drain it out. You then do half the amount of oil with some cheap off-brand oil let the engine run for 5-10 minutes, drain that out, and finally you put in a new filter + new oil. Mileage, oil burning, noise, cold starts everything became quieter and on a 2012 Camry hybrid the engine was requiring less time to start up and be ready for EV mode. Afterwards I didn't see Liqui-moly MOS2 or any kind of additive besides Fully synthetic oil which already has a ton of detergents and cleaning agents. This was after 150-160k miles, and oil changes every 5,000 miles or at most 6,500 miles.
Use something like Liqui-Moly Ceramatec or MOS2, you want an additive on such an old engine whatever you dislodge is getting stuck elsewhere and running an engine in that condition can be catastrophic. The additives mention lubricates and the Ceramatec supposedly fills in holes or scrapes with the ceramic compound to reduce oil burning for 30,000 miles but don't flush your engine.
I'm kinda confused about engine flush, some videos I see people leave the engine running while the flush is in but I've also seen others who rev the engine while using a flush. I'm about 2 weeks away from doing my first ever oil change and wanna do it right. Also been some people put fresh oil onto the new oil filter and other who just put in it. Any reason why people prime the filter and rev the engine while using engine flush.
Just follow the instructions on your flush can. Liqui Moly says that you need to idle your engine for 10 minutes, then change oil. Also, you do NOT need engine flushes on new engines. Make sure you change your oil every 6000 miles (10.000 km) or 6 months, the one that gets firsts, and you're good to go. If you want to make your engine wear less, you can add Ceratec on every other oil change. When you buy an used car, you need to replace and flush every fluid ASAP (except transmission fluid, which needs to be checked with a professional mechanic).
@@gonzalotapia1250 I take issue with not needing to flush a new engine. I say you should flush and change everything at 200 miles. then put in the best engine oil you can buy. And change oil and filters before you hit 5,000 miles every time. The first one is to make sure all manufacturing debris is completely removed.
Hey Gerard great video here but I have a question should i use that engine flush on a car that had been sitting on a paddock for 7 years with only 11k kilometers ?? I hope you reply cuz i really need to know.
Those cams are worn, while time consuming I would have loved to see a before, and after under the valve cover. Detergents in motor oil don't really clean, their primary role is to help neutralize any acids in the motor which cause corrosion. Most motor oils are not capable of cleaning, due to the heavy refining done to them. Pure conventional oil oddly enough can clean due to its limited refining. Its also the dirtiest of oils as well so dirty out, dirty in. There are aspects of motor oils which can clean, but any organic oil which has been heavily refined will have lost that ability to clean. They contain aromatic fatty acids, which are polar, kinda has a solvent like effect to them which helps clean. Its removed from the oil in the same process that removes waxes from it. Makes it cleaner, but reduces the cleaning ability of the oil. Any pure conventional oil can clean (groups 1, 2) but groups 3 (being heavily refined group 2, and to some degree gas to liquid oils, as well as group 4 (PAO) lack the natural solvency. Group 5 Esters can clean, they have the same natural solvency as group 2's aromatic fatty acids. Their expensive oils though, and due to their nature they can eat away at seals in the motor. Their typically diluted down to combat this effect. You can also use alkylated naphthalene, which is somewhat common as an oil additive (from the factory) only in very high end motor oils.
@@bsaxonfishing2163 diesel oils use the same base stocks, and additives as gasoline oils. The biggest difference is zinc, or ZDDP (which is technically an ester), along with how much of each anti-wear additive is in the oil. Increased levels of viscosity improvers, and really not much real difference. Different levels of additives, which could help prevent sludge, but it's not exactly going to clean. Higher levels of dispersants, and detergents (not cleaning detergents) help keep the higher levels of soot from diesel motors in suspension. This prevents sludge formation, but again no real oil is designed to clean, so much as limit the build up of sludge. Using diesel oil in a super modern engine (direct injection, and turbo's) is a good was to cause LSPI which fills a fair amount of motors. It's become such a problem they have made a new spec of oil to combat this ILSAC GF-6A. Traditionally diesel, and gasoline motor oils where pretty similar in additives, they have recently diverged significantly. Wouldn't recommend their use on any motor made in the last 5 years.
Correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't zinc replaced with higher amounts of sulphur to make epa happy. My Silverado has 295k. Once yearly I buy diesel oil and a cheap filter. Drain regular oil out and put that in and run a day. I then open the drain and let it drip all night. My oil stays relatively decent looking. However I aim to change around 4k each time
@@bsaxonfishing2163 are you referring to moly sulfer? Sulfer is a very common element, its polar, binds to metals, so any antiwear additive which could bind to sulfer should in theory also help it bind to metal as polar elements tend to attract to metal surfaces natural. In the process it could displace some sludge (which is also polar) but the biggest issue with sulfer, and zinc/ZDDP is their polarity. They tend to build up inside the catalytic converter, primarily on the rare metals which reduces their effencience of converting carbon dioxide, to carbon monoxide. They are trying to phase these elements out of motor oils in general, which is why diesel oils have been lowering their use of zinc/ZDDP on general. Respectful in terms of oil color it truly means nothing these days, prior to detergent/dispersants being used it would show build up in the oil. These days it does not, most motor oil is pure these days, clear, but folks have become accustomed to amber, so dyes are added. An oil could be pitch black, and still perfectly fine, or clear but bad. The primary causes for oil turning darker is fuel making it's way into the oil, or heat. The issue with motor sludge is it's converted into a form of plastic/polymer. The chemical chain breaks down, and as it does it changes, motor oil really has no way to dissolve this polymer, so it can be difficult to remove, however it's also polar, so it will attract itself to metal, like a magnet. If enough of it build up some can break free, which would ultimately make its way to the filter, or the oil pumps pick up screen.
The start up clatter is not related to the lifters or valve train thankfully. It’s coming from the VVT actuator. When the engine is turned off the VVT actuator turns the camshafts into the retard position and locks with a tiny pin. When the engine is turned on, oil pressure unlocks the pin so the camshaft can advance as the engine warms up. The oil pressure is created through tiny veins in the actuator, which I suspect are plugged possibly by sludge breaking loose. It does let go but hammers for a couple seconds so there is still some crud in the actuator or the actuator pin is worn. You can clean that actuator if you choose to. That will get rid of the rest of the noise. It sounds good other than that. Actuator lock pin startup noise is pretty normal for Toyota VVT. I would just leave it.
Actuator makes noise because it needs to build up oil pressure. This issue gets worse overtime because the gaskets for the VVTI are brittle and old so replacing the gaskets in the valve cover fixes this issue and if it's ignored will destroy the top end of the engine.
Wouldn't it have been to have plugged the oil holes after removing the valve cover and washing it with deiesel or kerosene vigorously with a brush and cloth then dropping the oil pan to clean it and the oil pickup in the pan as the last step.
Please note that the results were mainly achieved by the thorough cleaning of the valve cover to improve the oil circulation. What should have also been done was the loosening and physical removal of the oil sludge in the valve train. I would have also changed the oil and filter cartridge then filled engine with diesel and idled for 10 minutes as the initial flush. Do another filter cartridge change and refill with new diesel for another 10 minute idle. Then I would use a cheap oil with the Penrite flush product and another filter cartridge. Flush engine again with new cheap oil then you are now ready for the new oil and filter cartridge.
@@ozgurakman10 A good reason why the engine is IDLED only without any engine revving and NOT driving. I have also been using diesel for engine flushing since the 70's. In the past 8 years, I have been removing oil sludge from my 2GR-FE engine using diesel as the engine flush.
i thought deisel engine oil had detergents to keep them cleaner. seen countless engines that are heavily coated like that, surprisingly a few mechanics cars. imagine the intake ports on that engine probably full of crud.
The oil pump and pickup should be removed and cleaned also as it's now clogged up after dissolving all that gunk . How can the oil pump circulate oil properly if it's full of junk?
I have a Corolla for last 14 years, and still mechanics say engine is in good condition. Nothing special done, only oil & filter & AC filter, break pad replacements. Suspensions were changed once, clutch once. It has never Knocked or done any thing out of order.
Why not using the completely brutal method? - cleaning the camshafts with break cleaner - draining the oil and changing the filter - using high quality or synthetic Diesel instead of oil - idle for some minutes and repeating to change for new Diesel - finally open the valve cover and removing the oil pan; cleaning - new high quality oil with high HTHS and high content of cleaning agents and a new filter
I didn’t think there was anything wrong with first clip. Then after 2nd clip (1st engine flush) I realized this was a gas motor not a diesel. Incredible
Me too. Exactly.
and me i thought it was a diesel
I had a 2AZ-FE exactly like that. Absolutely caked in crud. Oil pressure warning flickering on. The oil pickup was plugged solid. I had to flush the engine, change the oil, wash out the rocker cover 3 times, and even that wasn’t enough. I had to fill the thing with diesel and let it soak. After a couple days, I drained it out, oiled the camshafts up and refilled the engine. All good now!
This is what I'm gonna do. I got a 03 Suburban 5.3L. It's caked in sludge. I got the heads of because I thought I blew the gasket. Nope just sludge fighting threw the gaskets and into the exhaust. I'm gonna fill it I with 5 gallons of diesel and let it sit.
@@vamoneygroup 2006 GM 3.6L. It (was) pretty bad. Did 3 consecutive kerosene flushes (added 5 ltrs oil, 2 litres kerosene (6.5L oil capacity), new oil filter each time), 1st one was just 15 minutes idle, by the 3rd flush (40 mins) I ran it at 3,000 rpm. HUGE difference - dropped oil consumption from 1.5L per 1,000km to 0.5L per 1,000km, and uses ~ 10% less fuel on a set journey.
@@OhSodditIf I never heard about this before I’d think it was a prank.
Note to self: If oil filter is full of chunks of engine metal, remember to run the next engine WITH oil.
Yes I have a regular customer and every single time I looked at or worked on his car it was always low! Always! Kept telling him you can't run it like this! He called with a driveability problem lol well it did but it was 4+ quarts low and was like well time for a new engine or a new car because you spun a bearing lol change your oil regularly and if you don't do that at least keep the oil full
Did a flush to my Suzuki 1.4 boosterjet a few weeks ago. It has only 83000km so it should be pretty clean. After the flush I changed oil and filter, run it for 15 minutes. So all the deposits and cleaning agent would get in the new filter.
After that, changed the oil for premium oil and again the filter as well.
Runs great.
Only Toyotas can survive that.
I 100% support this comment 🙌🏽
Hondas buddy
Yes! Why?
Because they don't have:
- hydraulic lifters,
- too weak timing chains,
- too weak materials of cam shafts and valves,
- timing belts in oil,
- too weak piston rings,
- too thin oil lines, ...!
Yes 😊
Crown. VICS.. FORDS,, LINCOLN TOWNE CARS,, FORD V10. TRITON MOTORS,,HAVE SURVIVED WORSE🎉🎉
Oil is cheap, engines are not! Good job!
Sounded like a 7.3 Powerstroke swap at first. I would check those VVT oil control valves on top cover too.
yep 100% they need to be checked, I did mention that in the video and also gave another example of where to clean on a Honda K series if you did a flush.
Those mesh filters will be easily and cleaning them after a flush is definitely recommended 👌👍
Thanks for taking the time to comment
Man what a difference ! The "Before" in the "before and after" really sounded like an old diesel truck !
Get a case of cheapo filters and couple of gallons of k1 kerosene. Put a gallon in the crank case. Start it. Don't drive it. 1 minute, change the filter. Do this 2-3 times. Change oil, filter drive around for 20 min. Sludged up Audis love it.
As long as you're NOT talking about ADDING a full gallon (above and beyond) normal oil level (too much in the crank case can start blowing seals and causing all sorts of drama), you're pretty much spot on! I was quoted $7-8k for a rebuild on my SLUDGED 2006 GM 3.6L. 3 kero flushes (6.5L capacity, I added 5 ltrs oil and 2 ltrs kerosene (and a new filter) for each flush), first one was just 15 min idle, second one 30 mins with periodic revving, 3rd was 40 mins with 15 min at 3,000 rpm made a HUGE difference. Rebuild 'postponed', it seems to run fine, oil consumption dropped from 1.5 ltr per 1,000km to 0.5 ltr per 1,000km and uses ~ 10% less fuel over a set journey. Now that I've found out how easy it is to do your own oil changes (don't even need to jack the car up!) I'll be both taking better care of it and saving money along the way :)
Engine flush at each oil change for a few changes fixed lifter tick in my MX5, added some lifter tick additive before and it helped a bit but not like doing engine flushes did.
If that engine had been flushed every oil change from 5k miles onward at every 3k then it wouldn't have sounded like a sewing machine as there wouldn't have been any sludge build up in ANY part of the engine -especially the head.
I bought a volvo 850 in 2007 with only 20k on the clock. I changed the oil filter/oil and flushed it at every 3k and used top quality fully synthetic 10w30 oil and recommended Volvo filter. When i sold it in 2020 with 100k on the clock and service book oil changes to prove ALL oil changesTthe man who bought it phoned me 9 months later and told me that he had followed my oil change procedures and the engine was still running beautifully .
I would recommend that an engine flush be carried out at EVERY oil change - your engine will benefit greatly from it and you will be VERY glad that you did.
You were overdoing it, If the engine had always had its scheduled oil changes, you did not need to do any flushes or use any special products. No harm done, of course. But high end products cost more and you get no benefit from them. I have an old Camry with a 5SFE (timing belt) engine. The previous owner had all the oil changes done as recommended and I change the oil every 2800 miles using whatever products are the cheapest. At 173K miles, the engine runs like new. No one makes bad motor oil. All products have their uses, but sometimes retailers stock inappropriate products, for example, non-detergent SA oil.
100% not needed and could damage the engine. This engine was neglected to the extreme. 15k mile oil changes or longer.
@@jgranger2002 I've carried out this procedure on every car since i was 18 and I've yet to have ANY engine or oil consumption problems (oil/compression rings are cleaned by the flush) as the gallerys, feed pipes, oil pump and sump are kept clean.
I took an engine apart that had 175k i had since it only had 5k on it (i am an IT Contractor and do approx 35k per year) and i wanted to see how the engine had held up - the comp /oil rings were spotless and the compression per cylinder was as new. There was no staining on the camshaft lobes or residue aroind the valve seals or on the springs.
An engine flush cleans at the molecular level, ensuring that deposits are dissolved and exit the engine with the oil when it's drained.
A clean engine can run more efficiently, which can prolong its life and reduce the risk of expensive repairs.
Obviously, each person must do as they see fit, but, as this has worked for me without failure, then I'll just keep on following thia routine.
wow you're amazing and clearly love yourself ❤
@@anonymike8280 Stick cheap motor oil into a high end European car and see the results of your 'Frugality' VERY quickly.
As for flushing - flushing cleans the compression and oil rings plus the oil ways, galleries, pipes, oil pump and sump. In 2015 my friend took his jaguar xj6C 4.2 engine apart at 250k miles for a full rebuild (he was going to rebuild the whole car from the ground up - finished in 2018). When he sent itcaway to the engineers he got a call 10 days later from an amazed manager who told him that 75% of the internals were within spec and how was this possible considering the mileage. He gave him the full run down of his servicing routine - nuff said.
keep in mind, can aslo use a good ATF for the flush additive, as in, 1 quart to replace a quart of oil in a full oil change, the higher detergents in ATF can help clean up sludge ect as well, and it shouldnt hurt any seals. but always change your filter after.
For an engine this dirty I'd be dropping the sump after every flush to check the pickup condition, quite often crud gets sucked in and clogs it. You should also be hoping none of the oil galleries or sprayers become clogged with what you dislodge. Nice result here, how did it fair in the long run?
Filter
@@I_Am_Your_Problem Filter doesn't stop everything from entering into the pickup.
I tell people with an engine this bad they better leave it alone and just change the oil more often. Loosening up all that gunk creates more problems, especially in newer engines.
Thank you for another decent video that doesn't oversimplify like others do.
I'm not sure I would have stopped at two changes, but the results are still excellent. I'd appreciate any updates on this engine if you feel it would be plausible.
I'm not sure many other engine manufacturers could have their cars' so obviously neglected and be brought back with such a treatment.
🙏🙏
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage
BG EPR is an extremely powerful engine flush that would safely remove the hard sludge/carbon that is still present on the engine's cam bearing caps.
@@William-13 someone mention bg product destroy his seal.
only 1 the VW
Notice that the sludge is deposited on the inert parts of the rocker area. Engine flushes can be dangerous, Even in a case like this, if the the oil pressure is normal, there is no need to flush the engine. If the oil pressure is not normal, the first thing to do is pull the oil pan and see if the pickup is clogged. If it is clogged ,clean it and put it all back together. You still don't need a flush. Use synthetic oil or semisyntheteic oil if permitted and then accelerate the oil change interval. Whatever wear has been put on the engine component already, you cannot reverse it with any additive.
It truly sounded like a diesel. What a difference.
So what do you say to those who say that it can clog oil tubes/screens/galleries/passageways or cause seals to leak?
Yeah that's a lot better, I watched this because I wanted to know whether flushing a berlingo was worth it and it clearly is 👍
It's all down to neglect and lack of maintenance. I change the oil and filter every 10K km, use premium oil. Every 20K km I use engine flush. Another oil often forgotten is the gearbox oil, in my case it gets changed every 40K km, manufacturers recommendation. My car is 18 years now and has 200.000 km done. No major repairs, only maintenance and parts that wear.
Exactly. Just bought my wife a new Lexus hybrid SUV a few months ago. Had its oils change at 1k miles, then every 5k miles after that from now on. Lexus recommends oil change every 10k miles, which is nonsense. We have 2 other Lexus in the household and the engines still sounds smooth at 158k and 42k miles.
Cleaning up the mess in my 35 years w Ford I found the sludge was holding the engine parts in place and cleaning the crank seals always caused them to leak due sludge was holding the leak back. I told customer to run as long as possible, I was amazed how long the engine lasted till rod bearing spun etc. Of course customers cud sell car. The tapper noise cud be stopped by cleaning those rockers, push rods and getting oil to those parts.
Sounds like a whole new engine
That's some difference Gérard at the start I taught that it was a diesel car
Same here, a six straight at that.
Interesting video, thanks Gerard😊
First, I enjoyed your video and thought it was very informative. If I might suggest one thing that may improve the clients engine further, if you've not done so already, is to use a "100% PAO Esther" based oil. Esther oils have a much greater degree of solvency than "full synthetic" oil so dissolve carbon build up more readily. The downside is that the oil itself is typically twice the price so I would only use it in these fringe applications.
Keep up the good work!
Penrite EO does come with Esther base as 1 of its ingredients.
cooking oil do the same, or just use adnoc px green or kixx bio1
I think you are trying to reference “Ester”. Unless you folks spell it differently over the pond. PAO Esters are great, however only in extreme cold and extended drains. Modern group III and group III+ practically match the performance of PAO. This has been proven. Also worth noting, PAO’s don’t have the best polarity (affinity for metal). Granted additives in the oil help this, but PAO is far from magic. Oils have come along way from this 80’s approach to oil formulation. GTL (gas to liquid) is the future for base oil formulation. Cheers 🍻
@@nordicpride9708 group III+ have the same poor solvency as PAO too, both are less polar. So oil manufacturer either use ester or group 1 oil to improve solvence. Which is why "high mileage" oil exists.
We can use cooking oil instead. corn, canola or palm oil.
Unfortunately modern oil lack shear stability of PAO. this is worse in high rpm engine. Worse when oil manufacturer decided that more viscosity index is better.
more and more people start to suggest useless engine flush "treatment". When the correct solution should be using group 1 oils or oil with ester or oil mixed with 10% cooking oil (more can result it sludge released too fast and cloging oil passage)
So full synthetic today have much worse capability than full synthetic 20-30 years ago.
@@kupas2 Group III oils provide almost identical performance to that of PAO with very few exceptions as I’ve listed. Not sure where you get your information, but it’s not all correct. If you are saying modern oil is a downgrade to 80’s blending technology I think you need to speak to some tribologists and see what their reaction is to your statement… Engine oils aren’t intended to remove sludge, carbon and the like. They’ve never been good at this. Their job is to lubricate, cool, actuate solenoids and keep an engine clean. Not resurrect it after it’s been neglected. PAO is in Mobil 1 0w-40 and it’s a ok cleaner. It’s not going to hold a candle to carbon that’s already formed in piston rings, oil passages and the like.
Thank you for this diesel to gasoline engine conversion video! I always heard it could not be done but you did it, Bravo!
Great job , but that was very risky, because I did that on a 77 Ford LTD , and I ruined the engine . It blocked every little hole inside the engine. And being a Toyota that has very little holes , that was very risky. You are extremely lucky. I personally wouldn’t do that for anyone. Lol
Customer opted into the decision and ultimately was happy to take the risk and it this case it has worked out extremely well, I myself did not make the decision but I can understand both sides 🙌
might as well dump in 2qts of Diesel gasoline or ATF fluid in there to if it it has that much sludge , flush it until its almost clean, gotta drop the oil pan (or use a scope) and check the oil pickup
Wow amazing do u have pic of top end of engine after second flush
Anyone who neglects a car that way deserves to pay for an engine rebuild.
Toyotas hold up to abuse like no other.
I agree though sometimes it can be the person who buys the car from such a ower who pays the penalty
Put a bottle of Wynnes and idled for 15 minutes b4 change oil/filter. The 3K oil (usually dirty ginger) was jet black on a decentlty serviced petrol 1.3. 110.000miles. It ran well better after!
Thats a great difference, nice video.
Thanks Michael
I would replace one of the quarts of oil with Marvel Mystery Oil and leave it in, then change the oil in about a 1000 km.
Fantastic work done by you.
Keep it up.
Thanks to you.
🙏
Any update on how this engine is going, really want to see a folliw up videi
Very good video. About to do a flush on my classic , but will check that the flush is solvent free. Based on your comment! Thanks for the tip
I have flushed engines using regular kerosene. The solvent was poured into the engine all the way to the top. Wait for a few days and darain. Then I used a wicking method to filter the kero till clean. Worked for me Sir.
But I still dropped the pan and removed the valve cover Gerard. Today I stay away from stupid customers who want a miracle for being STUPID !! And lets not forget SYMPATHY TOO. I just tell them to go somewhere else with there headache, Just wondering customer male or female ??
Peace vf
Dexron VI o,5 liter and drive 500mls, then 30% of the sludge ist out, repeat it 3 times and prolong the oil change intervall. More than one engine saved😊
Doing 6 oil changes in 12 months to make up for the 6 years of missed oil changes.
This is VVTI that sound is instantly recognizable, Its the sound of the pin in the oil driven cam shaft mechanism that changes the valve timing. Its designed to hold the value timing open when you first start but pops back in when with oil pressure changes and changes the valve timing by moving the cam shafts slightly. It will be so clogged that its stuck.
Which is the consumption of the oil before and after the engine flush of that engine?
sump service now needed to clean the pickup filter
Wondering if product safe for vvti Toyota engine, cheers.
I just dump some diesel and atf in. Drive to town and back and do it again x3. But you have to keep in mind that anything that ended up in the filter went through your oil pump.
I'd like to know if there's any way you can reduce the noise from all the reverberation in the room you're in!
Is it just me, or is the engine running with higher RPMs in the "After" recording than "Before"? That could explain it running quieter also... However, engine flushes can save engines for sure. I myself prefer Auto-RX, which is not a flush, but softens and loosens sludge slowly as you drive as usual instead of breaking off chunks and flakes. Slower for sure, but safer imo.
Probably just higher RPM from a cold start perhaps. I somehow think though that level of tappety-tap in the 'before' would probably carry on through the whole rev range, low or high.
I go even 1 step safer and just change the oil once a month for a year to clean it. The fresh oil cleans everything up over time pretty well on its own.
Hey!
Just a suggestion for next time you come across an engine like this.....
NULON so an extreme engine flush, and one that can be driven on... So you can add the flush and drive around for a few 100km.... Its great stuff... 🤙
That engine trying to become a Powerstroke with that sound!
Ive had good results with engine flushes on my motorcycles and my cars
Bg extreme flush its 200 euros great for mazda diesel injector washer carbon in engine its melts the carbon 2 5 litres can flush and rinse its works insanely good
Liqui-Moly pro-line engine flush smells straight like diesel and you mix it with old oil, let the engine run for 10-15 minutes but some shops even go to 30-40 minutes, and you drain it out. You then do half the amount of oil with some cheap off-brand oil let the engine run for 5-10 minutes, drain that out, and finally you put in a new filter + new oil.
Mileage, oil burning, noise, cold starts everything became quieter and on a 2012 Camry hybrid the engine was requiring less time to start up and be ready for EV mode. Afterwards I didn't see Liqui-moly MOS2 or any kind of additive besides Fully synthetic oil which already has a ton of detergents and cleaning agents.
This was after 150-160k miles, and oil changes every 5,000 miles or at most 6,500 miles.
VVT-i filter must be replaced which is under the vvt-i solnoied..14mm bolt
If not your vvt-i gear will be starved of oil
What particular size engine is this ? MY ol ladys 2014 Camry is making this same noise and it's vvt-i. Is it a 2.5ltr ?
I would use Marvel mystery oil with the next 3 or 4 Oil change intervals. I would also increase the oil change intervals.
Fill it with diesel. Soak. Drop. Cheap oil, run 10, drop. Cheap oil and new filter, drop.
Will diesel hurt any seals while soaking during this process? This is the route I'd go, if it is safe!
How many oil changes in a weekend until the oil that comes out looks clean?
BG Engine Restore system will have it looking and performing like new
Great video
Would this be a thing to do on like a 1977 v8 ? Engine seems to run good but oil pressure dropes off a lot after it worms up
Use something like Liqui-Moly Ceramatec or MOS2, you want an additive on such an old engine whatever you dislodge is getting stuck elsewhere and running an engine in that condition can be catastrophic. The additives mention lubricates and the Ceramatec supposedly fills in holes or scrapes with the ceramic compound to reduce oil burning for 30,000 miles but don't flush your engine.
I'm kinda confused about engine flush, some videos I see people leave the engine running while the flush is in but I've also seen others who rev the engine while using a flush. I'm about 2 weeks away from doing my first ever oil change and wanna do it right. Also been some people put fresh oil onto the new oil filter and other who just put in it. Any reason why people prime the filter and rev the engine while using engine flush.
Just follow the instructions on your flush can. Liqui Moly says that you need to idle your engine for 10 minutes, then change oil.
Also, you do NOT need engine flushes on new engines. Make sure you change your oil every 6000 miles (10.000 km) or 6 months, the one that gets firsts, and you're good to go. If you want to make your engine wear less, you can add Ceratec on every other oil change.
When you buy an used car, you need to replace and flush every fluid ASAP (except transmission fluid, which needs to be checked with a professional mechanic).
@@gonzalotapia1250 I take issue with not needing to flush a new engine. I say you should flush and change everything at 200 miles. then put in the best engine oil you can buy. And change oil and filters before you hit 5,000 miles every time. The first one is to make sure all manufacturing debris is completely removed.
Holy hell, the 220k engine in my '10 Prius was spotless compared to this thing. It's like they NEVER changed the damn oil, sad.
Use full synthetic, and do an oil change every 1500 miles.. would clean it up in a year, if driven daily
Check out some videos of BG Dynamic engine flush. Very impressive results of cleaning engines that look like this.
Hey Gerard great video here but I have a question should i use that engine flush on a car that had been sitting on a paddock for 7 years with only 11k kilometers ??
I hope you reply cuz i really need to know.
How did you go? I'm guessing it can not do any harm just the extra $$$
Oil pickup strainer should be cleaned also a vlocked strainer means in the head and catastrophe.
Is the product safe for seals, etc?
Is it true that turbo charged engines suffer premature damage due to flushing engine products chemicals?
Really great oil product
Chevy: "without oil I'll lock up in 5 minutes. Toyota: "hold my beer, oil's overrated".
Have i missed but where video cover off after wash?
Mighty job Gerard, unreal difference, fair play👌👍🙏🙂
cheers Pat 🍻🙌💪💪👌😊
Try the BG system. It should remove all that to near new condition.
Those cams are worn, while time consuming I would have loved to see a before, and after under the valve cover.
Detergents in motor oil don't really clean, their primary role is to help neutralize any acids in the motor which cause corrosion. Most motor oils are not capable of cleaning, due to the heavy refining done to them.
Pure conventional oil oddly enough can clean due to its limited refining. Its also the dirtiest of oils as well so dirty out, dirty in. There are aspects of motor oils which can clean, but any organic oil which has been heavily refined will have lost that ability to clean.
They contain aromatic fatty acids, which are polar, kinda has a solvent like effect to them which helps clean. Its removed from the oil in the same process that removes waxes from it. Makes it cleaner, but reduces the cleaning ability of the oil.
Any pure conventional oil can clean (groups 1, 2) but groups 3 (being heavily refined group 2, and to some degree gas to liquid oils, as well as group 4 (PAO) lack the natural solvency.
Group 5 Esters can clean, they have the same natural solvency as group 2's aromatic fatty acids. Their expensive oils though, and due to their nature they can eat away at seals in the motor. Their typically diluted down to combat this effect.
You can also use alkylated naphthalene, which is somewhat common as an oil additive (from the factory) only in very high end motor oils.
Use diesel oil and it'll clean very well
@@bsaxonfishing2163 diesel oils use the same base stocks, and additives as gasoline oils. The biggest difference is zinc, or ZDDP (which is technically an ester), along with how much of each anti-wear additive is in the oil.
Increased levels of viscosity improvers, and really not much real difference. Different levels of additives, which could help prevent sludge, but it's not exactly going to clean.
Higher levels of dispersants, and detergents (not cleaning detergents) help keep the higher levels of soot from diesel motors in suspension. This prevents sludge formation, but again no real oil is designed to clean, so much as limit the build up of sludge.
Using diesel oil in a super modern engine (direct injection, and turbo's) is a good was to cause LSPI which fills a fair amount of motors. It's become such a problem they have made a new spec of oil to combat this ILSAC GF-6A.
Traditionally diesel, and gasoline motor oils where pretty similar in additives, they have recently diverged significantly. Wouldn't recommend their use on any motor made in the last 5 years.
Correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't zinc replaced with higher amounts of sulphur to make epa happy. My Silverado has 295k. Once yearly I buy diesel oil and a cheap filter. Drain regular oil out and put that in and run a day. I then open the drain and let it drip all night. My oil stays relatively decent looking. However I aim to change around 4k each time
@@bsaxonfishing2163 are you referring to moly sulfer? Sulfer is a very common element, its polar, binds to metals, so any antiwear additive which could bind to sulfer should in theory also help it bind to metal as polar elements tend to attract to metal surfaces natural.
In the process it could displace some sludge (which is also polar) but the biggest issue with sulfer, and zinc/ZDDP is their polarity. They tend to build up inside the catalytic converter, primarily on the rare metals which reduces their effencience of converting carbon dioxide, to carbon monoxide.
They are trying to phase these elements out of motor oils in general, which is why diesel oils have been lowering their use of zinc/ZDDP on general.
Respectful in terms of oil color it truly means nothing these days, prior to detergent/dispersants being used it would show build up in the oil. These days it does not, most motor oil is pure these days, clear, but folks have become accustomed to amber, so dyes are added.
An oil could be pitch black, and still perfectly fine, or clear but bad. The primary causes for oil turning darker is fuel making it's way into the oil, or heat. The issue with motor sludge is it's converted into a form of plastic/polymer. The chemical chain breaks down, and as it does it changes, motor oil really has no way to dissolve this polymer, so it can be difficult to remove, however it's also polar, so it will attract itself to metal, like a magnet.
If enough of it build up some can break free, which would ultimately make its way to the filter, or the oil pumps pick up screen.
Correct. ✅
The start up clatter is not related to the lifters or valve train thankfully. It’s coming from the VVT actuator. When the engine is turned off the VVT actuator turns the camshafts into the retard position and locks with a tiny pin. When the engine is turned on, oil pressure unlocks the pin so the camshaft can advance as the engine warms up. The oil pressure is created through tiny veins in the actuator, which I suspect are plugged possibly by sludge breaking loose. It does let go but hammers for a couple seconds so there is still some crud in the actuator or the actuator pin is worn. You can clean that actuator if you choose to. That will get rid of the rest of the noise. It sounds good other than that.
Actuator lock pin startup noise is pretty normal for Toyota VVT. I would just leave it.
Actuator makes noise because it needs to build up oil pressure. This issue gets worse overtime because the gaskets for the VVTI are brittle and old so replacing the gaskets in the valve cover fixes this issue and if it's ignored will destroy the top end of the engine.
Wow from a diesel engine to a gas engine sound.
The knocking was due to blocked hydraulic lifters
Thats why you need to change your oil every 5000-6500 miles to avoid these buildup issues and piston rings issues
how do I know how much litre of old engine oil is inside my engine.?
BG Products has a professional flush kit for sludged up engines .
Needa do the 40k flush or Amsoil/Liquid Molley
Wouldn't it have been to have plugged the oil holes after removing the valve cover and washing it with deiesel or kerosene vigorously with a brush and cloth then dropping the oil pan to clean it and the oil pickup in the pan as the last step.
Really interesting, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.
Can’t believe the oil pump and its pick up can move that much debris and still function.
The first important thing is. What was the maintenance service intervals???
Tajota? never heard anyone say it like that
Don’t do it on older British engines, often it’s only hard sludge keeping fluids in !
Good stuff. 👊
👌
Please note that the results were mainly achieved by the thorough cleaning of the valve cover to improve the oil circulation. What should have also been done was the loosening and physical removal of the oil sludge in the valve train. I would have also changed the oil and filter cartridge then filled engine with diesel and idled for 10 minutes as the initial flush. Do another filter cartridge change and refill with new diesel for another 10 minute idle. Then I would use a cheap oil with the Penrite flush product and another filter cartridge. Flush engine again with new cheap oil then you are now ready for the new oil and filter cartridge.
10 mins with pure diesel will destroy bearings of crank and rods.
@@ozgurakman10 A good reason why the engine is IDLED only without any engine revving and NOT driving. I have also been using diesel for engine flushing since the 70's. In the past 8 years, I have been removing oil sludge from my 2GR-FE engine using diesel as the engine flush.
i thought deisel engine oil had detergents to keep them cleaner.
seen countless engines that are heavily coated like that, surprisingly a few mechanics cars.
imagine the intake ports on that engine probably full of crud.
i see its a petrol engine imitating a deisel , the vvt must be struggling, imagine the vvt screen
The oil pump and pickup should be removed and cleaned also as it's now clogged up after dissolving all that gunk . How can the oil pump circulate oil properly if it's full of junk?
After that, switch using diesel oil for further cleaning
what would happen if you add too much of this engine flush, I mean if you add an entire bottle to 5or 6l of oil. IMO it would be even better
I once saw a big block Cadillac that was accidentally fed diesel instead of petrol, it sounded exactly like this car,
very useful
Why not scrape most of that caking off the cylinder head and go from there?
I have a Corolla for last 14 years, and still mechanics say engine is in good condition. Nothing special done, only oil & filter & AC filter, break pad replacements. Suspensions were changed once, clutch once. It has never Knocked or done any thing out of order.
There's a better engine flush product on the market now, the BG Dynamic Flush system. It's $300, but it works very well, several YT videos on it's use
Why not using the completely brutal method?
- cleaning the camshafts with break cleaner
- draining the oil and changing the filter
- using high quality or synthetic Diesel instead of oil
- idle for some minutes and repeating to change for new Diesel
- finally open the valve cover and removing the oil pan; cleaning
- new high quality oil with high HTHS and high content of cleaning agents and a new filter
No bad cars just bad owners,total lack of oil changes
You should have used BG engine flush.
You should open a cover after flushing to see imside!
That flush transitioned the engine from a diesel to a gasser