Quinn, small correction. Loctite anaerobic cure products (603, 242, etc) are methacrylate based, not cynoacrylate like the moisture cure super glue. The methacrylate products will attack plastics. Semi-crystalline polymers like Delrin or Nylon will be pretty resilient, but if you're using an amorphous plastic like ABS or polycarbonate even close proximity use can lead to cracking. On the products I've designed with polycarbonate display windows we made sure to use one of the moisture cure thread lockers even though the screws were threading into metal.
I don’t have a lathe nor do I plan to make this hammer, but watching you work and listening to the nice way you explain what you are doing was great. Thank you for the hard work you put into making your videos.
Hello Quinn. I'm new to machining, having retired after a lifetime in IT. :-) As someone said to me, it's not so much getting a lathe and a mill - it's getting all the tooling. That is sooo true. It's one of the reasons I enjoy your videos and excellent productions. Making tools saves money and is a great way to learn new skills and get to know your machines and your materials. This machinist's hammer was fun for me to make. I like your approach, your humour and the fact you keep a very clean shop! Keep it up!
Hey Blondihacks I've only just gotten my first lathe and have been diving head first into machining and your channel is nothing short of an incredible resource. I love seeing women in the trades and you are extremely skilled, we're all very fortunate that you take the time to share what you've learned. Thank you so much for all the hard work you've done!
I worked in a machine shop when I was younger. Decided to pursue this passion. Going back to school in Sept for a year of machining. I love your channel. I can't wait to make a machinist hammer. So nice. Been binge watching your channel Quinn.
As someone who uses the metric system I really appreciate when you add subtitles like "1/2 thou is more or less 13 microns" :) As always, a wonderful and fun video to watch, Quinn!
I made one of these hammers a few months ago. The handle was made of aluminum. A threaded brass rod was used between the handle and aluminum head. The handle and head were counter board and taped to receive the brass rod. I used brass and Delrin for the cap ends on the head, but I used threaded rod in the aluminum head and added Loctite to retain the screw rods. I drilled and taped the brass and Delrin cap ends. This gave them an easier change out when the time comes. I drilled a 3/16 hole in the side of the heads for a pin to tighten the cap ends on or to remove them. I also grooved out the end of the handle and added an o-ring for when I put the hammer down, preventing the handle end from banging on the table. I use this hammer all the time. I'm an amateur machinist and I wish you well.
I've been a Machinist for a long time. I thought you did a great job on your hammer project. I really enjoyed watching it. The only part I thought you any difficulty with is the knurling. To get a good knurl you first need to know what the tooth to tooth pitch of the knurl roll is in thousands of a inch. You can find this by checking the catalog data for the knurl roll. Then figure the circumference of the material to be knurled. Divide the circumference by the knurl roll pitch in thousands of a inch. What you want is a even number, no decimal points left over or as close to even as possible. Adjust the diameter bigger or smaller as needed. A few thousands of a inch in diameter can make a big difference in knurl roll tracking correctly . Thanks for the Video. Craig
I made my hammer with a piece of steel tube. Turned down 2 steel endcaps and silver soldered them on then filled the tube with molten lead then drilled and tapped the endcaps to accept a brass and a Delron face. Used a threaded insert into the lead to secure a simple wooden handle. I cannot say that it is the most beautiful tool ever made but it is nicely balanced and very useful.
The trick to making good knurls is the circumference of the part to be knurled has to be divisible by the pitch of the knurl. i.e. when the part makes one full turn the teeth on the knurl land in the same spot. To do this tighten the knurling tool just enough to make a mark on your part and give it a few turns by hand. It will be readily apparent if it's tracking correctly. If it isn't turn a few thousandths off the part and try again. Repeat as necessary. Once it's tracking correctly then crank up the pressure to make a full knurl and engage your feed. It's a time consuming way of doing it (there are formulas to calculate the proper diameter but I can't ever remember them) but if you want really good looking knurls it's the way to go.
I'm a budding hobby watchmaker/micro-machinist, and this is the first of your videos I've seen. It's so cool to know there is at least one woman out there who loves machining metal this much and is so amazing at it! I look forward to watching more and learning from your awesomeness!
I was taught with delrin to take the heaviest deepest fastest feed cut possible. Eg. Try a 1/4" or 3/8" cut with heavy feed as a roughing pass, even on a small lathe. The curls end up thick and uniform and instead of wrapping around the work they fall off to the side of the lathe.
Thank you for you inspiration and of course the plans for the shop hammer. I just finished making my own version of the hammer. It has a copper, brass, and delrin hammer head. I screw the spare head onto the handle of the hammer so it is always available.
Super video, I wish I had found your channel before I retired so I could have done some machining projects. I see that Acetal has about 1/20th the post machining growth of nylon. That stability should make your Delrin parts a lot more stable. The moisture growth of nylon can be used to advantage in some instances, but that's another story.
Woaaaaa, you used the TOT time machine maneuver. You finished the handle, then you loaded the Brass for the hammer, found some runout, and did the tappy tap tap with the hammer you were making!
Cool! I Just bought myself a Sherline 4100 lathe (I actually said that on another one of your videos's comments :D) And I had some extra stock and I made on of these today! I obviously made it a lot tinier and metric but it is great! I can use it to tappy tap tap!
Watching this now makes me realise just how bloody good my late father was as a production machinist turned teacher. I made my first tappy-tap hammer with a tapered shank and brass and aluminium faced steel head on a Colchester Student around 50 years ago at about age 12. Then I ended up with a career as a graphic designer. Returning to hobby machining now I’ve done with that work malarkey.
Other trick I've used with acetyl is using a turning tool with a ridiculous back rake like 5-8 degrees (seems to break the string up and shoots it away from work piece) Vacuum looks the go though
I have nice little jewelers hammer that I use on guitar work, such as setting frets and other small tapery jobs. I made new heads, similar to your techniques to use different materials such as Delrin and aluminium (UK spelling 😉), it came with copper. Your commentaries are great with good relevant detail, great for beginners and olde greasy Engineers with bad memory, like me. Thanks for the time you take to do this.
I like the use of machinist hammer when indicating the brass head on the lathe. Love your vids and like you I love, love love those thread checkers on the cable. Ive got SAE and metric. They are great.
I tried Kool Mist in a Noga Mini-cool for CNC milling, and I wasn't impressed. It works well for cooling, but it was...for lack of a better word...squeaky. I ended up switching to soluble oil for milling and whenever I can I run carbide dry at high speed in the lathe. It doesn't always work out. :)
As an apprentice 50 years ago one of the machining projects was to make a similar hammer, I never finished it as I only made the handle, after watching your video I should finish the hammer head :-)
Greetings from Croatia! Excellent work and very eloquent explanations. At first, one may think that such tool is not essential, but tools like this bring magic that makes you enjoy your work.
Great machinist project and when executed well will last forever.Always good to remember how long you have been using a shop made tool and how satisfying it is.
Great project for me as a beginner. I’ve got the handle done and it actually looks like yours. Yes, I did have to be careful when clean out the “ear canals” but that has been a problem with me over the years. As you can imagine! Just ask my wife for confirmation over the years. God Bless Her! This has been a great first project for someone , like me, that just bought a lathe but knows nothing about one. I love your presentation and I love that you have a heart for women in the trades. I do too. I teach Diesel engines to technicians coming thru the class and it always warms my heart when young ladies come thru my classes. Please don’t focus so much on the ladies as the young men need guiding too!
My 8x16 mini lathe is being delivered tonight! I've been binge-watching your channel for a couple of weeks to get ready. (Last time I used a lathe was a huge and very old Bridgeport in high-school machine shop, circa '72.) You're a truly excellent instructor, and I learn a great deal from every video. Thank you so much for creating this amazing resource on YT.
"Let's take a little ride on the tailstock" You're laughing but the german word for tailstock is actually "Reitstock" whitch litteraly means ride-stock :D
The East German Guy -I spent two years in Germany from 1957, located outside Wegberg. Did a lot of travel across Germany and adjacent countries. Enjoyed most of the places, people, events etc. Maybe Germany, like the UK and other parts of Europe, have lost or have had their unique qualities somewhat diluted over many years, much like Australia has become over the last 50 years, where I have lived since leaving England in ‘68. Love this channel- learn something every time I visit.👍😁🦘
@@TobiasHoffmannWup Same here in most European countrys england germany france. Poop and pee smell. Since im from the greatest country there is i rest my case. Although San Francisco, and new york has places that stink but our country is huge so its all good.
@@robertreynolds9228 I live in Germany and rarely smell it. I mean, after a longer heat period, you can smell the sewers, when it's going to rain tomorrow. But that's the same in every country in the world, that has a sewer system. Cheers
I turn alot of PTFE at work and we always use the vacuums to suck up the swarf. Also can get decent chip controll if you have 0 rake and have the tool upside down.
Very nice note about the dangers of plastic strings. They may not look like much, but they still have a breaking strength above that of your fingers! Just helps make the point that, no matter what it is, don't muck around with the chips! At least not while the lathe is in motion!
Lovely one!!! Made a tiny hammer for my shop some time ago (not as nice or big as yours though). My first lathe project was a small brass cannon... VERY simplistic, but it was a good start... and a LOT of fun. After that... well... I got hooked. Lathes (and mills) are addictive - It's just so MUCH fun... :)
Perfectly presented.Please keep on doing whatever is that you do so well. You are hitting right where people (like me) know a bit but not a lot, giving us practical uses for these skills. You are my hero!
I made one of these a few years ago, I used brass tubing for the main "body" of the hammer. I just cut the threads in the tubing and screwed the handle with a bolt through the tubing. I first screwed in the copper bit, filled it with bits of lead, then installed the handle with the screw and heated everything until the lead melted and added more until I had just enough room for the POM (delrin) head left. The lead holds the threads in place and adds some nice weight to the body.
I made mine about twelve years ago! I just made mine out of solid brass! The plastic tips are nice! I have one out of hex brass and then another just bar stock! Great job! Keep up the great work and videos!
Quinn! When you're doing threaded holes on the mill or lathe I've found it best to use a 120 degree spotting drill that's bigger than the threaded major diameter. Trick is to spot the hole so the spot diameter is .03-06" or so larger than the major diameter of the thread. That way when you drill and tap you get a nice chamfer and the 60 deg thread pitch matches the 120 deg spot. It's a really nice way to not raise a bur after threading and keeping the face flat. Love watching your videos!
After watching three of your videos I am definitely giving you the sub. I love your witty sense of humor and of course the way you explain things so that even someone who is completely new to a task can understand. From what I can see so far you are a wonderful teacher.
When I made a brass hammer I just wedged a piece of dead tree into a chunk of brass which I drilled by eye *shudder*, but this is an entirely different beast 😃. Way to beautiful to hit things with it.
Wow, what a great job you did, both with the tutorial, as well as the camera work!!! Thank you so much for sharing! I watched from start to finish and can't wait to try this project on my lathe! Best regards from South Africa
Quinn, you're the best! I love these little projects - something I didn't get nearly enough of while I was doing my machine shop time. And that was 39 years worth. Keep them coming, young lady!
Hi,quinn, excellent video, a couple of tips which i dont think are mentioned below. To cross drill the hole for the handle, mount the bar across a 4 jaw self centering chuck ,which will guarantee the hole to be in the centre of the diameter of the bar, and you then only need to dti the length of the bar in the centre. To achieve a flat bottomed hole ,use an endmill fitted to your toolpost as a boring bar, to add a flat bottom with a clean internal edge. Well done !
Just on gluing Delrin, it's basically a sod to glue (technical UK expression). The only way to really do it effectively is to paint the mating surfaces with Magic Chemistry Stuff (also technical UK expression) that makes the two surfaces melt together with the assistance of an oven, or heat gun for smaller parts.
False advertising and disliked, this isnt a Machinists Hammer! This is a Machinists Tappy Tapper!! Haha great work as always Quinn the finish is beautiful!
I’m a newby and have watched a couple of your vids now and am enjoying them. Like everyone who is good at what they do you make it look easy, the hard part is explaining it, you are very good. There is a lathe shaped spot in my shed which needs filling. Jeff
Thanks for letting us into your process. I have learned a ton from you. I particularly appreciate that you share your mistakes and mishaps and admire your clever recoveries from them. Keep it up!
You can also get a bit further on the depth of a tapped thread with a spiral FLUTE tap. But you probably already know that, this is for the people reading the comments who might not :D
Quinn, to me this tappy tap tap video is one of your best! when I finally get my lathe running I'll give this a shot! and you a daisy for showing how it's done for us noobs.
Awesome timing on this one Quinn, as I have to build my own hammer as an assignment for my apprenticeship, and I want to make something I’d actually use on the daily. Love your work.
Found your channel a while back while researching mills. This video convinced me to subscribe. I know very little about machining but want to learn more and possibly embark as a hobbyist. I think your channel will be a big help in doing so. Love your content, presentation style and sense of humor. The q-tip line made me laugh more than it probably should have.
This is one of the best YT channels around for hobbyist machinists. Way too many beginner videos assume you have a full-sized shop packed to the brim with tooling. Definitely check out her "Lubricants and Chemicals You Need in a Machine Shop" video.
I'm not a machinist but I do fabricate metal parts, mostly for my motorcycle. The original gas tank held 2.9 gallons with the .9 gallon was for the reserve. I put a larger 3.7 gallon tank on my bike and since the original seat wouldn't fit, I made a solo seat. I learned how to heat treat metal on UA-cam, heat treated the rear mounts for the new tank and the hinge for the seat.
Hi Quin, great informative video as usual. Your video's are a pleasure to watch, and you explain everything along the way. With the 4 jaw chuck, I have made 2 wood handles with square metal ends, when adjusting the chuck, you have a handle in each opposite jaw and turn them together (in opposite ways) This very quickly gets the work piece in the center, then tighten with the key. Hope I explained that easily. Regards Shayne....Australia(down under)
When threading copper a number of the forums suggest that you can use milk as a cutting fluid. The concept is the water in the milk cools the part while the butterfat lubricates the threads. It's worth try.
We always made the hammers out of lead . Either from buckshot or recycle yard . very soft metal we melt down and reform many times when i was in machine shop .
7:38 "This is what it does!" There is a good series on Netflix called "Dark", which involves time travel, and the Bootstrap paradox. The idea of using an object from the future to make said object just reminds me of the series :D
The other day I made purely out of pine a hammer of about 2 inch o.d. by 3. 5 inch length with about 5.8 inch by 5 inch length of Redgum timber for the light tappy tap taps on metal items like brass so as not to cause damage. As part the idea of this hammer, if I use it between another metal hammer, it gives the timber buffer and the timber hammer shutters out of the way, the Redgum handle being the size it is, it can break before an injury would really happen.
Thanks Blodihacks! My lathe arrives tomorrow.Since rusty old Atlas lathes around here are still priced higher than gold I got a Chinese 8x16. Curious to see how much I can do with it.
I would recommend a lead head, the weight and softness makes a perfect dead blow hammer. Just make a slightly tapered mold that can hold a brass nut/screw and pre-tin it with regular solder for a good bond.
Quinn, love the videos. Make yourself a second chuck key for the 4 jaw. Makes things much easier when you use both together. Not my original idea, just something I picked up somewhere. Regards from Dublin Ruaidhri
Great project, as I always say, there is always room in the tool chest for another "beating instrument". It has also been said that no project in history could have been completed without some version of a hammer. Cheers, I enjoyed this project sublimely!
Can we get a video using a milling machine and an octagon shaped hammer for us without a lathe ? Nice work. 100% too nice to hit stuff with. But ok for tappy taps
It’s long been lost but in ‘72 or ‘73 I made one of these in jr high school metal shop. Steel clam shell head which clamped on the faces, with an aluminum handle pulling the clamshell together. This looks definitely easier.
Love your videos!❤️🙌 An old machinist friend of mine said he bought a welder to build his welding cart and bought the lathe and mill to make accessories for the welding cart! 😳🤣 For most hobbyists, machining is for the elite hobbyists. Building parts is cool but paying your bills is cooler!🥶😂
nicely done. Suggestion make some flat bottom drills. What I did was buy a cheap drill index and reground all of the drills with flat end at 90 degrees to the Centerline of the drill. A tricky proposition but well worth it.
I made one of these in HS shop class... never been used. We got to design our own handles for it (part of the grade was on print quality), and even though the machining quality is pretty garbage, I never had the heart to use it. One key difference is the plastic tips are female threaded and joined to the center of the head with all-thread.
I noticed you use your hammer to position stock on to parallels. I was taught that the reason we generally use a dead blow hammer is not only to protect what we are "Tappy tap tapping", but also to minimize the rebound of the hammer and therefore the rebound of the material (Newton's third law). Otherwise the material has a tendency to jump and defeat the seating operation.
As someone who machines copper somewhat frequently at work (when modifying resistance welding tips/parts, often made from class 2 (chromium) or class 20 (beryllium) copper)... I concur. It turns and mills nice most of the time, but doesn't die well. I'm pretty sure our supplier single points everything. Although as "bulk produced" as their welding consumables are, perhaps they are die threaded to reduce cycle time? I do know they're CNC lathed and milled for the most part.
Quinn, small correction. Loctite anaerobic cure products (603, 242, etc) are methacrylate based, not cynoacrylate like the moisture cure super glue. The methacrylate products will attack plastics. Semi-crystalline polymers like Delrin or Nylon will be pretty resilient, but if you're using an amorphous plastic like ABS or polycarbonate even close proximity use can lead to cracking. On the products I've designed with polycarbonate display windows we made sure to use one of the moisture cure thread lockers even though the screws were threading into metal.
Ah, good to know. I assumed cyanoacrylate because they smell exactly like superglue.
I don’t have a lathe nor do I plan to make this hammer, but watching you work and listening to the nice way you explain what you are doing was great. Thank you for the hard work you put into making your videos.
Hello Quinn. I'm new to machining, having retired after a lifetime in IT. :-) As someone said to me, it's not so much getting a lathe and a mill - it's getting all the tooling. That is sooo true. It's one of the reasons I enjoy your videos and excellent productions. Making tools saves money and is a great way to learn new skills and get to know your machines and your materials. This machinist's hammer was fun for me to make. I like your approach, your humour and the fact you keep a very clean shop! Keep it up!
Hey Blondihacks I've only just gotten my first lathe and have been diving head first into machining and your channel is nothing short of an incredible resource. I love seeing women in the trades and you are extremely skilled, we're all very fortunate that you take the time to share what you've learned.
Thank you so much for all the hard work you've done!
I worked in a machine shop when I was younger. Decided to pursue this passion. Going back to school in Sept for a year of machining. I love your channel. I can't wait to make a machinist hammer. So nice. Been binge watching your channel Quinn.
As someone who uses the metric system I really appreciate when you add subtitles like "1/2 thou is more or less 13 microns" :)
As always, a wonderful and fun video to watch, Quinn!
I made one of these hammers a few months ago. The handle was made of aluminum. A threaded brass rod was used between the handle and aluminum head. The handle and head were counter board and taped to receive the brass rod. I used brass and Delrin for the cap ends on the head, but I used threaded rod in the aluminum head and added Loctite to retain the screw rods. I drilled and taped the brass and Delrin cap ends. This gave them an easier change out when the time comes. I drilled a 3/16 hole in the side of the heads for a pin to tighten the cap ends on or to remove them. I also grooved out the end of the handle and added an o-ring for when I put the hammer down, preventing the handle end from banging on the table. I use this hammer all the time. I'm an amateur machinist and I wish you well.
I've been a Machinist for a long time. I thought you did a great job on your hammer project. I really enjoyed watching it. The only part I thought you any difficulty with is the knurling. To get a good knurl you first need to know what the tooth to tooth pitch of the knurl roll is in thousands of a inch. You can find this by checking the catalog data for the knurl roll. Then figure the circumference of the material to be knurled. Divide the circumference by the knurl roll pitch in thousands of a inch. What you want is a even number, no decimal points left over or as close to even as possible. Adjust the diameter bigger or smaller as needed. A few thousands of a inch in diameter can make a big difference in knurl roll tracking correctly . Thanks for the Video.
Craig
Awesome work! Loved the commentary
You know the content is good when the king of restoration channels praises it
Not only the work and didactic to explaining but the video edition was “supreme” there’s no word better, thanks for all effort and love you put on it!
feudiable, Good point, :)))))
Being auto didactic i agree
I made my hammer with a piece of steel tube. Turned down 2 steel endcaps and silver soldered them on then filled the tube with molten lead then drilled and tapped the endcaps to accept a brass and a Delron face. Used a threaded insert into the lead to secure a simple wooden handle. I cannot say that it is the most beautiful tool ever made but it is nicely balanced and very useful.
Just found your channel. Your humor is subtle, and I found myself quietly smiling at jokes like the q-tip joke. Liked and subscribed.
The trick to making good knurls is the circumference of the part to be knurled has to be divisible by the pitch of the knurl. i.e. when the part makes one full turn the teeth on the knurl land in the same spot.
To do this tighten the knurling tool just enough to make a mark on your part and give it a few turns by hand. It will be readily apparent if it's tracking correctly. If it isn't turn a few thousandths off the part and try again. Repeat as necessary.
Once it's tracking correctly then crank up the pressure to make a full knurl and engage your feed.
It's a time consuming way of doing it (there are formulas to calculate the proper diameter but I can't ever remember them) but if you want really good looking knurls it's the way to go.
I’m familiar with that process, yup. I just can’t be bothered.
@@Blondihacks Well then there is the really skeezy way. Crank up the pressure until it cold forms into a knurl.
I'm a budding hobby watchmaker/micro-machinist, and this is the first of your videos I've seen. It's so cool to know there is at least one woman out there who loves machining metal this much and is so amazing at it! I look forward to watching more and learning from your awesomeness!
I was taught with delrin to take the heaviest deepest fastest feed cut possible. Eg. Try a 1/4" or 3/8" cut with heavy feed as a roughing pass, even on a small lathe. The curls end up thick and uniform and instead of wrapping around the work they fall off to the side of the lathe.
I'm all out of dwarvin mythril tool steel anyway. Had to fend off lots of werewolves last year.
The werewolves are way out of hand here too. What a year.
Blondihacks you’re the funniest machinist I’ve ever watched
Blondihacks the channel this old tony has the same 4 jaw chuck
Your voice alone makes watching your videos a joy to watch. I love it! Keep up the awesome work.
Thank you for you inspiration and of course the plans for the shop hammer. I just finished making my own version of the hammer. It has a copper, brass, and delrin hammer head. I screw the spare head onto the handle of the hammer so it is always available.
Super video, I wish I had found your channel before I retired so I could have done some machining projects.
I see that Acetal has about 1/20th the post machining growth of nylon. That stability should make your Delrin
parts a lot more stable. The moisture growth of nylon can be used to advantage in some instances, but that's
another story.
Woaaaaa, you used the TOT time machine maneuver. You finished the handle, then you loaded the Brass for the hammer, found some runout, and did the tappy tap tap with the hammer you were making!
Cool! I Just bought myself a Sherline 4100 lathe (I actually said that on another one of your videos's comments :D) And I had some extra stock and I made on of these today! I obviously made it a lot tinier and metric but it is great! I can use it to tappy tap tap!
tip, if you use black delrin or nylon, it will look new for longer. uncolored plastic picks up and shows dirt and chips much more than black.
True! This is what I had though.
@@Blondihacks .. cant argue with that logic. :-)
I really appreciate the level of detail and precision that you go to in producing such a mundane tool. Thanks for doing what you do.
Watching this now makes me realise just how bloody good my late father was as a production machinist turned teacher. I made my first tappy-tap hammer with a tapered shank and brass and aluminium faced steel head on a Colchester Student around 50 years ago at about age 12.
Then I ended up with a career as a graphic designer. Returning to hobby machining now I’ve done with that work malarkey.
Other trick I've used with acetyl is using a turning tool with a ridiculous back rake like 5-8 degrees (seems to break the string up and shoots it away from work piece) Vacuum looks the go though
I was having trouble parting off, but now I say "Yahtzee" and it works every time! Thanks for the great tip!
That’s the secret!
@@Blondihacks It really should be included in Machinery's Handbook. Thanks for what you do. You are so good at this and at presenting material.
David Dazer I hope you’re including the all important “aaaaaaaand” before
@@emmajacobs5575 indeed, that part is critical. :)
I have nice little jewelers hammer that I use on guitar work, such as setting frets and other small tapery jobs. I made new heads, similar to your techniques to use different materials such as Delrin and aluminium (UK spelling 😉), it came with copper.
Your commentaries are great with good relevant detail, great for beginners and olde greasy Engineers with bad memory, like me.
Thanks for the time you take to do this.
I like the use of machinist hammer when indicating the brass head on the lathe. Love your vids and like you I love, love love those thread checkers on the cable. Ive got SAE and metric. They are great.
I tried Kool Mist in a Noga Mini-cool for CNC milling, and I wasn't impressed. It works well for cooling, but it was...for lack of a better word...squeaky. I ended up switching to soluble oil for milling and whenever I can I run carbide dry at high speed in the lathe. It doesn't always work out. :)
As an apprentice 50 years ago one of the machining projects was to make a similar hammer, I never finished it as I only made the handle, after watching your video I should finish the hammer head :-)
Greetings from Croatia! Excellent work and very eloquent explanations. At first, one may think that such tool is not essential, but tools like this bring magic that makes you enjoy your work.
Great machinist project and when executed well will last forever.Always good to remember how long you have been using a shop made tool and how satisfying it is.
First time viewer. Very nicely done. Very good commentary, and clear instructions.
Great project for me as a beginner. I’ve got the handle done and it actually looks like yours. Yes, I did have to be careful when clean out the “ear canals” but that has been a problem with me over the years. As you can imagine! Just ask my wife for confirmation over the years. God Bless Her! This has been a great first project for someone , like me, that just bought a lathe but knows nothing about one. I love your presentation and I love that you have a heart for women in the trades. I do too. I teach Diesel engines to technicians coming thru the class and it always warms my heart when young ladies come thru my classes. Please don’t focus so much on the ladies as the young men need guiding too!
Nice to see proper ear cleaning techniques on that brass stock, very overlooked.
My 8x16 mini lathe is being delivered tonight! I've been binge-watching your channel for a couple of weeks to get ready. (Last time I used a lathe was a huge and very old Bridgeport in high-school machine shop, circa '72.) You're a truly excellent instructor, and I learn a great deal from every video. Thank you so much for creating this amazing resource on YT.
"Let's take a little ride on the tailstock" You're laughing but the german word for tailstock is actually "Reitstock" whitch litteraly means ride-stock :D
The East German Guy -I spent two years in Germany from 1957, located outside Wegberg. Did a lot of travel across Germany and adjacent countries. Enjoyed most of the places, people, events etc. Maybe Germany, like the UK and other parts of Europe, have lost or have had their unique qualities somewhat diluted over many years, much like Australia has become over the last 50 years, where I have lived since leaving England in ‘68. Love this channel- learn something every time I visit.👍😁🦘
Everytime i was in Germany it always smelled like poop. Why is that?
@@robertreynolds9228 Damn.. I have the same thing with 🏴 England!
@@TobiasHoffmannWup Same here in most European countrys england germany france. Poop and pee smell. Since im from the greatest country there is i rest my case. Although San Francisco, and new york has places that stink but our country is huge so its all good.
@@robertreynolds9228 I live in Germany and rarely smell it. I mean, after a longer heat period, you can smell the sewers, when it's going to rain tomorrow. But that's the same in every country in the world, that has a sewer system. Cheers
I turn alot of PTFE at work and we always use the vacuums to suck up the swarf. Also can get decent chip controll if you have 0 rake and have the tool upside down.
Very nice note about the dangers of plastic strings. They may not look like much, but they still have a breaking strength above that of your fingers! Just helps make the point that, no matter what it is, don't muck around with the chips! At least not while the lathe is in motion!
Lovely one!!!
Made a tiny hammer for my shop some time ago (not as nice or big as yours though).
My first lathe project was a small brass cannon... VERY simplistic, but it was a good start... and a LOT of fun.
After that... well... I got hooked. Lathes (and mills) are addictive - It's just so MUCH fun... :)
Perfectly presented.Please keep on doing whatever is that you do so well. You are hitting right where people (like me) know a bit but not a lot, giving us practical uses for these skills. You are my hero!
I made one of these a few years ago, I used brass tubing for the main "body" of the hammer. I just cut the threads in the tubing and screwed the handle with a bolt through the tubing. I first screwed in the copper bit, filled it with bits of lead, then installed the handle with the screw and heated everything until the lead melted and added more until I had just enough room for the POM (delrin) head left. The lead holds the threads in place and adds some nice weight to the body.
I made mine about twelve years ago! I just made mine out of solid brass! The plastic tips are nice! I have one out of hex brass and then another just bar stock! Great job! Keep up the great work and videos!
Quinn! When you're doing threaded holes on the mill or lathe I've found it best to use a 120 degree spotting drill that's bigger than the threaded major diameter. Trick is to spot the hole so the spot diameter is .03-06" or so larger than the major diameter of the thread. That way when you drill and tap you get a nice chamfer and the 60 deg thread pitch matches the 120 deg spot. It's a really nice way to not raise a bur after threading and keeping the face flat. Love watching your videos!
Good choice to keep the locktite away from the plastic. From experience, working on 787 HUD Projectors, most locktite formulas will dissolve plastics.
Thanks for the video. Even without a mill or a lathe, your channel is satisfying to watch.
After watching three of your videos I am definitely giving you the sub. I love your witty sense of humor and of course the way you explain things so that even someone who is completely new to a task can understand. From what I can see so far you are a wonderful teacher.
When I made a brass hammer I just wedged a piece of dead tree into a chunk of brass which I drilled by eye *shudder*, but this is an entirely different beast 😃. Way to beautiful to hit things with it.
Wow, what a great job you did, both with the tutorial, as well as the camera work!!! Thank you so much for sharing! I watched from start to finish and can't wait to try this project on my lathe! Best regards from South Africa
Quinn, you're the best! I love these little projects - something I didn't get nearly enough of while I was doing my machine shop time. And that was 39 years worth. Keep them coming, young lady!
Hi,quinn, excellent video, a couple of tips which i dont think are mentioned below. To cross drill the hole for the handle, mount the bar across a 4 jaw self centering chuck ,which will guarantee the hole to be in the centre of the diameter of the bar, and you then only need to dti the length of the bar in the centre. To achieve a flat bottomed hole ,use an endmill fitted to your toolpost as a boring bar, to add a flat bottom with a clean internal edge. Well done !
Just on gluing Delrin, it's basically a sod to glue (technical UK expression). The only way to really do it effectively is to paint the mating surfaces with Magic Chemistry Stuff (also technical UK expression) that makes the two surfaces melt together with the assistance of an oven, or heat gun for smaller parts.
Great video! Just the right amount of talking and doing. I learn something every time.
False advertising and disliked, this isnt a Machinists Hammer! This is a Machinists Tappy Tapper!! Haha great work as always Quinn the finish is beautiful!
I’m a newby and have watched a couple of your vids now and am enjoying them. Like everyone who is good at what they do you make it look easy, the hard part is explaining it, you are very good. There is a lathe shaped spot in my shed which needs filling. Jeff
That handle fit into the brass head was just... **chef kiss**
Nice hammer! We featured your video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Thanks for letting us into your process. I have learned a ton from you. I particularly appreciate that you share your mistakes and mishaps and admire your clever recoveries from them. Keep it up!
You can also get a bit further on the depth of a tapped thread with a spiral FLUTE tap. But you probably already know that, this is for the people reading the comments who might not :D
22 minutes and 41 seconds of satisfying. I'm pretty inspired to try to make one myself. Need a knurling tool!
Quinn, to me this tappy tap tap video is one of your best! when I finally get my lathe running I'll give this a shot! and you a daisy for showing how it's done for us noobs.
This is exactly what I have to make for a school project. Now I can see what challenges lies ahead... Thanks so much
Awesome timing on this one Quinn, as I have to build my own hammer as an assignment for my apprenticeship, and I want to make something I’d actually use on the daily. Love your work.
I just can‘t wait to get my new lathe set up and make one by myself.
Found your channel a while back while researching mills. This video convinced me to subscribe. I know very little about machining but want to learn more and possibly embark as a hobbyist. I think your channel will be a big help in doing so.
Love your content, presentation style and sense of humor. The q-tip line made me laugh more than it probably should have.
This is one of the best YT channels around for hobbyist machinists. Way too many beginner videos assume you have a full-sized shop packed to the brim with tooling.
Definitely check out her "Lubricants and Chemicals You Need in a Machine Shop" video.
Thank you for the kind words, and for the sub! 😊
@@dcurry7287
Thanks for the recommendation!
I'm not a machinist but I do fabricate metal parts, mostly for my motorcycle. The original gas tank held 2.9 gallons with the .9 gallon was for the reserve. I put a larger 3.7 gallon tank on my bike and since the original seat wouldn't fit, I made a solo seat. I learned how to heat treat metal on UA-cam, heat treated the rear mounts for the new tank and the hinge for the seat.
Hi Quin, great informative video as usual. Your video's are a pleasure to watch, and you explain everything along the way.
With the 4 jaw chuck, I have made 2 wood handles with square metal ends, when adjusting the chuck, you have a handle in each opposite jaw and turn them together (in opposite ways)
This very quickly gets the work piece in the center, then tighten with the key. Hope I explained that easily.
Regards Shayne....Australia(down under)
When threading copper a number of the forums suggest that you can use milk as a cutting fluid. The concept is the water in the milk cools the part while the butterfat lubricates the threads. It's worth try.
Yikes. Sounds like a smelly mess in a couple of weeks. 😅
Your channel is the best on YT!! The way you explain each process is great. Massive thanks for the video.
"Don't have a mill yet" sounds like a threat, I can't sacrifice my entire kitchen :-D
Lathe in the kitchen? Facing off Parmesan or actual metal chips for dinner?
@@badalloc1 Pasta with WD40, topped with crunchy metal chips.
"HONEY"!! Why does the cake and egg beater have Morse tapers on them? Babe, "I thought I told you we have a new mixer".
I had a 3 stall car garage... had... we all park outside now. >.>
I'm surprised this comment didn't come from Uri Tuchman!
We always made the hammers out of lead . Either from buckshot or recycle yard . very soft metal we melt down and reform many times when i was in machine shop .
7:38
"This is what it does!"
There is a good series on Netflix called "Dark", which involves time travel, and the Bootstrap paradox. The idea of using an object from the future to make said object just reminds me of the series :D
Nice little project. I really enjoy listening to your calming voice.
That's one beautiful hammer! I agree that you could add this great video to your lathe skills series as project #3.
Thanks for another great video! Brilliant trick with the shop vac. :)
The other day I made purely out of pine a hammer of about 2 inch o.d. by 3. 5 inch length with about 5.8 inch by 5 inch length of Redgum timber for the light tappy tap taps on metal items like brass so as not to cause damage. As part the idea of this hammer, if I use it between another metal hammer, it gives the timber buffer and the timber hammer shutters out of the way, the Redgum handle being the size it is, it can break before an injury would really happen.
Thanks Blodihacks! My lathe arrives tomorrow.Since rusty old Atlas lathes around here are still priced higher than gold I got a Chinese 8x16. Curious to see how much I can do with it.
Talk about a great idea to deal with the stringy plastic. Love the vac idea, never would have thought of that
thx sister... got one with Cu/ Brass, works so well on sensitive machine parts....
And I just KNOW that I'm going to shout out "Yatzee" with my first-ever parting. Hope you hear it.
I would recommend a lead head, the weight and softness makes a perfect dead blow hammer. Just make a slightly tapered mold that can hold a brass nut/screw and pre-tin it with regular solder for a good bond.
Quinn, love the videos.
Make yourself a second chuck key for the 4 jaw.
Makes things much easier when you use both together.
Not my original idea, just something I picked up somewhere.
Regards from Dublin
Ruaidhri
Great project, as I always say, there is always room in the tool chest for another "beating instrument". It has also been said that no project in history could have been completed without some version of a hammer. Cheers, I enjoyed this project sublimely!
Great video! I can't wait to get my lathe restoration done so I can try this project. Thanks for these videos, Quinn!
Can we get a video using a milling machine and an octagon shaped hammer for us without a lathe ? Nice work. 100% too nice to hit stuff with. But ok for tappy taps
Ah, another great weekend project! That takes my schedule up to sometime in October 2047... I'll have to stop watching and start making!
It’s long been lost but in ‘72 or ‘73 I made one of these in jr high school metal shop. Steel clam shell head which clamped on the faces, with an aluminum handle pulling the clamshell together.
This looks definitely easier.
I just uploaded a video where I make this from the plans. A lot of fun and I highly recommend it for other beginners to make as a useful tool.
That was really fun to watch! Thanks for the inspired confidence.
Yes, acetal! I once turned a spare rim for a toy car on my proxxon micro mill using it. There's always some acetal plates in the shop
It’s great stuff!
@@Blondihacks I thought it had to be prepared for glueing using some acid. I'd be interested to hear if the LocTite does its job without it 🔨😀
Love your videos!❤️🙌
An old machinist friend of mine said he bought a welder to build his welding cart and bought the lathe and mill to make accessories for the welding cart! 😳🤣
For most hobbyists, machining is for the elite hobbyists. Building parts is cool but paying your bills is cooler!🥶😂
That’s one of the nicest hammers I’ve seen.
nicely done. Suggestion make some flat bottom drills. What I did was buy a cheap drill index and reground all of the drills with flat end at 90 degrees to the Centerline of the drill. A tricky proposition but well worth it.
I made one of these in HS shop class... never been used. We got to design our own handles for it (part of the grade was on print quality), and even though the machining quality is pretty garbage, I never had the heart to use it.
One key difference is the plastic tips are female threaded and joined to the center of the head with all-thread.
It is just to nice to hit things with it.
Can't wait to find the time to make one myself. Thank you for the great inspiration!!!
The first video of yours I saw was you making your soft jaws. I'm glad to see you and copper getting along now.
We’re on speaking terms again, but only copper’s much better-looking cousin C110.
Quin, you make it look so easy. VERY nice job.
found this chanel from ToT. I like your talking through your reasoning rather than just "Cut here"
I noticed you use your hammer to position stock on to parallels. I was taught that the reason we generally use a dead blow hammer is not only to protect what we are "Tappy tap tapping", but also to minimize the rebound of the hammer and therefore the rebound of the material (Newton's third law). Otherwise the material has a tendency to jump and defeat the seating operation.
As someone who machines copper somewhat frequently at work (when modifying resistance welding tips/parts, often made from class 2 (chromium) or class 20 (beryllium) copper)... I concur. It turns and mills nice most of the time, but doesn't die well. I'm pretty sure our supplier single points everything. Although as "bulk produced" as their welding consumables are, perhaps they are die threaded to reduce cycle time? I do know they're CNC lathed and milled for the most part.