I would pin this comment too! Nice one Quinn. Keep up the great work. You’re well on your way to inspiring me to get into machining - from an Aussie electronic engineer :-).
I also really like the Clickspring design, and made a few of my own also using sewing needles as the scriber point. One trick I do, which Chris alludes to: the first part I make is the scriber point, which is cut just a hair over final length (snapped, really) and *then* I use a bench stone to turn the non-pointy end into its own drill, as Chris shows, but where Chris uses the waste end of the needle, I simply use the end which will be installed into the scriber body. Perfect fit, first time every time, at the cost of a very small amount of work with a bench stone and more chip-clearing when drilling.
A good source of solid tungsten is the drills used for PC boards.0.9 mm with a 3mm shank. Large numbers of drills are broken leaving a nice tungsten shank.
Beautiful scribe. I made one using mechanical pencil and 3 mm steel for point that I sharpened on belt sander to a less acute angle to I could retract , so I wouldn't poke holes in my shirt.
"... so I'm going to use the character builder saw, like a chump." had me rolling, what an absolute mood! I literally had to cut some hardboard today with a coping saw because I didn't want to go through all the rigamarole of getting my circular saw out, clearing a table and setting up the cut.
Another great source for a HARD scriber point is the TIG welding tungstens that are too short for welding. Chuck them up in a drill or Dremel tool, and (outside) gently hone in a point against a cutoff disc on an angle grinder (disc down, guard between you and the spinning death blade).
I found an old broken scriber made of aluminium hex stock. Looks like someone had used it as a prybar and had broken the tip off. Your video has given me some inspiration to save the thing and return it to service. Thanks very much, Quinn! Keep up the great videos, love them muchly.
9:20 "so that you don't fall asleep on me" But Quinn, I like your voice. It's nice and calming, and machining genre is my favorite bedtime story. Besides if I fall asleep on your video when I wake up I'll be like, "dang it, watch again then.." Eh? 😁👍
I always find it strange that most people cut on the right hand side of a vice, the left hand does very little and you have to reach round a possible danger zone to catch the offcut/part. Using the left side allows you to hold the free end to stop vibration etc. and especially at the end for the last few strokes, you get a good view of the cut too (for right handed people)
That was good to get back to a simple project. It reminded me of a high school project we made here in Australia from similar sized brass, it was a scalpel blade holder, the brass was drilled out and a steal shaft with a taper on one end with a slot to hold a scalpel blade and the other end was threaded this went through the brass tube and a brass nut at the other end would pull the shaft through causing it to grip tightly on a scalpel blade. We also knurled both the gripping end about the same length as you did and the brass nut was the same diameter and length of the knurled section at gripping end. We also made a pocket clip out of brass with a hole in it so that it would fit over the smaller turned section of the brass nut and would therefore be clamped between the brass nut and the main tube.
Thank you. I am disabled and cannot Ryun a machine safely. I live vicariously through your safety and precision. Your calm narrative is welcome. You are my Saturday grace, however, your health and safety are paramount.Keep up the phenomenal work as possible. Thank you for making my day.
From time to time you mention lathe or mill speeds, but personally I think it would be interesting for you to mention them more often. Absolutely love your channel!
Another material that works fairly well for a scriber tip is an old tig tungsten electrode stub. Or you could just get a new one from a welding supplier.
I couldn't find the needles online so ended up going to a fabric store and I picking some up there. I made a scribe today but used 1018 instead of brass and made it a bit larger in diameter (.410) since my hands don't like to close up very tight from to many years of construction. I knurled the end then took a bit across the top of the knurl and smoothed it down leaving just enough to give it a texture for better grip. I also hollowed out the handle to lighten up the weight then put a hex end on it to help it keep from running off.
You just showed this old dog a new trick. I have been using the tungsten stubs from my tig welder. Lucky I don't lose scribers all the time because normally I would take these to my welding supply for recycling and get a few cents credited to my account. Much cheaper to raid momma's sewing basket.
Good Project.... Order of operation is a subject we all struggle with... Thanks for sharing your "mishap" we all learned from that....! Keep up the good work from your new shop....!
Great! now I have to go buy a lathe... thanks! it's not like my shop has any more room... But it did look like fun and I can use little things like that in my shop.. Carry on Gal. Well done!
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!! (You just mentioned falling asleep, and it's 03/30 here, so falling asleep as soon as the video is over is definitely my goal...)
I love the options for creativity for non-precision parts like that, like you mentioned at the end with the choice between the knurling and the grooves. Personally, something I really like is a knurled grip with maybe one or two groves just for design accents, which I think looks lovely. Very nice beginner project, very utilitarian, and I love your take on it.
Awesome as usueall, I have itching now to build one scriber and maybe make the hole of the hexagon insert deeper and put some spare already cutted needles in there. Thanks for the tutorial.
You could chuck up a small piece of aluminum, drill and tap a hole, thread your knob on then do your ops. A short length of the alu turned down smaller than the pen dia would let you work on the chuck side of the work.
Well done, (as is tradition.) Re: lead angle Have asked lead angle questions of many online, (didn't know correct term until your vid), but have never received an answer. Would love to see you cover it fully in a beginner's vid. You always explain concepts & techniques so plainly & thoroughly. Re: scribers Replacement carbide tips are available through MSC, so I'm sure others have them, as well. (Starrett replacements are WAY expensive, so look for no name imports.) It's funny, I have several store bought scribers, but my fav is made from one end of a broken fiberglass tent rod. It had a round rubber end, which I milled to a hex, plus the rod had the perfect size hole for the tip.
In the interest of shop neatness, when I'm doing just a single cut like at 2:50 I don't even put the saw down; it goes directly back to its home. Or at least I try to remember to do that, despite the "but what if I need it again? Maybe the part is too short and I have to cut it again?" doubts.
In my shop, I always have a small quantity of shellac mixed up, which I use as a glue with heat. I think that might also work as a way to hold in the point, and it also melts with heat, just like the Loctite. Great video, as always, and I'm glad you're getting settled nicely into your new space!
LOL- @14:22, I literally said: "Hey! That's a bad idea." Then you said the same thing and I laughed my butt off. Which triggered the memory of the classic Carla Ulbrich song "What if your butt was gone?"
You can also drill and tap a hole in the knob and connect the knob to the scriber body with a set (grub) screw and locktite. Your way is more "pure", though. No dissimilar metals.
well done mate. I was impressed to see you use a hacksaw the correct way, with your pointer finger extended along the handle. so many people dont and therefore cuts are not straight
Well Quinn, that’s the first job done in your new workshop and may you have many many more successes as time goes by. It is nice to have you back up and running, your other videos did help fill the void but there’s nothing like making chips. Thank you, although I am a trained fitter and turner, I must admit that I do not have a scriber that I like. mine was supplied in my apprenticeship many moons ago and has the normal straight end and a ninety deg bend on the other end. It is way too thin, and I have never liked it, so I am going to make one similar to yours. I never would have thought to use a sewing needle as a point, that part is magic. Thanks for sharing and welcome back.
a piece of tig tungsten works well for the scribe tip (i think its harder than the needle) but it requires grinding... And as an Aussie male myself, "Bloke" is correct for a formal masculine noun, Koala would be the informal, non-binary, noun, for someone you think poorly of, and mate is a formal, non-binary, noun for a friend. 😅
RSVP old scriber. You served Quinn well, and now you can rest in the great workshop in the sky. ... or the bottom of a scrap box, never to be found again.
A tig welding electrode makes a fantastic scribe point-easy to grind and very tough. BTW, I always call in my wife for help finding a lost item, then find it just as she walks into the shop- works every time.
not having any "scrap" brass lying around and gagging over the cost, I bought a length of 0.4 aluminum rod. I DID have some 3/4" aluminum rod lying around and used that to make an 8 point cap to prevent rolling. I can file 8 flats a lot easier and accurately that 6....(:> Speaking of scrap, I was at a local boat ramp and ran into a guy tasked with hauling out derelict boats and he let me strip out a prop shaft from one of the hulls. I now own a 3-1/2 ft long piece of what I think is 630 stainless steel . What I will ever do with it with on a 7x16" lathe I don't know, but I'll have the material(worth about $250 best I can tell)!
Excellent beginner project. and like you say, a tad longer to fit you hand. and like yourself I like the additional length and the larger diameter as well.
Nice to see you making chips in your new home. I like that design. In use the needle should not bend or break but a fall on a hard floor might break it so making it removable is good. If you ever need a heavy needle you can look at sailmakers needles the only drawback is one section of the needle is triangular shaped but the middle is round.
To use small drills make a bracket to hold your Dremel on your tool post .A nice strong holder possible a permanent fixture Then you can spin drill at appropriate speed .
Very nice build and instruction, as usual. I hope the new shop suits you. I have found that using left over needle bearing pins (from working on outboard motors) serve very well for scribe points an replaceable points for my automatic center punches, depending on how you grind them. They also tend to fit a standard 2mm drafting pencil rather well. I may however need to make the dedicated Brass Scriber just because its cool. Best of luck in the new digs.
This is something that I actually have both the skills and the tools to now make. I don't currently have the brass, but will give this a go once I remedy that. (It also gives me an excuse tor replace my as-cheap-as-the-make-them knurling tool.) Thanks!
May I be so bold as to ask why you didn't leave the hole undersize and heat the body to insert the needle? Once it had cooled down the needle would be held tight (or so I assume). Love your work and thanks for all the knowledge you've imparted over the years.
One of our cats is very good at jumping up onto a barstool in just such a way that it will rotate around (just enough!) and she'll end up facing out the sliding door the stool is next to.
I was thinking you could mill a small flat spot all the way down on the side of the scriber and use the DRO to put in markings for a ruler. Could probably come in really handy, especially if you figure out a way to calibrate it to the tip of the needle
The sewing needles are interesting. I will remember on the next scriber I make. The last scriber I made I used a masonry nail. They are also very hard. I always enjoy your videos.
So far I have made one scribe myself. (I also have one that I purchased decades ago. Both carbide and diamond tips way too "fat".) What I have used in my DIY scribe was a piece of TIG welding tungsten electrode. But recently I realized that I CAN grind carbide! The diamond grinding disks sold for Dremel are cheap and work quite adequately. Maybe I try that next time I need to scribe more than a token length of line on a glass fiber/epoxy PCB.
Wow. I've had that same Starrett scribe in my toolbox for years. I never really paid attention to it I thought it was a pin vise but now I know it's a scribe minus the pointy bit.
You can still buy new grammophone/phonograph needles: these make great scriber needles, too, plus, there is no eyelet you have to cut off. They come in a variety of thicknesses from 0.8 mm to 1.8 mm diameter, depending how loud they are supposed to play (the stiffer the needle, and the bigger the diameter, the louder they play).
Years ago I made a carbide scriber that fit inside a ballpoint pen housing. I just copied the geometry of the ink cartridge and ground the carbide blank (broken endmill) to match. I liked it so much I made a second one using high speed steel in the same manner.
Love your work mate :)
Aww thanks! You inspired me to get into this in the first place 😁
praise of giants, bravo quinn, bravo :)
Maaaaate !
I would pin this comment too! Nice one Quinn. Keep up the great work. You’re well on your way to inspiring me to get into machining - from an Aussie electronic engineer :-).
@@Blondihacks yeah awesome work buddy, i would have done it completely the same way if i wouldnt own a six axis cnc lol. take care, bye!
Seeing that you feel that the Starett scriber is smaller than you like. Would you now call it a "subscriber"?😉
😆 I see what you did there!
Interesting point.
very clever i love it!
Did your dad tell you to say that...
I kept waiting for this joke or similar. Glad I found it here at least
Quinn is so thorough and detail-oriented that she even spin-balances her Sprockets.
Yes, cat and slave having fun right up to the point where the cat vomits.
Bonus points for those drilling out the hole in the back to allow for storing some spare needles
I also really like the Clickspring design, and made a few of my own also using sewing needles as the scriber point. One trick I do, which Chris alludes to: the first part I make is the scriber point, which is cut just a hair over final length (snapped, really) and *then* I use a bench stone to turn the non-pointy end into its own drill, as Chris shows, but where Chris uses the waste end of the needle, I simply use the end which will be installed into the scriber body. Perfect fit, first time every time, at the cost of a very small amount of work with a bench stone and more chip-clearing when drilling.
A good source of solid tungsten is the drills used for PC boards.0.9 mm with a 3mm shank. Large numbers of drills are broken leaving a nice tungsten shank.
Beautiful scribe. I made one using mechanical pencil and 3 mm steel for point that I sharpened on belt sander to a less acute angle to I could retract , so I wouldn't poke holes in my shirt.
Quinn. Quinn. Holy crow, m8.
You forgot the most important thing:
DOES IT APRON?!?!
"... so I'm going to use the character builder saw, like a chump." had me rolling, what an absolute mood! I literally had to cut some hardboard today with a coping saw because I didn't want to go through all the rigamarole of getting my circular saw out, clearing a table and setting up the cut.
Another great source for a HARD scriber point is the TIG welding tungstens that are too short for welding. Chuck them up in a drill or Dremel tool, and (outside) gently hone in a point against a cutoff disc on an angle grinder (disc down, guard between you and the spinning death blade).
I found an old broken scriber made of aluminium hex stock. Looks like someone had used it as a prybar and had broken the tip off. Your video has given me some inspiration to save the thing and return it to service. Thanks very much, Quinn! Keep up the great videos, love them muchly.
9:20 "so that you don't fall asleep on me"
But Quinn, I like your voice. It's nice and calming, and machining genre is my favorite bedtime story. Besides if I fall asleep on your video when I wake up I'll be like, "dang it, watch again then.."
Eh? 😁👍
Thank you for doing a complete thru cut with the character-building saw. My old metal shop teacher years and years ago drove that into my head.
I always find it strange that most people cut on the right hand side of a vice, the left hand does very little and you have to reach round a possible danger zone to catch the offcut/part. Using the left side allows you to hold the free end to stop vibration etc. and especially at the end for the last few strokes, you get a good view of the cut too (for right handed people)
@@incubatork Good point! The force (of habit) is strong with this one (a.k.a. me)... I will immediately start cutting on the left side of the vice!
Nice project. I really like your, calming H.R., voice overs
That was good to get back to a simple project. It reminded me of a high school project we made here in Australia from similar sized brass, it was a scalpel blade holder, the brass was drilled out and a steal shaft with a taper on one end with a slot to hold a scalpel blade and the other end was threaded this went through the brass tube and a brass nut at the other end would pull the shaft through causing it to grip tightly on a scalpel blade. We also knurled both the gripping end about the same length as you did and the brass nut was the same diameter and length of the knurled section at gripping end. We also made a pocket clip out of brass with a hole in it so that it would fit over the smaller turned section of the brass nut and would therefore be clamped between the brass nut and the main tube.
Thank you. I am disabled and cannot Ryun a machine safely. I live vicariously through your safety and precision. Your calm narrative is welcome. You are my Saturday grace, however, your health and safety are paramount.Keep up the phenomenal work as possible. Thank you for making my day.
So great the way you use every mishap as a "teachable moment," instead of editing it out. Integrity always shines through.
If anyone is curious those TUL pens are amazing. I highly, highly recommend them.Some of the best writing pens I have ever used.
It's no Pilot G-2, but it's a pretty nice pen.
Zebra F701 is my go-to.
From time to time you mention lathe or mill speeds, but personally I think it would be interesting for you to mention them more often. Absolutely love your channel!
If you drill your threaded hole deeper you could store a replacement scribe. Thank you for your time and knowledge. Love all your videos.
Another material that works fairly well for a scriber tip is an old tig tungsten electrode stub. Or you could just get a new one from a welding supplier.
If you have a pocket in your apron that's sized for a pen you can jam a piece of foam or whatever in there and have it be a dedicated scribe pocket.
I couldn't find the needles online so ended up going to a fabric store and I picking some up there. I made a scribe today but used 1018 instead of brass and made it a bit larger in diameter (.410) since my hands don't like to close up very tight from to many years of construction. I knurled the end then took a bit across the top of the knurl and smoothed it down leaving just enough to give it a texture for better grip. I also hollowed out the handle to lighten up the weight then put a hex end on it to help it keep from running off.
Chris is a smart bloke
Chris is a clever bugger
Chris is a good operator
All Australian compliments acceptable for use in mixed company.
so glad you are back. miss your re bandana, spinning machines, and loose hair don't mix
You just showed this old dog a new trick. I have been using the tungsten stubs from my tig welder. Lucky I don't lose scribers all the time because normally I would take these to my welding supply for recycling and get a few cents credited to my account. Much cheaper to raid momma's sewing basket.
You can also use sharpened tungsten tig electrodes as the scribe bit.
Good Project.... Order of operation is a subject we all struggle with... Thanks for sharing your "mishap" we all learned from that....! Keep up the good work from your new shop....!
11:40. That click into the tap center was satisfying. 😌
Great! now I have to go buy a lathe... thanks! it's not like my shop has any more room... But it did look like fun and I can use little things like that in my shop.. Carry on Gal. Well done!
I save broken 1/8" endmills, they make great scribe points once you sharpen them.
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!! (You just mentioned falling asleep, and it's 03/30 here, so falling asleep as soon as the video is over is definitely my goal...)
Il mondo è bello perché ci sono persone come te! Un saluto da Firenze
I love the options for creativity for non-precision parts like that, like you mentioned at the end with the choice between the knurling and the grooves. Personally, something I really like is a knurled grip with maybe one or two groves just for design accents, which I think looks lovely. Very nice beginner project, very utilitarian, and I love your take on it.
Clickspring reference and, although probably unintentional, a "my mechanics" reference in the same video. Doesn't get any better than that!
Great project for breaking in the new workshop! Glad to see its up and running 🎉
Awesome as usueall, I have itching now to build one scriber and maybe make the hole of the hexagon insert deeper and put some spare already cutted needles in there. Thanks for the tutorial.
What a great idea, using your favorite ball point pen as a model for the length!
You could chuck up a small piece of aluminum, drill and tap a hole, thread your knob on then do your ops.
A short length of the alu turned down smaller than the pen dia would let you work on the chuck side of the work.
"Bloke" was just right. Thankyou for the vid as this one I feel confident in trying.
Well done, (as is tradition.)
Re: lead angle
Have asked lead angle questions of many online, (didn't know correct term until your vid), but have never received an answer.
Would love to see you cover it fully in a beginner's vid. You always explain concepts & techniques so plainly & thoroughly.
Re: scribers
Replacement carbide tips are available through MSC, so I'm sure others have them, as well. (Starrett replacements are WAY expensive, so look for no name imports.)
It's funny, I have several store bought scribers, but my fav is made from one end of a broken fiberglass tent rod. It had a round rubber end, which I milled to a hex, plus the rod had the perfect size hole for the tip.
In the interest of shop neatness, when I'm doing just a single cut like at 2:50 I don't even put the saw down; it goes directly back to its home. Or at least I try to remember to do that, despite the "but what if I need it again? Maybe the part is too short and I have to cut it again?" doubts.
In my shop, I always have a small quantity of shellac mixed up, which I use as a glue with heat. I think that might also work as a way to hold in the point, and it also melts with heat, just like the Loctite. Great video, as always, and I'm glad you're getting settled nicely into your new space!
LOL- @14:22, I literally said: "Hey! That's a bad idea."
Then you said the same thing and I laughed my butt off.
Which triggered the memory of the classic Carla Ulbrich song "What if your butt was gone?"
Brilliant! I didn't know the hardness of these needles..
You nailed the Aussie vernacular mate!
You can also drill and tap a hole in the knob and connect the knob to the scriber body with a set (grub) screw and locktite. Your way is more "pure", though. No dissimilar metals.
well done mate. I was impressed to see you use a hacksaw the correct way, with your pointer finger extended along the handle. so many people dont and therefore cuts are not straight
Well Quinn, that’s the first job done in your new workshop and may you have many many more successes as time goes by. It is nice to have you back up and running, your other videos did help fill the void but there’s nothing like making chips. Thank you, although I am a trained fitter and turner, I must admit that I do not have a scriber that I like. mine was supplied in my apprenticeship many moons ago and has the normal straight end and a ninety deg bend on the other end. It is way too thin, and I have never liked it, so I am going to make one similar to yours. I never would have thought to use a sewing needle as a point, that part is magic. Thanks for sharing and welcome back.
Heck yes. Happy to see you christen your new shop and doubly happy to see Sprocket again.🐈
Great new scribe Quinn. I think this will be one of my first projects on my new lathe.
Thanks for sharing.
Great first project for the new shop…… ‘mate’
👏👏
Robert
( Australia)
You’ve got the new space looking nice.
Very enjoyable watching you work and being not serious at times, have to unbury my two metal lathes and try one.
Aaaaand first new shop Yahtzee! Congrats Quinn, enjoy the new shop! Looks great!
a piece of tig tungsten works well for the scribe tip (i think its harder than the needle) but it requires grinding... And as an Aussie male myself, "Bloke" is correct for a formal masculine noun, Koala would be the informal, non-binary, noun, for someone you think poorly of, and mate is a formal, non-binary, noun for a friend. 😅
A 2mm mechanical pencil will hold a 2mm tungsten electrode.
When I studied metal engineering at school one of the projects was a centre punch. We used a masonry nail for the tip on that one
RSVP old scriber. You served Quinn well, and now you can rest in the great workshop in the sky.
... or the bottom of a scrap box, never to be found again.
I laughed out loud at "character builder saw". What an apt name!
This will be my first project on my southbend 10k when I finish restoring it in the next few weeks. Thank you!
Bloke is good... I reckon that will be a good first job on my lathe when I get it levelled in its correct location. Cheers from Oz.
A tig welding electrode makes a fantastic scribe point-easy to grind and very tough. BTW, I always call in my wife for help finding a lost item, then find it just as she walks into the shop- works every time.
Glad to have you back !
Beautiful shop, very happy for you.
Nice work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
You should check out making you a sliding chuck for your tail stock. Makes drilling with small drill bits a breeze. This was a fun video thank!
Thank you for doing this beginner project. Please more for us.n Congrats on the new shop.
Bloke was correct 👏 on ya mate. Great video.
Nice job Quinn. Love the idea with the needle. How's the new shop, must be nice to get back to normal.....Regards Kevin
not having any "scrap" brass lying around and gagging over the cost, I bought a length of 0.4 aluminum rod. I DID have some 3/4" aluminum rod lying around and used that to make an 8 point cap to prevent rolling. I can file 8 flats a lot easier and accurately that 6....(:> Speaking of scrap, I was at a local boat ramp and ran into a guy tasked with hauling out derelict boats and he let me strip out a prop shaft from one of the hulls. I now own a 3-1/2 ft long piece of what I think is 630 stainless steel . What I will ever do with it with on a 7x16" lathe I don't know, but I'll have the material(worth about $250 best I can tell)!
Nice little quick project. The lost one is probably with the 10mm socket.
Excellent beginner project. and like you say, a tad longer to fit you hand. and like yourself I like the additional length and the larger diameter as well.
With my "luck", once I replace anything missing I would now find what was missing, often in an obvious spot! Great job!
Nothing like enjoying the second pot of coffee to Miss Quinn doing her thing in the new place.
"My the swarf be with you" 😆
Wishing you good vibes in the new shop Quinn !
Nice to see you making chips in your new home. I like that design. In use the needle should not bend or break but a fall on a hard floor might break it so making it removable is good. If you ever need a heavy needle you can look at sailmakers needles the only drawback is one section of the needle is triangular shaped but the middle is round.
To use small drills make a bracket to hold your Dremel on your tool post .A nice strong holder possible a permanent fixture Then you can spin drill at appropriate speed .
Character-building saw. I like that. I'm going to keep it.
I've been using a tungsten tip out of a tig torch, best scriber I've used tbh lol
Very nice build and instruction, as usual. I hope the new shop suits you. I have found that using left over needle bearing pins (from working on outboard motors) serve very well for scribe points an replaceable points for my automatic center punches, depending on how you grind them. They also tend to fit a standard 2mm drafting pencil rather well. I may however need to make the dedicated Brass Scriber just because its cool. Best of luck in the new digs.
Thank you! This was just what i was looking for, dont hav a lathe, but i need a scribe! Yours look great!
This is something that I actually have both the skills and the tools to now make. I don't currently have the brass, but will give this a go once I remedy that. (It also gives me an excuse tor replace my as-cheap-as-the-make-them knurling tool.) Thanks!
Great looking Scriber.
Congratulations on your new shop turning inauguration!
Ayyyy love the Telus spark hat! My go to weekend stop for my son to learn and run around at the same time!
G'day, great project, being a learner myself, I think I will make one myself, thanks for sharing 👍
May I be so bold as to ask why you didn't leave the hole undersize and heat the body to insert the needle? Once it had cooled down the needle would be held tight (or so I assume). Love your work and thanks for all the knowledge you've imparted over the years.
The echo in your new shop gives us a sense that you have way more space than you used to :) Congrats on the new space!
One of our cats is very good at jumping up onto a barstool in just such a way that it will rotate around (just enough!) and she'll end up facing out the sliding door the stool is next to.
I was thinking you could mill a small flat spot all the way down on the side of the scriber and use the DRO to put in markings for a ruler. Could probably come in really handy, especially if you figure out a way to calibrate it to the tip of the needle
The sewing needles are interesting. I will remember on the next scriber I make. The last scriber I made I used a masonry nail. They are also very hard. I always enjoy your videos.
As an Australian, "clever bloke" is spot on.
If you want a less modern, bushy style, you could say "he's a clever fellah" (fellow).
So far I have made one scribe myself. (I also have one that I purchased decades ago. Both carbide and diamond tips way too "fat".) What I have used in my DIY scribe was a piece of TIG welding tungsten electrode. But recently I realized that I CAN grind carbide! The diamond grinding disks sold for Dremel are cheap and work quite adequately. Maybe I try that next time I need to scribe more than a token length of line on a glass fiber/epoxy PCB.
Spun up a beautiful Scriber and spun out the cat, too funny Quinn !
Very nice project, glad your back to making videos. Thank you.
Love the work and I always find that your videos are super educational! Keep up the great work!
Good job. Just watched the Morse taper episode and was wondering why you didn't get to the inside taper cutting/ boring.
Wow. I've had that same Starrett scribe in my toolbox for years. I never really paid attention to it I thought it was a pin vise but now I know it's a scribe minus the pointy bit.
You can still buy new grammophone/phonograph needles: these make great scriber needles, too, plus, there is no eyelet you have to cut off.
They come in a variety of thicknesses from 0.8 mm to 1.8 mm diameter, depending how loud they are supposed to play (the stiffer the needle, and the bigger the diameter, the louder they play).
A bit of car wax on the brass will keep it shiny longer. It's renewable as well for those to who it might be important.
Years ago I made a carbide scriber that fit inside a ballpoint pen housing. I just copied the geometry of the ink cartridge and ground the carbide blank (broken endmill) to match. I liked it so much I made a second one using high speed steel in the same manner.