Seen lots of machining videos but comment on few myself. (retired machinist here) Your presentation style is "top shelf" so I must break my tradition and comment here. I'm compelled to add to the chorus of praise for your quality video and delivery style. I'm one very impressed old guy and that's not easy to do. ( the grandkids call me "Grumps" but I blame their parents for that lol)
OK, Quinn, I'm only ten minutes into this video, and you already have me as a subscriber. You are the Da Gal for density of information, dryness of wit, and speaking my language. Looking forward to viewing the rest of your offerings!
This is a great tool. You’ve done a super job here and it’s so cool how you narrate when things go right and sometimes not so right. We all know there are always little surprises that come along to test us.Its nonsense to pretend it’s always perfect. You rock.
Being new to machining, the best part of watching these is that you find tools you didn't know you needed! Now that I know what a tap follower is, I certainly need one! I don't have a lathe so I guess I have to resort to buying one. ;-)
You put on a good show. Easy to listen to. Like your informality and "easy words" You have good hands for these demos and a good presentation voice. Thanks for a job well done.
Excellent little project Quinn. The one criticism I make is with indicating the part whilst using the steady rest. If the steady rest is deflecting the part, say towards the tool, as the part rotates it gets deflected an equal amount so the indicator reads the same.
Wow! I had no idea what a tap follower was, and don't know why I clicked the video. BUT, I find this one of the better instruction videos I have ever seen. Pleasent voice, excellent filming, excellent editing and commentary (including humour), (luckily no music), excellent design and skilled execution. Kudus for also including errors and remedy. I am now a fan.
Blondihacks somehow I know that feeling 🤭. Even though I’m in my mid seventies I still like to watch how others do things, you’re never to old to learn 🤗🤓
I run OD grinders in a job shop for a living. You are correct on centers. The expensive centers don't stay that good for long. After using them for a bit, they develop runout. On our grinders at work we use dead centers whenever possible. We have a collection of live centers that we use where tolerance isn't as critical then we keep one in a wooden box as clean as we can and only use it on critical stuff where concentritty is important.
After doing years of manual machining I still enjoy watching clips like this. It is nice to see good workmanship in use and I suppose it also makes me appreciate the CNC conversion a little more too.
Hi Quinn, Very helpful video. Need to make me two of those tap followers. Will do it this week. Regarding the accuracy of your live center. You can dismantle it (very easy to do) and check where the play comes from. If it is between the center shaft and bearing there is nothing economical that you can do to fix it. However if it is dew to excessive clearance in the bearings you can replace them. it will have a needle bearing deep inside a thrust bearing and a ball bearing in front. Replace them with a zero clearance bearing. most cheap everyday bearings have a C3 clearance. This should solve your problem without having to spend a lot of money on a new center. I would start with just replacing the ball bearing first.
Cool! Love seeing how tools are made rather than just bought. Gives more understanding of how they work and why they are made the way they are. Nice work!
I have always put a tap in a drill press and turned the chuck by hand first and then used the chuck key handle to turn the chuck. I learned something new today. Thanks!
Excellent project and tutorial. Tip! If hardening thin or slim items, then ensure the item is held vertically along the long axis when quenching. Hope this helps. Thanks for sharing.
@@Blondihacks Thanks for replying, for intricate components, stress relieving prior to heat treatment is highly recommended, but a simple pin shouldn't need it. Enjoying the vlogs.
After watching this video I also made a tap follower. The main difference in mine was the use of a 3/8-16 set screw on the end instead of a threaded cap. Now I have two. One with a point and a smaller one with a center hole. They cover both large and small taps. Thanks for the interesting video.
I stumbled onto this vid out of algorithms and curiosity and I have to say I am super impressed with the quality and quantity of info (and the humour!). I have little to no experience with machining, up until 23 minutes ago! Great work and no hesitation in subscribing and clicking the bell. I look forward to watching your back catalogue and future vids. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 10/10
I love the level of detail and explanation provided in this video. Never thought there was so much to learn about such a simple tool. Well done and thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Im a fan of This Old Tony and other machinists like yourself, but have never had a budget that enabled me to actually acquire said machine tools. So this is a bit of overkill for my requirements or capablility. I am happy to be made aware of the "tap follower", I always just used a chunk of broke drill bit as a tap guide. I guess I'll have to try to figure out how to make a similar tool out of stock materials.
Wow Quinn, I was going to congratulate you on hitting 30,000 subscribers, and lo and behold, you're already at 30.1 K! Looks like folks are realizing what an exceptionally great site this is.
I do enjoy your video’s , you have done your research and you give an exceptional presentation . As Alton Brown is to cooking shows, you are to these video’s . Not only do I get excellent tips from watching you work, but I have learned that “Chowder” means bad, “Yahtzee” means good ,and “Bob’s your uncle” means finished. I am looking forward to getting more great tips, and learning new synonyms in future videos.
Well blow be down. All these years of using taps and dies and I never realised that about the end of taps. I've used taps in a drill press to get them vertical but it's a bit of a faff, I also use a chuck if I'm tapping on the lathe. I shall make one of these. I'm also subscribing because I really enjoyed this video. Precise concise and no booming music. Top Marks, thank you.
Interesting tip on combining springs. At 9:28 on Joe Pieczynski's "Sequence is Everything for Small Parts" he talks about using different strength springs depending on tap size, so combining springs like you do kind've works for that because you can decombine them and just use one for smaller tap sizes.
A related suggestion. Drill a series of clearance holes for various tap sizes into a 1 1/4 steel block. When starting to tap a hole, feed the tap through the blcck until a few threads are formed. This will start the tap to within a degree of straight. I made one to mount boxes to machinery 40 years ago and still use it. Straight taps when laying on you back under a machine. And , good for bench work.
I was wondering how a drill press is used to get a tap to track perfectly straight, and now I know. Nice to see someone at your level take the time to re-think how something is made and re-do the job to make it better. The Brownell's Ospho-Blue is excellent stuff. I used it to do some bluing on a couple of small projects and the results look like what comes from the factory.
I may have got this wrong but I think metric reamers are designed to cut slightly over size - partly to allow for wear of course. Precision ground metric silver steel (drill rod) is I think deliberately ground very slightly under size so it will turn in a reamed hole. The tolerances are plus something minus zero for reamers and the other way round for drill rod. I do not know if this is true for US measurements or not but if it is then selecting appropriate reamers and drill rod would possibly eliminate one turning operation. Just a thought, rather depends on what is in stock! BobUK.
Nice demonstration of a worthwhile project as usual and it’s good to see your skills improving. I don’t know if you have discovered it yet but if you put oil on mechanical parts it will actually takeaway unwanted slop, especially in plain bearings.
I can't find a supplier of Oxpho Blue in the UK, which is sad because it appears to give excellent results. Thanks for the videos ... good clarity of voice, video, lighting and editing ... content well thought out and just what's needed for relative beginners. BTW, the person who never made a mistake, never made anything ! :)
Birchwood-Casey Superblue is used by some restorers I watch that are based in Europe (TysyTube and my mechanics). Maybe that would be available to you?
@@richardmeyer418 Finding a supplier in a non US country isn't limited by air travel. When a supplier imports things to sell, it's usually done by boat. It's probably more of a situation that Brownells is in the US, and the UK has their own cold bluing solution that they sell.
You are genuinely inspirational!!! I feel like I have learned more practical, real world tips and tricks in your twenty minute video here than I have over five years of watching other YT machinists and toolmakers. The colour of that blue finish is _lovely_ as well! Coming from Brownells was it originally intended for a Gunsmith's workshop perhaps?
Interesting varation on another one I saw and made. What he did was to bore and ream about a 3" inch deep hole in 1/2" stock (body), then mill a 1" slot into the side about 2/3 the way from the closed end. The tap extender ram turned to a point and sized for a close fit into the body. With the center inside the body and the pointed end extended as one wants a hole is drilled and tapped into the center at the mid point of the slot. A spring is then placed into the body, the center inserted and a screw, set screw, etc. is installed in the drilled and tapped hole. Thus, a different version of hte tap follower. I ended up making a spring as well which is another project in itself - also I could find nothing around the shop I liked. The 1" trave. (could be more) allows for enough movement for a good tap start. Nothing is critical except the center to body fit.
Thanks for the much improved tap follower design. For best accuracy steady-rests should always be adjusted on a true diameter close to the chuck, then moved out to the working position. If done this way the accessory will be true to the center line of the lathe.
At 22:25 you made me remember one guy doing a review of cold bluing products and he didn’t pre test it to the real video, then he was talking to the camera and explaining what he was doing when a very natural “HOLY CRAP!!!” came out when the product worked wonders, as yours did, and it was super funny! His expression was priceless and unforgettable! Great video!
Nice work! This seems like a pretty good project to start with when I get a lathe. I won't get the precision or finish you do but the tool itself is easy to understand and it involves a number of different operations on the lathe.
Love the content! Being an old school mainframe programmer, your binary joke made me laugh. Naturally, as timing would have it, I was right in the middle of a sip of coffee. My screen needed a good cleaning anyway!
Havn't used a die nut for thirty years. When you screw cut a lot on a conventional lathe it is so much faster, perfectly concentric and the finish is superb. You also get a better fitting threads and when you screw cut confidently, you don't have to buy a new dienut every time you need a different thread. When I male slender parts, say an M8 thread on the end of something, I leave a bit extra on the length and turn down just below the root dia, say 6.5mm and use my centre. Eleminitates spring, gives space for the lead screw nut engagement and more importantly, takes up the minor end float in the spindle. When Im done I simply cut off with a cutting of disc in the disc grinder with the lathe going and of course with the centre out of the way.
@@Blondihacks I do have that luxury but I did my training as we crossed over from mainly imperial pitches to mainly metric. The old flat bed lathes being imperial required gear changes and we just had a wee book. Did not have the luxury of changable tips, almost no carbide and these were used mainly on manganese work hardening sheaves and we brazed these on ourselves. We would be constantly getting ready for the next job, figuring it out, grinding up tools or drills while a cut was advancing in the lathe. Actual lathe engine time was longer but today people sit and watch instead of being productive. Today people mess about with carbide tooling and take lots of cuts(not the cnc guys) when in our day the lathe would run at a much slower speed, at the lower end of surface speed and we took deep, high feed cuts with qood quality high speed steel. You would be amazed how much material you can remove with a powerful lathe with a speed of 2 rpm. So yes I am spoilt but starting off I made thousands of shackel pins by hand. Hundreds of double start well pipes both internal and external with a flat square form and tapered to boot all without taper turning options. I was offering a bit of advice but that seems to have been missed.
Oddly Satisfying indeed! Thank you very much for this Ms Blondi. I like the way you point out the range of run-out specs on the live centres. And the potential effect on the accuracy of the work. And the staggering $$s one has to pay for the really right stuff. For my home shop I just stay away from bottom-of-the-barrel prices and the poor stuff you generally find there.
You went directly to the point on this one ! At least you pointed out the flaws in your pointed pointer , being precise on this point is perfect ! Perhaps I should have just Gotten to the point right a way ! Lol
My parting goes so poorly, so often. I frequently reverse the lathe and grab my bandsaw. Luckily, I have seensome improvement with my newest parting tool holder build.. nice stuff Quinn
very nice job, love the videos. i did think about making one of these, but for the price to buy one isn't that dear at all. and its one less project to make, when you have so many to do already.. but i did love the idea of doing the reverse end for the small taps. so i took mine apart to do the same thing, but other then getting a tiny spot on the end with a centre drill i can make it any deeper. guess they hardened the inner shaft :(
I bought an extended nose live center so I could get closer to small parts, Cheap Chinese. Way to much runout to be of any value. I now use a half dead center. When using a tap always remember to tilt the glass so you don't get too much foam. Thanks for the video. My Chinese tap follower does the hula, I'll see if I can get one to come out as well as yours did.
Awesome job, as always, Quinn. I really need to make one of these. Question: Would it make a difference in the runout of the live center if you measured it loaded as in normal use, rather than hanging out in space?
@@Blondihacks Also, a drill chuck mounted to a tool holder for your QCTP is a good way to drill deep holes like that, when you lack tailstock quill travel. I have a similar (but smaller) import wedge-type tool post on my 7x10 lathe, and among the included holders is one with a Morse taper 2 socket. P/N is 250-005 for my 0XA-size tool post, -105 for AXA, -205 for BXA, etc. It's fiddly to get the drill bit dead on center (I use a dowel pin clamped in the chuck to indicate against), but it allows faster peck-drilling/chip clearing, and also allows for drilling to a precise depth using a dial indicator or a DRO.
@Blondihacks Re: Time stamp 6:28 I find that clocking shafts with the three point steady in play like this tends to make the clock tell lies. The shaft can't really run out if the steady is supporting on the same surface that the clock is running on. The clock will read nice and steady in relation to the bed even if the steady is holding the shaft off from the machine center-line... I once accidentally turned a tapered bore into a part in this way because I didn't notice the small amount by which the shaft was getting "worked" where the chuck jaws held it. If possible I like to set up my three point steady with the tail stock holding the part on the lathe center line and then remove the tail stock/center once the three point is all locked down. Doing it this way also makes it easier to touch the steady points onto the shaft with just the right amount of force so as to not squish thin walls. Re: 12:53 I dunno, I tend to do the same thing more often than I should, but I've taken to momentarily dropping the feed engagement lever out and stopping the tool at the line for a few RPM's before re-engaging. It leaves a surprisingly visible mark where the line was on the new surface for latter reference. Edited cause I'm being clear as mud again...
I need to make a "negative centre" for those small taps. I did make mine with the screw at the back - not really some clever thinking on my behalf, just pure coincidence of how I figured I could make it. But first I need to fix the power to my lathe. I broke the three-phase inverter that feeds my lathe with three-phase in my single-phase garage - a small chip must have fallen down into the electrical parts when I hammered in some clips for the wiring for my mill, and when I turned the power on for the lathe, "flash / bang and then power gone...". Found the culprit, but the amount of smoke and burnt bits on the PCB told me to order a new one. Will try to build some sort of roof/cover for it, so that chips that make it up to the inverter will fall off to the side rather than sit on top of the inverter...
For future mechanisms, if you make the length of the larger diameter of the pin (that mates with the bore of the body) as long as feasible, you'll control the lateral play in that without needing to match the concentricity of the bore the pin exits from - that can be clearance.
When you succeed at making such a beautiful tool I seem to recall there is some kind traditional celebratory dance. Now what was that again? Think, think, think... well anyway, job well done. Love your work!
I like a little more spring pressure on a tap follower. In my opinion, the initial force of the spring is what makes the threads straight. After 4-5 turns, the tap will continue to be straight, and you can remove the follower. Maybe I was was misreading the spring tension in the video.
I bought a tap follower with a pointy end. After this, I went back and looked if there was the other end. After disassembly, there was! Of course there were no included instructions even at the site I bought it from.
Really nice, and surely an upgrade over the previous one. Is there a particular reason to use threaded cap on the outside instead of a large grub screw on the inside, that way the shaft remains concentric over it's whole length and you can also alter the spring tension. (although you would probably need to use some loctite to keep it from moving)
BONUS points for the binary price! You never always seem to amaze me. Quinn, that is GREAT! (Anyone who says your videos are not good, sorry!) (Oh, remind me not to watch these late at night. I almost did a "spit-take" on my new monitor.) steve
When turning very small diameter stock, use a small chuck from a discarded hand held electric drill. They generally have 3/8 through hole and are REALLY ACCURATE when placed in the normal lathe chuck. Try it, you'll like it.
Love your voice, very clear and easy to understand with no crazy music. Nice Job!
Seen lots of machining videos but comment on few myself. (retired machinist here)
Your presentation style is "top shelf" so I must break my tradition and comment here. I'm compelled to add to the chorus of praise for your quality video and delivery style. I'm one very impressed old guy and that's not easy to do. ( the grandkids call me "Grumps" but I blame their parents for that lol)
Thank you! It’s the highest praise when real machinists like my videos. 😀
I love that u admitted you are human by misreading the print, we all have done that. Keep up the great work and content.
OK, Quinn, I'm only ten minutes into this video, and you already have me as a subscriber. You are the Da Gal for density of information, dryness of wit, and speaking my language. Looking forward to viewing the rest of your offerings!
Awesome, thank you for the kind words and for subscribing! ☺️
This is a great tool. You’ve done a super job here and it’s so cool how you narrate when things go right and sometimes not so right. We all know there are always little surprises that come along to test us.Its nonsense to pretend it’s always perfect. You rock.
Being new to machining, the best part of watching these is that you find tools you didn't know you needed! Now that I know what a tap follower is, I certainly need one! I don't have a lathe so I guess I have to resort to buying one. ;-)
You put on a good show. Easy to listen to. Like your informality and "easy words" You have good hands for these demos and a good presentation voice. Thanks for a job well done.
Excellent little project Quinn. The one criticism I make is with indicating the part whilst using the steady rest. If the steady rest is deflecting the part, say towards the tool, as the part rotates it gets deflected an equal amount so the indicator reads the same.
Oh, I’m so glad that I procrastinated on making my tap follower. These improvements are awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Wow! I had no idea what a tap follower was, and don't know why I clicked the video. BUT, I find this one of the better instruction videos I have ever seen. Pleasent voice, excellent filming, excellent editing and commentary (including humour), (luckily no music), excellent design and skilled execution. Kudus for also including errors and remedy. I am now a fan.
Thank you for the kind words- I appreciate it! ☺️
Another top notch box-o-hints video. Loved the spring weave and the wet Emery cloth. And you consider yourself a hobbyist. Don't ever change. 😎
I’m definitely a hobbyist. What I don’t know about machining would fill a warehouse. 😁
Blondihacks somehow I know that feeling 🤭. Even though I’m in my mid seventies I still like to watch how others do things, you’re never to old to learn 🤗🤓
I run OD grinders in a job shop for a living. You are correct on centers. The expensive centers don't stay that good for long. After using them for a bit, they develop runout. On our grinders at work we use dead centers whenever possible. We have a collection of live centers that we use where tolerance isn't as critical then we keep one in a wooden box as clean as we can and only use it on critical stuff where concentritty is important.
After doing years of manual machining I still enjoy watching clips like this. It is nice to see good workmanship in use and I suppose it also makes me appreciate the CNC conversion a little more too.
Hi Quinn, Very helpful video. Need to make me two of those tap followers. Will do it this week. Regarding the accuracy of your live center. You can dismantle it (very easy to do) and check where the play comes from. If it is between the center shaft and bearing there is nothing economical that you can do to fix it. However if it is dew to excessive clearance in the bearings you can replace them. it will have a needle bearing deep inside a thrust bearing and a ball bearing in front. Replace them with a zero clearance bearing. most cheap everyday bearings have a C3 clearance. This should solve your problem without having to spend a lot of money on a new center. I would start with just replacing the ball bearing first.
Cool! Love seeing how tools are made rather than just bought. Gives more understanding of how they work and why they are made the way they are. Nice work!
Goswcizain
I have always put a tap in a drill press and turned the chuck by hand first and then used the chuck key handle to turn the chuck. I learned something new today. Thanks!
Excellent project and tutorial.
Tip! If hardening thin or slim items, then ensure the item is held vertically along the long axis when quenching. Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing.
Indeed, I did that but it still warped, sadly
@@Blondihacks Thanks for replying, for intricate components, stress relieving prior to heat treatment is highly recommended, but a simple pin shouldn't need it.
Enjoying the vlogs.
One of the most comforting voices I've ever heard.
Check out Lofty Pursuits. He's a candy maker with a very soothing voice.
@@effingeffwerd4353 Or BBQ Pit Boys - that voice is very soothing.
@@richardmeyer418 try LPL (Lock Picking Lawyer); Ed Copeland of Sixty Symbols
Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response guys.
Too smooth. She puts me to sleep watching the video.
After watching this video I also made a tap follower. The main difference in mine was the use of a 3/8-16 set screw on the end instead of a threaded cap. Now I have two. One with a point and a smaller one with a center hole. They cover both large and small taps.
Thanks for the interesting video.
I stumbled onto this vid out of algorithms and curiosity and I have to say I am super impressed with the quality and quantity of info (and the humour!). I have little to no experience with machining, up until 23 minutes ago!
Great work and no hesitation in subscribing and clicking the bell. I look forward to watching your back catalogue and future vids.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 10/10
Awesome! Thanks for the kind words and the sub!
I’m a old guy new to machining and really love your videos. Very well presented and help tremendously
Wonderful explaination of the logical steps of layout for the length before turning. You ma'am are definately my new morning coffee watch!!
I love the level of detail and explanation provided in this video. Never thought there was so much to learn about such a simple tool. Well done and thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Excellent especially your narratives on the devices you create! Excellent!
Im a fan of This Old Tony and other machinists like yourself, but have never had a budget that enabled me to actually acquire said machine tools. So this is a bit of overkill for my requirements or capablility. I am happy to be made aware of the "tap follower", I always just used a chunk of broke drill bit as a tap guide. I guess I'll have to try to figure out how to make a similar tool out of stock materials.
Wow Quinn, I was going to congratulate you on hitting 30,000 subscribers, and lo and behold, you're already at 30.1 K! Looks like folks are realizing what an exceptionally great site this is.
Aww, thanks! 😁
I do enjoy your video’s , you have done your research and you give an exceptional presentation . As Alton Brown is to cooking shows, you are to these video’s . Not only do I get excellent tips from watching you work, but I have learned that “Chowder” means bad, “Yahtzee” means good ,and “Bob’s your uncle” means finished. I am looking forward to getting more great tips, and learning new synonyms in future videos.
Quinn always does the best, I appreciate your letting us tag along.
Great job on the bearing pins, excellent!👍🏼 I like the emphasis on the coffee break to reset, coffee is our friend.☕️
I've really grown quite fond of your channel.I like your style.
Well blow be down. All these years of using taps and dies and I never realised that about the end of taps. I've used taps in a drill press to get them vertical but it's a bit of a faff, I also use a chuck if I'm tapping on the lathe. I shall make one of these. I'm also subscribing because I really enjoyed this video. Precise concise and no booming music. Top Marks, thank you.
Interesting tip on combining springs. At 9:28 on Joe Pieczynski's "Sequence is Everything for Small Parts" he talks about using different strength springs depending on tap size, so combining springs like you do kind've works for that because you can decombine them and just use one for smaller tap sizes.
My list of Beginner Projects continues to grow as I watch your videos, Quinn. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. Yahtzee!
A related suggestion. Drill a series of clearance holes for various tap sizes into a 1 1/4 steel block. When starting to tap a hole, feed the tap through the blcck until a few threads are formed. This will start the tap to within a degree of straight. I made one to mount boxes to machinery 40 years ago and still use it. Straight taps when laying on you back under a machine. And , good for bench work.
...because many times you want to tap things you can't hold in a lathe or mill.
"And that my friends, is a spring loaded tap follower"
That sentence gave me "Die Sendung mit der Maus" feelings.
I was wondering how a drill press is used to get a tap to track perfectly straight, and now I know. Nice to see someone at your level take the time to re-think how something is made and re-do the job to make it better.
The Brownell's Ospho-Blue is excellent stuff. I used it to do some bluing on a couple of small projects and the results look like what comes from the factory.
Kudos of rechecking runout after setting up the steadyrest.
I actually nodded in agreement as my OCD was satisfied haha
Use a diesel injector nozzle . Already hardened just make the outside see sleeve holder ☺
I may have got this wrong but I think metric reamers are designed to cut slightly over size - partly to allow for wear of course. Precision ground metric silver steel (drill rod) is I think deliberately ground very slightly under size so it will turn in a reamed hole. The tolerances are plus something minus zero for reamers and the other way round for drill rod. I do not know if this is true for US measurements or not but if it is then selecting appropriate reamers and drill rod would possibly eliminate one turning operation. Just a thought, rather depends on what is in stock! BobUK.
Nice demonstration of a worthwhile project as usual and it’s good to see your skills improving. I don’t know if you have discovered it yet but if you put oil on mechanical parts it will actually takeaway unwanted slop, especially in plain bearings.
I can't find a supplier of Oxpho Blue in the UK, which is sad because it appears to give excellent results. Thanks for the videos ... good clarity of voice, video, lighting and editing ... content well thought out and just what's needed for relative beginners. BTW, the person who never made a mistake, never made anything ! :)
Yep, it's a case of OSHA in the US not allowing it to fly. I did some research trying to get it into Australia, and the answer is just "NO!"
Birchwood-Casey Superblue is used by some restorers I watch that are based in Europe (TysyTube and my mechanics). Maybe that would be available to you?
"Learn from the mistakes of others. You'll never live long enough to make them all yourself." J.Z.
@@richardmeyer418 Finding a supplier in a non US country isn't limited by air travel. When a supplier imports things to sell, it's usually done by boat. It's probably more of a situation that Brownells is in the US, and the UK has their own cold bluing solution that they sell.
Buy any cold blue that's available in the UK. They all pretty much work well. (All the popular ones anyways.)
You are genuinely inspirational!!! I feel like I have learned more practical, real world tips and tricks in your twenty minute video here than I have over five years of watching other YT machinists and toolmakers. The colour of that blue finish is _lovely_ as well! Coming from Brownells was it originally intended for a Gunsmith's workshop perhaps?
Indeed, it is a gunsmithing product
"....but in the Blondihacks shop that gets you promoted." Ha!
My thought was it would get you a beer. Not sure which I would take... 🤣
Dont forget to double check the tap handles for Concentricity If you have tight tolerance threads. Great video.!!
Interesting varation on another one I saw and made. What he did was to bore and ream about a 3" inch deep hole in 1/2" stock (body), then mill a 1" slot into the side about 2/3 the way from the closed end. The tap extender ram turned to a point and sized for a close fit into the body. With the center inside the body and the pointed end extended as one wants a hole is drilled and tapped into the center at the mid point of the slot. A spring is then placed into the body, the center inserted and a screw, set screw, etc. is installed in the drilled and tapped hole. Thus, a different version of hte tap follower. I ended up making a spring as well which is another project in itself - also I could find nothing around the shop I liked.
The 1" trave. (could be more) allows for enough movement for a good tap start. Nothing is critical except the center to body fit.
Hi Quinn,
If you need drilled holes with a flat bottom, DeWalt pilot point drills will provide that flat bottom. I use them for just that purpose.
I never knew these existed. And it makes a ton of sense! Thank you for sharing this, I learned a lot. Well done. (now I want one)
Thanks for the much improved tap follower design. For best accuracy steady-rests should always be adjusted on a true diameter close to the chuck, then moved out to the working position. If done this way the accessory will be true to the center line of the lathe.
you are a very good teacher, very clear to understand
At 22:25 you made me remember one guy doing a review of cold bluing products and he didn’t pre test it to the real video, then he was talking to the camera and explaining what he was doing when a very natural “HOLY CRAP!!!” came out when the product worked wonders, as yours did, and it was super funny! His expression was priceless and unforgettable!
Great video!
Thanks for the incentive to finally make one of these.
Nice work! This seems like a pretty good project to start with when I get a lathe. I won't get the precision or finish you do but the tool itself is easy to understand and it involves a number of different operations on the lathe.
Very nice. This is next on my list of things to make, after I get my Tailstock Die holder built.
Ooh, shiny new metal tool!
Nicely done as usual.
Thanks and Meow.
Love the content! Being an old school mainframe programmer, your binary joke made me laugh. Naturally, as timing would have it, I was right in the middle of a sip of coffee. My screen needed a good cleaning anyway!
Nicely done, Quinn. I like your applied ingenuity for this project.
Nice work!
Would you put oil inside the tap follower to keep things corrosion free?
I was thinking about this too.
Yes, definitely a good idea. I should have mentioned that.
C'mon, people need explicit direction to oil a reciprocating part?
@@leehaelters6182 Lol. People will always bring up pointless/obvious things just to let everyone know that "they know what they're talking about."
really like the way you made the cap fit right down to the shoulder, I'll have to remember that :)
Havn't used a die nut for thirty years. When you screw cut a lot on a conventional lathe it is so much faster, perfectly concentric and the finish is superb. You also get a better fitting threads and when you screw cut confidently, you don't have to buy a new dienut every time you need a different thread. When I male slender parts, say an M8 thread on the end of something, I leave a bit extra on the length and turn down just below the root dia, say 6.5mm and use my centre. Eleminitates spring, gives space for the lead screw nut engagement and more importantly, takes up the minor end float in the spindle. When Im done I simply cut off with a cutting of disc in the disc grinder with the lathe going and of course with the centre out of the way.
Written like someone who has never had to use change gears. 😬
@@Blondihacks I do have that luxury but I did my training as we crossed over from mainly imperial pitches to mainly metric. The old flat bed lathes being imperial required gear changes and we just had a wee book. Did not have the luxury of changable tips, almost no carbide and these were used mainly on manganese work hardening sheaves and we brazed these on ourselves. We would be constantly getting ready for the next job, figuring it out, grinding up tools or drills while a cut was advancing in the lathe. Actual lathe engine time was longer but today people sit and watch instead of being productive. Today people mess about with carbide tooling and take lots of cuts(not the cnc guys) when in our day the lathe would run at a much slower speed, at the lower end of surface speed and we took deep, high feed cuts with qood quality high speed steel. You would be amazed how much material you can remove with a powerful lathe with a speed of 2 rpm. So yes I am spoilt but starting off I made thousands of shackel pins by hand. Hundreds of double start well pipes both internal and external with a flat square form and tapered to boot all without taper turning options. I was offering a bit of advice but that seems to have been missed.
Well done! I've learned so much from your channel!
Quinn are you a machinist by profession or is this your hobby? I can't get enough of your channel.
Great job! I love the idea of such precision, then I remember I am such a slacker and would never spend the time getting it perfect lol.
Oddly Satisfying indeed! Thank you very much for this Ms Blondi. I like the way you point out the range of run-out specs on the live centres. And the potential effect on the accuracy of the work. And the staggering $$s one has to pay for the really right stuff.
For my home shop I just stay away from bottom-of-the-barrel prices and the poor stuff you generally find there.
Bruce Witham urged me to get one after watching me struggle with the operation. I too had sticker shock at a good commercial equivalent.
Your humility is as refreshing as your humor. #fanforlife
WHAT! No single point threading! I'm shocked, SHOCKED! Nice video Quinn, thanks
I rarely do it on this machine because of the hassle of change gears.
You went directly to the point on this one ! At least you pointed out the flaws in your pointed pointer , being precise on this point is perfect ! Perhaps I should have just Gotten to the point right a way ! Lol
Great design, quinn 😊! Yup, them fancy live centers are annoyingly expensive 🤨. Thanks for the vid 👍😁👍
First video of yours I've watched, many more to come. Right on!
Looks like a fun little project! I think I might give this one a shot.
Nicely done! Good idea on combining two springs.
My parting goes so poorly, so often. I frequently reverse the lathe and grab my bandsaw. Luckily, I have seensome improvement with my newest parting tool holder build.. nice stuff Quinn
very nice job, love the videos. i did think about making one of these, but for the price to buy one isn't that dear at all. and its one less project to make, when you have so many to do already.. but i did love the idea of doing the reverse end for the small taps. so i took mine apart to do the same thing, but other then getting a tiny spot on the end with a centre drill i can make it any deeper. guess they hardened the inner shaft :(
Came up a thousandth short? Turn up the heat in the shop.
Have you considered purchasing a self centreing 4-jaw chuck ? I purchased one a few years ago & use it quite a bit !
I bought an extended nose live center so I could get closer to small parts, Cheap Chinese. Way to much runout to be of any value. I now use a half dead center. When using a tap always remember to tilt the glass so you don't get too much foam. Thanks for the video. My Chinese tap follower does the hula, I'll see if I can get one to come out as well as yours did.
Awesome job, as always, Quinn. I really need to make one of these.
Question: Would it make a difference in the runout of the live center if you measured it loaded as in normal use, rather than hanging out in space?
That’s a great question. It might!
@@Blondihacks Also, a drill chuck mounted to a tool holder for your QCTP is a good way to drill deep holes like that, when you lack tailstock quill travel. I have a similar (but smaller) import wedge-type tool post on my 7x10 lathe, and among the included holders is one with a Morse taper 2 socket. P/N is 250-005 for my 0XA-size tool post, -105 for AXA, -205 for BXA, etc.
It's fiddly to get the drill bit dead on center (I use a dowel pin clamped in the chuck to indicate against), but it allows faster peck-drilling/chip clearing, and also allows for drilling to a precise depth using a dial indicator or a DRO.
Hi, nice piece of kit. You could stretch the springs to the length you need just by pulling on them.
@Blondihacks Re: Time stamp 6:28 I find that clocking shafts with the three point steady in play like this tends to make the clock tell lies. The shaft can't really run out if the steady is supporting on the same surface that the clock is running on. The clock will read nice and steady in relation to the bed even if the steady is holding the shaft off from the machine center-line... I once accidentally turned a tapered bore into a part in this way because I didn't notice the small amount by which the shaft was getting "worked" where the chuck jaws held it.
If possible I like to set up my three point steady with the tail stock holding the part on the lathe center line and then remove the tail stock/center once the three point is all locked down. Doing it this way also makes it easier to touch the steady points onto the shaft with just the right amount of force so as to not squish thin walls.
Re: 12:53 I dunno, I tend to do the same thing more often than I should, but I've taken to momentarily dropping the feed engagement lever out and stopping the tool at the line for a few RPM's before re-engaging. It leaves a surprisingly visible mark where the line was on the new surface for latter reference.
Edited cause I'm being clear as mud again...
Quinn: gosh I feel as I just made one in my chair 💺 watching you. Very nice 😇🙏
I turned my follower using my valve grinding machine - works great.
The drill rod would allow me to explore the options for the Hot Shot 360 and the tool post grinder. Love the bluing detail.
I need to make a "negative centre" for those small taps. I did make mine with the screw at the back - not really some clever thinking on my behalf, just pure coincidence of how I figured I could make it. But first I need to fix the power to my lathe. I broke the three-phase inverter that feeds my lathe with three-phase in my single-phase garage - a small chip must have fallen down into the electrical parts when I hammered in some clips for the wiring for my mill, and when I turned the power on for the lathe, "flash / bang and then power gone...". Found the culprit, but the amount of smoke and burnt bits on the PCB told me to order a new one. Will try to build some sort of roof/cover for it, so that chips that make it up to the inverter will fall off to the side rather than sit on top of the inverter...
For future mechanisms, if you make the length of the larger diameter of the pin (that mates with the bore of the body) as long as feasible, you'll control the lateral play in that without needing to match the concentricity of the bore the pin exits from - that can be clearance.
Two points of support will always be more rigid though
Great video. Glad that you came up on my recommended videos. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub! 😄
Ha I literally just made a dual end tap follower yesterday
You are scaring me Quinn
Hey, with a name like TommyGun Machining, I feel everything you do is likely awesome. Happy to be near that. 😁
@@Blondihacks Ha, I'm just a hobbyist learning (and failing) as hard as I can
Excellent and fun to watch... also oddly satisfying. Thanks!
When you succeed at making such a beautiful tool I seem to recall there is some kind traditional celebratory dance. Now what was that again? Think, think, think... well anyway, job well done. Love your work!
Tappy-tap-tap Dancing?
Love your videos, I always learn something new keep them coming
Yet another great video! I love your story-telling style. Thanks for sharing!
Just wondering if you grind a flat bottom drill bit would that give your reamer a bit more depth.
I like a little more spring pressure on a tap follower. In my opinion, the initial force of the spring is what makes the threads straight. After 4-5 turns, the tap will continue to be straight, and you can remove the follower. Maybe I was was misreading the spring tension in the video.
I bought a tap follower with a pointy end. After this, I went back and looked if there was the other end. After disassembly, there was! Of course there were no included instructions even at the site I bought it from.
Your making a lot of sense. Not many ppl work to .0001” good on ya.
Nice no funky music. Great instructions with great tips!
I have recently acquired one and it is great. Nice video
Really nice, and surely an upgrade over the previous one. Is there a particular reason to use threaded cap on the outside instead of a large grub screw on the inside, that way the shaft remains concentric over it's whole length and you can also alter the spring tension. (although you would probably need to use some loctite to keep it from moving)
BONUS points for the binary price!
You never always seem to amaze me.
Quinn, that is GREAT! (Anyone who
says your videos are not good, sorry!)
(Oh, remind me not to watch these late
at night. I almost did a "spit-take" on
my new monitor.)
steve
I really enjoy you video's and have learned much from you, some of which my dad didn't teach me, thank you.
Never thought that idea...thanks quinn
Well done with the detailed explanation of every step
When turning very small diameter stock, use a small chuck from a discarded hand held electric drill. They generally have 3/8 through hole and are REALLY ACCURATE when placed in the normal lathe chuck. Try it, you'll like it.