WC Knives AEB-L, CPM 3v snd Magnacut Edge Retention Comparison
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2024
- #wcknives #williamcollinsknives #edgetest #magnacut #cpm3v #aebl
Edge holding comparison between WC Knives heat and croyo treated AEB-L, CPM-3V, and CPM Magnacut using cardboard.
Despite the Magnacut supposedly being better on paper , your heat treat and geometry is what i think is kicking ass here the AEB-L is just as good performance wise. I’d think it depends on what folks are willing to pay for the more premium newer steel here. I wouldnt feel undergunned going with a blade in your AEBL.
You got it so dialed in with hardness and toughness on the AEB-L it shows a high level of expertise in your design and HT , Well done William Merry Christmas to ya! 🎄🎁
I absolutely agree. I have a knife in AEB-L from another well known maker and it does not hold a candle compared to Williams AEB-L. I attribute that to both heat treatment and edge geometry. In fact, if I had never owned Williams AEB-L and my only experience was with the other makers knife - I would say AEB-L sucks based on that experience. Just goes to show that there are a lot of variables in play, and that it's important to stick with a maker that you trust and who's knives fit your style of use.
the most important thing we learned here is that a fine apex allows the user to maintain his edge with just a fine ceramic rod as demonstrated by william. Ive been aware that aeb-l is a great steel being able to get a very fine apex tough enough to perform chores confidently but this is the first time seeing it heat treated to 62 hrc and keeping up with magnacut. great video!
All 3 of the steels you tested are some of my favorite steels alongside s90v, elmax, nitro-v, Nirtobe 77, Vanax and M4. I have a chefs knife in Aeb-l at 63hrc and its one of my favorite knives to use. It, Sandvik steels, Nitro-v and Nitrobe 77 just take a finer edge than any other steel and are a 10/10. M4, Magnacut and Vanax are just a bit behind and are 9-9.5/10. I also love the fact that you can use just about anything to put a razor edge back on it with little effort. Few swipes on a ceramic, shapton 1000, balsa or kangaroo leather strop with 5/3 micron diamond paste gets back to splitting hairs.
Thank you William, Merry Christmas, stay out of the cold!
Thanks for all your work and sharing this test. I have read what Larrin Thomas says about steels, including AEB-L. I think he would agree with most of what you are finding. When it comes to bang for the buck, it's hard to beat AEB-L!
The only issue I have with this test, is the knives being used have different edge geometry and shape. Which changes A LOT, as you know. Also, you’ve developed your own specialized heat treat of AEB-L if I’m not mistaken. The same can be done with MagnaCut (hasn’t truly been done yet) and CPM 3V (has been done, check out Delta 3V). Just to clarify, when you say tougher, are you referring to edge retention or impact/shock resistance?
All edges are 13 degrees on either side so the blade geometry isn’t that much of an effect. I clarified in the video several times these knives were heat treated in my shop and could not speak for other brands. I like Magnacut . Is it that much better than properly heat treated AEB-L and worth the extra price that is up to the customer. Even the developer for Magnacut list AEB-L in his top three steels. I was going by the standard charts that states the 3v is tougher from lab results. This usually means from chipping or breaking. Edge retention is a different category.
There is always new steels to try out but I think at this point in day to day use it is very difficult to see a dramatic difference in steels. Best bang for the buck is AEB-L from my shop so I will stay white the few steels I have dialed in for heat treat.
@@wcknives Really cool test and thanks for sharing it.
Howdy. As I recall, you used to be a member of Survivalist Boards for a short time. I believe I bought a knife from you back then. I still have it and I really like it. Anyway, good to see you're still making knives.
I think you have me mixed up with someone else. Never been on a survival board.
@@wcknives Interesting. I have a knife with a WC etched in it. Someone from that site sold it to me, but acted as if he had made it.
@@boldlygo3469 can you send my a picture. Williamcollins@wcknives.com
@@wcknives Sure thing. I have more than 300 knives in my collection so I'll dig it out of my foot locker. I may already have it in a picture archive I have but it probably isn't a close up shot.
@@wcknives Pictures sent!
I’d be happy to own any knife of yours in AEBL. My Master Bushman in 3V holds a terrific edge and is easy enough to hone back with ceramic for wood processing, so I can only imagine how your AEBL performs. I’ll be getting one at some point.
All of that said, I did want to mention that MagnaCut has been shown to maintain both toughness and corrosion resistance at 64-65 HRC with the benefit of increased wear resistance. MagnaCut at 62 may not be worth the premium over your AEBL, but MagnaCut at 64-65 may be worth experimenting with.
Keep up the great work! Love the knives and love the content!
Appreciate the information on Magnacut. Will give it a try at a higher RC at some point although usually, and I say usually because there are exceptions to every rule, the higher RC above 63 in most cases loses much of its toughness. That is why CPM recommends 62.5 as optimum for that steel. Not sure if longer edge retention is worth the loss of toughness considering almost 300 cardboard cuts and still slice paper like that and shave a little but still have the toughness shown is lab test, that’s very rare.
No argument there. I have some MagnaCut at 62 on a hollow- and chisel-ground knife that is very thin behind the edge and the edge stability is fantastic and the edge retention is more than reasonable. With your 12.5° edges, it’s probably the right choice. 👊
This and Larrin’s write-up on the blog seemed to suggest there was little cost to 63 HRC. It’s not the dealbreaker for me that it seems to be for some others. Just felt worth mentioning.
ua-cam.com/video/a5lzf8LA03o/v-deo.html
@@JMcConnell appreciate the link and very informative video.
Wc kudos for doing testing.
It looks like you are doing different width cardboard-boo boo- and cutting boxes into strips with test knives -honey boo boo. Also the blade lengths seem different. From the bro science peanut gallery😊
LOL, not scientific or lab conditions as you can see. But there is enough information given and shown for someone with an open mind to decide for themselves.
I find it funny how a lot of people chase the newest and greatest steals that come out. Maybe I'm just getting old (No maybe about it) but I'd rather have old proven steel from a maker that knows that steel than anything that is the newest greatest thing out there. In almost 60 years I've never had a knife from a good smith let me down in the field or at home. Take care of a good knife and it will take care of you. Just my 2 cents. Looking forward to the knife I have coming of yours it's in Nitro V don't know a lot about that steel but I'm putting my trust in the maker so I'm sure it will do everything I need it to do. Thanks
Appreciate your trust and support.
Great test William! I own many WC knives purchased from , Northern Woodman Elite (Panno). Regarding, AEBL steel. Thumbs, up!
William Collins Cardboard Recycling. Lol. All look like they will be good choices.
I'm a magnacut fan. I have a Sargent Edged Tools PSK in MC and I rarely have to sharpen it. Its retention is amazing. Scandi grind. My Gossman 8" BBT convex grind is in AEBL and it makes an amazing chopper but it doesn't retain it's edge as well as the SET. Granted, I'm batoning with the Gossman where the SET is for more delicate work. I'd imagine grind and type of use has a huge factor in edge retention. Not sure on the price difference between AEBL and MC but if it's big, that might be the deciding factor. Forgot to mention I also have a Gossman Deer Creek in MC - convex grind - and it loses it's edge quicker than the SET.
A lot does depend on the grind and heat treat. All knives in the test had the same 12.5 degree on either side scandi grind with my heat treat. Didn’t see much difference in edge retention as stated and demonstrated in the video.
Personally, if AEBL has proven effectiveness on the field why change it? I will not…
Depends if want extra corrosion resistance (use case, environment...etc)
the problem here is both steels are identically the same hrc and geometry so William might have carpal tunnel before neither knives get dull
Any one of those steel would be just fine. If you get the 3V make sure the maker is using a low-temperature tempering protocol.
AEB-L is my top choice. Is the knife in AEB-L shown in this video the Fieldlore? I also would like another WCSK, in AEB-L. Thanks.
Addressed the WCSK in AEB-L in a comment earlier. Yes the AEB-L in this video is the Fieldlore.
I think the AEB-L is amazing. Do not see a reason to change over. I am sure the Aeb-l is cheaper too
I’m getting ready to order another WCSK. I still don’t know if I want to go with O1 or Stainless. Have you started using AEBL again for the SK’s? I haven’t checked the site in a bit. I just wish you’d offer more handle color options. I got my first one changed to a natural micarta with OD green liners. Can’t go wrong with micarta for a workhorse knife. Merry early Christmas William!
Still working through the WCSK blanks in nitro v. Not going back to AEB-L for them till The Nitro v is gone. Will be a while till then. Nitro v is a great stainless steel also. Every steel is well tested before I offer it as an option.
@@wcknives I’m just not a fan of nitro V. I used the Alaskan bush tool in nitro V and didn’t like the extra time it took to hone it. AEB-L just has that little sweet spot of better performance to maintenance ratio than any other stainless on the market. I’ll wait until the nitro V is used up and pick up an AEB-L version when they’re ready. Much love William.
@@pubplays368 can’t argue with that. Will give video update notices when the WCSK is again available in AEB-L.
For daily EDC I want the highest edge retention I can get.
In an outdoor situation away from my workshop I want the steel I can get sharp 'enough' with a river stone, when (not if) I make a stupid mistake...
But, I am no expert, just an amateur, with a passion for cutting tools.
The you will love this video from beginning to end.
There is a steel in this video that can provide both of your needs, shop and field.
I wish all my WC were AEBL
On the knife-making front, which is easier to work with?
AEB-L takes less belts.
Then I would have to say AEB-L keeps the crown in my book! It will handle everything you throw at it.
AEB-L is my brew.. don't care what the test ends up as!
127 was the count on the magnacut
Sorry the 127 was the 3 V
AEBL……nuff said
Since I don't use my knives to break up concrete, I will stick with AEBL as the winner.
😂
but the advantage of extra toughness, especially at higher hardness, is the ability to run a lower angle on the edge. That's huge for edge life. If you can run AEB-L at 62 rockwell and 15* per side to avoid chipping in your uses, maybe you could use Magnacut at 63 hrc and 12* per side. Then it would be a matter of whether the higher abrasion resistance would be better than 3V at 63 with a 10* per side edge. If you run them all at 15* and aren't in danger of chipping/rolling any of them, there won't be a big advantage in the powdered metal steels.
@@carlh7795 all of my edge angles is 12.5 degree. So yes at 61-63 for both steels perform very well. There are many test videos on my channel demonstrating this.
@@carlh7795 the edge angles in this test was 12.5 on either side for all knives.
@@wcknives after commenting, I looked up the specs for AEB-L again. I was going from memory. It has a higher toughness rating than I thought, even at 62-63. Are there many (any?) instances where 440C would be a better choice than AEB-L for a typical knife? With the much higher toughness and much finer grain structure (smaller chromium carbides), I don't see a situation where 440C would be better. I'm very new to knife stuff... just been making skinners (for hog hunting and some deer) from 20CV and 10V. I'll check out your other videos. Thanks!
If I have to choose I still want AEBL...They both won't corrode out from under you, AEBL is cheaper, and obviously you know what you're doing with it. I mean Lord Will, they were both eating cardboard like you were slicing potatoes to fry with onion and garlic. That's also why the WCSK is so attractive. You can split reasonable kindling and build a fire, hone it with a Spyderco ceramic and cook dinner. I don't have to split 4 inch seasoned white oak with it😆Ive got plenty stuff to do that with. A chopper , sure 3V is fine, but I'm getting past the baby the stuff against corrosion every single knife I own😂