Cheers for the upload. Demystified the process & I now have hot water again! Your tip to remove the pipe with the valve body works well & you're right that access to make the connections on the back of the valve without removing it would be difficult, BUT my boiler started to weep from the connection on the right hand side... To anyone doing it this way; it would be wise to have a new o-ring on hand for that end to ensure the seal is watertight.
Bro ngl this was a life saver! Especially that back bit with the clip ! I did a good job but I forgot to do up the 1st 2 nuts 😂 water everywhere but quickly sorted it. Smashed it geeza
This has been brilliant! I had limited access to the back/right corner, so I had to undo the back pipe by removing the clip right at the left end side of the back pipe, as well as the small pipe just above. This proved a bit fiddly, but worked fine anyway. Thank you buddy
Thanks for the video, cracking tutorial! I've just replaced the diverter on my Main 24he, along with the AAV and the PCB, but my rads are still getting hot when only water should be called. Both pins from the diverter are out, with both micro switches engaged.
HI! I have a baxi eco 240i boiler! From the video they look like the same parts! The boiler always stays on so I have to turn it on and off manually every time I need it! I noticed that as soon as I turn it on the pump starts and immediately afterwards the small piston behind it rises vertically in the valve that you disassemble in your video and turns on the boiler and starts heating the house! Only the piston behind it! The one in front only comes out when I turn on the water in the sink or shower! It works correctly. It's just the small piston at the back that rises by itself and when I turn off the boiler it goes back in. This problem occurs in both summer☀️ and winter❄️ modes! I tried disconnecting the batteries and wires from the home thermostat thinking that was the problem but it's not! I changed the electronic board but that's not the problem either! Every time I have to turn the boiler on and off manually!! Can you tell me what the problem could be ? Thank you.
My potterton promax has hot water but no central heating. I changed the actuator and the cartridge as they were rusted and old. But I still get the same fault. The programmer shows the flame, and the reciever near the boiler lights up but the boiler doesn't fire up. Could it be an electrical issue?
@@advancedboilertraining thank you mate. There was no power going to the boiler from the receiver. I just put a loop in so heating can be turned on from the boiler at least. Any idea why the receiver would just stop working over night like that?
I have a leak coming from behind the diaphragm cage out of the grub screw holes...do you know why it leaks from these holes and what's the solution to curing the leaks? Great informative video cheers 👍
@@advancedboilertraining I changed the O ring and the diaphragm while I was at it yesterday but it was still leaking this morning, so I'm thinking it only could be the main body of the diverter valve side O ring that needs replacing 🤷♂️
Fantastic video, very well explained, thank you. I am not a boiler repair engineer and called one out to fault find, and they mentioned this part needs replacing. May I ask, what an average time is to replace this please. (Not me changing it, the engineer)
Hey Gio, it really depends. If everything goes well I would say about 30-ish minutes. If not, then a couple of hours Things that can cause it to take longer: - Screws and nuts being rusted in place and making it a nightmare to undo something that's very basic (this boiler is quite old so this is common) - Leaks. There are a lot of connections you disturb when doing this repair so it's possible you might get one or two tiny leaks when you put it back together.
Thank you so much for sharing this video! On my diverter valve, water drops are slowly leaking from the nut at the very front. Can this nut be removed and the sealing (which I suspect is at fault causing the leakage) underneath replaced? Boiler is still working both for heating and hot water. Your expert response is greatly appreciated.
@@advancedboilertraining Many thanks, have watch it - great instructions again ! I’ve learned a lot from you, from just two of you videos. - You’ve got a new subie :-)
👁 What a super video! 👍🏻 You show & explain so well. Can you please help me with your mind! 🙏🏻 Heating is fine, Hot water doesnt work as combi boiler doesn't fire up when HW is called for. I been told I need new divertor valve,, but boiler isn't even heating up when calling.. ~ Surely must be an electrical switch or pressure problem? I knew more about my boiler than the young man that came to ' sort it '. He couldn't even open the control panel, gave up, didn't check it systematically at all. Please I just need your professional opinion , much appreciated. 💜🤗
Oh no, it’s always concerning when a customer knows more than the engineer 😂. If the boiler does nothing when you run the hot tap the rubber diaphragm might have failed. Sometimes the rubber diaphragm splits in the pressure differential valve (front circle part the diverter) and so the pin doesn’t push out enough the activate the microswitch. That microswitch is what tells the boiler to activate. With that the key thing you want to see is that the front pin is coming out and activating that switch when you run the hot tap. (But obviously if you’re not gas safe I wouldn’t recommend you opening up the boiler 😉)
Thanks very much@@advancedboilertraining 🤗💜 No, it doesn't feel good to go through this experience! 😀 Paying £400 p.a. for service plan, 20years,, I should've bought life insurance instead.😥 Cheers for explanation of that. > So the rubber diaphragm is inside that round part of divertor. May not even be whole part needed. It sounds like something goes on like a valve moving when I call for HW, presumed that's the divertor switch cartridge moving to let the non existent hot water to the taps. 💫 That microswitch, is a chance it could be not getting power or something to tell boiler to go on? Thanks for explaining about the diaphragm. I can easily look, I've already taken down cover a few times, I won't touch any electrical parts. Is it something I would see moving on outside of round part ? Nowt else I can check? Water temp switch on front hasn't worked for years, nothing to do with anything its connected to? ~ The young man left safety notice without explaining it, something about a fuse being stuck somewhere.. ☆ Like you say in your video ~ the return pipe to heating would be getting hot if water going down to radiators, as the young man said is happening, but isn't. Its so nice of you to answer what must be a silky question. 🙏🏻 ♡ I feel I'm being set up to be forced into buying new boiler, he told me part may take 3weeks to find,, but they might not.🙀 Midnight too! Thanks again, have a good night. 🙂
@@suzycat2026 yeah unfortunately sometimes boilers can be headache. Yeah the micro switch could be faulty. Besides doing basic visual checks yourself, there’s not really much else you can do. You’ll need an engineer to come and test components etc etc. If you look on checkatrade I’m pretty sure you’ll find someone good
@@advancedboilertraining I really appreciate you taking time to explain this & thanks your advice. Yes, feel I need a second opinion with a visit from someone else. Guess I feel silly paying for this service plan, now their workers aren't trained so well. Cheers & have a fine weekend. Keep up the good work. 🙂
I have this boiler and I am having a problem with it. I am getting central heating perfectly fine but when I run the hot water tap it's running cold and the pilot light isn't lighting up when calling for HW previous to us not having hot water at all the HW was running intermittent and we had to slow the flow down on the tap to achieve normal HW temp could you shed some light please
For your initial issue of intermittent HW, it sounds like maybe your plate heat exchanger was blocked. The hot water couldn’t flow through the plate so the boiler would overheat and cut out (hence why your hot water was intermittent). It could also be the diverter letting heat through to the central heating hence why you have to slow the rate of the water down to get it hot (the slower the rate of the water, the more time it spends in the heat exchanger getting warmed up) But to do with your issue of no demand for hot water at all now, it’s sounds like your hot water micro switch is faulty or the rubber diagram has split (I have another video on this on my UA-cam channel. It’s a really easy repair) Hope that helps
Watched this and the servicing video, decided go for a replacement rather than the service kit. My boiler is in the loft, do I need to do anything additonal when re-presurising the system after it's fitted? Great video btw.
Thank you for the video mate. Much much appreciated. However, I've done this whole job, turned the boiler back on - all working again but hasn't fixed the issue... my radiators are still getting hot when we use the hot tap. Any other explanation? Combi 105E
@MarkHockin-dp9cz hi mate. Yes the new diverter valve I bought turned out to be defective. The spring on one of the plungers wasn't functioning correctly (same as the one I took out) and it was constantly going round the bypass heating the radiators up. Hope this helps
@@michaelvenus8539 thanks mate, truly appreciate the reply. Did you remove the valve again or sort it in situ? I'm assuming both pins were hitting the switches showing something was up with the valve?
@MarkHockin-dp9cz no worries mate. I took the valve back off again, once I'd had it off once, it was only 10mins to drain and get it back off again. Yes, both pins and microswitches were working as they should and there was no clear issue with the circuit board which led me back to the diverter valve. If you follow the bypass around to the back of the diverter and look inside the diverter from that side you will see a large rubber seat which is spring loaded it was that spring which was my issue. If you haven't bought a new one, I would take it all apart, clean it up and buy a replacement service kit which would be cheaper. Hope that helps mate. Good luck
Thanks again mate, I may have the same issue with my new diverter then sadly. Will try and pull it out today and have another look. Luckily I already have a service kit as I was going to recondition my old valve and keep it as a spare!
your new diverter valve won’t include the diaphragm housing which can be removed without draining the boiler and you can also get a new diverter service kit
Hello mate, this video has really helped me as my landlords gas engineer cant seem to fix it, I wonder if yo could help me. first off the heating still comes on when the hot water is on. He has replaced both diaphragms in the diverter valve, still heating comes on through the flow pipe to the radiators. Is there anything else that it could possibly be ? I know fault finding can be hard, could it be anything to do with the springs, sensors or other moving parts inside the diverter valve ? If you could help that would be great the video is really helpful anyways. many thanks in advance.
Hey mate great video I’ve just used it to change this exact diverter. However even with the new one fitted I’m still having the same issue, the pin for the heating is still coming out for the heating and the flow is still getting hot, any idea what else it could be mate
Brilliant video mate, very well explained, I think I'll have to change this part on my boiler except the problem I have is the boiler won't shut off after I've turned the hot tap off (room stat is not calling for heat), do you think the diverter valve is responsible?
@@dannyarcher cheers for the info mate, I had a feeling it might be something like that after I'd taken the diverter valve apart and replaced all the parts and the problem still there
@@stepheng180 unlikely but check the PRV and see if it’s wet. You might have a split in the burner. But tbh I’d suggest getting gas safe registered fitter around. Goodluck.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Cheers for the upload. Demystified the process & I now have hot water again!
Your tip to remove the pipe with the valve body works well & you're right that access to make the connections on the back of the valve without removing it would be difficult, BUT my boiler started to weep from the connection on the right hand side... To anyone doing it this way; it would be wise to have a new o-ring on hand for that end to ensure the seal is watertight.
Bro ngl this was a life saver! Especially that back bit with the clip ! I did a good job but I forgot to do up the 1st 2 nuts 😂 water everywhere but quickly sorted it. Smashed it geeza
Nice work!
This has been brilliant!
I had limited access to the back/right corner, so I had to undo the back pipe by removing the clip right at the left end side of the back pipe, as well as the small pipe just above. This proved a bit fiddly, but worked fine anyway.
Thank you buddy
Love your videos bro, keep em coming and thank you for sharing your knowledge
Glad they’re helping👍
How do I switch off the main power before attempting to do anything? I want yo replace the diverter valve.
Thanks for the video, cracking tutorial! I've just replaced the diverter on my Main 24he, along with the AAV and the PCB, but my rads are still getting hot when only water should be called. Both pins from the diverter are out, with both micro switches engaged.
Thank you mate. Great job. Just replaced mine, all work as should.
It worked very well for me. Greetings from Turkey :)
I love your videos man. Great job 👏 ❤
HI! I have a baxi eco 240i boiler! From the video they look like the same parts! The boiler always stays on so I have to turn it on and off manually every time I need it! I noticed that as soon as I turn it on the pump starts and immediately afterwards the small piston behind it rises vertically in the valve that you disassemble in your video and turns on the boiler and starts heating the house! Only the piston behind it! The one in front only comes out when I turn on the water in the sink or shower! It works correctly. It's just the small piston at the back that rises by itself and when I turn off the boiler it goes back in. This problem occurs in both summer☀️ and winter❄️ modes! I tried disconnecting the batteries and wires from the home thermostat thinking that was the problem but it's not! I changed the electronic board but that's not the problem either! Every time I have to turn the boiler on and off manually!! Can you tell me what the problem could be ? Thank you.
Very informative and good camera work also well explained Thank you sir
My potterton promax has hot water but no central heating. I changed the actuator and the cartridge as they were rusted and old. But I still get the same fault. The programmer shows the flame, and the reciever near the boiler lights up but the boiler doesn't fire up.
Could it be an electrical issue?
Yeah first thing I would check is if the receiver is actually sending power to the boiler when it gives the flame symbol (Could be faulty)
@@advancedboilertraining thank you mate. There was no power going to the boiler from the receiver. I just put a loop in so heating can be turned on from the boiler at least.
Any idea why the receiver would just stop working over night like that?
Very informative videos mate 👍
Thanks!👍
Excellent vids mate 👍
Thanks Dale👊
Right hand clip, great tip. Thanks
I have a leak coming from behind the diaphragm cage out of the grub screw holes...do you know why it leaks from these holes and what's the solution to curing the leaks?
Great informative video cheers 👍
Usually you would have to change the washer inside. Over time the washers degrade and have to be replaced unfortunately
@@advancedboilertraining I changed the O ring and the diaphragm while I was at it yesterday but it was still leaking this morning, so I'm thinking it only could be the main body of the diverter valve side O ring that needs replacing 🤷♂️
Great video, thank-you👍
Top man, thanks for all your helpful information
Fantastic video, very well explained, thank you.
I am not a boiler repair engineer and called one out to fault find, and they mentioned this part needs replacing.
May I ask, what an average time is to replace this please. (Not me changing it, the engineer)
Hey Gio, it really depends. If everything goes well I would say about 30-ish minutes. If not, then a couple of hours
Things that can cause it to take longer:
- Screws and nuts being rusted in place and making it a nightmare to undo something that's very basic (this boiler is quite old so this is common)
- Leaks. There are a lot of connections you disturb when doing this repair so it's possible you might get one or two tiny leaks when you put it back together.
Thank you so much for sharing this video! On my diverter valve, water drops are slowly leaking from the nut at the very front. Can this nut be removed and the sealing (which I suspect is at fault causing the leakage) underneath replaced? Boiler is still working both for heating and hot water. Your expert response is greatly appreciated.
I have a video on my channel specifically for this problem, take a look at it 👍
@@advancedboilertraining Many thanks, have watch it - great instructions again ! I’ve learned a lot from you, from just two of you videos. - You’ve got a new subie :-)
👁 What a super video! 👍🏻 You show & explain so well.
Can you please help me with your mind! 🙏🏻 Heating is fine, Hot water doesnt work as combi boiler doesn't fire up when HW is called for.
I been told I need new divertor valve,, but boiler isn't even heating up when calling..
~ Surely must be an electrical switch or pressure problem? I knew more about my boiler than the young man that came to ' sort it '.
He couldn't even open the control panel, gave up, didn't check it systematically at all.
Please I just need your professional opinion , much appreciated. 💜🤗
Oh no, it’s always concerning when a customer knows more than the engineer 😂.
If the boiler does nothing when you run the hot tap the rubber diaphragm might have failed. Sometimes the rubber diaphragm splits in the pressure differential valve (front circle part the diverter) and so the pin doesn’t push out enough the activate the microswitch. That microswitch is what tells the boiler to activate.
With that the key thing you want to see is that the front pin is coming out and activating that switch when you run the hot tap. (But obviously if you’re not gas safe I wouldn’t recommend you opening up the boiler 😉)
Thanks very much@@advancedboilertraining 🤗💜 No, it doesn't feel good to go through this experience! 😀
Paying £400 p.a. for service plan, 20years,, I should've bought life insurance instead.😥
Cheers for explanation of that. > So the rubber diaphragm is inside that round part of divertor. May not even be whole part needed.
It sounds like something goes on like a valve moving when I call for HW, presumed that's the divertor switch cartridge moving to let the non existent hot water to the taps. 💫
That microswitch, is a chance it could be not getting power or something to tell boiler to go on? Thanks for explaining about the diaphragm.
I can easily look, I've already taken down cover a few times, I won't touch any electrical parts. Is it something I would see moving on outside of round part ? Nowt else I can check? Water temp switch on front hasn't worked for years, nothing to do with anything its connected to?
~ The young man left safety notice without explaining it, something about a fuse being stuck somewhere..
☆ Like you say in your video ~ the return pipe to heating would be getting hot if water going down to radiators, as the young man said is happening, but isn't.
Its so nice of you to answer what must be a silky question. 🙏🏻
♡ I feel I'm being set up to be forced into buying new boiler, he told me part may take 3weeks to find,, but they might not.🙀
Midnight too! Thanks again, have a good night. 🙂
@@suzycat2026 yeah unfortunately sometimes boilers can be headache.
Yeah the micro switch could be faulty. Besides doing basic visual checks yourself, there’s not really much else you can do. You’ll need an engineer to come and test components etc etc. If you look on checkatrade I’m pretty sure you’ll find someone good
@@advancedboilertraining I really appreciate you taking time to explain this & thanks your advice.
Yes, feel I need a second opinion with a visit from someone else.
Guess I feel silly paying for this service plan, now their workers aren't trained so well.
Cheers & have a fine weekend. Keep up the good work. 🙂
A little tip for you Boiler Breakdown Training, try servicing the boiler on the wall! ;).....only joking, great videos.
very helpful video , your a star.
Solid content 💪
Thank you!
I have this boiler and I am having a problem with it. I am getting central heating perfectly fine but when I run the hot water tap it's running cold and the pilot light isn't lighting up when calling for HW previous to us not having hot water at all the HW was running intermittent and we had to slow the flow down on the tap to achieve normal HW temp could you shed some light please
For your initial issue of intermittent HW, it sounds like maybe your plate heat exchanger was blocked. The hot water couldn’t flow through the plate so the boiler would overheat and cut out (hence why your hot water was intermittent). It could also be the diverter letting heat through to the central heating hence why you have to slow the rate of the water down to get it hot (the slower the rate of the water, the more time it spends in the heat exchanger getting warmed up)
But to do with your issue of no demand for hot water at all now, it’s sounds like your hot water micro switch is faulty or the rubber diagram has split (I have another video on this on my UA-cam channel. It’s a really easy repair)
Hope that helps
Watched this and the servicing video, decided go for a replacement rather than the service kit. My boiler is in the loft, do I need to do anything additonal when re-presurising the system after it's fitted? Great video btw.
Thank you for the video mate. Much much appreciated. However, I've done this whole job, turned the boiler back on - all working again but hasn't fixed the issue... my radiators are still getting hot when we use the hot tap. Any other explanation? Combi 105E
Did you ever get this sorted? I have the same issue!
@MarkHockin-dp9cz hi mate. Yes the new diverter valve I bought turned out to be defective. The spring on one of the plungers wasn't functioning correctly (same as the one I took out) and it was constantly going round the bypass heating the radiators up. Hope this helps
@@michaelvenus8539 thanks mate, truly appreciate the reply. Did you remove the valve again or sort it in situ? I'm assuming both pins were hitting the switches showing something was up with the valve?
@MarkHockin-dp9cz no worries mate. I took the valve back off again, once I'd had it off once, it was only 10mins to drain and get it back off again. Yes, both pins and microswitches were working as they should and there was no clear issue with the circuit board which led me back to the diverter valve. If you follow the bypass around to the back of the diverter and look inside the diverter from that side you will see a large rubber seat which is spring loaded it was that spring which was my issue. If you haven't bought a new one, I would take it all apart, clean it up and buy a replacement service kit which would be cheaper. Hope that helps mate. Good luck
Thanks again mate, I may have the same issue with my new diverter then sadly. Will try and pull it out today and have another look. Luckily I already have a service kit as I was going to recondition my old valve and keep it as a spare!
Great video. Cheers pal
your new diverter valve won’t include the diaphragm housing which can be removed without draining the boiler and you can also get a new diverter service kit
Hello mate, this video has really helped me as my landlords gas engineer cant seem to fix it, I wonder if yo could help me.
first off the heating still comes on when the hot water is on.
He has replaced both diaphragms in the diverter valve, still heating comes on through the flow pipe to the radiators.
Is there anything else that it could possibly be ?
I know fault finding can be hard, could it be anything to do with the springs, sensors or other moving parts inside the diverter valve ?
If you could help that would be great the video is really helpful anyways.
many thanks in advance.
good job
Hey mate great video I’ve just used it to change this exact diverter. However even with the new one fitted I’m still having the same issue, the pin for the heating is still coming out for the heating and the flow is still getting hot, any idea what else it could be mate
Exactly the same as me, still heating my radiators when we run the hot tap. Let me know if you kind a fix... I'll do the same for you 👍
And me it would seem, did you guys ever get to the bottom of it?
Thanks for the helpful vid! Do you need to drain the heating system to remove this part?
Yes.
Great help thank you
Brilliant video mate, very well explained, I think I'll have to change this part on my boiler except the problem I have is the boiler won't shut off after I've turned the hot tap off (room stat is not calling for heat), do you think the diverter valve is responsible?
No mate.
That’ll be a sensor calling.
If no demand for heating and hot water boiler is telling itself to fire.
@@dannyarcher cheers for the info mate, I had a feeling it might be something like that after I'd taken the diverter valve apart and replaced all the parts and the problem still there
@@stepheng180 unlikely but check the PRV and see if it’s wet.
You might have a split in the burner. But tbh I’d suggest getting gas safe registered fitter around. Goodluck.
Great video
Thanks!
Which App. As magnifier on phone 📱 ?
Nice One 👍
Thank you for sharing
New sub 👍🏻
Thank you!
@@advancedboilertraining New found appreciation for what you do 🙂
Badman!
Thanks
why not take off the side its a main boiler makes it a lot easier to work on it
💙👍🏽
Geeza
Always turn mains off
Great video