I built my first rear wheel last year of your last wheel build video. I've beaten the hell out of it and it's still going strong. I've put it back in the wheel stand a few times to check it, still true and still tight. I came back to watch that video again just for a refresh before I build my new front wheel with all the heavily discounted for January components that just arrived and found this gem.Thanks for your help. I watched just about every video I could find on youtube for my first build and yours is the one that took all the stress and mystery out of it. it really is simple and nothing to anybody should be put off trying.P.S your new just lacing record is 6min40sec
This is really great, so many how-to videos cut all the time and then when I try to do it I find out that either a step was skipped or there was helpful info in the transition between one step to another. I also liked the commentary as you did the video, it kept it interesting and made the build itself smoother. I think trying to talk would have distracted you and made the video longer!
Just replaced two broken spokes with the help of your last video :P I will definitely try myself on building my next wheel from the ground up with the help of your videos. I really like these technical videos teaching on how to build a bike :)
Thanks Ali, the video gave me the confidence to build and old, but still silky smooth, XT hub from a 26" MTB wheel into a new wheel for my CX/Road bike.
One precaution I'd strongly recommend is to put insulation tape around the rim to cover the spoke holes once the wheel has been laced. The first time a spoke will ever see it's working load is when you tighten it in the wheel. If it fails at this point it will fire straight out through the rim like an arrow. Given how much of the building time you spend with your eyes aligned with the rim it's pretty obvious where the danger is. Using good quality spokes means the chances of a failure are very low, but the 15 seconds it takes to put a strip of tape around the rim could be the best time you've ever spent if a spoke does fail. If you want to see this in action take a wheel you're done with and snip a few spokes and watch them fly. Another very handy trick I use for building wheels is to adjust in quarter turns, so the flat of the spoke nipple is parallel with the rim. This means you can visually inspect the wheel for loosening spokes. I also find that overshooting on tightening the spokes and then backing off to where I want to be can nearly eliminate windup in the spokes.
In regards to the radially laced question, I've got a 20" rim laced radially on the non-disk side, it's very solid but has actually stretched the hub outwards and the bearing will drop out if you remove the axle. It looks cool anyway.
Your other video helped me build several new sets of wheels for me and my friends. These tips are good too, although I could not imagine building a wheel without a tension meter, at least while I'm learning. The spokes can feel pretty close but the tension meter shows they are way out.
I do love a Chris King, I run a set on my mountain bike, but I don't think I'd run a set on my trials bike again though. They don't slip often but when they do they slip really bad, like I'm talking half a crank. I hope you have better luck than I did with mine 👍
I recommend to tighten spokes with rim tape on, especially if spokes are cheap or noname. Even good spokes are not explosion proof from overtightening. Once I've exploded cheapish Sapim Zinc, it shoot out near my leg.
Chris King hubs are better to look at than HD porn. I'm a brass nipple man, brass is softer and machines like butter, which means they're buttery smooth on those spoke threads too.If the spoke reaches to the other end of the nipple, then the tensile stresses are taken by the spoke, and only the flange on the nipple has to take the stresses. Wheelsmith Spoke Prep, Rock 'n' Roll Nipple Cream, or DT Swiss'/Loctite's collaboration spoke prep will be your friend too, as they provide lubrication but also work a bit like a very mild threadlock. For noobs, tension every 3rd spoke, it's a number that lets you go around the wheel a few times without missing any out, but makes it much harder to over-tension one part of the wheel compared to another, which helps with keeping the wheel both round and true.
@@simonadventures3727 I work at a bike shop. Spoke prep is still very expensive even at wholesale costs, but I don't pay for it, the shop does. If you work at a bike shop that doesn't give you access to these things for personal use (in personal time), then either you need to be getting paid a lot more, or you need a different job.
Rather than every 3rd spoke, it's better to start at the valve hole and tension each spoke (Or spokes on one side if you're adjusting the dishing) until you get back to the valve hole. Unless the spokes are very slack to begin with no more than one turn per spoke to get the wheel up to tension. Easier to take 2 or 3 extra trips around the wheel than to deal with a rim bent out of round because the first spokes you've tightened are getting the whole wheel to tension before the rest of the spoke have been adjusted at all, leaving some spokes very long relative to others.
Watched this over and over and it's helped me loads on building my wheels, if love to visit and get a personal lesson from you on how to improve my skills in building wheels
The corrosion on aluminium is different to steel. With steel the corrosion is brittle and flakes off and the steel will rust straight through until there is nothing left. When aluminium corrodes the corrosion forms a protective layer which prevents further corrosion. Even after 10 years in a damp shed aluminium will polish back up to a perfect shine with little effort so don't worry about using it in wet and muddy conditions.
unless you have two dissimilar metal in the presence of an electrolyte. Example. a Zinc anode on an aluminium boat hull in sea water. Or aluminium (aloominum) nipples on a carbon fibre (graphite) rim that is left wet after a muddy ride. The metal lower on the Galvanic Series table will corrode. Because graphite is at the top of the table and aluminium close to the bottom (ie very high "electrode potential") aluminium nipples will corrode quite aggressively in electrolytic conditions.
Have you tried Onyx hubs? I am lacing up a wheel now that will have me on Onyx hubs on ALL my bikes, I just enjoy the (true) instant engagement, smoothness and SILENCE 🙂
Ali, I saw on your fb build post that you appear to be using some fancy inner tubes similar to Tubolito? Initially I thought they were translucent valve stems but the lack of a lock nut indicates otherwise.
Regarding target spoke tension, the rim manufacturer will specify the max value, which you can then correlate to your tensiometer and make sure you don't exceed it. You'll be looking at the rim ERD spec when determining your spoke lengths anyway and that max tension should be listed, too. Example: Stan's Flow Mk3 rim max tension is 125KgF/1225N. Raceface's Arc 30 rim max tension is 122KgF/1200N. Light Bicycle EN732 rim max tension is 145KgF.
Great wheel build video. I think I maybe redoing my wheel building video I. The same way you edited this it's really very good. I build mine different to how you build yours though.
I dont want to test new technology - rides a nice looking wierd fork on his mtb. Nice video man, and i wouldnt want to test new tech on my trials bikes too, want it to work and no worries
@@Ali_Clarkson i know. I broke a chain in the first week of my new bike, while i was on the move of hopping to rear wheel down into an "abyss" (in my head).. didnt fell, but bought the most toughest chain i could find. Reliability is key
Congratulation for your new sponsor. I do like this one really waaaay more than the weird fork one. Building and fixing stuff is a really nice video format, that helps a lot. I am really heavy (265lbs), tall and strong and live in the alps. I decend and acend a ton. But I have never managed to brake one of my hubs (avergage shimano). What I did brake a lot is wheels. After your video I am considering building wheels for my normal MTB and using those wide Trial rims with holes and ballonmaterial in them. Is there a reason not to use them? Since I am a Monster myself, I don’t really mind that little extra weight.
@@Ali_Clarkson I wanted to use them, because I thought they must be stronger. What else is the criterion. Currently I use 36Spokes double walled aluminium rims. They are ok so far, but I did break similar ones in the past.
@@Ali_Clarkson Thx. I am going to have a look on that. Carbon is a nogo. I have seen to many horrible carbon crashes. I will NEVER buy carbon. But I for sure will ask my collegue to check out the different alloy properties for me ( he is an engineer) .
Spoke length calulation: The effective rim ϕ is quite critical. Don’t always believe the manufacturers given ϕ and measure if you can. It is the diameter of the wheel including the end of the spoke which has to be inside the rim at the end of the nipple: it can be either at the bottom of the screwdriver slot or the top of it, but it has to be inside the rim. It is not the bead seat ϕ which is the diameter of where the tyre sits. It is not 700c, 622mm, or 27.5”, 584mm, or whatever. These the bead seat diameters of the tyre. Below that point, the rim can do whatever it wants depending on profile. However the hub flange ϕ and hub width can be out by maybe 3 mm before it makes a noticeable difference to spoke length. Before online calculators, it was normal for tables from the likes of Sutherland ( and Ron Kitching too I think) to group hubs into flange diameters per general diameter. If the spoke is too short, not all the threads are used and you have the hollow tube of the unfilled nipple holding your wheel together which isn’t strong. It’s OK if the spoke is a slightly too long, maybe by a mm or 2, but it mustn’t pierce the tube. The actions of wheel building are very repetitive. You will get a good feel for the tension through the spoke key. Crossing: A wheel is a compromise between the springiness of the wheel, which is up and down, and the transmission of driving force along, which is at right angles. Think of it like this: it gets complicated as the optimum for one is the weakest point for the other. It’s exactly like twanging a ruler by its face then trying to do the same from its edge. So crossing exists to compromise. Radial is ideal for front and was great with rim brakes on front suspension. It is a very stiff wheel, forces are end on but if you tried it on the rear, you would snap spokes as they twisted. 2 Cross is fairly stiff and can be used for rear wheels on the drive side with radial off side. This is a stiff, maximum energy transfer racing set up. 4 cross is springier than 3, and more comfortable, but not as fast. 4 cross is ideal for heavy touring. The difference between 3 and 4 cross in reality is what spokes are available.
Hey Ali we know that magura mt7 is great but Can you do a proper review and testing on Mt7 brakes compare to other brakes you've test/tried like the Shimano Saint you use on your merida rear brake Thanks!!!
couple of questions if you do not mind... 1. some times sleeved rims are pretty hard to make it round at the joint... any advice how to deal with it? 2. what tolerance for spoke tension will be "good enough" for you?
Hello bud. I recently purchased a set of Arc MT006 hubs, 100/135 QR. I'm currently preparing for a wheel and need to figure out the correct spoke lengths. I'm using the WTB KOM light i25 rims with an ERD of 604mm. (Rim weight: 455g) I've been told that you should add about 3mm to the rim ERD to account for the spoke nipples, which =707. Is that a correct practice? How much should I add to the rim to account for the nipple? The technical diagram available for the Arc MT006 is a bit confusing, and I can't seem to figure out what the correct flange circle diameter is. The measurements I input where. Front hub: 32H, lacing 3x, weight:160g Width 100mm. PCD: 58/45, Nut to Flange: 28.1/ 13.7, Nut to center: 21/36.3. Rear hub: 32H, lacing 3x, weight 240g, width 135mm, PCD: 58/44, nut to Flange: 31.57/48.15, Flange to centre: 36/20. The hub uses 14G spokes. Recommended nipple length is 12mm? When using the DT Swiss calculator the total recommended spoke lengths come out at, Front (L/R): 293mm/294mm. Rear (L/R): 294mm/295mm. Could you possibly tell me if I have gone about the calculation correctly?
this will probably be one of the things that i'll leave up to my bike shop. I've watched your wheel build video twice and this one once and my brain still hurts and i have no desire to want to learn how to do this. :(
I'm building a set of wheels laced as a 3 cross pattern. I've had trouble with some spokes being too short and some being too long, on both sides of both wheels. I've checked and rechecked the spoke lengths on several calculators and that all seems to be correct (spoke lengths are the calculated to be all the same length). I have also check the lacing pattern and it seems to be right and consistent. There is a pattern to the problem so this suggests to me a lacing issue (the pattern is: 2 spokes too long, 2 spokes too short, 2 spokes too long, 2 spokes too short and so on all the way around the rim.). I am wondering whether by rotating the hub after lacing the first 2 sides of 8 spokes, this has caused an issue (ie. can I rotate it too far?). Or, perhaps I should re lace them (for the fourth time) and try elbows facing the opposite sides as this may also slightly effect length (I have read Sheldon Brown's article on elbow direction). Ali, or anyone else, help?
where can one find this tarty bikes spoke calculator? we used to use a DT poster with length tables at the shop i worked at, but i no longer work there and miss the poster.
Hi, only one question, I'd like build a durable wheelset for enduro. I've already build 3 wheelset but always 3 cross pattern. This one I would like a more reactive wheel. I think I will use a light bicycle's rim. What do you think about two cross pattern? and in case is better a 28 or 32 holes rim? many thanks
Hello Ali, I was wondering if a 28h 3x with tapered 14-13g sapim spokes is strong enough for the back wheel on a 26" or 24" pure trials bike? I dont drop over 1 meter and my weight is only 70kg.. This versus a 32h 3x with 15g sapim spokes.
I'm definitely going to use your guide to lace my new free coaster wheel. Is there anything wrong with cutting the spokes down a small bit? Like buy a size thats a few mm too long and cut some thread off?
@@Ali_Clarkson ideally I will be able to get the right spokes I was just hoping a near enough with a small trim could work. I wanna support my local but they wanna charge me 200$ to build the wheel when I've had a previous shop do it for 30$
Good day sir, could i ask a question? Does it necessary for the spoke to be overlapping with the rim? Lately i do wheelbuild, changing my spokes to butted once. Previous spokes were 294 in length and using 12mm nipples. What i used recently were a 289mm spokes paired with a 16mm nipples.
Also as i checked. 12mm nipples has only 8mm working thread(minus the upper shank ang the lower slot for screw drive) and it all locked in all the spoke thread. While 16mm nipple has a 14mm thread, but only 6 to 8mm was only gripped or lock on the spokes. Is it okay or do i need to change to previous spoke. The problem with the previos spoke is that it bottom out on the nipples and spoke tension is somehow slack.
Yoo, the link in the description to the other video isn't working. It says "this video isn't available anymore". Anyone know where I can find that vid?
FYI. Straight pull really limits your build. You cannot chose how many crosses you can make. That is set by the hub you have as the spoke hole is machined to a set angle.
Hey Ali, nice explanatory. I’ve been riding my current bike for about a year now. Recently, I snapped a sapim laser spoke, at the j hook. (So at the thick section) I replaced it, and everything was fine for about 500kms. Then the exact same thing happened. What could be the problem here? The wheel has been built by a professional.
If the wheel wasn't stress relieved (The part where you stand on the spokes), it will fatigue more quickly as it's bedding into the hub over time rather than being forced to bed in by being overloaded temporarily.
@@bjorne46 Professional just means they were paid to do the job. The bike industry is full of people who have learned to fix bikes from people who also don't understand the engineering behind them. Being a bike mechanic pays so badly that almost anyone who understands the advanced stuff is also smart enough to realise they are more than able for much better paying jobs that will allow them to afford more bikes (And a decent standard of living), and have more time to ride their bikes too.
How do you know whether you should do a 3 or 4 cross build I mean if you dont calculate the spoke length how to know what cross build exactly you should do??!?!?!
4 cross on 32 hole wheels often means that one spoke will cross over the head of the one next to it, which makes replacing individual spokes a nightmare. 3 cross is the best combination of torsional and lateral strength in most 32 hole wheels. 4 cross is usually okay on a 36 spoke wheel, but in most cases spotting the difference in the feel of the wheel is almost impossible, and 3 cross tends to be easier to lace.
It depends if your running mullet, if you have a 29 in the front and a 27.5 on the back, the front is gonna have longer then the back, if you have the same size wheels front and back, you have to know if your rear hub is a single speed or one that uses the cassette(the thing with alot of sprockets at the back) sometimes single speeds using same length spokes as front, but sometimes they have different spoke lengths on the left and right side of the wheel like on a cassette hub, also how many crosses your running on your wheel, the wheels could be same size but lets say the one wheel is a 29inch with a 4 cross and the other one is also a 29inch wheel but its a 2cross,the 4 cross is gonna have longer length spokes then the 2 cross So there are a few things to factor in, these are the things I know of but their could be more
Your in depth wheel build video isn't visible any more. That video taught me how to build wheels. I like to refresh myself with it ever now and again. 😭 Keep up the great videos!
I built my first rear wheel last year of your last wheel build video. I've beaten the hell out of it and it's still going strong. I've put it back in the wheel stand a few times to check it, still true and still tight. I came back to watch that video again just for a refresh before I build my new front wheel with all the heavily discounted for January components that just arrived and found this gem.Thanks for your help. I watched just about every video I could find on youtube for my first build and yours is the one that took all the stress and mystery out of it. it really is simple and nothing to anybody should be put off trying.P.S your new just lacing record is 6min40sec
This is really great, so many how-to videos cut all the time and then when I try to do it I find out that either a step was skipped or there was helpful info in the transition between one step to another. I also liked the commentary as you did the video, it kept it interesting and made the build itself smoother. I think trying to talk would have distracted you and made the video longer!
Perfect timing on this vid, just about to recieve all the bits for my first ever full wheel build.
Love the sound of ck and the engagement piont of this hub.
Just replaced two broken spokes with the help of your last video :P
I will definitely try myself on building my next wheel from the ground up with the help of your videos.
I really like these technical videos teaching on how to build a bike :)
Great video Ali, loved the format of answering questions and a build video, thanks for answering mine and other peoples really useful questions!
This video was GREAT! Absolutely Inspirational....I now enough wind beneath my wings to start pricing out wheel components.
Thanks Ali, the video gave me the confidence to build and old, but still silky smooth, XT hub from a 26" MTB wheel into a new wheel for my CX/Road bike.
We used your last video to build up a wheel. Really helped!
As my 9yr old said on your insta . I follow your last wheel build vid whenever I build our wheels so gotta watch this.
I am training for my pratical test as a bike mechanic where i have to build a very good wheel in under 35 Minutes (best trueness category is
One precaution I'd strongly recommend is to put insulation tape around the rim to cover the spoke holes once the wheel has been laced. The first time a spoke will ever see it's working load is when you tighten it in the wheel. If it fails at this point it will fire straight out through the rim like an arrow. Given how much of the building time you spend with your eyes aligned with the rim it's pretty obvious where the danger is. Using good quality spokes means the chances of a failure are very low, but the 15 seconds it takes to put a strip of tape around the rim could be the best time you've ever spent if a spoke does fail. If you want to see this in action take a wheel you're done with and snip a few spokes and watch them fly.
Another very handy trick I use for building wheels is to adjust in quarter turns, so the flat of the spoke nipple is parallel with the rim. This means you can visually inspect the wheel for loosening spokes. I also find that overshooting on tightening the spokes and then backing off to where I want to be can nearly eliminate windup in the spokes.
In regards to the radially laced question, I've got a 20" rim laced radially on the non-disk side, it's very solid but has actually stretched the hub outwards and the bearing will drop out if you remove the axle. It looks cool anyway.
Your other video helped me build several new sets of wheels for me and my friends. These tips are good too, although I could not imagine building a wheel without a tension meter, at least while I'm learning. The spokes can feel pretty close but the tension meter shows they are way out.
I do love a Chris King, I run a set on my mountain bike, but I don't think I'd run a set on my trials bike again though. They don't slip often but when they do they slip really bad, like I'm talking half a crank. I hope you have better luck than I did with mine 👍
totally awesome video. so much information coming at me at all times, I couldn't look away. cheers
I recommend to tighten spokes with rim tape on, especially if spokes are cheap or noname. Even good spokes are not explosion proof from overtightening. Once I've exploded cheapish Sapim Zinc, it shoot out near my leg.
Chris King hubs are better to look at than HD porn.
I'm a brass nipple man, brass is softer and machines like butter, which means they're buttery smooth on those spoke threads too.If the spoke reaches to the other end of the nipple, then the tensile stresses are taken by the spoke, and only the flange on the nipple has to take the stresses. Wheelsmith Spoke Prep, Rock 'n' Roll Nipple Cream, or DT Swiss'/Loctite's collaboration spoke prep will be your friend too, as they provide lubrication but also work a bit like a very mild threadlock.
For noobs, tension every 3rd spoke, it's a number that lets you go around the wheel a few times without missing any out, but makes it much harder to over-tension one part of the wheel compared to another, which helps with keeping the wheel both round and true.
@@simonadventures3727 I work at a bike shop. Spoke prep is still very expensive even at wholesale costs, but I don't pay for it, the shop does. If you work at a bike shop that doesn't give you access to these things for personal use (in personal time), then either you need to be getting paid a lot more, or you need a different job.
Rather than every 3rd spoke, it's better to start at the valve hole and tension each spoke (Or spokes on one side if you're adjusting the dishing) until you get back to the valve hole. Unless the spokes are very slack to begin with no more than one turn per spoke to get the wheel up to tension. Easier to take 2 or 3 extra trips around the wheel than to deal with a rim bent out of round because the first spokes you've tightened are getting the whole wheel to tension before the rest of the spoke have been adjusted at all, leaving some spokes very long relative to others.
Watched this over and over and it's helped me loads on building my wheels, if love to visit and get a personal lesson from you on how to improve my skills in building wheels
The corrosion on aluminium is different to steel. With steel the corrosion is brittle and flakes off and the steel will rust straight through until there is nothing left. When aluminium corrodes the corrosion forms a protective layer which prevents further corrosion. Even after 10 years in a damp shed aluminium will polish back up to a perfect shine with little effort so don't worry about using it in wet and muddy conditions.
3SecondsFromDeath ever heard of dissimilar metal corrosion?
unless you have two dissimilar metal in the presence of an electrolyte. Example. a Zinc anode on an aluminium boat hull in sea water. Or aluminium (aloominum) nipples on a carbon fibre (graphite) rim that is left wet after a muddy ride. The metal lower on the Galvanic Series table will corrode. Because graphite is at the top of the table and aluminium close to the bottom (ie very high "electrode potential") aluminium nipples will corrode quite aggressively in electrolytic conditions.
I wish I can build a wheel that quick it will take me ages lol great video Ali
Dishness is my new favorite word. :-D Thanks for the great video, I'm looking forward to trying wheelbuilding this year- you've talked me into it!
Sick wheel set love that rear hub sounds sick where it fades out
Have you tried Onyx hubs? I am lacing up a wheel now that will have me on Onyx hubs on ALL my bikes, I just enjoy the (true) instant engagement, smoothness and SILENCE 🙂
Exellent helpfull vid, thanks for posting,
Ali, I saw on your fb build post that you appear to be using some fancy inner tubes similar to Tubolito? Initially I thought they were translucent valve stems but the lack of a lock nut indicates otherwise.
Regarding target spoke tension, the rim manufacturer will specify the max value, which you can then correlate to your tensiometer and make sure you don't exceed it. You'll be looking at the rim ERD spec when determining your spoke lengths anyway and that max tension should be listed, too. Example: Stan's Flow Mk3 rim max tension is 125KgF/1225N. Raceface's Arc 30 rim max tension is 122KgF/1200N. Light Bicycle EN732 rim max tension is 145KgF.
hi great video, do you use same length spokes or different lengths left to right to maintain the center?
Big fan of King hubs! 👍🏻
amazing wheels, looks awesome, enjoying !!!
Great wheel build video. I think I maybe redoing my wheel building video I. The same way you edited this it's really very good.
I build mine different to how you build yours though.
I dont want to test new technology - rides a nice looking wierd fork on his mtb. Nice video man, and i wouldnt want to test new tech on my trials bikes too, want it to work and no worries
@@Ali_Clarkson i know. I broke a chain in the first week of my new bike, while i was on the move of hopping to rear wheel down into an "abyss" (in my head).. didnt fell, but bought the most toughest chain i could find. Reliability is key
Congratulation for your new sponsor. I do like this one really waaaay more than the weird fork one. Building and fixing stuff is a really nice video format, that helps a lot. I am really heavy (265lbs), tall and strong and live in the alps. I decend and acend a ton. But I have never managed to brake one of my hubs (avergage shimano). What I did brake a lot is wheels.
After your video I am considering building wheels for my normal MTB and using those wide Trial rims with holes and ballonmaterial in them. Is there a reason not to use them? Since I am a Monster myself, I don’t really mind that little extra weight.
@@Ali_Clarkson I wanted to use them, because I thought they must be stronger. What else is the criterion. Currently I use 36Spokes double walled aluminium rims. They are ok so far, but I did break similar ones in the past.
@@Ali_Clarkson Thx. I am going to have a look on that. Carbon is a nogo. I have seen to many horrible carbon crashes. I will NEVER buy carbon. But I for sure will ask my collegue to check out the different alloy properties for me ( he is an engineer) .
Spoke length calulation:
The effective rim ϕ is quite critical. Don’t always believe the manufacturers given ϕ and measure if you can. It is the diameter of the wheel including the end of the spoke which has to be inside the rim at the end of the nipple: it can be either at the bottom of the screwdriver slot or the top of it, but it has to be inside the rim. It is not the bead seat ϕ which is the diameter of where the tyre sits. It is not 700c, 622mm, or 27.5”, 584mm, or whatever. These the bead seat diameters of the tyre. Below that point, the rim can do whatever it wants depending on profile.
However the hub flange ϕ and hub width can be out by maybe 3 mm before it makes a noticeable difference to spoke length. Before online calculators, it was normal for tables from the likes of Sutherland ( and Ron Kitching too I think) to group hubs into flange diameters per general diameter.
If the spoke is too short, not all the threads are used and you have the hollow tube of the unfilled nipple holding your wheel together which isn’t strong. It’s OK if the spoke is a slightly too long, maybe by a mm or 2, but it mustn’t pierce the tube.
The actions of wheel building are very repetitive. You will get a good feel for the tension through the spoke key.
Crossing:
A wheel is a compromise between the springiness of the wheel, which is up and down, and the transmission of driving force along, which is at right angles. Think of it like this: it gets complicated as the optimum for one is the weakest point for the other. It’s exactly like twanging a ruler by its face then trying to do the same from its edge.
So crossing exists to compromise. Radial is ideal for front and was great with rim brakes on front suspension. It is a very stiff wheel, forces are end on but if you tried it on the rear, you would snap spokes as they twisted. 2 Cross is fairly stiff and can be used for rear wheels on the drive side with radial off side. This is a stiff, maximum energy transfer racing set up. 4 cross is springier than 3, and more comfortable, but not as fast. 4 cross is ideal for heavy touring. The difference between 3 and 4 cross in reality is what spokes are available.
Love the videos if you got a spair rear 12mm through hub send it my way lol
Thanks for a detailed video- very clear and helpfull uU R PRO!!!
Good video! Really exited to see you riding the wheels!
Hey Ali we know that magura mt7 is great but Can you do a proper review and testing on Mt7 brakes compare to other brakes you've test/tried like the Shimano Saint you use on your merida rear brake Thanks!!!
Thanks
Good Video
Question
Building a Sun Ringle Duroc 35 Rim 29er - 28 Hole
3 Cross or 2 cross ?
Hub - Novatech
Do newly laced wheels (my complete wheel) creak and pop when they are settling in? Huge fan from 🇺🇸
Great video once more.
Hey Ali Clarkson! Awesome vid! Do you build Danny McCaskill's wheels? Ride ride ride!
Eric M in one of his previous videos I think he mentioned that he does or he used to
couple of questions if you do not mind... 1. some times sleeved rims are pretty hard to make it round at the joint... any advice how to deal with it? 2. what tolerance for spoke tension will be "good enough" for you?
25MIN VERY GOOD
Nice wheel builder
Cheers 🤘
i do proline at windhill with ti spokes and they’re fine, never snapped or put out of true
Hello bud. I recently purchased a set of Arc MT006 hubs, 100/135 QR. I'm currently preparing for a wheel and need to figure out the correct spoke lengths. I'm using the WTB KOM light i25 rims with an ERD of 604mm. (Rim weight: 455g) I've been told that you should add about 3mm to the rim ERD to account for the spoke nipples, which =707. Is that a correct practice? How much should I add to the rim to account for the nipple? The technical diagram available for the Arc MT006 is a bit confusing, and I can't seem to figure out what the correct flange circle diameter is. The measurements I input where. Front hub: 32H, lacing 3x, weight:160g Width 100mm. PCD: 58/45, Nut to Flange: 28.1/ 13.7, Nut to center: 21/36.3.
Rear hub: 32H, lacing 3x, weight 240g, width 135mm, PCD: 58/44, nut to Flange: 31.57/48.15, Flange to centre: 36/20. The hub uses 14G spokes. Recommended nipple length is 12mm? When using the DT Swiss calculator the total recommended spoke lengths come out at, Front (L/R): 293mm/294mm. Rear (L/R): 294mm/295mm. Could you possibly tell me if I have gone about the calculation correctly?
Do you have a video on buiding assymetric rims?
this will probably be one of the things that i'll leave up to my bike shop. I've watched your wheel build video twice and this one once and my brain still hurts and i have no desire to want to learn how to do this. :(
I'm building a set of wheels laced as a 3 cross pattern. I've had trouble with some spokes being too short and some being too long, on both sides of both wheels. I've checked and rechecked the spoke lengths on several calculators and that all seems to be correct (spoke lengths are the calculated to be all the same length). I have also check the lacing pattern and it seems to be right and consistent. There is a pattern to the problem so this suggests to me a lacing issue (the pattern is: 2 spokes too long, 2 spokes too short, 2 spokes too long, 2 spokes too short and so on all the way around the rim.). I am wondering whether by rotating the hub after lacing the first 2 sides of 8 spokes, this has caused an issue (ie. can I rotate it too far?). Or, perhaps I should re lace them (for the fourth time) and try elbows facing the opposite sides as this may also slightly effect length (I have read Sheldon Brown's article on elbow direction). Ali, or anyone else, help?
yep alllll true hahaa forgive the pun i can tell you love it! as much as me love building wheels good vid.
Thx for this video. Very interesting :-)
where can one find this tarty bikes spoke calculator? we used to use a DT poster with length tables at the shop i worked at, but i no longer work there and miss the poster.
Hi, only one question, I'd like build a durable wheelset for enduro. I've already build 3 wheelset but always 3 cross pattern. This one I would like a more reactive wheel. I think I will use a light bicycle's rim. What do you think about two cross pattern? and in case is better a 28 or 32 holes rim? many thanks
Hello Ali, I was wondering if a 28h 3x with tapered 14-13g sapim spokes is strong enough for the back wheel on a 26" or 24" pure trials bike?
I dont drop over 1 meter and my weight is only 70kg.. This versus a 32h 3x with 15g sapim spokes.
I'm definitely going to use your guide to lace my new free coaster wheel.
Is there anything wrong with cutting the spokes down a small bit?
Like buy a size thats a few mm too long and cut some thread off?
@@Ali_Clarkson ideally I will be able to get the right spokes I was just hoping a near enough with a small trim could work.
I wanna support my local but they wanna charge me 200$ to build the wheel when I've had a previous shop do it for 30$
I lace front and rear. But im having problem in the rear.. There are spokes coming out of the rims and go through the nipples.
Hey! Love your vids
Hi there,
Why use 28 spoke carbon wheel vs 32 spoke Carbon wheel on 29er or vicea versa?
Rider weight a factor?
Thank you
Cool!
Mark, can ye please stop disliking the videos?🤣
Good day sir, could i ask a question? Does it necessary for the spoke to be overlapping with the rim? Lately i do wheelbuild, changing my spokes to butted once. Previous spokes were 294 in length and using 12mm nipples. What i used recently were a 289mm spokes paired with a 16mm nipples.
My current build, the spokes float around 5mm, unable to meet the rim when fully laced.
Also as i checked. 12mm nipples has only 8mm working thread(minus the upper shank ang the lower slot for screw drive) and it all locked in all the spoke thread.
While 16mm nipple has a 14mm thread, but only 6 to 8mm was only gripped or lock on the spokes.
Is it okay or do i need to change to previous spoke. The problem with the previos spoke is that it bottom out on the nipples and spoke tension is somehow slack.
I do basic XC
Can you reuse the spokes to replace the rear hub with new hub?
Do you still have that 24” with the freecoaster?
so what's your opinion on onyx hubs
Yoo, the link in the description to the other video isn't working. It says "this video isn't available anymore". Anyone know where I can find that vid?
Hey bud you still building wheels for inspired ?
I’ve got a straight pull wheelset needing built ;)
Ali Clarkson chicken 🐓 😝
FYI. Straight pull really limits your build. You cannot chose how many crosses you can make. That is set by the hub you have as the spoke hole is machined to a set angle.
Sorry that's for anyone asking about straight pull. Not directed only to Ali.
Oh, and the mandatory 2nd!, and the wheels look dope are they part of the new biker porn site RimHub?
Hey Ali, nice explanatory.
I’ve been riding my current bike for about a year now.
Recently, I snapped a sapim laser spoke, at the j hook. (So at the thick section)
I replaced it, and everything was fine for about 500kms.
Then the exact same thing happened.
What could be the problem here?
The wheel has been built by a professional.
If the wheel wasn't stress relieved (The part where you stand on the spokes), it will fatigue more quickly as it's bedding into the hub over time rather than being forced to bed in by being overloaded temporarily.
Well I’m not sure if that has been done, but as said it was built by a professional.
@@bjorne46 Professional just means they were paid to do the job. The bike industry is full of people who have learned to fix bikes from people who also don't understand the engineering behind them. Being a bike mechanic pays so badly that almost anyone who understands the advanced stuff is also smart enough to realise they are more than able for much better paying jobs that will allow them to afford more bikes (And a decent standard of living), and have more time to ride their bikes too.
How do you know whether you should do a 3 or 4 cross build
I mean if you dont calculate the spoke length how to know what cross build exactly you should do??!?!?!
@@Ali_Clarkson Thanks that makes much more sence
4 cross on 32 hole wheels often means that one spoke will cross over the head of the one next to it, which makes replacing individual spokes a nightmare. 3 cross is the best combination of torsional and lateral strength in most 32 hole wheels. 4 cross is usually okay on a 36 spoke wheel, but in most cases spotting the difference in the feel of the wheel is almost impossible, and 3 cross tends to be easier to lace.
English with brain 👌🏻👌🏻
Just hit 42 minutes for full wheel trued and dished......I might get faster if I had a truing stand instead of an old fork :)
Looking good! Super handsome
are v brakes still good on a trials bike
can you use 36 hole hub to 24 hole rim??
anbas muinto top aki no brasil muinto raro encontrar
7:21 link? cant seem to find it
Cool as
Same 360g rim front and rear?
@@Ali_Clarkson Yesss! I've been wanting to try that for years!
Hi sir. Are front and rear spokes are the same sizes?
different
It depends if your running mullet, if you have a 29 in the front and a 27.5 on the back, the front is gonna have longer then the back, if you have the same size wheels front and back, you have to know if your rear hub is a single speed or one that uses the cassette(the thing with alot of sprockets at the back) sometimes single speeds using same length spokes as front, but sometimes they have different spoke lengths on the left and right side of the wheel like on a cassette hub, also how many crosses your running on your wheel, the wheels could be same size but lets say the one wheel is a 29inch with a 4 cross and the other one is also a 29inch wheel but its a 2cross,the 4 cross is gonna have longer length spokes then the 2 cross
So there are a few things to factor in, these are the things I know of but their could be more
Your in depth wheel build video isn't visible any more. That video taught me how to build wheels. I like to refresh myself with it ever now and again. 😭 Keep up the great videos!
Are you sure? I just watched it!
@@Xellinho you are right. Found it, the link in this description doesn't work is all.