Man it's nice to hear a product review from a fellow engineer who's articulate, well spoken and uses the correct terminology for everything discussed throughout the review. Great job, man!
I have the 1200 PA…..I’m 99.9% sure it’s the only 8 injector system. Grounds, grounds, grounds…..can’t have enough and clean is important Autometer makes a nice in-line electronic fuel pressure gauge that you can put inside the car to monitor the pressure. Connects in between AN line and no fuel line going inside the car.
You're probably right. I always have trouble remembering what units have what injectors. The MeanStreet might be 8, because I know its only 43psi. In a later video, I installed an Autometer electronic fuel pressure gauge.
@@mechtrician1 Also forgot to mention, the constant 12v wire is what holds the “learn memory”. If/when the battery is disconnected, the memory is lost. In my case, I have a rear disconnect switch, and it’s used regularly….making it an issue. I ran my 12v wire directly to the battery in the trunk. When my switch is disconnected, I’m not turning off the memory to the FiTech….did the same for radio memory.
Thanks. Nope. I have not had a Fitech injector failure. They are pretty good. They usually fail because people are not careful enough with cleanliness if the system or they don’t run the right filter. Fitech makes their own injectors so swapping them involves a little bit of work.
Thank you for the video. I wish I had seen this a year ago when I set up my unit. Could you please list the parts you used for the fuel pressure gauge.
Clean looking setup you have there! I have a 600hp FiTech on a 400SBC. I had an ECU go out as well. Stuck at work, wouldn't start! Codes were showing all injectors were bad. I live in so cal as well so I was able to drive there and they replaced it for me. My IAC is set at 3 and I have 58psi fuel pressure, but I have a flat spot when punching the throttle. Like it's getting too much fuel. Any ideas?
Thank you! Have you run a log on it under that condition? If not, run a log and capture it. You’ll be able to see what’s happening. Could be fuel or too slow timing advance.
I'm having a real hard time finding your little fuel Guage pieces. Not gonna be running a electronic yet but would like to buy those pieces to help troubleshoot. Any chance you have the part numbers for them?
Great video , thanks for sharing. I am curious to your thoughts about your spacer...do you think a "Aluminum" spacer would do the same job cutting the heat down to the ECM as the "wood/composite" space did ? Why did you go with the 1/2" and not the 1" spacer ?
Thank you. Aluminum is much more conductive than phenolic or wood, so I'd stick with them. You want as much insulation as possible. I chose 1/2" only because of hood clearance issues. Otherwise I would have used 1".
@@mechtrician1 thanks for your reply. Did you use a 4hole or open ? I putting a motor together using the air gap intake and the FiTech Easy Street 31005 so I'm curious about allot of things I guess LoL
What would we do without the UA-cam channel? The problem with my Fitch unit turned out to be just what you described, a poor ground. I added a spacer for heat reduction and sanded a clear spot on the base and used four star washers. My problem with the pendant went away! Thank you
got the fitech 30005 and when initial frist start up i got it to run but for some reason i can not turn it off with my key i had to disconect the plug from my distributor..i have my white wire going to my fuse box to ignition fuse and my blue wire going to my green wire from my distributor which is my tach wire... i have a hei dis. and 355 small block 1990 k5 blazer...it wont shut down with the key off...my pump is in the tank
That’s a pretty big cam. These systems can typically handle it though. Your idle vacuum is probably going to be in the tank though. Depends on the lift, overlap, duration @.050. Etc.
I would like to find someone that has some ballpark figures for a 1200hp Fitech on a cammed out 540BBC in 72 Chevelle with TKO5-speed, I cant get the IAC steps to stay between 3&10, either over or under, And cannot get the idle to drop from 850/900rpm, The IAC is working and no codes, dosnt matter what i put in controller, going to try 400 rpms to see if does anything, There are no vacuum leaks,,
Are you a member of the Fitech forums on Facebook? Lot's of good info (as well as some questionable info, but mostly good) on there. There are several things that can cause the IAC to be unstable.
@@mechtrician1 ok thanks. One last question. I'm running an in tank pump. Would the sock on the in tank pump be good enough with the 10 micron filter b4 the unit?
Question ..... I just purchased a FiTech 30008 MeanStreet 800 for my BBC 540 stroker motor that is on an airboat. I am having trouble trying to find the fuel pump requirement as far as max psi, flow rate, and PSI during flow. Looking for an external inline fuel pump. I currently do not have a return line on my fuel tank. Is it required to have a return line? Can I get away without it? I'm right at 700HP/TQ at 5k RPM Is there a specific Bosch 044 inline fuel pump that you would recommend?
With your motor, you need at least 300lph. The 044 is only good for 255lph. I have heard great things about the Aeromotive pumps. I’d look at the A1000.
I really need to add this to the video description. It’s pieced together as follows: 9/16-24 male to -6an male adapter, -6an female to 1/8npt male adapter, 1/8 npt elbow, to the gauge.
I have the same system and I switched from an inline pump. I now have the Fitech intake pump and it is 340 lpm. My issue is when I press the gas my system goes dead. Any input of what it might be. I am going to make changes based on this video to see if it helps.
Have you checked your fuel pressure with the new pump? Just FYI, the Fitech’s regulator struggles a little bit with a 340lph pump. It’s a bit much for it. They do much better with 255. Unless you need the 340, I’d stay with 255 or you need to externally regulate.
@@terrysmith2032 yeah. It will “work” but depending how much fuel the engine is consuming, it might not have enough return capacity. If your fuel pressure is correct though, it’s not your problem.
I have a Go efi 400hp. Ran great one day, next day super rich. After looking called Fitech , they suggested vacuum leak. I've sprayed starter fluid around throttle body and nothing. I'm stumped, would hate to go back to a carburetor. Any suggestions. Thanks
Extremely rich can be a few things. Make sure your fuel pressure is correct. Should be 43psi on a 400 unit. Could be an exhaust leak, and could be an injector stuck open. Any of those can manifest after cooling down and starting the next day.
FITech is shit and I wouldn't put it on a lawn mower if it was given to me! This coming from a 36 year ASE certified Master auto tech with L1 advanced engine performance cert. To easily interfeared with by electronic noise and uses crappy VW fuel pressure regulators. Not to even mention 3 bad injectors on the first one I installed as well as multiple bad fuel pumps. I would trust a Temu fuel injection system more than one of these turds. Oh did I mention the 2 bad control units also as well as the ecm. After all of that the ECM failed again in 4k miles. The customer finally gave up and bought a Holley system. Zero issues since. On a 455 Olds.
Man it's nice to hear a product review from a fellow engineer who's articulate, well spoken and uses the correct terminology for everything discussed throughout the review. Great job, man!
Hey man, thanks. I appreciate the positive feedback!
Nice job. Great idea on the spacer. I did one of the "GloShift" FP gauges and has worked great. Was pretty cheap and being electronic easy install.
Put a 4 micron filter near the tank on original fuel filter spot. Haven’t had a problem. Can only filter fuel so much lol…..
Nice clean underhood work my freind!
I have the 1200 PA…..I’m 99.9% sure it’s the only 8 injector system.
Grounds, grounds, grounds…..can’t have enough and clean is important
Autometer makes a nice in-line electronic fuel pressure gauge that you can put inside the car to monitor the pressure. Connects in between AN line and no fuel line going inside the car.
You're probably right. I always have trouble remembering what units have what injectors. The MeanStreet might be 8, because I know its only 43psi. In a later video, I installed an Autometer electronic fuel pressure gauge.
@@mechtrician1
Also forgot to mention, the constant 12v wire is what holds the “learn memory”. If/when the battery is disconnected, the memory is lost.
In my case, I have a rear disconnect switch, and it’s used regularly….making it an issue. I ran my 12v wire directly to the battery in the trunk. When my switch is disconnected, I’m not turning off the memory to the FiTech….did the same for radio memory.
I have the meanstreet 800. It's also an 8 injector system.
Great video! Do you also replace the injectors for higher quality ones? Delco?
Thanks. Nope. I have not had a Fitech injector failure. They are pretty good. They usually fail because people are not careful enough with cleanliness if the system or they don’t run the right filter. Fitech makes their own injectors so swapping them involves a little bit of work.
Thank you for the video. I wish I had seen this a year ago when I set up my unit. Could you please list the parts you used for the fuel pressure gauge.
The adapter is a 9/16-24 male to -6an male, to female -6an to male 1/8” npt, to female 1/8” npt elbow to a gauge.
@mechtrician1 where can I find this parts and the regulator as well please
Clean looking setup you have there!
I have a 600hp FiTech on a 400SBC. I had an ECU go out as well. Stuck at work, wouldn't start! Codes were showing all injectors were bad. I live in so cal as well so I was able to drive there and they replaced it for me. My IAC is set at 3 and I have 58psi fuel pressure, but I have a flat spot when punching the throttle. Like it's getting too much fuel. Any ideas?
Thank you! Have you run a log on it under that condition? If not, run a log and capture it. You’ll be able to see what’s happening. Could be fuel or too slow timing advance.
I'm having a real hard time finding your little fuel Guage pieces. Not gonna be running a electronic yet but would like to buy those pieces to help troubleshoot. Any chance you have the part numbers for them?
Your work looks Good. 👍👍👍
Great video , thanks for sharing. I am curious to your thoughts about your spacer...do you think a "Aluminum" spacer would do the same job cutting the heat down to the ECM as the "wood/composite" space did ? Why did you go with the 1/2" and not the 1" spacer ?
Thank you. Aluminum is much more conductive than phenolic or wood, so I'd stick with them. You want as much insulation as possible. I chose 1/2" only because of hood clearance issues. Otherwise I would have used 1".
@@mechtrician1 thanks for your reply. Did you use a 4hole or open ? I putting a motor together using the air gap intake and the FiTech Easy Street 31005 so I'm curious about allot of things I guess LoL
@@darrell67ohio open. I think the units work better with them open.
Great video my brother that engine looks good and sound good what size cam you have in there I like to see a video of your car😊
Great tips Bro!
Great video.
Awsome video. Ya I was thinking it was going to be easier going fitec but it's just a learning curve.
What size is the spacer and do you have a part number for the carb studs?
What would we do without the UA-cam channel? The problem with my Fitch unit turned out to be just what you described, a poor ground. I added a spacer for heat reduction and sanded a clear spot on the base and used four star washers. My problem with the pendant went away! Thank you
got the fitech 30005 and when initial frist start up i got it to run but for some reason i can not turn it off with my key i had to disconect the plug from my distributor..i have my white wire going to my fuse box to ignition fuse and my blue wire going to my green wire from my distributor which is my tach wire... i have a hei dis. and 355 small block 1990 k5 blazer...it wont shut down with the key off...my pump is in the tank
I think that white wire is key on or off power.
Can you list the part numbers you used for the gauge and fuel filter? I’m on my 3rd fitech injectors stop working.
10 micron
www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230123B
100 micron pre pump filter for inline pumps
www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230118-B
I’m building a 1967 c10 with a bbc it’s got a cam with around 300degrees duration will these fitech capable of working on something like this
That’s a pretty big cam. These systems can typically handle it though. Your idle vacuum is probably going to be in the tank though. Depends on the lift, overlap, duration @.050. Etc.
I would like to find someone that has some ballpark figures for a 1200hp Fitech on a cammed out 540BBC in 72 Chevelle with TKO5-speed, I cant get the IAC steps to stay between 3&10, either over or under, And cannot get the idle to drop from 850/900rpm, The IAC is working and no codes, dosnt matter what i put in controller, going to try 400 rpms to see if does anything, There are no vacuum leaks,,
Are you a member of the Fitech forums on Facebook? Lot's of good info (as well as some questionable info, but mostly good) on there. There are several things that can cause the IAC to be unstable.
@@mechtrician1 Thats where im going next, Thank's
@@mechtrician1 hello, is the 10 micron fuel filter you have right before the unit the only fuel filter on the system? Thanks.
@@Duwop77 no. Because I have an in-line pump, I have a 40 micron before the pump as well.
@@mechtrician1 ok thanks. One last question. I'm running an in tank pump. Would the sock on the in tank pump be good enough with the 10 micron filter b4 the unit?
Question ..... I just purchased a FiTech 30008 MeanStreet 800 for my BBC 540 stroker motor that is on an airboat.
I am having trouble trying to find the fuel pump requirement as far as max psi, flow rate, and PSI during flow.
Looking for an external inline fuel pump.
I currently do not have a return line on my fuel tank. Is it required to have a return line? Can I get away without it?
I'm right at 700HP/TQ at 5k RPM
Is there a specific Bosch 044 inline fuel pump that you would recommend?
With your motor, you need at least 300lph. The 044 is only good for 255lph. I have heard great things about the Aeromotive pumps. I’d look at the A1000.
@@mechtrician1 thank you
where did you get the fuel pressure adapter fitting thanks
I really need to add this to the video description. It’s pieced together as follows:
9/16-24 male to -6an male adapter, -6an female to 1/8npt male adapter, 1/8 npt elbow, to the gauge.
Is that an open spacer over a divided intake?
Yes, an open spacer with a dual plane intake. Probably the best combo for a throttle body injection system. They like having an open spacer.
I have the same system and I switched from an inline pump. I now have the Fitech intake pump and it is 340 lpm. My issue is when I press the gas my system goes dead. Any input of what it might be. I am going to make changes based on this video to see if it helps.
Have you checked your fuel pressure with the new pump? Just FYI, the Fitech’s regulator struggles a little bit with a 340lph pump. It’s a bit much for it. They do much better with 255. Unless you need the 340, I’d stay with 255 or you need to externally regulate.
Thanks even though Fitech told me it would work fine. I kept my old pump but I will try to get a 255 intake and see if it fixes it. Thanks!
@@terrysmith2032 yeah. It will “work” but depending how much fuel the engine is consuming, it might not have enough return capacity. If your fuel pressure is correct though, it’s not your problem.
I have a Go efi 400hp. Ran great one day, next day super rich. After looking called Fitech , they suggested vacuum leak. I've sprayed starter fluid around throttle body and nothing. I'm stumped, would hate to go back to a carburetor. Any suggestions. Thanks
Extremely rich can be a few things. Make sure your fuel pressure is correct. Should be 43psi on a 400 unit. Could be an exhaust leak, and could be an injector stuck open.
Any of those can manifest after cooling down and starting the next day.
How can I find the pressure regulator you replace for my 400hp??
Is there a part # any info please
How did you hang your coil?
I made a bracket for them using some off the shelf coil mounts.
What kind of spacer are you using ?
It’s a 1/2” open wood/composite spacer. It’s just a general Summit brand one.
Hows the fi tech so far?
Still running great.
@@mechtrician1 thats good to hear…one day or possibly during tax return I’ll switch over to EFI..
👌 super
Are in California by any chance
Yes
@@mechtrician1 you do any side work I can really use it .. and what city
@@jd10diaz I’m in LA but I really don’t do side work. I’ve got a full time job to say the least. This is just a hobby.
@@mechtrician1 no worries been battling with my 66 falcon with a 347 FiTech
FITech is shit and I wouldn't put it on a lawn mower if it was given to me! This coming from a 36 year ASE certified Master auto tech with L1 advanced engine performance cert. To easily interfeared with by electronic noise and uses crappy VW fuel pressure regulators. Not to even mention 3 bad injectors on the first one I installed as well as multiple bad fuel pumps. I would trust a Temu fuel injection system more than one of these turds. Oh did I mention the 2 bad control units also as well as the ecm. After all of that the ECM failed again in 4k miles. The customer finally gave up and bought a Holley system. Zero issues since. On a 455 Olds.