I was a dour to throw my Fitech in the trash till I watched this video!! My IAC was all out of whack and it was a mess! Thank you for good no nonsense videos that help people get in the driver seat and enjoying their ride!!
@@mlwchevy @3:20 I was quoting him. It's a reference to the movie "Office Space". It's just something funny from a long time ago, nothing to do with tuning. You're just not as old as some of us are yet. It's a great movie, worth watching.
WOW! You have no idea how much time and frustration you have saved me. I am very grateful for this info. Solved ALL the same issues I was having with my vehicle. God Bless You GREATLY.
Between you, Nabors75, and a few others, I figured out why the FItech seemed to hate my Bronco. As of an hour ago, it runs just almost how it's supposed to. Thanks for sharing this information.
I've watched a few of your videos and it's helping, so thank you. I came out of Nashville, back in 2005, and itching to get back if I can talk these kids into it, lol. We used to live off of Harding Place, I-65 side, near the zoo. We do visit there quite a bit. I've got a Dodge 4x4 here that I built at the shop, where I work, and this FI Tech isn't wanting to cooperate. Bad rich at idle, won't idle. I had it set at one time to where it would idle, but just wouldn't accelerate. The customer was in a hurry to get it back, so I tried to explain to him how to adjust, watch videos, including yours, and drive it around his property, just play with it. Of course, he wasn't happy, and now it's back, worse than ever. I'll keep at it, and thanks again.
awesome video, I have been tweaking accel and fast accel trying to eliminate the slight hesitation to no avail, will try the dTPS next, I think there in where it lies.... by far the best Fitech Video so far, from anyone!
+Jabin Trapp, did you figure it out? Were you having issues at WOT with the non-existent acceleration? I think I'm having a similar issue - at WOT my power drops off big time, almost like there is no fuel pressure.
Thanks for posting this. I’m probably a couple weeks away from firing mine up so this is great info to ponder until then. Also... My coworker just got his system up and running and it’s not working right so now I can be his hero...
Thanks for the info, I am almost ready to fire up my six pack Fitech set up, I also want to do timing control and I have their ignition box to wire in. My biggest issue is getting my distributer phased using the stock one as I have no space for the ready run or a FI ready distributer...always something, that is what makes it all fun right!!! Thanks again for sharing...
Idk if its for the updated models but at the very bottom theres a "write cal to ecu" and "read cal from ecu" and instead of hoping for luck by turning off your power in dashboard you can "Read" it to save your changes and then go to dashboard and turn off or if you really disliked your tune no worries just go to "write" and all the way at the bottom there different preferences to go back to ur default settings !!!
+jfboosted good tip! What a confusing way to save or delete, read and write. I would have guessed write was how to save your changes and read would be resetting your settings. Good to know, thanks for the tip!
Once again, great info! You should do all my videos, which are currently filmed by holding my phone sitting in my basement late at night when I'm really bored LOL Lets talk DFCO. haha. So the popping caused by dfco is completely normal. You will also see your AFR climb to 20 (very lean) when it's active. Again, normal. But if you don't like the popping, then the only way to stop it is to watch how low your MAP value drops when you come off throttle and start to decelerate. Factory cars also have this feature. But they also have DFCO timing adjustments that prevent the pop. Auto transmissions will typically use a higher Cut MAP and Return MAP value than a manual, unless you have a very high stall convertor. Regardless, if you drop the cut map value down to just at, or below, your typical MAP value reached when you decel, then the popping will lower, or stop. As DFCO simply won't kick in as often, if at all. However, always keep the DFCO Return MAP value about 2 above the cut MAP. The Return MAP is the MAP value at which the injectors start firing again. If you find it's a bit too lean coming out of DFCO, then increase the DFCO Return Fuel value. This value adjusts how much fuel is being added when coming out of DFCO. For special note on those with manual transmissions. Many of the users I've helped with a manual, have had issues with stalling at low rpm or coming to a stop and engaging the clutch. This is due to DFCO going active, but not coming out of DFCO fast enough (Return MAP value too high). This is why for manual trans users, I typically recommend either disable it (set cut map to >5) or set it very low. Cut MAP 16, and Return MAP 18 are usually good starting values for manual transmissions.
Anytime. Thank you for the videos. I'm sure it will help many users. As for my neck of the woods. Drive north for about 30 hours and you'll be close ;)
"Holley Fuel Cell EFI Pump Module Assemblies 12-146" is the fuel pump assembly I have in the fuel cell now I will be running a return line for it as well. this also can be found in summit racing.
Mine got 5 miles out of it before the computer took a dive... Duel tunnel high-ram with 3" spacer. So heat was not an issue. All wiring was proper no install errors at all... Went back to summit racing grabbed a Holley sniper efi for $100 more and I've had no issues
@@ThatGuyFromTexas87 did the sniper self tune without all this hoopla that we see in this video. I'm running a stock 390 big block I'm not doing anything high performance I'd rather spend a few more bucks than have to carry around a 4-barrel with me on my trips to Florida.
Well I bought my fitech to replace a quick fuel 750 carb. ordered a couple days ago have not received it but started watching the videos. Personally I'm not going to put it on but I will be the one to fine tune it. I dyno''d the car yesterday pitiful hp and torque from the quick fuel carb.. 257 hp 293 lbs torque. Dyno guy said he expected more from moderately built 396.says the timing and AFR are off. Seems like it runs fine to me either way results are awful. I'll post more after it's installed. I do like your videos and plan on using them when I start playing around with fitech
I appreciate your reply, I actually told the one shop that it was at to put the in line fuel regulator back on it, I was thinking the same thing. Its just getting to much pressure, My car is a 69 GTO , But has a 69 427 Chevy motor in it, (I know all you Pontiac buffs out there I know) , The car has actually been in the shop almost 2 years being restored, During the restoration I replaced the tank with the new Fuel pump in the tank . But I did suggest that, Tomorrow I will mount a in line Fuel Regulator back in the car, I will keep you posted, Thanks !!
How’s it going brother. I don’t really know how these things work and I’m not too computer or smart phone savvy but I live about an hour from you and bought my first bronco about a year ago. Full disclosure it’s not a “classic”, but I’ve always loved broncos and have no clue what I’m doing with this beast. Just wanted to inquire about enthusiasts in the area and tips on where to start. Poor thing has been sitting in the garage for 9 months but I would love to dig into it and I live watching your videos. Hit me up man. I smell a great opportunity to meet good dudes.
Awesome man! Well you should definitely come to the Bronco Super Celebration in April. Lots of Broncos and not all of them classic. What year is your bronco?
It’s an 88. Needs a lot of love! Haven’t done much to her yet. Replaced the back shocks, u joints, cleaned the throttle body, air intake and plenum, and tbs and a little here and there. She needs so much more though. Always does this crazy wobble on the road. Took her to a state park in Kentucky a while back and got it all the way home and the radiator crapped out. Would love to go to the show if I could get her up and running
Fought my fitech for 5 months to find out the ECU was bad. Now it runs much better but still has a stumble at start up at times 4 speed. Noticed it when it idles for some time at a light, if I give it some gas first it doesnt do it. The AFR too low? it ides too rich. Thank you for a great video.
+Tim Neal could idle too right, but I️ think it’s probably dumping too much fuel at take off. There’s a guy on here that talks about it. Nabors75 I️ think is his name
I just bought the fitech 30005 and I will be putting it on hopefully today 10/28/23 I'll let you know how everything goes.. I got a small block 355 1990 K5 blazer
good stuff. the other guy should check you out he is having many of the issues you discussed. He commented on 5 reasons not to buy FI tech. im stiil with the carbs right now. but you made its eem easy to find solutions... ty
Hi there ,I really hope you can respond to my comment, I've just installed the efi go8 system and I try to watch all these videos and am needing to know of where or what can I do to get all this info at one place so I can learn and teach? I'm a racer and alot of others want efi but don't understand or know enough to chance the change. Appreciate your time for reading 📚my info, thanks
Wow excellent video. I’ve followed all the steps but I still can’t find a menu to adjust my timing curve. Is it hidden somewhere in the Pro options? Thanks for any advice.
I have been messing with this thing for a week, Its now at the second shop trying to get it to stop dumping fuel into the system, I cant seem to get it to lean out, I am on my 3 rd set of plugs and second oil change in a garage, I have talked to Cust Service, Depending who you get determines your level of help. If I had it to do over I would have never bought it, Big Block 427 , Still to this day, I have not driven car 3 weeks !!!!!!!!!!! However I think this video could shed some light on things THANKS !!!
Check the pressure on your fuel regulator. I had a similar issue with it fouling my plugs and running too rich even with adjustment. Come to find out It was a bad fuel pressure regulator. It should be running at 58 PSI. Mine was running at 90 flooding the TB and intake. Swapped out the regulator and the truck has been running like a dream.
i mean. whats wrong with a little cold start . if the automatic choke is adjusted right it will warm up, then its ready. we just gettin more impatient i think
Thanks for making this video. I had been considering buying a FITech....... now I have more things to consider, first. P.S. I hate electronics but it's getting unavoidable. For me, just the lingo you use in the video alone , I have to decode, lol.
I just got my EFI and called Fitch asking how to adjust for better gas mileage they had me adjust AFR target 1 through 4. 1 went from 13.6 to 14.5 since this is just sitting at idle 2 went from 14 to 14.3 3 went from 14.4 to 15 and 4 went from 13 to 13.5 hopefully this will help with mileage
As always great video!! I am having an issue with my fitech when I shift gears and go back down on the throttle it falls on it’s face for just a couple seconds. Any thoughts?
Hi Nashville Early Bronco! great posts!! i just watched all your videos about the efi before ordering mine. now i'm installing it and i re-watched this post before starting the engine. BUT, why do you tune the IAC? is it absolutely necessary? *390 FE, Edelbrock RPM Top-end Kit*
Actually a lot of good info on here. The old LA 360 is getting tired in the '80 Powerwagon. Currently running a Carter Compation Series carb., with manual choke. How sensitive is the FiTech to temperature changes. Live in central Alberta Canada. We often see 10 to 20*C difference overnight. Planning to install a '99 Magnum 360, with a Crosswind intake, to eliminate the factory beer keg intake that the '99 has.
That's pretty much average up in Red Deer. My daily driver is a 99 Ram 1500, and I wasn't sure how an after market fuel injection kit would compare to a factory fuel injected set up. I'm thinking this set up is basically the old throttle body injection system, but now programmable.
Just had an issue with go street 400. Hard start, cranking good (or so I thought) took longer than normal to start. Also stumbling after start. Cranking but wouldn't start after sitting about 15 minutes. When it was carbureted would have started. Replaced battery, just touch the key fires right up. Didn't know that the Fitech system required a certain level of voltage to operate. Problem solved lesson learned.
Side note, what do we adjust if the throttle gets stuck closed when i come up to a stop? Then I gotta until I give it a good tap (that makes the truck jump a bit) then I have a smooth throttle, until I completely let off the throttle. Then the process of getting stuck starts all over.
You just earned a sub because although I'm still not 100% on how it's going to work on my rotary I watched a bunch of videos did a bunch of research and it was mostly good everything bad I saw were people shooting it down because they don't know how to use it because they have never tuned before and so forth buy I have two rx7s one that I've been trying to find efi for so I can tune the shit out of it and another that has literally 0 miles on the engine and Trans and be think the reason we can't get it running after all of this is it might be ported so the afr needs to be tuned but the current carb is tuned out only solutions I can think of are more or larger injectors but I think the fitech may just be my solution because it has a walbro 255 and 790cc injectors and it came with 625cc injectors on the carb
That's the thing about these efi in a box kits. They make it sound like the system will tune itself. While it may be able to make the engine run its going to take at least a modest amount of tweaking as well as the associated knowledge to accomplish said tweak to make the engine run well.
great stuff....looking to update my holley projection (on a Scout II) to either the Fitech or Holley sniper...with these tweaks, are you good to go up in high altitude without having to adjust or do you think you'll have to tweak as you climb? - Thanks!
+Scott Sargent at this point I’m noticing the fitech adjusting on the fly really well. I haven’t been to high altitude, so I can’t speak to that, but when the crazy temp and humidity changes in Nashville it handles those really well
I have one on a 350 Chevy in a Jeep in Colorado and have been to 13000 ft no problem, if the tuned AFR is 13:1 it will always keep it 13:1, no matter what the altitude....mine runs upside down....but that's another story
Hi , great videos, I wonder if you have had issues with pressure in the fuel tank. I have a 302 and Fitech go street 400 and a fitech FCC. I have the vent from the FCC, going back to the tank( installed on the filler tube) the gas cap is the vented one ( mustang 1965) What will happen if the fuel cap will not vent the tank...will the air from the tank put pressure back into the fuel vent on the FCC. Tony from Denmark.
If you have a vented cap it should be fine. But I’m not running the FCC, I have an inline pump with a return line going from the throttle body. I wonder what happens if the tank doesn’t vent... I’m not sure.
Great video. Where did you find all of this info? Their website leaves a good bit to be desired. Would you happen to have a list of the fault codes for their system? I'm showing a Fault 1 as 74 (2 Barrel System), and can't find any such info on their website.
Thanks! I’ve just gathered this info as I’ve learned the unit and as I’ve tried to get mine running better. Unfortunately I don’t know any fault codes.
@@cobravacume that's poor advice. 14.7 is stoiciometry and leaves no residual fuel for cooling. Mixture should always be rich of peak exhaust gas temperature. Silent detonation is a distinct possibility. There are other ways to chase fuel economy. We have no idea on his distributor, cam selection so on and so forth. We don't even know if the advance is working on his dizzy.
Got a 1970 mach1 with 351C with fitech 600 complete kit, getting rpm noise fault code and stalls after few minutes at idle. I have separated the blue wire and all the wires but still stalls. Checked plugs, wires and alternator wiring, all ground wiring is good and tight. I've tried tuning with your video which helped a lot and it got better but still stalls. Any ideas?
I'm having a case of the Mondays when I try warmed up engine start. 454 w/ LS5 heads FiTech 400 to 1k HP with Fuel pressurized canister, electronic Ignition etc... I'm thinking Fuel prime same as cold start , Timing or expanded Starter Motor?
My pump says 58 but the fuel flow is only saying like 4.10/ hr. When I give it more gas it's like it's starving for fuel it more less just boggs itself down. Any ideas or tips?
You suggest the Go EFI 4 600HP System which is $999 at FiTech. The Go EFI Classic Black 550HP System which is normally 912.60 now has a $150 rebate. I can't see what the 600HP system offers over the 550HP for my 1973 Bronco. Can you explain?
Really good video, I want to put some sort of throttle body style on my 351c 4V I was looking at the Sniper, do they have this sort of tune ability or self learning only
Great videos and thanks for sharing. I am considering installing the fitech on my classic Mustang and the information you are providing is invaluable. I have a question regarding your setup. Does the fitech have provisions for the automatic transmission kickdown, what intake are you using and is your cam a stock profile? I am currently running an Edelbrock RPM air gap intake and C4 automatic. Thanks
Nashville Early Bronco great thanks!are you experiencing any issues with idle or hesitation due to the dual plane manifold that you haven't been able to tune out? Did you install a spacer between the intake and throttle body?
we installed a Fitech 600 hp system with fuel pump kit. engine started and ran ok but kept setting and oxygen sensor code and a o2 heater code. same as if it was not plugged in. 0130 and 0032 code. you could see on data screen that it was not in fuel control. we called for tech help many times but it seemed like the tech was clueless on what the circuit test and pin out values should be. it would be easy for me to test the system and give them data if I had any reference material. they don't have any available. they told us to box it back up and send back for them to test - repair it. I would have done that if the support wasn't so bad. I fixed it my self in about two hours. I installed a MSD FI that I had in stock. works great.
great video,im thinking of fitting fi-tech go street 400hp system to an aussie hemi 6 with about 320hp.do they work well on an inline 6 manifold,am I better of with with 600hp kit for more tunability,the go street isn't fully tuneable like the others
No. FiTech won't add power. With that being said, you may very well feel a power grain. If your carburetor and air/fuel are really messed up you may add power by the FiTech resolving these issues. My 650 double pumper was working pretty good. I don't believe I have any power increase. I do believe I have better driveability and starting. I added only the FiTech. Same intake, heads, cam, etc. I only changed my fuel delivery.
From our experience EFI rarely if ever provides any mentionable increase in horsepower assuming the carb/mechanical induction was tuned correctly/properly. Torque on the other hand has always shown better numbers after switching over to EFI.
Sorry to be a pain, but with the timing control part of it enabled, what does 'TACH' mean and what does 'VRCOIL' mean? Nowhere in the idiot setup manual is any reference made and nowhere does it say whether or not there is a default spark map. I have just installed it on my truck and this is why I'm here.
Tach means the FiTech isn’t controlling the timing. It’s being controlled by something else like a CDI box or the vacuum on the distributor. The VRCOIL means the FiTech is controlling the timing
Thanks man. You're a life saver. I just installed the dual quad setup in my truck with a brand new motor. It's at the exhaust shop. I trucked it over yesterday and I have to drive it 50 miles back here Monday night. It has a locked out Mallory dizzy and I need to know how to enable timing control. I've had it running without the oxygen sensor in the exhaust but only for short periods. Can you tell me if it has a default advance map? Cheers.
My motor is being rebuilt right now, I am detuning it a little from high compression down to pump gas friendly, also going from a .800 lift 4/7 swap cam to a .700 lift hydraulic roller cam. still should make close to 800 hp. we will see at dyno time, right now at 572 ci its a little over 900hp on race fuel. it will become a 582 and shooting for between 10.5:1 to 11:1 compression. we will dyno it with the current carburetor then hopefully I will be buying the mean street 800 hp unit. but I have a few questions. the car is wired up to be compliant with NHRA rules with the safety battery disconnect switch then a 4 switch relay system for fuel pump, water pump, ignition msd box, and radiator fan. How would I incorporate those switches? would I wire in the power to the fitech straight from the battery and feed off the ignition key to power the rest of that switch relay assembly or bypass that system altogether and wire up inline relays from the fitech to the individual systems (waterpump, fuel pump, ignition msd box, and radiator fan)?
Whatsup man, hopefully you have an answer. I've had the fi tech on my car for over a year now and I just recently switched to ignition control with two wire distributor, now the thing shuts off randomly, I can get about a minute of driving then it just shuts off in an instant, no spit spuddering, kills itself, start it a minute later and she runs for another 30 seconds to a minute. All my wiring looks fine and nothing is loose....any ideas?
my truck is idling very low around like 300 rpms it should be around 1000, Do you think if I played with the IAC values it would potentially fix that problem?
what happens if you don't have the ignition setup option? what does it mean and do you know why I'm not getting fuel to the carb I hear the pump but there is no fuel.
What ignition set up option are you referring to? Do you mean the timing? If you get the fitech 400 hp, then your timing is just controlled the same way as when you run a carburetor. What kind of car did you put the fuel pump on? Could the pump be too high and not drawing any fuel from the tank? Without cranking the engine, just turn the key on 5 or 6 times. Does the pump come on and get fuel to the bowls of the fitech?
yea I have the 400 HP one I'm running a 255 from BBK fuel pump and maybe I didn't wire something correctly, no fuel the pump buzzes and it says 55 on the controller. but I look in the carb n it's dry. I have a dizzy from kmzperformance that has a module mounted to it it's a 2 wire dizzy black n red don't know it I gotta do it like you did n lock it out bad side I don't have the green and purple wire to the dizzy, but idk if that be any relation to me getting fuel to the block. I have the 14ga main wire (Red) to a switch then from switch to battery +.
I have found that adjusting the IAC to a high number like 140-160 steps on crank helps with cold start and warm start. It lets lots of air in to the engine. Because after all the throttle plates are only just open and the last thing you want to have to do is pump the gas pedal on an efi engine to get it to start!
...high steps means the IAC is almost 100% open and the throttle blades are only a sliver open. Doing this intentionally will result in lean transition issues off idle and limited ability for the IAC to respond if the engine receives a load at idle, such as the A/C compressor kicking on. I wouldn't recommend it for those reading.
Tim Rabideau there is an option CRANKING IAC where you set the number higher, only for cranking. Everything else after the cranking procedure will still follow the 3-10 steps.
My Fitech 600hp seems to run pretty well, except for the my 2nd shift. I put it into reverse & back down my driveway and all is great, until I put it into drive, then there's a sputter & it dies,,,, it fires back up and is perfect for the rest of my drive. Only happens after it's sat for a day or more,,, so weird. But my biggest complaint about the system, is it just doesn't want to idle under 825 rpm(mild hyd roller cam, stroked 331 Ford, 350hp, built more for mileage/road tripping). Have been a wrench for 35+ years, and this motor should easily idle @ 700-750rpm. I would assume it's just a simple setting, but am new to efi tuning. Any help is appreciated!
I adjusted everything you showed yesterday,,, along with the AFR targets 1-4 like Frank Brooks showed below, and it seems to run much better,,, a lot crisper than what it did. It will idle now @ 800 rpm & it doesn't smell rich idling anymore, which shouldn't hurt mileage any. My IAC jumps around a bit & once warmed up & idling, it was around 1-3 on average, so I did 2 or 3, one/half round sessions with the screw & it now reads approx. 3-8 on average. Thanks for your video,,, Very Helpful!
Hello my friend, how are you? I am from Brazil and would like to ask a question ... I installed FiTech in my Ford Maverick equipped with a SBF 302 with a Stroker 331 kit and I am having an annoying problem of solving during engine starting. He just does not turn on the first match. I have to turn the ignition key on and off 2 to 3 times before it works. Did you go through that? Would you help me? Thank you in advance !!
+Felipe Pessanha de Sá hey! I haven’t heard of that problem before. Have you checked to make sure you are getting 12 volts the first time you turn your key on? I would check for that and check your ignition switch. It could be going out
Great video bro! Self learning my ass. I just installed this in my 440- 68 charger and I’m not impressed yet. I’m taking it to the tuners at Wes tech performance to see if they can get him in order. Problems are: dying after cold starts, wants to die when I stop and smells like I still have a carb! 😭
+Thecrossforever oh man that sucks! I drove it about 200 miles and then it REALLY started adjusting on the fly. I had to figure out a couple adjustments to get it just right. I have another video about those.
I have had all the same issues. Mine worked pretty good right out of the box (69 mach 351W with 400hp top end kit) but it still smells like shit! burning super rich. I checked Pro Tune settings like Nash said and I'm in the bounds of everything he's said. I never had the issue of it wanting to die when I come to a stop, but out of nowhere it started doing it. I had to throw it in N and keep revving until the light turned green. Is this bad gas? I took it home, changed all the spark plugs and now it's not doing it anymore. It could've been bad gas? The plugs looked pretty normal. I just wish I could get it to stop running rich. I'll bump up the AFR and see how that works.
I was a dour to throw my Fitech in the trash till I watched this video!! My IAC was all out of whack and it was a mess! Thank you for good no nonsense videos that help people get in the driver seat and enjoying their ride!!
"You want to make sure that you put a cover sheet on your TPS report."
Great video brother!
I got the memo, I just forgot.
What does this mean? I’m not a tuner, so I don’t understand.
@@mlwchevy @3:20 I was quoting him. It's a reference to the movie "Office Space". It's just something funny from a long time ago, nothing to do with tuning. You're just not as old as some of us are yet. It's a great movie, worth watching.
Im 52 but never watched office space. Thank you for answering though
@@mlwchevy You're right, we're almost the same age. My pleasure!
WOW! You have no idea how much time and frustration you have saved me. I am very grateful for this info. Solved ALL the same issues I was having with my vehicle. God Bless You GREATLY.
Awesome man! Glad I could help!
Between you, Nabors75, and a few others, I figured out why the FItech seemed to hate my Bronco. As of an hour ago, it runs just almost how it's supposed to. Thanks for sharing this information.
Glad I can help
I've watched a few of your videos and it's helping, so thank you. I came out of Nashville, back in 2005, and itching to get back if I can talk these kids into it, lol. We used to live off of Harding Place, I-65 side, near the zoo. We do visit there quite a bit. I've got a Dodge 4x4 here that I built at the shop, where I work, and this FI Tech isn't wanting to cooperate. Bad rich at idle, won't idle. I had it set at one time to where it would idle, but just wouldn't accelerate. The customer was in a hurry to get it back, so I tried to explain to him how to adjust, watch videos, including yours, and drive it around his property, just play with it. Of course, he wasn't happy, and now it's back, worse than ever. I'll keep at it, and thanks again.
Thanks for watching!
this video helped alot when i installed my FiTech last year. a year later and about 15k miles its doing great. ty for the great video
You are welcome!
you are literally the most helpful video know to man on adjusting the fitech.. THANK YOU
Haha! Glad to help
awesome video, I have been tweaking accel and fast accel trying to eliminate the slight hesitation to no avail, will try the dTPS next, I think there in where it lies.... by far the best Fitech Video so far, from anyone!
+Jabin Trapp thanks man!
i agree
+Jabin Trapp, did you figure it out? Were you having issues at WOT with the non-existent acceleration? I think I'm having a similar issue - at WOT my power drops off big time, almost like there is no fuel pressure.
Jabin Trapp
OMG...my decel engine popping was driving me insane with my cut outs open! Thank you , Thank you , Thank you!!!
Thanks for posting this. I’m probably a couple weeks away from firing mine up so this is great info to ponder until then. Also... My coworker just got his system up and running and it’s not working right so now I can be his hero...
Haha! Nice!
Just installed mine today and that sucker was running rich. Great video, I'll attempt to correct these issues!!
Thank you have been pulling my hair out til I found this video. Looking forward to getting mine going later today!
Just installed mine on my 403 Toronado engine in my 1978 GMC motorhome.. and now need to Tweek.. This video is very helpful.. thanks..
Happy to help
Yeeeeahhhhh Peter.....Im gonna need you to come in this weekend.
On a serious note....HUGELY helpful. Cool tee shirt btw
😂 thanks man
Thanks! Had the light throttle stutter problem. DFCO return map to 60 and it worked! Was about to drive me nuts until I found your video. Thanks!
+Kahl Buhl nice!!!
but. any more issues?
good video , for people who have never done any efi tuning and are not familiar with fitech it will save them a lot of frustration.
Yes! Cover sheets on all TPS reports, I'll do that working this weekend.
That would be great.
Thank you for the info you don't know how much this means to me. You Rock!
Thanks for the info, I am almost ready to fire up my six pack Fitech set up, I also want to do timing control and I have their ignition box to wire in. My biggest issue is getting my distributer phased using the stock one as I have no space for the ready run or a FI ready distributer...always something, that is what makes it all fun right!!! Thanks again for sharing...
Good luck!
Thank You for your clarity You make the process easier to understand
I just got mine running on an 83 chevy 4x4 today. I thank you for these videos. It will be helpful in the future
You bet!
How could anyone not like this! Smh. Thanks man GREAT VIDEO 👍✌
Man thank you for your videos!! I was about to go back to my carburetor because I had no idea how to adjust my efi. Very good stuff!!
Awesome! Glad I could help
Great tips, Thanks! I bought the go efi 8 for my supercharged camaro. I'll have a leg up when I start tuning
Idk if its for the updated models but at the very bottom theres a "write cal to ecu" and "read cal from ecu" and instead of hoping for luck by turning off your power in dashboard you can "Read" it to save your changes and then go to dashboard and turn off or if you really disliked your tune no worries just go to "write" and all the way at the bottom there different preferences to go back to ur default settings !!!
+jfboosted good tip! What a confusing way to save or delete, read and write. I would have guessed write was how to save your changes and read would be resetting your settings. Good to know, thanks for the tip!
Once again, great info!
You should do all my videos, which are currently filmed by holding my phone sitting in my basement late at night when I'm really bored LOL
Lets talk DFCO. haha. So the popping caused by dfco is completely normal. You will also see your AFR climb to 20 (very lean) when it's active. Again, normal. But if you don't like the popping, then the only way to stop it is to watch how low your MAP value drops when you come off throttle and start to decelerate. Factory cars also have this feature. But they also have DFCO timing adjustments that prevent the pop. Auto transmissions will typically use a higher Cut MAP and Return MAP value than a manual, unless you have a very high stall convertor. Regardless, if you drop the cut map value down to just at, or below, your typical MAP value reached when you decel, then the popping will lower, or stop. As DFCO simply won't kick in as often, if at all. However, always keep the DFCO Return MAP value about 2 above the cut MAP. The Return MAP is the MAP value at which the injectors start firing again. If you find it's a bit too lean coming out of DFCO, then increase the DFCO Return Fuel value. This value adjusts how much fuel is being added when coming out of DFCO.
For special note on those with manual transmissions. Many of the users I've helped with a manual, have had issues with stalling at low rpm or coming to a stop and engaging the clutch. This is due to DFCO going active, but not coming out of DFCO fast enough (Return MAP value too high). This is why for manual trans users, I typically recommend either disable it (set cut map to >5) or set it very low. Cut MAP 16, and Return MAP 18 are usually good starting values for manual transmissions.
+Nabors75 you are a genius! If I’m ever close to you with my Bronco I’ll come shoot some videos 👍🏼 thank YOU for the info
Anytime. Thank you for the videos. I'm sure it will help many users.
As for my neck of the woods. Drive north for about 30 hours and you'll be close ;)
+Nabors75 haha! One day
"Holley Fuel Cell EFI Pump Module Assemblies 12-146" is the fuel pump assembly I have in the fuel cell now I will be running a return line for it as well. this also can be found in summit racing.
Very informative, I'm planning on buying one of these systems. Thank you!
Thanks man! This cleared up a lot of small issues I was having.
That is a lot of thumbs down for how many thankful comments you have. FI conversion is definitely coming to a project near me!
The TPS cover sheet comment, Amazing!!! This video is Fantastic. Thank you
Haha! You are welcome
What do you mean by cover sheet?
It’s a movie reference.
Mine got 5 miles out of it before the computer took a dive...
Duel tunnel high-ram with 3" spacer. So heat was not an issue. All wiring was proper no install errors at all...
Went back to summit racing grabbed a Holley sniper efi for $100 more and I've had no issues
I'm about to delve into this EFI on my 65 Thunderbird is the sniper doing very well
@@ihave35cents95 oh hell yes. I'm about to upgrade the temx
@@ThatGuyFromTexas87 did the sniper self tune without all this hoopla that we see in this video. I'm running a stock 390 big block I'm not doing anything high performance I'd rather spend a few more bucks than have to carry around a 4-barrel with me on my trips to Florida.
383 blown 8-71 with the Terminator X 4 barrel can convert to mpi bc its got 8 injectors
@@ThatGuyFromTexas87 so you can actually do coil on plug with this expansion system I did a quick read on that that ill follow up on later
These videos are the ones I’ve been looking for. Thanks
Well I bought my fitech to replace a quick fuel 750 carb. ordered a couple days ago have not received it but started watching the videos. Personally I'm not going to put it on but I will be the one to fine tune it. I dyno''d the car yesterday pitiful hp and torque from the quick fuel carb.. 257 hp 293 lbs torque. Dyno guy said he expected more from moderately built 396.says the timing and AFR are off. Seems like it runs fine to me either way results are awful. I'll post more after it's installed. I do like your videos and plan on using them when I start playing around with fitech
I appreciate your reply, I actually told the one shop that it was at to put the in line fuel regulator back on it, I was thinking the same thing. Its just getting to much pressure, My car is a 69 GTO , But has a 69 427 Chevy motor in it, (I know all you Pontiac buffs out there I know) , The car has actually been in the shop almost 2 years being restored, During the restoration I replaced the tank with the new Fuel pump in the tank . But I did suggest that, Tomorrow I will mount a in line Fuel Regulator back in the car, I will keep you posted, Thanks !!
i like 68 gto's
and 69
How’s it going brother. I don’t really know how these things work and I’m not too computer or smart phone savvy but I live about an hour from you and bought my first bronco about a year ago. Full disclosure it’s not a “classic”, but I’ve always loved broncos and have no clue what I’m doing with this beast. Just wanted to inquire about enthusiasts in the area and tips on where to start. Poor thing has been sitting in the garage for 9 months but I would love to dig into it and I live watching your videos. Hit me up man. I smell a great opportunity to meet good dudes.
Awesome man! Well you should definitely come to the Bronco Super Celebration in April. Lots of Broncos and not all of them classic. What year is your bronco?
It’s an 88. Needs a lot of love! Haven’t done much to her yet. Replaced the back shocks, u joints, cleaned the throttle body, air intake and plenum, and tbs and a little here and there. She needs so much more though. Always does this crazy wobble on the road. Took her to a state park in Kentucky a while back and got it all the way home and the radiator crapped out. Would love to go to the show if I could get her up and running
That’s awesome, one step at a time. You should come with or without the bronco. I went without my bronco for years
Unless something comes up at work I’ll be there! Vendors and such?
Yep!
Excellent video. I'm in the process of the installation right now and I'll refer back to this for sure. Thanks -
Fought my fitech for 5 months to find out the ECU was bad. Now it runs much better but still has a stumble at start up at times 4 speed. Noticed it when it idles for some time at a light, if I give it some gas first it doesnt do it. The AFR too low? it ides too rich. Thank you for a great video.
+Tim Neal could idle too right, but I️ think it’s probably dumping too much fuel at take off. There’s a guy on here that talks about it. Nabors75 I️ think is his name
i just forget buying me one
I just bought the fitech 30005 and I will be putting it on hopefully today 10/28/23 I'll let you know how everything goes.. I got a small block 355 1990 K5 blazer
Nice
good stuff. the other guy should check you out he is having many of the issues you discussed. He commented on 5 reasons not to buy FI tech. im stiil with the carbs right now. but you made its eem easy to find solutions... ty
You’re welcome!
Thanks for the awesome video.im looking forward to getting one and installing it on my 74 pickup
Hi there ,I really hope you can respond to my comment, I've just installed the efi go8 system and I try to watch all these videos and am needing to know of where or what can I do to get all this info at one place so I can learn and teach? I'm a racer and alot of others want efi but don't understand or know enough to chance the change. Appreciate your time for reading 📚my info, thanks
I’ve just had to watch videos and compile my own information
Yeah I’m going to need you to come in on Saturday.
🤣🤣
Wow excellent video. I’ve followed all the steps but I still can’t find a menu to adjust my timing curve. Is it hidden somewhere in the Pro options? Thanks for any advice.
The menu has probably changed at this point and I don’t have mine anymore
I have been messing with this thing for a week, Its now at the second shop trying to get it to stop dumping fuel into the system, I cant seem to get it to lean out, I am on my 3 rd set of plugs and second oil change in a garage, I have talked to Cust Service, Depending who you get determines your level of help. If I had it to do over I would have never bought it, Big Block 427 , Still to this day, I have not driven car 3 weeks !!!!!!!!!!! However I think this video could shed some light on things THANKS !!!
Man! That’s a bummer! Hopefully it gets worked out
Check the pressure on your fuel regulator. I had a similar issue with it fouling my plugs and running too rich even with adjustment. Come to find out It was a bad fuel pressure regulator. It should be running at 58 PSI. Mine was running at 90 flooding the TB and intake. Swapped out the regulator and the truck has been running like a dream.
im sorry. trust the carb man
i mean. whats wrong with a little cold start . if the automatic choke is adjusted right it will warm up, then its ready. we just gettin more impatient i think
Need updated software for ecu, that solved my fouling plugs over and over
Thanks for making this video.
I had been considering buying a FITech....... now I have more things to consider, first.
P.S. I hate electronics but it's getting unavoidable. For me, just the lingo you use in the video alone , I have to decode, lol.
I just got my EFI and called Fitch asking how to adjust for better gas mileage they had me adjust AFR target 1 through 4. 1 went from 13.6 to 14.5 since this is just sitting at idle 2 went from 14 to 14.3 3 went from 14.4 to 15 and 4 went from 13 to 13.5 hopefully this will help with mileage
I just scrapped my FITech for a Holley Sniper. Done with FITech!!!
I'm about there.. just got my fitech back from repair and the car wont turn over. It tries though
@@overbuiltautomotive1299 huh???
As always great video!! I am having an issue with my fitech when I shift gears and go back down on the throttle it falls on it’s face for just a couple seconds. Any thoughts?
Learning a lot here. Keep up the great work!
+pat lucas yeah man you bet!
Hi Nashville Early Bronco! great posts!! i just watched all your videos about the efi before ordering mine. now i'm installing it and i re-watched this post before starting the engine. BUT, why do you tune the IAC? is it absolutely necessary?
*390 FE, Edelbrock RPM Top-end Kit*
Thanks! I don’t think it’s necessary but it helped my engine idle smoother. If your engine is running great it may not be necessary.
many thanks for your fast answer! keep up with your posts! regards from switzerland!
Actually a lot of good info on here. The old LA 360 is getting tired in the '80 Powerwagon. Currently running a Carter Compation Series carb., with manual choke. How sensitive is the FiTech to temperature changes. Live in central Alberta Canada. We often see 10 to 20*C difference overnight. Planning to install a '99 Magnum 360, with a Crosswind intake, to eliminate the factory beer keg intake that the '99 has.
I haven’t notice the fitech having issues in the cold. But the lowest I’ve driven is in 4 degree weather
That's pretty much average up in Red Deer. My daily driver is a 99 Ram 1500, and I wasn't sure how an after market fuel injection kit would compare to a factory fuel injected set up. I'm thinking this set up is basically the old throttle body injection system, but now programmable.
Lots of great info, thanks for posting!
Just had an issue with go street 400. Hard start, cranking good (or so I thought) took longer than normal to start. Also stumbling after start. Cranking but wouldn't start after sitting about 15 minutes. When it was carbureted would have started. Replaced battery, just touch the key fires right up. Didn't know that the Fitech system required a certain level of voltage to operate. Problem solved lesson learned.
very good help to configure my fitech
Glad it helped!
the IAC step tip helped me get the unit started. I think of it as the idle set screw on a carby. Thanks
Yeah. My engine wouldn't even start with the IAC screw at factory settings.
Side note, what do we adjust if the throttle gets stuck closed when i come up to a stop? Then I gotta until I give it a good tap (that makes the truck jump a bit) then I have a smooth throttle, until I completely let off the throttle. Then the process of getting stuck starts all over.
You just earned a sub because although I'm still not 100% on how it's going to work on my rotary I watched a bunch of videos did a bunch of research and it was mostly good everything bad I saw were people shooting it down because they don't know how to use it because they have never tuned before and so forth buy I have two rx7s one that I've been trying to find efi for so I can tune the shit out of it and another that has literally 0 miles on the engine and Trans and be think the reason we can't get it running after all of this is it might be ported so the afr needs to be tuned but the current carb is tuned out only solutions I can think of are more or larger injectors but I think the fitech may just be my solution because it has a walbro 255 and 790cc injectors and it came with 625cc injectors on the carb
Great info ,Thank for sharing
Great post👍👍 I have a 1993 chevy 1500 do you think I could put my Go EFI pump on the stock sending unit and it work just like the stock pump?
That's the thing about these efi in a box kits. They make it sound like the system will tune itself. While it may be able to make the engine run its going to take at least a modest amount of tweaking as well as the associated knowledge to accomplish said tweak to make the engine run well.
+Do R/C! Haha so true
Bronco bumpers
Too many configurations to get an initial setup tune work on all of them
Great tech Jon!
great stuff....looking to update my holley projection (on a Scout II) to either the Fitech or Holley sniper...with these tweaks, are you good to go up in high altitude without having to adjust or do you think you'll have to tweak as you climb? - Thanks!
+Scott Sargent at this point I’m noticing the fitech adjusting on the fly really well. I haven’t been to high altitude, so I can’t speak to that, but when the crazy temp and humidity changes in Nashville it handles those really well
I have one on a 350 Chevy in a Jeep in Colorado and have been to 13000 ft no problem, if the tuned AFR is 13:1 it will always keep it 13:1, no matter what the altitude....mine runs upside down....but that's another story
Hi , great videos, I wonder if you have had issues with pressure in the fuel tank. I have a 302 and Fitech go street 400 and a fitech FCC.
I have the vent from the FCC, going back to the tank( installed on the filler tube) the gas cap is the vented one ( mustang 1965)
What will happen if the fuel cap will not vent the tank...will the air from the tank put pressure back into the fuel vent on the FCC.
Tony from Denmark.
If you have a vented cap it should be fine. But I’m not running the FCC, I have an inline pump with a return line going from the throttle body. I wonder what happens if the tank doesn’t vent... I’m not sure.
Awsome👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 thank you very much very helpful, great work!!!
Ok. I havent hooked mines up yet. Keep prolonging. But thanks for the info. Ill b in touch
Awesome video! You are a great help.
Great video. Where did you find all of this info? Their website leaves a good bit to be desired. Would you happen to have a list of the fault codes for their system? I'm showing a Fault 1 as 74 (2 Barrel System), and can't find any such info on their website.
Thanks! I’ve just gathered this info as I’ve learned the unit and as I’ve tried to get mine running better. Unfortunately I don’t know any fault codes.
What would you suggest to adjust to get it to fire up and idle on the first hit
Fitech should hire you, just saying
+Don Lovelace haha!
Nice, good info. I'm about to install this unit.
This video was great cuz I was scratching my head with some of these
Any tips for better gas milage. Truck runs great!!.... but I'm getting 10mpg on my 350.
Hmm... not within the fitech
does that mean there are no fitech tweets that can improve my mpg?
None that I know of
Set cruise AFR to 14.7? and bump all the AFR's higher
@@cobravacume that's poor advice.
14.7 is stoiciometry and leaves no residual fuel for cooling.
Mixture should always be rich of peak exhaust gas temperature.
Silent detonation is a distinct possibility. There are other ways to chase fuel economy. We have no idea on his distributor, cam selection so on and so forth.
We don't even know if the advance is working on his dizzy.
Also adjusting the afr too lean will make the engine hotter. If you have cats you can destroy them running lean a long time
Got a 1970 mach1 with 351C with fitech 600 complete kit, getting rpm noise fault code and stalls after few minutes at idle. I have separated the blue wire and all the wires but still stalls. Checked plugs, wires and alternator wiring, all ground wiring is good and tight. I've tried tuning with your video which helped a lot and it got better but still stalls. Any ideas?
Sounds like you've done a lot of troubleshooting, that's a tough one!
I'm having a case of the Mondays when I try warmed up engine start. 454 w/ LS5 heads FiTech 400 to 1k HP with Fuel pressurized canister, electronic Ignition etc... I'm thinking Fuel prime same as cold start , Timing or expanded Starter Motor?
My pump says 58 but the fuel flow is only saying like 4.10/ hr. When I give it more gas it's like it's starving for fuel it more less just boggs itself down. Any ideas or tips?
You suggest the Go EFI 4 600HP System which is $999 at FiTech. The Go EFI Classic Black 550HP System which is normally 912.60 now has a $150 rebate. I can't see what the 600HP system offers over the 550HP for my 1973 Bronco. Can you explain?
At the time, only the 600hp system had all the “features” of the unit unlocked. I think things are different now.
Really good video, I want to put some sort of throttle body style on my 351c 4V
I was looking at the Sniper, do they have this sort of tune ability or self learning only
+dieholdendie it’s tune-able and has self learning.
Great videos and thanks for sharing. I am considering installing the fitech on my classic Mustang and the information you are providing is invaluable. I have a question regarding your setup. Does the fitech have provisions for the automatic transmission kickdown, what intake are you using and is your cam a stock profile? I am currently running an Edelbrock RPM air gap intake and C4 automatic. Thanks
+Farmer Jim I have the edlelbrock RPM intake, stock cam, and C4. I bought the lokar kick down cable for the C4 and it downshifts much better.
Nashville Early Bronco great thanks!are you experiencing any issues with idle or hesitation due to the dual plane manifold that you haven't been able to tune out? Did you install a spacer between the intake and throttle body?
I didn't install a spacer, and haven't noticed any issues with idle or hesitation
I believe you have my red stapler !?!
+Crafty Paris 😂
I am going to burn down the building.
PC Load Letter!?!
What did you do with the Fitech now that you swapped it out? Is it a bench warmer or moving on to another project?
Bench warmer, but I’m sure I’ll use it in future videos. Possibly put it back on and Dyno it again
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco Nice- or maybe it's a good reason to add another Bronco- The parts need a home.
Haha! Yes
we installed a Fitech 600 hp system with fuel pump kit. engine started and ran ok but kept setting and oxygen sensor code and a o2 heater code. same as if it was not plugged in. 0130 and 0032 code. you could see on data screen that it was not in fuel control. we called for tech help many times but it seemed like the tech was clueless on what the circuit test and pin out values should be. it would be easy for me to test the system and give them data if I had any reference material. they don't have any available. they told us to box it back up and send back for them to test - repair it. I would have done that if the support wasn't so bad. I fixed it my self in about two hours. I installed a MSD FI that I had in stock. works great.
I tried adjusting everything here. But I'm still running rich at the max adjustment.
great video,im thinking of fitting fi-tech go street 400hp system to an aussie hemi 6 with about 320hp.do they work well on an inline 6 manifold,am I better of with with 600hp kit for more tunability,the go street isn't fully tuneable like the others
I would definitely do the 600hp kit. The 400 is cheaper, but the 600 has all the features.
I’m in Nashville as well !! Would love to get your help with tuning
Does this system work with the HEI distributor? what settings? I have a Ford 302 with the GM style distributor. Iron heads, stock cam, shorty headers.
does the FiTECH add any horse power to an engine. if so how much would it add to a 302 with 322hp?
+Christopher Hammonds I noticed about 20 hp gain from my intake and fitech. Don’t know if it was fitech alone though
No. FiTech won't add power. With that being said, you may very well feel a power grain. If your carburetor and air/fuel are really messed up you may add power by the FiTech resolving these issues. My 650 double pumper was working pretty good. I don't believe I have any power increase. I do believe I have better driveability and starting.
I added only the FiTech. Same intake, heads, cam, etc. I only changed my fuel delivery.
From our experience EFI rarely if ever provides any mentionable increase in horsepower assuming the carb/mechanical induction was tuned correctly/properly. Torque on the other hand has always shown better numbers after switching over to EFI.
Yeeaaah, if you could put a cover sheet on your TPS before setting up your IAC, that would be great.
Sorry to be a pain, but with the timing control part of it enabled, what does 'TACH' mean and what does 'VRCOIL' mean? Nowhere in the idiot setup manual is any reference made and nowhere does it say whether or not there is a default spark map. I have just installed it on my truck and this is why I'm here.
Tach means the FiTech isn’t controlling the timing. It’s being controlled by something else like a CDI box or the vacuum on the distributor. The VRCOIL means the FiTech is controlling the timing
Thanks man. You're a life saver. I just installed the dual quad setup in my truck with a brand new motor. It's at the exhaust shop. I trucked it over yesterday and I have to drive it 50 miles back here Monday night. It has a locked out Mallory dizzy and I need to know how to enable timing control. I've had it running without the oxygen sensor in the exhaust but only for short periods.
Can you tell me if it has a default advance map?
Cheers.
Switching it to VRCOIL will enabled timing control through the FiTech. I have another video on the timing control. Hopefully that will help
My motor is being rebuilt right now, I am detuning it a little from high compression down to pump gas friendly, also going from a .800 lift 4/7 swap cam to a .700 lift hydraulic roller cam. still should make close to 800 hp. we will see at dyno time, right now at 572 ci its a little over 900hp on race fuel. it will become a 582 and shooting for between 10.5:1 to 11:1 compression. we will dyno it with the current carburetor then hopefully I will be buying the mean street 800 hp unit. but I have a few questions. the car is wired up to be compliant with NHRA rules with the safety battery disconnect switch then a 4 switch relay system for fuel pump, water pump, ignition msd box, and radiator fan. How would I incorporate those switches? would I wire in the power to the fitech straight from the battery and feed off the ignition key to power the rest of that switch relay assembly or bypass that system altogether and wire up inline relays from the fitech to the individual systems (waterpump, fuel pump, ignition msd box, and radiator fan)?
Whatsup man, hopefully you have an answer. I've had the fi tech on my car for over a year now and I just recently switched to ignition control with two wire distributor, now the thing shuts off randomly, I can get about a minute of driving then it just shuts off in an instant, no spit spuddering, kills itself, start it a minute later and she runs for another 30 seconds to a minute. All my wiring looks fine and nothing is loose....any ideas?
my truck is idling very low around like 300 rpms it should be around 1000, Do you think if I played with the IAC values it would potentially fix that problem?
There is an engine idle control page. I set my truck to about 750rpm.
Thank you for all your help! I may get one!
what happens if you don't have the ignition setup option? what does it mean and do you know why I'm not getting fuel to the carb I hear the pump but there is no fuel.
What ignition set up option are you referring to? Do you mean the timing? If you get the fitech 400 hp, then your timing is just controlled the same way as when you run a carburetor. What kind of car did you put the fuel pump on? Could the pump be too high and not drawing any fuel from the tank? Without cranking the engine, just turn the key on 5 or 6 times. Does the pump come on and get fuel to the bowls of the fitech?
yea I have the 400 HP one I'm running a 255 from BBK fuel pump and maybe I didn't wire something correctly, no fuel the pump buzzes and it says 55 on the controller. but I look in the carb n it's dry. I have a dizzy from kmzperformance that has a module mounted to it it's a 2 wire dizzy black n red don't know it I gotta do it like you did n lock it out bad side I don't have the green and purple wire to the dizzy, but idk if that be any relation to me getting fuel to the block. I have the 14ga main wire (Red) to a switch then from switch to battery +.
and my dizzy has vacuumed advance on it too (btw).
VERY GOOD VIDEO MY BROTHER
I have found that adjusting the IAC to a high number like 140-160 steps on crank helps with cold start and warm start. It lets lots of air in to the engine. Because after all the throttle plates are only just open and the last thing you want to have to do is pump the gas pedal on an efi engine to get it to start!
+blairo15 haha! That’s a good point
That's a great idea......I'm trying it tomorrow.
...high steps means the IAC is almost 100% open and the throttle blades are only a sliver open. Doing this intentionally will result in lean transition issues off idle and limited ability for the IAC to respond if the engine receives a load at idle, such as the A/C compressor kicking on. I wouldn't recommend it for those reading.
Tim Rabideau there is an option CRANKING IAC where you set the number higher, only for cranking. Everything else after the cranking procedure will still follow the 3-10 steps.
I missed that he meant crank iac. My bad.
My Fitech 600hp seems to run pretty well, except for the my 2nd shift. I put it into reverse & back down my driveway and all is great, until I put it into drive, then there's a sputter & it dies,,,, it fires back up and is perfect for the rest of my drive. Only happens after it's sat for a day or more,,, so weird. But my biggest complaint about the system, is it just doesn't want to idle under 825 rpm(mild hyd roller cam, stroked 331 Ford, 350hp, built more for mileage/road tripping). Have been a wrench for 35+ years, and this motor should easily idle @ 700-750rpm. I would assume it's just a simple setting, but am new to efi tuning. Any help is appreciated!
I think it would be adjusting your IAC steps and the screw on the front of the fitech to get it dialed in for a lower rpm at idle
I adjusted everything you showed yesterday,,, along with the AFR targets 1-4 like Frank Brooks showed below, and it seems to run much better,,, a lot crisper than what it did. It will idle now @ 800 rpm & it doesn't smell rich idling anymore, which shouldn't hurt mileage any. My IAC jumps around a bit & once warmed up & idling, it was around 1-3 on average, so I did 2 or 3, one/half round sessions with the screw & it now reads approx. 3-8 on average. Thanks for your video,,, Very Helpful!
Awesome! Glad it helped
Hello my friend, how are you? I am from Brazil and would like to ask a question ... I installed FiTech in my Ford Maverick equipped with a SBF 302 with a Stroker 331 kit and I am having an annoying problem of solving during engine starting. He just does not turn on the first match. I have to turn the ignition key on and off 2 to 3 times before it works. Did you go through that? Would you help me? Thank you in advance !!
+Felipe Pessanha de Sá hey! I haven’t heard of that problem before. Have you checked to make sure you are getting 12 volts the first time you turn your key on? I would check for that and check your ignition switch. It could be going out
Great video bro! Self learning my ass. I just installed this in my 440- 68 charger and I’m not impressed yet. I’m taking it to the tuners at Wes tech performance to see if they can get him in order. Problems are: dying after cold starts, wants to die when I stop and smells like I still have a carb! 😭
+Thecrossforever oh man that sucks! I drove it about 200 miles and then it REALLY started adjusting on the fly. I had to figure out a couple adjustments to get it just right. I have another video about those.
I have had all the same issues. Mine worked pretty good right out of the box (69 mach 351W with 400hp top end kit) but it still smells like shit! burning super rich. I checked Pro Tune settings like Nash said and I'm in the bounds of everything he's said. I never had the issue of it wanting to die when I come to a stop, but out of nowhere it started doing it. I had to throw it in N and keep revving until the light turned green. Is this bad gas? I took it home, changed all the spark plugs and now it's not doing it anymore. It could've been bad gas? The plugs looked pretty normal. I just wish I could get it to stop running rich. I'll bump up the AFR and see how that works.
that's what is happening with mine too i smell fuel all the time ..