home made epoxy granite cnc - part 4 - x axis
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- Опубліковано 16 тра 2019
- This is the making of the X-axis, last big epoxy granite piece for my mill. It was by far the most complicated cast so far. I wasn’t exactly sure how it would come out.
Slowly it starts to look like a machine.
A little more details on this build in written form you'll find here: dangeroustools.com/category/cnc/
Part 1: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 2: • home made epoxy granit...
Part 3: • home made epoxy granit... - Наука та технологія
You hand filing the flat surfaces to be square reminds me of my training in the military to be a machinist. Early on in training, we had to produce dimensionally accurate parts with nothing but hand saws and files. Yes, you can get very accurate results with skill and the proper(and well taken care of) file. Some of the best machine surfaces are hand scraped. 👍
Great editing and detailed video of the build process, well done.
The project is coming together really nicely.
Thanks for following up on your project, without letting us hanging for months for the next video.
Great work, thanks for sharing the process.
How do you have so few subscribers you deserve so many more. Love your work it's amazing and your video editing and music choices spot-on. Thanks for the videos keep up the good work
Great little machine !
awesome progress.
Looks very nice! Surprisingly grear surface finish! Keep up that great work!
The surface finish is like that because of the gel coat
Ah okay. So probably that gel coat also is a kind of protective cover against coolants right?
The main reason I used it is to protect the release agent. I was afraid that the sand and gravel could scratch it away and it would all stick to the mold.
Cool work 👍
very good proyect...very work
This is gonna be 1 MILLION View video soon.
Great progress keep it up! That looked difficult to fill that center area under the plate!
Yes, wasn't too sure about that. And pretty happy when I opened the mold and saw that it worked out
@@joergbeigang think I'd have casted the plate "housing" with inserts, then bolted, glued and leveled with a thin layer of epoxy... Anyway, glad it worked 👍
У нас в Росси говорят- Руки и голова под нужным углом заточены. Молодец парень. Доволен просмотром.. Будут сл. видео- дай знать. Подписался.
Metrology, metrology, metrology...excellent!
Спасибо за Видео . Хорошая работа .
Very cool build. I’m thinking about building one. Maybe after I finish my ATC build on my current mill.
as always like befor watching !
Very nice build so far, lots of good ideas worth copying :D
btw. do you plan on machining all the guide mounting surfaces? They look pretty good, although there's still some light coming out under the straight edge. Also, how do you make sure the mounting plates of the guides and the ones for the ball screws are parallel to eachother?
With the first piece I went to the shop of a friend and milled it. Because his shop is six hours drive away and I don't want to steal too much of his time I did the other two pieces by hand. With a granite plate and sand paper. Was quite a bit of an exercise, but didn't came out any worse then the milled ones. I'll show a bit of it in the next vid.
And yes, feel free to copy :-)
This is a really cool build! Thanks for sharing it!
Odd question who makes that screwdriver with the female square drive for a ratchet? I've never seen one like it and want one desperately!
Thanks. It's made by proxxon.
yey! an update
Nice...
How is the x-axis squared to the y-axis? Are the two metal plates screwed together from the bottom through the gap where the ballscrew will be later? Or do you square it roughly and then align the x-rails using the play of the screws?
The rails are mounted first. With the rails is not much room for adjustment. The two plates are going to be screwed together with quite a few screws. The screws in the holes will have enough play to adjust the x axis perpendicular to the y axis. Making x and y parallel to each other will be a bigger problem. The perfect way would adjust it just by lapping one metal plate, but I'm afraid I got to do some shimming too.
You could probably adjust the angle of the z-axis to compensate for this. Then the x-axis and the y-axis dont have to be perfectly parallel
Hi take your time please, in our two guys view, we love machinery made by that of a single man, but we love it only if it improves the abilities of the machine.
Thank you see you in part 5.
Lance & Patrick
No worries, I'm not rushing at all. Took plenty of time to prepare the parts for both molds, x and z. Then casted them shortly one after the other.
My goal is to build a good machine I'm happy with and to learn a lot while doing it. That can't be done in a rush. But learning also results in doing tasks faster and better the second or third time.
Always happy to read your comments!
Damn the music slaps
Now i know, my next 3D printer will be based on granite epoxy structure ☺
Hardly practical.
@@hardcase1659 why not ?
@@dellosCao You don't really need that stiffness for 3D printing where there are no forces involved. You would just be wasting money tbh.
Do have an idea of how many hours you have into just this piece?
That's pretty hard to tell. Just the actual work might be about three to four hours for the metal parts, maybe one hour for the chip board cutting and drilling, an other hour for the reinforcement, two hours assembly of the mold, half an hour for the gel coat and a good hour for the actual casting.
But endless hours went into the planning and the cad. Those i can't count...
Hey man, great work. I saw a build which used 20% epoxy - is this a problem? He claimed shrinkage was minimal and I guess if you're using aluminium plates as your contact points you can machine these down later anyway.
On the first part I used 15 percent. Came out slightly bended. 3/10 mm on 450 mm length. On the other parts I used 12 percent and they came out pretty good. The base of the z axis didn't need any machining. Was done in one hour lapping by hand. It depends a lot on the sand gravel mixture, and the kind of epoxy. But 20 percent sounds a lot to me...
@@joergbeigang I see - 0.3MM is quite a lot over 450MM.. hmm. I saw this video which shows that 20% epoxy seems to offer more rigidity (ua-cam.com/video/bcEPoZTAlcA/v-deo.html). The other thing is just the surface finish is easier to get perfect with more epoxy judging by what I've seen. Is there a problem with machining the 0.3MM down afterwards or are parts under too much stress? Thanks
Can't tell about the stress, but I simply milled it flat. I made some tests before, from 10 to 17 percent. From 15 percent on there was quite a bit of a layer of resin on the top. I made more of less identical parts and I couldn't really measure any difference in stiffness with the strictly non scientific tests made.
In the end of the first vid of this series you can see the bended one under the straight edge.
@@joergbeigang Thank you! Look forward to seeing the rest of your build :)
How much epoxy in total did you use for this part? What are the dimensions? Looking to do something similar.
Actually I can't really remember anymore. Bought 3kg bottles. Not sure anymore if two or three. Got half a bottle left.
Gelcoat was one tin maybe half a kg and release agent one bottle which is still almost full.
Just go and buy a bottle of resin and do some test castings. After that you got a pretty good idea on the percentage of the resin in the mix and you can can easily calculate the total amount. Good luck with your build!
Name of the first two bg tracks?
the granite is mixed with epoxy resin and then you add a catalyst or it is different? I need to know how to make the mix , thanks
I mixed resin and hardener first, then I poured it in an empty bucket and mixed it there by putting step by step more sand gravel mix in.
All after extensive testing to find a good mix ratio
@@joergbeigang Thank you very much, I have my cnc machine and it is made of cast iron but it has very thin and hollow parts of the machine, it is where the vibration and resonance occurs, my intention is to fill with the granite epoxy, what I have doubt is if granite epoxy will adhere to the cast iron frame, very grateful for responder
There are some videos on UA-cam of guys who did exactly that. Maybe ask them if it's worth the effort in the end.
For example here:
ua-cam.com/video/k1r36ykaRLA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Upeu0kteUs0/v-deo.html
I'm sure if you start digging, there are plenty more
I would think a vibrator would be very helpful for mold fill.
Definitely. But luckily it worked without as well. With this part I was a bit concerned...
@@joergbeigang Yes. Looks like it worked either way. Coming along nice!
@@joergbeigang would definitely recommend it, if you don't vibrate the bubbles out you end up having a lot of porosity. Would suck to spend all the work on it and then have it break because of that. It can be as easy as pushing a delta grinder or similar against the mould.
how does it perform? is it done yet?
No, still a bit of work. Finished the steel frame where everything is sitting on. Now I'm taking my time for adjusting everything. I guess in about two weeks I'll have a new vid with the progress
Hi friend namesta 🙏
Friend this is not only a machine this your hardwork 💪, and your effort Idea i feel it 🤗 because I am also built my own lathe and milling machine project at my home but your the ocean in this project 🙏i am little drop to compare with you friend
Friend if you don't mine i want some help from you to built for my both lathe and milling machine project works please
I missed something... How did you fasten this to the Y axis bearing blocks? Also, is there any adjustability in case X/Y are out of square, or are they bang on? If so, how did you get them bang on? :D great vids by the way!
You're right, didn't really show this. The bearing blocks are mounted on a aluminum plate, that's attached with screws to the aluminum surface on the part I made in this vid.
Getting it square was a proper pain in the bum. Gave up at one point and started over again the next day. Just not something that's interesting in a video. Loosening and tightening screws and knocking with a hammer for hours...
Причём здесь гранит?
I think he love this girl photo
I love the whole reef calendar. Sadly my source for getting them dried out a few years back
And then you used epoxy that was not vacuumed first?....surely you watched the MANY UA-cam video where the strength and rigidity of epoxy that wasn't vacuumed was shown to be substantially less if pot mixed? ....That Fox guy showed that all this steel within epoxy was totally unnecessary and a massive waste of time when he achieved less than 5 micron accuracy using real granite slabs.
This is a well designed mill.... with the accuracy of used sock. Nothing on this is a precision parallel surface. It looks like it is. It appears to be so but it just isn't. There are 21 degrees of freedom to accuracy and this address maybe 3 and I think i am pushing it there as well. Still I commend you for having a go at this. Well done on attempting it.
I think he left enough possibilities for adjusting all the parts relative to eachother. My biggest concern is the planarity of the guide mounting surfaces tho.
Anyway, you don't know the application the creator of this video has in mind. No need to talk him down.
So much labor...
Terrible music, even worse at 2x speed